If you found this video helpful, let us know in the comments, and if you want to see our complete guide to test the compressor, capacitor, relay and overload protector, watch this troubleshooting guide: ua-cam.com/video/NND8J8dXqJ0/v-deo.html
Thank you for sharing this comment! We're just happy that people are finding our videos helpful. We have over 500 videos like this on our channel. If you're curious we have a "how it works" playlist which is good to watch anytime you don't need to be in the middle of troubleshooting to find it helpful: ua-cam.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBxWwrWCmzvRMSi2kLo9bGdp.html
@@AmreSupplyhello I replaced my relay and overload and my refrigerator started working again but only for a few hours them stop working again any suggestions
@@Robert-qo9wk You could try checking the compressor windings for resistance as well checking for a short. This is shown in this video: ua-cam.com/video/NND8J8dXqJ0/v-deo.html
For the first time, I found the information I was looking for very clearly. The explanation is very good. I think there might be only one thing missing. You could have explained more clearly the energy cables coming from the network and the thermostat connections in order to support the situation. It would be great if you add this too. Greetings from Türkiye.
Thank you, we're just happy to share some good info. In this video we tried to generalize the "cold control" as some models have a cold control thermostat and others have a control board. In either case, there is a call for cooling. The cold control thermostat will close, and 120V will travel to the fans, and compressor. This continues until the set temperature is reached. If you are curious on how the cold control thermostat works, we show this more in this video: ua-cam.com/video/09MmevMH0hA/v-deo.htmlsi=yra4lnNBNfTGyzV9&t=136 As for more info on the refrigerator in general we have a detailed "how it works" video ua-cam.com/video/FMpnRugHrOE/v-deo.html
Nice video, but I think you missed a few things. Things like: #1. How can you tell on a given compressor (or at least the current compressor that you're showing) which pin is the start and which one is the run pin that are sticking out. Same goes with the different relays that you're showing (or at least the current relay that you're showing), which connection is for which function (run or start), and what would happen if you happen to cross them, or cross them deliberately? #2. How to easily tell which pin goes to which hole of the Relay/Overload, because some compressors have the orientation of the pins upside down (or maybe even sideways?). Because in theory it could potentially be plugged in sideways because the pins' orientation is in a triangle shape, and in theory you could connect the Relay/Overload in any way you want, no? #3. When you are disconnecting and/or plugging in each and all of those wires, why not explicitly show and explain which wire goes where and why and what the function of each wire is, and show all the different configurations that wires may possibly go on depending on the different type of Relay or Relay/Overload or Relay/Overload/Capacitor combination. #4. What do the colors of different wires mean? The black wires of the capacitor were sort of self-explanatory, but what about orientation of the wires? Also, I saw a white and a blue wire being plugged into the Relay. I have also seen many times a red wire being connected to the Relay. #5 What does the size of the Relay/Overload pins mean, because I have seen the two Relay pins are sometimes different size from each other. Also, why are some Overload pins smaller or skinnier than other similar or same looking Overloads? #6. As far as identifying each and every one of these things, is there an industry standard that every manufacturer obeys by, and is there a DEFINITIVE AND AN EASY way to be able to tell all of this, regardless of what type of a fridge or brand or setup, as to what's what and who's who to eliminate all this confusion? #7. Lastly, some Relay/Overload combos come in a kit and some have on the body of them there's a dot, either a red or a black dot. What does that mean, and how to tell which one of those is for your specific fridge or compressor? Maybe you can do a new video and incorporate these subjects into it, or maybe you can add these things and answers to this existing video somehow. Thank you.
