My garage refrigerator stopped working. Fan was working but not the compressor. I followed your instructions and ordered a relay switch and capacitor from Amazon for $20, and now it's working fine. Thank you so much. I didn't know how much a repair guy would charge, so I was thinking of trashing it. Thanks to you, it's working now.
@ImmaSaveUFromMe no a repairman will cost around a 100 dollars to come out and diagnose it.... then any part cost in this case 50 dollars and an hour labor at 60 dollars an hour... looking at just over 200 bucks
Doesn't mean you're helpless! My baby sister has 3 Harleys, does near all her own wrenching on bikes, mowers, truck and house. She's 65. I only have 1 Harley. 😢
Our Whirlpool refrigerator stopped working after a power outage.. the lights & fans come on but the cooling & freezer isnt working. Could it be a bad Start Relay or Capicator? Or could it be the main circuit board? Thanks
hi noel I have a question I changed both start relay and capacitor lasted a week now its clicking again in your professional opinion what else can cause this I have ge profile French door freezer on the bottom thanks in advance
This video gave me hope. My old refrigerator died less than a year ago, so my local veteran's outreach group had a member who had a used refrigerator sitting in his storage unit taking up space, so he donated it to me, for which I am eternally grateful. Then a couple of days ago it suddenly stopped cooling--lost probably $200 worth of food in the freezer alone. It's a nice late-model Whirlpool side-by-side, too. I think having a repairman come look at it would be preferable to trying to replace it--I could never afford to replace a fridge as nice as this one. This video makes me realize it would be worth having a professional look at it (I'm elderly and very disabled) rather than buying another used fridge. It could be something as simple as the mice chewed through a wire or a broken relay. Thank you so much!
You saved another Whirlpool from the trip to the junk yard. Replaced the fancy relay but not the cap. My local appliance parts vendor said this was a commonly replaced part and the cap very rarely needs replacing. My fridg, with it's bottom freezer, also had Very dirty coils mounted across the bottom near the floor. Had to empty it so I could tilt it and properly remove the dust from the coils. Once all sealed up it took awhile for temp to drop because all the food was so warm. So far so good!
Same here, but I wanted to mention, my relay tested fine, but I replaced it on a hunch after testing the capacitor…. Works like a champ! $20. So consider trying a new relay even if the old one tests!
Dave, I feel your pain. The part I got tickled with is where the fridge showed up in the garage because your wife decided you were getting a new one. DIY guys like us are so underappreciated. I have an old Maytag upright freezer that suddenly decided to get a little warm. This time, I went and bought a new freezer without even diagnosing the problem. But, I'm going to try to fix it and give it to my little sister from another mister or my wife's little sister to make things more clear. Don't get discouraged. Keep up the great work and good luck in the future!!!
After watching a dozen videos and several Google explanations, this video was the only one that fully explained that both bottom terminals on the start relay should have continuity with starter relay removed. My symptom was no compressor start up but 5.4 amps draw, then relay clicked off. I disassembled mine after finding no continuity. I noticed the disk inside (no electronics board) was burned only on one side. I decided to flip the disc 180° and continuity returned. I reinstalled the starter and capacitor to test compressor power up. It worked fantastic! I will be replacing the starter only as capacitor tested good. Thank you for you thorough explanations.
Your video is 14.5 minutes long but I haven't watched it for up to 1 minute when I realized I'm watching the right video. This, is the best diagnosis UA-cam video I ever watched. Thanks for taking your time to make this.
I guess you could feel that way if you don’t know shit from shinola about refrigeration like this guy, let’s just hope he doesn’t hurt himself and sticks to his day job !
Hey Dave! I loved the walkthrough. You are a natural teacher, clear and precise. Thanks! I just defrosted the freezer. The evaporator and condenser fans are working and blowing cold air and freezing. However, the cooler isn't really cooling much. Also, I can't hear the condenser buzzing, so as you show, it could be a relay or capacitor problem. Perhaps the condenser is only half working. Great video!
Incredible! We don't have a lot of money and I have been searching everywhere to get layman's terms and you nailed it! Thank you, not just from me, but from my family!
I'm a training appliance repairmen and honestly this video really helped me understand not only how to check voltages on the compressor units, but you actually did what I wish my teacher would've done for me and go down a list of things that could not work, but do in this case. But I haven't been able to see many fridges yet.
I just fixed mine, thanks to your video! Yes, it was the same issue, the compressor start relay. First I removed it, jotted down the #s, did searches, found out they are out of stock, out of production everywhere. But after looking really close at one on Amazon, I noticed it looked exactly the same as mine (the same shapes, same plug shapes, and it was the same brand)..so I bought it (about $78) plugged it in and whammo! I just ordered another one so when and if it breaks again I'll have one. My fridge was made in 2005, so the original lasted 17 years. I did some cleaning in the coils while under there also (they need to be kept free of dust and dirt). I intend to buy a special brush made for fitting in between the coils but for now I just used my compressed air system's blow hose. Mine is a Frigidaire model FRS6R4 EW2, the original part which is now obsolete had these #s on it: 3ARR55C4E2A and is part # 241543958. The new start relay is a Frigidaire part # 241524611 "compressor start relay", it got here in one day Amazon Prime. I used the original capacitor, it fit the new start relay exactly and apparently it was fine. Bottom line: if you have searched the part # for yours everywhere and it can not be found, just search your brand name and "start relay" on Amazon and look at each one, it helps to have your original in your hand for close examination.
This was a good video explaining what to check in a no cool situation in a refer. The only thing I would add as a 40 year refer tech(Whirlpool/Sub Zero) is that the compressor sounded noisy after the start relay was installed. The compressor may be going bad and a good check is to put a amp probe on the wiring and see what the compressor is drawing in amps. Overall this video tells you what to look for. Great to see these type of video's helping consumers
@Salvadore Orozco Great question I look for about 3 or 4 amps on startup and about 1 to 3 amps on run. If you have higher amps the compressor will probably fail shortly I also carry a hard start kit which may extend life of compressor
Salvadore Orozco There should be a sticker on the compressor with information including the RLA, that’s the “ rated load amps”, that is about what you should see for current draw for that particular compressor. Invest in a clamp amp if this interests you, it’s a good tool to have along with a VOM. See the difference between 40 years experience and 45 years experience.
Joe Yelda Wow are you off, start amps are much higher, as a rule of thumb start amps are around 5 times the run amps, and they are usually given on the label on the compressor.
Hi Dave! I watched the video and you are really good explaining how to fix! I have a whirlpool fridge! My frizzer works fine (bottom frizzer) But the refrigerator doesn’t work! Do you think my fridge problem is the same as yours? Please LMK Thank you 😊 BTW in case you think I didn’t writing ✍️ well English is not my first language😊
@@nunyabusiness6746 I’ve only got 38 years of experience. I have learned that you cannot use the RLA value to determine the correct operating amperage. RLA is a mathematical calculation required to meet Underwriters Laboratories Inc. (UL) approval only. You can use the amperage rating for that compressor either located on the compressor or from the manufacture. Since the start windings are only energized for a few seconds, there is no real near to determine the amps at start for troubleshooting. The Amperage of the run windings more useful in troubleshooting The ohms of both windings are also useful. In fact, ohms of the start windings is ideal vs amps of start. If a compressor is running, the start windings are fine. Easy peasy. But what do I know with only 38 years experience.
Rance here, my refer quit cooling ran across your video… have two things to say…THANK You, THANK YOU, THANK YOU,,THANK YOU… my Refrigerator is working! Thanks to you….I will tell you again THANK YOU..
Dave Wirth, this video really helped me. Was able to diagnose and fix my 15 yr old LG fridge for 10 bucks. It was a bad starter relay and protection combo. The multimeter tests you showed were super helpful. You saved me a couple thousand bucks for a new fridge.
This is an outstanding video. I"m a DIYer also and this was SO easy to follow. Being curious about circuits, I wanted to see inside that start relay and Dave came through and showed it. If you understand how a refrigerator (or air conditioner) compressor starts up at each run cycle, it makes more sense that the start capacitor would be bad because that capacitor gives the compressor the extra electrical kick it needs to get it started. Most relays either work or they don't (at all), so I immediately suspected the start capacitor and not the start relay. In this case (and in most newer fridges), the start capacitor is plugged into the start relay and the start relay is then plugged into the compressor, and that means the start capacitor can become electrically disconnected from the compressor if the start relay circuit is damaged. This would prevent the start capacitor from supplying the electrical boost that the compressor needs to start up. This video convinced me that my nearly new fridge probably needs a new start relay. Mine uses the same type of setup as Dave's does, with the start capacitor plugged into the start relay which is plugged into the compressor - so I'm pretty confident Dave just helped me solve my problem.
