I can't say enough how helpful this video is. I have been doing my own service on my engine for about four years now and always revert back to this video for a thing or two. I have also seen other video's of yours and then are spot on just like this one. Thank you Tyler. I really appreciate you!
Good video. Just a suggestion...Whenever I pull spark plugs, I turn them out about one or two turns. Then I use compressed air to blow out the crud that accumulates in the hollow area, around the spark plug hole, especially when plugs are oriented vertically. That way there's less chance of knocking loose crud into the cylinder when reinstalling the plugs.
Great video,,,, I use a good synthetic marine gear oil. It will take more heat and for a longer time when you forget to change it often enough. Update; 2/27/24 I went through my LU and installed the seal with the spring on the inner seal facing the oil and the outer seal facing water. Some of these units lose oil for no reason as mine did when I originally bought it used. This video shows low oil in it and what caused it to burn Black. No telling how long it was run low. Since I changed the seal I changed the oil once and it was full with clean oil. Good Luck.
Sorry, just to preface my earlier comment, new owner of 2006 Yamaha four stroke 150 and would like to do it myself. Watching your video and hope this can help me to do it myself rather than taking it somewhere to have it done ($$$$$). Thanks for your help and video.
You can’t imagine how awesome this video is, excellent footage and angles, good commentary / explanations. I was sad to see you haven’t uploaded mechanical videos for a long time, I hope all is well.
Leon Griffin I’m glad you and you’re team are well. I would love to see a video on prop shaft seals ect. We really enjoy mechanical videos and your team seems to produce them well.
Don’t EVER pull plugs out with an impact anything!!! Loosen plugs by hand ALWAYS!!! Especially if your boat has been in salt water!! Great way to strip, or break a plug that’s stuck. Bad info!!!
If you don't set the gap on the spark plug, you get what some one may have dropped on the floor, or the standard gap which might not be for your motor.
One of the best DIY videos, he shows you all the steps he talks about. I hope he makes one on how to change out the water thermostat and engine Anodes on a f225TXR. Also on how to adjust shift/throttle cables on a single shift lever.
I noticed on my Yamaha engine the filter stands up with the bottom being the part where you unscrew it. That’s different than this filter which is horizontal. I’m guessing different years of different designs. Well done video thank you.
Attempted to change the oil today and as you said, first thing out of the hole was about two table spoons of clear water and I don’t think enough oil came out compared to the other motor. Next step, get a pressure tester and see what’s going on. This will be interesting to see as it is my first time working on these engines.
I will remember to turn the wire simultaneously when undoing the fuel filter bowl so as not to damage that expensive to replace water in fuel warning device.Each job to be done was very well explained.Many thanks.
Great tutorial brother!!. I had the fuel filter electric water sensor on my 2015 Yamaha 60hp. Instead of pulling the wires off the base of the bowl, I cut the 2 harness zip ties and disconnected the wiring at the green Molex connector. Push in on the center tab and pull down. I just felt like the wires didn't want to come off the base of the bowl so I avoided that problem if the wiring broke off.
Good video, I'm just a bit taken back by the fact that 100 hours ended up with a skeg with no paint on it, corroded screws on the lower unit and black oil. That engine was ran hard with minimal maintenance, good thing you ended up working on it before it got much worse.
Just bought a 5 yr old boat with a 2015 Yamaha 300 with 85 hours on it. Guess what I am going to be doing really soon? Thanks for the very helpful easy to follow video. My only negative is that you did not show the prop attachment removal process, only you denting the prop 🤣🤣🤣🤣
If you're worried about priming the fuel to get air out of it after changing both filters just open the drain valve at the bottom of the VTS hit your primer ball several times to push fuel through after you see fuel coming out as steady stream of your VTS drain line tighten a screw back up you're good to go
I like watching videos about boats. Whats so bad about watching a video about a boat I dont have? Since you two are unfamiliar with sarcasm I shall close the register.
Absolutely PERFECT tutorial. Any chance you can provide links to the replacement parts, filters or part numbers, in the description at some point? I finally have another use for my flex funnel!!
