I think your motor is beyond help and just needs to be rebuilt you've already blew all kinds of money on products and they all failed only thing you didn't and won't try is engine restore I don't understand why your trying everything else if restore can't help it then it just needs to be rebuilt its beyond the help of any kind of oil treatment can offer or do
@@robbieturnbull4253 The B12 Chemtool and Seafoam is not expensive, so they were worth a try, but I agree with you that his engine probably needs to be bored .30 over and new pistons and rings installed, I myself have used Total Seal gap less rings in my Ford 302 motor and my 2110 CC stroked 1968 VW beetle engine I built.
@@robbieturnbull4253 it's an experiment to see if any of these products will make a difference or reduce the burning, some people can't afford this and in some engines this has actually been very successful
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY DAVE (caps for emphasis, not screaming ), I can't believe you haven't installed a fumoto valve on this car yet, makes draining the oil soooo easy compared to removing and replacing the bolt every time. Quality product, I've had mine for more thatn 10 years, zero issues.
A co-worker of mine got one of these for free a year and a half ago for doing work for one of his customers. His was at the point where it would burn A quart of oil every 300 mi. He had tried chemical repairs for 3 years, but it seemed like every year it would have to come in for another dose. He pulled the motor and we rebuilt the engine in about 10 hours over the course of a week. Of the 16 oil return holes, 14. Were plugged when we initially pulled the pistons, 11 were still plugged after 2 hours in the parts washer, and four of them were so stuffed full of hard carbon, that we ended up having to drill them out. The fix, as noted in the forums, is to either drill the oil return holes to the next size up, or by adding two additional return holes in between both existing oil return holes on both sides. We ended up doing both. The two competing theories are that by oversizing the return holes, they will transfer less heat into the oil as it gets scraped back down into the pan, reducing the chance that it can coke up and plug the holes again. And that the additional oil holes were a factory fix in the updated Pistons for the 1zz/2zz engines. Either way, the return holes were gross and it honestly took more time than it ever. Should have to get those pistons clean, although there was no reason to replace them. The Molly coating on the piston skirt did wear but it hadn't worn away completely. We ended up rebuilding the motor in the most sloppy mechanic way possible. Everything was cleaned and reused. The bores were honed out, and although the deck and head were checked for trueness and were in spec, we never sent them out for machining. It got the cheapest rebuild kit on RockAuto, and got fresh bearings and a timing set and water pump. Since then he is driven it about 10,000 mi. The only times he's added oil, have been to fill it up after an oil change. Total consumption between oil changes was 2/10 of a quart, and some of that could be the motor breaking in again. (He did end up having an external coolant leak from the head gasket, but I blame that on the cheap head gasket more than anything else. Doing it again. That's the only thing either of us would change)
3 years is along time Dave. I sat and binged watched your oil burning Corolla series. I enjoy it very much. And I'm looking for results as my car is burning oil also. Looking forward to the next video. Keep up the good work!! 🤘
Honestly the result is cylinder head job, replace worn valves, valve seats and stem seals and off course the piston rings, most important the oil rings. Loved the series Dave was a pleasure to watch and see the trips in between, makes me want to go back to the states
How do you know that the cylinders are still. within specs? You dont just replace piston rings, you change bearings as well and you check the block and the shape of cylinders. It might need liners also. Thats not a cylinder head job, it is engine rebuild. You dont have a clue.@@aloisdecroon6096
Looks like the oil stayed a lot cleaner for longer. As far as I can tell BG is good for removing all that old oil varnish. You can actually kind of see this in the shots of the oil filter housings. So from what I have seen from others, yes, BG will clean up everything and free up sticky rings and fix oil consumption issues by restoring ring tension provided there is no mechanical wear. In this case, though, I think this into the mechanical issue realm that no chemical is going to correct.
I'd do the valve seals first. Easier because it's the top-end. You definitely have oil coming down the stems from the look of it. You can keep the valves at the top by pressurizing the cylinders with a leak-down tester using air pressure to hold the valves in place while you change the seals.
its the rings, the oil is litterly getting blown into the intake, and has uneven compression. he should remove the valves and atleast lap the seats and get all the build up off. the rings, and the ring groves will both be worn.
Hi David,i can tell you from my experience with my 94 Honda civic with 530,000 miles original motor.i bought it new.You NEED to remove the pistons and rings,buy a new set of stocks rings, brand won't matter,hone a crosshatch pattern with a flex hone in the CLYS.and NUMBER 1 use a .093 dia drill BY HAND in a pin vise and ream out the OIL DRAIN BACK HOLES.My car used to burn 1 qt every 100 miles and that was 4 yrs and 40,000 miles ago.now it USES 1/4 CUP every 3,000 miles.my pistons have 6 drain-back holes every single one was clogged solid making it an oil pump,and the other benefit it passes smog with 1/10 of ALLOWED gases again.
I think your advice is the only way to go, unless some genius works out a way to clean the holes while the pistons are still in the engine........I believe someone will find a way@@FamilyFriendlyDIY
Called it. Knew that the BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner wouldnot do anything of note. I hoped it would but knew it would not. Now if the engine had been full of sludge the BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner would have been the perfect fit. The engine is too far gone all of the other cleaners that have come before did all that could be done via insitu cleaning. I have said this since before you replaced your valve stem seals that you needed to check those valve guides as well!
Yea it works wonderfully. But with already applying all the cleaning agents that have already been tried. There is not much left for BG Dynamic to clean out.
I have an old Honda crv that had the exact issues as your Corolla to include the 420 check engine light. Car ran great, just a lot of oil consumption. I tried all the same snake oil treatments and fixes as you and I ended up spending a weekend rebuilding the engine 2 weeks ago in my driveway. After pulling the pistons, the compression rings were all fine, the ring lands on all the oil rings were just packed with carbon to the point i had to let the pistons soak in chem-dip for an hour to be able to remove the oil rings but I was able to do the whole rebuild for $350, no more oil burning and the p420 check engine light also went away. Good luck, hopefully whatever u have planned next saves you a rebuild.
I tried the Chemtool B12 trick and it worked. 2011 Hyundai Sonata, 188,000 miles, was burning a quart every 500 miles. Now, it has been 3000 miles since that treatment, and the oil dipstick is still reading 3/4. I was truly amazed. Thanks for the idea Dave!!!
I've had moderate success using Chemtrol B-12 on a 2015 Kia Forte that was burning a quart of oil every 300 miles. I did an overnight soak down in each cylinder for 24 hours. I then added more B-12 to one cylinder at a time. I used a compression tester adapter after adding more B-12, as each cylinder had drained down. Then after adding more Chemtrol, I brought each piston up by baring the crank over with a breaker bar, until the valves closed, using compressed air to feel the closed valves. This forced the B-12 down past the rings. After doing all four cylinders, I then spun the engine to remove any additional B-12 and drained the oil, replacing it with new oil. I got the idea to use compressed air in the cylinders after reading the Hyundai Kia TSB on oil consumption. The engine now consumes about a quart of oil every 1,000 miles, still not great, but a lot better.
"DO PREMIUM QUALITY WORK!" Gotta respect you for your tenacity! BTW, the color of the oil doesn't mean much; the time it's been in the engine does. Just check out Royal Purple motor oil, and see how dark it is unused. I own 2012 KIA Sorento; it has 102,500+ miles on it. It was moderately burning oil, so I poured 3 bottles of Berryman's B-12 Chemtool AND IT TOTALLY STOPPED BURNING OIL!!!
