Thanks so much. This is a great video. I managed to figure out the horizontal adjustment but no idea on how to make the verticle adjustment with the shims. and no clue of how to measure the amount of the error. This was a great help to me in putting my South Bend 9 back together.
With the wear isn't it pointing down at an angle? Mine is also worn about .006 at the front but not the rear. Shouldn't I only shim the front to try and make it level and then align it? Thanks.
I have a south bend, and the 3 jaw chuck is stuck on the spindle, in the process of trying to remove it with out damaging the lathe. How would you align the tail stock with out center on the spindle end? My thought was to chuck a piece of round stock in, and turn it to a point and leave it in the chuck till the alignment is done.
Borne2fly that's exactly how to do it. Also if you're having so.e issues getting the Chuck off a good penetrating oil like Kroil is your best friend. There are also multiple threads on different techniques on the practical machinist forum.
I know my tailstock is out of alignment to begin with...if I make this bar in my 4 jaw chuck, then attempt to align/shim my tailstock the bootleg way by visually aligning two dead centers (one in headstock one in tailstock) I could then cut a small test section between the two "pseudo" aligned centers and use your indicator method there to get it dead on like you did? Do I have that right? Or would it be better to cut the small test section on steady rest and 4 jaw chuck to minimize TIR?
That clamp has two small machined surfaces on 2 opposite sides. Those machined surfaces sit on the inside corners of the bed rails. Just slide it in from the far end then snug the clamp bolt up untill those surfaces are touching the bed rails. The tailstock nut should only require about a turn to loosen the clamp enough to slide so it will always be in that spot. Loosen it up a lot and that clamp will drop too far and disengage from those two machined surfaces.
Going to the rear was the trick, thank you. But know I have another question, I need to oil compound slide but the tiny hole are full of dust and old gunked up oil. How should I clean them up so the oil is getting to where it needs to go?
I think it's gonna be a bit harder to align my tailstock vertically, the wear is uneven, the leading edge of the tailstock is worn significantly more than the rear of it, I think I'm going to have to use different thicknesses of shims to get it level, thicker in the front and thinner in the back
Take a peak at the video of making it. You'll do a preliminary alignment first. You can also measure in the exact same spot on the bar. That way you're comparing measurements to the same spot just one measurement on the tailstock and one on the headstock.
good video. I bought a lever turret tool for my SB 10K. It appears to be off a little when I put a center in the spindle. Any Ideas on how to adjust the turret tool for accuracy ?
My lathe is a 20" swing lathe , it is very worn but I can still machine about .001 press fit , My maximum speed is about 600 RPM , My question is how can I improve my tailstock it may be more than .062 lower than the head stock The quil or ram is loose in the bore in the tailstock , How could I bore it and put an oversize ram in it ?
I can't see how this method will work if you are using basic 60 degree center holes made by a drill bit. Both 60 mounts will be different and on top of that you are reversing the bar and placing the ends on the opposite centers on which the mandrel was turned. I'm not saying what you are doing is wrong however I'm wondering how you are eliminating that error. I liked what Tubalcain did which he bored both centers on a collet to get them parallel and uniform as possible.
Yes, another great idea using the tool holder to hold the indicator. I have an extra indicator and went immediately out the the lathe and used that idea to check the length of the shaft I was turning and it was spot on. I recently ordered some one inch stock 24 in long to use in my upcoming project. You struck terror in my heart when you mentioned the diameter of the south bend head stock is only 3/4. I had planned on putting the entire length through the head stock but I can see now that wont work, so I'll use the four jaw and tail stock. I don't have a steady rest, so I'll have to shorten the material. How long is that test bar in the video. Thanks again...Ken...yeah I'm still here but learning fast.
