BG Dynamic Platinum Engine Restoration vs. Oil Consumption | Oil Burning🔥Experiments | Episode 29
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- Will BG Dynamic Platinum Engine Restoration Service stop the oil burning?
Entire oil burning playlist: • Oil Consumption Experi...
BG Dynamic Platinum Engine Restoration Kit: www.amazon.com...
Blue Driver obd II scanner: www.amazon.com...
catch can: www.amazon.com...
tool kit: www.lowes.com/...
Makita ratchet: www.amazon.com...
#1zz #oilburner #corollalovers #catchcan
Music:
Shadowing by Corbyn Kites
Eternal Garden by Dan Henig
Sunshine Samba by Chris Haugen
Disclaimer:
If you choose to imitate, duplicate or copy anything you may have observed in these videos, you do so at your own risk. The creator of this content does not take any responsibility for any action taken as a result of the information or advice on this UA-cam channel (or other platforms) and shall not have any liability in respect of any injury or damage that may result.
Entire oil burning playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj.html
I think your motor is beyond help and just needs to be rebuilt you've already blew all kinds of money on products and they all failed only thing you didn't and won't try is engine restore I don't understand why your trying everything else if restore can't help it then it just needs to be rebuilt its beyond the help of any kind of oil treatment can offer or do
@@robbieturnbull4253 The B12 Chemtool and Seafoam is not expensive, so they were worth a try, but I agree with you that his engine probably needs to be bored .30 over and new pistons and rings installed, I myself have used Total Seal gap less rings in my Ford 302 motor and my 2110 CC stroked 1968 VW beetle engine I built.
@@robbieturnbull4253 it's an experiment to see if any of these products will make a difference or reduce the burning, some people can't afford this and in some engines this has actually been very successful
I believe engine restore will only mask the problem@@robbieturnbull4253
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY DAVE (caps for emphasis, not screaming ), I can't believe you haven't installed a fumoto valve on this car yet, makes draining the oil soooo easy compared to removing and replacing the bolt every time. Quality product, I've had mine for more thatn 10 years, zero issues.
Really outstanding series. No question, you’ve diligently given all of the chemical options a fair shot. Thanks for doing this!
Thank you :-)
You should do an oil analysis.
It would tell you if there is fuel in the oil... which would tell you if the rings were allowing fuel to bypass the rings... which is a simple way of telling if they're stuck.
Oil analysis would also tell you where wear is occurring... and that might also help identify where the problem is occurring.
🙂
P.S. Ethanol in the fuel oxidises and polymerises to forms a sludge that is really hard to remove (won't dissolve in normal solvents)... and may be the main reason why the rings get stuck.
I got 2002 corolla that burns quart every 300miles. But my car has 260k on it. Watched the series was hoping you had luck with some of these solutions. I have tried a few with no luck.
As someone mentioned in an earlier video, you can access the pistons without pulling the engine.
Apparently you pull the head, and drop the pan.
Unbolt the piston rods from below and top, and simply push them from the pan out the top of the head.
Check replace rings as necessary, and re-drill the piston oil passages as per Toyotas later revision.
With the compression tests you've done, the pistons seems fine.
Not sure why you haven't done a simple leak-down test.
Don't think the bores are ovaled per comp. test results, so looks like a simple weekend project.
Thanks, and I did a leak-down test a ways back :-)
Just went through this procedure on my 2009 Pontiac Vibe with a 2AZ-FE toyota engine, currently burning from top to bottom dot in 425 miles. After the 24 hour procedure, I drained the pan 80-90% and added some sacrificial cheap oil before running high RPMs on the highway for 20-30 minutes. Then another drain and added high quality Motul oil.
Not sure if it's affected my oil burning yet, but the car definitely feels different. Very quiet, smoother idle, and a bit more low-end pep. The car was poorly maintained before I got it, so I'm hoping the improvements are significant. I'll comment back in after I burn to the bottom marker on the oil again.
Thanks for the comment, and yes, please do let us know how it goes!
hey I know this is an old video, but I think your valve seal and piston ring is pretty much cooked, but you might wanna try to soak your piston first then red line the car to see if you can remove some deposit on the valve, driving on constant 75mph doesn't really help you need to redline, I always do this my exhaust valve is pretty much clear from deposit, so before you decide to do a full engine rebuild might want to try this first it might help.
