@@Itr-tv7kt i have a b18c5 in my 92 eg hatch, just made 191whp on the dyno. doesnt sound like alot but its decent for all motor in a sub 2000 pound car.
Was this the car that eventually turned into the Kilo energy track car? Nice power for as simple as it was. I'm sure your much happier now with the higher compression and Skunk2 Pro2s tho!
Joe Doole Yes it is. It made the same 186 WHP as the original engine. I'm swapping the exhaust out to a 3" setup and going back to the dyno soon. We'll try a different air intake too. Johhny had to raise VTEC to 7K to keep the HP above the stock cams.
3" exhaust will help, but the best thing would be to raise static compression a bit. If you don't want to swap Pistons ou have a few less intrusive options. First, switching to a Mugen or other "high comp" head gasket or even removing the middle layer out of an OEM multi layer head gasket will raise a couple of tenths. Another option is to have a machine shop mill a few thou off your current head. This is usually inexpensive and simple enough and coupled with the head gasket can be worth a decent bump in compression. If you don't want to go that route, you could also swap your PR3 head casting for a P72. This along with a thinner head gasket can raise around a full point of compression and would really help those cams. If all of that seems too much, you may want to consider just going with a different cam. The Skunk2 Tuner 2's are more friendly with stock type compression and would work well for your setup. The other options I see working well are Toda B specs and Crower 402s. These offer good mid range power gains with even stock short blocks but also yield good top end power up to around 8800 RPM. With a decent header, 3" exhaust and a good tune, any of these cams would be able to reach the 195-200 wheel HP Mark with a stock Type R shortblock.
Forgot to mention one last thing; if you haven't you should also degree those Pro2's with a wheel and some adjustable cam gears. Running them at 0/0 very seldom produces good results and sometimes can cause P2V issues as well. I usually end up around +1/-2 (In/Ex) for a 1.8L mild build with those cams, but every setup is different. if you have any issues with the tune let me know (either here or I gave my email to the Fgarage guys) and I can email you a map file from one of the similar setups ive had success with. I sometimes use NepTune or AEM these days but majority of my tuning is still done with S300 and the Pro2 is a very popular cam so I have plenty of Hondata files for various B series using that cam profile. Best of luck!
Joe Doole Not sure. This B18C sat for years in a friends shop. Nobody really knows much about it. Dave pulled the pan and took a look, but all we know is it has cast postons. Look OEM to me. It's a '98 and up, so .5 more comp than the C5 right?
I understand this is an old video, but what was your exhaust setup? Does the STX class still require 2 1/4 inch exhaust for the power you were making. Is that right?
PLM Toda replica (great for power and weight savings, but they crack), PLM 200 cell cat (per class rules), Tanabe Concept G cat back (2.36” IIRC). No limits on exhaust sizing back then. Not sure now.
@@Z06phile Awesome, thanks for the reply! I have a b18c Type R CRX with a 2.36 ID exhaust from the header back, and I was hoping to do at least 180 with an internally stock engine and a good tune. As long as the powerband looks good, I don’t care as much about the peak number, but it just sounds nicer that way somehow 😂
Z06phile appreciate you responding quickly, just wondering I will be receiving a 97 spec r motor and i plan to do basic bolt ons. also which hondata system are you running s100 or s300?
I'm pretty sure that was the S300 which has some nice options, but is overkill for my application. The tuner just wanted to see what gains could be made. I'm still on the stock ECU, but I'm going back to get it tuned with a VAFC2 soon. One of the classes I run in doesn't allow me to switch to OBD1.
Did u get any noticeable gains from tuning A/F ratios with the VAFC2 and stock ecu? im also running an ice box, toda rep, highflow cat with HKS catback on a 96 JDM ITR. I was wanting s300 but not sure if its really worth it for my application
+Eric List Yes nice bump at the crossover and about 5 up top and at no point did the curve drop below the stock ECU. Check my thread out for dyno comparison- forums.itrexpo.com/zerothread?id=15316
195hp from the crank brand new, throw 30k miles on that same engine its gonna make slightly less. 181 with some simple bolt ons is respectible. i have a b18c5 block with a gsr p72 head and type r cams, springs and retainers, intake manifold, throttlebody, fuel rail adjustable cam gears etc etc and i just made 191whp on the dyno myself. these cars do quite well from little mods and a decent tuner. Throw a fuel pump and injectors in there and youll be over 200whp in no time. but im also obd1, so i dont need hondata and all that, im tuned on crome.
ahh the good old times when we thought hitting 200whp was the greatest thing lol.
jeff yoon Yep. Still plenty of fun and competitive for TTD though.
Yeah I've got one myself. A 2001 cw itr. 192 on mustang dyno. Seems like comparing peanuts haha.
Im good with that number, rather be there then broken and broke 1/2 the time
@@Itr-tv7kt i have a b18c5 in my 92 eg hatch, just made 191whp on the dyno. doesnt sound like alot but its decent for all motor in a sub 2000 pound car.
It still is
Still a classic car I wish I kept mine from back in the day.
Awesome video !! What’s the duty cycle with stock injectors with bolt ons ?
Was this the car that eventually turned into the Kilo energy track car? Nice power for as simple as it was. I'm sure your much happier now with the higher compression and Skunk2 Pro2s tho!
