When using the bandsaw stop to set the length of part to cut off, it looks like it would be a good idea to retract the stop after tightening the clamp on the part, so the cut part doesn't bind or get caught by the blade as the cut finishes. Similar to how it's generally not advisable to use tail support on the lathe when parting off.
Thank you very much for your kind comment! Happy to hear, you like my work. I really do appreciate that! I have some projects in the line. But everything takes so much time, it's hard to put out videos more often. I hope to finish another project soon.
That's really cool! And I've never heard of or seen that before, but it turned out really great!! I was surprised it didn't move at all holding it like that, great job!
Yes, I didn't feel comfortable while doing this. Took very light cuts, controlled the clamping every so often and was standing aside the potential fly zone :)
It would only happen once. This is when one stands clear of the path of the projectile. I had the unfortunate experience of breaking a 20”x4” wheel on a 30 horsepower surface grinder. BOOM!! This is a great video. A new word, and some other new ideas.
I made this shape in a college 3D design software class. I had no idea it had a name. It looks even cooler if you remove the central material in the same way. Plus, drilling out the material first gives you a surface to clamp with a 4-jaw to then cut the exterior form.
Very clever fixture for holding the part there. I would be terrified it leaps out and kills someone - like me. Superglue would be in use as well if I were involved in making it ...
Thank you for taking the time to demonstrate the approximate shape of this delightful solid. Do you know of a practical application for this particular shape.
Is it possible to let us know what metals you are using for the parts of your builds. It would help the beginners like me to learn to use the correct components when trying to copy what you make.
Hi, for high strenghts steel parts I use 42CrMo4 tool steel, for other steel parts mild steel or C45 steel. For aluminium parts I mainly use high strenghts 7075 aluminium which is a pretty tough sort of aluminium. It is ok to machine. I don't like the aluminium sorts with lead in it. 7075 has no lead in it. I hope that helps a little bit.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter thanks appreciate that I am just starting out in this game and find the amount of metals and what to use daunting. Any assistance is appreciated regards AG
Very cool piece, I like these unusual physics/mathmatical shapes, but a question, as you said it was not perfect so how would you take off that last thousandth, and how to work out which iteration it missed on? Thankyou for sharing
Thanks for your comment! Good question. The problem is, that for the last cut it is only possible to adjust the runout in one direction. The other direction is determined by the V-groove in the fixture. If this isn't accurate, the finished cube won't be accurate as well.
Hi and thanks for your comment! That is a pretty cool idea I think! It would be interesting if this would increase the accuracy. In any case this would prevent the part from flying around in the worst case scenario. Thanks for that hint!
It is a 100mm rotary table. Like this: www.hogetex.de/horizontal-vertikal-mini-rundteiltisch-100mm?gclid=Cj0KCQjwhfipBhCqARIsAH9msbk1TOJH9iEc_47cUFg2wJZIFtOSF_UFRAGrFyjLWSgWt1VSeDSdcpMaAv1HEALw_wcB
Hi. Nichts anderes erwartet. Deine Arbeiten sind wie immer sauber und präzise ausgeführt. Bravo. Sag mal, die ganzen Arbeiten aus Alu oder Messing, die sehen immer nur ein paar Tage schön aus. Danach oxidiert die obere Schicht und vorbei ist das mit dem Glanz. Meine Frage wäre, kennst du irgendwas, zum Beispiel Spray oder Lack der die obere Schicht versiegelt und der Glanz bleibt? Wenn du für mich ein Tipp hast, das wäre echt super von dir. Gibt es da was? Oder nicht? Danke für deine Video. Bleib gesund.
Hi und danke für die netten Worte! Es gibt einen sogenannten Zapon-Lack. Das ist ein farbloser Lack, der gerne bei Schmuck oder Goldschmieden etc. genommen wird, um Buntmetalle zu konservieren. Wenn er gut aufgetragen ist, sieht man es fast nicht und die Teile bleiben blank wie am ersten Tag.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Danke für den Tipp. Ich schaue im Internet nach. Vielleicht finde ich da so ein Lack. Nur wenn das die Juweliere benutzen, dann wird der bestimmt nicht billig sein. Mal schauen. Danke nochmals. Alles gute und bleib gesund. Nein, so teuer ist der Lack nicht. Habe gerade nachgeschaut. Also man kann das verkraften. 😂😂😂
@@werschkowdennis6533 Einfach mal googlen, diese Lacke sind nicht so teuer. Das lohnt sich schonmal, wenn du es öfter brauchst. Gibts auch aus der Sprühdose. Viel Erfolg :)
⚠Vos podrías romper la hoja de sierra de esa manera...lo correcto sería utilizar un suplemento en la mordaza de tope, de tal forma que, una vez sujeto el material a cortar, puedas retirar ese suplemento y listo. ⚠Otra cosa : siempre es mejor usar cianoacrilato para pegar las piezas "peligrosas" a los dispositivos o accesorios de apriete... nunca te confíes al 100% de las fuerzas de apriete o las fuerzas de rozamiento. Me gustan mucho tus videos, seguí así pero ojo 👁mucho cuidado con las máquinas-herramienta. Saludos desde Argentina (We can also read and speak English here in Argentine but the Spanish language already exist ... too many tourists lately that think we serve here speaking in the Shakespeare´s language instead of try to learn some Spanish first).