You should inspect the fuel from the water separator by dumping it into a glass jar and check for water and debris. Also use a torque wrench when tightening gear oil drain plugs (see Owners Manual for ft lbs).
Scott wicks ehh. Need to take off the side covers yearly and use Teflon thread sealant as specified by the manufacturer. I'm not sure what else he missed. This engine also does not have pencil coils. Impact on a spark plugs even for removal is a no no... Especially if you plan to reuse them. It may be 1 out of 100, but imagine if a hairline crack develops in the ceramic of the plug. You will cause your ass and then pay a shop lots of money to find a simple problem that could have been avoided
ONE note: you use a tool to tighten the oil filter, my dad is a car mechanic, and he says, DON'T use tools; this guy IS an expert, he ONLY tightens the filter 3/4 of a turn AFTER the gasket contacts the surface of the fitting!!, if anyone tightens more the filter will break, remember the threads are only made of extruded metal, not cut into cast stock!!
Tyler, you briefly mentioned in passing while you were servicing the spark plugs in regard to their associated valves and cylinders “de carb” (de-carbonized). Would you please either explain more about that process or point me in the direction where I can get good information on the subject. After watching you and Danger Stu on UA-cam for a year or so I enrolled, part time, in a marine tech program to get some formal training (and enjoying it). As a side project in class a “customer” brought in a 2016 4 stroke Yamaha 50 for “service”. The motor is regularly used but at low speeds, it sits on a tender for a sailing club chasing dingy sailboats around the bay. Compression on the top 3 cylinders was > 200 psi. However #4 cylinder was at 125 psi. A wet compression test didn’t help any. All the spark plugs were fouled showing heavy carbon deposits. Bottom line is I don’t know about the next step regarding getting rid of the deposits-how is that done? We didn’t take it further with a leak down test to isolate where the cylinder was losing compression. I have access to Yahama’s tech manuals online through the school but do not see any information on de carbonizing, any help would be appreciated. Thank you for your time.
Thank You. Great video. Now can you do another with the boat in the water;-) ? Is it even possible? I am considering doing the loop with a boat that has outboards and can't imagine how many times I may have to do this....
very good tutorial service. thank you very much. if you happen to have a video how to replace the timing belt on that yamaha four stroke 3.3l please let me know. thanks again
You did not put any anti-seize on the spark plug threads, I know this is what Yamaha recommends but it seems counter intuitive and I would like to know why Yamaha recommends not to lube the threads. Great video, thank you!
Great video! One question......I didn't see you do anything with the water pump. I used to have a 2 stroke Mercury and I typically changed the rubber impeller every 2 to 3 years. Shouldn't this be something to do on a 4 stroke as well? Thanks again!
No way in hell would I use that impact driver on that for lower unit , Great video 👍 Yamaha all want u to squirt 3 shot of oil in each cylinder for correct pressure reading
Thanks for the great video. I noticed when you were pumping in the new gear oil that it was exiting a little chunky in the beginning. Were those air bubbles?
One thing you didn’t mention, I see my maintenance kit came with 2 gear lube bottles. I have no idea how to transfer from one to the other without losing oil
But wouldn't draining the oil from the bottom better allow for any contamination that may be in the system to drain out? Great video regardless and thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Great Video, a real confidence builder for the DIY'er. Regarding water pump replacement, I have a 2005 F150 4 Stroke--should I expect the same difficulty needing a gear puller with the shaft collar in your vid? I have had it R/R every 2 years since new.
Great Video - thanks for all your assistance. Question: for winterization, it was suggested to run an external tank with 2 gallons of gas with Yamaha Storage Fogging oil. Where do I hook up the external tank on an F200xb outboard?
i know this question is very old, but figured I'd answer for other people. The external tank attaches to the inlet of the primer bulb of the fuel line that goes into the engine.
Great video, just used it as a reference to yearly service my Yamaha 225. So glad I picked up on tilting the motor and flexible funnel, or in my case a heavy piece of cardboard, for the oil filter change. What a mess that could have been. Do you ever use any anti seize on spark plugs?
