I own that motor; same year and everything. Those older 2 stroke Yamahas are friggin bullet proof. I let one sit on a stand for a little over two years. Did nothing to it and It started on 2nd key turn, idled and ran like it had been tuned and used every day. Gotta love Yamaha reliability.
About the only weak point is the carbs. They will cause you problems if you mistreat them, but use good fuel and keep up with your filters they are nice.
You need to upgrade to a modern 4 stroke. If you thought that old 2 stroke was reliable you will LOVE the newer 4 stroke engines. It’s like night and day.
Had a 98 Yamaha 200HP 2 Stroke. Best F-ing boat motor I ever had. Power all day long and never gave me a hint of trouble. I ran in Salt Water using it on a Crab Skiff. Actual working boat, not a pleasure Crusier. Sold it to a guy in 2011. Talked to him about 3 months ago. Damn thing is still running strong.
I have a 2003 Yamaha 90 TLRB. Runs like a top! Had a fellow tell me one time that if you want to get there fast put a Mercury on it. If you want to get home put a Yamaha on it.
Just saw this video, funny I just bought a boat that has been sitting 16 years and has a 1991 Johnson 150hp V6. I fitted a new impeller, drained all six carbs, pumped fresh fuel through. Fitted the drain bungs back in the carbs. It fired straight away and after the temp came up it sat there idling sweet. I didn't have to adjust a thing. Very happy, being a mechanic you really don't want to be working on your own gear😂.
The video i was looking for ! Have a 4 stroke yamaha (selva) 8hp that has not been used for 8 years, just sitting on the transom. Will need to re vitalize it coming weekend. Will follow these procedure myself, thank you for sharing the knowledge
Agreed -back in the 90's I had a Yamaha 30 horse 2 stroke. Zero trouble ever. Bullet proof. Would love to get one again -although.. I'd be interested to check out 4 stroke...
These videos are awesome! No BS. Thank you. I have an 06 model of the same engine and have learned a ton of new things That I probably should've been doing over the years..
When you spray fuel into the carbs.i was expecting backfire from carbs.Happened to me few times.Just stay away from carbs.I love your videos so many things learned from them!
Its a YAMAHA, it will go. Glad you have the same engine, if i have any questions ill review your videos. Excellent videos as usual. Glad my boat has never seen salt water or the engine either. Its nice to not have to break parts just to loosen them.
I'm Im two mins into your video. I have owned a small engine show for years, we deal with seasonal engines all the time (UP NORTH). Clean fuel, carbs cleaned with main jets as well, i normally hot tank carbs after disassembly and fresh carb kits, fresh plugs all lube(s) changed, thermostat, full flush of all systems and a good mouse wire inspection. At that point you have gone throughout the system/engine and would have seen anything out of the ordinary, removed bad fluids and caught carb issues with fresh gas as well. Preventive maintenance goes a long way. Great videos in all that I've seen.
I have a Key West 1720 with the Evinrude E Tec 90. Great boat. Love to find one of the Yamaha 90 HP two stroke as a spare now that Evinrude is no more. Although I just fully serviced the E Tec and it runs fine. I have always heard the Yamaha is a bulletproof motor.
At that point upgrade to a Yamaha 115 4 stroke. Why would you waste money on another 2 stroke? They’re obsolete and nobody makes parts for them anymore.
@@UltraMagaFan maybe for Yamaha. I have 5 old omc motors ranging from a 78 9.9 to an 98 ocean pro 115, and I have never once found a part that was hard to come across. Granted it will change in the next 10-15 years because of people like me who buy spare parts when I don’t need them. Better to have it and not need it though right.
@@raymaywether5876 In 20 years the only parts you’ll be able to buy for those motors are parts made by CDI because it’s a separate company that’s still in buisness.