Great video! Direct to the point. Mine is doing the exact same thing. I am taking the part to my friend the electrician and he is going to test it for me! I hope my fix is as easy as yours is! The cleanup took me all afternoon. But so much better than buying a new fridge! I am a single woman and I really appreciate helpful, no fluff videos like yours ! Thank you
Mine was the start relay. Had all the same symptoms. Part cost me about 65 and the place I bought it tested my capacitor and it was good. Took less than 10 minutes to take off the old one and put on the new one. 👍
Thanks Dave! After watching your video, I replace the start relay, and my old fridge is working great! You saved me from spending a couple of thousand dollars to buy a new fridge!
Even though there are many praises for you, I still want to say that you are the best! Clear, easy to understand, and most of all, I fixed my refrigerator. Thank you!
Voltage rating on a capacitor doesn't mean it's giving the compressor a shot of that voltage - it's the maximum voltage it will handle without shorting.
Came to the comments to see this comment. Thank u sir! Capacitors don’t increase voltage they simply hold a charge and are rated for up to a certain voltage
I have the same "basic" multimeter as in this video and do not understand the logic / explanation on how he validated the capacitor was "good" / "not the issue". Any feedback, please?
Thanks for all the good info! I’m working on a Kenmore freezer right now… unfortunately I think it’s the control board and/or the thermostat because the inside light comes on but the rest of it is drawing zero power
Nicely done. My whirlpool ‘side by side’ stopped freezing and cooling after we unplugged fridge to defrost. I noticed that the rear bottom blower fan was working and blowing air into freezer and cooler section of fridge however, compressor would not turn on and now I know exactly what problem may be and it’s not that expensive to fix. Thanks!
Hello Dave, this is a great video! It is greatly appreciated to see someone adding a list of things to check because it makes the diagnosis so much easier. Fix everything until it is unfixable. In Europe the appliances are much better quality and we have to demand that in North America. Thank you!
That is a helpful and informative video. I recently just fixed my Maytag refrigerator which is a 2013 model. it's very similar to your compressor setup. mine ended up being a bad start capacitor. mine was melting on the floor like yours. One thing I'd like to note when you were doing your continuity test you had your multimeter set wrong, you had it set on the diode test. You just have to select the resistance scale on your meter to check for continuity
My problem isn't like yours but I see so many techs commenting that I thought someone may see what I'm missing. Our 2013 LG LFX33975 french-door refrigerator was purchased 1/2014 and cooling has always been warmer than whatever it's set for in both the fridge and freezer. I opted for the 3 year LG Premium Care extended warranty for a little over $300 and after that LG only offered a 2 year plan and the price increased to about $500, but we bought it anyway. Good thing too since shortly after re-enrolling, everything in the freezer suddenly melted in April 2017. After almost 2 weeks, a tech finally arrived and said it needed a compressor, a drier, and condenser. He ordered the parts and left. The parts arrived and a week later a different tech arrived and said it only needed a circuit board so he took the parts with him. I don’t recall if we had to wait for the board, but I think he had one. After that, the fridge was the coldest it had ever been at 38 degrees. Then in August 2018 it wouldn’t get any colder than 50 degrees so after another 2 weeks a tech came out and said something about a large plastic center section being updated so again the part was ordered and eventually installed. That lowered the temp to 40 which is what it’s been since the day I plugged it in except for the time mentioned above where it hit 38. Anyway, one day everything melted in the freezer again and the fridge seemed stuck at 50 so I again called for service but by the time a tech came out, the fridge seemed to be back to normal so the tech didn’t find a problem. I had a repeat of that in June 2019 but this time I was told I’d have to pay for the service call if no problem was found. Like the other time, the fridge normalized by the time they called in mid-July to schedule the service call so I just cancelled. Since the extended warranty seemed to have been a waste of money, and the coverage offered was reduced to yearly while increasing the price, I let the coverage go. Well it’s August 2022 and for the past few weeks we’ve been noticing the milk has been starting to go bad way before the expiration dates, the assumption being the store may not have been refrigerating ‘em promptly after arrival, but then a few days later we noticed water on the floor. The fridge had a 50 degree temp and the freezer was about 20 degrees. A Google search said it had a blocked drain line so I took the large plastic center section out and I didn’t see any ice but the tray was full of very cold water. I left the fridge unplugged for a day but the drain was still plugged so I tried poking some thin plastic tubing from an air shock into the tube but kept hitting an obstruction so I tried going upward as well from the back of the fridge, same obstruction. While contemplating my next move, I found the water had drained and the plastic tubing no longer found any obstructions. After a day of normalizing the fridge, the lowest it would go is 46 degrees and 11 for the freezer so I looked at the board, nothing on the LED. I pressed the test button once and heard a single beep 3x. Both the upper and lower fans in that large plastic panel in the fridge started up and the front display was fully lighted. The compressor and the fan next to it were running as well but the test cycle lasted about 5 minutes before shutting everything off except the interior lights and the front panel resumed normal function like when a door is closed. At that point the fridge was 50 degrees and the freezer was 29 degrees. A few minutes later, the compressor started again. At that point the compressor felt hotter than usual. I should say the compressor is also quieter than it was when new. I pressed the test button 2x, heard a double beep 3x, the front displayed 22 and 22, and everything started running again. Again everything shut down after about 5 minutes and the display returned to normal. Almost another 5 minutes passed and then I could hear the two fans in the fridge start, a minute or two later the fan next to the compressor started and finally the compressor again. Pressing the test button 3x didn’t reset the fridge as expected but just shut down all the moving components and the front displayed 33 and 33. After 5 minutes I heard a click but everything remained dead silent. Another 5 minutes passed before the fans inside started and then another 5 minutes passed before the compressor started again. So the total time to resume was 15 minutes after the test button was pressed 3x. I’m guessing that last test activated the thaw cycle because after the 10 minute mark where the fans inside started, I saw the puddle under the drain tube move and I heard erratic type sounds like water sizzling in a hot pan. I noticed the fridge said it had “Smart Diagnosis” so I found the procedure in the manual and called LG. I had to ask for it and was then transferred to a tech that didn’t speak English very well. I was instructed to lock the panel and press some buttons while holding the phone up to the speaker in the top right hinge until the series of squeals stopped and then the guy asked for the temps before concluding it needed a compressor. Since the compressor has 2 years left on the 10 year warranty, he texted a couple places to call but labor would be on me. The first place was the place that has been here many times but they said they no longer service LG. The next place said $800 if the compressor was all that was needed. I called LG again for more options and they texted 3 more. The first said $500-700 but they were 60 miles away and didn’t service my area. The next one was just a guy's name and when called, it said “call rejected.” The last one was 250 miles away so obviously that would be a waste of time. It’s a shame this model was included in the class action lawsuit that was settled. The date of manufacturer and history of problems matched perfectly. I looked up how to replace a compressor and honestly it doesn’t look that bad since I’ve been doing A/C work on vehicles for over 40 years and it’s only R-134a so I have a vacuum pump to evacuate and a manifold set to charge it but then I read about the board will need updating so I guess that’s out. I’m beginning to think the problem may not even be a compressor issue so I thought I’d seek opinions before having to go into debt for another refrigerator. Consumer Reports says for 34” and wider, the top 4 models are LG, for 31-33 inch, the top 2 are LG, and for 30 inch and narrower, the top 2 are again LG. Maybe the problems were fixed but I guess time will tell. ($4500 for #1) Samsung rated poorly with 45 fridges rated better, mostly LG, but Samsung has failed me on all my other appliances, which seems to align with CR, so I’d rather find the problem with this LFX33975 if possible. Any thoughts? UPDATE: I decided to install a $5 piercing valve (BPV31) on the low side to check the R134a pressure but never realized how terrible my R134a manifold gauges are when reading low PSI. I even took a picture so I could enlarge it but it didn’t help. All I know is when running, the needle barely moved from 0 and about hit a high of 28 PSI after sitting off for a while. I gambled with an evacuation, put a vacuum on it for an hour and then let it sit for another hour with the vacuum off. The vacuum maintained so I vacuumed again and slowly allowed some R134a back in while still unplugged and at some point I let the compressor slowly take it in while frequently noting the PSI pressure. The moment the high side started feeling warm, I unplugged it to let the system equalize. The final recharge ended up being a little less than 40 PSI and temps in the fridge cooled down to 39F, and the freezer cooled to 3F so for not knowing what I was doing, I got lucky. That’s the coldest the freezer has ever been and the fridge part is about the same or lower than we’ve experienced since we bought this new in 2014. And I still have some R134a left in that little can I picked up at Walmart for less than $10 so the fridge came back to life for less than $20, which means LG was wrong about it needing a compressor.
