Just reviewed this tutorial as I am building my 4-link in a 59' Willys station wagon on a stretched 06' TJ chassis. Very heads up move taking the sleeves out of the Enduro joints when welding up the brackets on the bench to keep from heating them up to much. Thanks for your content you provide to all of us. Cheers!
Really like your videos. I started my first one ton / 3 link build in my Yota. Seeing your process and explaining the geometry has giving me the confidence to forge forward. Keep the content coming.
Great video! I’m glad you’re getting this done so quick because that’s what the people like to see. Initiative. Can’t wait to see the rover doing some wheeling soon
Glad to see you building such a unique vehicle. Seems everyone and their brother on youtube is building a jeep, glad to see someone building something different.
It's night and day man. There isn't much you can do to tune a leaf spring but with a 4 link you can dial in suspension to do whatever you want. High speed performance and rock crawler performance is all based on the position of the links 👍
Can you talk about your Enduro links left and right hand thread, also high and misalignment spacers and safety washers. Just general set up of the link bars.
MG makes some great welding rod. They have one called Super 600. You could even weld a leaf spring together with it. I would check them out for welding dissimilar metals. Thanks for the great videos.
I wanna take a moment to thank you for your channel. You have given me a insight to install my axles in my YJ. I have a 93 YJ, I'm getting ready to install a AMM 9.5 and a AMM 10.5 410 gears. I'm dumping the leafs and doing the triangular 4 link rear and 3 link front. I'm going off your past builds. This is going to be my first major mod unfortunately I'm just going with coils and shocks. Any insight on more ideas would be appreciated. Again thank you so much for such a great channel. Be safe and wheel on brother.
Nate, love this series. Your willingness to tackle these kind of projects at home show all of us with the mechanical aptitude how not to go broke building these rigs. Thanks, keep it up. And Happy birthday to your baby girl.
(Question open to anyone) What about just saying "screw it" and going for a four-corner leaf spring setup? Simpler geometry and such. What vehicles would you recommend this technique for? I know that YJs have this from the factory, but I'm not a fan of the ride. RegularCarReviews had a video on a leaf spring swapped 4runner. Looked like it had plenty of flex/comfort. Excellent video as always.
Just some personal experience, I have welded 5 8.8 axle tubes and my super duty tubes with preheat and regular e70 series wire .035. I always needle scale my tacks and welds as soon as I finish them and I needle scale everything after I get done. I haven’t had any crack
I have done this too. The big issue is not all cast material is created equal. A 1976 dana 60 center could weld fine but a 1994 dana 60 won't. Even if they are both cast iron the amount of trash elements completely changes the way the housing reacts to various welding processes. I've heard of very disparaging differences between housings from the same foundry made the same year just because of one having more of one element and less of another. I mig welded the artec truss on my buddies super duty 60 without a single crack but this super duty 60 I'm building has a crack in every location I used mig. Same machine, wire and preheat. Lol this material can be frustrating to say the least
Trick I've always gotten good results with was essentially welding it cold, takes forever. Run a Nickel or cast specific rod with the majority of the pool on the cast section in roughly 3/4 to inch segments depending on how hot your running it and peen the shit out of it. Move to another spot, much of the same. Once its all welded up on the cast side I run Mig on the Stick weld and Steel for the truss. Basically in the same way I ran the cast. Again takes a fuckpile of time to do and If you cant hold your hand against the weld for longer than 5 seconds after peening it its too hot. In my experience of course, Arizona keeps center sections pretty warm in the summer sun....
your videos have inspired me to become a certified welder. i would eventually love to build trucks or possibly even bumpers and suspension components one day for land cruisers. keep up the good work 👍🏼
309 Stainless tig wire is commonly used for dissimular metals, 312 stainless is the super weld almost anything-to-anything rod. Nickle 55 or 99 are the two cast filler metals. Thanks
Nate you probably know this already because you have a bud that is into LR’s, many of us put the front sway bar end links on the rear. They are a bit longer and you still keep the benefits of the actual sway bar. Love this series on the D2. Thank you for sharing it. Green Oval Guild
Yet another cracking video Nate, this and the previous have given me the confidence to attempt a heavier duty 4 link on my discovery 1. loved ya choice of tunes. Happy birthday from the UK to ya daughter, enjoy the beach.