When you cold start push the key assembly in before turning, the solenoid to the chokes activates which in turn will cause a rich mix to fire up mama, not too many people know that - your welcome
I like there simplicity not much goes bad on 20 plus years. It had 85 psi in 2 cly still ran smoked like cooker so I shipped the powerhead off at 64 years old. I can manage getting the top off about 8 wires and took pics of the linkage the shift lever was a little tricky but I figured out the position it’s why some folks put them in reverse then pull the top off
Yup it'll start (and run) if you change the plugs, put a new fuel feed diaphragm in, wash out the carbs with Berryman B-12 spray, put in fresh fuel, prime it, turn on the choke and hit the starter! There's almost NOTHING to go wrong with a '80's-'05 two-stroke. One of my motorcycle buddies has a 1972 Suzuki GT-750(S) "Water Buffalo" two-stroke cycle with 415,000+ miles on it and it's all original except for the battery and MANY sets of tubes/tires. He rode it 80-odd miles round trip to work ice or snow, rain or shine, until he retired a dozen years ago.
My buddy who has these engines swears by taking out the oil pump and the canister and pre- mixing the gas at the dock. Otherwise the pump eventually go out and the engine burns.
This!! I know plenty of people that have blown a motor because of those stupid oil mixing systems. There’s a reason they make a conversion kit for all of them.
One thing I noticed maybe you did it off camera, but I always check the oil tanks for water in them. Had a coustmer once acquired a storm boat. Got the engine running failed to check the oil tank. Was half full with water and oil. Destroyed the engine running a few minutes with no lubrication
Great video!!! Can you elaborate on the manual red switch? Like what position it should be in, my doesn't want to start unless that seat back ( because it looks like a seat) ,the piece you broke off, is in the 3 oclock position. I t seems that it has tree positions: straight 12, 3 and 6 oclock
Thanks for all the videos you doing to help! :) Question, what would be expected lifetime (hours) for 2006 F60, freshwater never abused, well maintained? Thanks
Just use a tote tank with known good fuel.....and always when starting a 2 stroke after many years mix the right ratio of oil straight into the fuel...just in case the oil pump (VRO) is locked up or gummed up. Then when the engine is running you can check the VRO output at your leisure. Squirting raw fuel in is looking to ruin bearings.. and running however briefly without water to the water impellor is looking to distribute pieces of rubber through the heads/block. Starting and running without complete disassembly and ultrasonic cleaning of the carbs and bowls is also reckless... plus not checking/replacing the thermostat...ditto..... There is the right way to recommission an engine...and your way.
That is a tank (white translucent plastic) of blue TCW3 oil ion the side of the powerhead... oil which is injected via the variable ratio oil pump..... dependent of throttle position and varying the mix from 200:1 at idle (no smoke) down to ? 20:1 at WOT.... That's what makes it a 2 stroke...... If that VRO is gummed up or non functional lubricating the engine depends on mixing the oil with the fuel at say 50:1 BEFORE you feed it to the carbs..... so it lubricates the bearings... Raw fuel without oil is NOT a good lubricant...so the bearings wear and seize... @@robertp7209
Open the throttle and the choke and spray your lubricant through the intake to lubricate the bottom of the piston, rods, crank, etc. Not just the top of the cylinder.
Why would you try to start a motor with old fuel. If a boats been sitting for any length of time you must drain the fuel and clean the tank. Then if it’s a Yamaha you must always clean the carbs. Yamaha motors are fantastic motors but they must have clean carbs on the old 2 strokes.
I don't know why , my mechanics never want to use their gas tanks to test run no matter how many hundred dollars they are going to charge for the repair. "Did you bring fuel?" Is the first thing they ask They don't want to spend half a dollar for the gas...
I would have just pulled the carb's from the get go. Strip, ultrasonic in solvent, air blast reassemble, set idle mixture screws to spec and synchronize. Messing about with gummed up carbs is a waste of time. Only one carb has a thermo enrichment device on these. Usually trouble free if clean. They do operate of the AC side of the charge circuit from memory which is why they need a bit of a spin to start from cold. After the first start of the day things are sweet. Brilliant engine. Simple, reliable and easy to tune and work on. They even have a back up ignition circuit but I've yet to see one that ever needed it.
I have the 2007 model Yamaha 115 2 stroke it runs great I start it on the hose every few days then I'm not using it but I still take it out 2 or 3 times a month I heard them 2 strokes don't like to sit so I keep mine ran always
Looks like you got yourself a good engine there. Squirting fuel in the direction of carbs (instead of directly into the carbs' throaths) is a dangerous practice and could easily start a fire in the presence of that possibly sparking starter. Better use any apray can lubricant, what you used in the cylinders will do, and spray it directly in the throats. Ether starting fluid is not to be used in a 2-stroke engine as it will wash off the cylinder walls. Look for a lot of smoke upon start-up. Regards !