Thanks for your comment and feedback! That is true, there are easier ways to cut the groove. But I thought by rotating the parts in the rotary table, I get the most accurate concentricity of the grooves relative to the center of the part. This is critical for the accuracy of the Steinmetz solid. But as you see ofen with this method, there was a little bit of error.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter I think another way to make sure that the v grooves are perfectly symmetrical would be to mill a slot on the top side of the v groove for a machinist's level and to use it with the level when turning the rotary table to be 100% sure that both surfaces of the v block are exactly perpendicular to each other
@@WeCanDoThatBetter - I'll reserve judgement until I see if it takes nickel plating. Who wouldn't give a thumbs up to a nickel plated potato prototype? 😀
Oh come on..I used to regularly prototype long rectangular pieces of potato before dropping them in hot oil for a few minutes...the kids loved them😂😂🤣😂
More than a little concerned by work holding. People watching this may not consider the dangers. Im also a little sad this is titled "on a lathe" when you made custom fixtures on a mill. Otherwise, i appreciate the simplicity of this video and the relaxing machine sounds. Well presented. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much for your comment and feedback! You are right, it is not the safest way of holding a workpiece on a lathe. I should have stated this in the video more clearely.
Why's that? While it may not have much practical use it does provide good practice. And those little fixtures are the kind of thing worth keeping around.
WOW a great show piece and good practice! Thanks for posting and take care!
Thank you very much for your kind comment!
When using the bandsaw stop to set the length of part to cut off, it looks like it would be a good idea to retract the stop after tightening the clamp on the part, so the cut part doesn't bind or get caught by the blade as the cut finishes. Similar to how it's generally not advisable to use tail support on the lathe when parting off.
That's a good point, yes. I should try this next time.
thorough and perfect work, I really enjoy it. I always look forward to your videos, I hope you can make more videos more often~malaysia boy🇲🇾
Thank you very much for your kind comment! Happy to hear, you like my work. I really do appreciate that! I have some projects in the line. But everything takes so much time, it's hard to put out videos more often. I hope to finish another project soon.
That's really cool! And I've never heard of or seen that before, but it turned out really great!! I was surprised it didn't move at all holding it like that, great job!
Nice, but I would be worried about the part flying through the workshop.
Yes, I didn't feel comfortable while doing this. Took very light cuts, controlled the clamping every so often and was standing aside the potential fly zone :)
That clench factor was pretty high on this for me as well!!
It would only happen once. This is when one stands clear of the path of the projectile. I had the unfortunate experience of breaking a 20”x4” wheel on a 30 horsepower surface grinder. BOOM!! This is a great video. A new word, and some other new ideas.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter😂😂😂😂
Cool video, I had never heard of a Steinmetz solid. Loved the explanation with the Kartoffel 😉
;) Thank you very much! It was new to me too but I was instantly fascinated by it.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Something new is always fun to recreate. 😁
That looks very nice. Well done. 👍👍👍
Thank you!
I made this shape in a college 3D design software class. I had no idea it had a name. It looks even cooler if you remove the central material in the same way. Plus, drilling out the material first gives you a surface to clamp with a 4-jaw to then cut the exterior form.
Great idea..👍
Very clever fixture for holding the part there. I would be terrified it leaps out and kills someone - like me.
Superglue would be in use as well if I were involved in making it ...
Yes, a little bit of superglue would make the thing a little bit safer. But it felt relatively solid even without glue.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Well, it's your video (and a it's a good one), and I cannot argue with success. Thanks for the reply and the video. 🙂
Thank you for taking the time to demonstrate the approximate shape of this delightful solid. Do you know of a practical application for this particular shape.