Thanks for watching. We created a detailed compressor troubleshooting video which will likely answer your questions. ua-cam.com/video/NND8J8dXqJ0/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching. The save / playlist button is different depending on the device. In mobile, sometimes this is hidden and you have to slide the icons over to reveal the save button. Regardless there is this complete compressor / start component troubleshooting guide which is another good one to save: ua-cam.com/video/NND8J8dXqJ0/v-deo.html
Hi, when testing resistances on small compressors like these. I have found that the PTC relay is actually disconnecting the winding with the lower resistance, and the winding with the higher resistance stays in circuit. This seems backwards to me. A single phase motor start winding should have the higher resistance, hence why that is the winding that get disconnected after start up? Please help, this is driving me crazy! Thank you
The start winding typically has a higher resistance than the run winding but there are some that might have it set up different to achieve specific motor performance. In compressors with PSC permanent split capacitors the resistances will be closer in these cases.
Hello. This is what I have, does it indicate a bad relay? Whirlpool WRT111SFDW03. 7 years old. 11.2 cu ft size. Freezer on top. Start relay P/N: WPW10448874, aka W10448874. Capacitor ("cap") P/N: WPW10662129 Test relay connections with capacitor on the relay. Results: when together I can get cap to charge and discharge thru the start relay, just like it does when it's off the relay. With cap off and on, neither of the lower holes have continuity with each other. The hole on lower left has 0.0 ohms resistance thru the bottom blade of the back of the plug. The lower right hole has no continuity with anything but can be used to charge the capacitor for testing. The upper hole has 0.1 ohm resistance to the top blade on the opposite side. Remove relay cover and visually check. I cannot get combination relay apart without breaking it, so I haven't committed to that, yet. Ohm test the fridge compressor pins again. Make sure the Common (top) and lower pins are within 3 ohms. And the two pins at bottom should read about the sum of the Common with the Start and Run pins. See UA-cam video... Results: Top and Lower Right : 4.4 ohm. Top to Lower Left: 6.0 ohm. Two bottom pins: 10.4 ohm. None of the pins are shorted to ground. My problem is it suddenly stopped cooling without noises or warning, but I caught it from hearing loud buzzing noise from compressor and relay area, and compressor was very hot. No smoke or smells though, and wires did not seem to be hot. Do you think it's the combination relay? Thank ya!
Thanks for watching. Based on the part number that you gave, you have a relay that has a built in board so the resistance tests shown the in the video won't apply. The other kind, the PTC thermistor can be tested. The continuity tests on either side won't tell you if it is bad or not. Replacing the relay would be the best course of action as your compressor resistances seem good. As well it could be a faulty overload protector, so it's best to test that as well: ua-cam.com/video/NND8J8dXqJ0/v-deo.htmlsi=rFB2hLCv1RZg6xU2&t=527
hi. I have a QP2-33MC relay that i tested for continuity across its two terminals (after it is cooled down to ambient temperature), and it gave the beep. When i tested on ohm setting, it give me about 34 ohms. Its not like you said, that should be between 3 to 12 ohms. Then i googled a bit for this relay, and i found out various sources mentioning 33ohm resistance for this relay. Now i don't know whether this relay should give 33 ohm resistance when checked for continuity, or whether this 33ohm relates to something else. Can you let me know if my relay is ok or bad? I also checked the overload protector for continuity, and it is also fine (gives beep for continuity). My LG refrigerator issue is that its compressor doesnot start over once tripped after having the refrigerator temp dropped to whatever desired value programmed there.
