Homemade Passenger Drop Dana 60. Ultimate Land Rover Discovery Build Episode 3.
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- Опубліковано 27 лис 2024
- The super duty dana 60 has become wildly popular for good reason. But if you have a passenger side drop transfer case, you need to build an axle that can match your Toyota, Chevy, Dodge, ect.
In today's video we make a driver side drop axle into a passenger side drop. The intention here is to make a high pinion, passenger side drop axle that still uses OEM super duty parts! No custom shafts, no special parts, just off the shelf replacements if we need them. With enough creativity and flexibility you can build a custom axle out of just about any axle you have laying around! Stay creative folks! And enjoy the video!
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#metalfabrication #offroad #overland
I drill the plug welds and remove the entire tube from the center. It's actually easier than doing the sleeves. Doesn't have to be perfectly tight to begin with as the pucks align everything before welding. But there's more than one way to do things and glad you can show people anything is possible. Love your videos!
Are they hard to beat out of the housing once the plug welds are drilled?
Your way is much better instead of insert sleeve
You never seem to disappoint with the cinematography, fabrication and educational skills. I also never seen even 1 down vote by the time I get to to your videos. Thank you sir, exceptional quality as always 🤝!
Thank for always watching buddy 👍
Super nice Job!!! Thanks to share!!!
We did 9 in front ends in 70's broncos 40 years ago. We had to use an alignment rod as there was great differences in tube diameters. It solved the dana 30 problems LOL
Dead on balls accurate... It's an industry term.
Nate Love your work, your filming, your editing, your style... Damn... Best UA-cam channel ever
Thanks so much for the huge compliment 👍
Dead nuts
@IrishStew quote from My Cousin Vinny
within a RCH
Balls on is a term used for double zero's or accurate with no error.
Nice to see a fabricator that actually fabricates, a lot of guys just assemble somebody else’s work
That is insane !! Its gotta be nice to never be down and out....Some people are broke down , you are just slowed down. HUGE difference.
Thank you for walking through your build. I can't get enough of how step by step you make it seem very feasible to do this stuff.
Thank you for breaking down the unknown. Great video Nate!
Do you think if our childhood had live notifications like this, that my dad would have come to more of my baseball games?
Lol I just literally laughed out loud 😂
That's some funny shit right there
No. He's busy getting you a new step mom.
That alignment rod sliding out that smoothly is the very best indication of straightness there is. Well Done.
Nate! You are freaking AWESOME! Thanks for sharing tips, your methods, and some of the basic info that make these seemingly impossible jobs possible for the average joe! It would have been great to see the alternate "keep it aligned" method without the "cheater alignment bar", but nicely done! That bar slid out of there without a single catch! Keep up the great work, brother!
Finally, thank God! A channel whose videos I don't have to mute. No crazy techno or rap music. In fact, its tasteful background music. Thank you! Subbed.
Much appreciated man! Welcome aboard 🤘
Damn dude. Knocked it out of the park. Well worth watching the ads in full for this kinda content.
Thank you very much 👍
About time that somebody does a video that doesn’t scare everybody away from doing there own work keep up the work man
Thanks for the knowledge on how to change over that axle. I have a 03 axle out of a super duty. I was just going to check around for a transfer case to make my build work on my 80 suburban. Changing from a 2wd to 4x4. Thanks for all your content you have shown excellent work 👌👍
I have a set of 2008 Super Duty axles that are getting lonely waiting for me to use them. I'm over-the-moon happy to see someone making Super Duty axle content. Thank you!
Nate your videos inspired me during a recovery from a really shitty accident. Kept my spirits up when I was really down on myself and the world. Thanks keep it up. Y'all kept me going and now I get to spend time wrenching on my own things using your builds as guides. Jeep on bro
Very sorry about your accident but I'm happy to help give you inspiration 👍
Great video as always Nate. My vote for your next build is a crew cab Comanche with a bobbed bed w/ 3rd row seating & a roll cage that doubles as a soft top.... I’ll be waiting and I know you won’t disappoint
Badass. That axle looks like a straight up road warrior prop
This is the best one ton swap video series ever.... now just waiting on the TJ on tons lol
Thanks man 👍
THANK YOU for beveling your weld surfaces! GREAT video man! Did a bit of this for IMSA prep on race cars/trucks. Good to see this made as public education!