Rollers for heavy items. You can change direction at 90° angles and move heavy items, with a strong smooth surface, around a bench or floor.
Yes, I can see the value in that. You may want to check out constant width polygons. -C
Awesome video, I'm going to try this
This is really cool! I want a lathe so I can make stuff like this.
Thanks! Go for it :)
Great work!!!
Thanks!
Wow! Thank You, so interesting!!!
Thank you very much for your comment!
It might be worth using cyano-acrylate glue to hold the work piece to the fixture to reduce the risk of it moving while being cut.
Yes, that would be an option.
Hi. What is the name of this tool with the collet chuck (ER 32) at 7'19'' please ? Good work !
Hi! It is called a rotary table.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter thank you
Great idea.Thank you.
Thanks!
Is it possible to let us know what metals you are using for the parts of your builds. It would help the beginners like me to learn to use the correct components when trying to copy what you make.
Hi, for high strenghts steel parts I use 42CrMo4 tool steel, for other steel parts mild steel or C45 steel. For aluminium parts I mainly use high strenghts 7075 aluminium which is a pretty tough sort of aluminium. It is ok to machine. I don't like the aluminium sorts with lead in it. 7075 has no lead in it. I hope that helps a little bit.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter thanks appreciate that I am just starting out in this game and find the amount of metals and what to use daunting. Any assistance is appreciated regards AG
Great video again! What make of lathe and mill are you using?
Isn't it annoying when interrupted cuts give you such a nice finish? 😄
With sharp inserts this aluminium is absolutely great to machine :)
Very cool piece, I like these unusual physics/mathmatical shapes, but a question, as you said it was not perfect so how would you take off that last thousandth, and how to work out which iteration it missed on?
Thankyou for sharing
Thanks for your comment! Good question. The problem is, that for the last cut it is only possible to adjust the runout in one direction. The other direction is determined by the V-groove in the fixture. If this isn't accurate, the finished cube won't be accurate as well.
when you were cutting the third intersection, if you phased the tail stock and chuck at 90° would that have theoretically self centered the part?
Hi and thanks for your comment! That is a pretty cool idea I think! It would be interesting if this would increase the accuracy. In any case this would prevent the part from flying around in the worst case scenario. Thanks for that hint!
I like the rotary table... would you please share price and where to buy?
It is a 100mm rotary table. Like this: www.hogetex.de/horizontal-vertikal-mini-rundteiltisch-100mm?gclid=Cj0KCQjwhfipBhCqARIsAH9msbk1TOJH9iEc_47cUFg2wJZIFtOSF_UFRAGrFyjLWSgWt1VSeDSdcpMaAv1HEALw_wcB
I like it! You could describe it as:
“Approximately a sphere”
Or
“The worst cube”
😂
It's something in between :)
Spherish, pronounced Schwerish in German of course 😊
nice work
Thank you :)
Very nicely done!
Is a Gömböc possible on a lathe too?
Thank you very much! I think a Gömböc is impossible to make with only a lathe. But perhaps someone correct me.
Hello, do you have the STL file for the comparator holder
Hi, I bought it on the used marked, didn't make it by myself. 3D printing isn't in my toolbox till now.
I was going to ask the same thing. If the stl file isn’t available, where did you get the holder?
Nice, but what use is it?
Just for fun. Feels cool in the hands and looks satisfying. Although I think no one has done this on a lathe before on youtube so I decided to share.
Hi. Nichts anderes erwartet. Deine Arbeiten sind wie immer sauber und präzise ausgeführt. Bravo.
Sag mal, die ganzen Arbeiten aus Alu oder Messing, die sehen immer nur ein paar Tage schön aus. Danach oxidiert die obere Schicht und vorbei ist das mit dem Glanz. Meine Frage wäre, kennst du irgendwas, zum Beispiel Spray oder Lack der die obere Schicht versiegelt und der Glanz bleibt? Wenn du für mich ein Tipp hast, das wäre echt super von dir.
Gibt es da was? Oder nicht?
Danke für deine Video.
Bleib gesund.
Hi und danke für die netten Worte! Es gibt einen sogenannten Zapon-Lack. Das ist ein farbloser Lack, der gerne bei Schmuck oder Goldschmieden etc. genommen wird, um Buntmetalle zu konservieren. Wenn er gut aufgetragen ist, sieht man es fast nicht und die Teile bleiben blank wie am ersten Tag.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Danke für den Tipp. Ich schaue im Internet nach. Vielleicht finde ich da so ein Lack. Nur wenn das die Juweliere benutzen, dann wird der bestimmt nicht billig sein. Mal schauen.
