Was fighting the rod today on my 74 monte carlo i couldnt get rod fo stay in place an the rod was to far down for me to get the bolts in now i felt like rookie mistakes but man today has been a day thanks for the video🎉
I'm 64 also have worked on old cars and trucks most of my life I like you have fought this rod to long before watching this video in a couple of minutes he had my problem solved he is quick and to the point unlike other people's videos.Good job.
This whole time I was just using a stick to keep the rod upright, then I would very quickly move the pump in.....this video helped. I didn't even think about using that' bolt. I'm going to remount the pump today on my 350 small block.
Fffff i just did this job on my 1979 z28 and it took me 4 hrs its a lil harder when you dont have much space but thanks to your video i was able to replace my fuel pump third tried cranking it n it turned on one thing less to worry about thanks man!!
I actually knew this trick but thought I missed something when I tried a bolt from a puller kit (not enough threads). I am working on the same exact truck but it has a 307 and they apparently came with a 1/4" outlet with the 3 pumps I had here all being 3/8". I can probably find another bolt, but that trick of using a mounting bolt in a pinch is a great tip. The juggling with the heater hoses, ground wire and brackets makes me want to run to the hardware store. Great video. Another tip for someone just doing a replacement due to failure is have a set of angled pick tools to weasel around the rod and get it up into place with the plate on.
@@sbcbuilds5517 Big thank you. Got that truck done in the yard during a snow storm because I had a Camaro in the garage and it runs a lot better. I ended up running new 3/8" lines. It still has that beautiful low compression cranking noise but fires up so much faster. Good looking out.
Excellent tip. I remember that push rod being a major pain when I replaced the fuel pump on my 348 10-15 years ago. Well, it's time to replace it again. I'm definitely doing this hack this time!
I have an 86 K10 But I can't get the pump lever all the way in and fully under the rod. The rod won't raise any higher so trying to figure something else out
Very nicely explained video. Getting ready to change my fuel pump on a 1982 Chevy K30 pickup. I’ve watched a couple videos before this one. This is the best by far!
All right I'm going to try this tomorrow on my 71 K5 for the first time ever. Wish me luck. Was going to go with the electric fuel pump but the fuel pump has lasted a very long time. The spring broke off the rivet so now it doesn't do anything. New one going in tomorrow. Awesome video brother, thank you so much for the help
THAT ROD IS THE EXACT ISSUE IM HAVING WOTH MY ENGINE. I didn’t know that. Thank you so much for showing that. I’ve been fighting it for a while now to the point of almost giving up and that was the issue all along. But my fuel pump doesn’t have that bracket that goes in between the fuel pump and block though. I don’t know why it didn’t have one
When installing the fuel pump with the fuel pump rod completely up the fuel pump should sit flush against the block when tightening the bolts it shouldn't have any tension.
I never knew about that bolt. I was taught to put some heavy grease on the rod to hold it up, which works so long as the motor is cold. The bolt thing makes much more sense so long as you don't crank the bolt down and damage the push rod.
I put all 4 bolts in and let it dry 24 hours then remove the top 2 and install the pump. This holds the plate in place if you tighten the bottom bolts without tightening the top you will have a gap.
Cool thanks man I have an 84 cutlass supreme with a chevy small block and my fuel pump is throwing fuel out killing my mileage. I have never changed a fuel pump outside the tank. Thanks man
I am really happy I found your video. You did a fantastic job explaining everything and the close up pictures were excellent too. You went straight to the point! Thank you!
me too don't feel bad I'm glad I didn't turn my truck upside-down to put the pump on it was starting to look like theonly way to keep the rod up me too don't feel bad I'm glad I didn't turn my truck upside-down to put the pump on it was starting to look like theonly way to keep the rod up
I usually slide pushrod up slide a hacksaw blade down between the pushrod & fuel pump arm. Once you get the pump mounted close to the engine block, pull out the hacksaw blade & install the 2 fuel pump mounting bolts. Trust me it works. 👍
🟥 1) put motor oil on the rod before install 2) put a dab of grease on both ends of the rod 3) use copper coat spray on gaskets instead of silicone. (You don't want that shit to find it's way into an oil galley) Been building these things since the 60s. Never a problem. Then again, everybody does things differently.
