Love ya, doing it today, had a 318 built from scratch and the guy who built it drove uo and out it in. He never took a bolt or screw out that didn't need to come out, I helped a little, total job motor out and new in about 10 hours in 90 degree heat. Unbelievably easy on a 1976 Dod van, actually a 1 ton cutoff motorhome van , 318 engine 300CB. He suggested to get a new radiator so I'm doing that today. Wish me luck, I think I can do it though.
Very good explanation of how to do it and the parts needed to complete the job correctly. I enjoy watching your videos and look forward to them and I'm a ford guy but I know that u had a couple old fords as well. I'm doing a restomod on a 79 pinto and building a stroker 347 for it but going to try and keep it original looking as I can so it will be a little bit of a sleeper
I showed the part number of timing chain in the video, although there are tons of timing chain a guy could buy. I showed the gasket sealer Max Oil Resistant" and said "Indian Head Shellac" in the video. Timing chain gasket set from your favorite parts store, i used fel pro TCS6531. I thought I said water pump from NAPA in video. That's it! I re-used the anti-freeze.
Very nice work...... I always replace the cam plate with a 3.9 V6 chain tensioner and drill a small hole in plug from lifter galley and I drill a small hole in tensioner cam plate this allows oil to squirt on chain for lubrication...... I have a stack of the oil slingers so I install one if not equipped......before I put timing cover back on I sand gasket surfaces with 120 to 220 grit gives a better seal on water passages..... I install timing cover with two bolts loose cause the cover has no dowel locating pins....and use the dampner to center it to keep front seal centered and prevent premature front seal leaks.......love the Chrysler blue paint finish!
Just great thanks as I’m doing this to my 77 Power Wagon.Any recommendation on a cam upgrade and do you have a vid on replacing cam with engine in the truck?
Thanks for watching. If only changing the cam, then I'd keep it on the small size would be my recommendation. I have a video of cam swap in a van. Truck would be much easier because of more room
Great video - thank you! I'm about to take this task on, and was wondering if putting the front wheels up on ramps would make the job easier - or harder...?
Question your 4 water jacket bolts, they are the same length? my 89 W100 (318) I didn’t make note of which bolts came out where (besides the pulley/ fan/ and huge bracket for alternator and AC) it seems I have one bolt that’s 1/4 inch longer than the other three? That would go through the water jackets? You wouldn’t happen to have said diagram of bolt locations would you? Or have a location of one?
depends on what accessories your vehicle might have came with. However, pretty hard to mix them up as when they make contact with the threads you'll see how much they have to turn in before tightening up (should only be about 3/8 of an inch)
@@318willrun thank you! Looks like the air pump/smog setup was removed- however there is still part of the bracket on one or two of the bolts and those seem to go through the water jackets also- assuming that’s the brownish/tarnish look on them.
How did you check if there is pressure in the AC system? May need to remove mine. Between that clutter and my brake master cylinder, lines and booster in the way - I'm still trying to figure out how to get the radiator pulled. [Working on my '77 B200 w/ a 360]
How was everything after replacing the timing chain. I notice the new replacement timing chain and sprocket is double compare to the factory being single. Any info explaination or reasoning if it necessary because I always go base on identical parts.
At 7.43 you say that the tension of the chain should always be tight on the driven side,loose on the passenger side.My 318 is the opposite of that,will it make any difference?On My car the timing marks move about at idle and the tach needle fluctuates too,instead of being steady.It has a biggish cam in it though if that could be the problem?
The chain will be tight on the pull side, which is the drivers side. IF you shut the car off and the engine back strokes a few degrees, you may find it opposite. IF your idle rpm's are unsteady, and the timing marks are moving at idle, it could be a loose timing chain. It could also mean the distributor's mechanical timing advancement is moving by either RPM being increased (with weak springs) or through the vacuum advance if you are running one, especially if you are using manifold vacuum on the vacuum advance.
I have to ask i wanna do a double roller, it seems more durable and helps with vibration as well. Is there a size difference or anything much different from a single roller besides it having that extra set?
Way cool, just lost power in m y 318 few weeks ago, got fuel pressure, checked compression on all my cylinders, 125 on all of them, changed carb still no power, got spark, today advanced my timing and got back power, shoots right up to 60 mph no problem, but still having occasional backfire, going to change timing chain, could that still be causing my backfire even after i advanced timing, if my timing chain is worn out and loose? thanks for vids as always
@@318willrungot double roller put in, running like a top, only got 90,000 on my 85 318 Putting together a 72 360, going to put it in my 87 in place of a 225, can you tell me how I can see if I have a 9 1/4 or a 8 1/4 rear end, going for upper 300s in hp, probably need a 91/4? Thanks
@@blakenorman4822 Well, a 8.25 will have 10 bolts, 9.25 will have 12 bolts. There are some good images on line if you type in "Mopar Rear Axle Spotter's Guide"
i have a 1970 318 engine , what oil should i use and i have a choice of fram ph8a filter and ph43 the ph8a is long and is near a bar so i was thinking i would use the ph43 because its shorter , is that ok
Use an oil with proper zinc level. VR-1 10w-30 would be great oil for it, or you can use any oil you like and add a zinc additive. I have even used (and still do) Rotella T4 diesel oil as it has more of the vitamins these old engines need. The reason for the zinc is the flat tappet cam lives on zinc. Yes, you can use ph43 although I'm not overly big on Fram. I use the Mopar 090 filter, can be bought at Walmart.