I'm about to try taking out the relay and capacitor and relay for testing. I just wanted to tell you what a great job you did describing the symptoms and taking us through a checklist! Thank you so much!
Flawless video. I'll be doing this tomorrow. I think you just saved me $1500! You're a natural and so direct and to the point.Love it when my time isn't wasted. Thank you sir!
I'm with Minh Leu... you are a fantastic teacher. I've seen factory videos on how to do something, and your video was better. You really have a talent for putting yourself in the mindset of the audience and helps us understand everything you were teaching us. Thanks so much! (Now, if you'll just do one or replacing the AC compressor in a 2007 Saturn Vue, you can take the rest of the day off.
Thank you so much. I’m going to check out the neighbors refrigerator this morning. Whether this helps on this project or not remains to be seen. You have made a great video Dave. Thanks again 😊
It’s Saturday evening n my renter calls about their refrig not cooling. Your vid was perfectly laid out for troubleshooting the problem. Many Thx Dave!
The best refrigerator repair video on UA-cam! 5:38 Mine was rattling and when i opened it, i found a burnt mark with some kind of disintegrated metal bits and pieces.
I was about to buy a new fridge until I saw your video, my fridge had the same problem, the compresor will kick on, then turn off, and I would hear the click, I am pretty handy with tools so after seeing your video, now I know what it is!!!! Thank you so much for taking the time to make these video, I feel like I owe you money!!!
This video helped me out a lot. I appreciate the in depth instruction. I can't afford a new fridge/freezer right now and you helped save us the service fee and learn something new in the process :)
I like the way you put this video together, it's genuine and clear thinking. It was interesting to see the guts of the relay, obviously containing a series of capacitors, diodes, and at least one MOSFET. The days of the simple PTC or current relay are almost gone. I also like the way you searched for the exact replacement part. In the pro world, people won't accept a delay of a couple of weeks to get an exact match, so many carry a so called "3 in 1 hard start kit" on the truck, containing a generic relay, an overload switch, and a capacitor. Those kits are cheaper but are not nearly as reliable or as durable as the OEM version, and they don't necessarily balance the load properly. However by being a general solution, repair guys can get the fridge working within minutes, and if it doesn't work there is no delay. With a quick solution it is easier to resist the pressure to buy another fridge right away, but sometimes the compressor fails a few months later.
Thanks so much! Your diagnostic steps helped us fix a similar GE frig. We’re very grateful since repair service is very hard to schedule due to COVID. Feels so good to fix it ourselves!
Thank you for this. It was exactly what my fridge was doing and bought the parts of amazon for under $10. It's working again so you saved me the cost of a new fridge.
Very good video with information well explained. I've dealt with evaporator dripping water issue (which froze at the bottom of the fridge and my drawer was stuck). This is a new knowledge so I can get well prepared.
Hello Dave, Thank you for your knowledge and clear instruction for troubleshooting, both in easy to understand verbal communication and detailed visual aids! Our Frigidaire refrig/with lower freezer is only 11 years old and still in such wonderful shape that it is hard to think about replacing it, especially when items are so often delayed due to extenuating supply chain circumstances. I'll be working on this now and here's hoping it will be back up and running in no time! Appreciation abounds, sincerely!
Great Job Dave 🧰 This is one of the most thorough DIY fridge diagnosis vids I’ve watched. Without a doubt this video will save folks a ton of fridge service charge and replacement cost money 💰🙏🏼🤩
You truly are the Best+, I bought used fridge,,,, at first only freezer worked, than both fridge n freezer just stopped... I read the trouble shooting problem but had no clue how to diagnose the broken part.... 1st thing tomorrow I’m gonna follow your 4rules... thanks a million.
Thank you so much you saved me a bundle! One note, my new part took a different wiring harness that was an additional charge. It was easy enough to switch out but just thought I'd pass it along.
thanks Dave. i have a Frigidaire upright freezer. i hear a click every 20-seconds and i found a burn mark on the controller relay kit. i am going to replace both the capacitor and the relay.
Thank you so much. I cannot repair it as I am disabled but I don't want to be taken advantage of when the repair man gets here. So, now I know to ask about the relay and the capacitor. Thank you sooo much!!!!!
It’s Saturday evening n my renter calls about their refrig not cooling. Thanks for this guide and I am going through my frigidaire fridge [looks just like yours].
Thank you Dave that was awesome I eventually had this problem at first I would hear a snapping sound at least 8-10 times a day until this relay failed, I then replaced both the relay and capacitor at the same time since both had to be removed at the same time anyway
Order an extra set. These are “ no longer available” after 8 years. They want you to buy a new unit. All manufacturers do it on GE’s original mandate. If and when they are no longer available, use a 3 n 1 hard start start/run capacitor. Not pretty but they work great. Not expensive either.
Thank you so much. It’s amazing how you explained the problem in details. It looks as if a professor is explaining the problem in a college class room. Again thank you sir.
even though i knew you had the fridge unplugged, when you were installing that support wire that locks in the relay/cap to the compressor and suddenly went into fast-forward mode while your hands were in close proximity to all those electrical components (around 12:00 ), i heard a buzzing right away and it still made me jump a little! :) great video, thanks!
Thank you dude, after scrolling for a while, I finally found a video that explains everything perfectly, with explanations as to why you're troubleshooting each part!
Great video, even called a local repair guy *$85 service call to verify that it was not just the capacity (black box), but proably regulator too or even compressor. Ordered both and plugged them in, but didn't initially fix the problem because the plug came off when I pushed it on the compressor. I didn't see the plug come off until I went back to take it off to return it (Amazon returns). The plug was exactly like the original, but did eventually go on with extra force and stayed.
D.W. Great analysis & video - my 2021 Frigidaire FFTR2045VB0 would run 9-10 seconds, and then a loud click. Every 3 minutes - same thing happened. The freezer was 41 degrees. I will be taking the relay off tomorrow... I can see where this is going so ... I'll just say THANK YOU now.
Hey Dave you have number1 compressor brand on that unit man, I'm 18yrs on fridge repairs I'm busy in such a way that i couldn't even hv time to create my UA-cam channel but today i created my info episode......keep it up bro all the best.
Thanks Dave. Your video was the best I have come across and I was able to confirm that my starter relay was bad. We are having a bad freeze here in Houston and keep on loosing power. One of the times the power came back on, the cooling on the fridge stopped. Because of the freeze I just put my food outside. Not ideal but its working and yes.....it's secured from animals.
Great video! This gives me somewhere to start checking on my refrigerator that recently stopped cooling and freezing. Good thing it's not my main refrigerator.
Great video. Your step by step approach is easy to follow and understand. Thanks for putting this together, it really helped me figure out what was wrong with mine.
Very informative and useful video. I had same problem 2 years ago after a local electricity cut off, after 10. In inspecting , the LG man said replace it with new one the six years old the side by side. We kept it on and forgot about it, after awhile noticed it had started working. Just recently due to massive heat wave, the problem returned. I can not repair it myself but I live in London and happy to pay to replace the relays and / or capacitor. Shado
Dude, you da man!! a flat box of frozen mussels blocked the air flow over the coils in the freezer side, and it was a block of ice. Made my day. Thanks!! We Dave's rock (especially you).
Fun fact - The job of a refrigeration unit is to absorb heat and blow it away. What is left is cooler/colder air. They don't actually 'make' cold air, it's just what happens when excess heat is absorbed and gotten rid of.