Just spray the gaskets and stick them on? I failed miserabely today using silicone. It made a huge mess I didnt feel comfortable so i took it all apart and cleaned it. Ruined both my gaskets in the process.
@jeffmarcum3643 I take a cardboard box, put a hole in the top,drop a wire down the hole,put my gasket on the end of the wire,spray both sides of the gasket with the copper coat spray. When it tacks up, stick it to where you want and assemble. Easy peasy...Done
Chris ,Excellent tutorial !Spot-on reassembly sequence. Great results on my 65 c20.Please post vid of your awesome clean rebuild so we can hear that engine running ! Thanks , Jonny
Ha! Check out some of my newer videos there are some nice shots of how it’s coming along How to Replace Your Carriage Bearings ua-cam.com/video/sf-c0srktDo/v-deo.html and CUSTOM Cup Holder ua-cam.com/video/Fz5dQLHam3c/v-deo.html
Thanks for the video. On my block the threaded hole on the side is not a through hole, so it can't be used to hold the pumping rod. Oh well- the assembly grease should hold it.
Great Video...No, I'm gonna make everyone in the world think I'm hysterically funny B.S.!! Thank you for that. I 'm doing my 80 corvette pump right now and had no Idea how to hold the rod in place...Many Thanks!
FUNNY STORY: I rebuilt my 350 SBC back in 1998 for my 1978 Trans Am, using Edelbrock cam, carb, intake, etc and full machining. I've put 25000 miles on it in the 24 years since as a summer hot rod. Also got married and had a couple kids. So now the fuel pump started leaking and I watched your video. I find that I am missing that bolt that locks the push rod in place. I must never installed it since there is orange paint in the threads. Now I know where the oil has been leaking from all these years!! LOL. Now I'm wondering about that lower bolt hole, about 1.5" below. I can shove a wire in there well over 1". And there is roasted oil all around that hole. It may be from the upper hole, but I'm wondering what that lower hole is for. I noticed your lower hole doesn't have a bolt in it. Can you advise what that lower hole is for? I'm thinking to put a short bolt in both of them just to be on the safe side. Great video by the way!
ha, ironic I have the same hat and about to install a new pump on my camaro. The black looks really clean, debating on that or the typical chrome look. Nice vide bud, short and to the point.
Is it possible that the camshaft will be stuck in the fuel pump rods furthest outward position? I can't get the pin to push upwards into the hole, do I need to manually turn the engine over a bit to cycle the pin inward?
I've made a big mistake not pushing the rod and installing that fuel pump now that rod it's stucked , didn't put my ingine on top death center I broke the fuel pump also ,, any advise to get that rod out? ☹️
It will run, but your going to leak some oil, that goes directly to fuel pump shaft that is lubricated by oil pumping in engine. It’s a super common size just find a new 3/8 - 16 thread and about 1/2 inch long.
Hell yeah thanks for the info! Great video and very informative. Not overwhelming and just enough to get us by. Glad to see some updated videos that aren’t 480p and 7+ years old 😅
I have an 88 Cheyenne. The previous owner put a 4 barrel carb on it instead of the fuel injection. He ran the fuel line from the tank to the mechanical pump on the older used engine that he installed. The electric pump pushes fuel to the mechanical pump on the side of the block. My question is; is this ok to do or will it cause problems?
Any reason for utilizing a silicone sealant as opposed to say a gasket dressing such as Hylomar? Just curious as I am fixing to do this job soon. Thanks for the video!
Im missing the original bolt for the hole you put the longer bolt in to hold the pushrod up. Any chance you know what size bolt should be there to begin with? Found out thats where my oil leak is from
Hey man I’m replacing mine right now but cannot find info on whether or not the push rod needs to be oriented a certain way. One side of the rod is smoother / shinier than the other side. Which side is the cam side ? Thanks in advance.
@@ChrisNCars Awesome thanks. I got new one working it seems so far..it wasnt pumping fuel to filter at first so i just squeezed the hose and that seemed to do the trick to get the pump going.
