The oil removed was exactly 1yr & 2mos old with 1,848 miles ran on the oil. The oil was 5w30 Mobile 1 Synthetic High-Mileage, ran with a Mobile 1 filter.
FYI readers In the last year or so I have learned to adjust how to take care of these newer cars...Use top tier gas, fuel additives, change oil before 5k miles. Use certain oils>>> Valvoline restore & protect, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. DEXOS 3rd gen.(COSTCO), NANO metal coating, engine flushes, piston soaks, Catalytic converter care and cleaners. OBD2 diagnostics.
This is awesome to hear! Minus the tapping issue I assumed it would fix on my car (this is another issue) it noticeably made the engine run smoother. So I’ll take this at a win lol. Thank you, glad you enjoyed the vid!
Just put this thru an Odyssey 2003 with 330k, it was blowing smoke at take off after a long idle, plus using about a quart of oil per 1000 miles.. not smoking at takeoff anymore and not used any oil after 700 miles, oil staying cleaner longer. I think it only had stuck rings because it responds quicker now at takeoff with less throttle, must have better compression. this is good stuff.
You are the first person who has reached out that has also used the ATS CRO and had results with it. I really do think this product works great to clean out problematic build up inside engines. It’s not a magical product that fixes out of spec valve train but in your experience, it helped clean the build up that caused your blow-by within your engine. This is great to hear this product did the job for you!
@@TwoStallStudio That CRF did miraculous things to this car. I just discovered Tribotex and thought this was a good time to put it through since it's clean now, that stuff has great reviews so I dosed it yesterday I have to wait 400 miles for it to complete its work. I read a review on Utubes from a rally car driver who claimed the car ran 30 miles on a busted oil pan with no engine damage. There's a ton of positive Utube reviews on it.
It’s possible the ticking is not related to carbon build up on the valves. This product would not have been beneficial in that sense. The engine did seem to run smoother and respond better to acceleration. The product seems to help with fuel mileage and oil consumption as well.
It’s for sure a valve clearance issue. The original idea was it would take care of the ticking but since it did get a little louder this told me the clearances were always the issue. So I’ll be taking care of this soon. Ever since I did this test the car has been extremely peppy and responsive. So it did the job here very well here.
Sadly, these NB Miatas do not have hydraulic lifters but I thought maybe... just maybe there was a chance lol. I have heard of this ATF fluid method before but have never tried.
There are no lifters to clean he needs to do a routine maintanence valve adjustment. Most cars of that vintage and early from Honda, Mazada and Toyota require you to manualy adjust the cam follower/rockers every 20,000 to 50,000 miles.
I have read/seen this fix oil consumption issue on 1 car. Same with EPR109 flush, Amsoil flush, Liqui Moly flush, Seafoam flush, Yamalube ring free flush... BUT stuck piston rings are bad depending on mileage and engine, how often they changed oil, what type oil, top tier gas or cheap stuff. I put EPR 109 in my 4 cyl Dodge.(165k miles).with new oil.. and oil came out black like yours..so I know it cleaned big time. I have a KIA 4 cyl oil guzzler with only 50-60K miles that I did an EPR109 flush before 2 KIA dealer piston soaks. Waiting to see how the 2nd one comes out. I thought I was going to get a new engine after the 1st one. Instead of ATS, I am going to use a Yamalube shock treatment next on my Dodge. I saw this ATS stuff on Scotty too. Saw Yamalube on DIY. I still have 1 can of EPR 109 so I might run that first and not just for 10 minutes. Will run for 20+ minutes and rev the engine some.
If you are saying "Sounds better as if you did a different noise test than at the beginning." Then yes I agree haha... but if you are saying it appears you did a different noise test, well thats a no... same phone, same mic, and same area shot around engine. I guess we can say the product did its job then lol.
Never heard of this stuff since I am not around diesels too much but I see people enjoy using ar9100 in their 7.3s. Might have to give this a try at some point. Thank you for the recommendation!
When is the last time you adjusted the valves on your Miata? If I memory is correct they do not use hydralic lifters/lash adjusters. I think you have to get it up to operating temp and adjust the valve lash with feeler guages, screw driver and socket. Nothing in a can will fix out of lash valves short of doing the adjustment. If you do not know how to do it take it to a Honda Dealership or a shop that specializs on imports! All I could hear in the video was lifter tick and what sounds like out of adjustment valve rocker/cam followers!