That's half way true... As an HVAC tech I can tell you that the refrigerant inside the compressor changes from a liquid to gas state and it does indeed actually make coldness. While it is in a cold gas state, it absorbs the heat and removes it. So the answer is it both makes cold air and take the heat out at the same time.
Well it's even more interesting, when the compressed liquid goes to a gas state, it still doesn't make cold, it just expands. So the same amount of heat energy that was in a small amount of liquid, is now spread out over a much larger volume of gas (which is what drops the temperature - in fact, the amount of heat energy in a volume of stuff is what temperature _is_). Same reason spray on deodorant comes out cold
My ex husband is an HVAC tech. I wish I had a nickel for every time he said something doesn't make cold air it removes heat. Removing heat is how you make cold air. So yes, refrigerators make cold air, air conditioners blow cold air. It's silly to say something doesn't make cold, it removes heat. That's like saying don't turn left, turn away from right.
That's it, when anything flashes from a liquid to a vapor, or a solid to a vapor it absorbs heat. Refrigeration 101.... Compressor compresses the refrigerant into a high pressure gas, condenser turns it to a high pressure liquid, when it reaches the evaporator it passes through a small orifice and flashes to a low pressure liquid/vapor mixture as it passes through the evaporator changing to a low pressure gas/vapor is when it absorbs heat. When the refrigerant Runs through the condenser it blows that heat off. This cycle repeats until the temp control is satisfied then shuts off.
Professional appliance tech here, Great video only thing I would add it if you change the relay, change the capacitor with it, or vice versa, it's always good to get with fresh starting starting components on a older compressor something caused it to wear out one of them which means it was straining both.
Thank you for making this video! I watched a bunch of videos, but almost everyone I watched was about a refrigerator that did not seem to run. Mine problem is exactly as yours was in this video. I'll be ordering my part next! thanks again
Thank you so much for this video. I had the same issue, ordered the start relay and capacitor from Amazon and they worked perfectly. My Frigidaire refrigerator is working beautifully again. Thanks again.
The capacitor is used to excite the heavy motor into rotation and also suppress any arcing across the relay contacts. The cap’s 250V is merely its maximum rating.
Broh, i really want to thank you for your help. Idk if i fixed my unit or not, but i found a problem in the same part yours was broken in. I took it apart after i couldn't get the top two plugs to show continuity. There was this little coin thin in there and it was rusted (also kinda burnt) so i cleaned, put it back together, tested and got continuity all around. Now I'm just waiting to see if things cool. I'm really hoping you saved me some money, but at least I learned a little something and, who knows, maybe I'll be my wife's hero for once. Thanks brother!
As per other commentors, Dave, you've done a great job on this video, particularly with editing in the closeup shots. Thank you for taking time to do this. Now I have to see if any of these points apply to the Electrolux here. Both freezer and fridge compartments are too warm even with the temperature setting dials set to max.
Awesome man. My uncle got me a LG fridge when I moved in his apartment and I noticed couple days ago defrosted food and warm fridge and thus here I am. But your checklist and symptom is exactly as I am experiencing right now - the compressor comes on but after a loud click, shuts off. I'm gonna save this video and thoroughly check my switch. Hoping it's that and not yet compressor ! Cheers !
Thank you! Thanks for the step by step and list of what to check. After cleaning the bottom coils, which was caked on the front, I took the panel out of the freezer and found a large block of ice around the freezer thermostat. Five minutes with a hair dryer did it. It's back together and the freezer panel is freezing cold, so we'll watch it for a few days. When you wife opted for the new frig I thought you were going to say you opted for a new wife instead. Only kidding, until I saw the kids bike in the background. Hey, thank you! You're an excellent educator.
No. It won’t. Supco 3 in 1s provide ZERO thermal protection for your compressor. They rely on amp draw to pretend to “thermally” protect your compressor and in most appliances, the thermal overload is part of the start relay or is held onto the compressor by the electrical cover for the compressor. Teaching home owners to use them is a disaster waiting to happen. Also, his compressor has a run capacitor, not a start capacitor. 3 in 1s are start capacitor/start relay combos with a half assed overload sized for a range of horsepower compressors.
@@jman0870 With all due respect... 1) You know all of this how? What is your background / credentials? 2) Also (FYI) the supco specs (on their website) states that the part is for "refrigeration systems with or without run capacitors"
@@jotu173 Does it state with or without start capacitors? Why would you install a start capacitor on a low back pressure compressor? Do you like damaging compressor motors? My credentials are I do this for a living.
@@jman0870 Your credentials are pretty vague as a lot of people with almost ZERO actual credentials ( and / or very limited experience) "do it for a living". I'm asking you about specific credentials like 1) How long have you been "doing this" and 2)in what capacity? 3) Do you have an EPA (UNIVERSALLY certified technician) "608 card"? 4) Did you graduate from a trade or vocational school?
@@jotu173 if you can’t tell that I’m qualified to weigh in on this topic simply by reading my reply and researching it yourself then no amount of credentials, experience, or qualifications will validate anything I say to you. I honestly couldn’t care less. 🤷♂️
Thanks for the video, gave me the insight of what to look for. I'll be attempting a repair and I'll let you know how I make out. Now you have a beer fridge for your garage, that's always a good thing.
Well ill be dammed !!!. you my friend!, just saved me like 800$. Thank you so much!. So ill update here as now, its been 24 hours and the refrigerator runs like a champ!
Shit what state do u live in that they charge all that money i charge 15 dollars to check them and its a relay i put a 3 in 1 and charge 85 dollars i live in the wrong state
My garage refrigerator stopped working. Fan was working but not the compressor. I followed your instructions and ordered a relay switch and capacitor from Amazon for $20, and now it's working fine.
Thank you so much. I didn't know how much a repair guy would charge, so I was thinking of trashing it. Thanks to you, it's working now.
Repairman here. Would have most likely cost $150 - $300 depending on your area. Somewhere in that range. Glad you got it fixed!
I had a guy charge me $300 saying he gave me a deal wish i saw this video cuz the part was only 8.99 on amazon😢
@@Queenjess69 he probably did. I wouldn't doubt if some repairmen charge 5-600 as that's about how much all the food in there would cost.
@ImmaSaveUFromMe no a repairman will cost around a 100 dollars to come out and diagnose it.... then any part cost in this case 50 dollars and an hour labor at 60 dollars an hour... looking at just over 200 bucks
@@jackz.4868some areas they charge over 100 an hour and diagnostic fee is much higher
Thank you! Because of your video I was able to diagnose and fix my freezer. I'm a 67 yr old woman.
Absolutely gold!
😊
Doesn't mean you're helpless!
My baby sister has 3 Harleys, does near all her own wrenching on bikes, mowers, truck and house. She's 65.
I only have 1 Harley. 😢
I'm a refrigerator tech and I must say your explanation is on the mark ..welldone
Our Whirlpool refrigerator stopped working after a power outage.. the lights & fans come on but the cooling & freezer isnt working. Could it be a bad Start Relay or Capicator? Or could it be the main circuit board? Thanks
How to fix your customers appliances youtube 😂
Deeforstomsystom fee normal fee modrl frdeokdrpanding ok fsn not working not coolinv ok normsl normsl fee fan working circultinv ok
I changed 3 parts and it's still not working. Am I out of coolant or something?
hi noel I have a question I changed both start relay and capacitor lasted a week now its clicking again in your professional opinion what else can cause this I have ge profile French door freezer on the bottom thanks in advance
With the help of your video it saved me spending $2000 on a new fridge. It was the compressor start relay. Thanks for the help much appreciated.
who the hell spends $2000 on a fridge?
@@ThePolaroid669 People that have $2000 to spend on a fridge....
@@jordanniagara3131 I think he meant $200 on a fridge, assuming it is only used at home.
@@ThePolaroid669Rich people and those keeping up with the Joneses.
This video gave me hope. My old refrigerator died less than a year ago, so my local veteran's outreach group had a member who had a used refrigerator sitting in his storage unit taking up space, so he donated it to me, for which I am eternally grateful. Then a couple of days ago it suddenly stopped cooling--lost probably $200 worth of food in the freezer alone. It's a nice late-model Whirlpool side-by-side, too. I think having a repairman come look at it would be preferable to trying to replace it--I could never afford to replace a fridge as nice as this one. This video makes me realize it would be worth having a professional look at it (I'm elderly and very disabled) rather than buying another used fridge. It could be something as simple as the mice chewed through a wire or a broken relay. Thank you so much!
