Motor Oil & Fuel Additives: Just a WASTE of MONEY?
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- Опубліковано 16 жов 2024
- Additives, some people swear by them. Others swear at them, so who's right? Are they just a waste of money? As a Certified Lubrication Specialist, I reveal the TRUTH about both Fuel and Motor Oil additives via laboratory testing and real world used oil analysis examples.
NOTICE: The Sea Foam portion of the video has been removed.
For more about used oil analysis, check out www.speediagno...
For the full seminar on additives, check out this recording:
• The Good, Bad and Ugly...
For a more in-depth discussion on oil change intervals, check out this video: • Sitting Down With Lake...
To learn more about how to prevent LPSI, check out this video:
• How To Prevent LSPI Fr...
Here are the links to the products I used to do the tests.
Glass Beaker: amzn.to/3O3LYMJ
Frother: amzn.to/4bcsL5B
To learn more about injector deposits and fuel detergents, check out this video: • Are You Accidentally S...
For more about my Dad, check out this great video from @Stapleton42 • Lake Speed Shows Us Hi...
Who is the @themotoroilgeek ? I'm a Society of Tribologists and Lubrication Engineers Certified Lubrication Specialist and Oil Monitoring Analyst (I've maintained both of those for over a decade). I also worked for Joe Gibbs Racing for 12 years as their lubricant specialist. During that time, we worked with Wix Filters (one of our sponsors) to test and develop filters for our race engines. We also worked with Lubrizol and Chevron-Phillips Chemical to test and develop oils for our race cars. Following that, I was the head of R&D for Driven Racing Oil. During that time, I formulated and tested over 50 products. We also worked with Cummins, Comp Cams, Oak Ridge National Labs and General Motors on various R&D products. Those efforts are recorded in peer reviewed white papers published by SAE International and ACS Sustainable Chemistry journals. I also own and operate SPEEDiagnostix, which provides used oil analysis.
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases That just means that I may earn a small commission, at no cost to you, if you choose to purchase that product from Amazon.com. It is a way to help support the work of The Motor Oil Geek.
#motoroil #syntheticoil #oilchange #additives
WOW! I'm blown away by the response to this video. Thanks to everyone who has watched and commented. Whether you agree or disagree with me, I appreciate you taking the time to watch the video and for caring enough to share your thoughts. There is no way I can respond to all these comments, so please take this as my thank you to you!
You have opened pandoras box :) don't stop now haha.
Thank you for all the information you've kept me from putting Seafoam in my oil crankcase, as the bottle says it's completely safe.... At this point, I don't plan on using it as a fuel additive anymore to clean my injectors.
Please review professional products offered at dealers like BG
@@BluRibbonReviews smart move!
Lake jr please review zmax I use it to remove carbon from rings and valves it feels like my engine has more compression ,power
Where has my life gone. Here I'm sitting watching a over 20 minute video about oil additives and enjoying it
Here is how to increase your lifespan, set speed to 1.75x or 2x and skip to the most replayed part to get to the conclusion.
You’re being financially responsible and learning about how to possibly extend your engine life.
we're car guys, we live on this stuff lol
This guy really knows his stuff!!!!! It's that simple!!! PERIOD Kudos for making this video!
Me too and i'm very happy about it
From my understanding, Seafoam is meant to be added 100-300 miles BEFORE an oil change. It is meant to help break down deposits so they are removed when changing your oil. It is not meant to be added with fresh new oil as an additive.
Exactly. It's understandable that adding seafoam to fresh oil will have an effect on it but that's not it's intended use. The way I understand Seafoam to be used is that it's intended to act as a solvent and remove sludge deposits right before an oil change
But you might as well add it just 1 car drive before an oil change - because, as LSJ showed, it evaporates at typical oil operating temp, it basically has up to the point of the oil reaching operating temp to actually do anything.
@@RyTrapp0 Since it evaporates at such a low temperature, i can't see it being of any use at all. Didn't sound like he did either.
Doesn't matter it likely doesn't even last 1 mile regardless of when you use it.
You missed the point.
If Seafoam degrades NEW oil this much, imagine how it degrades USED oil.
Grabing all that wear for 300 miles before an oil change is questionable.