I’m still thinking of valves job would be a part of it. But also, you might try range hotter on your spark plugs to help burn off the oil to help clean it up a little bit that might help. Also looking at your plugs they could use a little help they’re pretty dirty and you’re putting them right back in After pulling them out you’re not cleaning them you’re just putting them back in from what I see they’re pretty fed out dirty they could use a good cleaning or one brand new set of plugs one range hotter to help cope with burning off that oil that you’re sucking into that engine my opinion. Try that first before doing a valve job or anything else change your spark plugs. Good job on killing the mosquitoes in the neighborhood with all that smoke. Love it.
I really liked how you had 2daves position ramps😂
I think it was the combination of all those previous cleaners, not just the one that apparently did it.
You should put the new oil filter after the drainage of old oil; and fill it with new oil, to avoid air in the system. Then pour the new oil in the engine.
Entropy: The Nature of the Universe Is Fractally Mathematical, so the Universe goes from simple to complex; from a very small human perspective looks Entropy, no such thing, is a level of higher order, our minds find too complex and see only complexity and not the higher order.
The restoration: Wasn't a bust, it worked fine for a few hours, but the exess particulates clogged the piston holes again, and oil went to the piston to be burned, again; hence it needs more cleaning
🤔
Ive had very good luck moving to liquid moly 10w60. In all cars that have burned oil due to rings this has clewred up the issue alot. 99% of full synthetics are not true synthetics. Liquid moly 10w60 is one of only a handfull of true synthetics on the market. Ture synthetics have rice shaped molicules unlike other oils that have round unsimular sized molecules. The rice shaped molecules seal whats left of the ring and cuts consumtion by alot. .
Why just reregister the car as a diesel? 🤔
BTW - as a 2003 Toyota Corolla owner with a 1ZZ-FE engine, I've watched your videos since early on.
I've always thought this is the piston oil control rings, as that has plagued modern engines with short pistons and oil control rings too close to the compression rings. 🤓
HAHAHA 😂😂😂 may be fatal if swallowed or enters air way ..anyways, after you already got a nice big wiff of those fumes
Well, it was interesting. I was pullin for ya, but.... Oddly, I just inherited my mom's 2016 Carolla. 45k on the ticker. It's not old enough and nothing is wrong with it so I probably won't keep it. I'd just be bored by it.
I literally laughed out loud.
Looks like the oil stayed a lot cleaner for longer. As far as I can tell BG is good for removing all that old oil varnish. You can actually kind of see this in the shots of the oil filter housings. So from what I have seen from others, yes, BG will clean up everything and free up sticky rings and fix oil consumption issues by restoring ring tension provided there is no mechanical wear. In this case, though, I think this into the mechanical issue realm that no chemical is going to correct.
Looks like a lot of people agree with you! Thanks for the comment!
I work for BG and am currently doing this service as we speak!
@@1TIMEF1lmannnn how come it’s so difficult to get this stuff in the UK !!!!??
3 years is along time Dave. I sat and binged watched your oil burning Corolla series. I enjoy it very much. And I'm looking for results as my car is burning oil also. Looking forward to the next video. Keep up the good work!! 🤘
Thanks Clint! Much appreciated :-)
Honestly the result is cylinder head job, replace worn valves, valve seats and stem seals and off course the piston rings, most important the oil rings.
Loved the series Dave was a pleasure to watch and see the trips in between, makes me want to go back to the states
Guess I got lucky. I got the answer first time.
How do you know that the cylinders are still. within specs? You dont just replace piston rings, you change bearings as well and you check the block and the shape of cylinders. It might need liners also. Thats not a cylinder head job, it is engine rebuild. You dont have a clue.@@aloisdecroon6096
I always use marvel mystery oil in oil and fuel to keep rings lose and free
I'd do the valve seals first. Easier because it's the top-end. You definitely have oil coming down the stems from the look of it. You can keep the valves at the top by pressurizing the cylinders with a leak-down tester using air pressure to hold the valves in place while you change the seals.
That's already been done like three times
Been done
its the rings, the oil is litterly getting blown into the intake, and has uneven compression. he should remove the valves and atleast lap the seats and get all the build up off. the rings, and the ring groves will both be worn.
This has nothing to do with valves, this is from excessive crankcase pressure
@@spartanpatriot3163 Whatever it's over 20 year old no magic in a can is going to fix a mechanical problem whatever it is
This series will be super helpful for anyone dealing with this oil burning issue. Thanks a lot for creating it!
Thank YOU for watching!!