It's about 1 ft long. That length will be fine without a steady. You're not cutting only drilling so all the force is in toward the chuck not out flexing the workpiece. Indicate it true an inch or so from the check then move down to the end and see what you get there. Shouldn't be too much. Just run the lathe slow so you don't make any run out worse and drill. If you're off by a little it's ok because the center drill will want to walk towards the center and also you'll be turning a small section between centers so that collar will be concentric with the lathe axis even if the whole bar is a bit out.
That's normal. It should be a few thou high especially if the lathe is new. This is to allow for wear over time. If your lathe is older I'd suspect the tailstock is not original or is worn like a rocking chair pointing the nose up slightly when you lock it down.
Great video. I have a 9a I've been fussing with trying to get it right. This will help a lot. Thanks a million. You sound like you have a North Eastern accent, Maine?
What about cosine error? Do to the diameter of your work piece and the angle of the probe on your last word it cant be said for certain what your readings where. If you are 0.004 low than your indicator was sitting above the spot measured on the side of your bar at the spindle. With such a narrow diameter then your tailstock could have been shifted a few thou forward.
Would another viable way to check for this be to put a test indicator on the spindle face and sweep around the inside of the quill of the tailstock with a test indicator? How would you address a tailstock that is .010" higher than the headstock center?
Glad I found this , perfect timing ... just reassembled my South Bend, an excellent video ... well explained
Thanks so much. This is a great video. I managed to figure out the horizontal adjustment but no idea on how to make the verticle adjustment with the shims. and no clue of how to measure the amount of the error. This was a great help to me in putting my South Bend 9 back together.
Very helpful video. No more taper! Thanks!
I’d like to see how to make the test bar. Great video thanks
What is the maximum taper you can cut adjusting the tailstock before you would need to taper attachment…???
The most wear is on the front of the tailstock hence the front needs to be higher.
Thanks
Alec
How about marking the top of the alignment bar to eliminate error. Just a😮 thought. I like your idea, borong the center goles would be good also.
I would like to see you make a test bar for the lathe
With the wear isn't it pointing down at an angle? Mine is also worn about .006 at the front but not the rear. Shouldn't I only shim the front to try and make it level and then align it? Thanks.
Yes would like to see how to make the test bar,very good video, thank yoh
I have a south bend, and the 3 jaw chuck is stuck on the spindle, in the process of trying to remove it with out damaging the lathe. How would you align the tail stock with out center on the spindle end? My thought was to chuck a piece of round stock in, and turn it to a point and leave it in the chuck till the alignment is done.
Borne2fly
that's exactly how to do it. Also if you're having so.e issues getting the Chuck off a good penetrating oil like Kroil is your best friend. There are also multiple threads on different techniques on the practical machinist forum.
I know my tailstock is out of alignment to begin with...if I make this bar in my 4 jaw chuck, then attempt to align/shim my tailstock the bootleg way by visually aligning two dead centers (one in headstock one in tailstock) I could then cut a small test section between the two "pseudo" aligned centers and use your indicator method there to get it dead on like you did? Do I have that right? Or would it be better to cut the small test section on steady rest and 4 jaw chuck to minimize TIR?
At 13:33 how do you line up that to where it tightens up on rails or ways
That clamp has two small machined surfaces on 2 opposite sides. Those machined surfaces sit on the inside corners of the bed rails. Just slide it in from the far end then snug the clamp bolt up untill those surfaces are touching the bed rails. The tailstock nut should only require about a turn to loosen the clamp enough to slide so it will always be in that spot. Loosen it up a lot and that clamp will drop too far and disengage from those two machined surfaces.
Going to the rear was the trick, thank you. But know I have another question, I need to oil compound slide but the tiny hole are full of dust and old gunked up oil. How should I clean them up so the oil is getting to where it needs to go?
I think it's gonna be a bit harder to align my tailstock vertically, the wear is uneven, the leading edge of the tailstock is worn significantly more than the rear of it, I think I'm going to have to use different thicknesses of shims to get it level, thicker in the front and thinner in the back
Great video, clear instruction and all.
how do you make a test bar perfect? your tailstock has to be in perfect alighnment to start with or else its all for nothing it will be out of whach?