Nice job! About 10 years ago me and a friend chopped a Ford Dana 60 and did the exact same thing to work in a GM application. We didn't use an alignment rod, just a lot of measuring and remeasuring. It's held up since with no issues. Nice truss also.
Great vid! The alignment bar Brings back memories of straightening 9” rear axles for circle track every time I’d have to repair someone’s race car. I have had to use a press and a torch with water to fix bent axles
Series of videos on doing this would be awesome but I understand not wanting to give away trade secrets too.
Jesse Name oh I don’t do this kind of work anymore. It was great though. Just a lot of pressing and counting for spring back and rechecking. If it’s not a big bend you can use a torch on the long side of the tube and use a water soaked rag to shrink it
Do you have more details on this? I need to do this on my dana44. Long tube got bent. I assume you heat the concave side (to expand) and cool the convex side (to contract)?
Love the project here. Shows how some elbow grease and attention to detail can save big $$$$ over ordering
custom parts.
Quality... Authentic... Content! 👍
It’s good to see guys still making parts your a great mechanic
Amazing, Nate. Simply amazing.
Thanks buddy 👊
Galdang brother
I always figure on switching the transfer case but in a Land Rover no way. Good job so far. You hit the nail on the head when you said rock crawler goes over landing.
Good vid Keep it up
I’ve found that welding cast to mild with MIG using ERNi-1 wire has been the go to for a bullet proof process.
Other than that I give you an A+ on this.
Top notch my friend 👍
High nickel content weld wire. (For Nate,) lol
I have wondered how to do this for a long time also shortening an axle thank you for making it a bunch easier.
How is it that you don't own a fab shop. Your skills and knowledge are very impressive. My dad taught me a lot about fabrication and I am so damn happy that I had that opportunity to learn. It really is fun, isn't it?
Thanks! Working on my own stuff is much more fun then other folks lol. Fabrication is a very fun and freeing endeavor. 👍
Man that was one straight piece of work! Using that alignment rod was definitely the way to go. Glad I learned something! Thanks for the vid. Stay safe!
That. Was. Awesome. Good work brother.
Thank you for the content that you create. I am an old school custom motorcycle fabricator and now 20 years later I am diving into my first off road build. Keep it coming! I know this video was made 3 years ago, but I am slowly catching up haha. Thanks again!
hell yeah bro. my 95 bronco just became a project vehicle, and a ton of the things i have been looking to do, you have done... keep it up..
For cast steel welding use a high Nickel alloy filler wire and keep the part hot while welding on it and let it cool slowly. You said you were preheating to 300F, that should do it, between stitch passes for your cover check the temp and torch it up to temp if need. When you are done wrap with ceramic blanket and let cool to ambient.
Shouldn't he preheat closer to 500 since it's not just cast steel it's Nodular?
Nice video, very helpful. Same angle reading twice is an indication of repeatability, not necessarily accuracy. They are relative in their accuracy though, so for these purposes it works.
Going to pick up a welder tomorrow and can’t wait to feel confident enough to get to this!
Rob Conlin already have all that. Just missing the key to getting all this done
Idk how you make everything look so flawless and simple, man. You're such an amazing fabricator and educator of fab work. Anytime you post a video about fab work I feel like I could walk out into the garage and do it right then if I had the tools.
Thanks brother, that's high praise!
@@DirtLifestyle you're very welcome! Keep up the great work. I'm trying to catch up on your videos.
Great job Nate! You always inspire me and i'm sure hundreds of others to get out there and challenge themselves, great Fabricator, great crawler and camera man. Keep up the good work brother and we'll be waiting for the next vid!
Much appreciated 👊
Yeah, this was awesome Nate! Nice job on that axle
"You need to build a rig as light as possible", proceeds to build the crap out of 1 tons, lol. Love the content as always.
Yes, but is the axle a place where you want to go as light as possible?
Maybe he need independent suspension for light axle. Don't look for rigid axle for light axle..
Super 60 high pinion is the way to go now
Cheap and easy to come by
What can I say?: One of the exceptional few!
I'm currently modifying the stock Rover front axle on my 2011 defender, fitting a Gwyn Lewis HD Diff pan and a few other little things. I would love to add a custom truss.. this video has inspired me to have a go at my own design.