We need to give Scotty a Ferrari and validate the Italian theory 😂. Just use decent oil, change it on time, and give the engine some rips from time to time.
Ideally, you are supposed to run it like this to REALLY make a difference if the issues are with sludge.. 1) in current oil, go 100mi Add CRF 505 for the Fuel as well on full tank. 2) replace with cheap oil like walmart supertech synthetic, toss filter with cheap fram, and add magic mystery or 505.. Run 200mi hard revs, normal steady highway rpm, etx. Dump/drain. New cheap oil filter 3) same as #2. 4) add good synthetic oil, good OEM, K&N, or Mobile 1 oil filter. Add new can of CRF 505 gas additive, and run it. Why did i say 100mi, the 200mi? We dont want to over do it. Too much cleaning can loosen too much gunk amd clog lines. More expensive. Too much of a great job in folks pulling plugs and pourijg cleaning in, leting sit, theeeeen, running can break too mich carbon loose and again, clog the fuel passages. Run in tank where its loose and diluted. Oil is dumped over and over, then the final is good. Just keep the oil changes at 3k-5k. General rule, cut the oil changes in 1/2 from dealer recommendations, which is them.saying 10k, but do 5k oil changes
This tactic you have here seems like it would make the inside of my engine crispy clean... but I worry running this 505 CRO for 100 or 200 miles would strip too much to the point I might not have any lubrication left haha. I was going off of the directions on the bottle so... 10 minutes at high revs and I did 30 mins. At this point I am just going to put new solid lifters and shims in to handle the clearances clacking sound. I must say the 505 CRO really smoothed out my engine which has been awesome.
The problem is that people only flush ONE TIME.. doing it 3 times was the magic charm for me.. do it one.. put simple walmart oil and filter.. do it again.. then again.. then again.. problem solved.
No offense taken. I do understand that nbs have solid lifters, shim over bucket style. I was hoping that the clearance wasn’t the case but after this system clean it is very apparent this is the case. Oil gunk removed = equals more loud. Next video of this project will be me checking and adjusting the clearances. Thanks for the comment here.
I want to put this in my 76 VW Bus camper. The engine was replaced about 20K miles ago. There is an occasional tic that disappears within 5 minutes on occasion. Is there any reason to believe that the 505 oil treatment can in any way damage the engine on the older air cooled motor?. Thanks.
505 is not a magic fix but I do believe it cleans out the old oil build up pretty well. Depending on where your tick is coming from, top end or bottom end, if top end you are probably needing a valve adjustment. For me, the 505 treatment was to further pinpoint the tapping issue. It won’t blow up your engine to use but it might make the tapping louder or cause a seal to leak. This is the nature of removing the gunk from places, Like removing padding or removing a cork haha.
The ticking is not gone, originally thinking it would help this issue but made the ticking louder.. since it removed the gunk and it made it cleaner lol. It's a lifter clearance issue... they are worn out and I will be changing those very soon.
Not that its ideal…but Shorty had terrible lifter tick. Which while i was inside I thought was an exhaust manifold leak. We drained a quart of oil out and put a quart of kerosene in and ran it for 10 minutes. The amount of poop that came out of the engine was astounding. Tick is basically gone. That was the first oil change I did while owning it.
If I didn't have solid lifters yours and my tactic would have worked fantastic. Shim over bucket style gain clearances over time so the added space causes a tapping sound. I have to replace the solid lifters as a new part to close those clearances and no more slap. LS engines have hydraulic lifters so you cleaned the gunk out of those holes and if your clearances are good you shouldn't have a sound anymore which is what happened to you :)
I know IM late here but I just used this stuff and …. well I don’t have anything to report actually because I literally just used it yesterday. Sorry. Good talk. 😅
Hahaha well hey give me a report back when you give it some time. I’ve seen an improvement in overall performance, fuller tone. The top end tapping… well… this is still there which I’ll be addressing here this year.
@@TwoStallStudio project farm did a test and they also did one with liquid Molly I have friends that just swear by liquid Molly but compared to the motorkote It really looked like it did nothing. I drive a 20-year-old pick up and a 30 year old jaguar and I use it in an all five of my motorcycles. I think it’s a really good product and I swear a quieter Engine.
@@GilturnerknocksoutphonyFloydin the vid, I call out the directions which is “high idle for 10 or more minutes” so I just did a drive with some higher rpm pulls instead of sitting in one spot revving the engine for this long.