Awesome video Nate!! I’m just running a near stock Hilux, nothing near your league, but I really appreciate getting in-depth sessions like this. Allows me to wrench vicariously..😉
Nice video. You answered a lot of curiosities of the similarities of rock crawling suspensions vs dirt racing suspensions that im used to. But of coarse in race cars we want are left rear tire to travel forward up to 3 inches.
You have to use nickel rod to tig weld nodular to mild steel. It will prevent the cracking and you should always do a very hot root pass and then fill with a weave weld.
Is that a sterling rear from a ford? If so you can just regular mig weld the truss all the way across the center section they take welds fine, I’ve done those axles numerous times. Lots of heat and cast needs to be clean. The only rear that needs pre heat and slow cool (in my experience) is a 14 bolt full floater. Just my 2 cents for people scared to truss a rear.
Hi Nate love the videos Question. I see how you set the ride height of the axle sitting on the jack stands by using your tire height but how do you determine the ride height of your vehicle on the jack stands when your mocking everything up? Or does it not matter to be too exact? Also is the house next door to you for sale, I need a neighbor like you :) And Happy Birthday to your daughter Drago .
I have the ride height very close to what it was before i disassembled the vehicle. I took measurements of everything and kept it close when placing it on the jack stands. It will shrink Slightly because the brackets on the axles are shorter but I just need it in the ball park for now 👍
Do you think you could work out your middle example 4 link layout on your J truck? I am doing one on my M715, exhaust is already side exit, seems like there's plenty of room to do nearly anything but in my experience things get tight/complicate quick even on huge trucks.
@@DirtLifestyle I think I'll go for that style if it looks right after I stare at it for a few hours. Have a little shop near Georgetown CA, throw me a message if you ever need to do some pre/post Rubicon work.
Really enjoying this series! You continue to blow me away with your knowledge and skill. Been following since you debuted with bleepinjeep. I'll be buying some merch on payday, I like that new neck gaiter design.
@@DirtLifestyle you're welcome man. And yes, been here since the beginning haha. Its been awesome to watch your following and channel grow the way it has.
I use .023 wire and 75/25 co2/argon gas when welding on a truss or gussets. I’ve never had an issue with cracking or bad welds. I don’t heat the cast either but that’s just me.
Upper rear arm axle mount to gas tank clearance in a rear-ended collision? May need tank shield like Ford Crown Vic's and Pintos since this is a Family vehicle.... Safety First!
Loving this content man. Been a subscriber since day one. You break things down and make it easy to understand. Im going to be 4 linking the rear of my xj. This video definitely helped me get a better understanding on how I'm going to go about it. Is there any future plans for a video explaining coilovers? Spring rates? Travel? Etc. Not sure what to do coilover wise as I plan my 4 link.
You sir with all respect should read the answer given by Rock Crusher in your last rear axle video. The middle picture is called a double Henry. Thank you for the great videos.
I've thought about a bolt on brace Victorville truss on a 14 bolt that would use the front bolts on the pinion and a spacer plate on the diff cover rather than welding to the center cast.
Question on pinion angle. If you have the rear pinion pointing at the Tcase rather than staying flat, this obviously chages the pinion angle with suspension travel. Do you use a constant velocity joint rather than universal joint on the Tcase side to combat this? Or is it just not enough of an issue with 4wd/off road setups? I only ask because I'm more familiar with drag car set up where keeping pinion angles matching is kind of a big deal.
Thank you again for another great and informative video. Is there a chance you could make a video on how to determine spring rates on coilovers? All the videos I've seen basically say to take it to a shop.
here in 2023 still going back and watching these videos
End of March 2024 and here I am lol
End of July 2024…still here!
Start of august haha@@carlmedleyii
Real overlander vibes with the smooth jazz
Your fabrication knowledge and skills are impressive and inspiring!
Thank you!
FANTASTIC content man…THANK YOU!!!
Nate, your show is the best! The combination of music, cinematography, and technical prowess is unmatched by anyone else in the 4x4 space, imo.
Thank you very much!