Joe Doole Yes it is. It made the same 186 WHP as the original engine. I'm swapping the exhaust out to a 3" setup and going back to the dyno soon. We'll try a different air intake too. Johhny had to raise VTEC to 7K to keep the HP above the stock cams.
3" exhaust will help, but the best thing would be to raise static compression a bit. If you don't want to swap Pistons ou have a few less intrusive options. First, switching to a Mugen or other "high comp" head gasket or even removing the middle layer out of an OEM multi layer head gasket will raise a couple of tenths. Another option is to have a machine shop mill a few thou off your current head. This is usually inexpensive and simple enough and coupled with the head gasket can be worth a decent bump in compression. If you don't want to go that route, you could also swap your PR3 head casting for a P72. This along with a thinner head gasket can raise around a full point of compression and would really help those cams. If all of that seems too much, you may want to consider just going with a different cam. The Skunk2 Tuner 2's are more friendly with stock type compression and would work well for your setup. The other options I see working well are Toda B specs and Crower 402s. These offer good mid range power gains with even stock short blocks but also yield good top end power up to around 8800 RPM. With a decent header, 3" exhaust and a good tune, any of these cams would be able to reach the 195-200 wheel HP Mark with a stock Type R shortblock.
Forgot to mention one last thing; if you haven't you should also degree those Pro2's with a wheel and some adjustable cam gears. Running them at 0/0 very seldom produces good results and sometimes can cause P2V issues as well. I usually end up around +1/-2 (In/Ex) for a 1.8L mild build with those cams, but every setup is different. if you have any issues with the tune let me know (either here or I gave my email to the Fgarage guys) and I can email you a map file from one of the similar setups ive had success with. I sometimes use NepTune or AEM these days but majority of my tuning is still done with S300 and the Pro2 is a very popular cam so I have plenty of Hondata files for various B series using that cam profile. Best of luck!
Joe Doole Not sure. This B18C sat for years in a friends shop. Nobody really knows much about it. Dave pulled the pan and took a look, but all we know is it has cast postons. Look OEM to me. It's a '98 and up, so .5 more comp than the C5 right?
Joe Doole It has aftermarket springs, retainers and AEM adj gears. We left all of that alone.
I understand this is an old video, but what was your exhaust setup? Does the STX class still require 2 1/4 inch exhaust for the power you were making. Is that right?
PLM Toda replica (great for power and weight savings, but they crack), PLM 200 cell cat (per class rules), Tanabe Concept G cat back (2.36” IIRC). No limits on exhaust sizing back then. Not sure now.
@@Z06phile Awesome, thanks for the reply! I have a b18c Type R CRX with a 2.36 ID exhaust from the header back, and I was hoping to do at least 180 with an internally stock engine and a good tune. As long as the powerband looks good, I don’t care as much about the peak number, but it just sounds nicer that way somehow 😂
@@BillyBob-rr8se YW. Glad I can help.
Did you have the Skunk2 Pro 2 Cams installed during these runs?
Allen Sales No
If u don't mind me asking that was a stock ecu?
Jazmin Nieto All pulls except the last one were with the stock ECU.
what were the bolt ons?
Icebox, Uni filter, PLM Toda replica header, PLM 200 cell cat, Tanabe Concept g cat back.
Z06phile appreciate you responding quickly, just wondering I will be receiving a 97 spec r motor and i plan to do basic bolt ons. also which hondata system are you running s100 or s300?
I'm pretty sure that was the S300 which has some nice options, but is overkill for my application. The tuner just wanted to see what gains could be made. I'm still on the stock ECU, but I'm going back to get it tuned with a VAFC2 soon. One of the classes I run in doesn't allow me to switch to OBD1.
Did u get any noticeable gains from tuning A/F ratios with the VAFC2 and stock ecu? im also running an ice box, toda rep, highflow cat with HKS catback on a 96 JDM ITR. I was wanting s300 but not sure if its really worth it for my application
+Eric List Yes nice bump at the crossover and about 5 up top and at no point did the curve drop below the stock ECU. Check my thread out for dyno comparison-
forums.itrexpo.com/zerothread?id=15316
HI how much mpg that car does on city if u dont mind to ask?
bloody A2H High 20's low 30's driven reasonably. I saw 37 out of a tank once on the highway no AC on.
high 20´s and low 30s on city? if its true u have a healthy engine gratz
bloody A2H I did. I killed the engine with a 3-2 shift at a TT event in November. New engine is going in now.
feels bad man i hope to see new project already subbed
last question bro, what did brake on ur engine? head or block?
200 engine hors power, 181 wheels hors power?!
Геннадий Андреев 181 at the wheels
Good
They come stock with 195hp what happened? ? ? Why did it lose hp? ?
B series only Hondas/Integras the factory rating is at the crank. This dyno is at the wheels.
195hp from the crank brand new, throw 30k miles on that same engine its gonna make slightly less. 181 with some simple bolt ons is respectible. i have a b18c5 block with a gsr p72 head and type r cams, springs and retainers, intake manifold, throttlebody, fuel rail adjustable cam gears etc etc and i just made 191whp on the dyno myself. these cars do quite well from little mods and a decent tuner. Throw a fuel pump and injectors in there and youll be over 200whp in no time. but im also obd1, so i dont need hondata and all that, im tuned on crome.
Hey, shoot me a text. I have the same number but a different phone. I couldn't get all of my numbers to transfer.