I think your videos are better described as a "scientific approach 101 for resolving engine oil consumption". It progressively covers all possible fictitious solutions then finally arrives at the proper solution. Your "Documentary" series has been very educational and equally entertaining.
Dave try some of this oil ,Valvoline Restore & Protect is the first and only motor oil that prevents future deposit formation and restores pistons to factory clean by removing up to 100% of engine-killing deposits.
Internally, the engine is clean now after this treatment. I do agree with you though in that Valvoline Restore & Protect would have done the best job compared to everything he's tried up until this video. I recently began using it about 4 months ago on my g/f's RAV4 which had some small sludge deposits visible from the oil fill cap opening. Cleaned it all out in just 1 oil interval. We are sticking to using it on her RAV4 moving forward. This oil is simply on another level. What he needs are new piston rings and the walls need to be machined all over again.
I’m glad you tried the BG kit, I can say it worked for me on an engine with 40k miles on it with some smoke/sludge issues after trying every other flush/chemical, fuel treatment and piston soak. I went from a quart every 4-500 miles to half a quart in 3500 miles and no more smoke. Excited to continue following your journey and the community you’ve created.
@@rfahlsing VQ35DD and VQ35DE from Nissan/Infiniti. Maintenance schedule says 5000/7500 miles but that fouls them up pretty bad. Lots of reports of “pathfinder or qx60 smoking on startup” on the internet for engines as low as 25-30k miles and then Nissan denying claims and recommending a new engine or rebuild for 15k
The solution to the oil consumption... install a oil separator catch can, draining the capture oil through the dipstick tube back to the crankcase. Try thicker oil as 10W40 or 10W50. Also make a test without the catalytic converter, to check potential back pressure influence.
The introduction of water into the intake tract while the engine is at high idle will clean the piston tops and the combustion chambers but I don't think it will bust thru all that solidified compacted oil in the oil ring lands.
Try Castrol GTX 20W-50, as it will not burn away as fast. If you're keeping this car, I'd recommend a full service on the head along with new pistons and bearings. If the bores are close to stock and still round, a simple hone and set of standard rings, gapped, of course.
During the b12 experiment and you scoped it, it really looked like the walls were super shiny. It could be that they had some residual oil or the cylinder walls are glazed over. Pull the pistons, re-hone it, and re-ring it. That's what I would do. And a valve job.
I was advised to use B&G to clean the carbon buildup on my 2010 Nissan 4.0. It didn't burn oil prior to the B&G. However after the process my engine burned oil so much that I would have to check it every 50 miles. This lasted for about 400 miles when the bottom end started knocking at low rpm. I've never taken a vehicle to a mechanic except for this one time. $300 Snake Oil
Honestly this is a really cool series. I truly have enjoyed watching you show all these methods. One thing I will say though, is as a professional tech I didn’t believe any of them would create an appreciable change in the grand scheme. Just based on the Toyota engines I’ve seen consuming tons of oil, there is no substitute for mechanical repairs. If it was my personal vehicle I’d remove the engine and do a complete tear down and inspection. Replace all Seals and gaskets, probably put new pistons and rings in (if the cylinders were concentric and in spec) and call it a day. It’s your call to continue trying but I hope you eventually go all the way.
I always watch this series, they are so interesting and i usually like a faster paced video, but it’s perfect for killing time at work! haha. I love it and you have an awesome channel, thanks for the hours of entertainment and experiments!
One product that has help many people on newer 1.6 VVTI engines that have oil consumption issues is Xado Verylube Anticarbon. But to the point you are now, I doubt it would have helped. Most people have great success with it when using it right after the oil burning starts. And the issue there is low tension piston rings gumming up with carbon deposits, rather than only the oil drainback holes. In any case, if you end up removing the heads of the engine, I would like to see the state of the pistons rings.
I love this series, you are what makes UA-cam amazing. I think understanding engines at fundamental level is why these things are hard to fix. I know people think 1 liter of oil burned for 300 miles is too much. I actually think it’s not bad. 300 miles roughly equals 10 hours of operation. At 3,000 rpm that means the position has went up and down almost 2 million times!!! Which means an oil thickness of about 10 nanometers around the cylinder walls will cause 1 liter of oil consumption for every 300 miles. That’s why manufactures say 1 liter per 1000 miles is acceptable.
Hey Dave, I've enjoyed your oil burning experiments. You've done countless messy oil changes. I have a couple tips for you to lessen the mess of changing oil. First, after loosening the oil drain plug and just before you remove it, attach your long reach magnet to the oil plug and then spin it out with the magnet, no mess and you won't have to fish it out of the drain pan if you drop it like I saw in one of your videos. Second, before you spin off the oil filter, punch a hole in the bottom of the filter with a screw driver or punch then let it drain until it's empty, less mess. Cheers!
Great Job Dave, as per Usual!👍 The Saga Continues! Thanks for Your Hard work and continued Dedication in the quest to reduce the oil consumption of your car! Thanks also to your Family for their support of you in your quest! 🥰 We appreciate them too! Looking forward to the next phase and wishing you (and us) a successful resolution and Low cost Fix, to a Vexing problem! 😁 Happy New Year! Mike in San Diego. 🌞🎸🚀🖖
This has been a great series! Hope you haven't sacrificed your Corolla in the process. I have an '03 Honda Accord 2.4ltr. with 150k miles. Same exact issues, and the oil consumption was getting worse, every 5-600 miles. I knew my catalytic converter was getting bad so I thought I would try a new one to see if that might help. So my process was this: while I had no cat connected I did the spray type Sea Foam treatment into the intake, then I did your piston soak with Berryman's, again with the cat disconnected. Smoked like crazy and was obviously loud. Then I put the new cat on with new o2 sensors and changed the oil going from 5w-20 to 5w-30 (Castrol GTX syn blend). Got it to 1,100 miles before having to add a quart. It's at another 700 miles with just about a 1/4 down. So definite improvement thus far. So my question is, maybe your catalytic converter is somewhat clogged? I think these engines are vulnerable to back pressure and this could be part of your problem. I think the state you live in allows non-CARB compliant converters so this might be a worthwhile inexpensive experiment to try.
Keyhole surgery might work - remove sump and access the piston drain holes from below. Poke out the blockages using a suitable bent pick of some sort, job done!
howdy, been following your oil consumption episodes for about 2 years now. i thoroughly appreciated your easiness (and patience) throughout. i have a '97 sentra that went thru a qt of oil every 100 mi. after starting my own crankcase chemical clean-up (i've been essentially using sea foam & berryman's b12), it's now improved to a whopping 150 mi/qt. upon inspection at the beginning, all piston crowns were pooled up w/ oil. last time checked, 1 piston crown dried up. cyl leakdown is 5-12% and compression is 175-185%. (note: this engine's pistons have one compression ring: the rings' ends overlap, eliminating an end gap.) unfortunately, higher priority projects have pushed this one out, so it's been about a year since last working on it. when i start on it again, i'll eventually use the yamalube product. i noticed it thoroughly cleaned all 4 piston crowns - very impressive and, where the other chemicals didn't do nearly as well. there's definitely more details to give, but i'll finish by saying i hope to get back on it before the end of the year...and hope your 'mechanical cleaning' does the trick.
Yet another great video Dave. Was really hoping to see a better result from that. You sure have tried about everything and the B12 did the best by far. UMMMMMM makes me wonder if just another dose of the B12 soak may free up those holes? Love it!
Good chance rings / cylinders are too worn after all that experimentation. I've seen BG fix oil consumption on those zz engines when caught soon. It's been an interesting series for sure. 👍
She needs a hone / rings and valve seals. Piston drain back holes cleaned out by hand and inspected. I'm sure you could tackle this job yourself and I'm interested at how clean the pistons sides are at this point!