You saved another Whirlpool from the trip to the junk yard. Replaced the fancy relay but not the cap. My local appliance parts vendor said this was a commonly replaced part and the cap very rarely needs replacing. My fridg, with it's bottom freezer, also had Very dirty coils mounted across the bottom near the floor. Had to empty it so I could tilt it and properly remove the dust from the coils. Once all sealed up it took awhile for temp to drop because all the food was so warm. So far so good!
Same here, but I wanted to mention, my relay tested fine, but I replaced it on a hunch after testing the capacitor…. Works like a champ! $20. So consider trying a new relay even if the old one tests!
Dave, I feel your pain. The part I got tickled with is where the fridge showed up in the garage because your wife decided you were getting a new one. DIY guys like us are so underappreciated. I have an old Maytag upright freezer that suddenly decided to get a little warm. This time, I went and bought a new freezer without even diagnosing the problem. But, I'm going to try to fix it and give it to my little sister from another mister or my wife's little sister to make things more clear. Don't get discouraged. Keep up the great work and good luck in the future!!!
After watching a dozen videos and several Google explanations, this video was the only one that fully explained that both bottom terminals on the start relay should have continuity with starter relay removed. My symptom was no compressor start up but 5.4 amps draw, then relay clicked off. I disassembled mine after finding no continuity. I noticed the disk inside (no electronics board) was burned only on one side. I decided to flip the disc 180° and continuity returned. I reinstalled the starter and capacitor to test compressor power up. It worked fantastic! I will be replacing the starter only as capacitor tested good. Thank you for you thorough explanations.
Your video is 14.5 minutes long but I haven't watched it for up to 1 minute when I realized I'm watching the right video. This, is the best diagnosis UA-cam video I ever watched. Thanks for taking your time to make this.
I guess you could feel that way if you don’t know shit from shinola about refrigeration like this guy, let’s just hope he doesn’t hurt himself and sticks to his day job !
@@nunyabusiness6746 nobody likes a smartass
Wayfaerer Who the hell rattled your cage?
Hey Dave! I loved the walkthrough. You are a natural teacher, clear and precise. Thanks! I just defrosted the freezer. The evaporator and condenser fans are working and blowing cold air and freezing. However, the cooler isn't really cooling much. Also, I can't hear the condenser buzzing, so as you show, it could be a relay or capacitor problem. Perhaps the condenser is only half working. Great video!
Agreed, great video!
Incredible! We don't have a lot of money and I have been searching everywhere to get layman's terms and you nailed it! Thank you, not just from me, but from my family!
Unfortunately, turns out to be the compressor, but glad I learned this!
I'm a training appliance repairmen and honestly this video really helped me understand not only how to check voltages on the compressor units, but you actually did what I wish my teacher would've done for me and go down a list of things that could not work, but do in this case. But I haven't been able to see many fridges yet.
Are you in HOUSTON?
hi Dave I love your lesson pleas I need to get the lesson for how to change compressor and how to vacuum it without vacuum pump
@@kennedyokwera4857😮
@@kennedyokwera4857nĵ😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
I just fixed mine, thanks to your video! Yes, it was the same issue, the compressor start relay. First I removed it, jotted down the #s, did searches, found out they are out of stock, out of production everywhere. But after looking really close at one on Amazon, I noticed it looked exactly the same as mine (the same shapes, same plug shapes, and it was the same brand)..so I bought it (about $78) plugged it in and whammo! I just ordered another one so when and if it breaks again I'll have one. My fridge was made in 2005, so the original lasted 17 years. I did some cleaning in the coils while under there also (they need to be kept free of dust and dirt). I intend to buy a special brush made for fitting in between the coils but for now I just used my compressed air system's blow hose. Mine is a Frigidaire model FRS6R4 EW2, the original part which is now obsolete had these #s on it: 3ARR55C4E2A and is part # 241543958. The new start relay is a Frigidaire part # 241524611 "compressor start relay", it got here in one day Amazon Prime. I used the original capacitor, it fit the new start relay exactly and apparently it was fine. Bottom line: if you have searched the part # for yours everywhere and it can not be found, just search your brand name and "start relay" on Amazon and look at each one, it helps to have your original in your hand for close examination.
Thanks for your advice
This was a good video explaining what to check in a no cool situation in a refer. The only thing I would add as a 40 year refer tech(Whirlpool/Sub Zero) is that the compressor sounded noisy after the start relay was installed. The compressor may be going bad and a good check is to put a amp probe on the wiring and see what the compressor is drawing in amps. Overall this video tells you what to look for. Great to see these type of video's helping consumers
@Salvadore Orozco Great question I look for about 3 or 4 amps on startup and about 1 to 3 amps on run. If you have higher amps the compressor will probably fail shortly I also carry a hard start kit which may extend life of compressor
Salvadore Orozco There should be a sticker on the compressor with information including the RLA, that’s the “ rated load amps”, that is about what you should see for current draw for that particular compressor. Invest in a clamp amp if this interests you, it’s a good tool to have along with a VOM. See the difference between 40 years experience and 45 years experience.
Joe Yelda Wow are you off, start amps are much higher, as a rule of thumb start amps are around 5 times the run amps, and they are usually given on the label on the compressor.
Hi Dave! I watched the video and you are really good explaining how to fix!
I have a whirlpool fridge!
My frizzer works fine (bottom frizzer)
But the refrigerator doesn’t work!
Do you think my fridge problem is the same as yours?
Please LMK
Thank you 😊 BTW in case you think I didn’t writing ✍️ well
English is not my first language😊
@@nunyabusiness6746 I’ve only got 38 years of experience. I have learned that you cannot use the RLA value to determine the correct operating amperage. RLA is a mathematical calculation required to meet Underwriters Laboratories Inc. (UL) approval only.
You can use the amperage rating for that compressor either located on the compressor or from the manufacture. Since the start windings are only energized for a few seconds, there is no real near to determine the amps at start for troubleshooting. The Amperage of the run windings more useful in troubleshooting The ohms of both windings are also useful. In fact, ohms of the start windings is ideal vs amps of start. If a compressor is running, the start windings are fine. Easy peasy. But what do I know with only 38 years experience.
You are one of the best tutors ever, everything you presented was straight and easy to follow! Please give us more videos! Thanks.
Rance here, my refer quit cooling ran across your video… have two things to say…THANK You, THANK YOU, THANK YOU,,THANK YOU… my Refrigerator is working! Thanks to you….I will tell you again THANK YOU..
Dave Wirth, this video really helped me. Was able to diagnose and fix my 15 yr old LG fridge for 10 bucks. It was a bad starter relay and protection combo. The multimeter tests you showed were super helpful. You saved me a couple thousand bucks for a new fridge.
Best self help video I've seen so far! Straight and to the point. Thanks for showing how to check things with the meter. Super helpful!
This is an outstanding video. I"m a DIYer also and this was SO easy to follow. Being curious about circuits, I wanted to see inside that start relay and Dave came through and showed it.
If you understand how a refrigerator (or air conditioner) compressor starts up at each run cycle, it makes more sense that the start capacitor would be bad because that capacitor gives the compressor the extra electrical kick it needs to get it started. Most relays either work or they don't (at all), so I immediately suspected the start capacitor and not the start relay. In this case (and in most newer fridges), the start capacitor is plugged into the start relay and the start relay is then plugged into the compressor, and that means the start capacitor can become electrically disconnected from the compressor if the start relay circuit is damaged. This would prevent the start capacitor from supplying the electrical boost that the compressor needs to start up.
This video convinced me that my nearly new fridge probably needs a new start relay. Mine uses the same type of setup as Dave's does, with the start capacitor plugged into the start relay which is plugged into the compressor - so I'm pretty confident Dave just helped me solve my problem.