If you're using good oil there shouldn't be any crapp in your engine anyway.
THINK ABOUT IT.
******
Berryman B12 is much much better for unsticking rings and cleaning injectors at 1/2 the price.... As if that matters.
"As the oil life is shortened, the deposits will increase." That's specifically why I've never felt comfortable with 10K(+) mile oil changes, even with the best oil.
Agree , I don't even go half that .. dont care what the bottle say I go by what car tells me and how oil is looking and smelling and if it still had any "tak" to it still otherwise between 1 and 3k I change oil .. peace and love bro keep it rad stay safe and build on l8z
Use ACEA oils, they have a much better additive package.
Oil analysis is the only way I trust past 5k. I've seen diesel engines with bypass filtration make it 15k on a change, with full-flow filter changes at 3k and bypass at 5k. I've heard of them going longer. Thing to remember there is that removing the fine contamination slows the other degradation, as well as every filter change you are replacing 1-4 quarts of engine oil, depending how big your filter is. So you get a small refresh of your additive package at that point, which helps stretch the life.
But sending an oil sample out every 2-3k is good practice. It isn't terribly expensive, and can tell you a whole lot about the health of your engine. You can even see if your air filter/clean air ducting is not doing it's job right.
@@typrus6377 I have a Mercedes B class diesel from 2012 and I change the oil every time the car sends me to to so. So far so good with almost 300k km on it. And if I'm honest I have no idea how many km intervals is my car recommending.
It's totally fine unless you're doing frequent shift trip or doing track days. I changed oil in my 2005 BMW 530i every 15,000 miles like the book says and I sold it to a buddy with 400,000 miles and he is still enjoying the car!
From Stockholm Sweden, i,m a old guy who really enjoy looking at this sort of videos when you actually learn something, i tip my hat to all of you vloggers out there who put you time and effort to teach and show us how it,s done, Great job👏✌
Oil has definitely changed a lot over the years. I remember back in the mid 80's when you pulled the valve covers off an engine with over 80,000 miles you had to use a spoon to scoop all the hardened crud out of the rockers. Now, I've worked on engines with way over 100,000 miles on them and they still look clean. Shows the big improvement in the packages in the oil.
Back when o/c intervals were at 3000 miles
Yet we see cam and lifter failure in all brands now. But I suspect it's a engineering problem.
PCV improvements are a major factor in this also. Keeping the crankcase in vacuum at all times greatly extends oil life.
Oil technology back then was very basic
Popped the valve cover on my old '06 Corolla with 240k miles and it was spotless, no varnish or discoloration, let alone sludge. Maintenance in the first 140k is unknown. Maintenance by me in the latter 100k was 4k-5k mile OCIs using Pennzoil Platinum 5w30. Proof that frequent changes with a high quality oil is the best way to keep your motor clean. Oh yeah, and it still doesn't burn any measurable amount of oil between changes...
As a State government worker we were required to add a quart of Hyperlube, company was homebased here, at each oil change in our State issued vehicles. After a few years and a series of unexplained engine failures, Ford tested, found the additive and determined overtime it restricted oil passages, which caused bearing failure. No more additive or lose your warranty. Now we just use engine oil.
Exactly.
A manufacturer would never recommend any additive, only the specified, undiluted oil recommended by them.
Adding any additives would immediately void the warranty.
I’m guessing Ford told your dept to go whistle for the repairs.
Wait a minute, so you work for the criminal organization known as gov stealing money from my paycheck, taking food out of my kids mouths because your too lazy and cowardly to get a real job in the private sector? Well at least I don't have to steal from your earnings through taxation to exist. Your welcome 🙏
Are you sure it wasn't Lucas Oil Stabilizer? In my large engine motorcycle I used Lucas O.S. and it did what you mentioned. While using Hyper-Lube O.S. in its twin bike did not.
My issue was the Lucas as it drained down the engine block walls left a gummy film and stopped the Neutral switch from operating. Currently after 100,000 miles Hyper-Lube didn't.
@@fm00078 You don't need any snake oil, just regular (7-10k) oil changes
It's bc the company owner had friend or family in the government
...extortion.
