212cc Stage 2 Full Install | Governor Removal | Billet Flywheel & Rod | Hot .265 Cam | 22mm Mikuni
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- Опубліковано 23 лип 2024
- In this video we show you how to install a Go Power Sports stage 2 kit on a Tillotson 212. This procedure is very similar for all 212cc small engines so don't click away cause you bought a Predator!
The kit includes a billet flywheel and connecting rod from ARC, as well as a Hot .265 cam, new spark plug, and we added a 22mm Mikuni carburetor.
This set up should make 15+ horsepower and is absolutely gonna thrive in our Rascal.
Hope this video helps!
CHAPTERS:
00:00 Intro
01:34 Tear Down
08:45 Cam Removal
09:16 Push Rods/Lifters Removal
09:33 Crank Removal
11:52 Governor Removal
13:54 Connecting Rod Removal
15:13 Set Connecting Rod Bearings
20:33 Billet Connecting Rod Install
21:48 Crank Install
22:58 Torque Billet Rod
23:32 Push Rods and Lifters Install
24:13 Hot .265 Cam Install
25:28 Side Cover Install
28:46 Reset Valves
31:00 Billet Flywheel Install
36:32 Ignition Coil & Spark Plug Install
37:36 22mm Mikuni Install
420cc Predator Governor Removal:
• 420cc Predator Engine ...
212cc Tillotson Stage 2 Racer(high rpm power gain):
www.gopowersports.com/stage-2...
212cc Tillotson Stage 2 Cruiser(low rpm power gain):
www.gopowersports.com/stage-2...
212cc Hemi Predator Stage 2 Racer:
www.gopowersports.com/stage-2...
212cc Hemi Predator Stage 2 Cruiser:
www.gopowersports.com/stage-2...
212cc Non-Hemi Predator Stage 2 Racer:
www.gopowersports.com/stage-2...
212cc Non-Hemi Predator Stage 2 Cruiser:
www.gopowersports.com/stage-2...
22mm Mikuni:
www.gopowersports.com/22mm-mi...
1/4" Self Tapping Bolts:
www.gopowersports.com/self-ta...
Tillotson T4 Oil:
www.gopowersports.com/t4-raci... - Авто та транспорт
Just ordered my stage 2 racer kit today along with flat top piston and 22mm mikuni. I’m pumped to hear it run!. Nice video dude 👍
I would just like to say thank you for such a patient and very detailed video step by step by far a very great video on how to upgrade one of these 212 predator motors I think you’re doing an awesome job please keep going I look forward to the next great video from you guys thanks again!
Banging video learned alot from this .💪
much appreciated my man! glad I could help!
I'm new hear. Glad I came to watch.
Welcome my man!!
Bobby your farmers tan is killing me 😂😂😂😂. Please drag race it against the yerf dogs. I like the longer video style, it’s different but good 👍
Hahaha I noticed that too 🧑🌾
Dope video, keep up the good work. Sidenote: those bearings are dry fit, then lube upon assembly onto the crank.
Cant wait to see 🤙
🐍
Great video.
thank you!
Out of all these guys I watch building karts or even cars you guys have the coolest shop. Maybe you all could build a cool lift pneumatic or hydronic for your projects . No one else has one .lol
Thank you so much Mark! I love our shop! And that's a great idea!
@@TyranisCustoms hey any clue why I found a 3rd lash cap that fell out of my engine. And for some reason on my brand new 212 pred hemi the timing keep spinning and its spinning the ex rod as well??help
You need a ratchet like mine with a button to lock the sockets on. Makes a world of difference 🙌 and you can do a quick reload when you want another size just flick it and hold the button down socket flies off smack the next size on. Boom! 👌👨🏻🔧
I FEEEEEL that
@@TyranisCustoms do it! 😐 😆
Pretty good video. Sorted
Predator 212 and the Tillotson 212 are made by the same company Ducar so they should come apart the same
I feel like am watching velocity or something cause the camera quality is super good thanks for making these video s
When you initially installed the rod on the bench you don’t need to break in the bearings by spinning the crank or anything? Just tightening to spec to seat everything is all? I read comments on another video about breaking in the rod bearings. Thank you
Awesome! Let them ponies ROAR!
Very soon!!
@@TyranisCustoms YES! Can't wait buddy!
What part from go power sports to hold crank shaft when torque flywheel??
So... what's your valve to piston clearance??
Bro, Im having a hell of a time trying to knock this dang flywheel out from shaft. Any suggestions? Tia!
Have you ever stripped a bolt in that aluminum case?
What SIZE BOLT, DO I USE, IN THE SHAFT TO HOLD DOWN THE CLUTCH DOES ANY BODY KNOW??????
Only thing I would have done different is open the hole between your pins to help with blowback since your going up in power. She needs to drink.
Can you explain that another way? I think I get the concept, but which hole/where do you mean exactly?
@@TyranisCustoms RBG did similar upgrade but he opened up the hole between the valve pins I do believe that's the proper verbiage. It has something to do with more oil spashing if I remember correctly. Might DM him for better explanation.