Great video! Direct to the point. Mine is doing the exact same thing. I am taking the part to my friend the electrician and he is going to test it for me! I hope my fix is as easy as yours is! The cleanup took me all afternoon. But so much better than buying a new fridge! I am a single woman and I really appreciate helpful, no fluff videos like yours ! Thank you
Mine was the start relay. Had all the same symptoms. Part cost me about 65 and the place I bought it tested my capacitor and it was good. Took less than 10 minutes to take off the old one and put on the new one. 👍
Thanks Dave! After watching your video, I replace the start relay, and my old fridge is working great! You saved me from spending a couple of thousand dollars to buy a new fridge!
After so many years you start to love that compressor sound. It's so calming and relaxing!
Compressors have a distinctive tinny sound when there running.
Even though there are many praises for you, I still want to say that you are the best! Clear, easy to understand, and most of all, I fixed my refrigerator.
Thank you!
Voltage rating on a capacitor doesn't mean it's giving the compressor a shot of that voltage - it's the maximum voltage it will handle without shorting.
Came to the comments to see this comment. Thank u sir! Capacitors don’t increase voltage they simply hold a charge and are rated for up to a certain voltage
How can to contact U
I have the same "basic" multimeter as in this video and do not understand the logic / explanation on how he validated the capacitor was "good" / "not the issue". Any feedback, please?
The best explaination out of 20 previous opinions. I was able to determine it was the relay by testing with the basic meter. I appreciate it.
Best video I’ve seen so far . Great job explaining how to troubleshoot a refrigerator not working properly.
Thanks for all the good info! I’m working on a Kenmore freezer right now… unfortunately I think it’s the control board and/or the thermostat because the inside light comes on but the rest of it is drawing zero power
You saved my refrigerator from the landfill. Very grateful for your post!
Nicely done. My whirlpool ‘side by side’ stopped freezing and cooling after we unplugged fridge to defrost. I noticed that the rear bottom blower fan was working and blowing air into freezer and cooler section of fridge however, compressor would not turn on and now I know exactly what problem may be and it’s not that expensive to fix. Thanks!
Great Job. Coming from an leading electrical engineer in the industry for 30 years.
Hello Dave, this is a great video! It is greatly appreciated to see someone adding a list of things to check because it makes the diagnosis so much easier. Fix everything until it is unfixable. In Europe the appliances are much better quality and we have to demand that in North America. Thank you!
That is a helpful and informative video. I recently just fixed my Maytag refrigerator which is a 2013 model. it's very similar to your compressor setup. mine ended up being a bad start capacitor. mine was melting on the floor like yours.
One thing I'd like to note when you were doing your continuity test you had your multimeter set wrong, you had it set on the diode test. You just have to select the resistance scale on your meter to check for continuity
My problem isn't like yours but I see so many techs commenting that I thought someone may see what I'm missing.
Our 2013 LG LFX33975 french-door refrigerator was purchased 1/2014 and cooling has always been warmer than whatever it's set for in both the fridge and freezer.
I opted for the 3 year LG Premium Care extended warranty for a little over $300 and after that LG only offered a 2 year plan and the price increased to about $500, but we bought it anyway. Good thing too since shortly after re-enrolling, everything in the freezer suddenly melted in April 2017. After almost 2 weeks, a tech finally arrived and said it needed a compressor, a drier, and condenser. He ordered the parts and left. The parts arrived and a week later a different tech arrived and said it only needed a circuit board so he took the parts with him.
I don’t recall if we had to wait for the board, but I think he had one. After that, the fridge was the coldest it had ever been at 38 degrees.
Then in August 2018 it wouldn’t get any colder than 50 degrees so after another 2 weeks a tech came out and said something about a large plastic center section being updated so again the part was ordered and eventually installed. That lowered the temp to 40 which is what it’s been since the day I plugged it in except for the time mentioned above where it hit 38.
Anyway, one day everything melted in the freezer again and the fridge seemed stuck at 50 so I again called for service but by the time a tech came out, the fridge seemed to be back to normal so the tech didn’t find a problem.
I had a repeat of that in June 2019 but this time I was told I’d have to pay for the service call if no problem was found. Like the other time, the fridge normalized by the time they called in mid-July to schedule the service call so I just cancelled. Since the extended warranty seemed to have been a waste of money, and the coverage offered was reduced to yearly while increasing the price, I let the coverage go.
Well it’s August 2022 and for the past few weeks we’ve been noticing the milk has been starting to go bad way before the expiration dates, the assumption being the store may not have been refrigerating ‘em promptly after arrival, but then a few days later we noticed water on the floor.
The fridge had a 50 degree temp and the freezer was about 20 degrees. A Google search said it had a blocked drain line so I took the large plastic center section out and I didn’t see any ice but the tray was full of very cold water. I left the fridge unplugged for a day but the drain was still plugged so I tried poking some thin plastic tubing from an air shock into the tube but kept hitting an obstruction so I tried going upward as well from the back of the fridge, same obstruction. While contemplating my next move, I found the water had drained and the plastic tubing no longer found any obstructions.
After a day of normalizing the fridge, the lowest it would go is 46 degrees and 11 for the freezer so I looked at the board, nothing on the LED. I pressed the test button once and heard a single beep 3x. Both the upper and lower fans in that large plastic panel in the fridge started up and the front display was fully lighted. The compressor and the fan next to it were running as well but the test cycle lasted about 5 minutes before shutting everything off except the interior lights and the front panel resumed normal function like when a door is closed. At that point the fridge was 50 degrees and the freezer was 29 degrees. A few minutes later, the compressor started again. At that point the compressor felt hotter than usual. I should say the compressor is also quieter than it was when new.
I pressed the test button 2x, heard a double beep 3x, the front displayed 22 and 22, and everything started running again. Again everything shut down after about 5 minutes and the display returned to normal. Almost another 5 minutes passed and then I could hear the two fans in the fridge start, a minute or two later the fan next to the compressor started and finally the compressor again.
Pressing the test button 3x didn’t reset the fridge as expected but just shut down all the moving components and the front displayed 33 and 33. After 5 minutes I heard a click but everything remained dead silent. Another 5 minutes passed before the fans inside started and then another 5 minutes passed before the compressor started again. So the total time to resume was 15 minutes after the test button was pressed 3x. I’m guessing that last test activated the thaw cycle because after the 10 minute mark where the fans inside started, I saw the puddle under the drain tube move and I heard erratic type sounds like water sizzling in a hot pan.
I noticed the fridge said it had “Smart Diagnosis” so I found the procedure in the manual and called LG. I had to ask for it and was then transferred to a tech that didn’t speak English very well. I was instructed to lock the panel and press some buttons while holding the phone up to the speaker in the top right hinge until the series of squeals stopped and then the guy asked for the temps before concluding it needed a compressor.
Since the compressor has 2 years left on the 10 year warranty, he texted a couple places to call but labor would be on me. The first place was the place that has been here many times but they said they no longer service LG. The next place said $800 if the compressor was all that was needed. I called LG again for more options and they texted 3 more. The first said $500-700 but they were 60 miles away and didn’t service my area. The next one was just a guy's name and when called, it said “call rejected.” The last one was 250 miles away so obviously that would be a waste of time.
It’s a shame this model was included in the class action lawsuit that was settled. The date of manufacturer and history of problems matched perfectly.
I looked up how to replace a compressor and honestly it doesn’t look that bad since I’ve been doing A/C work on vehicles for over 40 years and it’s only R-134a so I have a vacuum pump to evacuate and a manifold set to charge it but then I read about the board will need updating so I guess that’s out. I’m beginning to think the problem may not even be a compressor issue so I thought I’d seek opinions before having to go into debt for another refrigerator.
Consumer Reports says for 34” and wider, the top 4 models are LG, for 31-33 inch, the top 2 are LG, and for 30 inch and narrower, the top 2 are again LG. Maybe the problems were fixed but I guess time will tell. ($4500 for #1) Samsung rated poorly with 45 fridges rated better, mostly LG, but Samsung has failed me on all my other appliances, which seems to align with CR, so I’d rather find the problem with this LFX33975 if possible. Any thoughts?
UPDATE: I decided to install a $5 piercing valve (BPV31) on the low side to check the R134a pressure but never realized how terrible my R134a manifold gauges are when reading low PSI.
I even took a picture so I could enlarge it but it didn’t help. All I know is when running, the needle barely moved from 0 and about hit a high of 28 PSI after sitting off for a while.