Odd... my 327 in my 67 impala does not have the holes for the bolts. Its just flat. Makes me wonder if the previous owner did something to it, or if this year production did something different.
@@ChrisNCars That was my first thought, but I checked the casting number. It is dated for this car, made in 67... definitely in a time of mechanical fuel pumps. Never been so confused. I'm currently working on it, wondering how the previous own put on the mech fuel pump that's on it.
I’m currently replacing the mechanical fuel pump on my 76’ Chevy. The push rod is stuck. I’ve greased it up, tried to use pliers to pull it up, removed the bolt that holds it and tried to manually crank the engine. Still nothing. Any ideas?
Yeah 1/2 will work. His has 11 threads on it so it's assumed to be 11/16" or 0.6875" long. I have a 3/4 which is the smallest lowes sells. So either I'm grinding it down to half or placing washers in between. I believe the 3/4" length will be fine but I haven't seen anyone mentioned the length and I've already installed a new pump and don't want to remove and see if it interferes with the push rod.
Hey man I got a 93 chevy tbi 350 what’s should I do to cut off the electrical fuel pump to install the mechanical pump so I can skip buying the regulator?
Working on a 83 Firebird, teaching myself. She's still having fuel problems, when I installed a new pump I pushed the rod up by hand, never took off that plate. How likely is it I goofed something?
You shouldn’t need to take the plate off but you need to hold that rod up while putting in pump. You can’t really do that by hand that’s why I use the bolt. The other was is use a saw blade or bendable piece of metal.
@@Avengel-hl5kg I’m not sure how she could hold the rod while you got fuel pump in, it’s a really narrow gap. Could be a lot though kink in tub, old junk in tank plugging something, fuel filter, etc.
Just found your channel and will be subscribing. Was looking because my son's Nova suddenly had fuel leaking and found that the bolt that you put in to hold the rod is missing. You explained everything well. What size did you say the bolt was?
@@ChrisNCars I found out my car had this problem and it fouled up my plugs. Got new plugs in, swapped the oil out and my car ran smooth for a day. Shortly after that it feels rough again and my oil reeked of gas. Had a compression check done and it was normal so it's not a piston seal or something.
@@ChrisNCars Just looked at it again The guy I bought it from must have done this but he put thick black Wire we’re that bolt went I’ve never seen that before and the lower bolt under that has no Bolt any ideas?
Damn I wish I had watched this great video BEFORE I removed my old fuel pump!!! Fuel pump rod fell and I can't get it pushed back up in the block. Any advice on this will be greatly appreciated 👍
I have a 71 K5 Blazer. All of a sudden it won't run unless I put gas in the carburetor. Runs for a minute. How do I know if it's the carburetor or the fuel pump? And help with greatly be appreciated.
If you look into the carb, while running you should see fuel shooting out of jets when you hit the throttle. If you don’t it’s probably the pump. Could be a lot though, clogged jets, fuel line or filter. If it idles rough or dies when you give it gas, probably a vacuum leak.
@@ChrisNCars yeah I did that, no fuel at all. It won't even start without putting a little gas in the carb. I've been having carburetor issues though too. That's why I was asking. Baby was a fuel pump getting weaker and weaker all this time?
![Cleaver Restoration [Black Cleaver With Ebony Handle]](/img/n.gif)
Thanks bud awesome vid !! Really helpful !
I am 60, worked on SBC my whole young life and have fought and fought the rod and now I know. Thanks!
Was fighting the rod today on my 74 monte carlo i couldnt get rod fo stay in place an the rod was to far down for me to get the bolts in now i felt like rookie mistakes but man today has been a day thanks for the video🎉
How could i remove the fuel pump Dummy plate on my 5.7l tbi ?
I'm 64 also have worked on old cars and trucks most of my life I like you have fought this rod to long before watching this video in a couple of minutes he had my problem solved he is quick and to the point unlike other people's videos.Good job.
Watched a dozen videos on this. Your the first one I truly understood what needs to happen. Thanks
This whole time I was just using a stick to keep the rod upright, then I would very quickly move the pump in.....this video helped. I didn't even think about using that' bolt. I'm going to remount the pump today on my 350 small block.