A co-worker of mine got one of these for free a year and a half ago for doing work for one of his customers. His was at the point where it would burn A quart of oil every 300 mi. He had tried chemical repairs for 3 years, but it seemed like every year it would have to come in for another dose.
He pulled the motor and we rebuilt the engine in about 10 hours over the course of a week. Of the 16 oil return holes, 14. Were plugged when we initially pulled the pistons, 11 were still plugged after 2 hours in the parts washer, and four of them were so stuffed full of hard carbon, that we ended up having to drill them out.
The fix, as noted in the forums, is to either drill the oil return holes to the next size up, or by adding two additional return holes in between both existing oil return holes on both sides.
We ended up doing both. The two competing theories are that by oversizing the return holes, they will transfer less heat into the oil as it gets scraped back down into the pan, reducing the chance that it can coke up and plug the holes again. And that the additional oil holes were a factory fix in the updated Pistons for the 1zz/2zz engines.
Either way, the return holes were gross and it honestly took more time than it ever. Should have to get those pistons clean, although there was no reason to replace them. The Molly coating on the piston skirt did wear but it hadn't worn away completely.
We ended up rebuilding the motor in the most sloppy mechanic way possible. Everything was cleaned and reused. The bores were honed out, and although the deck and head were checked for trueness and were in spec, we never sent them out for machining.
It got the cheapest rebuild kit on RockAuto, and got fresh bearings and a timing set and water pump.
Since then he is driven it about 10,000 mi. The only times he's added oil, have been to fill it up after an oil change. Total consumption between oil changes was 2/10 of a quart, and some of that could be the motor breaking in again.
(He did end up having an external coolant leak from the head gasket, but I blame that on the cheap head gasket more than anything else. Doing it again. That's the only thing either of us would change)
Good info. Love this comment!
Hi David,i can tell you from my experience with my 94 Honda civic with 530,000 miles original motor.i bought it new.You NEED to remove the pistons and rings,buy a new set of stocks rings, brand won't matter,hone a crosshatch pattern with a flex hone in the CLYS.and NUMBER 1 use a .093 dia drill BY HAND in a pin vise and ream out the OIL DRAIN BACK HOLES.My car used to burn 1 qt every 100 miles and that was 4 yrs and 40,000 miles ago.now it USES 1/4 CUP every 3,000 miles.my pistons have 6 drain-back holes every single one was clogged solid making it an oil pump,and the other benefit it passes smog with 1/10 of ALLOWED gases again.
Thnaks for the advice Roberto!
I think your advice is the only way to go, unless some genius works out a way to clean the holes while the pistons are still in the engine........I believe someone will find a way@@FamilyFriendlyDIY
Did you ever try a Berryman piston soak from above?
@@JonnyAbs-0
He did with limited success. He made a video about it too.
Called it. Knew that the BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner wouldnot do anything of note. I hoped it would but knew it would not. Now if the engine had been full of sludge the BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner would have been the perfect fit. The engine is too far gone all of the other cleaners that have come before did all that could be done via insitu cleaning. I have said this since before you replaced your valve stem seals that you needed to check those valve guides as well!
Yea it works wonderfully. But with already applying all the cleaning agents that have already been tried. There is not much left for BG Dynamic to clean out.
I have an old Honda crv that had the exact issues as your Corolla to include the 420 check engine light. Car ran great, just a lot of oil consumption. I tried all the same snake oil treatments and fixes as you and I ended up spending a weekend rebuilding the engine 2 weeks ago in my driveway. After pulling the pistons, the compression rings were all fine, the ring lands on all the oil rings were just packed with carbon to the point i had to let the pistons soak in chem-dip for an hour to be able to remove the oil rings but I was able to do the whole rebuild for $350, no more oil burning and the p420 check engine light also went away. Good luck, hopefully whatever u have planned next saves you a rebuild.
That's awesome, Antwain! and if it comes to that (which I think it will) I hope mine goes as easy :-)
What do you think caused it?
I tried the Chemtool B12 trick and it worked. 2011 Hyundai Sonata, 188,000 miles, was burning a quart every 500 miles. Now, it has been 3000 miles since that treatment, and the oil dipstick is still reading 3/4. I was truly amazed. Thanks for the idea Dave!!!
Thanks for another sucess story Michael!
@michaelcochran7392 Did you apply to crankcase and fuel or just fuel?
You'll have to watch the original video with B12 to see how its done@maxe.1204
Did you let the berrymans soak cold or warm
@@colebarnes3938Any idea?