Your fabs are awesome Nate. You constantly set the bar for home shop fab projects and quality videos. The best way to keep the rain from running under your garage door is to move you garage over here on the dry side.
Lol I bet that would work pretty good 😂
YOU ARE KILLING IT! Excellent WORK!
Thanks man!
The video we've all been waiting for, love the axle work! Thanks Nate!
Still killing it. Great camera work, great music and pretty damned good content too👍
Amazing videos thanks for putting the time in.
You are doing a great job.
Your videos pushed me to make my own roof rack and armor. Saving me $1500.
Good! I love reading these kind of comments 👍
I'm a Toyota guy myself but I love your videos.
Thanks! I'm a toyota guy too 👍
This was awesome. Seen videos like this before but this was original in it's own way. Very cool
Wow, you truly are next level!
Thanks buddy 👊
very nice work, can't wait to see what is next in store for this build.
309 stainless wire works pretty reliably on cast to low carbon. Preheat and you should be good. C.W.I.
I have a grand Wagoneer D44 that I've been debating on doing this too for my xj.
Yes sir that's the way to go. 309 is like a Swiss army knife lol
Not a bad pick to run. I had quite a few dana 60s on rear end. Ran them hills of WV with lot off-road use. They never fail me once and had great post- Trac from factory. My 1st one came factory on Ford F 250 . 4X4. Yes Ford.
I’m a big fan of your content! You will be costing me money in the future! Please keep showing the custom fab with the details you give. I will be looking back on this when I finally can start my project.
Thanks buddy, I appreciate it 👍
I just watched your Atlas install on your TJ. Are things smoother with it now that you have run it for a while? It would be nice to see a follow up on some of the mods you have done after some time to know what type of things may be needed for tweeks, correction, adjustment, and if you are still happy with a mod or if you think there may be another approach you may take if you did it again.
Thank you for the idea we did it here in Jordan.
I'd kill to have you run a shop with me. Your attention to detail and reasoning is on point. Good job man.
Thank you! Unfortunately running a shop isn't my cup of tea. To many people want high quality parts built for free.
@@DirtLifestyleI agree they certainly do. If you ever come down to socal I have a YJ l rock crawl and live by a lot of nice trails. Would be really fun to wheel with ya.
Hose clamps work good for making straight cuts on tube also
I always wondered if this was possible! Keep up the good work Sir!!!
built not bought love it . good job with camera work and explaining everything love your channel
Well done . You nailed it.
Nice clean work right here! Pay attention kids.. 😁
Drinking some beer and eating some venison to your videos is the best 👌
I did exact Same thing about a year ago with my dana 300 case on an xj so now I got a hi pinion pass drop !!!
Nate. Awesome lob my friend!!
Wow! You made that look like it was not even close to as challenging as I expected it to be. I kind of figured you would have to pull the tubes and put new axle tubes in to switch from passenger to driver side drop. Its looking really good and strong.
Thanks buddy 👍
Great video Nate. You do good work.
Fantastic work, thank you for making this axle and this video!
Awesome fab skills sir! Fun to watch someone with your skill set! Cheers
Was going to watch aluminum vs steel video when this one popped up “uploaded 10seconds ago”
Good timing!
I’ve migged to a couple of the housings as well as the knuckles with great success. Pre/post heat, peening it for stress relief, and then I wrap it with a welding blanket.
“When i used to be plumber”
Haha i am a fellow plumber & union brother.
I have a similar project coming up and seeing you walk through it helped tremendously. Fantastic work as always sir!
Nice work, Nate!
Tks man!!! Here in Brazil we dont have a lot of axles, front axles... with open knuckles and with right side pumpikin... I'm going foward on my project...
Wow totally awesome!!
I'm so glad I found your channel. It's so helpful and informative. Keep up the hard work and thank you
Thanks man 👍
Yeah, this is awesome
Looks fantastic!! I hope to get to this lvl of welding! Just awesome
What I did for building my own axle housing and also trussing a bunch of Dana 60s and a bolt bolt was get a big i beam and making custom saddles to mount the axle in based off the tube disneter. Like mounting a crankshaft in a motor sort of. I then added a few mounts for a laser to verify if the housing is straight or now. Not quite as accurate but it also allowed me to straighten a Dana 60 that was 1/4 inch out on one tube back to within a few thousandths of straight really easily.it really is surprising how easy something that appears totally solid will move. Just some food for though.