Fffff i just did this job on my 1979 z28 and it took me 4 hrs its a lil harder when you dont have much space but thanks to your video i was able to replace my fuel pump third tried cranking it n it turned on one thing less to worry about thanks man!!
I actually knew this trick but thought I missed something when I tried a bolt from a puller kit (not enough threads). I am working on the same exact truck but it has a 307 and they apparently came with a 1/4" outlet with the 3 pumps I had here all being 3/8". I can probably find another bolt, but that trick of using a mounting bolt in a pinch is a great tip. The juggling with the heater hoses, ground wire and brackets makes me want to run to the hardware store. Great video. Another tip for someone just doing a replacement due to failure is have a set of angled pick tools to weasel around the rod and get it up into place with the plate on.
If you are still looking by any chance, summit has what you are looking for. I can give you part numbers if needed.
@@sbcbuilds5517 Big thank you. Got that truck done in the yard during a snow storm because I had a Camaro in the garage and it runs a lot better. I ended up running new 3/8" lines. It still has that beautiful low compression cranking noise but fires up so much faster. Good looking out.
Excellent tip. I remember that push rod being a major pain when I replaced the fuel pump on my 348 10-15 years ago. Well, it's time to replace it again. I'm definitely doing this hack this time!
Just replaced Mine on a rebuilt 87 k10 and just winged it. came to a video to make sure it was done right and now my truck runs again.
I have an 86 K10
But I can't get the pump lever all the way in and fully under the rod.
The rod won't raise any higher so trying to figure something else out
Very nicely explained video. Getting ready to change my fuel pump on a 1982 Chevy K30 pickup. I’ve watched a couple videos before this one. This is the best by far!
thanks you answered my question quickly been trying for an hour to find a way to hold the rod up without turning my truck upside down great video .
Finally a straight forward video that makes it simple to understand! Going out to replace my fuel pump now.
Glad it helps!
Did you get it installed? This guy makes it look pretty easy
Way better video than most of the ones I’ve seen thank you !!
Appreciate it!
All right I'm going to try this tomorrow on my 71 K5 for the first time ever. Wish me luck. Was going to go with the electric fuel pump but the fuel pump has lasted a very long time. The spring broke off the rivet so now it doesn't do anything. New one going in tomorrow. Awesome video brother, thank you so much for the help
THAT ROD IS THE EXACT ISSUE IM HAVING WOTH MY ENGINE. I didn’t know that. Thank you so much for showing that. I’ve been fighting it for a while now to the point of almost giving up and that was the issue all along. But my fuel pump doesn’t have that bracket that goes in between the fuel pump and block though. I don’t know why it didn’t have one
Is there 4 bolt holes like a bracket should go there?
@@ChrisNCars I don’t remember. I’d have to look at it again. The motor is either a 305 or a 307 but I can’t remember
@@ChrisNCars yes. But I’m having trouble getting the roller to come back up so I can get it out, any tips?
@@ChrisNCars I got it put. My bracket was their it just seemed a little smaller throwing me off. It also bender in a bit
When installing the fuel pump with the fuel pump rod completely up the fuel pump should sit flush against the block when tightening the bolts it shouldn't have any tension.
I never knew about that bolt. I was taught to put some heavy grease on the rod to hold it up, which works so long as the motor is cold. The bolt thing makes much more sense so long as you don't crank the bolt down and damage the push rod.
Yeah that’s why I swap the bolts around!
Mine doesn’t have a bolt
This was a great help changing the mechanical fuel pump in my boat. 350 5.7. The mounting nut to hold rod back worked like a charm. Thanks.
Glad to help!
Yours is by far the best video on this subject that I have seen. Thanks!
I put all 4 bolts in and let it dry 24 hours then remove the top 2 and install the pump. This holds the plate in place if you tighten the bottom bolts without tightening the top you will have a gap.
Cool thanks man I have an 84 cutlass supreme with a chevy small block and my fuel pump is throwing fuel out killing my mileage. I have never changed a fuel pump outside the tank. Thanks man
I am really happy I found your video.
You did a fantastic job explaining everything and the close up pictures were excellent too.
You went straight to the point!
Thank you!
that rod gave me absolute hell the last two hours and i had no idea i could do that 😂
Ha! yeah, the little tricks is what its about!