Great video. Word to the wise: WD-40 is a TERRIBLE lubricant. It contains Water Displacement (hence the name) solvents. It's a good cleaner above all else.
My 2009 50 Merc 2 stroke had the throttle plates open and I didn’t notice it and I started the motor , it revved up so fast and wouldn’t shut off. Eventually it ran itself out of fuel
Another factor is it’s the same weight as a 70 4 stroke so that’s 20 hp more at 250 lbs I thought of a 4 stroke but.my 60 lasted this long a 90 would probably get me 40 mph plus on a 17’ jon boat
Posted you about Yamaha sending me a 4 cycle 70hp - they never called, so I have another idea. I'll send down my 1977 Johnson 85hp, as a demo for a video - new harness, coils, fuel pump & lines - anything it needs - I'll buy all the part from you and then say thank you - either that or I'll do it myself. Thanks as always for your videos and time.
May 8 2024 I need some help . I have a 1993 Yamaha 2 stroke 30 hp. 3 cylinder 3 carbs. It runs only with choke on when I push choke in it wants to die .
Could not agree with you more sir! The way I look at it if I have to put a computer on it to tell me which module is bad I really don't want anything to do with it. In the immortal words of the Starship Enterprise Chief Engineer Montgomery Scott : " The more complicated the plumbing the easier it is to clog up the drain."
Working on older outboards should NEVER be attempted without a jug of hot coffee and a box of doughnuts (its in the rule book). Seriously, that was a very good demonstration of following procedures for diagnosis in logical order.
I thought your weren't supposed to start an outboard with just using the Wash out port. And I would have just tossed all that fuel. (I know u were just seeing if it ran lol)
Watched someone get their entire upper body burned from doing your "squirt gas while cranking" move. Engine backfired, bottle caught on fire he tried to throw it away and it bounced back on him. Really bad move squirting fuel while cranking. Squirt some into the throat, set bottle down then crank.
There should be a smallish clear pvc tube that runs from your yamaha gauge to the engine check to see where that tube runs see if it's pinched near the gauge or along the length of the boat, at the engine it runs down the front of the bracket, as mine did it can get pinched when tilting up and down over the years can even rip a hole in it just before it enters the bottom leg it joins to another tube mine is black with a plastic hose joiner sometimes that can separate if it is just plug it in again and use smallest thinnest cable tie to secure it as if it has come apart there it will come apart again easily, it works from a little hole in front of the gear case (around the torpedo shaped part) facing towards the front of boat by water pressure entering this hole giving it a speed value on the gauge it too can get blocked by debris use sewing pin or something similar to clear but don't push in too much as you can damage the tube its a pretty easy fix unless you have faulty gauge hope it helps....
Just constantly working on boats, I've worked on thousands of boats over the past 13 years :/ lol if you'd want to learn this kind of stuff though, I put virtually everything I know into courses that you can learn at a super fast rate for really cheap in our Boater's Program here: www.bornagainboating.com/
Who else here knew just from looking at the gas that is was no bueno? I usually dip my needle nose in it and set it on fire and observe the flame, or in this case probably wouldn’t burn. I wonder how he performs the synch and link after the carbs rebuild…
I don’t need to watch this video to know that you can fire that thing up right away with fresh oil and fuel. As long as the fuel was drained out of the carbs, or if it was ran dry at idle before being put away.
I beat a 2 stroke, 150 Johnson to death for 8 years. It still ran great when i sold it. I now have a 2022 Yamaha 250 4 stroke. Its nice but its nothing special. $875 oil changes arent really fun and it vibrates at idle speed
I would not recommend using a water bottle a squirting fuel like this into the carburetors and throwing it all over in the engine. One backfire and you could blow yourself up you have fuel and ignition aka spark right there not very smart.