Take a peak at the video of making it. You'll do a preliminary alignment first. You can also measure in the exact same spot on the bar. That way you're comparing measurements to the same spot just one measurement on the tailstock and one on the headstock.
good video. I bought a lever turret tool for my SB 10K. It appears to be off a little when I put a center in the spindle. Any Ideas on how to adjust the turret tool for accuracy ?
I believe there are adjustment screws for this on the turret. There are on other brands, but I haven't seen SB one up close.
My lathe is a 20" swing lathe , it is very worn but I can still machine about .001 press fit , My maximum speed is about 600 RPM ,
My question is how can I improve my tailstock it may be more than .062 lower than the head stock The quil or ram is loose in the bore in the tailstock , How could I bore it and put an oversize ram in it ?
I can't see how this method will work if you are using basic 60 degree center holes made by a drill bit. Both 60 mounts will be different and on top of that you are reversing the bar and placing the ends on the opposite centers on which the mandrel was turned. I'm not saying what you are doing is wrong however I'm wondering how you are eliminating that error. I liked what Tubalcain did which he bored both centers on a collet to get them parallel and uniform as possible.
Did you glue those shims down?
I know that’s a stupid question but I just got my dads south bend and have no idea
Yes, another great idea using the tool holder to hold the indicator. I have an extra indicator and went immediately out the the lathe and used that idea to check the length of the shaft I was turning and it was spot on. I recently ordered some one inch stock 24 in long to use in my upcoming project. You struck terror in my heart when you mentioned the diameter of the south bend head stock is only 3/4. I had planned on putting the entire length through the head stock but I can see now that wont work, so I'll use the four jaw and tail stock. I don't have a steady rest, so I'll have to shorten the material. How long is that test bar in the video. Thanks again...Ken...yeah I'm still here but learning fast.
It's about 1 ft long. That length will be fine without a steady. You're not cutting only drilling so all the force is in toward the chuck not out flexing the workpiece. Indicate it true an inch or so from the check then move down to the end and see what you get there. Shouldn't be too much. Just run the lathe slow so you don't make any run out worse and drill. If you're off by a little it's ok because the center drill will want to walk towards the center and also you'll be turning a small section between centers so that collar will be concentric with the lathe axis even if the whole bar is a bit out.
Ok so I am aware how to align my tail stock. However my tailstock is higher than my headstock centre how do I rectify it please?
That's normal. It should be a few thou high especially if the lathe is new. This is to allow for wear over time. If your lathe is older I'd suspect the tailstock is not original or is worn like a rocking chair pointing the nose up slightly when you lock it down.
Thank you
As always, thanks’ for taking the time to make this video! And I support this site. ~M~
Hi where can I find a PDF for download for model A south bend
Great video. I have a 9a I've been fussing with trying to get it right. This will help a lot. Thanks a million. You sound like you have a North Eastern accent, Maine?
Boston :-)
Did you ever make the test bar video? I'd watch it.
Crivo152 Yup Find it Here: ua-cam.com/video/6Tkbt6VJpIM/v-deo.html
Muy bien explicado ! ... excelente video!
Fantastic instructional!
Thank you for a very clear informative video
What about cosine error? Do to the diameter of your work piece and the angle of the probe on your last word it cant be said for certain what your readings where. If you are 0.004 low than your indicator was sitting above the spot measured on the side of your bar at the spindle. With such a narrow diameter then your tailstock could have been shifted a few thou forward.
Thanks for posting this.
Good video. Simple method.
Make sure it is VFD
I need to do this to my old Sheldon lathe.
cool work dude.......
make a test bar
I'm sorry but this is not how u lign up a tail stock
Would another viable way to check for this be to put a test indicator on the spindle face and sweep around the inside of the quill of the tailstock with a test indicator?
How would you address a tailstock that is .010" higher than the headstock center?