Just reviewed this tutorial as I am building my 4-link in a 59' Willys station wagon on a stretched 06' TJ chassis. Very heads up move taking the sleeves out of the Enduro joints when welding up the brackets on the bench to keep from heating them up to much. Thanks for your content you provide to all of us. Cheers!
Really like your videos. I started my first one ton / 3 link build in my Yota. Seeing your process and explaining the geometry has giving me the confidence to forge forward. Keep the content coming.
Thanks dude! Good luck with the yota! I will build one eventually 👍
Great video! I’m glad you’re getting this done so quick because that’s what the people like to see. Initiative. Can’t wait to see the rover doing some wheeling soon
Thanks! Dude, I'm itching to test this build out on the trails lol
For your fwd axle . You should look into . BALLJOINT ELIMINATORS
Very valuable information. I dig the music variety! Thanks for this.
Well It Is a DISCO he is building LOL
Thanks!
Happy birthday to your girl, have fun at the beach
Her parents appreciate the sentiment! 👍
Glad to see you building such a unique vehicle. Seems everyone and their brother on youtube is building a jeep, glad to see someone building something different.
Should look at a terrafirma disslocation kit to for the articulation when you put your shocks and springs back in
Great content I really enjoy your no hype straight forward planning and execution thanks from over here in Australia
Another amazing lesson from the JEDI master himself.
Thanks!
Learning alot. I was leaning toward sas on leafs but you really highlight the performance of coils.
It's night and day man. There isn't much you can do to tune a leaf spring but with a 4 link you can dial in suspension to do whatever you want. High speed performance and rock crawler performance is all based on the position of the links 👍
Can you talk about your Enduro links left and right hand thread, also high and misalignment spacers and safety washers. Just general set up of the link bars.
Very informative and enjoyable. I watch because of your professional quality and approach to the work you, which shows in the final product.
Thank you!
Ayyyy happy birthday Little Pickle! Hope the family enjoys the beach!
I will always appreciate the amount of detail and explanation are put into these videos
Absolutely loving the information!! It's helping me put together the pipe dream of 4 linking my k5. Thank you!!
This is my dream discovery build
MG makes some great welding rod. They have one called Super 600. You could even weld a leaf spring together with it. I would check them out for welding dissimilar metals.
Thanks for the great videos.
Wonder if you could have tig welded with silicon bronze for the center section. Used for cast iron repairs
Very very smooth and nice videos man. New subscriber 👍👍👍
Great music selection brother! This has been a very educational series. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks!
Awesome Nate. Keep the welding tips coming. I would really like to see you try some weld thru primer.
I wanna take a moment to thank you for your channel. You have given me a insight to install my axles in my YJ. I have a 93 YJ, I'm getting ready to install a AMM 9.5 and a AMM 10.5 410 gears. I'm dumping the leafs and doing the triangular 4 link rear and 3 link front. I'm going off your past builds. This is going to be my first major mod unfortunately I'm just going with coils and shocks. Any insight on more ideas would be appreciated. Again thank you so much for such a great channel. Be safe and wheel on brother.
Best channel on UA-cam 🔥🔥🤯
Thanks bro 👊
Nate, love this series. Your willingness to tackle these kind of projects at home show all of us with the mechanical aptitude how not to go broke building these rigs. Thanks, keep it up. And Happy birthday to your baby girl.
(Question open to anyone) What about just saying "screw it" and going for a four-corner leaf spring setup? Simpler geometry and such. What vehicles would you recommend this technique for? I know that YJs have this from the factory, but I'm not a fan of the ride. RegularCarReviews had a video on a leaf spring swapped 4runner. Looked like it had plenty of flex/comfort.
Excellent video as always.
SWEET! I got a mention! Thanks, Nate!