Thanks for watching. It seems like your resistance is within normal range for that particular relay. We have a video that shows how to test the capacitor, compressor windings and the overload protector. It can be good to test those as well: ua-cam.com/video/NND8J8dXqJ0/v-deo.html
@@AmreSupply Thanks for your response. So it seems that the OL protector and start relay are good. I checked the other video link that you shared above, and checked the compressor windings. I am getting a resistance of about 35 ohms across one of the windings instead of 10 ohms, while the resistances across other two windings do add up to 35 ohms. Having higher resistances across the windings means what? May be the compressor is failing, due to age? My refrigerator (LG) is almost 14 years in operation now. I also played a bit with the circuit board (EBR327903) located on top of the refrigerator, tried to see the components visually to observe any signs of burn marks of relays / resistors, or swelling of capacitors, but all seems to be fine. While inspecting, i observed two repeated clicks sound in one relay (the largest of all 4 relays) that try to operate and i hear the compressor trying to run and then it stops. The relay code is EBR54874707. I checked the voltage across its input terminals and found it to be ~11 volts. I plug out the refrigerator, and supplied 12V from an external 12V,2A power adapter to check if the relay works fine. It worked fine, without any repeated clicking; means the relay is working fine. I turned on the refrigerator again, and continued testing of other resistors and diodes, until when i touched my multimeter probes across one resistor, that made the above-mentioned relay to click, that started the compressor immediately. I decoded the resistor color codes and also measured the resistance across it, and there was no difference, means the resistor is fine. The resistor terminals checked for any looseness on the circuit board but they appeared to be soldered fine; no looseness whatsoever. But i am surprised how connecting the multimeter probes across this particular resistor make the relay to operate and start the compressor. I have successfully managed to start the compressor multiple times by connecting the multimeter probes across this specific resistor to start the compressor. But i can't come up with a possible explanation why this is so? May be putting the probes across this resistor somehow change the current path through the multimeter rather than the resistor itself? Does this mean that the resistor value needs to be decreased due to some reason, that makes the relay to operate properly and start the compressor? Do you have any further suggestions to proceed further from this point? Sorry for the long explanation by the way, but i feel like i should explain in detail whatever i have been upto with my refrigerator lately.
Thanks for watching. 19 ohms is higher than it should be at room temperature. If you let the PTC cool down all the way and it still reads 19 ohms then it could be problematic. It is still worth checking the overload protector and the capacitor. You can see the complete compressor troubleshooting guide here: ua-cam.com/video/NND8J8dXqJ0/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching. Either the cold control thermostat is faulty, or there is a buildup of heat which is tripping the overload protector on the compressor.
Many ptc compressors do not come with a start capacitor only run capacitor.how come you can't explain finding which terminal on the start relay goes to neutral or hot wire? What if you get there and all the wires are already disconnected and taking a picture of it wont help ? You know how to ohm out the compressor and find the start and run terminals on the compressor.but how come you can't explain the terminals on the start relay and why the neutral or hot goes to the specific terminal of the relay and overload specifically?
Thanks for watching. Did you watch the "how it works" segment from 0:50 to 2:38 ? This explains the difference in wiring of a start capacitor versus a run capacitor. The wiring can be different and not all relays will have all the terminals present. If your relay does not have a 1 terminal and has a 4 terminal, then you likely have a start capacitor. Alternatively if your relay has a 1 terminal, and does not have a 4 terminal, then you likely have a run capacitor.
Went to your location and the staff wasn't willing to answer questions at all, all he was willing to say was "I haven't seen your fridge so I don't know" when I was just asking for ways for me to check and not asking him to give me a definite conclusion.
Thanks for sharing your experience. When it comes to how to find the right replacement parts, model lookups and physically identifying the parts the staff at the counters are very knowledgeable, however they are not technicians and are not in a position to give in-depth technical advice or diagnose problems on models they have not seen directly. We created this refrigerator series for more structured troubleshooting. The full playlist of videos is here: ua-cam.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBxXf2GEiSiunxAlN3ENxXGq.html We do have a more in-depth troubleshooting video on all compressor components as well as compressor winding testing: ua-cam.com/video/NND8J8dXqJ0/v-deo.html Or if you have any other questions, let me know and I'll be happy to help!
![Refrigerator Not Cooling - How to Fix - What to Check [2020]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ocOW2GYxdTE/mqdefault.jpg)
If you found this video helpful, let us know in the comments, and if you want to see our complete guide to test the compressor, capacitor, relay and overload protector, watch this troubleshooting guide: ua-cam.com/video/NND8J8dXqJ0/v-deo.html
I never write any comments, but mate, this one is legend. Pls keep such contents up.