This is the video we needed. FR3 gained popularity in the diesel community because Hot Shot’s tested it in a Cummins on Firepunk Diesel’s dyno. They showed that FR3 slightly increased the power. After seeing your video, it would have done that because it lowered the viscosity but it’s actually INCREASING wear. Very good stuff here that a lot of people are going to hate to hear
if you have excessive carbon deposits, increased wear can be a desirable result - briefly.
I run the fr3 with the synthetic blend penn grade diesel oil in my 1200 hp cummins that was actually built at firepunk ... im thinking about thinking about not using it anymore
Well obviously thinning out the oil is the only way to increase power/efficiency. That's one of the reasons manufacturers require the use of thinner oils like 0W-30 in modern cars
What about in the fuel?
Stiction was an issue with the 6.0 liter
I had a 3406 CAT in a 2000 Kenworth W-900L. After a little over 100,000 Miles I installed an aftermarket oil filter ( made for Dozers and off road equipment ) and started running Amsoil Products for Diesel Engines in it. I Changed both the Original CAT Filter and the Element in the aftermarket filter every 25,000 Miles and Topped back off with a Fresh Gallon of Oil. When I changed the Filters I'd send an oil sample to the lab and when I needed to do a Complete Filter and Oil Change the Lab would let me know. I was able to go, several times, between 175,000 to 180,000 Miles between Complete Oil/Filter Changes. At 1,200,000 I took the truck in to a CAT Shop. They dropped the Pan and check 2 Rod Bearings and 2 Main Bearings. Checked the Compression, etc. When I picked the truck up the CAT Mechanic told me there was Virtually No Wear in the Bearings and the Rest of the Enging was in Great Condition and that Whatever I was doing, keep doing it and bring it in when it has 2,000,000+ Miles on it!! Good Oil and Great Filters!!
What was the brand of filter you used. Cheers
Amsoil is definitely the best of best, I watched a video on it on project farm
I'm a truck driver too so this is great information!!!
the lucus zinc additive is designed for a short break in period on brand new engines from what i understand!
I also used to own and work on caterpillar industrial engines that were used for stationary equipment that ran natural gas compressors. The engines ran 24hrs/ day 365 days a year unless it was shutdown for repairs. I would take oil samples and change oil filters every 60 days at 24hr operation. I rarely had bad oil samples come back. These engines would last 7-10 years depending on load conditions. I'm sure they would be equivalent to millions of cumulative miles between rebuild.
I was always under the impression that Seafoam wasn't an additive, but a solvent/cleaner that you were supposed run only for a very short time just prior to an oil-change...
Correct
given the boiling point and water absorbtion, sounds like Seafoam is mostly alcohol.
@@ctrlaltdebug From what I can find, the functional ingredients are pale oil, naphtha, and isopropyl alcohol, basically a combination of lightweight solvents. It would probably be good at removing deposits if used to soak a cold engine
You're 100% right, the bottle even says if I recall correctly "add for 100 miles before an oil change". Also in the video, he said fuel additives are good didn't he? Guess what Seafoam does.. oh, you can put it in your fuel and it cleans your fuel system?! sayy whattt?! No way! I've saved plenty of beaters with Sea Foam and MMO. Bought an OBS gunked to non belief and was struggling to hold 5 psi oil pressure. Guess what happened after putting in some good ole Sea Foam? One FILTHY oil change and 60 psi oil pressure cold startup. Same truck also had a small leak at the rear main seal. After I changed the oil that had Sea Foam in it, I put 1 quart of MMO + 4 quarts motor oil, and now, you won't believe me.. but that rear main seal hasn't leaked since then. I wonder what he would think about the OGs who would put kerosene in the crankcase every now/then and let their car idle for 2-3 hours before changing it and never having any issues with their vehicles?
You are correct. I've been using Seafoam this way for decades. I add half a can to the oil and the other half to the gas tank about 200 miles before each oil change. Helps keep the engine and fuel system nice and clean.
I love that-"I used brand X additive and picked up 5 mpg." Well I used brand X additive and I lost 5 main bearings." LOL. I wasn't expecting that. Hilarious.
I used brand X and created the Power Puff girls.
I used brand X and got scurvy.
@@MendicantBias1 Er ah, that's black syphilis yo. Didn't you read the instruction tome?! Ee gads man, you need a doctor!