@@Oofsmagerooyeah 1zz is pretty easy to do a light rebuild on. Don't even need to remove the engine or timing cover. Noob with basic torque wrenching skills can do it. Just takes a long time
I had a Prizim that had a 3 speed auto, same color. Bought used burned a quart every 800 miles. It was fun , wouldn’t go through snow drifts, it would go over them like a sled 🥳
I would replace the valve stem seals before touching the pistons, just because there's much less work involved (although everyone says the issue is at the pistons, so I'd be probably wrong). Once the pistons are out, it may be beneficial to drill the oil drain holes slightly larger in case they are clogged, which is likely as it's the 1ZZ-FE. (What a series this has been!)
@petermolnar8667 My bad too! I was late in the game myself to catch his valve stem seal replacement video. I saw it LONG after ALL the chemical cleaner attempts! It has been an interesting journey following all that he has tried!
That was some brutal smoke! And dark smoke, not 'fluffy white' Seafoam smoke. I'd have half a mind to almost request a refund, that didn't seem great at all.
Seeing the condition of those exhaust valves. I'd be very interested in seeing a way to clean all that build up off of them. Your videos are great and insightful. You make sure and kept the information relevant to all vehicles rather than just this corrolla. I'd love to try some of these things on my engine in the future
I'm very interested in seeing this series play out, I don't know what I'll do when you're finished and have stopped the oil consumption or at least have it well under control, something less than a quart between regular changes
You should do an oil analysis. It would tell you if there is fuel in the oil... which would tell you if the rings were allowing fuel to bypass the rings... which is a simple way of telling if they're stuck. Oil analysis would also tell you where wear is occurring... and that might also help identify where the problem is occurring. 🙂 P.S. Ethanol in the fuel oxidises and polymerises to forms a sludge that is really hard to remove (won't dissolve in normal solvents)... and may be the main reason why the rings get stuck.
Always fun to see updates to the saga, will also be interested to see if consumption improves over time after BG, saw a few videos stating that, but I wouldn’t hold my breath. I can’t recall if you ever sprayed brake clean into the cylinders, not sure if safe, may eat the painted oil pan. Interesting thought on entropy by the way.
Dave, my Dad used to say "we have gathered enough information to prescribe a prognosis without getting out of the vehicle, so lets eliminate the items that can't be the problem and list the ones that we have knowledge of that might be." So It seems to me that you have already proven your oil rings are at fault. With all the oil additives you've used I don't see how there could be any appreciative amount of carbon clogging the return route thru the piston. Berryman's B12 really reduced your consumption. I'd say it had the magic ingredient in it. None of the rest of them have helped reduce pumping and may have made it slightly worse *(I'd suspect due to the viscosity) So, it seems like the only alternative to actually pulling the pistons to do a visual would be to go back to Berryman's B12 Chemtool and go nuclear with it. It's not my car, so don't do what I'd do, but if it was mine, I'd fill it up with B12 and nothing else. Then assign the vehicle to extremely light duty so it can get some honest heat cycles on it with very light loads, loads of no more than a 25 mph flat ground equivalent and keep rpm below 2,000 but above 1,500. I don't know how much lubrication quality B12 can afford pistons, rings, bearings and valve train, so I'd want to stay way beneath about 1/100 of the engines rated output. Only want to run the B12 thru it hot and cold several times for a period each time then try one last time with factory recommended engine oil. You've been all over this thing, so that is what I would've told my Dad. ben/ michigan
The problem with a lot of toyota engines is when the oil control rings gum up and get stuck they start to score the cylinder walls and any chance of a chemical cleaning like this has of really helping a whole lot is usually gone. The damage is usually mechanical at this point and woupd need a rebuild or replacement of the engine.
If you haven’t pulled it apart yet, you might try the Valvoline restore oil. Cumulatively you won’t get back to new. It’s been run too long. It does show how good those cars are. It is a great series.
BG is the best engine cleaning product you can buy. I’ve used it in countless applications with great results! I use EPR. This engine is clapped out. Time to ship it down the road motors. No cleaner will fix it, but good experiment nevertheless!
I admire your dedication to this. I tried barrimens b12 and it was great for about a month. And now it's back to it's usual self. Can't wait to see your next ideas though. Keep up the good work
Holy smokes! I stumbled upon your content, you've been at this for a long time! Much props to you. You are invaluable with your information, moreover I've enjoyed your storytelling.
2 things you can see the clean ring around the pistons in the earlier videos. That’s a dead give away that the oil is getting around the rings and washing the carbon away Also in the video it’s looks real easy to turn the engine over. I’m not sure if the rings as stuck/plugged or worn but it’s time to pull the pistons
I like using a clear plastic pitcher to measure my oil. I have a couple pitchers that have the measurements on the side. If i need 5 quarts or more i just add all 5 quarts and then use the clear pitcher to add any more that is needed. Most of my vehicles take 6 qts or 7 qts.
Great video. I think the most logical fix if the engine has good compression is a rebuilt head. It looks like you have some stem seal problems in some cylinders.
Happy New Year 2024 Dave & family. Well, my dad (84 years old) fixed his oil burning Toyota Vitz (1litre for every 5000Km) by selling it to someone else! He bought a Kia Forte Cerrato, don't know what kind of issues it has yet . . . But I am still following this channel.
@@evgeny7039 well I have owned or still own some 6 other Toyota cars over the past 20 years, which do not burn a single drop of oil over 10,000Km service intervals!
@@pritambissonauth2181 not all toyotas are equal. There are waay too many factors at play. Cold climate, short runs, bad quality oil, city environment, low yearly kms can fuck up even a toyota engine.
Recommendation: I used on a totally worn VW Beetle engine an oil additive named NULON and for worn engines use the GREEN can, 1 is enough. For decent engines use the BLUE, and new engines use the GOLD. It really covers the cylinders with a thick layer of PTFE. My VW behaved like knew and no more oil burning for a long time. The additive was available imported from Europe (Belgium).
Always entertaining...I enjoyed the cruising segments too....My guess is that the piston rings (maybe oil control rings) are worn down too much.....time for a full and proper rebuild with piston rings that are known to not have this oil burning issue.
Some very nice video from Valvoline Restore and Protect oil to remove deposits including what looked like the oil ring drain holes. The deposit removal from the piston looked good, and a product to do what should be helpful to the oil consumption from a major oil company, Thoughts?
Just went through this procedure on my 2009 Pontiac Vibe with a 2AZ-FE toyota engine, currently burning from top to bottom dot in 425 miles. After the 24 hour procedure, I drained the pan 80-90% and added some sacrificial cheap oil before running high RPMs on the highway for 20-30 minutes. Then another drain and added high quality Motul oil. Not sure if it's affected my oil burning yet, but the car definitely feels different. Very quiet, smoother idle, and a bit more low-end pep. The car was poorly maintained before I got it, so I'm hoping the improvements are significant. I'll comment back in after I burn to the bottom marker on the oil again.
my 1zz on celica burned half quart in 2k miles, but i like to push it hard. And i think after running with cat delete it reduced oil consumption, also i put Wynn's 29793 petrol extreme cleaner in 10gallons now, it runs like a rocket, amazing 5th gear torque, now dont even need to downshift to 3rd,
As someone mentioned in an earlier video, you can access the pistons without pulling the engine. Apparently you pull the head, and drop the pan. Unbolt the piston rods from below and top, and simply push them from the pan out the top of the head. Check replace rings as necessary, and re-drill the piston oil passages as per Toyotas later revision. With the compression tests you've done, the pistons seems fine. Not sure why you haven't done a simple leak-down test. Don't think the bores are ovaled per comp. test results, so looks like a simple weekend project.