Just some personal experience, I have welded 5 8.8 axle tubes and my super duty tubes with preheat and regular e70 series wire .035. I always needle scale my tacks and welds as soon as I finish them and I needle scale everything after I get done. I haven’t had any crack
I have done this too. The big issue is not all cast material is created equal. A 1976 dana 60 center could weld fine but a 1994 dana 60 won't. Even if they are both cast iron the amount of trash elements completely changes the way the housing reacts to various welding processes. I've heard of very disparaging differences between housings from the same foundry made the same year just because of one having more of one element and less of another. I mig welded the artec truss on my buddies super duty 60 without a single crack but this super duty 60 I'm building has a crack in every location I used mig. Same machine, wire and preheat. Lol this material can be frustrating to say the least
Trick I've always gotten good results with was essentially welding it cold, takes forever. Run a Nickel or cast specific rod with the majority of the pool on the cast section in roughly 3/4 to inch segments depending on how hot your running it and peen the shit out of it. Move to another spot, much of the same. Once its all welded up on the cast side I run Mig on the Stick weld and Steel for the truss. Basically in the same way I ran the cast. Again takes a fuckpile of time to do and If you cant hold your hand against the weld for longer than 5 seconds after peening it its too hot. In my experience of course, Arizona keeps center sections pretty warm in the summer sun....
You’re a beast brotha
your videos have inspired me to become a certified welder. i would eventually love to build trucks or possibly even bumpers and suspension components one day for land cruisers. keep up the good work 👍🏼
Awesome! I'm very happy to have inspired you to get into this fabricator world! Good luck in the new career 👍
Great video as always brother and thank you again for all you do for the 4x4 community.
Thank you for the positive comment 🤘 you rock
Could you do a video discussing angles of triangulation on four link and why its important?
Good stuff nate. If i was you i would order a jeep die-cast with real suspension to help explain flex, movement and stuff that would be cool.
This man is fabricator goals.
Love the new intro along with all the knowledge and skill of cinematography!
Super excited to see more!
Awesome video👍
309 Stainless tig wire is commonly used for dissimular metals, 312 stainless is the super weld almost anything-to-anything rod. Nickle 55 or 99 are the two cast filler metals. Thanks
Super keen for the anti squat anti dive calcs
Awesome vid as always! Hope all is well with you and your family 👍
Thanks! We had a great time 👍
Great vid!!! Hope the ocean trip went well
Just got back! It was perfect 🤘
Nate you probably know this already because you have a bud that is into LR’s, many of us put the front sway bar end links on the rear. They are a bit longer and you still keep the benefits of the actual sway bar. Love this series on the D2. Thank you for sharing it. Green Oval Guild
Great tip! Thanks!
looks good
I feel I'm repeating myself, but love this video series!
Great video
I’ve had great luck welding cast to mild using dual shield wire with c25 and 400f pre heat. With mig like tig appearance...
I always love the music you use in your vids
Nate, your bad ass man.! Love your videos ! Your like a mad scientist with this metal stuff! Keep it coming!
Yet another cracking video Nate, this and the previous have given me the confidence to attempt a heavier duty 4 link on my discovery 1. loved ya choice of tunes. Happy birthday from the UK to ya daughter, enjoy the beach.
Good video.
such great content your awesome!
As always, Love the videos! Also a huge thanks for the pointers with the MIG wire!
Great Content!!
Nate, please make a video explaining the 3/4 Link calculator file!
Awesome video Nate!! I’m just running a near stock Hilux, nothing near your league, but I really appreciate getting in-depth sessions like this. Allows me to wrench vicariously..😉
Awesome video! Great inspiration to my new build, going for 4- link and unimog axels on my D2😊
Dang you weren't kidding, those frame rails are really narrow 🤣
Great video. I am excited to see what Bilstein shocks you have in those boxes.
7100 👍
Your video editing is getting so clean👍🏻
Much appreciated buddy!
Great video as always. Thanks for your efforts in creating easy to understand and follow content from some pretty technical material.
Happy birthday 🎉🎂💐🎁 have awesome day with the family
Another great video Nate.
Thanks!
Nice video. You answered a lot of curiosities of the similarities of rock crawling suspensions vs dirt racing suspensions that im used to. But of coarse in race cars we want are left rear tire to travel forward up to 3 inches.
You do a really good job on these videos.
Yes good morning nate! Lets see what we have here..
Nate you need to look up the Defender (1) / Discovery 1 rear suspension setup! (wishbone)
The term for your welding technique to minimize warp is stitch welding.
Can't wait to see this dico in action 🤙
Maybe just me, but 3-link+panhard works very well avoiding all other structure issues as well. Wish I could post a pic in here...
Great stuff man keep up the hard work, more appreciate it then you will recognize!
Thanks for another great video.