I gambled with an evacuation, put a vacuum on it for an hour and then let it sit for another hour with the vacuum off. The vacuum maintained so I vacuumed again and slowly allowed some R134a back in while still unplugged and at some point I let the compressor slowly take it in while frequently noting the PSI pressure. The moment the high side started feeling warm, I unplugged it to let the system equalize. The final recharge ended up being a little less than 40 PSI and temps in the fridge cooled down to 39F, and the freezer cooled to 3F so for not knowing what I was doing, I got lucky. That’s the coldest the freezer has ever been and the fridge part is about the same or lower than we’ve experienced since we bought this new in 2014. And I still have some R134a left in that little can I picked up at Walmart for less than $10 so the fridge came back to life for less than $20, which means LG was wrong about it needing a compressor.
Thanks bud all the way from UK it did the trick
Thanks so much. I was able to fix my refrigerator by myself because of your video. Total out of pocket cost $10 for the part. Appreciate your video.
Thanks my man. People like you that help other people are very much appreciated.. Your the best.
I'm about to try taking out the relay and capacitor and relay for testing. I just wanted to tell you what a great job you did describing the symptoms and taking us through a checklist! Thank you so much!
Flawless video. I'll be doing this tomorrow. I think you just saved me $1500! You're a natural and so direct and to the point.Love it when my time isn't wasted. Thank you sir!
Some charged me 120 just work one hour the relay he put doesn't work anymore u think the guy doesn't know everything about it I'll do my self
Thank you Dave, I replaced the relay on my GE. Refrigerator & saved having to buy a new one . Much thanks!!!
I'm with Minh Leu... you are a fantastic teacher. I've seen factory videos on how to do something, and your video was better. You really have a talent for putting yourself in the mindset of the audience and helps us understand everything you were teaching us. Thanks so much! (Now, if you'll just do one or replacing the AC compressor in a 2007 Saturn Vue, you can take the rest of the day off.
Thank you so much. I’m going to check out the neighbors refrigerator this morning. Whether this helps on this project or not remains to be seen. You have made a great video Dave. Thanks again 😊
331 downvotes must be repairmen that overcharge! Excellent video!
It’s Saturday evening n my renter calls about their refrig not cooling. Your vid was perfectly laid out for troubleshooting the problem. Many Thx Dave!
The best refrigerator repair video on UA-cam! 5:38 Mine was rattling and when i opened it, i found a burnt mark with some kind of disintegrated metal bits and pieces.
I was about to buy a new fridge until I saw your video, my fridge had the same problem, the compresor will kick on, then turn off, and I would hear the click, I am pretty handy with tools so after seeing your video, now I know what it is!!!! Thank you so much for taking the time to make these video, I feel like I owe you money!!!
This video helped me out a lot. I appreciate the in depth instruction. I can't afford a new fridge/freezer right now and you helped save us the service fee and learn something new in the process :)
Same part number and rplasing phcal checking and cap 15 mfd bad or good check good ok broad replaing damge d ok reparing and other replacking set ..
I like the way you put this video together, it's genuine and clear thinking. It was interesting to see the guts of the relay, obviously containing a series of capacitors, diodes, and at least one MOSFET. The days of the simple PTC or current relay are almost gone. I also like the way you searched for the exact replacement part. In the pro world, people won't accept a delay of a couple of weeks to get an exact match, so many carry a so called "3 in 1 hard start kit" on the truck, containing a generic relay, an overload switch, and a capacitor. Those kits are cheaper but are not nearly as reliable or as durable as the OEM version, and they don't necessarily balance the load properly. However by being a general solution, repair guys can get the fridge working within minutes, and if it doesn't work there is no delay. With a quick solution it is easier to resist the pressure to buy another fridge right away, but sometimes the compressor fails a few months later.
Thanks so much! Your diagnostic steps helped us fix a similar GE frig. We’re very grateful since repair service is very hard to schedule due to COVID. Feels so good to fix it ourselves!
Thank you for this. It was exactly what my fridge was doing and bought the parts of amazon for under $10. It's working again so you saved me the cost of a new fridge.
Very good video with information well explained. I've dealt with evaporator dripping water issue (which froze at the bottom of the fridge and my drawer was stuck). This is a new knowledge so I can get well prepared.
Well Done. I changed the relay and the capacitor cleaned it and it’s running like a champ. Cost of parts $12.00
Hello from Oregon! Did you order from Amazon, by chance??
Hello Dave, Thank you for your knowledge and clear instruction for troubleshooting, both in easy to understand verbal communication and detailed visual aids! Our Frigidaire refrig/with lower freezer is only 11 years old and still in such wonderful shape that it is hard to think about replacing it, especially when items are so often delayed due to extenuating supply chain circumstances. I'll be working on this now and here's hoping it will be back up and running in no time! Appreciation abounds, sincerely!
Great Job Dave 🧰 This is one of the most thorough DIY fridge diagnosis vids I’ve watched. Without a doubt this video will save folks a ton of fridge service charge and replacement cost money 💰🙏🏼🤩
It just saved me lots of money.
You truly are the Best+,
I bought used fridge,,,, at first only freezer worked, than both fridge n freezer just stopped... I read the trouble shooting problem but had no clue how to diagnose the broken part.... 1st thing tomorrow I’m gonna follow your 4rules... thanks a million.
Thank you so much you saved me a bundle! One note, my new part took a different wiring harness that was an additional charge. It was easy enough to switch out but just thought I'd pass it along.
thanks Dave. i have a Frigidaire upright freezer. i hear a click every 20-seconds and i found a burn mark on the controller relay kit. i am going to replace both the capacitor and the relay.
THANK YOU SO MUCH! EXACTLY WHAT I NEEDED TO KNOW AND I REPLACED THE STARTER RELAY AND ALL IS BACK TO NORMAL
Thank you so much. I cannot repair it as I am disabled but I don't want to be taken advantage of when the repair man gets here. So, now I know to ask about the relay and the capacitor. Thank you sooo much!!!!!
Was able to fix my refrigerator from this video the checklist was really helpful cost me 50 bucks five stars
It’s Saturday evening n my renter calls about their refrig not cooling.
Thanks for this guide and I am going through my frigidaire fridge [looks just like yours].
Thank you Dave that was awesome I eventually had this problem at first I would hear a snapping sound at least 8-10 times a day until this relay failed, I then replaced both the relay and capacitor at the same time since both had to be removed at the same time anyway
Order an extra set. These are “ no longer available” after 8 years. They want you to buy a new unit. All manufacturers do it on GE’s original mandate. If and when they are no longer available, use a 3 n 1 hard start start/run capacitor. Not pretty but they work great. Not expensive either.
Thank you so much. It’s amazing how you explained the problem in details. It looks as if a professor is explaining the problem in a college class room. Again thank you sir.
even though i knew you had the fridge unplugged, when you were installing that support wire that locks in the relay/cap to the compressor and suddenly went into fast-forward mode while your hands were in close proximity to all those electrical components (around 12:00 ), i heard a buzzing right away and it still made me jump a little! :) great video, thanks!
Thank you dude, after scrolling for a while, I finally found a video that explains everything perfectly, with explanations as to why you're troubleshooting each part!
Thank you for making this video! I was able to fix my fridge within 24 hours!
You saved me a lot of money. Both parts were less than $30 and now my fridge is working again.
Great video, even called a local repair guy *$85 service call to verify that it was not just the capacity (black box), but proably regulator too or even compressor. Ordered both and plugged them in, but didn't initially fix the problem because the plug came off when I pushed it on the compressor. I didn't see the plug come off until I went back to take it off to return it (Amazon returns). The plug was exactly like the original, but did eventually go on with extra force and stayed.
D.W. Great analysis & video - my 2021 Frigidaire FFTR2045VB0 would run 9-10 seconds, and then a loud click. Every 3 minutes - same thing happened. The freezer was 41 degrees. I will be taking the relay off tomorrow... I can see where this is going so ... I'll just say THANK YOU now.
Well, I did every thing, replaced the same start relay and got it put in and it lasted 2 weeks. Any suggestions?
Hey Dave you have number1 compressor brand on that unit man, I'm 18yrs on fridge repairs I'm busy in such a way that i couldn't even hv time to create my UA-cam channel but today i created my info episode......keep it up bro all the best.