This is the best oil change channel on youtube ;)
😂
If you plan on redoing the rings I suggest having the Car Care Nut do the work. Be a cool collab vid
I'd love that, just don't know if he has time for a peon like me. :-/
AMD won't touch this car he doesn't believe in boring out engines for oversized pistons he simply orders a short block and reseals the head
Only way to clean exhaust valves of excessive carbon is the old Italian Tuneup. Run HARD. Like race track hard. Gets them hot enough to burn the carbon out. Short of disassembly hats the only way, no chemical will help you there.
I've had moderate success using Chemtrol B-12 on a 2015 Kia Forte that was burning a quart of oil every 300 miles. I did an overnight soak down in each cylinder for 24 hours. I then added more B-12 to one cylinder at a time. I used a compression tester adapter after adding more B-12, as each cylinder had drained down. Then after adding more Chemtrol, I brought each piston up by baring the crank over with a breaker bar, until the valves closed, using compressed air to feel the closed valves. This forced the B-12 down past the rings. After doing all four cylinders, I then spun the engine to remove any additional B-12 and drained the oil, replacing it with new oil. I got the idea to use compressed air in the cylinders after reading the Hyundai Kia TSB on oil consumption. The engine now consumes about a quart of oil every 1,000 miles, still not great, but a lot better.
Dave try some of this oil ,Valvoline Restore & Protect is the first and only motor oil that prevents future deposit formation and restores pistons to factory clean by removing up to 100% of engine-killing deposits.
Internally, the engine is clean now after this treatment.
I do agree with you though in that Valvoline Restore & Protect would have done the best job compared to everything he's tried up until this video.
I recently began using it about 4 months ago on my g/f's RAV4 which had some small sludge deposits visible from the oil fill cap opening. Cleaned it all out in just 1 oil interval. We are sticking to using it on her RAV4 moving forward.
This oil is simply on another level.
What he needs are new piston rings and the walls need to be machined all over again.
Next time pull out pistons and drill out oil ring holes a little bigger.
Valvoline restore and protect
See the motor oil geek video
Check out Hyundai's newest combustion chamber cleaning chemical and procedure. It works EXTREMELY well.
Dave, my Dad used to say "we have gathered enough information to prescribe a prognosis without getting out of the vehicle, so lets eliminate the items that can't be the problem and list the ones that we have knowledge of that might be." So It seems to me that you have already proven your oil rings are at fault. With all the oil additives you've used I don't see how there could be any appreciative amount of carbon clogging the return route thru the piston. Berryman's B12 really reduced your consumption. I'd say it had the magic ingredient in it. None of the rest of them have helped reduce pumping and may have made it slightly worse *(I'd suspect due to the viscosity) So, it seems like the only alternative to actually pulling the pistons to do a visual would be to go back to Berryman's B12 Chemtool and go nuclear with it. It's not my car, so don't do what I'd do, but if it was mine, I'd fill it up with B12 and nothing else. Then assign the vehicle to extremely light duty so it can get some honest heat cycles on it with very light loads, loads of no more than a 25 mph flat ground equivalent and keep rpm below 2,000 but above 1,500. I don't know how much lubrication quality B12 can afford pistons, rings, bearings and valve train, so I'd want to stay way beneath about 1/100 of the engines rated output. Only want to run the B12 thru it hot and cold several times for a period each time then try one last time with factory recommended engine oil. You've been all over this thing, so that is what I would've told my Dad. ben/ michigan
I used the combination of STP Multi-purpose Treatment, Seafoam High Mileage, and Berryman B-12 Chemtool fuel injector cleaner, and it fixed the oil consumption problem and misfire on my 2010 Toyota Venza. I followed the instructions from this video: ua-cam.com/video/V5e3xQeXCLo/v-deo.html
So this is my second video I've seen on this oil clean .... ( a guy with a red dart ..... with sludge ) and he did it with regular oil change level with the cleaner ) and he did good but on the first video he didn't remove valve covers and i was like .....WTF !!!
BUTTTTTTTTTTTT.......
I saw the second video and he took the valve cover off .....AND it was like .....amazing how clean it was..
I would use this product...
But i think on this video made a difference
pls rebuild the motor
Try Castrol GTX 20W-50, as it will not burn away as fast. If you're keeping this car, I'd recommend a full service on the head along with new pistons and bearings. If the bores are close to stock and still round, a simple hone and set of standard rings, gapped, of course.
That might be way too thick
Dude ever heard of winters?