Danke nochmals.
Alles gute und bleib gesund.
Nein, so teuer ist der Lack nicht. Habe gerade nachgeschaut. Also man kann das verkraften. 😂😂😂
@@werschkowdennis6533 Einfach mal googlen, diese Lacke sind nicht so teuer. Das lohnt sich schonmal, wenn du es öfter brauchst. Gibts auch aus der Sprühdose. Viel Erfolg :)
Sieht Hammer aus!!!
Danke! :)
Just for hoots and giggles I modeled this in SolidWorks. Much easier to see than the spud, but if one does not have SW, a potato does work.
Yes, that makes it more clear. I actually did the same, modeled it in CAD before making it but I'm not good at it so I didn't bring it into the video.
no better German way to explain than with a potato !
Haha :D That's probably true ;)
What happen to Mr. Potato? Did he make it through the demonstration?
Haha :D He lost quite a bit of weight the last days ;) I'll take care of him:)
⚠Vos podrías romper la hoja de sierra de esa manera...lo correcto sería utilizar un suplemento en la mordaza de tope, de tal forma que, una vez sujeto el material a cortar, puedas retirar ese suplemento y listo.
⚠Otra cosa : siempre es mejor usar cianoacrilato para pegar las piezas "peligrosas" a los dispositivos o accesorios de apriete... nunca te confíes al 100% de las fuerzas de apriete o las fuerzas de rozamiento.
Me gustan mucho tus videos, seguí así pero ojo 👁mucho cuidado con las máquinas-herramienta. Saludos desde Argentina
(We can also read and speak English here in Argentine but the Spanish language already exist ... too many tourists lately that think we serve here speaking in the Shakespeare´s language instead of try to learn some Spanish first).
Next challenge: a *_Solid of constant width_* 😉
:D I have no idea how they were manufactured. I think it is way more complicated than this project.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter - they are made with Voodoo Magic 🤣
I wonder if there are plans for them somewhere? 🤔
What is ?
u didn't roll the final piece??????? damn....
There is an easier method to cut those V-groves with a collet block and a 45° angle block. The vise doesn't have to be removed and the head tilted.
Thanks for your comment and feedback! That is true, there are easier ways to cut the groove. But I thought by rotating the parts in the rotary table, I get the most accurate concentricity of the grooves relative to the center of the part. This is critical for the accuracy of the Steinmetz solid. But as you see ofen with this method, there was a little bit of error.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter I think another way to make sure that the v grooves are perfectly symmetrical would be to mill a slot on the top side of the v groove for a machinist's level and to use it with the level when turning the rotary table to be 100% sure that both surfaces of the v block are exactly perpendicular to each other
Отличный набалдашник для рукоятки
That's right, good idea!
spend more money, another shop tool mod vid:-) Need a fix, best mini channel.
Good job master! But I would like to hear your German accent :)
Haha, thanks! Next time ;)
It's in no way the opposite of a Newtonian fluid, though. 😁
I gotta say, I've never seen anyone prototype with a potato before.
Haha :D Is that a good or a bad thing? :)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter - I'll reserve judgement until I see if it takes nickel plating. Who wouldn't give a thumbs up to a nickel plated potato prototype? 😀
Oh come on..I used to regularly prototype long rectangular pieces of potato before dropping them in hot oil for a few minutes...the kids loved them😂😂🤣😂
👏👏👏👏👏
Thanks!
You could have made a fondant potato with the potato
👍👍😎👍👍
Knurl it, and make a gear knob
BG sagt nein 😆
Ja, das stimmt wohl :D Immer schön neben der Flugbahn stehen. Ganz wohl war mir aber auch nicht dabei... :)
More than a little concerned by work holding. People watching this may not consider the dangers. Im also a little sad this is titled "on a lathe" when you made custom fixtures on a mill. Otherwise, i appreciate the simplicity of this video and the relaxing machine sounds. Well presented. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much for your comment and feedback! You are right, it is not the safest way of holding a workpiece on a lathe. I should have stated this in the video more clearely.
naw thats just some home fries
very dangerous hold
Yes I agree, was a bit nervous while turning. But with light cuts and constantly controlling the clamping it was doable.
Us nerds know it as D12 🤣
but it rolls away :)
Waste of material
Why's that? While it may not have much practical use it does provide good practice. And those little fixtures are the kind of thing worth keeping around.
Ok...