@@ChrisNCars Your a life saver man🙏
me too don't feel bad I'm glad I didn't turn my truck upside-down to put the pump on it was starting to look like theonly way to keep the rod up
me too don't feel bad I'm glad I didn't turn my truck upside-down to put the pump on it was starting to look like theonly way to keep the rod up
I usually slide pushrod up slide a hacksaw blade down between the pushrod & fuel pump arm. Once you get the pump mounted close to the engine block, pull out the hacksaw blade & install the 2 fuel pump mounting bolts. Trust me it works. 👍
Yup that works too!
Thanks Brotha, getting a little older and like to double check on things I haven't done in a couple decades, lol.
Ha! Glad it helped
Great video but I think you used a bit too much silicone. Aside from that man this was much much easier than the other videos. Straight to the point.
Well done. I'll be putting mine on in the morning. Thank you.
🟥 1) put motor oil on the rod before install
2) put a dab of grease on both ends of the rod
3) use copper coat spray on gaskets instead of silicone.
(You don't want that shit to find it's way into an oil galley)
Been building these things since the 60s. Never a problem.
Then again, everybody does things differently.
Just spray the gaskets and stick them on? I failed miserabely today using silicone. It made a huge mess I didnt feel comfortable so i took it all apart and cleaned it. Ruined both my gaskets in the process.
I'm curious about this too - can you elaborate on the copper coat spray and how to apply?
@jeffmarcum3643 I take a cardboard box, put a hole in the top,drop a wire down the hole,put my gasket on the end of the wire,spray both sides of the gasket with the copper coat spray. When it tacks up, stick it to where you want and assemble. Easy peasy...Done
@@paulricelli5520 What about the actual fuel pump once its ready to go on? How do you spray that without spraying the inside?
@lloydchristmas1086 spray both sides of the gasket ONLY. When it gets tacky...do your assembly
Thank you sir..short and to the point! Good job!
Chris ,Excellent tutorial !Spot-on reassembly sequence. Great results on my 65 c20.Please post vid of your awesome clean rebuild so we can hear that engine running ! Thanks , Jonny
Ha! Check out some of my newer videos there are some nice shots of how it’s coming along How to Replace Your Carriage Bearings
ua-cam.com/video/sf-c0srktDo/v-deo.html and CUSTOM Cup Holder
ua-cam.com/video/Fz5dQLHam3c/v-deo.html
65 C20? I'm jealous...
Very helpful! Used this for a 305.
Do all fuel pumps need that bracket? I have a 1981 silverado with a small block and mine doesnt have a bracket.
Thanks for the video. On my block the threaded hole on the side is not a through hole, so it can't be used to hold the pumping rod. Oh well- the assembly grease should hold it.
I had one that wasn't threaded all the way, just took a tap and finished the job. We had a zz4 crate eng. Hole was not drilled in it.
Thanks buddy. That's a great looking truck. I have a 66 Chevelle and I can't seem to get fuel to the carb. I hope this works.
thanks for the video. im about to do this to my 1980 heavy half!
Great video only thing I would have done differently is I would have greased up the fuel pump plunger arm and pivot rod.
Nice add!
Is there a specific kind of grease one should use? I got some for lubing the car. Would that work?
@@thejubieexperience probably motor assembly grease.
@@ChrisNCars Thanks! Very helpful
@@thejubieexperience van use marine grease, it's green colour
Great Video...No, I'm gonna make everyone in the world think I'm hysterically funny B.S.!! Thank you for that. I 'm doing my 80 corvette pump right now and had no Idea how to hold the rod in place...Many Thanks!
Nice! Glad it helped
If you put the engine on top dead center the rod goes all the way up and you don’t have to fight putting the bolts in ! 😉
Yeah I mentioned that in the video, but didn’t want to explain putting an engine to top dead center in this video.