LASER interferometer is your friend. Love your videos.
Great vids , one of the best channels on you tube!!!. Keep it up sir . 👍
Incredibly entertaining love the quality
Just another cool video !
That’s a badass axle. Nice work.
Awesome everything! You are one talented young man with badass skills. Wish I had your energy.
You are a craftsman sir! Great video as usual
Man I need to come to Nate’s fabrication school lol I’m swapping tons in my Cherokee that’s my first real big project
Got a question for you guys if i upgrade my drum axles to a set with disk do i need to upgrade any of my boosters for them
I thought this was going to be allot more complicated. Very cool video. Can't wait to see what else is coming on this build.
This is going to be viral!!
Another GREAT VIDEO! Production and content on point. 2 ideas for future projects. DIY suspended off road seat. Overland trailer build. Possibly aluminum to give you some tig time. Possibly starting with a military auction trailer as the platform
Thanks! I'm not sure how to go about making suspension seats but I plan on an offroad trailer build this summer 👍
Not to mention pinging the weld and using sand it a sure fire way to help cast welds, preheat cast to atleast 300, as soon as it done bury it in sand. Great insulation and let's the metal cool slowly to keep stress out of the grain structure
Great work!! Thanks for shared!!!
Congratulations from Venezuela Its a grant job!!!
TIG Welding steel to cast tips (from a TIG fanatic):
1) TIG Welding is EXTREMELY focused very intense heat. The expansion rate of steel and cast iron are quite different. This is a big part of your cracking. The reason you see this more with TIG than MIG is due to the focused intense heat. More preheat will help this. Like WAY more.
2) You want filler with a bit of nickel.
3) I know TIG is pretty, but the best option here would be to hook a stinger up to that TIG machine and burn it on with some rods.
Thank you! I have high nickel rods for arc and an arc attachment for my machine. I just kinda hate arc welding lol. But I will if I must
@@DirtLifestyle clean the flux of the arc rods and use them to tig with ....job sorted
So I was just reading and now I am wondering about the cast material and the nickel content of the filler material. I am not a professional welder.
Cast steel is supposed to spark yellow when ground similar to cold or hot rolled. Cast iron will spark much more dimly, and the sparks tend to be red. Judging from the video that center section appears to be cast steel. You said it was steel as well, but just making sure we all agree and can eliminate that uncertainty.
In that case isn't it enough to preheat the material and control cooling using a common MIG filler like ER70S-6? I am not saying using high nickel filler is bad, just that mild steel filler might be OK. For cast iron it definitely seems like you need high nickel filler. I see 55 and 99% Ni as common fillers for cast iron using the preheat and controlled cooling method. I think this has something to do with the high carbon content of cast iron and the ability of the high nickel filler to not over harden when all that carbon is present in the base material.
Obviously you can't believe everything you see or read on the internet, but Ben at JK Gear and Gadgets appears to use typical MIG filler on his one ton swap trusses and they appear to have turned out fine using the preheat and controlled cooling method. I've watched a number of his videos and he seem to put a decent amount of forethought and research into his build. He did a Dana 60 from a super duty and a 14 bolt. See here:
ua-cam.com/video/RtPqCEqifaI/v-deo.html
Maybe the reason you were getting some cracking was just because of the focused heat of TIG as Ian Ahner mentioned above and it has nothing to do with the filler. You could compare the composition of the filler to confirm this as you said the MIG welded portion was fine.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Most gear housings are nodular Iron , I have successfully welded nodular Iron with 7018 SMAW , thats stick arc . But I prefer Eureka or Weld Mold nickel rod stick arc using AC current and a foot pedal . I am a 798 Pipeline welder but started out in the tool and die welding in the 70’s . Pre heat is very important as is the cooling rate . To slow the cooling rate we would bury freshly welded cast iron in “ Mica “ it looks like sand . The cast iron part would still be warm a day later . Also the only difference between steel and Iron is carbon content . And some steels have the addition of other alloying elements . Google the Iron carbon equilibrium diagram . Nice job on your fabrication
Big that’s some nice work. I was always thought to use the casting rod or filler for welding steel to castings, but I had a guy tell me about using dual shied and hit it with a peening hammer to relieve the stress, and I haven’t looked back
Good work! It turned out so great!! 🔥🔥🔥