Thank you for sharing this comment! We're just happy that people are finding our videos helpful. We have over 500 videos like this on our channel. If you're curious we have a "how it works" playlist which is good to watch anytime you don't need to be in the middle of troubleshooting to find it helpful: ua-cam.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBxWwrWCmzvRMSi2kLo9bGdp.html
Awesome video this one and the link you posted helped me fix my samsung refrigerator it only cost me $95 beats paying $2,000 for a new one thank you.
You're welcome, we're glad the video helped you out!
Thank you for the clear step by step instructions. After several videos this the only one that helped me.
Glad it helped!
@@AmreSupplyhello I replaced my relay and overload and my refrigerator started working again but only for a few hours them stop working again any suggestions
@@Robert-qo9wk You could try checking the compressor windings for resistance as well checking for a short. This is shown in this video: ua-cam.com/video/NND8J8dXqJ0/v-deo.html
True pleya tech. Nice work.
Thank you, we're just happy to help!
For the first time, I found the information I was looking for very clearly. The explanation is very good. I think there might be only one thing missing. You could have explained more clearly the energy cables coming from the network and the thermostat connections in order to support the situation. It would be great if you add this too. Greetings from Türkiye.
Thank you, we're just happy to share some good info. In this video we tried to generalize the "cold control" as some models have a cold control thermostat and others have a control board. In either case, there is a call for cooling. The cold control thermostat will close, and 120V will travel to the fans, and compressor. This continues until the set temperature is reached. If you are curious on how the cold control thermostat works, we show this more in this video: ua-cam.com/video/09MmevMH0hA/v-deo.htmlsi=yra4lnNBNfTGyzV9&t=136
As for more info on the refrigerator in general we have a detailed "how it works" video ua-cam.com/video/FMpnRugHrOE/v-deo.html
I like the explanation thank you
You're welcome! We're glad you found it helpful!
Nice video, but I think you missed a few things. Things like: #1. How can you tell on a given compressor (or at least the current compressor that you're showing) which pin is the start and which one is the run pin that are sticking out. Same goes with the different relays that you're showing (or at least the current relay that you're showing), which connection is for which function (run or start), and what would happen if you happen to cross them, or cross them deliberately? #2. How to easily tell which pin goes to which hole of the Relay/Overload, because some compressors have the orientation of the pins upside down (or maybe even sideways?). Because in theory it could potentially be plugged in sideways because the pins' orientation is in a triangle shape, and in theory you could connect the Relay/Overload in any way you want, no? #3. When you are disconnecting and/or plugging in each and all of those wires, why not explicitly show and explain which wire goes where and why and what the function of each wire is, and show all the different configurations that wires may possibly go on depending on the different type of Relay or Relay/Overload or Relay/Overload/Capacitor combination. #4. What do the colors of different wires mean? The black wires of the capacitor were sort of self-explanatory, but what about orientation of the wires? Also, I saw a white and a blue wire being plugged into the Relay. I have also seen many times a red wire being connected to the Relay. #5 What does the size of the Relay/Overload pins mean, because I have seen the two Relay pins are sometimes different size from each other. Also, why are some Overload pins smaller or skinnier than other similar or same looking Overloads? #6. As far as identifying each and every one of these things, is there an industry standard that every manufacturer obeys by, and is there a DEFINITIVE AND AN EASY way to be able to tell all of this, regardless of what type of a fridge or brand or setup, as to what's what and who's who to eliminate all this confusion? #7. Lastly, some Relay/Overload combos come in a kit and some have on the body of them there's a dot, either a red or a black dot. What does that mean, and how to tell which one of those is for your specific fridge or compressor? Maybe you can do a new video and incorporate these subjects into it, or maybe you can add these things and answers to this existing video somehow. Thank you.
Thanks for watching. We created a detailed compressor troubleshooting video which will likely answer your questions. ua-cam.com/video/NND8J8dXqJ0/v-deo.html
How do I save this excellent video to a play list for watching repeatedly? I logged into You Tube but could not find the SAVE button.
