1986 Dodge D150 318 Timing Chain Tensioner Upgrade
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- Опубліковано 7 чер 2021
- 1986 Dodge D150 318 V8 Timing Chain Replacement with Tensioner Upgrade.
While upgrading the timing chain set to a double roller unit, I decided to see if adding the timing chain tensioner from a 3.9L V6 would be of any benefit. I'm waiting for a front oil slinger to arrive from EBay so the final assembly and test drive will be in Part 2.
Parts:
Cloyes Gear Engine Timing Chain Tensioner Part # 9-5387
Doorman Timing Chain Cover Part # 635-400
Howard's Billet Double Roller Timing Chain Part # HRS-94330 - Авто та транспорт
Soaking the timing chain for a few hours or overnight in oil is a good idea. Gets oil in the rollers. So its not running dry on start up.
Thanks for the info. I think I did soak it but probably not that long.
great video, thanks for making this. Getting ready to install the same timing chain tensioner on my 318
The only thing id say to watch out for is the double roller chain riding that plastic piece of the tensioner. You could wind up with pieces in your oil pan. Those chain tensioners are meant for the silent chains that are more smooth than the Double rollers. Just something to keep an eye on
Doing the exact same fix with a Howard's timing set and Cloyes tensioner on my 318 to get rid of a sloppy chain that was knocking against the fuel pump arm. Thanks for the video!
about 1K miles so far without issues after the install. That timing chain is so nice looking that it's a shame it has to be covered up. I had to drop my oil pan a few hundred miles ago to replace a failed oil pump and the chain and tensioner still looked good (from what I could see).
I just had those installed on my Fifth Avenue and the technician told me the same thing, tight as hell now and a PITA to install. I'll be finding out how it all performs once he gets the fuel injection system installed. Nice, clean 318 you have there, btw!
Thanks. Mine is still going strong. Let me know how yours works out.
@@garagemasher4162 Yes, will do. I'm hoping to have it back in a couple of months.
The tensioner is NOT recommended with a double roller chain due to the chain design, a standard chain will wear into the plastic tensioner pads a lot less than a double roller. If you look at the back of the standard chain vs the double roller you’ll see what I mean.
Ugh. Well, too late now..haha. I have plans in the future on replacing the cam so I'll be able to see then if there were any detrimental effects.
I had a Cordoba 82 318 and a new Yorker! 😂
With that after market bottom sprocket You can Set The crank to Cam advance Don't set it at 0 if you're running your factory Cam Put it in the plus 4 Degree slot Your factory Cam Should have A center line Of 112 My lunati Cam Shaft Is A 108 Basically directions on how to unpunkify it Using after market gears with stock Cam
Great video! Thank you so much for posting! I was doing some research on my own truck, which led me to your video. I have a '97 Dakota, but it's not the V8, it's the 3.9 V6 (Magnum). It has just under 89K miles on it, and the chain has rattled since I bought it almost 2 years ago in 2019. I finally decided to address it, and have been doing some research. I want to put the strongest, longest lasting chain in it that is available - and from what I have read, that would be a double roller. I have been told that if a double roller is used, a tensioner is not necessary - but if one can be installed, I want to put one in! No such thing as overkill right? I have been trying to find out if anyone has used a double roller chain along with a tensioner on a V6. Summit Racing was kind enough to respond, and said that a tensioner would not work with a double roller (but did not explain why). Then, I found your video, doing exactly that - but I also understand it's not the same engine as mine. Do you mind if I ask you: Is this something you are trying on your own (using a tensioner with a double roller), or did you already know that it would work beforehand? I realize we are talking 2 different beasts here, but I wanted to ask you after seeing your video. Looking forward to hearing back from you (if you have time to reply), and also looking forward to part 2! Thank you for your time. -Steve
Hi Steve, "No such thing as overkill" is exactly what I was thinking. The timing chain tensioner that I used was originally designed for the V6 due to timing chain stretch issues on that motor. Apparently it was so bad on the V6's that Dodge created the tensioner and put out a service bulletin for those complaining about 'noisy' engines. Did your V6 Magnum already not come with it installed? I have completed the installation and so far, so good (I'll be posting a follow up soon but there's nothing much to show really). FYI, it was a real bear to get on as you can probably tell from the video. As far as trying it on my own, I had read forum posts where they said it was ok to use the tensioner with a double roller so I just decided to give it a try to see what would happen. I don't know how much extra life I'll be getting out of the chain but It's a bit of a pain to get the cover off so I didn't want to have to do it again for a long time.
@@psykoD Hi Tim, Thank you so much for replying. I really appreciate you taking the time! Glad to hear you are back on the road and all good so far. From what I understand (to answer your question), Dodge didn't start installing the tensioners from the factory until '98, and apparently my truck never had the tensioner retrofit as per the service bulletin. I also wanted to mention that while Summit Racing stated that a tensioner would not work with the double roller, Hughes Engines got back to me, and not only said both could be used together, but gave me the part numbers (the HUG 6440 chain setup, and the CLO 9 - 5387 tensioner same as yours). So, thanks to you and Hughes Engines, I have the info I need now. Like you, I don't want to do this again for a long time! Thank you again for taking the time to reply Tim. Take care! -Steve
I'm thinking about doing the same upgrade now. Appreciate the really detailed video. Where did you order these parts from? All one website or did you have to get them from multiple?
Also - I see this was done in June of 21. Any issues since then? I have a 360 in my Ramcharger and I'm curious if I can do this same upgrade on it. Thanks!
Thanks. I couldn't remember where I bought everything. Looks like it mostly came from Summit Racing.