I was wondering if you retried the B-12 Chemtool to see if the improvement was a fluke or if it comes back as good as the first test. I also thought, if you could apply pressure to the cylinders through the plug holes while soaking with the Chemtool, could it force the liquid into the oil return holes and push the gunk out? You shouldn't need a ton of pressure to push the liquid down the cylinder sides into the ring grooves. Might be able to use an air compressor blower tool with a long nozzle with a cork pushed down into the plug hole. Just a thought.
I did a couple of B12 treatments. I do think it worked, not just from my results, but from a lot of anecdotal evidence from others who tried it before and after me. Seems like more people have has success from B12 than anything else we've tried. ... Pressurising is a good idea. The Seafoam site recomments just putting the plugs back in and turning the cylinders to let compression force the liquid through the rings.
enjoyed your videos, watched this series to this end 1, looking at last scope of valves/pistons, wow, looks to need physical removal and cleaning of valves and new rings, but I am just a weekend mechanic at best, so, looking forward to your end result, thanks for the vids.
Many moons ago I had a Toyota Corolla that had huge oil consumption issue and valves that looked like yours. It had just over 170,000km on it. I added 1L of diesel to 3L of engine oil and drove it in 3rd gear (stick shift) keeping rpm around 6000 for just over 200km. Drained the oil and it was dirtier than a 64 year old French woman working on the Amsterdam red light district. Checked the valves and 99% of the carbon was GONE. It still used a bit of oil, much less and even less after replacing the valve stem seals. You should try driving the crap out of it. Good luck
Hello Dave. There is one more step that i would like to see you do if the problem is truly the drain back holes in the piston clogged. The process is simple and should easily cure it if that is truly the problem. Fill the cylinders with carburetor boil like Berryman Chem Dip parts cleaner. Don't worry about rotating the engine or anything else. Just fill the cylinders and keep them topped off for the week and then drain the oil and refill with new oil. Dissolving stuff like that is exactly what carburetor boil is designed to do.
BG do a superb product called EPR, which is designed to be used in a similar manner to an engine flush. It is supposed to soften the carbon deposits around the piston rings and hopefully allow the piston rings to regain their flexibility and movement again. There is as always a but, some cars are beyond saving, but having used it myself in the past, and taking compression readings before and after, no other changes other than the EPR treatment, I got a 15% improvement on three cylinders, and 35% on another. The car felt like it had a totally different engine in it. Sometimes though new parts are required, for $20 a can of EPR could be worth the expense, but it might end up doing nothing.
I have a 2011 corolla S with the 1.8l in it with 335k miles. Since it hit 300k miles Ive started to change the oil at every 3k miles. In my case; I believe its the piston rings. I use penziol platnium 0w20 and it sips on about a quater of a 1/8 qt per 3k miles. I dont mind it and will just keep topping it off and checking it every other day while the engine is totally cold for more acurate readings.
Yeah that expensive oil flush kit is for heavily sludge engines from lack of oil changes 😢 Glad everyone thumbs 👍 for all his previous videos to make it possible for him to try these chemicals But alas, the real fix is to upgrade the rings 😢 Or live with it and top up the oil level religiously 😅 Neat trick with a disposable cup for oil filters in that orientation 3:35 Still not using a crush washer for the oil drain plug?😮 4:30
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY hehe I know that the drain plug is nice and flat to the steel oil pan mating surfaces 😂 I recently got a 100 pack of aluminum oil drain plug crush washers from eBay for $10 shipped to maintain my relatives and my fleet of a dozen vehicles 14mm size washers and I'll be glad to mail you 6 since they're reusable a few times (even though owners and service manuals say to change them out)
Hi Dave, thank you for the great videos mate, but I’m not sure why you chose this when BG’s website says clearly this product is only for vehicles with sludges engines. But is been a fun ride 😂
Entire oil burning playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj.html
I think your motor is beyond help and just needs to be rebuilt you've already blew all kinds of money on products and they all failed only thing you didn't and won't try is engine restore I don't understand why your trying everything else if restore can't help it then it just needs to be rebuilt its beyond the help of any kind of oil treatment can offer or do
@@robbieturnbull4253 The B12 Chemtool and Seafoam is not expensive, so they were worth a try, but I agree with you that his engine probably needs to be bored .30 over and new pistons and rings installed, I myself have used Total Seal gap less rings in my Ford 302 motor and my 2110 CC stroked 1968 VW beetle engine I built.
@@robbieturnbull4253 it's an experiment to see if any of these products will make a difference or reduce the burning, some people can't afford this and in some engines this has actually been very successful
I believe engine restore will only mask the problem@@robbieturnbull4253
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY DAVE (caps for emphasis, not screaming ), I can't believe you haven't installed a fumoto valve on this car yet, makes draining the oil soooo easy compared to removing and replacing the bolt every time. Quality product, I've had mine for more thatn 10 years, zero issues.
A co-worker of mine got one of these for free a year and a half ago for doing work for one of his customers. His was at the point where it would burn A quart of oil every 300 mi. He had tried chemical repairs for 3 years, but it seemed like every year it would have to come in for another dose.
He pulled the motor and we rebuilt the engine in about 10 hours over the course of a week. Of the 16 oil return holes, 14. Were plugged when we initially pulled the pistons, 11 were still plugged after 2 hours in the parts washer, and four of them were so stuffed full of hard carbon, that we ended up having to drill them out.
The fix, as noted in the forums, is to either drill the oil return holes to the next size up, or by adding two additional return holes in between both existing oil return holes on both sides.
We ended up doing both. The two competing theories are that by oversizing the return holes, they will transfer less heat into the oil as it gets scraped back down into the pan, reducing the chance that it can coke up and plug the holes again. And that the additional oil holes were a factory fix in the updated Pistons for the 1zz/2zz engines.
Either way, the return holes were gross and it honestly took more time than it ever. Should have to get those pistons clean, although there was no reason to replace them. The Molly coating on the piston skirt did wear but it hadn't worn away completely.
We ended up rebuilding the motor in the most sloppy mechanic way possible. Everything was cleaned and reused. The bores were honed out, and although the deck and head were checked for trueness and were in spec, we never sent them out for machining.
It got the cheapest rebuild kit on RockAuto, and got fresh bearings and a timing set and water pump.
Since then he is driven it about 10,000 mi. The only times he's added oil, have been to fill it up after an oil change. Total consumption between oil changes was 2/10 of a quart, and some of that could be the motor breaking in again.
(He did end up having an external coolant leak from the head gasket, but I blame that on the cheap head gasket more than anything else. Doing it again. That's the only thing either of us would change)
Good info. Love this comment!
Really outstanding series. No question, you’ve diligently given all of the chemical options a fair shot. Thanks for doing this!
Thank you :-)
3 years is along time Dave. I sat and binged watched your oil burning Corolla series. I enjoy it very much. And I'm looking for results as my car is burning oil also. Looking forward to the next video. Keep up the good work!! 🤘
Thanks Clint! Much appreciated :-)
Honestly the result is cylinder head job, replace worn valves, valve seats and stem seals and off course the piston rings, most important the oil rings.
Loved the series Dave was a pleasure to watch and see the trips in between, makes me want to go back to the states
Guess I got lucky. I got the answer first time.