Thanks for watching. The save / playlist button is different depending on the device. In mobile, sometimes this is hidden and you have to slide the icons over to reveal the save button.
Regardless there is this complete compressor / start component troubleshooting guide which is another good one to save: ua-cam.com/video/NND8J8dXqJ0/v-deo.html
Hi, when testing resistances on small compressors like these. I have found that the PTC relay is actually disconnecting the winding with the lower resistance, and the winding with the higher resistance stays in circuit. This seems backwards to me. A single phase motor start winding should have the higher resistance, hence why that is the winding that get disconnected after start up?
Please help, this is driving me crazy!
Thank you
The start winding typically has a higher resistance than the run winding but there are some that might have it set up different to achieve specific motor performance. In compressors with PSC permanent split capacitors the resistances will be closer in these cases.
Hello. This is what I have, does it indicate a bad relay?
Whirlpool WRT111SFDW03. 7 years old. 11.2 cu ft size. Freezer on top.
Start relay
P/N: WPW10448874,
aka W10448874.
Capacitor ("cap") P/N: WPW10662129
Test relay connections with capacitor on the relay.
Results: when together I can get cap to charge and discharge thru the start relay, just like it does when it's off the relay.
With cap off and on, neither of the lower holes have continuity with each other. The hole on lower left has 0.0 ohms resistance thru the bottom blade of the back of the plug.
The lower right hole has no continuity with anything but can be used to charge the capacitor for testing.
The upper hole has 0.1 ohm resistance to the top blade on the opposite side.
Remove relay cover and visually check. I cannot get combination relay apart without breaking it, so I haven't committed to that, yet.
Ohm test the fridge compressor pins again. Make sure the Common (top) and lower pins are within 3 ohms. And the two pins at bottom should read about the sum of the Common with the Start and Run pins. See UA-cam video...
Results:
Top and Lower Right : 4.4 ohm.
Top to Lower Left: 6.0 ohm.
Two bottom pins: 10.4 ohm.
None of the pins are shorted to ground.
My problem is it suddenly stopped cooling without noises or warning, but I caught it from hearing loud buzzing noise from compressor and relay area, and compressor was very hot. No smoke or smells though, and wires did not seem to be hot.
Do you think it's the combination relay? Thank ya!
Thanks for watching. Based on the part number that you gave, you have a relay that has a built in board so the resistance tests shown the in the video won't apply. The other kind, the PTC thermistor can be tested. The continuity tests on either side won't tell you if it is bad or not.
Replacing the relay would be the best course of action as your compressor resistances seem good.
As well it could be a faulty overload protector, so it's best to test that as well: ua-cam.com/video/NND8J8dXqJ0/v-deo.htmlsi=rFB2hLCv1RZg6xU2&t=527
hi. I have a QP2-33MC relay that i tested for continuity across its two terminals (after it is cooled down to ambient temperature), and it gave the beep. When i tested on ohm setting, it give me about 34 ohms. Its not like you said, that should be between 3 to 12 ohms. Then i googled a bit for this relay, and i found out various sources mentioning 33ohm resistance for this relay. Now i don't know whether this relay should give 33 ohm resistance when checked for continuity, or whether this 33ohm relates to something else. Can you let me know if my relay is ok or bad? I also checked the overload protector for continuity, and it is also fine (gives beep for continuity). My LG refrigerator issue is that its compressor doesnot start over once tripped after having the refrigerator temp dropped to whatever desired value programmed there.
Thanks for watching. It seems like your resistance is within normal range for that particular relay. We have a video that shows how to test the capacitor, compressor windings and the overload protector. It can be good to test those as well: ua-cam.com/video/NND8J8dXqJ0/v-deo.html
@@AmreSupply Thanks for your response. So it seems that the OL protector and start relay are good. I checked the other video link that you shared above, and checked the compressor windings. I am getting a resistance of about 35 ohms across one of the windings instead of 10 ohms, while the resistances across other two windings do add up to 35 ohms. Having higher resistances across the windings means what? May be the compressor is failing, due to age? My refrigerator (LG) is almost 14 years in operation now.