I am starting to believe the old story that Yamaha were inspired by OMC engines, particularly the triples. It is almost identical under there to my mid 80s 70hp. I wish I could get my hands on a set of those carbs, which I think would just bolt up and which I believe were a weak point for OMC - poor design and cheap build e.g. air bleed idle circuit and no throttle shaft bushings meant excessive wear, no fuel pulled up via the low circuit and the infamous mid-range acceleration bog which everyone chases at one point or another.
Somebody tried to fix a poor idling condition with the carb idle screw instead of the timing , then carbs need to be cleaned , the first 10% or so of throttle is done with the timing not the carbs
I have the exact same outboard. Im assuming you're saying the idle screw should be set to completely closed and you should advance the idle timing to the desired rpms? And if so then what is the point of having that idle screw?
I own that motor; same year and everything. Those older 2 stroke Yamahas are friggin bullet proof. I let one sit on a stand for a little over two years. Did nothing to it and It started on 2nd key turn, idled and ran like it had been tuned and used every day. Gotta love Yamaha reliability.
About the only weak point is the carbs. They will cause you problems if you mistreat them, but use good fuel and keep up with your filters they are nice.
you are telling the truth. that dang fuel pump is a pain also, but if you stay on top of it all its an awesome motor @@danieln3999
You need to upgrade to a modern 4 stroke. If you thought that old 2 stroke was reliable you will LOVE the newer 4 stroke engines. It’s like night and day.
@@eugeneweeks3325 I'm so lucky to have you to tell me what I need. How did I make it to 57 without you?
Sadly you will eventually have to change the battery every 10 years if it's a really good quality one, just letting you know
Coming from a new boat owner that wants to learn how to DIY their used boat, you are a hero. Keep being amazing...
Had a 98 Yamaha 200HP 2 Stroke.
Best F-ing boat motor I ever had. Power all day long and never gave me a hint of trouble.
I ran in Salt Water using it on a Crab Skiff. Actual working boat, not a pleasure
Crusier.
Sold it to a guy in 2011.
Talked to him about 3 months ago. Damn thing is still running strong.
Why wouldn't you just use a portable tank with fresh fuel?? Instead of using that contaminated old stuff?
I have a 2003 Yamaha 90 TLRB. Runs like a top! Had a fellow tell me one time that if you want to get there fast put a Mercury on it. If you want to get home put a Yamaha on it.
my 01 mercury 90hp 2stroke left in middle of ocean for 2 days luckily game warden show up for my rescue
Just saw this video, funny I just bought a boat that has been sitting 16 years and has a 1991 Johnson 150hp V6.
I fitted a new impeller, drained all six carbs, pumped fresh fuel through. Fitted the drain bungs back in the carbs.
It fired straight away and after the temp came up it sat there idling sweet.
I didn't have to adjust a thing.
Very happy, being a mechanic you really don't want to be working on your own gear😂.
Please don't forget about the thermostats, my body did all that to his and eventually the engine burned when the thermostats got stuck closed.
Just did the same thing. 03 merc, sat for 5 years…picked it up cheap. Did a full service…DIY and it runs perfectly
The video i was looking for ! Have a 4 stroke yamaha (selva) 8hp that has not been used for 8 years, just sitting on the transom. Will need to re vitalize it coming weekend. Will follow these procedure myself, thank you for sharing the knowledge
Always a good feeling when you get a motor running after sitting around for years. 👌🏼
Agreed -back in the 90's I had a Yamaha 30 horse 2 stroke. Zero trouble ever. Bullet proof. Would love to get one again -although.. I'd be interested to check out 4 stroke...
Seeing it’s a Yam 90 2 stroke, I wouldn’t be surprised if it was sitting for 20 years and started.
How about a V6 250?
These videos are awesome! No BS. Thank you. I have an 06 model of the same engine and have learned a ton of new things That I probably should've been doing over the years..
I had to build up Yamaha V6 2-stroke I miss that thing what a monster it was on my 17 foot bass boat got up 70 without a problem
When you spray fuel into the carbs.i was expecting backfire from carbs.Happened to me few times.Just stay away from carbs.I love your videos so many things learned from them!
Its a YAMAHA, it will go. Glad you have the same engine, if i have any questions ill review your videos. Excellent videos as usual. Glad my boat has never seen salt water or the engine either. Its nice to not have to break parts just to loosen them.