@@318willrun i can only find ph43 Is that ok to use I ask because its shorter than the oh8a filter. Yes t4 10w30 I hear its good oil What about t5 the semi synthetic one is that ok also
I changed my timing gear on my 318 and the motor accidently got turned with the timing gear off. Help please what do I need to do to get it back in time.
It didn't have one. Most of the small block mopars I've disassembled haven't had one. And I've never found the cam plate bolt with a hole in it. Just luck of the draw I suppose.....
direct connection cataloged the slinger with a “P” parts prefix for high RPM service . Make a bolt with a smaller hole if your running a high volume pump .
I am having a really annoying issue. I have searched the entire enternet for answers and havent come up with much. I have a 86 chrysler 5th ave. Has a 318 2 barrel. Well for some damn reason i replaced the timing chain the same time i did cam and lifter set. The engine was really sludged up and had a lifter tic that would quit. Well everything went fine. But within a few hundred miles the new chain was really loose. So i replaced it again. This time with an expensive double roller. I believe it was a melling or cloyes. Now with maybe 2-3 thousand miles the chain was making lots of noise. Took the fuel pump off and yet again. New timing chain loose as hell. Why on earth is this engine chewing up timing sets like this?! To me it seems that the chain is not getting enough oil. My engine does not have an oil Slinger or that little pointer thing... Also there is no bolt with a small hole in it that holds the cam plate on. So it seems like this engine from the factory had no real way to oil the chain much. It came stock with a nylon coated gear set. Only thing i can think is they figured with the nylon it didnt need as much oil. But now with standard chains it does... Any sugguestions?
wouldn't be the slinger or bolt with no hole, especially in a short time. Timing chains will loosen up in a few hundred miles, but nothing radical. Without knowing the amount of "slop" you are referring to, it's hard for me to say. All that I've taken apart have never had the hole in the bolt, and most of the time slingers are left out if somebody has been in them before. I can't explain the noise, but will venture out to ask if the cam is rotating with an extraordinary amount of resistance??
I see this engine of yours has only 3 bolts holding the cam plate on. I believe mine had 4. So i think your engine was getting oil from the "missing bolt hole". I would say my higher quality double roller chain had about the same slop in a few thousand miles as the old chain had in your engine. Maybe this just seems like too much to me but really isnt that bad? I may go back in now for a 3rd time and look things over better this time. Starting to get annoying. Right now this is my only vehicle. Had a string of bad luck with my tundra dying and then losing my job. I was about to try to get a loan on a new challenger. Now im stuck living with old junk only. Getting tempted to order a reman engine from the part store. But my rear end is getting noisey and the trans wont kickdown at highway speeds ( tried adjusting the linkage...) Feel like this car just needs a whole new drive train!
I always learn something that I didn't know before from your videos. You are a very good teacher. Thank you
Love ya, doing it today, had a 318 built from scratch and the guy who built it drove uo and out it in. He never took a bolt or screw out that didn't need to come out, I helped a little, total job motor out and new in about 10 hours in 90 degree heat. Unbelievably easy on a 1976 Dod van, actually a 1 ton cutoff motorhome van , 318 engine 300CB. He suggested to get a new radiator so I'm doing that today. Wish me luck, I think I can do it though.
Best of luck with your project!!!
318's are a top motor all around
pro tip: watch movies at kaldroStream. Been using them for watching all kinds of movies these days.
@Keagan Kieran Definitely, have been using Kaldrostream for since november myself =)
@Keagan Kieran Yup, have been using Kaldrostream for months myself :D
@Keagan Kieran Yea, I have been watching on kaldroStream for since december myself :D
@Keagan Kieran definitely, I have been using kaldrostream for months myself =)
Thank you so much! This is great info that I can hardly find anywhere.
Thanks for watching !
Straight forward and to the point, you're much better at tutorials than I am lol
You're too kind :)
Step by step, full of tips and tricks!
Great video keep um coming. I love the your simple explanation of the little details. Best channel on UA-cam 👌...
Much appreciated!
Great video! Great information! Love the van! Thanks for sharing!