I’m curious of the differences of high revving my engine for 10 or more minutes idling versus a few high revs under load for 10 or more minutes. If anything It didn’t clean enough. Nothing is additionally damaged other than me needing to do a valve adjustment which is what was needed before this test.
Hey there @ox-cetane4887, I've never heard of BG but I just gave them a search... it's expensive but I am seeing many before and after photos which are impressive. Playing around with the idea of maybe trying it on my 78 C10 in the future and seeing what it could do. Thank you for the recommendation!
@@TwoStallStudio I am 70 years old and been in this business a long time and I am no fan of BG products. But their Dynamic engine clean looks very impressive
Magic Touch Mopeds is the business I shared my shop with. Hit them up they should have a Maxi frame in stock for ya. Instagram: instagram.com/mtm.seattle?igsh=MTJxZXBxeTU1a3ExeA== Email: Mtm.seattle@gmail.com Phone: 2064204828
He didn't follow directions. If there's a bad oil leak, or leaks, it's because he ran the stuff so long that it ruined the seals. Good luck replacing them.
@@TwoStallStudio Did you figure out where "all the oil" came from? The sentence in question began with the word "IF" ... did you miss that? Nothing was "made up".
@@woodystemms3799 you hit me with a “he didn’t follow directions.” to start your comment, this should of had an “if”. The oil on the oil pan / engine is reminisce of a bad valve cover gasket, I had replaced it about a year before making this vid and did not get around to cleaning the oil off.
all these ' fix it in a can, or a bottle... the only thing missing to prove these claims is a before and after photos of the engine parts.. just a ' sounds better' does not make it a empirical result...
You are not wrong at all. I hate "fix-its" in a bottle because usually they don't work and may mess things up. You should always just replace the part you are having problems with, the actual fix lol. This Miata had a hard life before I purchased the car, so I thought what the hell let's see what ATF can clean out some gunk... and it was quite a bit. Overall balanced idle and running feel. The clacking, I'll be fixing that soon.
9:10 - How old was the oil you drained out? What oil was it?
The oil removed was exactly 1yr & 2mos old with 1,848 miles ran on the oil.
The oil was 5w30 Mobile 1 Synthetic High-Mileage, ran with a Mobile 1 filter.
Thanks, that's quite helpful. Best luck with the Miata and thanks for sharing.
FYI readers In the last year or so I have learned to adjust how to take care of these newer cars...Use top tier gas, fuel additives, change oil before 5k miles. Use certain oils>>> Valvoline restore & protect, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. DEXOS 3rd gen.(COSTCO), NANO metal coating, engine flushes, piston soaks, Catalytic converter care and cleaners. OBD2 diagnostics.
I bought it too after Scotty recommended it, my Nissan Murano actually runs better. Great video new here
This is awesome to hear! Minus the tapping issue I assumed it would fix on my car (this is another issue) it noticeably made the engine run smoother. So I’ll take this at a win lol. Thank you, glad you enjoyed the vid!
Just put this thru an Odyssey 2003 with 330k, it was blowing smoke at take off after a long idle, plus using about a quart of oil per 1000 miles.. not smoking at takeoff anymore and not used any oil after 700 miles, oil staying cleaner longer. I think it only had stuck rings because it responds quicker now at takeoff with less throttle, must have better compression. this is good stuff.
You are the first person who has reached out that has also used the ATS CRO and had results with it. I really do think this product works great to clean out problematic build up inside engines. It’s not a magical product that fixes out of spec valve train but in your experience, it helped clean the build up that caused your blow-by within your engine. This is great to hear this product did the job for you!
@@TwoStallStudio That CRF did miraculous things to this car. I just discovered Tribotex and thought this was a good time to put it through since it's clean now, that stuff has great reviews so I dosed it yesterday I have to wait 400 miles for it to complete its work. I read a review on Utubes from a rally car driver who claimed the car ran 30 miles on a busted oil pan with no engine damage. There's a ton of positive Utube reviews on it.
It’s possible the ticking is not related to carbon build up on the valves. This product would not have been beneficial in that sense. The engine did seem to run smoother and respond better to acceleration. The product seems to help with fuel mileage and oil consumption as well.
It’s for sure a valve clearance issue. The original idea was it would take care of the ticking but since it did get a little louder this told me the clearances were always the issue. So I’ll be taking care of this soon. Ever since I did this test the car has been extremely peppy and responsive. So it did the job here very well here.