I'm Im two mins into your video. I have owned a small engine show for years, we deal with seasonal engines all the time (UP NORTH). Clean fuel, carbs cleaned with main jets as well, i normally hot tank carbs after disassembly and fresh carb kits, fresh plugs all lube(s) changed, thermostat, full flush of all systems and a good mouse wire inspection. At that point you have gone throughout the system/engine and would have seen anything out of the ordinary, removed bad fluids and caught carb issues with fresh gas as well. Preventive maintenance goes a long way. Great videos in all that I've seen.
That is incredible PM and I can say with certainty that that you are either single or have been married less than 3 years 😂
I have a Key West 1720 with the Evinrude E Tec 90. Great boat. Love to find one of the Yamaha 90 HP two stroke as a spare now that Evinrude is no more. Although I just fully serviced the E Tec and it runs fine. I have always heard the Yamaha is a bulletproof motor.
At that point upgrade to a Yamaha 115 4 stroke. Why would you waste money on another 2 stroke? They’re obsolete and nobody makes parts for them anymore.
@@UltraMagaFan maybe for Yamaha. I have 5 old omc motors ranging from a 78 9.9 to an 98 ocean pro 115, and I have never once found a part that was hard to come across. Granted it will change in the next 10-15 years because of people like me who buy spare parts when I don’t need them. Better to have it and not need it though right.
@@raymaywether5876 In 20 years the only parts you’ll be able to buy for those motors are parts made by CDI because it’s a separate company that’s still in buisness.
Sad deal w evenrude always the best tiller motors out there old trout fisherman evenrude in the 70 /80 s was the best
I have a 2004 90 Yamaha. Thing is a beast. Just give them a little love.
Milwaukee transfer pump works great for this with a cut rubber washing machine hose.
Great to see you getting it running. Video was helpful for me to watch. Love old 2 strokes!
Compression check ?
When you cold start push the key assembly in before turning, the solenoid to the chokes activates which in turn will cause a rich mix to fire up mama, not too many people know that - your welcome
Those Yamaha 2 stroke engines are technically outdated but also incredibly durable and reliable.
I like there simplicity not much goes bad on 20 plus years. It had 85 psi in 2 cly still ran smoked like cooker so I shipped the powerhead off at 64 years old. I can manage getting the top off about 8 wires and took pics of the linkage the shift lever was a little tricky but I figured out the position it’s why some folks put them in reverse then pull the top off
You need to purge the oil tankand system. Water isn't much of a lubricant and don't forget the main cank shaft bearings.
Good video for the first 2 stroke motor owner . God bless you.
Thank you! You Too!
I have heard that you should always ground the CDI system when turning over - so the spark can get to ground.
You can do that
Of course it will run. Great motors. Clean the coil contacts. Lube and fire up. Great skiff. Motors. 😊
Those engines are so much fun at the dock when they first turn on, no mosquitoes. No noseeums for miles.
You got that thing running good, people will fight over those older small 2 strokes
Facts!
Those are great motors really simple to work on . Coils and cards
So impressed about your work! So outstanding gentleman! 👏 ❤ Keep up the good work! Peace ✌️
Yup it'll start (and run) if you change the plugs, put a new fuel feed diaphragm in, wash out the carbs with Berryman B-12 spray, put in fresh fuel, prime it, turn on the choke and hit the starter! There's almost NOTHING to go wrong with a '80's-'05 two-stroke. One of my motorcycle buddies has a 1972 Suzuki GT-750(S) "Water Buffalo" two-stroke cycle with 415,000+ miles on it and it's all original except for the battery and MANY sets of tubes/tires. He rode it 80-odd miles round trip to work ice or snow, rain or shine, until he retired a dozen years ago.
My buddy who has these engines swears by taking out the oil pump and the canister and pre- mixing the gas at the dock. Otherwise the pump eventually go out and the engine burns.
This!! I know plenty of people that have blown a motor because of those stupid oil mixing systems. There’s a reason they make a conversion kit for all of them.