Awesome video! Have you worked on the 2016 VMAX SHO 150 at all yet? I'd love to see videos on that. I am about to do the 20hr service. I saw this 100HR video and though it was great!
At 1:22, I STRIPPED THIS SCREW. IF YOU STRIP THE SCREW BECAUSE YOU DIDNT USE A BIG ENOUGH SCREW DRIVER AND PLIER, USE A DASCO PUNCH AND HIT IT WITH A LIGHT WACK, IT WILL COME LOOSE AS A GOOSE, GOOD LUCK PEOPLE
I'm sure this has been asked , but I am just seeing this video, what is the tool that you use at 12:04 and reuse at 13:58, is that filter wrench? Way different from the car oil filter wrench I'm used to.
Good afternoon. Do you a 20hr service on the yamaha? I have a new 200hp and it's time for the 20hr service. Your videos are very detailed. If not can you tell me what I need to do?
always screw sparkplugs in with your hands due to cross threading if a spark plug does not go in? check the threads for dirt on the head and the plug. never use compressed air to clean the threads!! due to dirt contamination of the cilynder's use some tape or a tacky cloth
I can't say enough how helpful this video is. I have been doing my own service on my engine for about four years now and always revert back to this video for a thing or two. I have also seen other video's of yours and then are spot on just like this one. Thank you Tyler. I really appreciate you!
Love this video. My local Yamaha guy wanted $800 for this exact service. Thank you Marine Tech!
I bet you've have screwed up or seen someone screw up a ton to gain all of the knowledge that you are sharing. I really really appreciate it!
Good video. Just a suggestion...Whenever I pull spark plugs, I turn them out about one or two turns. Then I use compressed air to blow out the crud that accumulates in the hollow area, around the spark plug hole, especially when plugs are oriented vertically. That way there's less chance of knocking loose crud into the cylinder when reinstalling the plugs.
Great video,,,, I use a good synthetic marine gear oil. It will take more heat and for a longer time when you forget to change it often enough.
Update; 2/27/24 I went through my LU and installed the seal with the spring on the inner seal facing the oil and the outer seal facing water. Some of these units lose oil for no reason as mine did when I originally bought it used. This video shows low oil in it and what caused it to burn Black. No telling how long it was run low. Since I changed the seal I changed the oil once and it was full with clean oil. Good Luck.
Sorry, just to preface my earlier comment, new owner of 2006 Yamaha four stroke 150 and would like to do it myself. Watching your video and hope this can help me to do it myself rather than taking it somewhere to have it done ($$$$$). Thanks for your help and video.
You can’t imagine how awesome this video is, excellent footage and angles, good commentary / explanations. I was sad to see you haven’t uploaded mechanical videos for a long time, I hope all is well.
All is well, we will get back into producing the instructional videos again this year hopefully.
Leon Griffin I’m glad you and you’re team are well. I would love to see a video on prop shaft seals ect. We really enjoy mechanical videos and your team seems to produce them well.
This video was so helpful. I’m a first Time Boat owner, and fill completely comfortable with the services you taught.
Don’t EVER pull plugs out with an impact anything!!! Loosen plugs by hand ALWAYS!!! Especially if your boat has been in salt water!! Great way to strip, or break a plug that’s stuck. Bad info!!!
If you don't set the gap on the spark plug, you get what some one may have dropped on the floor, or the standard gap which might not be for your motor.
Good video. I always put a little dielectric grease on the spark plugs. They then unplug easily.
One of the best DIY videos, he shows you all the steps he talks about. I hope he makes one on how to change out the water thermostat and engine Anodes on a f225TXR. Also on how to adjust shift/throttle cables on a single shift lever.
Excellent job. I am new to boat maintenance and now I think I can easily handle it because of you sharing your expertise. 😊
Who the F would give a thumbs down? This was so educational and informative. Nice job! I should’ve searched this years ago! Dang it
Mechanics
And haters
Probably a mechanic tryna charge $600 for the same service.
This was a great information video. No fluff or bs and all important info. Thanks!
I noticed on my Yamaha engine the filter stands up with the bottom being the part where you unscrew it. That’s different than this filter which is horizontal. I’m guessing different years of different designs. Well done video thank you.