When I was in the airforce, we would put a pint of ATF in the engine. It would clean hydraulic lifters.
Sadly, these NB Miatas do not have hydraulic lifters but I thought maybe... just maybe there was a chance lol. I have heard of this ATF fluid method before but have never tried.
There are no lifters to clean he needs to do a routine maintanence valve adjustment. Most cars of that vintage and early from Honda, Mazada and Toyota require you to manualy adjust the cam follower/rockers every 20,000 to 50,000 miles.
@@buckaroobonsi555i had a lot of issues in a Honda fit 2002 … it all began to be in line after making the valve adjustment.
I have read/seen this fix oil consumption issue on 1 car. Same with EPR109 flush, Amsoil flush, Liqui Moly flush, Seafoam flush, Yamalube ring free flush... BUT stuck piston rings are bad depending on mileage and engine, how often they changed oil, what type oil, top tier gas or cheap stuff. I put EPR 109 in my 4 cyl Dodge.(165k miles).with new oil.. and oil came out black like yours..so I know it cleaned big time. I have a KIA 4 cyl oil guzzler with only 50-60K miles that I did an EPR109 flush before 2 KIA dealer piston soaks. Waiting to see how the 2nd one comes out. I thought I was going to get a new engine after the 1st one. Instead of ATS, I am going to use a Yamalube shock treatment next on my Dodge. I saw this ATS stuff on Scotty too. Saw Yamalube on DIY. I still have 1 can of EPR 109 so I might run that first and not just for 10 minutes. Will run for 20+ minutes and rev the engine some.
I could definitely tell it sounds smoother.🎉
It for sure cleaned something out, it's still running smooth.
Ticking sometimes stops with Archoil 9100, Bestline, LM Ceratec, Motorkote or other metal coatings
Sounds better. It appears you did a different noise test than at the beginning.
If you are saying "Sounds better as if you did a different noise test than at the beginning." Then yes I agree haha... but if you are saying it appears you did a different noise test, well thats a no... same phone, same mic, and same area shot around engine. I guess we can say the product did its job then lol.
You should try archoil ar9100. Mainly used for diesels but you can use It in gas engines too. People swear by it
Never heard of this stuff since I am not around diesels too much but I see people enjoy using ar9100 in their 7.3s. Might have to give this a try at some point. Thank you for the recommendation!
Sounds a little better
When is the last time you adjusted the valves on your Miata? If I memory is correct they do not use hydralic lifters/lash adjusters. I think you have to get it up to operating temp and adjust the valve lash with feeler guages, screw driver and socket. Nothing in a can will fix out of lash valves short of doing the adjustment. If you do not know how to do it take it to a Honda Dealership or a shop that specializs on imports! All I could hear in the video was lifter tick and what sounds like out of adjustment valve rocker/cam followers!
You could have used a decibel app. The decibel app is free and you could have done a before and after to see if the decibel level was better.
Run and run and run. Early oil changes to flush the system. Run harder and more. As Scotty says. The Italian tune up.
We need to give Scotty a Ferrari and validate the Italian theory 😂. Just use decent oil, change it on time, and give the engine some rips from time to time.
Ideally, you are supposed to run it like this to REALLY make a difference if the issues are with sludge.. 1) in current oil, go 100mi Add CRF 505 for the Fuel as well on full tank. 2) replace with cheap oil like walmart supertech synthetic, toss filter with cheap fram, and add magic mystery or 505.. Run 200mi hard revs, normal steady highway rpm, etx. Dump/drain. New cheap oil filter 3) same as #2. 4) add good synthetic oil, good OEM, K&N, or Mobile 1 oil filter. Add new can of CRF 505 gas additive, and run it.
Why did i say 100mi, the 200mi? We dont want to over do it. Too much cleaning can loosen too much gunk amd clog lines. More expensive. Too much of a great job in folks pulling plugs and pourijg cleaning in, leting sit, theeeeen, running can break too mich carbon loose and again, clog the fuel passages. Run in tank where its loose and diluted. Oil is dumped over and over, then the final is good. Just keep the oil changes at 3k-5k. General rule, cut the oil changes in 1/2 from dealer recommendations, which is them.saying 10k, but do 5k oil changes
This tactic you have here seems like it would make the inside of my engine crispy clean... but I worry running this 505 CRO for 100 or 200 miles would strip too much to the point I might not have any lubrication left haha. I was going off of the directions on the bottle so... 10 minutes at high revs and I did 30 mins. At this point I am just going to put new solid lifters and shims in to handle the clearances clacking sound. I must say the 505 CRO really smoothed out my engine which has been awesome.