One thing I noticed maybe you did it off camera, but I always check the oil tanks for water in them. Had a coustmer once acquired a storm boat. Got the engine running failed to check the oil tank. Was half full with water and oil. Destroyed the engine running a few minutes with no lubrication
Great video!!! Can you elaborate on the manual red switch? Like what position it should be in, my doesn't want to start unless that seat back ( because it looks like a seat) ,the piece you broke off, is in the 3 oclock position. I t seems that it has tree positions: straight 12, 3 and 6 oclock
Great video, straight to the point,great how to information. Thank You!
I have a 2006. The enrichener wax solenoid is a pain. Had to replace it and still have to manual override if it sits a long time.
Thanks for all the videos you doing to help! :)
Question, what would be expected lifetime (hours) for 2006 F60, freshwater never abused, well maintained? Thanks
500
500 before something happens then every 500-1000 usually seen 20 years and not have 2,000 hrs on them
Just use a tote tank with known good fuel.....and always when starting a 2 stroke after many years mix the right ratio of oil straight into the fuel...just in case the oil pump (VRO) is locked up or gummed up.
Then when the engine is running you can check the VRO output at your leisure.
Squirting raw fuel in is looking to ruin bearings..
and running however briefly without water to the water impellor is looking to distribute pieces of rubber through the heads/block.
Starting and running without complete disassembly and ultrasonic cleaning of the carbs and bowls is also reckless...
plus not checking/replacing the thermostat...ditto.....
There is the right way to recommission an engine...and your way.
It doesn’t have a VRO type pump.
That is a tank (white translucent plastic) of blue TCW3 oil ion the side of the powerhead...
oil which is injected via the variable ratio oil pump.....
dependent of throttle position and varying the mix from 200:1 at idle (no smoke) down to ? 20:1 at WOT....
That's what makes it a 2 stroke......
If that VRO is gummed up or non functional lubricating the engine depends on mixing the oil with the fuel at say 50:1 BEFORE you feed it to the carbs.....
so it lubricates the bearings...
Raw fuel without oil is NOT a good lubricant...so the bearings wear and seize...
@@robertp7209
Open the throttle and the choke and spray your lubricant through the intake to lubricate the bottom of the piston, rods, crank, etc. Not just the top of the cylinder.
Just hand turn the assembly, if it moves you’re good. Don’t cause a detonation doing stupid shit.
I had this same motor rebuilt it but loved it ❤
Why would you try to start a motor with old fuel. If a boats been sitting for any length of time you must drain the fuel and clean the tank. Then if it’s a Yamaha you must always clean the carbs. Yamaha motors are fantastic motors but they must have clean carbs on the old 2 strokes.
I don't know why , my mechanics never want to use their gas tanks to test run no matter how many hundred dollars they are going to charge for the repair. "Did you bring fuel?" Is the first thing they ask
They don't want to spend half a dollar for the gas...
What happens if carbs not cleaned?
Now you tell me
I would have just pulled the carb's from the get go. Strip, ultrasonic in solvent, air blast reassemble, set idle mixture screws to spec and synchronize. Messing about with gummed up carbs is a waste of time. Only one carb has a thermo enrichment device on these. Usually trouble free if clean. They do operate of the AC side of the charge circuit from memory which is why they need a bit of a spin to start from cold. After the first start of the day things are sweet.
Brilliant engine. Simple, reliable and easy to tune and work on. They even have a back up ignition circuit but I've yet to see one that ever needed it.
I have the 2007 model Yamaha 115 2 stroke it runs great I start it on the hose every few days then I'm not using it but I still take it out 2 or 3 times a month I heard them 2 strokes don't like to sit so I keep mine ran always
There's no need to start them every few days. It won't hurt anything, but no need. Just don't let fuel with ethanol sit in engine.
I believe when you put it in gear it allows you to use the Full Throttle I think that's a safety feature you are fighting
Good job! 2 strokes are tanks for sure.
Looks like you got yourself a good engine there. Squirting fuel in the direction of carbs (instead of directly into the carbs' throaths) is a dangerous practice and could easily start a fire in the presence of that possibly sparking starter. Better use any apray can lubricant, what you used in the cylinders will do, and spray it directly in the throats. Ether starting fluid is not to be used in a 2-stroke engine as it will wash off the cylinder walls. Look for a lot of smoke upon start-up. Regards !
that sound and smoke is so refreshing to hear and watch in winter)
Greatest outboard motor ever made
The 2004 one?