I also played a bit with the circuit board (EBR327903) located on top of the refrigerator, tried to see the components visually to observe any signs of burn marks of relays / resistors, or swelling of capacitors, but all seems to be fine. While inspecting, i observed two repeated clicks sound in one relay (the largest of all 4 relays) that try to operate and i hear the compressor trying to run and then it stops. The relay code is EBR54874707. I checked the voltage across its input terminals and found it to be ~11 volts. I plug out the refrigerator, and supplied 12V from an external 12V,2A power adapter to check if the relay works fine. It worked fine, without any repeated clicking; means the relay is working fine.
I turned on the refrigerator again, and continued testing of other resistors and diodes, until when i touched my multimeter probes across one resistor, that made the above-mentioned relay to click, that started the compressor immediately. I decoded the resistor color codes and also measured the resistance across it, and there was no difference, means the resistor is fine. The resistor terminals checked for any looseness on the circuit board but they appeared to be soldered fine; no looseness whatsoever. But i am surprised how connecting the multimeter probes across this particular resistor make the relay to operate and start the compressor. I have successfully managed to start the compressor multiple times by connecting the multimeter probes across this specific resistor to start the compressor. But i can't come up with a possible explanation why this is so? May be putting the probes across this resistor somehow change the current path through the multimeter rather than the resistor itself? Does this mean that the resistor value needs to be decreased due to some reason, that makes the relay to operate properly and start the compressor? Do you have any further suggestions to proceed further from this point?
Sorry for the long explanation by the way, but i feel like i should explain in detail whatever i have been upto with my refrigerator lately.
Please I have continuity on my ptc relay but the resistance is high , it's gives 19 ohms.. should the relay be changed.
Thanks for watching. 19 ohms is higher than it should be at room temperature. If you let the PTC cool down all the way and it still reads 19 ohms then it could be problematic. It is still worth checking the overload protector and the capacitor. You can see the complete compressor troubleshooting guide here: ua-cam.com/video/NND8J8dXqJ0/v-deo.html
Hello why deep freezer cuts of after
Few minutes
Thanks for watching. Either the cold control thermostat is faulty, or there is a buildup of heat which is tripping the overload protector on the compressor.
Many ptc compressors do not come with a start capacitor only run capacitor.how come you can't explain finding which terminal on the start relay goes to neutral or hot wire?
What if you get there and all the wires are already disconnected and taking a picture of it wont help ? You know how to ohm out the compressor and find the start and run terminals on the compressor.but how come you can't explain the terminals on the start relay and why the neutral or hot goes to the specific terminal of the relay and overload specifically?
Thanks for watching. Did you watch the "how it works" segment from 0:50 to 2:38 ? This explains the difference in wiring of a start capacitor versus a run capacitor.
The wiring can be different and not all relays will have all the terminals present.
If your relay does not have a 1 terminal and has a 4 terminal, then you likely have a start capacitor.
Alternatively if your relay has a 1 terminal, and does not have a 4 terminal, then you likely have a run capacitor.
Went to your location and the staff wasn't willing to answer questions at all, all he was willing to say was "I haven't seen your fridge so I don't know" when I was just asking for ways for me to check and not asking him to give me a definite conclusion.
Thanks for sharing your experience. When it comes to how to find the right replacement parts, model lookups and physically identifying the parts the staff at the counters are very knowledgeable, however they are not technicians and are not in a position to give in-depth technical advice or diagnose problems on models they have not seen directly.
We created this refrigerator series for more structured troubleshooting. The full playlist of videos is here: ua-cam.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBxXf2GEiSiunxAlN3ENxXGq.html
We do have a more in-depth troubleshooting video on all compressor components as well as compressor winding testing: ua-cam.com/video/NND8J8dXqJ0/v-deo.html
Or if you have any other questions, let me know and I'll be happy to help!