The problem is that people only flush ONE TIME.. doing it 3 times was the magic charm for me.. do it one.. put simple walmart oil and filter.. do it again.. then again.. then again.. problem solved.
Are you saying using the Oil System Treatment three times or flushing the oil three times after the treatment?
No offence mate but only an miata na has lifters the nbs have shims so what ur saying is a bit wrong
No offense taken. I do understand that nbs have solid lifters, shim over bucket style. I was hoping that the clearance wasn’t the case but after this system clean it is very apparent this is the case. Oil gunk removed = equals more loud. Next video of this project will be me checking and adjusting the clearances. Thanks for the comment here.
Can we all agree that Kilmer is FOS?
He knows his stuff but sometimes he fumbles lol
I want to put this in my 76 VW Bus camper. The engine was replaced about 20K miles ago. There is an occasional tic that disappears within 5 minutes on occasion. Is there any reason to believe that the 505 oil treatment can in any way damage the engine on the older air cooled motor?. Thanks.
505 is not a magic fix but I do believe it cleans out the old oil build up pretty well. Depending on where your tick is coming from, top end or bottom end, if top end you are probably needing a valve adjustment. For me, the 505 treatment was to further pinpoint the tapping issue. It won’t blow up your engine to use but it might make the tapping louder or cause a seal to leak. This is the nature of removing the gunk from places, Like removing padding or removing a cork haha.
Sounds better , the ticking previously is gone . But did it truly worked 😅😅but is smoother.
The ticking is not gone, originally thinking it would help this issue but made the ticking louder.. since it removed the gunk and it made it cleaner lol. It's a lifter clearance issue... they are worn out and I will be changing those very soon.
@@TwoStallStudio 😅😅😅
@@kentsang6330 We want a fix to be easy but some fixes will never be easy😂. I'm looking forward to the reward though.
@@TwoStallStudio we should complain to Scotty 🤣
@@kentsang6330 the ultimate reward is getting Scotty to respond to our complaints.
Not that its ideal…but Shorty had terrible lifter tick. Which while i was inside I thought was an exhaust manifold leak. We drained a quart of oil out and put a quart of kerosene in and ran it for 10 minutes. The amount of poop that came out of the engine was astounding. Tick is basically gone. That was the first oil change I did while owning it.
If I didn't have solid lifters yours and my tactic would have worked fantastic. Shim over bucket style gain clearances over time so the added space causes a tapping sound. I have to replace the solid lifters as a new part to close those clearances and no more slap. LS engines have hydraulic lifters so you cleaned the gunk out of those holes and if your clearances are good you shouldn't have a sound anymore which is what happened to you :)
it sounds deeper after
I know IM late here but I just used this stuff and ….
well I don’t have anything to report actually because I literally just used it yesterday.
Sorry.
Good talk. 😅
Hahaha well hey give me a report back when you give it some time. I’ve seen an improvement in overall performance, fuller tone. The top end tapping… well… this is still there which I’ll be addressing here this year.
That sounds better
buy valvoline restore and protect its a new oil that works got yt videos on it
I'll have to check out this new Valvoline, I used to run Valvoline years back but now, it's all Mobile 1 $$$$$. You now how it is lol
I really like MotorKote.
@@oneanddonetzone3673 I’ve never heard of MotorKote. I will have to give this stuff a look.
@@TwoStallStudio project farm did a test and they also did one with liquid Molly I have friends that just swear by liquid Molly but compared to the motorkote It really looked like it did nothing. I drive a 20-year-old pick up and a 30 year old jaguar and I use it in an all five of my motorcycles. I think it’s a really good product and I swear a quieter Engine.
@@TwoStallStudio ua-cam.com/video/88vwUwa3igQ/v-deo.htmlsi=r9gE0uuTQ1Itwcim
Is this not an engine-flush product? If so should you not just let the car idle for 10 mins instead of driving it?
@@TwoStallStudiothe directions on my can say to let it idle at 2500 RPM or 15/20 minutes then drain and new oil and filter.
@@GilturnerknocksoutphonyFloydin the vid, I call out the directions which is “high idle for 10 or more minutes” so I just did a drive with some higher rpm pulls instead of sitting in one spot revving the engine for this long.
@@TwoStallStudio so you didn't follow directions.