Is this a new boat project like the ocean runner or is this just work for a customer?
Great video. Word to the wise: WD-40 is a TERRIBLE lubricant. It contains Water Displacement (hence the name) solvents. It's a good cleaner above all else.
Put the engine in forward gear and trottle will open fully.
My 2009 50 Merc 2 stroke had the throttle plates open and I didn’t notice it and I started the motor , it revved up so fast and wouldn’t shut off. Eventually it ran itself out of fuel
Surprised he didn’t just bring a can of new, clean fuel to run the motor off of instead of pushing that old fuel through the system for the first run.
I’ve got the same but a 60 irs 22 years old rebuilt powerhead 2 years ago still rock n
Another factor is it’s the same weight as a 70 4 stroke so that’s 20 hp more at 250 lbs I thought of a 4 stroke but.my 60 lasted this long a 90 would probably get me 40 mph plus on a 17’ jon boat
Posted you about Yamaha sending me a 4 cycle 70hp - they never called, so I have another idea. I'll send down my 1977 Johnson 85hp, as a demo for a video - new harness, coils, fuel pump & lines - anything it needs - I'll buy all the part from you and then say thank you - either that or I'll do it myself. Thanks as always for your videos and time.
That Johnson know Suzuki is a great motor once done. Not much can go wrong
May 8 2024 I need some help . I have a 1993 Yamaha 2 stroke 30 hp. 3 cylinder 3 carbs. It runs only with choke on when I push choke in it wants to die .
Something with the carbs, they need cleaned and maybe some jets messed with
Gotta love 2 stroke videos 👌💪
How often do people have to change their fuel regulator do you change it like you did the oil in your car or truck
those are one of the best motors yamaha has ever made
The 90s? How about V6 250s?
Love these DIY videos, I think so many boaters are DIY guys and don't care for boating with the latest and greatest boating BS.
Could not agree with you more sir! The way I look at it if I have to put a computer on it to tell me which module is bad I really don't want anything to do with it. In the immortal words of the Starship Enterprise Chief Engineer Montgomery Scott : " The more complicated the plumbing the easier it is to clog up the drain."
Working on older outboards should NEVER be attempted without a jug of hot coffee and a box of doughnuts (its in the rule book). Seriously, that was a very good demonstration of following procedures for diagnosis in logical order.
Thanks man
The answer is yes. My 2021 Honda powerwasher wont start. but my 92 Johnson 150 will start after sitting 8 months with the same fuel.
13.52 min. Gasoline with 2 stroke oil in it would have been fine. Lubricates bearings in the crankshaft.
I thought your weren't supposed to start an outboard with just using the Wash out port. And I would have just tossed all that fuel. (I know u were just seeing if it ran lol)
Why not put 2 stroke oil in the plug holes better way
Hi.
Do you think carbon reeds will make any difference?
Possibly, but idk how much performance you are really trying to squeeze out of the engine by starting to mess with that kind of stuff
check impellor? change gearbox oil and change fuel?
Hi, can you make a video explaining how the yamaha autolube works? I think it would be interesting. 😊
What about putting some on crankshaft. That's where fogging oil comes in.
Watched someone get their entire upper body burned from doing your "squirt gas while cranking" move. Engine backfired, bottle caught on fire he tried to throw it away and it bounced back on him. Really bad move squirting fuel while cranking. Squirt some into the throat, set bottle down then crank.
I have the same motor but for some reason the speedometer stopped working, didn't know if you could do a video on what to look for, great video
There should be a smallish clear pvc tube that runs from your yamaha gauge to the engine check to see where that tube runs see if it's pinched near the gauge or along the length of the boat, at the engine it runs down the front of the bracket, as mine did it can get pinched when tilting up and down over the years can even rip a hole in it just before it enters the bottom leg it joins to another tube mine is black with a plastic hose joiner sometimes that can separate if it is just plug it in again and use smallest thinnest cable tie to secure it as if it has come apart there it will come apart again easily, it works from a little hole in front of the gear case (around the torpedo shaped part) facing towards the front of boat by water pressure entering this hole giving it a speed value on the gauge it too can get blocked by debris use sewing pin or something similar to clear but don't push in too much as you can damage the tube its a pretty easy fix unless you have faulty gauge hope it helps....
