I have the same pump on a big block chevy. Design flaw in my view is small fine-thread screws tapped into cast aluminum body combined with wrestling with a spring-loaded diaphram and clocking the alignment is a recipe for disaster. I needed two tries to position it to an optimum position. I ended up stripping two of the six screws and not using power tools. I ended up drilling out all the threaded holes in the aluminum and bought all stainless steel, longer screws and nuts with a built-in lockwasher. I feel much safer with a stainless steel nuts and loctite holding this thing together. Screws and nuts are available at McMaster Carr. I wish I could post a photo here in the comments to share... If you are going to use the factory tapped holes in aluminum, I highly suggest you use anti-seize lube same as you would a spark plug in aluminum. Those threads easily turn to powder after a few removals. Thanks for the video..Great job...
@@oantech4252 I purposely didn’t mention the hardware in these pumps but I will here because no one will read it. 😂 It’s the same tri lobular hardware they use in the carburetors. Those pumps are pretty robust. Been around for decades. Doesn’t mean there are occasional problems, but it’s extremely rare. Then again, I usually run a pump in tank. When I do run a mechanical, it’s either an Edelbrock or Holley. 👍
Hi, My HW is all old 60s iron heads and I stopped using aluminum anti-s paste in favor of just dipstick oil. Torqued "by feel" and long time no issues. On VW heads I used a lot! Those were notorious for stripping, especially if you lost your German originals. Back then, shops would encourage keeping them if possible, and adding steel inserts. Once u succumbed to the Mex/Brasilia junk...u learned to pray
I forgot to say that if you buy a good aftermarket pump like these that let you do this, u pretty much saved the cost on your first re-clock and better solution. 👍
Great vid, very helpful!! I'm going to clock remove and install on my '55 Chevy/350. I need to clock mine opposite side that you just demonstrated on yours.
Just did this a few weeks ago, used a long piece of pipe to add leverage to the pump arm and keep the diagram in the right spot. I had to clock the pump to clear the frame on my Studebaker, quite happy with the pump!
Hey Brian, doesn’t matter if it’s a AC pump for a 57 235, or modern day Edelbrock they all appear to need diaphragm preload, good video and easy to follow, have a great week 😀😀
@@DesertRatFabrication it’s in the instructions, but who reads those? 😆 Hope it helps someone figure out why their mechanical pump doesn’t work after they tried to change positions! 👍 Hope you have a great week also.
I have the same pump on a big block chevy. Design flaw in my view is small fine-thread screws tapped into cast aluminum body combined with wrestling with a spring-loaded diaphram and clocking the alignment is a recipe for disaster.
I needed two tries to position it to an optimum position. I ended up stripping two of the six screws and not using power tools.
I ended up drilling out all the threaded holes in the aluminum and bought all stainless steel, longer screws and nuts with a built-in lockwasher. I feel much safer with a stainless steel nuts and loctite holding this thing together. Screws and nuts are available at McMaster Carr.
I wish I could post a photo here in the comments to share...
If you are going to use the factory tapped holes in aluminum, I highly suggest you use anti-seize lube same as you would a spark plug in aluminum. Those threads easily turn to powder after a few removals.
Thanks for the video..Great job...
@@oantech4252 I purposely didn’t mention the hardware in these pumps but I will here because no one will read it. 😂 It’s the same tri lobular hardware they use in the carburetors. Those pumps are pretty robust. Been around for decades. Doesn’t mean there are occasional problems, but it’s extremely rare. Then again, I usually run a pump in tank. When I do run a mechanical, it’s either an Edelbrock or Holley. 👍
@@MuscleCarSolutions I read it 😊. 👍
Hi, My HW is all old 60s iron heads and I stopped using aluminum anti-s paste in favor of just dipstick oil. Torqued "by feel" and long time no issues. On VW heads I used a lot! Those were notorious for stripping, especially if you lost your German originals. Back then, shops would encourage keeping them if possible, and adding steel inserts. Once u succumbed to the Mex/Brasilia junk...u learned to pray
I forgot to say that if you buy a good aftermarket pump like these that let you do this, u pretty much saved the cost on your first re-clock and better solution. 👍
My dad got into VWs for a little while in the late 70s. I learned almost all of my swear words during that period of time. 😆
Great vid, very helpful!! I'm going to clock remove and install on my '55 Chevy/350. I need to clock mine opposite side that you just demonstrated on yours.
Thanks for the new knowledge!
@@VinoRatRodbuilds hope all is well with you and your arms haven’t fallen off yet from all the sanding! 😂
@@MuscleCarSolutions that's funny! Like sanding Kmart Bondo. 🫣
Just did this a few weeks ago, used a long piece of pipe to add leverage to the pump arm and keep the diagram in the right spot. I had to clock the pump to clear the frame on my Studebaker, quite happy with the pump!
@@harnettsgarage nice! Glad you got it on and clocked where you wanted it. Leverage makes it so much easier! 👍
Hey Brian, doesn’t matter if it’s a AC pump for a 57 235, or modern day Edelbrock they all appear to need diaphragm preload, good video and easy to follow, have a great week 😀😀
@@DesertRatFabrication it’s in the instructions, but who reads those? 😆 Hope it helps someone figure out why their mechanical pump doesn’t work after they tried to change positions! 👍 Hope you have a great week also.
@@MuscleCarSolutions and or why the diaphragm fails prematurely 🤪🤪
@@DesertRatFabrication yup!
Good video. Just learned something new. Thanks for that.
@@jeffdeavours1280 glad you liked it! 👍
Excellent thank you!
@@RandallSoong-pp7ih 👍
Thanks for this video......I clocked my pump and have zero fuel pressure, now I know what I did wrong.
thats going to come in handy i didnt kno you had to lock it down under pressure. thanks man
@@PACBrian hope it helps!
Good video, greetings from Mexico 👌🇲🇽
Thanks!
Thank you sir been studying on buying one of these so I can move fuel lines
@@MVPisME383 they’re not complicated with the right technique.
Thanks for the video brother! Good info to have
@@Red9GearHeads not the hardest task, but it can be without a lot of leverage! 😂 Thank you!
Awesome video brother!
@@landoncustomclassics thanks!
Always great info!! 👍
@@hybridmusclegarage4590 thanks man!
Another great video
@@andrewforster4974 thanks man!
If that's for the GMC, you didn't waste no time installing the new engine look forward to the first start up keep the videos coming
@@johnweaver8470 yup! Engine is in and working on getting everyone hooked up as I find the time. Hope all has been well with you!
Curious if anyone has a big block chevelle with the edelbrock pump? Was the factory setting good or did you have to clock it. Thank you for the video!
@@patcaro7072 I clocked mine on my big block 67.
Now i know why my pump didn’t work after i clocked it!
@@patrckgann1438 yeah it’s pretty common unfortunately. Easy fix though!
Maybe a Dumb question but can you clock this while it’s still bolted to the block and not have to worry about the diaphragm ? 🤔🤷♂️
@@bobbymolak3364 only if you want the pump to stop working.
Thank you for your knowledge and videos USA 🇺🇸 TRUMP