Very good explanation of how to do it and the parts needed to complete the job correctly. I enjoy watching your videos and look forward to them and I'm a ford guy but I know that u had a couple old fords as well. I'm doing a restomod on a 79 pinto and building a stroker 347 for it but going to try and keep it original looking as I can so it will be a little bit of a sleeper
You saw the Ford that took us to buy this van in the previous video, I'm sure......
Thanks a lot! Would appreciate a parts list in description ! Thanks again, looking forward for more!
I showed the part number of timing chain in the video, although there are tons of timing chain a guy could buy. I showed the gasket sealer Max Oil Resistant" and said "Indian Head Shellac" in the video. Timing chain gasket set from your favorite parts store, i used fel pro TCS6531. I thought I said water pump from NAPA in video. That's it! I re-used the anti-freeze.
Thanks for This.. very helpful and better then a how to done on a engine stand in comparison.. keep at it..
Thank you!
Thank you great video
Very helpful, thank you sir.
You are welcome
Very nice work...... I always replace the cam plate with a 3.9 V6 chain tensioner and drill a small hole in plug from lifter galley and I drill a small hole in tensioner cam plate this allows oil to squirt on chain for lubrication...... I have a stack of the oil slingers so I install one if not equipped......before I put timing cover back on I sand gasket surfaces with 120 to 220 grit gives a better seal on water passages..... I install timing cover with two bolts loose cause the cover has no dowel locating pins....and use the dampner to center it to keep front seal centered and prevent premature front seal leaks.......love the Chrysler blue paint finish!
Just great thanks as I’m doing this to my 77 Power Wagon.Any recommendation on a cam upgrade and do you have a vid on replacing cam with engine in the truck?
Thanks for watching. If only changing the cam, then I'd keep it on the small size would be my recommendation. I have a video of cam swap in a van. Truck would be much easier because of more room
Great video - thank you! I'm about to take this task on, and was wondering if putting the front wheels up on ramps would make the job easier - or harder...?
Depends on the type of vehicle. I tend to do this job with the vehicle on the ground
@@318willrun Thanks, I kept it on the ground
Question your 4 water jacket bolts, they are the same length?
my 89 W100 (318) I didn’t make note of which bolts came out where (besides the pulley/ fan/ and huge bracket for alternator and AC) it seems I have one bolt that’s 1/4 inch longer than the other three? That would go through the water jackets? You wouldn’t happen to have said diagram of bolt locations would you? Or have a location of one?
depends on what accessories your vehicle might have came with. However, pretty hard to mix them up as when they make contact with the threads you'll see how much they have to turn in before tightening up (should only be about 3/8 of an inch)
@@318willrun thank you! Looks like the air pump/smog setup was removed- however there is still part of the bracket on one or two of the bolts and those seem to go through the water jackets also- assuming that’s the brownish/tarnish look on them.
How did you check if there is pressure in the AC system? May need to remove mine. Between that clutter and my brake master cylinder, lines and booster in the way - I'm still trying to figure out how to get the radiator pulled. [Working on my '77 B200 w/ a 360]
technically, they make a gage. For me, i pushed in on the high pressure side valve and nothing came out.
How was everything after replacing the timing chain. I notice the new replacement timing chain and sprocket is double compare to the factory being single. Any info explaination or reasoning if it necessary because I always go base on identical parts.
It's been perfect. We took it on vacation shortly after the install. I went with a much better, higher quality timing set than what the factory used.
At 7.43 you say that the tension of the chain should always be tight on the driven side,loose on the passenger side.My 318 is the opposite of that,will it make any difference?On My car the timing marks move about at idle and the tach needle fluctuates too,instead of being steady.It has a biggish cam in it though if that could be the problem?
The chain will be tight on the pull side, which is the drivers side. IF you shut the car off and the engine back strokes a few degrees, you may find it opposite. IF your idle rpm's are unsteady, and the timing marks are moving at idle, it could be a loose timing chain. It could also mean the distributor's mechanical timing advancement is moving by either RPM being increased (with weak springs) or through the vacuum advance if you are running one, especially if you are using manifold vacuum on the vacuum advance.
I have to ask i wanna do a double roller, it seems more durable and helps with vibration as well. Is there a size difference or anything much different from a single roller besides it having that extra set?
Everything fits as before
@@318willrun thank you appreciate it, hope the van is staying strong i have a w200 77 with a 318
@@AstralVibez It's running great and we love it !!
Way cool, just lost power in m y 318 few weeks ago, got fuel pressure, checked compression on all my cylinders, 125 on all of them, changed carb still no power, got spark, today advanced my timing and got back power, shoots right up to 60 mph no problem, but still having occasional backfire, going to change timing chain, could that still be causing my backfire even after i advanced timing, if my timing chain is worn out and loose? thanks for vids as always
Yep, I'd head straight to the timing chain as the next step!