Here is the list of things I used (not counting seals, etc.):
1. Timing Set: www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-94330
2. Water Pump: www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-16250
3. Timing Chain Tensioner: www.summitracing.com/parts/clo-9-5387
4. Crank Snout Oil Slinger: www.ebay.com/itm/284159321290
Item 4 I bought just because it was not on my engine but it looked like it was supposed to be there and I wanted to make sure no oil got past the crank snout hole.
I have not had any issues at all with the timing or the water pump. However, at the same time I did all that, I also changed the oil pump (to a high volume unit) because my oil pressure was low. Now that caused me a lot of trouble! Everything was fine right after I got everything together but about a week later I started watching as my oil pressure started dropping. It finally went all the way to zero before I could get home along with a slight increase in water temp. I checked the engine and there wasn't any knocking so I figured my oil gauge was acting up. Nope. I have a mechanical gauge under the hood for troubleshooting and it was zero as well. I pulled the new oil pump and discovered a very slight dent in one of the rotors with a matching dent on the wall of the housing so something got pushed thru it that caused the pump to fail.
I decided that after the low oil pressure my bearings were probably toast even though I couldn't tell that anything was out of the norm except for the pressure reading. So I purchased a set of rod and main bearings and rolled them in with the engine still in the truck (along with a new oil pump). Thanks to UA-cam for showing me that trick. Anyway, I've got a full 60 psi cold and 30 psi hot now and the truck is running happy as a clam.
I also just recently converted from 2bbl to 4bbl using a Demon carb. I can definitely tell the difference with that change.
I think the timing enhancement should should work for the 360 as well (non-Magnum?).
Sorry, I forgot about the cover. I don't remember where I bought it but this is the one:
5. Timing Chain Cover: www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-635-400/make/dodge
The Chloe's brand was the only brand that had It advertised for small block Is 318 I bought mine for 3.9 l It is the exact same One number off on the part number And was $40 cheaper
Question: i have an issue with timing bouncing between 11-12 (that’s where mine seems to be happy at) doesn’t backfire through the TB as much, but if the chain has a little play- could this cause the backfire/cut out issue
A loose timing chain could definitely cause the timing to move around. Since you mentioned TB I'm assuming throttle body so it sounds like you have a fuel injected car vs my carbureted version but the principle is the same. To me, any backfiring would indicate timing is pretty far out such that the intake valves are partially opening during the exhaust (or compression) stroke. Since it doesn't seem to happen all the time, the problem could be whatever controls the timing. I'm sorry I'm not familiar with the fuel injected 318's but I suspect they have a timing controller (maybe a hall effect sensor). That could cause issues if it's failing. For my old jalopy, It came originally with a simple points style distributor and they can be a little sloppy. 1 to 2 degrees of fluctuation in timing would be quite normal for most points style distributor systems. However, I've replaced mine with a Holley e-curve distributer which is digitally controlled so it's much more stable. FYI, If the timing chain gets too loose it can actually skip a tooth which could cause a significant runability issues. That typically only happens on high mileage vehicles though (assuming the timing chain had never been replaced).
@@garagemasher4162 truck has 52,000 miles on her (1989 W100 5.2/318 TBI )
However, you are correct about the hall sensor, I’ve replaced spark related including the entire distributor setup, plugs and wires and ignition coil itself (checked worm gear in the block and it looks okay as well),
I’ve heard the timing being off by a tooth or teeth (if someone had it changed or never made it through the break in period for timing chain properly- it could cause the cam timing to be off, which would mean setting the ignition timing is more or less band-aid fix until the chain has been replaced.
Good video but with no conclusion, so did it fire up without any issues ? I got to do this on my 96 Dakota.
I apologize for not finishing up the video. I had a huge fiasco with an aftermarket oil pump that I installed at the same time that nearly took out the motor. Everything worked out though and the timing chain and tensioner are still going strong.
@@garagemasher4162 First thanks for taking the time to answer, second sorry to hear about the oil pump fiasco at least positive results happened with that chain/tensioner installation.
Great video thank you for sharing, I was just reading about that, good luck!!!
Part 2???
Did you have tapping sounds prior?
No tapping sounds at all prior to the switch. Timing was a bit erratic though. The main reason I changed it was due to the broken fuel pump mount on the timing cover.
How different are these engines from the 1984 318 motor?
Hi. As far as I know they're basically identical. There may be some minor emissions changes. I believe my '86 was the last if the carbureted versions. Then they went to fuel injection before switching to the Magnum 318.
@@garagemasher4162 Alright, thank you sir!
Thank you for the vid. I am working on a 87 Dodge Dakota, with a 3.9 Mitsu V6 and I think its similar, but the guy thinks bubble gum and tape can fix anything on this old truck. LOL, it took me half a day to convince him that it was leaking antifreeze from the timing chain cover and not the freeze plug that is strait behind the fuel pump on the front of the engine.
I also think I am going to have to pull the fuel pump to get the timing chain cover off, and I know the Harmonic Balancer has to come out. He thinks its just a 6 bolt deal and that will be it.
I also am betting the antifreeze has corroded the crap out of the passages on the cover. IDK, I will see in the next day or 2.
Good vid though. The Klingons would be impressed: ua-cam.com/video/_2nM6iaT2u4/v-deo.html LOL, for grins.
Thanks! Good luck on the leaks. I know it's hard to find a good mechanic. That's why I do most of the work on my cars myself. The other day I took my mom's truck to Firestone for an alignment. When it was completed I looked at the alignment printout. It was almost exactly the same before and after except for toe-in. When I asked what was up, he tried to tell me the front aligned didn't have the ability to set caster/camber so I took him out to the truck and showed him. That's when he admitted the 'regular' alignment guy was late. They gave me my 100 bucks back at least...haha.