Attempted to change the oil today and as you said, first thing out of the hole was about two table spoons of clear water and I don’t think enough oil came out compared to the other motor. Next step, get a pressure tester and see what’s going on. This will be interesting to see as it is my first time working on these engines.
I will remember to turn the wire simultaneously when undoing the fuel filter bowl so as not to damage that expensive to replace water in fuel warning device.Each job to be done was very well explained.Many thanks.
Great tutorial brother!!. I had the fuel filter electric water sensor on my 2015 Yamaha 60hp. Instead of pulling the wires off the base of the bowl, I cut the 2 harness zip ties and disconnected the wiring at the green Molex connector. Push in on the center tab and pull down. I just felt like the wires didn't want to come off the base of the bowl so I avoided that problem if the wiring broke off.
This is an awesome video. Thank you for going into such detail... you just saved me about $300
Thanks man. 1st time boat owner and I changed out my impeller with your guidance. Now I'm going to try this. Thanks bro
Good video, I'm just a bit taken back by the fact that 100 hours ended up with a skeg with no paint on it, corroded screws on the lower unit and black oil. That engine was ran hard with minimal maintenance, good thing you ended up working on it before it got much worse.
Bob Wilson 100 hr service means every 100 hours, not necessarily the first 100 hrs
The manual impact driver is an underappreciated tool, better used early to avoid stripped heads.
& the sliding spLïT, [fLat-enD] screw driver😉👌🏻
To avoid water intrusion, replace the lower case drain bolt gasket/seal every time.
I've always put pipe tape on the bolt and never had a leak.......
@@nobody46820 tape not necessary... just new washers
@@milkylicker6963 Roger, just thinking if you didn't have new washers. I would use new washers if possible.
Just bought a 5 yr old boat with a 2015 Yamaha 300 with 85 hours on it. Guess what I am going to be doing really soon? Thanks for the very helpful easy to follow video. My only negative is that you did not show the prop attachment removal process, only you denting the prop 🤣🤣🤣🤣
If you're worried about priming the fuel to get air out of it after changing both filters just open the drain valve at the bottom of the VTS hit your primer ball several times to push fuel through after you see fuel coming out as steady stream of your VTS drain line tighten a screw back up you're good to go
Nice informative video.
I'm going to now be able to do a good service on my new engine.
Thanks for a great video
Great video, thanks! I have the same engine on my boat here in Australia. Very helpful
Extremely helpful video! Was able to do the 100 hour easy myself. Thanks!
22 minutes in and I realized I have a volvo penta lol. Great video though thanks for sharing.
Jim jimmy jam dang you must be a real dumb ass!
That's like saying 22 minutes in and you've realised you've got a YAMAHA TRAIL BIKE INSTEAD OF A YAMAHA OUTBOARD MARINE ENGINE!
I like watching videos about boats. Whats so bad about watching a video about a boat I dont have? Since you two are unfamiliar with sarcasm I shall close the register.
Excellent video and great job on tutorial. Fantastic workmanship. Would take my boat to you.
Good to watch competent man at work.. thanks
Absolutely PERFECT tutorial. Any chance you can provide links to the replacement parts, filters or part numbers, in the description at some point? I finally have another use for my flex funnel!!
Nice video but I'm a little surprised you didn't check the spark plug gap before installing the new plugs.
You should inspect the fuel from the water separator by dumping it into a glass jar and check for water and debris. Also use a torque wrench when tightening gear oil drain plugs (see Owners Manual for ft lbs).
Thank you sir! Just completed 100 hr service in a F300xcr
Thank you sincerely for the effort that went into this 🙏
Glad you enjoyed it!, check out our Contender Project for more current content.
You do an amazing job with these videos and I really appreciate them. Do you have a 500 hour service video?
This is an awesome video--thanks so much for posting it!
If you ever have a chance - could you post a video on thermostats change on the same motor? That would be awesome!!!