I believe the chemical experiments are incomplete without using at least GM Top Engine Cleaner 10-3015. I believe it is stronger than berrymans and should be used with a respirator mask (voc.) There are other pro cleaners (kreen, valvoline), but not using the GM is a lost opportunity for the diy. Again, a better $300 finale would have been to follow the Kia/Hyundai TSB. I'm concerned not all diyers can remove just the cylinder head for a mechanical repair and may require a full engine removal or a lift, at worse.
Also, I was recently reminded (schrodingers box channel) that compression testers can produce false negatives. They are only useful for positive results (compression loss.) With negative results I believe you need at least a vacuum gauge or running compression test (diy) to eliminate any additional valve related issues (cam/rockers/etc.) The pro way to check it is to use a pico scope (scanner danner) with a pressure transducer. In theory, the chemicals could have worked, but only for cylinder 2 because it wasn't under some additional mechanical failure.
In short, I think you should follow up on all check engine codes and have as much hard evidence as possible before an engine tear down.
I saw the new Valvoline oil Restore and Protect, they claim to clean the pistons and pistons rings. I will try them in my car, which has almost 250,000 miles and burns oil.
Valvoline R&P supposed to work after 4 OCI so wil lbe a long haul. I bought two jugs for my cars.
I've been waiting for this video for quite a long time :) All the best in 2024.
BTW
I will get political here - delete it, if you wish
TRUMP 2024
FJB
You should try Valvoline Protect and Restore motor oil, they claim it cleans rings in 4 oil changes. No additives, just motor oil.
One product that has help many people on newer 1.6 VVTI engines that have oil consumption issues is Xado Verylube Anticarbon. But to the point you are now, I doubt it would have helped. Most people have great success with it when using it right after the oil burning starts. And the issue there is low tension piston rings gumming up with carbon deposits, rather than only the oil drainback holes. In any case, if you end up removing the heads of the engine, I would like to see the state of the pistons rings.
I noticed the area where the oil filter mounts was significantly cleaner after the dynamic cleaner!
I think I would have only run conventional oil in that car I noticed you only used synthetic oil sometimes synthetic oil in a older high mileage car can be to much of a good thing
I think you get wrong size of oil seal valve the oil came from the top not from piston ring
That paper cup is genius!
I think I remember having a Geo prism which is the same car which had a test done and it turned out it was the valve stem seals leaking
The introduction of water into the intake tract while the engine is at high idle will clean the piston tops and the combustion chambers but I don't think it will bust thru all that solidified compacted oil in the oil ring lands.
I think your videos are better described as a "scientific approach 101 for resolving engine oil consumption".
It progressively covers all possible fictitious solutions then finally arrives at the proper solution.
Your "Documentary" series has been very educational and equally entertaining.
Thanks for the kind comment!
I haven't seen it yet but I am so excited. It feels like a series finally to a great show lol!
:-)
Season Finale indeed 😂
I wonder if another B12 Chemtool treatment would have improved it further since it worked so well the first time.
Newsflash:
All of them snake oils are pretty much the same. They just need somebody willing to “believe”.
Since u have done ao much over the years , mightas well pull the pistons and look at them
Yet another great video Dave. Was really hoping to see a better result from that. You sure have tried about everything and the B12 did the best by far. UMMMMMM makes me wonder if just another dose of the B12 soak may free up those holes? Love it!
Thank you Thomas! I wonder the same thing .... but .....
Please Dave one more! 🫥
@ DIY DAVE try this product next. I just did this on a 2004 Celica that had the oil burning issue of the 1zzfe. I've tried many products and this one worked for me. Hopefully it does for you too. It's called Rislone ring seal. Please make the video. So far I'm a few days in and no more blue smoke.
Give Valvoline Restore & Protect a try. Based on what The Motor Oil Geek video showed, it looks like a promising product. I'll be trying it out on my '06 Mustang GT with 345k to see if it will reduce oil consumption. I've already replaced the stem seals. Compression is still good. Hope just stuck rings. Also, based on his video on oil additive products, its no surprise that none of them had any discernible improvements. I've certainly had no luck with them.
ua-cam.com/video/kyyZDghgdCI/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/CAGT5inQScE/v-deo.html
I just bought two 5 qt jugs
A new short block is the only thing that will work. The scoring on the cylinder wall is what is causing the oil usage.
During the b12 experiment and you scoped it, it really looked like the walls were super shiny. It could be that they had some residual oil or the cylinder walls are glazed over. Pull the pistons, re-hone it, and re-ring it. That's what I would do.