How do you know that the cylinders are still. within specs? You dont just replace piston rings, you change bearings as well and you check the block and the shape of cylinders. It might need liners also. Thats not a cylinder head job, it is engine rebuild. You dont have a clue.@@aloisdecroon6096
I always use marvel mystery oil in oil and fuel to keep rings lose and free
Looks like the oil stayed a lot cleaner for longer. As far as I can tell BG is good for removing all that old oil varnish. You can actually kind of see this in the shots of the oil filter housings. So from what I have seen from others, yes, BG will clean up everything and free up sticky rings and fix oil consumption issues by restoring ring tension provided there is no mechanical wear. In this case, though, I think this into the mechanical issue realm that no chemical is going to correct.
Looks like a lot of people agree with you! Thanks for the comment!
I work for BG and am currently doing this service as we speak!
@@1TIMEF1lmannnn how come it’s so difficult to get this stuff in the UK !!!!??
I'd do the valve seals first. Easier because it's the top-end. You definitely have oil coming down the stems from the look of it. You can keep the valves at the top by pressurizing the cylinders with a leak-down tester using air pressure to hold the valves in place while you change the seals.
That's already been done like three times
Been done
its the rings, the oil is litterly getting blown into the intake, and has uneven compression. he should remove the valves and atleast lap the seats and get all the build up off. the rings, and the ring groves will both be worn.
This has nothing to do with valves, this is from excessive crankcase pressure
@@spartanpatriot3163 Whatever it's over 20 year old no magic in a can is going to fix a mechanical problem whatever it is
Hi David,i can tell you from my experience with my 94 Honda civic with 530,000 miles original motor.i bought it new.You NEED to remove the pistons and rings,buy a new set of stocks rings, brand won't matter,hone a crosshatch pattern with a flex hone in the CLYS.and NUMBER 1 use a .093 dia drill BY HAND in a pin vise and ream out the OIL DRAIN BACK HOLES.My car used to burn 1 qt every 100 miles and that was 4 yrs and 40,000 miles ago.now it USES 1/4 CUP every 3,000 miles.my pistons have 6 drain-back holes every single one was clogged solid making it an oil pump,and the other benefit it passes smog with 1/10 of ALLOWED gases again.
Thnaks for the advice Roberto!
I think your advice is the only way to go, unless some genius works out a way to clean the holes while the pistons are still in the engine........I believe someone will find a way@@FamilyFriendlyDIY
Did you ever try a Berryman piston soak from above?
@@JonnyAbs-0
He did with limited success. He made a video about it too.
This series will be super helpful for anyone dealing with this oil burning issue. Thanks a lot for creating it!
Thank YOU for watching!!
Called it. Knew that the BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner wouldnot do anything of note. I hoped it would but knew it would not. Now if the engine had been full of sludge the BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner would have been the perfect fit. The engine is too far gone all of the other cleaners that have come before did all that could be done via insitu cleaning. I have said this since before you replaced your valve stem seals that you needed to check those valve guides as well!
Yea it works wonderfully. But with already applying all the cleaning agents that have already been tried. There is not much left for BG Dynamic to clean out.
I have an old Honda crv that had the exact issues as your Corolla to include the 420 check engine light. Car ran great, just a lot of oil consumption. I tried all the same snake oil treatments and fixes as you and I ended up spending a weekend rebuilding the engine 2 weeks ago in my driveway. After pulling the pistons, the compression rings were all fine, the ring lands on all the oil rings were just packed with carbon to the point i had to let the pistons soak in chem-dip for an hour to be able to remove the oil rings but I was able to do the whole rebuild for $350, no more oil burning and the p420 check engine light also went away. Good luck, hopefully whatever u have planned next saves you a rebuild.
That's awesome, Antwain! and if it comes to that (which I think it will) I hope mine goes as easy :-)
What do you think caused it?
I tried the Chemtool B12 trick and it worked. 2011 Hyundai Sonata, 188,000 miles, was burning a quart every 500 miles. Now, it has been 3000 miles since that treatment, and the oil dipstick is still reading 3/4. I was truly amazed. Thanks for the idea Dave!!!
Thanks for another sucess story Michael!
@michaelcochran7392 Did you apply to crankcase and fuel or just fuel?
You'll have to watch the original video with B12 to see how its done@maxe.1204
Did you let the berrymans soak cold or warm
@@colebarnes3938Any idea?
I've had moderate success using Chemtrol B-12 on a 2015 Kia Forte that was burning a quart of oil every 300 miles. I did an overnight soak down in each cylinder for 24 hours. I then added more B-12 to one cylinder at a time. I used a compression tester adapter after adding more B-12, as each cylinder had drained down. Then after adding more Chemtrol, I brought each piston up by baring the crank over with a breaker bar, until the valves closed, using compressed air to feel the closed valves. This forced the B-12 down past the rings. After doing all four cylinders, I then spun the engine to remove any additional B-12 and drained the oil, replacing it with new oil. I got the idea to use compressed air in the cylinders after reading the Hyundai Kia TSB on oil consumption. The engine now consumes about a quart of oil every 1,000 miles, still not great, but a lot better.
That paper cup is genius!
This is the best oil change channel on youtube ;)
😂
"DO PREMIUM QUALITY WORK!" Gotta respect you for your tenacity! BTW, the color of the oil doesn't mean much; the time it's been in the engine does. Just check out Royal Purple motor oil, and see how dark it is unused. I own 2012 KIA Sorento; it has 102,500+ miles on it. It was moderately burning oil, so I poured 3 bottles of Berryman's B-12 Chemtool AND IT TOTALLY STOPPED BURNING OIL!!!
How long did you run it with the B12?
I have a 2016 rio. Where did you pour it? Did you also do a soak?
I haven't seen it yet but I am so excited. It feels like a series finally to a great show lol!
:-)
Season Finale indeed 😂
I think your videos are better described as a "scientific approach 101 for resolving engine oil consumption".
It progressively covers all possible fictitious solutions then finally arrives at the proper solution.
Your "Documentary" series has been very educational and equally entertaining.
Thanks for the kind comment!
Dave try some of this oil ,Valvoline Restore & Protect is the first and only motor oil that prevents future deposit formation and restores pistons to factory clean by removing up to 100% of engine-killing deposits.
Internally, the engine is clean now after this treatment.
I do agree with you though in that Valvoline Restore & Protect would have done the best job compared to everything he's tried up until this video.
I recently began using it about 4 months ago on my g/f's RAV4 which had some small sludge deposits visible from the oil fill cap opening. Cleaned it all out in just 1 oil interval. We are sticking to using it on her RAV4 moving forward.
This oil is simply on another level.
What he needs are new piston rings and the walls need to be machined all over again.
Been waiting months for this…well done great video once again Dave Sir
Thanks Stephen!!
Can't Wait to see the piston rings when you take apart the engine to see if you can clean /fix it
Yes, love this series.
And I love your gospel message. I hope people hear and come to accept Jesus
I’m glad you tried the BG kit, I can say it worked for me on an engine with 40k miles on it with some smoke/sludge issues after trying every other flush/chemical, fuel treatment and piston soak. I went from a quart every 4-500 miles to half a quart in 3500 miles and no more smoke. Excited to continue following your journey and the community you’ve created.
Thanks! And glad to hear it worked for you Ross!
What engine with 40,000 miles burns a quart of oil every 500 miles?
@@rfahlsing VQ35DD and VQ35DE from Nissan/Infiniti. Maintenance schedule says 5000/7500 miles but that fouls them up pretty bad. Lots of reports of “pathfinder or qx60 smoking on startup” on the internet for engines as low as 25-30k miles and then Nissan denying claims and recommending a new engine or rebuild for 15k
The solution to the oil consumption... install a oil separator catch can, draining the capture oil through the dipstick tube back to the crankcase. Try thicker oil as 10W40 or 10W50. Also make a test without the catalytic converter, to check potential back pressure influence.