I used brand X a d my 95 dodge 12 valve will do mach 1 now
@@MendicantBias1did you drink it instead of putting it in the car? Common installation mistake
You're slowly becoming my favorite motor oil consultant, sir.
Seriously?
And who is it that's in competition with him that he's slowly gaining credibility over?
Some flunky like Project Farm? From day one I've laughed at his videos and how he thinks he's proving anything, if he or anyone watching his videos knew anything at all about conducting experiments they'd know that there's these things called "controls" that need to be put in place to eliminate the possibility of the environment around him along with other factors affecting the results, and of extreme importance, especially with tests on engine's that are run, is the fact that it takes hundreds of samples to remove variables from the equation, everyone knows about the occasional Lemon that comes off an assembly line well then how does Mr "My Labroratory Is The Shed Behind My House" know he didn't get a lemon engine when he does his "one has the oil additive and the other one doesn't" tests? He doesn't, it takes the scientifically analyzed results from hundreds of engine's from entire fleets, like taxi and delivery services and other large fleets, with periodic oil samples taken from them to get a true basis to formulate an average, and he ain't doin' that in the shed behind his house.
If the "top of their class that's why they got hired by the oil companies" chemical engineer's wanted those chemicals in their oil they'd have put them in there from day one, it's comical to believe that some flunky who couldn't get hired by the oil companies has come up with some combination of chemicals that makes their oil work better than they could, and that another flunky in his shed behind his house can prove it, absolutely comical.
@@dukecraig2402 How many racing teams engine programs have you worked for? Let's see your qualifications and certifications.
@@jblank74 He was talking about Project Farm, not Lake Speed Jr.
@@dukecraig2402 Very impressive! ;-)
@@jblank74
I don't have to prove anything to you, I'm not the one telling the public that some oil additive works or doesn't work, go ahead, second guess the chemical engineer's at the oil company because someone who makes additives pays someone to write their name on the side of a race car, you do understand that none of those cars run that nonsense in their engine's don't you? You do get that everytime some big time drag racer gets on a TV commercial talking about how great some additive is they're lying through their teeth don't you? It's snake oil crap and anyone who pours it in their engine is just a sucker that's being taken advantage of by marketing gimmicks made up by smart people to take advantage of not so smart people, like the one's that think their favorite race car actually has that crap in it's engine.
Wow, great video ! I must admit I was a huge Slick 50 user back in the day. Haven't used it in 25 years. I never had any bad things happen. But my 1983 Dodge RAM truck with the 360 V8. Had 383,000 miles on it when I sold it. No engine issues whatsoever. But I now have a 2011 Ram 5.7 hemi which has about 289,000 miles and it has no engine issues and still running strong. The '83 I used Slick 50 every other oil change and the 2011 I have never used any additives. As a mechanic since 1976 I just made up my mind that regular oil changes with a quality motor oil is perfect. Now you have provided scientific proof ! Thanks again !
i still have a full black bottle of slick 50 green label from way back then
Slick 50 was not meant for every other oil change, but every 80'000 km. It was at least 50$ for the bottle in the 80s and 90s. No engine flush then though and that's probably why it disappeared and small 15$ bottles to use every change or at least with every filter change came along.
Smoother, quieter, ran cooler and better economy. I used slick 50 to save money on fuel.
Current vehicle I've got over 450'000km and I change oil at 10'000 instead of the 15'000 factory interval. Uses about 500ml between changes and new cars now use more than that. If I see oil with zinc added on special I use just that. If its the base oil only on special I buy a 15$ bottle of PTFE based additive if it's a flush and filter change and I only change filter every 30'000.
Yes maybe studying the oil shows reduced glomulation, not an issue if you're changing early anyway. It doesn't study friction modification or cold start up protection
@@cruiser6260 I have a black bottle with the green label from back then still sealed I never used lol
I don't usually use motor oil additives. BUT, in defense of Marvel Mystery Oil, I must say I used it once to find out if it would free-up a stuck valve in my 91 Volvo 740 2.4 non-turbo with 360,500 miles on it. I added one quart of MMO to a quarter tank of gas ( 4 gallons), and added one quart of MMO to the crankcase (total of 4.5 quarts). After driving the car for 32 miles the valve started to move, and when I reached 60 miles the valve started functioning properly. New subscriber.