And a valve job.
Agreed except for a valve job. 1zz valve job needs skill. Rings and hone not so much
I was wondering if you retried the B-12 Chemtool to see if the improvement was a fluke or if it comes back as good as the first test. I also thought, if you could apply pressure to the cylinders through the plug holes while soaking with the Chemtool, could it force the liquid into the oil return holes and push the gunk out? You shouldn't need a ton of pressure to push the liquid down the cylinder sides into the ring grooves. Might be able to use an air compressor blower tool with a long nozzle with a cork pushed down into the plug hole. Just a thought.
I did a couple of B12 treatments. I do think it worked, not just from my results, but from a lot of anecdotal evidence from others who tried it before and after me. Seems like more people have has success from B12 than anything else we've tried. ... Pressurising is a good idea. The Seafoam site recomments just putting the plugs back in and turning the cylinders to let compression force the liquid through the rings.
Been waiting months for this…well done great video once again Dave Sir
Thanks Stephen!!
That was some brutal smoke! And dark smoke, not 'fluffy white' Seafoam smoke. I'd have half a mind to almost request a refund, that didn't seem great at all.
The solution to the oil consumption... install a oil separator catch can, draining the capture oil through the dipstick tube back to the crankcase. Try thicker oil as 10W40 or 10W50. Also make a test without the catalytic converter, to check potential back pressure influence.
Whats codes were the check engine throwing?
Jw
Dont foget to add EPR to the last oil change. Maybe check compression on the pistons now that the bg cleaner has been done, add the EPR, then in 1k miles check compression again?
you still havent tried berrymans chem dip, some call it b-9 chem dip, ill put a link below. If you want to see how powerful it is, get a old used intake valve covered in carbon and see first hand. If you decide its worth a try i would put it in each cylinder on the compression stroke, since you have a manual leave it in gear and physically push the car back and forth to move that piston up and down creating pressure and vacuum in the cylinder, working the chem dip into the rings. I'd let it soak in each cylinder for an hour or so and rock it every 10 min or so. Then i would flush each cylinder out with b-12 or some solvant, dont let the chem dip evoporate or it will leave a sticky residue. You could also achieve the same thing and possibly better results if you put the cylinder on the compression stroke about half way up or better, compleatly fill the cylinder and hydraulicing it by putting the spark plug back in, then if you can get to the crank bolt put a breaker bar on it and apply constant pressure back and forth to force the chemdip into the rings. You wont be strong enout to damage any components hydraulicing it this way unless you get really crazy and even then i doubt you could damage anything. This is basically "mechanically" removing the carbon as you suggested at the end of your video. Good luck and I would love to see you try this before a rebuild!
www.berrymanproducts.com/products/eco-friendly-products/berryman-chem-dip-carburetor-and-parts-cleaner/
🤔 ... good idea, but I think I've committed to using tools now :-)
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I think we would forgive you, to try one last thing (or a couple)... especially if it was in the same family as your best result so far (Berryman's)... but I also want to see you try something that could help the bore scoring..! Engine restore, ceratec, etc.. :) thanks for all the hard work so far
Great Job Dave, as per Usual!👍
The Saga Continues!
Thanks for Your Hard work and continued Dedication in the quest to reduce the oil consumption of your car!
Thanks also to your Family for their support of you in your quest! 🥰
We appreciate them too!
Looking forward to the next phase and wishing you (and us) a successful resolution and Low cost Fix, to a Vexing problem! 😁
Happy New Year!
Mike in San Diego. 🌞🎸🚀🖖
Thanks Mike! Happy New Year to you and yours! :-)
Hydro-lock the engine with diesel, basically fill the engine engine to the top with diesel and let it soak for a few days, drain and retest. At least this give the oil rings the ability to stay submerged vs relying on oil throw
Good chance rings / cylinders are too worn after all that experimentation. I've seen BG fix oil consumption on those zz engines when caught soon. It's been an interesting series for sure. 👍
Thank you!! I hope there's life in the cylinders at least.
She needs a hone / rings and valve seals. Piston drain back holes cleaned out by hand and inspected.
I'm sure you could tackle this job yourself and I'm interested at how clean the pistons sides are at this point!
@@Oofsmagerooyeah 1zz is pretty easy to do a light rebuild on. Don't even need to remove the engine or timing cover. Noob with basic torque wrenching skills can do it.
Just takes a long time
@@FamilyFriendlyDIYas long a they don't need to be bored, a hone and rings will get it back 200+ compression dry with no burn.