The editing on your videos is perfect! Just the right amount of detail without too much. The split screen placing the ramps... 👍😁
Much appreciated jimbo!
The introduction of water into the intake tract while the engine is at high idle will clean the piston tops and the combustion chambers but I don't think it will bust thru all that solidified compacted oil in the oil ring lands.
These are gold , DIY Dave. pure gold.
Thank you! 😊
Great idea. Let's clean those oil holes. 👍
Try Castrol GTX 20W-50, as it will not burn away as fast. If you're keeping this car, I'd recommend a full service on the head along with new pistons and bearings. If the bores are close to stock and still round, a simple hone and set of standard rings, gapped, of course.
That might be way too thick
Dude ever heard of winters?
During the b12 experiment and you scoped it, it really looked like the walls were super shiny. It could be that they had some residual oil or the cylinder walls are glazed over. Pull the pistons, re-hone it, and re-ring it. That's what I would do.
And a valve job.
Agreed except for a valve job. 1zz valve job needs skill. Rings and hone not so much
I can't wait to see those new total seal piston rings go on with a 3 angle valve job with new valve seals
Thank you for preventing me from buying that kit. I was skeptical now I know why. Enjoying this series very much.
I was advised to use B&G to clean the carbon buildup on my 2010 Nissan 4.0. It didn't burn oil prior to the B&G. However after the process my engine burned oil so much that I would have to check it every 50 miles. This lasted for about 400 miles when the bottom end started knocking at low rpm. I've never taken a vehicle to a mechanic except for this one time. $300 Snake Oil
Honestly this is a really cool series. I truly have enjoyed watching you show all these methods. One thing I will say though, is as a professional tech I didn’t believe any of them would create an appreciable change in the grand scheme. Just based on the Toyota engines I’ve seen consuming tons of oil, there is no substitute for mechanical repairs. If it was my personal vehicle I’d remove the engine and do a complete tear down and inspection. Replace all Seals and gaskets, probably put new pistons and rings in (if the cylinders were concentric and in spec) and call it a day. It’s your call to continue trying but I hope you eventually go all the way.
If you plan on redoing the rings I suggest having the Car Care Nut do the work. Be a cool collab vid
I'd love that, just don't know if he has time for a peon like me. :-/
AMD won't touch this car he doesn't believe in boring out engines for oversized pistons he simply orders a short block and reseals the head
Glad you picked my choice of BG, it still won't fix mechanical issues.
I noticed the area where the oil filter mounts was significantly cleaner after the dynamic cleaner!
I always watch this series, they are so interesting and i usually like a faster paced video, but it’s perfect for killing time at work! haha. I love it and you have an awesome channel, thanks for the hours of entertainment and experiments!
Your kind comment is much appreciated! :-)
One product that has help many people on newer 1.6 VVTI engines that have oil consumption issues is Xado Verylube Anticarbon. But to the point you are now, I doubt it would have helped. Most people have great success with it when using it right after the oil burning starts. And the issue there is low tension piston rings gumming up with carbon deposits, rather than only the oil drainback holes. In any case, if you end up removing the heads of the engine, I would like to see the state of the pistons rings.
I love this series, you are what makes UA-cam amazing.
I think understanding engines at fundamental level is why these things are hard to fix.
I know people think 1 liter of oil burned for 300 miles is too much. I actually think it’s not bad. 300 miles roughly equals 10 hours of operation. At 3,000 rpm that means the position has went up and down almost 2 million times!!! Which means an oil thickness of about 10 nanometers around the cylinder walls will cause 1 liter of oil consumption for every 300 miles. That’s why manufactures say 1 liter per 1000 miles is acceptable.
Much appreciated :-) and I love your glass-half-full attitude!
Forged pistons and connecting rods inbound!!! Awesome video and series.
Hey Dave, I've enjoyed your oil burning experiments. You've done countless messy oil changes. I have a couple tips for you to lessen the mess of changing oil. First, after loosening the oil drain plug and just before you remove it, attach your long reach magnet to the oil plug and then spin it out with the magnet, no mess and you won't have to fish it out of the drain pan if you drop it like I saw in one of your videos. Second, before you spin off the oil filter, punch a hole in the bottom of the filter with a screw driver or punch then let it drain until it's empty, less mess. Cheers!
So good. I appreciate your patience! Looking forward to more. The videos are fun, entertaining, and informative. Lesson learned: Don't buy snake oil.
Great Job Dave, as per Usual!👍
The Saga Continues!
Thanks for Your Hard work and continued Dedication in the quest to reduce the oil consumption of your car!
Thanks also to your Family for their support of you in your quest! 🥰
We appreciate them too!
Looking forward to the next phase and wishing you (and us) a successful resolution and Low cost Fix, to a Vexing problem! 😁
Happy New Year!
Mike in San Diego. 🌞🎸🚀🖖
Thanks Mike! Happy New Year to you and yours! :-)
This has been a great series! Hope you haven't sacrificed your Corolla in the process. I have an '03 Honda Accord 2.4ltr. with 150k miles. Same exact issues, and the oil consumption was getting worse, every 5-600 miles. I knew my catalytic converter was getting bad so I thought I would try a new one to see if that might help. So my process was this: while I had no cat connected I did the spray type Sea Foam treatment into the intake, then I did your piston soak with Berryman's, again with the cat disconnected. Smoked like crazy and was obviously loud. Then I put the new cat on with new o2 sensors and changed the oil going from 5w-20 to 5w-30 (Castrol GTX syn blend). Got it to 1,100 miles before having to add a quart. It's at another 700 miles with just about a 1/4 down. So definite improvement thus far. So my question is, maybe your catalytic converter is somewhat clogged? I think these engines are vulnerable to back pressure and this could be part of your problem. I think the state you live in allows non-CARB compliant converters so this might be a worthwhile inexpensive experiment to try.
We scoped the cat in a previous video, Samuel. I think it already has an aftermarket on it, and it sounds pretty free flowing.
Keyhole surgery might work - remove sump and access the piston drain holes from below. Poke out the blockages using a suitable bent pick of some sort, job done!
A new short block is the only thing that will work. The scoring on the cylinder wall is what is causing the oil usage.
howdy, been following your oil consumption episodes for about 2 years now. i thoroughly appreciated your easiness (and patience) throughout. i have a '97 sentra that went thru a qt of oil every 100 mi. after starting my own crankcase chemical clean-up (i've been essentially using sea foam & berryman's b12), it's now improved to a whopping 150 mi/qt. upon inspection at the beginning, all piston crowns were pooled up w/ oil. last time checked, 1 piston crown dried up. cyl leakdown is 5-12% and compression is 175-185%. (note: this engine's pistons have one compression ring: the rings' ends overlap, eliminating an end gap.) unfortunately, higher priority projects have pushed this one out, so it's been about a year since last working on it. when i start on it again, i'll eventually use the yamalube product. i noticed it thoroughly cleaned all 4 piston crowns - very impressive and, where the other chemicals didn't do nearly as well. there's definitely more details to give, but i'll finish by saying i hope to get back on it before the end of the year...and hope your 'mechanical cleaning' does the trick.
That's great, and please do keep us posted Norm!
Yet another great video Dave. Was really hoping to see a better result from that. You sure have tried about everything and the B12 did the best by far. UMMMMMM makes me wonder if just another dose of the B12 soak may free up those holes? Love it!