Thank that was good I did not think about the possibility of line around the prop shaft blessings
THANK YOU! Gave me confidence to do it myself the right way
Scott wicks ehh. Need to take off the side covers yearly and use Teflon thread sealant as specified by the manufacturer. I'm not sure what else he missed. This engine also does not have pencil coils. Impact on a spark plugs even for removal is a no no... Especially if you plan to reuse them. It may be 1 out of 100, but imagine if a hairline crack develops in the ceramic of the plug. You will cause your ass and then pay a shop lots of money to find a simple problem that could have been avoided
Great video. Good advice on the fuel filter (o-ring).
Great video! been looking for something like this for a while. Thank you.
+Michael Perez You are welcome, keep an eye out for our other videos. We are putting these out as fast as we can.
Thank you. My new favourite marine Chanel
ONE note: you use a tool to tighten the oil filter, my dad is a car mechanic, and he says, DON'T use tools; this guy IS an expert, he ONLY tightens the filter 3/4 of a turn AFTER the gasket contacts the surface of the fitting!!, if anyone tightens more the filter will break, remember the threads are only made of extruded metal, not cut into cast stock!!
Tyler, you briefly mentioned in passing while you were servicing the spark plugs in regard to their associated valves and cylinders “de carb” (de-carbonized). Would you please either explain more about that process or point me in the direction where I can get good information on the subject. After watching you and Danger Stu on UA-cam for a year or so I enrolled, part time, in a marine tech program to get some formal training (and enjoying it). As a side project in class a “customer” brought in a 2016 4 stroke Yamaha 50 for “service”. The motor is regularly used but at low speeds, it sits on a tender for a sailing club chasing dingy sailboats around the bay. Compression on the top 3 cylinders was > 200 psi. However #4 cylinder was at 125 psi. A wet compression test didn’t help any. All the spark plugs were fouled showing heavy carbon deposits. Bottom line is I don’t know about the next step regarding getting rid of the deposits-how is that done? We didn’t take it further with a leak down test to isolate where the cylinder was losing compression. I have access to Yahama’s tech manuals online through the school but do not see any information on de carbonizing, any help would be appreciated.
Thank you for your time.
Can you please supply all tools and other gear to buy for this?
Thank You. Great video. Now can you do another with the boat in the water;-) ? Is it even possible? I am considering doing the loop with a boat that has outboards and can't imagine how many times I may have to do this....
Best video on this subject. Very helpful thanks!
very good tutorial service. thank you very much. if you happen to have a video how to replace the timing belt on that yamaha four stroke 3.3l please let me know. thanks again
You did not put any anti-seize on the spark plug threads, I know this is what Yamaha recommends but it seems counter intuitive and I would like to know why Yamaha recommends not to lube the threads. Great video, thank you!
To hell with what Yamaha says on this issue, let them get out in the heat and change out the plugs for free if there're so damn confident.
Put a drop of oil on threads.
@@milkylicker6963 Wouldn't the oil coke up and harden the plug in place?
@@nobody46820 I have changed a thousand spark plugs on these 4 strokes and I find a drop o 4 stroke oil works great.
@@milkylicker6963 Nice, good to know and hear from a professional, thanks for the reply!😀👍🏻
Great video! One question......I didn't see you do anything with the water pump. I used to have a 2 stroke Mercury and I typically changed the rubber impeller every 2 to 3 years. Shouldn't this be something to do on a 4 stroke as well? Thanks again!
Very nice, clear description, with some extra tips. Thanks
No way in hell would I use that impact driver on that for lower unit ,
Great video 👍
Yamaha all want u to squirt 3 shot of oil in each cylinder for correct pressure reading
Great video Thank you for doing this for us! Much appreciated!!
Thanks for the great video.
I noticed when you were pumping in the new gear oil that it was exiting a little chunky in the beginning.
Were those air bubbles?
Learning boat repair, great video. Thanks for posting. Subbed
Thank you. Excellent video, great help. Subbed!!
awesome video bro! helped me big time
One thing you didn’t mention, I see my maintenance kit came with 2 gear lube bottles. I have no idea how to transfer from one to the other without losing oil
But wouldn't draining the oil from the bottom better allow for any contamination that may be in the system to drain out? Great video regardless and thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks, Thorough and lots of good tips.