Great idea. Let's clean those oil holes. 👍
I would try some thicker oil.
Some very nice video from Valvoline Restore and Protect oil to remove deposits including what looked like the oil ring drain holes. The deposit removal from the piston looked good, and a product to do what should be helpful to the oil consumption from a major oil company, Thoughts?
I hadn't heard of that, but just looked it up. Interesting🤔
I'm very interested in seeing this series play out, I don't know what I'll do when you're finished and have stopped the oil consumption or at least have it well under control, something less than a quart between regular changes
You need a bigger funnel
I really enjoy this series. Have you given any thought to a water injection system? The water would need to be injected downstream of the throttle body / any electronics. It tends to steam clean the chambers and pistons.
Thought about it, but I think that ship has sailed :-)
"DO PREMIUM QUALITY WORK!" Gotta respect you for your tenacity! BTW, the color of the oil doesn't mean much; the time it's been in the engine does. Just check out Royal Purple motor oil, and see how dark it is unused. I own 2012 KIA Sorento; it has 102,500+ miles on it. It was moderately burning oil, so I poured 3 bottles of Berryman's B-12 Chemtool AND IT TOTALLY STOPPED BURNING OIL!!!
How long did you run it with the B12?
I have a 2016 rio. Where did you pour it? Did you also do a soak?
Have you done a compression check or better a cylinder leakdown test?…. With how caked those valves are, I don’t think they are fully sealing the chamber to build compression.
Yep. Did those in a previous video.
The problem with a lot of toyota engines is when the oil control rings gum up and get stuck they start to score the cylinder walls and any chance of a chemical cleaning like this has of really helping a whole lot is usually gone. The damage is usually mechanical at this point and woupd need a rebuild or replacement of the engine.
For that much money the bottle should have an indicator.
Colour of your radiator mean it will need replacing soon , as the hose connector has turned white and stress cracks , you might want to check that .
Wow. How many gallons of oil did this engine go through in the past 3 years? Did it in the beginning run out of oil before it ran out of fuel?
I’ve learned to do the smoky stuff after dark.
Can't Wait to see the piston rings when you take apart the engine to see if you can clean /fix it
Nice, didn't realize you were in SC; I'm in Fayetteville, NC ( I travel in your area a lot for work and my partner lives in Spartanburg) . Have you ever considered doing a meet and greet for your viewers near by maybe at Buc-ee's in Florence, SC?
James
Thanks :-) not sure I'm ready for a meet and greet 😨 ... I'm a total introvert (beleive it or not). ... We'll see. Buc-ee's would be an awesome spot though!!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I totally understand ( yes it would be a great spot!!)
I had to replace the motor in my KIA for this same issue which developed a bad valve train ticking.
Now, my project Mazda 6 has oil consumption, I believe due to lack on maintenance and dreaded pre-cat failure at bank 1.
Wish me luck on trying to slow down oil consumption of this 3.0 duratec ( known leakers) .
Can't wait to see the next vid :)
@@gsxellence all the best to you!
Save the pog inside the cans from BG. The local dealer will cash them out for credit on new purchases.
No washer on that drain plug? Naughty naughty.
Stop smelling chemicals. Seriously. No additive will repair worn out parts. They only maintain. If you can find standard rings, buy them instead of the low tension OEM style.
These are gold , DIY Dave. pure gold.
Thank you! 😊
17:56 I think your biggest issue is leaking valve stem seals. Those cylinders look pretty decent for a vehicle of that mileage. I remember your first couple of videos, you seem to be on top of maintenance, so sticky rings probably not as likely.
Valve stem seals however, are a rubber seal with a lifespan unfortunately. Might just be time. Only way to explain the oil in those ports.
I was one of the ones that recommended you the BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner. As a professional mechanic, I have brought back a lot of cars from neglect, but mechanical and seal failure can only be fixed one way.
Many moons ago I had a Toyota Corolla that had huge oil consumption issue and valves that looked like yours. It had just over 170,000km on it. I added 1L of diesel to 3L of engine oil and drove it in 3rd gear (stick shift) keeping rpm around 6000 for just over 200km. Drained the oil and it was dirtier than a 64 year old French woman working on the Amsterdam red light district. Checked the valves and 99% of the carbon was GONE. It still used a bit of oil, much less and even less after replacing the valve stem seals. You should try driving the crap out of it. Good luck
My bet is one of the intake valve stem seals lifted and is riding on the valve.
