How to Test & Replace the Compressor Start Relay in a Refrigerator | Repair & Replace
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- Опубліковано 7 чер 2024
- Failed start relay or PTC thermistor? In this episode of Repair & Replace, Vance shows to troubleshoot and test the compressor start relay with a multimeter. If the refrigerator compressor is not starting, it could be a problem with the start relay or PTC thermistor. If the compressor is faulty, then the refrigerator will not start and will not cool properly.
This video covers the testing of start relays, combination relays, PTC thermistors and current start relays.
Need an exact replacement part? Use the model lookup tool here: www.amresupply.com/lookup
Order refrigerator repair parts online: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Re...
Playlist: Refrigerator Troubleshooting & Repairs: • Refrigerator Troublesh...
Complete Compressor Troubleshooting Guide: • Refrigerator Compresso...
This applies to Whirlpool, Frigidaire, Kenmore, Maytag, LG, General Electric, and Samsung refrigerators.
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00:00 Intro
00:50 How it Works
03:24 What You'll Need
03:32 Model Lookup
03:47 Getting Started
04:46 Start Component Removal
06:07 Start Relay Testing
07:42 Current Start Relay
08:33 Start Component Replacement
09:23 Finishing Up
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If you found this video helpful, let us know in the comments, and if you want to see our complete guide to test the compressor, capacitor, relay and overload protector, watch this troubleshooting guide: ua-cam.com/video/NND8J8dXqJ0/v-deo.html
Thank you for the clear step by step instructions. After several videos this the only one that helped me.
Glad it helped!
For the first time, I found the information I was looking for very clearly. The explanation is very good. I think there might be only one thing missing. You could have explained more clearly the energy cables coming from the network and the thermostat connections in order to support the situation. It would be great if you add this too. Greetings from Türkiye.
Thank you, we're just happy to share some good info. In this video we tried to generalize the "cold control" as some models have a cold control thermostat and others have a control board. In either case, there is a call for cooling. The cold control thermostat will close, and 120V will travel to the fans, and compressor. This continues until the set temperature is reached. If you are curious on how the cold control thermostat works, we show this more in this video: ua-cam.com/video/09MmevMH0hA/v-deo.htmlsi=yra4lnNBNfTGyzV9&t=136
As for more info on the refrigerator in general we have a detailed "how it works" video ua-cam.com/video/FMpnRugHrOE/v-deo.html
Hello. This is what I have, does it indicate a bad relay?
Whirlpool WRT111SFDW03. 7 years old. 11.2 cu ft size. Freezer on top.
Start relay
P/N: WPW10448874,
aka W10448874.
Capacitor ("cap") P/N: WPW10662129
Test relay connections with capacitor on the relay.
Results: when together I can get cap to charge and discharge thru the start relay, just like it does when it's off the relay.
With cap off and on, neither of the lower holes have continuity with each other. The hole on lower left has 0.0 ohms resistance thru the bottom blade of the back of the plug.
The lower right hole has no continuity with anything but can be used to charge the capacitor for testing.
The upper hole has 0.1 ohm resistance to the top blade on the opposite side.
Remove relay cover and visually check. I cannot get combination relay apart without breaking it, so I haven't committed to that, yet.
Ohm test the fridge compressor pins again. Make sure the Common (top) and lower pins are within 3 ohms. And the two pins at bottom should read about the sum of the Common with the Start and Run pins. See UA-cam video...
Results:
Top and Lower Right : 4.4 ohm.
Top to Lower Left: 6.0 ohm.
Two bottom pins: 10.4 ohm.
None of the pins are shorted to ground.
My problem is it suddenly stopped cooling without noises or warning, but I caught it from hearing loud buzzing noise from compressor and relay area, and compressor was very hot. No smoke or smells though, and wires did not seem to be hot.
Do you think it's the combination relay? Thank ya!
Thanks for watching. Based on the part number that you gave, you have a relay that has a built in board so the resistance tests shown the in the video won't apply. The other kind, the PTC thermistor can be tested. The continuity tests on either side won't tell you if it is bad or not.
Replacing the relay would be the best course of action as your compressor resistances seem good.
As well it could be a faulty overload protector, so it's best to test that as well: ua-cam.com/video/NND8J8dXqJ0/v-deo.htmlsi=rFB2hLCv1RZg6xU2&t=527
Many ptc compressors do not come with a start capacitor only run capacitor.how come you can't explain finding which terminal on the start relay goes to neutral or hot wire?
What if you get there and all the wires are already disconnected and taking a picture of it wont help ? You know how to ohm out the compressor and find the start and run terminals on the compressor.but how come you can't explain the terminals on the start relay and why the neutral or hot goes to the specific terminal of the relay and overload specifically?
Thanks for watching. Did you watch the "how it works" segment from 0:50 to 2:38 ? This explains the difference in wiring of a start capacitor versus a run capacitor.
The wiring can be different and not all relays will have all the terminals present.
If your relay does not have a 1 terminal and has a 4 terminal, then you likely have a start capacitor.
Alternatively if your relay has a 1 terminal, and does not have a 4 terminal, then you likely have a run capacitor.