@@318willrungot double roller put in, running like a top, only got 90,000 on my 85 318
Putting together a 72 360, going to put it in my 87 in place of a 225, can you tell me how I can see if I have a 9 1/4 or a 8 1/4 rear end, going for upper 300s in hp, probably need a 91/4? Thanks
@@blakenorman4822 Well, a 8.25 will have 10 bolts, 9.25 will have 12 bolts. There are some good images on line if you type in "Mopar Rear Axle Spotter's Guide"
I've heard it will back fire out the back it's retarted and out the intake it's too advanced. That may be backwards too
In the process right now and the rubber that goes on the oil pan is a pain!
it can be for sure....
i have a 1970 318 engine , what oil should i use and i have a choice of fram ph8a filter and ph43 the ph8a is long and is near a bar so i was thinking i would use the ph43 because its shorter , is that ok
Use an oil with proper zinc level. VR-1 10w-30 would be great oil for it, or you can use any oil you like and add a zinc additive. I have even used (and still do) Rotella T4 diesel oil as it has more of the vitamins these old engines need. The reason for the zinc is the flat tappet cam lives on zinc. Yes, you can use ph43 although I'm not overly big on Fram. I use the Mopar 090 filter, can be bought at Walmart.
@@318willrun i can only find ph43
Is that ok to use
I ask because its shorter than the oh8a filter.
Yes t4 10w30
I hear its good oil
What about t5 the semi synthetic one is that ok also
@@jimgee2676 the ph43 will work. semi synth will work also, just make sure you have or add zinc to it
@@318willrun i will use ph43 with rotella t5 semi synthetic 10w30
Can i use 15w40 or is that too thick
@@jimgee2676 15w40 will be just fine
Is there space to change the camshaft?
there is if you pull the radiator and grill! I changed the cam in our '89 Van. I believe I made a video on it.
@@318willrun thnx i will check you’re video
I changed my timing gear on my 318 and the motor accidently got turned with the timing gear off. Help please what do I need to do to get it back in time.
No worry. Put the cam gear at noon, crank gear at noon, and point the rotor at #1 plug wire
@@318willrun Ok awesome! I was worried as heck! The 318 is in a Wayne wood chipper. Does it make any difference if it's a CCW 318?
@@jts9120 I"ve not timed a CCW engine... I'd have to think that through....
@@318willrun ok thanks much I appreciate it.
@@318willrun Hey I got it figured out. The firing order is different on the distributor but the same on the block. Thanks for your help just the same
Where's the oil slinger?
It didn't have one. Most of the small block mopars I've disassembled haven't had one. And I've never found the cam plate bolt with a hole in it. Just luck of the draw I suppose.....
direct connection cataloged the slinger with a “P” parts prefix for high RPM service . Make a bolt with a smaller hole if your running a high volume pump .
I am having a really annoying issue. I have searched the entire enternet for answers and havent come up with much. I have a 86 chrysler 5th ave. Has a 318 2 barrel. Well for some damn reason i replaced the timing chain the same time i did cam and lifter set. The engine was really sludged up and had a lifter tic that would quit. Well everything went fine. But within a few hundred miles the new chain was really loose. So i replaced it again. This time with an expensive double roller. I believe it was a melling or cloyes. Now with maybe 2-3 thousand miles the chain was making lots of noise. Took the fuel pump off and yet again. New timing chain loose as hell. Why on earth is this engine chewing up timing sets like this?! To me it seems that the chain is not getting enough oil. My engine does not have an oil Slinger or that little pointer thing... Also there is no bolt with a small hole in it that holds the cam plate on. So it seems like this engine from the factory had no real way to oil the chain much. It came stock with a nylon coated gear set. Only thing i can think is they figured with the nylon it didnt need as much oil. But now with standard chains it does... Any sugguestions?
wouldn't be the slinger or bolt with no hole, especially in a short time. Timing chains will loosen up in a few hundred miles, but nothing radical. Without knowing the amount of "slop" you are referring to, it's hard for me to say. All that I've taken apart have never had the hole in the bolt, and most of the time slingers are left out if somebody has been in them before. I can't explain the noise, but will venture out to ask if the cam is rotating with an extraordinary amount of resistance??
I see this engine of yours has only 3 bolts holding the cam plate on. I believe mine had 4. So i think your engine was getting oil from the "missing bolt hole". I would say my higher quality double roller chain had about the same slop in a few thousand miles as the old chain had in your engine. Maybe this just seems like too much to me but really isnt that bad? I may go back in now for a 3rd time and look things over better this time. Starting to get annoying. Right now this is my only vehicle. Had a string of bad luck with my tundra dying and then losing my job. I was about to try to get a loan on a new challenger. Now im stuck living with old junk only. Getting tempted to order a reman engine from the part store. But my rear end is getting noisey and the trans wont kickdown at highway speeds ( tried adjusting the linkage...) Feel like this car just needs a whole new drive train!