@@TwoStallStudio so you didn't follow directions.
@@ifyoudisagreeyouarewrong Correct, I put the engine under load when I should've been idling.
No hydralic lifters in this engine. Adjust the cam followers/rockers!
Late to the reply but this is in the works!
RISLONE Complete CLEANER quiets lifters down.
did you need a new battery after this video?
After every video I need a new battery.
3:29 Keeelmer?!
Keeelmer! indeed
not suppose to drive it with the flush in it. It thins out the oil. High idle UNDER NO LOAD. You did more damage than good. Thats why it sounds worse.
I’m curious of the differences of high revving my engine for 10 or more minutes idling versus a few high revs under load for 10 or more minutes. If anything It didn’t clean enough. Nothing is additionally damaged other than me needing to do a valve adjustment which is what was needed before this test.
try BG dynamic engine cleaning kit
Hey there @ox-cetane4887, I've never heard of BG but I just gave them a search... it's expensive but I am seeing many before and after photos which are impressive. Playing around with the idea of maybe trying it on my 78 C10 in the future and seeing what it could do. Thank you for the recommendation!
@@TwoStallStudio I am 70 years old and been in this business a long time and I am no fan of BG products. But their Dynamic engine clean looks very impressive
I would only use this pricey kit after all else fails like piston soaks
@@bobreese4807 you are right that it is pricey. But the many youtube videos are also compelling
is she still running well?
Sure is!!
@@TwoStallStudio ty for the response!!! how much do you drive the car?
@@PrinceVegeta-ep8sr You are welcome! Not too much daily driving but for pleasure and autocrossing, heck YES. Spirited miles lol
Sounds a little louder to me😮
This is what I thought too. It has cleared the sludge which padded the clearances.
Fotd boss me said not working???
@@Craig-ik2rb pardon?
@@TwoStallStudio I don't remember what I said.there is no words what I said before????
Ticks still there. But it's smoother for sure
The solid lifters will be getting a refresh very soon. Still impressed with the smoothness even after a few months later.
Try 20w/50
She thic
U have any maxi frames for sale?
Magic Touch Mopeds is the business I shared my shop with. Hit them up they should have a Maxi frame in stock for ya.
Instagram: instagram.com/mtm.seattle?igsh=MTJxZXBxeTU1a3ExeA==
Email: Mtm.seattle@gmail.com
Phone: 2064204828
Lifters bro...lifters. it did sound smoother though.
lol, the engine continues to surprise me with how much smoother it is even if the clacking (separate issue) has not haha.
Dork to the 3rd power 😂
Thank you, I'm embracing it.
Your valves need adjustment dude
The fix is in the works my friend.
The tick sounds like injectors dude, normal.
Ah I wish it was. Common issues with these Miatas is valve clearances / lifters. Should be a decent fix.
He didn't follow directions. If there's a bad oil leak, or leaks, it's because he ran the stuff so long that it ruined the seals. Good luck replacing them.
@@woodystemms3799 Woody, I have no oil leaks and I followed the directions. Don’t be making things up lol.
@@TwoStallStudio Did you figure out where "all the oil" came from? The sentence in question began with the word "IF" ... did you miss that? Nothing was "made up".
@@woodystemms3799 you hit me with a “he didn’t follow directions.” to start your comment, this should of had an “if”. The oil on the oil pan / engine is reminisce of a bad valve cover gasket, I had replaced it about a year before making this vid and did not get around to cleaning the oil off.
@@TwoStallStudio you didn't follow directions.
@@TwoStallStudio "so I took it for a 30min drive with some high idle pulls (equalling to around 10mins of high idle)"
your autism is showing...
all these ' fix it in a can, or a bottle... the only thing missing to prove these claims is a before and after photos of the engine parts.. just a ' sounds better' does not make it a empirical result...
You are not wrong at all. I hate "fix-its" in a bottle because usually they don't work and may mess things up. You should always just replace the part you are having problems with, the actual fix lol. This Miata had a hard life before I purchased the car, so I thought what the hell let's see what ATF can clean out some gunk... and it was quite a bit. Overall balanced idle and running feel.
The clacking, I'll be fixing that soon.
keep your day job
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment, Rick.
Do a test on a real car, not a gay car!!
@@fitzwilly7132 I think it’s a real car. It has an engine, four wheels, and I can drive it around.
Gats drive miatas!
@@TwoStallStudio drive it around a dude's anus*