Thanks Dave. Your video was the best I have come across and I was able to confirm that my starter relay was bad. We are having a bad freeze here in Houston and keep on loosing power. One of the times the power came back on, the cooling on the fridge stopped. Because of the freeze I just put my food outside. Not ideal but its working and yes.....it's secured from animals.
Same here in Kentucky
Great video! This gives me somewhere to start checking on my refrigerator that recently stopped cooling and freezing.
Good thing it's not my main refrigerator.
Great video. Your step by step approach is easy to follow and understand. Thanks for putting this together, it really helped me figure out what was wrong with mine.
Good fix. Even if I don't fix it, I can call a service person with knowledge and not get an unneeded, expensive part.
Thank you-your explanation and diagnosis is very easy to understand, Good job!
Very informative and useful video. I had same problem 2 years ago after a local electricity cut off, after 10. In inspecting , the LG man said replace it with new one the six years old the side by side. We kept it on and forgot about it, after awhile noticed it had started working. Just recently due to massive heat wave, the problem returned. I can not repair it myself but I live in London and happy to pay to replace the relays and / or capacitor. Shado
Excellent diagnostic and troubleshooting. Excellent repair 👍
Dude, you da man!! a flat box of frozen mussels blocked the air flow over the coils in the freezer side, and it was a block of ice. Made my day. Thanks!! We Dave's rock (especially you).
Fun fact - The job of a refrigeration unit is to absorb heat and blow it away. What is left is cooler/colder air. They don't actually 'make' cold air, it's just what happens when excess heat is absorbed and gotten rid of.
It’s why I want to ditch ammonia and hydrogen charged absorption refrigerator and get a compressor driven unit. Absorption units take so long to cool.
That's half way true... As an HVAC tech I can tell you that the refrigerant inside the compressor changes from a liquid to gas state and it does indeed actually make coldness. While it is in a cold gas state, it absorbs the heat and removes it. So the answer is it both makes cold air and take the heat out at the same time.
Well it's even more interesting, when the compressed liquid goes to a gas state, it still doesn't make cold, it just expands. So the same amount of heat energy that was in a small amount of liquid, is now spread out over a much larger volume of gas (which is what drops the temperature - in fact, the amount of heat energy in a volume of stuff is what temperature _is_). Same reason spray on deodorant comes out cold
My ex husband is an HVAC tech. I wish I had a nickel for every time he said something doesn't make cold air it removes heat. Removing heat is how you make cold air. So yes, refrigerators make cold air, air conditioners blow cold air. It's silly to say something doesn't make cold, it removes heat. That's like saying don't turn left, turn away from right.
That's it, when anything flashes from a liquid to a vapor, or a solid to a vapor it absorbs heat. Refrigeration 101.... Compressor compresses the refrigerant into a high pressure gas, condenser turns it to a high pressure liquid, when it reaches the evaporator it passes through a small orifice and flashes to a low pressure liquid/vapor mixture as it passes through the evaporator changing to a low pressure gas/vapor is when it absorbs heat. When the refrigerant Runs through the condenser it blows that heat off. This cycle repeats until the temp control is satisfied then shuts off.
Professional appliance tech here, Great video only thing I would add it if you change the relay, change the capacitor with it, or vice versa, it's always good to get with fresh starting starting components on a older compressor something caused it to wear out one of them which means it was straining both.
Thank you for making this video! I watched a bunch of videos, but almost everyone I watched was about a refrigerator that did not seem to run. Mine problem is exactly as yours was in this video. I'll be ordering my part next! thanks again
Thank you so much for this video. I had the same issue, ordered the start relay and capacitor from Amazon and they worked perfectly. My Frigidaire refrigerator is working beautifully again. Thanks again.
The capacitor is used to excite the heavy motor into rotation and also suppress any arcing across the relay contacts. The cap’s 250V is merely its maximum rating.
No. It’s not. It’s a run capacitor and has nothing to do with starting that compressor 🤣
Broh, i really want to thank you for your help. Idk if i fixed my unit or not, but i found a problem in the same part yours was broken in. I took it apart after i couldn't get the top two plugs to show continuity. There was this little coin thin in there and it was rusted (also kinda burnt) so i cleaned, put it back together, tested and got continuity all around. Now I'm just waiting to see if things cool.
I'm really hoping you saved me some money, but at least I learned a little something and, who knows, maybe I'll be my wife's hero for once.
Thanks brother!
Thanks for this video. You saved my Rs 4K :) The starter relay costed Rs 100 . Thanks again.
Well done! That was the problem! $20 fix, for my 20 year old model. Here's to 20 more years! Thank you for your efforts!
🤣🤣🤣 She said she don't give a fart we are getting a new one. So someone else will appreciate that you fixed it.👊
Thank you for the walk-through instructions on how to repair the refrigerator now I just gotta order my part for my refrigerator
Have a good day
As per other commentors, Dave, you've done a great job on this video, particularly with editing in the closeup shots. Thank you for taking time to do this. Now I have to see if any of these points apply to the Electrolux here. Both freezer and fridge compartments are too warm even with the temperature setting dials set to max.
Awesome man. My uncle got me a LG fridge when I moved in his apartment and I noticed couple days ago defrosted food and warm fridge and thus here I am. But your checklist and symptom is exactly as I am experiencing right now - the compressor comes on but after a loud click, shuts off. I'm gonna save this video and thoroughly check my switch. Hoping it's that and not yet compressor ! Cheers !
Great video! It helped us repair our "backup" frig and saved us a ton.
FINALLY SOMEONE EXPLAINS HOW TO TEST THE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS. GREAT VIDEO
Nice job, very thorough diagnosis. Thanks for explaining everything step by step. Great video.
Thank you! Thanks for the step by step and list of what to check. After cleaning the bottom coils, which was caked on the front, I took the panel out of the freezer and found a large block of ice around the freezer thermostat. Five minutes with a hair dryer did it. It's back together and the freezer panel is freezing cold, so we'll watch it for a few days. When you wife opted for the new frig I thought you were going to say you opted for a new wife instead. Only kidding, until I saw the kids bike in the background. Hey, thank you! You're an excellent educator.
I am fairly certain that a Supco "hard start kit" (Part# RCO410) would achieve the exact same results but would cost far less (roughly $12.50).
No. It won’t. Supco 3 in 1s provide ZERO thermal protection for your compressor. They rely on amp draw to pretend to “thermally” protect your compressor and in most appliances, the thermal overload is part of the start relay or is held onto the compressor by the electrical cover for the compressor. Teaching home owners to use them is a disaster waiting to happen. Also, his compressor has a run capacitor, not a start capacitor. 3 in 1s are start capacitor/start relay combos with a half assed overload sized for a range of horsepower compressors.
@@jman0870 With all due respect... 1) You know all of this how? What is your background / credentials? 2) Also (FYI) the supco specs (on their website) states that the part is for "refrigeration systems with or without run capacitors"
@@jotu173 Does it state with or without start capacitors? Why would you install a start capacitor on a low back pressure compressor? Do you like damaging compressor motors? My credentials are I do this for a living.
@@jman0870 Your credentials are pretty vague as a lot of people with almost ZERO actual credentials ( and / or very limited experience) "do it for a living". I'm asking you about specific credentials like 1) How long have you been "doing this" and 2)in what capacity? 3) Do you have an EPA (UNIVERSALLY certified technician) "608 card"? 4) Did you graduate from a trade or vocational school?
@@jotu173 if you can’t tell that I’m qualified to weigh in on this topic simply by reading my reply and researching it yourself then no amount of credentials, experience, or qualifications will validate anything I say to you. I honestly couldn’t care less. 🤷♂️
Thanks for the video, gave me the insight of what to look for. I'll be attempting a repair and I'll let you know how I make out. Now you have a beer fridge for your garage, that's always a good thing.
Well ill be dammed !!!. you my friend!, just saved me like 800$. Thank you so much!. So ill update here as now, its been 24 hours and the refrigerator runs like a champ!
Shit what state do u live in that they charge all that money i charge 15 dollars to check them and its a relay i put a 3 in 1 and charge 85 dollars i live in the wrong state
@@gregrangel9165
You should fix my LG Fridge
@@gregrangel9165 I think he meant the man saved him $800 to buy a new refrigerator in lu of fixing his old one.
P
Probably one of thee best videos on repairing the refrigerator