Adding a quart of ATF to the oil will do the same thing as MMO and will be cheaper
Have used it in oooold airplanes that have been sitting. It worked.
@@hotrodray6802 yup! I've commented a few times that I've heard of it help increase compression test numbers on aircraft engines that are below min spec with success. It's not an anti-wear additive as tested, but actually intentionally the opposite.
Mmo has been used since before ww2 used in plane engines to industrial motors why is it bad now?
@@williamtarpley4025it's not, it's just overpriced atf fluid.
OMG TY for doing this. I'm a fleet Manager for a large company in the Northeast and I just took over a year ago. There is an entrenched belief among some of our mechanics that Lucas is helping with our aging fleet. I have tried to tell them that all we are doing is thickening the oil. I have tried to tell them If you truly believe that a higher viscosity is the right answer for engines that idle a lot and have high mileage, then just use a thicker grade. Now I have my proof. TY so much for giving me a reason to dump the expensive snake oil.
That Lucas oil stabilizer is only used to store engines, put it in and run it for 10 minutes and shut it off. It will cling to the surfaces better and prevent corrosion. It's not a anti-wear additive.
Naw, then they'd be losing money, they want you to use it all the time! I call it Lucas mucus ! Lol
@@plav032yep. It's not a fair comparison. Basically an internal fogging
Remember the plastic Lucas gearboxes in the Otto parts stores? I used to think, "How is GLUE supposed to give me better mileage?"
Apparently, I was right!
@@garychandler4296🎉
I use Seafoam frequently. I've used it on an old Harley shovelhead, bore scoped it before and after. It did remove some carbon off the piston, and cleaned the intake and exhaust runners a bit. I have also used to go clean out gunked up carb jets when feeling lazy and it worked.
Never used it in oil, but my understanding is that it's not a long term oil additive. It's intentionally a detergent supposed to be used very short term and exclusively for the purpose of cleaning deposits.
That is how I use it. To the fuel system right before oil changes. Clean and go. I don't want it in my new oil.
Actually came here to point this out. Otherwise I agree with everything in the vid.
Italian tune-up, run engine at ½ throttle while pouring a quart of brake fluid down the carburettor. Smokes like a mo-fo for a few min, but scrubs ALL the carbon out. Hate to know what else goes with it.... 😂
Yes. I was taught to add Sea Foam to oil the day you plan to change oil and then go for a 20-100 mile drive to work it in. Then change oil. I have never added it to fresh oil.
If you're going to flush. CHANGE THE FILTER FIRST. And then change it again after you drain your flushing oil. If an engine needs cleaning, the filter is almost certainly going to be full of dirt and already bypassing... I just do short cycles on oil. go to sub 1,000 mile oil and filter changes. Cleans up in a few oil changes. It's the safe way to do it. But at the very least don't be flushing an engine with a filter that might be bypassing due to being full of dirt.
Seafoam cleaned out my engine. I was getting terrible gas mileage -- it actually got worse the lower the speed. There was a metallic scraping when I would shut off my engine. My instant fuel mileage coasting at 40MPH was barely above what it should've been driving at 40MPH. So pretty obvious increased friction from oil starvation. Running Seafoam through the crank cleared up the scraping and my highway MPG went from ~22 to 30, and I was back to ~38MPG at 40MPH rather than 18.
You're going to want to do an oil change after 50-100 miles to get the crud it dissolved out of your engine, but it works. As the top comment says, it's a cleaner, not an additive package.
What do you think of Liqui Moly Motor Protect Additive? It costs 38€. And my engine, 4a91 mivec 109 hp petrol, burns oil, about 630ml per 1000 kilometers. I use 5w40 in summer and 0w40 in winter. Do you have a recommendation for a better variant of oil to use? Thanks in advance!
@@benixck7458expensive, not sure if it’s a cleaner or protectant additive since it’s molybdenum I assume. Google it and make sure it’s what you’re looking for it’s about 7x more expensive than marvel mystery oil or seafo
I worked 22 years at an oil packaging facility, in blending and testing. We heavily relied on Lubrizol, Chevron/Oronite and Ethyl additive companies for guidance. All preached that modern engine oils are finely tuned blends, that work well when changing oil regularly. Additives only unbalance the chemical composition of the engines oil and weren’t necessary and weren’t recommended. Shorter drain intervals were recommended over adding any store bought additives, as they are mostly marketing gimmicks....yielding 💰💰💰
💯 Fact!