Thank you Thomas! I wonder the same thing .... but .....
Please Dave one more! 🫥
Good chance rings / cylinders are too worn after all that experimentation. I've seen BG fix oil consumption on those zz engines when caught soon. It's been an interesting series for sure. 👍
Thank you!! I hope there's life in the cylinders at least.
She needs a hone / rings and valve seals. Piston drain back holes cleaned out by hand and inspected.
I'm sure you could tackle this job yourself and I'm interested at how clean the pistons sides are at this point!
@@Oofsmagerooyeah 1zz is pretty easy to do a light rebuild on. Don't even need to remove the engine or timing cover. Noob with basic torque wrenching skills can do it.
Just takes a long time
@@FamilyFriendlyDIYas long a they don't need to be bored, a hone and rings will get it back 200+ compression dry with no burn.
I had a Prizim that had a 3 speed auto, same color. Bought used burned a quart every 800 miles. It was fun , wouldn’t go through snow drifts, it would go over them like a sled 🥳
I would replace the valve stem seals before touching the pistons, just because there's much less work involved (although everyone says the issue is at the pistons, so I'd be probably wrong). Once the pistons are out, it may be beneficial to drill the oil drain holes slightly larger in case they are clogged, which is likely as it's the 1ZZ-FE. (What a series this has been!)
If you go back 1 YEAR and watch his videos he already replaced the valve stem seals BEFORE trying all the chemical cleaners!
@@garybuffington6021 thanks a lot, I guess I've forgotten. It was a long journey wasn't it
@petermolnar8667 My bad too! I was late in the game myself to catch his valve stem seal replacement video. I saw it LONG after ALL the chemical cleaner attempts! It has been an interesting journey following all that he has tried!
One of my favorite series on youtube. I might watch it all even if I didn't have a 2AZ-FE
Thanks for the kind comment. Much appreciated!
You should have asked those chickens why they crossed the road! This was our last chance 😂
I’ve learned to do the smoky stuff after dark.
That was some brutal smoke! And dark smoke, not 'fluffy white' Seafoam smoke. I'd have half a mind to almost request a refund, that didn't seem great at all.
Seeing the condition of those exhaust valves. I'd be very interested in seeing a way to clean all that build up off of them.
Your videos are great and insightful. You make sure and kept the information relevant to all vehicles rather than just this corrolla.
I'd love to try some of these things on my engine in the future
Thanks for the kind comment!
awesome series enjoyed all of it. Hope you do a rebuild video these are fairly easy and lots of parts still available
I'm very interested in seeing this series play out, I don't know what I'll do when you're finished and have stopped the oil consumption or at least have it well under control, something less than a quart between regular changes
Love the frugality of keeping this old Yota on the road, but it may be time for the scrap yard.
You should do an oil analysis.
It would tell you if there is fuel in the oil... which would tell you if the rings were allowing fuel to bypass the rings... which is a simple way of telling if they're stuck.
Oil analysis would also tell you where wear is occurring... and that might also help identify where the problem is occurring.
🙂
P.S. Ethanol in the fuel oxidises and polymerises to forms a sludge that is really hard to remove (won't dissolve in normal solvents)... and may be the main reason why the rings get stuck.
Always fun to see updates to the saga, will also be interested to see if consumption improves over time after BG, saw a few videos stating that, but I wouldn’t hold my breath. I can’t recall if you ever sprayed brake clean into the cylinders, not sure if safe, may eat the painted oil pan. Interesting thought on entropy by the way.
Never tried the brake cleaner, but that's another great suggestion. Thanks for the kind comment!
I've been subscribed since the beginning with notifications on and I still check to see if a video was posted
Thank you for that!! It is very much appreciated!!
Dave, my Dad used to say "we have gathered enough information to prescribe a prognosis without getting out of the vehicle, so lets eliminate the items that can't be the problem and list the ones that we have knowledge of that might be." So It seems to me that you have already proven your oil rings are at fault. With all the oil additives you've used I don't see how there could be any appreciative amount of carbon clogging the return route thru the piston. Berryman's B12 really reduced your consumption. I'd say it had the magic ingredient in it. None of the rest of them have helped reduce pumping and may have made it slightly worse *(I'd suspect due to the viscosity) So, it seems like the only alternative to actually pulling the pistons to do a visual would be to go back to Berryman's B12 Chemtool and go nuclear with it. It's not my car, so don't do what I'd do, but if it was mine, I'd fill it up with B12 and nothing else. Then assign the vehicle to extremely light duty so it can get some honest heat cycles on it with very light loads, loads of no more than a 25 mph flat ground equivalent and keep rpm below 2,000 but above 1,500. I don't know how much lubrication quality B12 can afford pistons, rings, bearings and valve train, so I'd want to stay way beneath about 1/100 of the engines rated output. Only want to run the B12 thru it hot and cold several times for a period each time then try one last time with factory recommended engine oil. You've been all over this thing, so that is what I would've told my Dad. ben/ michigan
Excellent videos,
I look forward to one day seeing what state the oil control rings are in 😀
I have heard some positive things about the new Valvoline Restore and Protect oil. I'm going to put it in my Scion Xb to see how it goes.
This series inspired me to do chemical experiments on my 2004 Buick LeSabre with 200k miles.
The problem with a lot of toyota engines is when the oil control rings gum up and get stuck they start to score the cylinder walls and any chance of a chemical cleaning like this has of really helping a whole lot is usually gone. The damage is usually mechanical at this point and woupd need a rebuild or replacement of the engine.
valve stem seals is what i would recommend before tearing the bottom end apart
Been an awesome series to follow… thank you
Thanks for watching!
Thumbs up as soon as I saw the oil bung fumble. I can relate!
It gets me almost every time. 🫤
If you haven’t pulled it apart yet, you might try the Valvoline restore oil. Cumulatively you won’t get back to new. It’s been run too long. It does show how good those cars are. It is a great series.
BG is the best engine cleaning product you can buy. I’ve used it in countless applications with great results! I use EPR. This engine is clapped out. Time to ship it down the road motors. No cleaner will fix it, but good experiment nevertheless!
I admire your dedication to this. I tried barrimens b12 and it was great for about a month. And now it's back to it's usual self.
Can't wait to see your next ideas though. Keep up the good work
Thanks ... and sorry Berryman's didn't do better for you.
Holy smokes! I stumbled upon your content, you've been at this for a long time! Much props to you. You are invaluable with your information, moreover I've enjoyed your storytelling.
Thank you so much for your kind comment!
Thanks. That clears some things up now. Great video, Dave!👍
Thanks Steven!
It's crazy how North Carolina almost looks exactly like Southern Ontario, and this year too especially, we've barely had any snow at all.
🤔
I can’t believe it’s been 3 years?! I hope you do a rebuild and possibly a series on it.
I'm hoping to!
:-) 👍
2 things you can see the clean ring around the pistons in the earlier videos. That’s a dead give away that the oil is getting around the rings and washing the carbon away
Also in the video it’s looks real easy to turn the engine over. I’m not sure if the rings as stuck/plugged or worn but it’s time to pull the pistons
I like using a clear plastic pitcher to measure my oil. I have a couple pitchers that have the measurements on the side. If i need 5 quarts or more i just add all 5 quarts and then use the clear pitcher to add any more that is needed. Most of my vehicles take 6 qts or 7 qts.
Bravo. Looking forward to the future series. Thoroughly enjoyable and informative.
Great video. I think the most logical fix if the engine has good compression is a rebuilt head. It looks like you have some stem seal problems in some cylinders.