This video made me realize I was missing the push rod bolt entirely on my 305 lol It was just an open hole
Thanks for simplifying this process 🙌🙌
FUNNY STORY: I rebuilt my 350 SBC back in 1998 for my 1978 Trans Am, using Edelbrock cam, carb, intake, etc and full machining. I've put 25000 miles on it in the 24 years since as a summer hot rod. Also got married and had a couple kids. So now the fuel pump started leaking and I watched your video. I find that I am missing that bolt that locks the push rod in place. I must never installed it since there is orange paint in the threads. Now I know where the oil has been leaking from all these years!! LOL. Now I'm wondering about that lower bolt hole, about 1.5" below. I can shove a wire in there well over 1". And there is roasted oil all around that hole. It may be from the upper hole, but I'm wondering what that lower hole is for. I noticed your lower hole doesn't have a bolt in it. Can you advise what that lower hole is for? I'm thinking to put a short bolt in both of them just to be on the safe side. Great video by the way!
This video helps a lot thanks for creating it.
Appreciate it! Glad it helped.
wicked video... well gone.. explained... you've helped a lot of people out...
If you put the engine on top dead center you don’t have to fight the bolts on the fuel pump 😉
Thank you sir!!! Nice and simple!!! BIG help 👍
Took 4 hours to replace in a 70' C10. I didn't know about the bolt that holds the pushrod, I greased to hold it in place. Heard that somewhere.
ha, ironic I have the same hat and about to install a new pump on my camaro. The black looks really clean, debating on that or the typical chrome look. Nice vide bud, short and to the point.
Thanks, extra clean touch with a rattle can 😜
Thanks! My fuel pump is a really tight fit. This will make the install much easier! Thanks again!
Glad it helped!
Right on thank you for your Help Going to work on the old 65 Chevy pick up today. Knock it out. 😂.
Glad it helped!
プッシュロッドの固定に苦労してました。
非常に助かります。
Dude, you are a lifesaver!
Muy buen video muy vien esplicado , solo una pregunta , si el orificio donde entra el lapiz viene tapado, es solo un tapon ? Se puede destapar ?
May be it has an electric fuel pump and not needed from the factory. Also, camshaft may not have the fuel pump lobe to drive the pump
just barely snug that bolt into the pushrod hole, just enough to hold the rod on place
Is it possible that the camshaft will be stuck in the fuel pump rods furthest outward position? I can't get the pin to push upwards into the hole, do I need to manually turn the engine over a bit to cycle the pin inward?
Put the engine at top dead center, that should allow the rod to go higher.
I've made a big mistake not pushing the rod and installing that fuel pump now that rod it's stucked , didn't put my ingine on top death center I broke the fuel pump also ,, any advise to get that rod out? ☹️
What happens if you’re missing the bolt in front of the block? I swapped my pump but lost the bolt. Can I still run the truck without it?
It will run, but your going to leak some oil, that goes directly to fuel pump shaft that is lubricated by oil pumping in engine. It’s a super common size just find a new 3/8 - 16 thread and about 1/2 inch long.
Hell yeah thanks for the info! Great video and very informative. Not overwhelming and just enough to get us by. Glad to see some updated videos that aren’t 480p and 7+ years old 😅
So that's what that bolt on the front of the block is for!
Haha! You got it
I have an 88 Cheyenne. The previous owner put a 4 barrel carb on it instead of the fuel injection.
He ran the fuel line from the tank to the mechanical pump on the older used engine that he installed. The electric pump pushes fuel to the mechanical pump on the side of the block.
My question is; is this ok to do or will it cause problems?
Short answer is use one or the other. Probably best to remove mechanical but if the electric has too much pressure on carb that’s not good either.
The front small bolt. 3/8"-16 x 1/2"
Bro my buddy snapped this bolt in half at 1am this morning commen is too helpful
Great video buddy worked for me was going crazy thanks a lot
Nice! Glad it helped
Step 1. Top dead center. Makes it so much easier.
Yeah I mentioned that but not necessary.
Video is very helpful and is explained really good!!! Thank-you 😊
Very good video!! Very useful and clear, thank you! It hepls me a lot 👍
Any reason for utilizing a silicone sealant as opposed to say a gasket dressing such as Hylomar? Just curious as I am fixing to do this job soon. Thanks for the video!
@@johngreen2510 there’s lots of ways to seal it up, it was over kill to use gasket and silicon but it doesn’t leak.