That hole is just to drain oil back to case. Mostly used on circle karts
Magnet flywheel & charging coil for this build ?
Or am I dreaming ?
You. Need to check rod to crank clearance with plasti-gauge 25 thousands clearance spec for billet rod with clam shell bearings.
Otherwise great video production
Cam lobe to crank interference needs to be checked as well with a modified cut up side cover.
This will allow you to hold the crank in alignment as it rotates to have at least 10-20 thousands clearance for the cam lobe to crankshaft clearance.
Hey where did you get the oil funnel? Looks to be very helpful! @38:36
I got mine at Ace Hardware!
@@TyranisCustoms thank you!
He got the tillitson t 211✌️
WAYYY UP THERE MORTY 👆
When working with the bolts on the rod, why is it important to use a 12 point socket
because its 12 point bolts
Did you have any clearance issues with the cam?
I have issues with mine
Looking forward to build
It came out awesome!
@@TyranisCustoms whenever cars and cameras has that busco beach meet, it would be cool you guys came down, I would love to meet you guys and see your projects
That thing is already a wheelie monster…. You guys are crazy!!!! Sick build fellas!!!!
@@ElPatronGamefarm I thought about going to that meet couple years ago! That place always looks like a blast! Got the wide drag area adn tons of trails with great people! I'd love to go if everyone else does!
@@kartguy you should take your kart out there and smoke every body lol that thing fast
Masking tape compression! : D
I wasn't expecting that...
@@TyranisCustoms : D
Is there a pt 2 to this? I kinda wanted to see it run and stuff
It went in our Rascal right after, so you can see it running there!
@@TyranisCustoms gotcha thank you sir!
Is your engine hemi or non hemi
Don't forget to check bearing clearance plastic guage!
For sho!
Why didn't you check the cam to crankshaft clearance before you put the side cover on all the way I had a 265 cam hit the crankshaft before
Everytime
What’s the valve lash spec? I’m building this exact build and same engine. But you didn’t say the measurement for the other side. Besides that great video!
he said .003" on the video
Thanks, already got it!
Plastiguage?
No clearance??
I haven't seen anyone check the ring gap in any of these videos.
What size torque wrench 1/4 or 3/8?
Whatever works as long as you set it right!
I like y’all’s style just talk little more lol
No cam clearance..?
😅🤷🏻
I didn't think you were supposed to lube between the bearing and the rod.
Now that you say it that makes sense. It's all gonna be sloshin anyways tho 🤷🏻
Without oil between, there's a better heat transfer?
It will run or like some others say:"it'll be fine".
@@LilPopeye You lube the bearing so they do not "score" (dry burn) on the crankshaft and have low spot or grooves in the bearing due to the crankcase oil not getting to the journal quick enough on the first start, especially if you are throttle happy and rev the shit out of it on the first pull.
Use assembly lube on all rotating/contact parts on a new build, at the very least a good heavy oil 30WT, 20w/50 but never dry
All of what you said is true, but there is no need to place any type of lube between the rod surface and the back side of the bearing, because that area of the bearing is not moving
Y.N.T.S.😮
stage 2 420cc better then the stage 2 212cc ????
More ccs = more power, but also bigger packaging and more weight. To me, it depends on the build
@Tyranis Customs I have a racing kart frame and I’m trying to decide on a motor, I’m thinking the 420 stage 1?
You shouldn't have any oil on the back side of those rod bearings when installing
P.G.J.F.A.D.A.
Even with the pushrods being the same length on a previously run motor it is better to keep track of which one is which and put them back in the same orientation because of pre-warn wear patterns it can cause irregular where in early malfunction if you swap them out
That's actually a great point.
Used that stuff!
I don't believe the gps hype.
Those things aren't 10hp out of the box, and that might be closer to what you get with these mods. It is still a 212cc mower engine.
You guys are killing it with your production values(cinematic skills and video quality), giving those Idaho guys a legit run for the money.
I appreciate the kind words man! The Tillotsons are really high quality and GPS dynoed their stage 2 at over 15hp!
I had a brand new tillotson 212 dynoed and it was 9hp and it was the first time I started and ran the engine and the quality of the Tilly block compared to the other engines out there I take a Tilly all day long and they cost way less than a gx200 and not much more than the predator
15 horsepower is a tad optimistic. More around 10-13.
Check out GPS's stage 2 video! I'm going off their dyno numbers!
@@TyranisCustoms I have a friend with a hydraulic load cell dyno. That's a little more accurate than the inertia dyno. Lines up better with real-world measurements on the vehicle if you look at acceleration rates.
Inertia dynos can be goofed from gear ratios you change. Or, inertia in the system that isn't calculated directly in the mass of the dyno flywheel. Type of chain you're using, weight of the clutch etc.
Load cells are directly coupled and don't have much if any room for error.
Can you do mine... I'll pay
I know you're explaining, but the whole time you can't see nothing
.055" gap for ignitin coil to flywheel. it should more like .010"
Wrong! Arc says min .030. many use .050" up to .070" or so
Bro stop with the camera movement Holy crap
Boring asf
Nice hammer
Me like!