Thank you, I'll look into that.
The drain plugsare still out of the float bowls
I'm watching this and I don't even own a boat 😂
Same here 😂😂
I had one of those, bulletproof indeed!.
How did you learn all this?
Just constantly working on boats, I've worked on thousands of boats over the past 13 years :/ lol if you'd want to learn this kind of stuff though, I put virtually everything I know into courses that you can learn at a super fast rate for really cheap in our Boater's Program here: www.bornagainboating.com/
Can you spray the inside piston of a 4-stroke the same as well with PB spray or WD-40 ? Thanks!
Absolutely, it'll just smoke when it statys and burn it all out quickly
Who else here knew just from looking at the gas that is was no bueno? I usually dip my needle nose in it and set it on fire and observe the flame, or in this case probably wouldn’t burn. I wonder how he performs the synch and link after the carbs rebuild…
No mosquitoes now ,what a great engine ,imagine the possibilities.
Great outboard. It will start.
I don’t need to watch this video to know that you can fire that thing up right away with fresh oil and fuel. As long as the fuel was drained out of the carbs, or if it was ran dry at idle before being put away.
Nutral sacety switch is disconnected
I beat a 2 stroke, 150 Johnson to death for 8 years. It still ran great when i sold it. I now have a 2022 Yamaha 250 4 stroke. Its nice but its nothing special. $875 oil changes arent really fun and it vibrates at idle speed
That Cold Start primer well get you every time. Just by pass it.....
Super great job.... Professor
I would not recommend using a water bottle a squirting fuel like this into the carburetors and throwing it all over in the engine. One backfire and you could blow yourself up you have fuel and ignition aka spark right there not very smart.
Great vid! I like the gas in the water bottle trick haha
I noticed you hooked up the battery leads to the accessory posts rather than the larger terminals. Is this considered okay?
Yep - I think it's a better connection than the big posts and clamp style terminals. Lots of nooks and cranny's for corrosion, too.
That’s what they’re there for😊.
@@chiphill4856 so there would no noticeable difference to the amps that are delivered when cranking regardless of which terminal is used?
@@raybuttigieg1343 True statement.
Actually did not check the spark on all spark plugs to ensure there's fire before starting it.
Best motor
I am starting to believe the old story that Yamaha were inspired by OMC engines, particularly the triples. It is almost identical under there to my mid 80s 70hp. I wish I could get my hands on a set of those carbs, which I think would just bolt up and which I believe were a weak point for OMC - poor design and cheap build e.g. air bleed idle circuit and no throttle shaft bushings meant excessive wear, no fuel pulled up via the low circuit and the infamous mid-range acceleration bog which everyone chases at one point or another.
Don’t own any carbureted engines anymore I sure do miss them ! All this computer EFI stuff kills me sometimes !
As educated mechanic i must say that you did exactly the right thing in the right orders , Not so common. 🙂
😊😊Thanks Man.
Water inside a two stroke only happens when it goes under, or you punch a rod. Otherwise it just falls out, hopefully after a fresh water flush-dude
Wow great vid! Outboard mechanic?
Thank you and yes :)
2 strokes never die.
Yamaha ring free is good for this.
I already know the serial number for this motor I have 3 of them 90TLRC
That's your model number my brother ;)
I have 86 evenrude that haven't been started in 12yrs. I'm 4yrs into a restoration and probably won't use them.
Somebody tried to fix a poor idling condition with the carb idle screw instead of the timing , then carbs need to be cleaned , the first 10% or so of throttle is done with the timing not the carbs
I have the exact same outboard. Im assuming you're saying the idle screw should be set to completely closed and you should advance the idle timing to the desired rpms? And if so then what is the point of having that idle screw?
So what was the item that the red tab broke off of?
That's the fuel enrichner, this video will help: ua-cam.com/video/33phzRMb_gU/v-deo.html
@@BornAgainBoating
Thanks!
that was a bold manuver