Im missing the original bolt for the hole you put the longer bolt in to hold the pushrod up. Any chance you know what size bolt should be there to begin with? Found out thats where my oil leak is from
I believe it is short, like half inch. If you tighten a bolt in there and it doesn’t go all the way down it’s too long 😜
Hey man I’m replacing mine right now but cannot find info on whether or not the push rod needs to be oriented a certain way. One side of the rod is smoother / shinier than the other side. Which side is the cam side ? Thanks in advance.
Smoother rounder side I would assume what you want hitting the cam
The bolt you put back in did u tighten it hard? The one that was holding the pushrod?
No like 15-20 pounds of torque
@@ChrisNCars is it necessary for that bolt? I’ve seen many engine builds and none of them have it
@@bigbawsz2054 it will leak without it if you have a mechanical pump. If you don’t have mechanical you probably have a plate and plug over all this.
WELL DONE, CHRIS!!
Do you always need to replace the bracket
No, I just did because mine was leaking.
I'm do you really need to take out the bolt on the side of the fuel pump I'm having a hard time trying to take it out
Thanks. How long does the silicone need to dry for before you start vehicle?
Technically you can start immediately, I give it a few hours
@@ChrisNCars Awesome thanks. I got new one working it seems so far..it wasnt pumping fuel to filter at first so i just squeezed the hose and that seemed to do the trick to get the pump going.
Odd... my 327 in my 67 impala does not have the holes for the bolts. Its just flat. Makes me wonder if the previous owner did something to it, or if this year production did something different.
Probably a newer v8 that would assume electric pump?
@@ChrisNCars That was my first thought, but I checked the casting number. It is dated for this car, made in 67... definitely in a time of mechanical fuel pumps. Never been so confused. I'm currently working on it, wondering how the previous own put on the mech fuel pump that's on it.
Way cool. Easy,. Well at least you made it look easy...
Ha! it is pretty easy. Always good to work on your own cars.
@@ChrisNCars totally agree.
Do you gotta use gasker maker???
You need some sort of RTV silicone.
my 79 GMC Sierra Grande doesn't have a bracket on it, is that unusual, something missing, something I should worry about?
If it’s a 350 or 5.7 just look up what year should have
I’m currently replacing the mechanical fuel pump on my 76’ Chevy. The push rod is stuck. I’ve greased it up, tried to use pliers to pull it up, removed the bolt that holds it and tried to manually crank the engine. Still nothing. Any ideas?
Dang does the cam push it when you crank the engine?
Very helpful especially with the rod.
What does that short bolt do?
Probable just designed to hold up the rod and plug the hole 🤷♂️
I am missing the bolt (1:12) that sits next to the harmonic balancer. Can you tell the the size of the bolt and thread size? I’d really appreciate it.
Believe he'd said it was a 3/8 by 16 thread
Indeed 3/8 X 16 bolt will work. Not sure the length but shorter then 1/2 inch should be fine.
Yeah 1/2 will work. His has 11 threads on it so it's assumed to be 11/16" or 0.6875" long. I have a 3/4 which is the smallest lowes sells. So either I'm grinding it down to half or placing washers in between. I believe the 3/4" length will be fine but I haven't seen anyone mentioned the length and I've already installed a new pump and don't want to remove and see if it interferes with the push rod.
So yeah if you can find it it's 3/8"-16 x 1/2"
Thanks, did not know that trick about the push-rod!!
Hey man I got a 93 chevy tbi 350 what’s should I do to cut off the electrical fuel pump to install the mechanical pump so I can skip buying the regulator?
Working on a 83 Firebird, teaching myself. She's still having fuel problems, when I installed a new pump I pushed the rod up by hand, never took off that plate. How likely is it I goofed something?
You shouldn’t need to take the plate off but you need to hold that rod up while putting in pump. You can’t really do that by hand that’s why I use the bolt. The other was is use a saw blade or bendable piece of metal.
@@ChrisNCars My gf held the rod up while I installed, I think she's good? Carb still isn't getting gas so somethings iffy
@@Avengel-hl5kg I’m not sure how she could hold the rod while you got fuel pump in, it’s a really narrow gap. Could be a lot though kink in tub, old junk in tank plugging something, fuel filter, etc.