Very nice job young man 👍
Thank you!
This video is. AMAZING!! Gave me so many ideas of how I want to set up my shop for the next build! What Microphone are you using?
Galicia spein jeep wj...😍😍😍
Love the videos! I don’t see myself ever building an axle/suspension, but the educational value provided is awesome!
Thanks!
Love the build Nate!!
Good man! Thanks for watching!
You have to use nickel rod to tig weld nodular to mild steel. It will prevent the cracking and you should always do a very hot root pass and then fill with a weave weld.
Great stuff man! Wish I could do this!
Awesome series here man!
Thanks!
Great series Nate! I've learned a lot about fabrication and suspension - need to buy me a welder now!
Is that a sterling rear from a ford? If so you can just regular mig weld the truss all the way across the center section they take welds fine, I’ve done those axles numerous times. Lots of heat and cast needs to be clean. The only rear that needs pre heat and slow cool (in my experience) is a 14 bolt full floater. Just my 2 cents for people scared to truss a rear.
Hi Nate love the videos
Question. I see how you set the ride height of the axle sitting on the jack stands by using your tire height but how do you determine the ride height of your vehicle on the jack stands when your mocking everything up? Or does it not matter to be too exact? Also is the house next door to you for sale, I need a neighbor like you :)
And Happy Birthday to your daughter
Drago
.
I have the ride height very close to what it was before i disassembled the vehicle. I took measurements of everything and kept it close when placing it on the jack stands. It will shrink Slightly because the brackets on the axles are shorter but I just need it in the ball park for now 👍
If possible can you make more Jeep Liberty videos but great videos very educational
Great video Nate!
Do you think you could work out your middle example 4 link layout on your J truck? I am doing one on my M715, exhaust is already side exit, seems like there's plenty of room to do nearly anything but in my experience things get tight/complicate quick even on huge trucks.
Its more likely to fit in the J10 then the rover 👍
@@DirtLifestyle I think I'll go for that style if it looks right after I stare at it for a few hours. Have a little shop near Georgetown CA, throw me a message if you ever need to do some pre/post Rubicon work.
Nice job and very good parts 👍
Really enjoying this series! You continue to blow me away with your knowledge and skill. Been following since you debuted with bleepinjeep. I'll be buying some merch on payday, I like that new neck gaiter design.
Thank you very much! Sounds like you have been around since the beginning. I'm honored man truly 👍
@@DirtLifestyle you're welcome man. And yes, been here since the beginning haha. Its been awesome to watch your following and channel grow the way it has.
I use .023 wire and 75/25 co2/argon gas when welding on a truss or gussets. I’ve never had an issue with cracking or bad welds. I don’t heat the cast either but that’s just me.
Upper rear arm axle mount to gas tank clearance in a rear-ended collision? May need tank shield like Ford Crown Vic's and Pintos since this is a Family vehicle.... Safety First!
Can't wait for you to put Tons on that LR3 :D
Lol one ton independent suspension maybe 🤣
Great video as always man! And just like In Jeeping We Trust, we all love you. :P Hope your little girl had a great first birthday!
Loving this content man. Been a subscriber since day one. You break things down and make it easy to understand. Im going to be 4 linking the rear of my xj. This video definitely helped me get a better understanding on how I'm going to go about it. Is there any future plans for a video explaining coilovers? Spring rates? Travel? Etc. Not sure what to do coilover wise as I plan my 4 link.
You sir with all respect should read the answer given by Rock Crusher in your last rear axle video. The middle picture is called a double Henry. Thank you for the great videos.
I've thought about a bolt on brace Victorville truss on a 14 bolt that would use the front bolts on the pinion and a spacer plate on the diff cover rather than welding to the center cast.
Question on pinion angle. If you have the rear pinion pointing at the Tcase rather than staying flat, this obviously chages the pinion angle with suspension travel. Do you use a constant velocity joint rather than universal joint on the Tcase side to combat this? Or is it just not enough of an issue with 4wd/off road setups? I only ask because I'm more familiar with drag car set up where keeping pinion angles matching is kind of a big deal.
Thank you again for another great and informative video. Is there a chance you could make a video on how to determine spring rates on coilovers? All the videos I've seen basically say to take it to a shop.