He has replaced them long ago
Happy New Year 2024 Dave & family. Well, my dad (84 years old) fixed his oil burning Toyota Vitz (1litre for every 5000Km) by selling it to someone else! He bought a Kia Forte Cerrato, don't know what kind of issues it has yet . . . But I am still following this channel.
Thank you! Happy New Year to you and yours!!!
1L per 5000k is not a big issue by every car manufacturer standard. Toyota can go another 100,000 easy.
@@evgeny7039 well I have owned or still own some 6 other Toyota cars over the past 20 years, which do not burn a single drop of oil over 10,000Km service intervals!
@@pritambissonauth2181 not all toyotas are equal. There are waay too many factors at play. Cold climate, short runs, bad quality oil, city environment, low yearly kms can fuck up even a toyota engine.
He better have disclosed the oil burning issue with the buyer. People who don't disclose known issues are cro-oks.
Recommendation:
I used on a totally worn VW Beetle engine an oil additive named NULON and for worn engines use the GREEN can, 1 is enough.
For decent engines use the BLUE, and new engines use the GOLD.
It really covers the cylinders with a thick layer of PTFE.
My VW behaved like knew and no more oil burning for a long time.
The additive was available imported from Europe (Belgium).
Always entertaining...I enjoyed the cruising segments too....My guess is that the piston rings (maybe oil control rings) are worn down too much.....time for a full and proper rebuild with piston rings that are known to not have this oil burning issue.
That's my assumption as well. I've seen ZZ engines drop a cylinder 20k miles after the oil consumption has become noticeable.
Im looking forward to the next steps! Keep up the good work! 🤗
Thank you!! 😊
Some very nice video from Valvoline Restore and Protect oil to remove deposits including what looked like the oil ring drain holes. The deposit removal from the piston looked good, and a product to do what should be helpful to the oil consumption from a major oil company, Thoughts?
I hadn't heard of that, but just looked it up. Interesting🤔
Just went through this procedure on my 2009 Pontiac Vibe with a 2AZ-FE toyota engine, currently burning from top to bottom dot in 425 miles. After the 24 hour procedure, I drained the pan 80-90% and added some sacrificial cheap oil before running high RPMs on the highway for 20-30 minutes. Then another drain and added high quality Motul oil.
Not sure if it's affected my oil burning yet, but the car definitely feels different. Very quiet, smoother idle, and a bit more low-end pep. The car was poorly maintained before I got it, so I'm hoping the improvements are significant. I'll comment back in after I burn to the bottom marker on the oil again.
Thanks for the comment, and yes, please do let us know how it goes!
my 1zz on celica burned half quart in 2k miles, but i like to push it hard. And i think after running with cat delete it reduced oil consumption, also i put Wynn's 29793 petrol extreme cleaner in 10gallons now, it runs like a rocket, amazing 5th gear torque, now dont even need to downshift to 3rd,
As someone mentioned in an earlier video, you can access the pistons without pulling the engine.
Apparently you pull the head, and drop the pan.
Unbolt the piston rods from below and top, and simply push them from the pan out the top of the head.
Check replace rings as necessary, and re-drill the piston oil passages as per Toyotas later revision.
With the compression tests you've done, the pistons seems fine.
Not sure why you haven't done a simple leak-down test.
Don't think the bores are ovaled per comp. test results, so looks like a simple weekend project.
Thanks, and I did a leak-down test a ways back :-)
I was wondering if you retried the B-12 Chemtool to see if the improvement was a fluke or if it comes back as good as the first test. I also thought, if you could apply pressure to the cylinders through the plug holes while soaking with the Chemtool, could it force the liquid into the oil return holes and push the gunk out? You shouldn't need a ton of pressure to push the liquid down the cylinder sides into the ring grooves. Might be able to use an air compressor blower tool with a long nozzle with a cork pushed down into the plug hole. Just a thought.
I did a couple of B12 treatments. I do think it worked, not just from my results, but from a lot of anecdotal evidence from others who tried it before and after me. Seems like more people have has success from B12 than anything else we've tried. ... Pressurising is a good idea. The Seafoam site recomments just putting the plugs back in and turning the cylinders to let compression force the liquid through the rings.
You should try Valvoline Protect and Restore motor oil, they claim it cleans rings in 4 oil changes. No additives, just motor oil.
enjoyed your videos, watched this series to this end 1, looking at last scope of valves/pistons, wow, looks to need physical removal and cleaning of valves and new rings, but I am just a weekend mechanic at best, so, looking forward to your end result, thanks for the vids.
Thanks for watching Jon!
Many moons ago I had a Toyota Corolla that had huge oil consumption issue and valves that looked like yours. It had just over 170,000km on it. I added 1L of diesel to 3L of engine oil and drove it in 3rd gear (stick shift) keeping rpm around 6000 for just over 200km. Drained the oil and it was dirtier than a 64 year old French woman working on the Amsterdam red light district. Checked the valves and 99% of the carbon was GONE. It still used a bit of oil, much less and even less after replacing the valve stem seals. You should try driving the crap out of it. Good luck
Love your test, it’s like a series and I’m always excited for the next episode! Haha looking forward to the next one!
Thank you!
Hello Dave. There is one more step that i would like to see you do if the problem is truly the drain back holes in the piston clogged.
The process is simple and should easily cure it if that is truly the problem.
Fill the cylinders with carburetor boil like Berryman Chem Dip parts cleaner. Don't worry about rotating the engine or anything else. Just fill the cylinders and keep them topped off for the week and then drain the oil and refill with new oil. Dissolving stuff like that is exactly what carburetor boil is designed to do.
🤔
BG do a superb product called EPR, which is designed to be used in a similar manner to an engine flush. It is supposed to soften the carbon deposits around the piston rings and hopefully allow the piston rings to regain their flexibility and movement again.
There is as always a but, some cars are beyond saving, but having used it myself in the past, and taking compression readings before and after, no other changes other than the EPR treatment, I got a 15% improvement on three cylinders, and 35% on another. The car felt like it had a totally different engine in it.
Sometimes though new parts are required, for $20 a can of EPR could be worth the expense, but it might end up doing nothing.
I have a 2011 corolla S with the 1.8l in it with 335k miles.
Since it hit 300k miles Ive started to change the oil at every 3k miles.
In my case; I believe its the piston rings.
I use penziol platnium 0w20 and it sips on about a quater of a 1/8 qt per 3k miles.
I dont mind it and will just keep topping it off and checking it every other day while the engine is totally cold for more acurate readings.
Yeah that expensive oil flush kit is for heavily sludge engines from lack of oil changes 😢
Glad everyone thumbs 👍 for all his previous videos to make it possible for him to try these chemicals
But alas, the real fix is to upgrade the rings 😢
Or live with it and top up the oil level religiously 😅
Neat trick with a disposable cup for oil filters in that orientation 3:35
Still not using a crush washer for the oil drain plug?😮 4:30
:-) Thanks for the support!! .... If the drain plug don't leak ... don't change it ;-)
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY hehe I know that the drain plug is nice and flat to the steel oil pan mating surfaces 😂
I recently got a 100 pack of aluminum oil drain plug crush washers from eBay for $10 shipped to maintain my relatives and my fleet of a dozen vehicles
14mm size washers and I'll be glad to mail you 6 since they're reusable a few times (even though owners and service manuals say to change them out)
Hi Dave, thank you for the great videos mate, but I’m not sure why you chose this when BG’s website says clearly this product is only for vehicles with sludges engines.
But is been a fun ride 😂
Thanks! ... and it's what the viewers asked for.
Great series. Thanks for all your hard work.