What happens if u don’t put the rod back in the right spot? Will the fuel pump go back on?
You can only put the rod in one way? The pump wouldn’t work without rod
Thanks bud doing this today.
Since the fuel pump has just 2 bolts, why do you also remove the plate that has 4 bolts? Is it to just push the rod up with your finger?
Because it was leaking so I replaced both 😜
Just found your channel and will be subscribing. Was looking because my son's Nova suddenly had fuel leaking and found that the bolt that you put in to hold the rod is missing. You explained everything well. What size did you say the bolt was?
You want a 3/8th” x 16 x 1/2”
Excellent video. What's the difference between the longer (height wise) pumps vs the shorty one you installed?
Do you mean the bowl being longer? Just more fuel capacity, more gas.
@@ChrisNCars Yea the bowl part.
How tight do the bolts go? My gasket broke from over tightening
20-25 foot pounds doesn’t need to be crazy tight
My mechanical fuel pump have a long thing on it that the rod hit will it still work
Does you pump look the one in the video? There is a lever the rod pushes on but I can’t tell you your good without seeing it
Easy to understand…Thank you. Liked and Subbed.
Very helpful. Thanks for sharing.
Should you greese the push rod ?
There should be enough oil residue in the engine.
Do you really need the screw on the side of the block to put the rod end for better position
If you don’t it’s a pain to hold up while putting the pump in
@@ChrisNCars what is the size of the screws that you put in on this side of the pump fuel pump my engine is a 305
@@josemarmolejomarmolejo80 should be a 3/8-16
You learn something new ever day
Would gas get mixed in with the motor oil if any of these gaskets go out?
Not unless the internal seals in pump failed?
@@ChrisNCars I found out my car had this problem and it fouled up my plugs. Got new plugs in, swapped the oil out and my car ran smooth for a day. Shortly after that it feels rough again and my oil reeked of gas.
Had a compression check done and it was normal so it's not a piston seal or something.
Looks like my 350 doesn’t have a Rod I don’t see a bolt for the rod does that mean something?
Are you sure it’s a small block?
@@ChrisNCars yep 350 I’ll look again lol
@@tylerangel4073 it’s possible it was removed and plate was put on. This is fine if you have a pump somewhere else.
@@ChrisNCars Just looked at it again The guy I bought it from must have done this but he put thick black Wire we’re that bolt went I’ve never seen that before and the lower bolt under that has no Bolt any ideas?
@@tylerangel4073 can you send me a picture? Chrisncars.mail@gmail.com
Very helpful video men.thank
Nice video , I hate those ratchets though lol
Damn I wish I had watched this great video BEFORE I removed my old fuel pump!!!
Fuel pump rod fell and I can't get it pushed back up in the block. Any advice on this will be greatly appreciated 👍
Is it going in at all? Putting the engine at top dead center will make it go higher.
Thanks bro
Great videos 💯
Put a rag in the fuel pump block hole to keep junk from falling into the engine.
@@johnmorykwas2343 always do, missed showing for video though 😅
I have a 71 K5 Blazer. All of a sudden it won't run unless I put gas in the carburetor. Runs for a minute. How do I know if it's the carburetor or the fuel pump? And help with greatly be appreciated.
If you look into the carb, while running you should see fuel shooting out of jets when you hit the throttle. If you don’t it’s probably the pump. Could be a lot though, clogged jets, fuel line or filter. If it idles rough or dies when you give it gas, probably a vacuum leak.
@@ChrisNCars yeah I did that, no fuel at all. It won't even start without putting a little gas in the carb. I've been having carburetor issues though too. That's why I was asking. Baby was a fuel pump getting weaker and weaker all this time?
@@poolman8676 probably the pump then. At least it is a lot cheaper then a new carb!
@@ChrisNCars just rebuilt the carb, it hasn't run right since. Lol... Thanks again. New subscriber as well
@@ChrisNCars update, it's a week accelerator pump in the carb. Fuel pump is working like itshould.
do you always use that much silicone?
No lol, especially on aluminum. You can’t tell in the video but plate was kinda warped so I sealed the crap out of it, ha!