Seal off the exhaust and hook a shop vac to the intake let it sit under vacuum for 5mins stop the vacuum then by hand without plugs in the engine crank it over 4 times and look in the cylinders the cylinder with a bunch of oil pooled is the guilty party.
Crank the engine over so the guilty cylinder is at TDC on compression stroke and remove the intake cam.
Use an air compressor with about 30-40psi with a leak down tester on that cylinder to keep the valve from dropping. Use a hook style spring compressor to remove keepers and springs for the cylinder and replace seals. Reverse all this and start it up.
The change in varnish where the oil filter mount was pretty drastic.
Honestly a complete reman head with cams can be found for around 500$.
I'd swap the head and do a tare down video
We’re all here trying to save our scions lol😂 follow me as I try everything to fix my scion XB rs5.0 😂 not gonna lie at all I have a Subaru wrx a run for its money with the scion XB manual. Great engines.
I think youre getting it
I can't wait to see those new total seal piston rings go on with a 3 angle valve job with new valve seals
I always watch this series, they are so interesting and i usually like a faster paced video, but it’s perfect for killing time at work! haha. I love it and you have an awesome channel, thanks for the hours of entertainment and experiments!
Your kind comment is much appreciated! :-)
This has been a great series! Hope you haven't sacrificed your Corolla in the process. I have an '03 Honda Accord 2.4ltr. with 150k miles. Same exact issues, and the oil consumption was getting worse, every 5-600 miles. I knew my catalytic converter was getting bad so I thought I would try a new one to see if that might help. So my process was this: while I had no cat connected I did the spray type Sea Foam treatment into the intake, then I did your piston soak with Berryman's, again with the cat disconnected. Smoked like crazy and was obviously loud. Then I put the new cat on with new o2 sensors and changed the oil going from 5w-20 to 5w-30 (Castrol GTX syn blend). Got it to 1,100 miles before having to add a quart. It's at another 700 miles with just about a 1/4 down. So definite improvement thus far. So my question is, maybe your catalytic converter is somewhat clogged? I think these engines are vulnerable to back pressure and this could be part of your problem. I think the state you live in allows non-CARB compliant converters so this might be a worthwhile inexpensive experiment to try.
We scoped the cat in a previous video, Samuel. I think it already has an aftermarket on it, and it sounds pretty free flowing.
What you've overlooked about entropy and DNA is mutation and mutation rates, combined with sexual reproduction. I think the word "perfect" here is a misnomer. The correct nomenclature would be: more simple -------> more complicated. As in less ordered (simple) than before.
Great video!
IMHO, I think I would have a look at the valve stem seals before I condemn the piston rings. Seems like a lot of oil on the valve stems and you would be surprised how much this can amount to...
You haven't tried the only thing that could fix the oil burning. Engine Restore with CSL in the silver can. It has copper, silver, and lead that melt into the damaged cylinder walls. It sounds ridiculous, but I've seen it work every single time on failing engines.
Interesting series Dave. Snake oil will not long term fix a modern engine wear. With low tension rings and poor maintenance from the start. It's a loosing battle wear is wear. On old engines Restore and Engine Honey was amazing with excellent results. Today with DFI, VVT and thin oil its playing with fire. BTW your valve seats don't look good.
Honestly this is a really cool series. I truly have enjoyed watching you show all these methods. One thing I will say though, is as a professional tech I didn’t believe any of them would create an appreciable change in the grand scheme. Just based on the Toyota engines I’ve seen consuming tons of oil, there is no substitute for mechanical repairs. If it was my personal vehicle I’d remove the engine and do a complete tear down and inspection. Replace all Seals and gaskets, probably put new pistons and rings in (if the cylinders were concentric and in spec) and call it a day. It’s your call to continue trying but I hope you eventually go all the way.
Recommendation:
I used on a totally worn VW Beetle engine an oil additive named NULON and for worn engines use the GREEN can, 1 is enough.
For decent engines use the BLUE, and new engines use the GOLD.
It really covers the cylinders with a thick layer of PTFE.
My VW behaved like knew and no more oil burning for a long time.
The additive was available imported from Europe (Belgium).
I was advised to use B&G to clean the carbon buildup on my 2010 Nissan 4.0. It didn't burn oil prior to the B&G. However after the process my engine burned oil so much that I would have to check it every 50 miles. This lasted for about 400 miles when the bottom end started knocking at low rpm. I've never taken a vehicle to a mechanic except for this one time. $300 Snake Oil