I've been a technician for over 20 years and I would never use a impact gun on any spark plug that might be reinstalled you will fracture the plug.
Excellent video!! Thank you for the education
Great Video, a real confidence builder for the DIY'er. Regarding water pump replacement, I have a 2005 F150 4 Stroke--should I expect the same difficulty needing a gear puller with the shaft collar in your vid? I have had it R/R every 2 years since new.
Great video, I have the same engine, I am looking for one showing the location of the O2 sensor on this, can't seem to find it.
Good idea using grease on the bolt threads, but why no form on anti-seize on the spark plug threads?
Thanks for sharing. Very informative.
Genius little tricks like the flex funnel ty
Great Video - thanks for all your assistance. Question: for winterization, it was suggested to run an external tank with 2 gallons of gas with Yamaha Storage Fogging oil. Where do I hook up the external tank on an F200xb outboard?
i know this question is very old, but figured I'd answer for other people. The external tank attaches to the inlet of the primer bulb of the fuel line that goes into the engine.
Great video, just used it as a reference to yearly service my Yamaha 225. So glad I picked up on tilting the motor and flexible funnel, or in my case a heavy piece of cardboard, for the oil filter change. What a mess that could have been. Do you ever use any anti seize on spark plugs?
great video! Just got to say the only person that breathes louder than this guy is my dad lol
Great information how about a 40 HP electric start
at what point do you replace the water pump impellor? Great informative video.
Thank you for tour superb video!
What size of wrench do you use for the oilfilter? 68mm?
I always pull the fill first just incase had one that was stuck couldn't fill once drained
Nicely done. Thanks for sharing!
Looking to see how to remove the oil filter in a Yamaha 350. Any video? Thanks.
Awesome video! Have you worked on the 2016 VMAX SHO 150 at all yet? I'd love to see videos on that. I am about to do the 20hr service. I saw this 100HR video and though it was great!
Great tip throttle open and kill switch engaged for checking compression
BEST VIDEO EVER!
Great Video. Do you have a list of tools you use?
At 1:22, I STRIPPED THIS SCREW. IF YOU STRIP THE SCREW BECAUSE YOU DIDNT USE A BIG ENOUGH SCREW DRIVER AND PLIER, USE A DASCO PUNCH AND HIT IT WITH A LIGHT WACK, IT WILL COME LOOSE AS A GOOSE, GOOD LUCK PEOPLE
Great video, very helpful thanks
Good vid but wondering about impeller?
I'm sure this has been asked , but I am just seeing this video, what is the tool that you use at 12:04 and reuse at 13:58, is that filter wrench? Way different from the car oil filter wrench I'm used to.
Not different at all. Standard filter wrench, cross reference your filter to get the right diameter and flats.
and now you will be showing how to change a water pump, after the first time you turned it over with no water it was done.
How often do you replace the water pump? I thought that was part of annual maintenance. Thanks!
Nice demo, Thanks for you help. Makes my life a whole lot easier. Great job.
great lesson .
thank you very much .
That was awesome. Thank you. Well articulated and detailed do's and don'ts.
Excellent video! Very clear and well done! Thanks
Try to tilt up your motor when you go over shallow places
Awesome vid! Are you using the Yamalube Silicone Lubricant and Protectant or the Rust and Corrosion spray? Both indicate high flammability?
How important is the zerk on the lower unit, near the prop & carrier? I didn't see that you mentioned it. F250 question.
Good afternoon.
Do you a 20hr service on the yamaha?
I have a new 200hp and it's time for the 20hr service.
Your videos are very detailed.
If not can you tell me what I need to do?
always screw sparkplugs in with your hands due to cross threading if a spark plug does not go in? check the threads for dirt on the head and the plug. never use compressed air to clean the threads!! due to dirt contamination of the cilynder's use some tape or a tacky cloth
Awesome video helped me clear some problems I've been having not to mention saving $$$, Thanks from Fish_D_HOOK_N_COOK
your videos are great
Excellent video!