Lubrizol is the GOAT. Literally invented ZDDP. They’re forthcoming with information and test results too.
and now the auto OEMs are trying to sell us 10,000mile oil change intervals + lifetime tranny fluid SMDH
@@MarkTrades__ And they're right. That trans fluid will last the life of your vehicle when it dies from the transmission seizing up.
@@randomusermaximuss LOL EXACTLY 🤣🤣
I predict this video is going to get massive viewership as it gets shared on forums and discussions all over the internet. Outstanding info. Hopefully this helps people ignore the nonsense marketing and keep some of their money. Thank you!!
Absolutely! Save your money!!! Thanks for the kind words.
Yes and there is going to be some brands that are not going to be very happy with the truth being out how they are ripping us off.
@@Ron_Masterjohngood!
Slick 50! 😂
@@ChrisPatrick-q6k Jeez, is that stuff still around?
Would love to see a Fuel Additive breakdown with this level of detail.
Agreed
Redline is the best, trust lol
Yeah I'm kind of confused since fuel additives is in the title lol
@uncreativename9936 he does mention them but there is a guy on UA-cam who has tested all of em , none compare to redline for $15, 2nd best is that bp44 stuff that's like $30
@@sheldondrewett4123 which one guy on UA-cam?
Thank you sir ! I have been trying to tell people for years that oil additives are not the answer, Its oil changes ,keeping the oil clean so it can do its job
It does its job once it's been pumped up to the valve train and warm. Friction modification is for when most wear happens, at startup and the first couple of
cold minutes
LSJ is singlehandedly educating the world on modern oil formulations. Well done, sir!
And exposing🐍🛢️
Thank you for posting this video. This very precisely backs up what I have been telling people since the 80s. The only time you get something positive from an additive is when you've got an engine that needs rebuilt, and a viscosity increase quiets the rod knock. When the engine is at that point, you've really got nothing to lose.
If you go to a straight weight oil from a multi weight you sometimes can quiet an engine.
Good old junkyard scumbag trick, pour some super thick oil into an engine with rod knock and sell it.
@@SomeOne_86true… bought my Ford 1951 F-1 v8 got an oil that was like cream.
It becomes a losing battle, the biggest challenge is fuel dilution and blowback from bad cylinder wall… the oil gets bad, very bad very fast… my 1951 Ford truck will blacken my Lucas full synthetic in about 3 hours run time… in 10 hours run time its like black ink from so much carbon contamination and fuel dilution.
@@oldgringo66 Who's running a straight weight oil in the first place???
Back in 2000´s, the days when I was studying to be a technician, we had a short scratch on the surface about oils, oil additives and stuff they do. I have not used "special" additives ever since and I just heard pretty much the same reasonings here as what my teacher said back then.
Important video, thanks!
2009 Crown Vic police. 250,000 miles penzoil platinum, plus 6 Oz of motokote. Mmo 100 mile before change.
At 5000 mile , oil is still golden brown. Rescent plug change, plugs were worn but perfect color. Burns about 1qt oil every 4000 miles.
Got the car with 50k.
Used as Uber Lyft car. Still runs perfectly.
Seafoam singlehandedly unclogged the injectors on my diesel dump truck. WELL worth the money.
You must have used it in the fuel then? 🙂
@@mcplutt yes. I know in the video he showed it in the oil. Terrible idea using it there.
@MeltingRubberZ28 it's good under the correct circumstances, had a v10 dodge that only held 5 quarts of oil after a change, put seafoam in the oil for like 100miles changed the oil and way more came out than ever had before. Truck now takes the correct 7 quarts of oil per change.
It's a fuel additive not oil.
@@Si0nbarzahd .... sounds like you got some issues getting oil out that should just simply be draining out.
2014 F150 3.5L ecoboost. Entire life on Amsoil signature series and truck has 315000kilometers. Doesn’t use a drop. Has never had any internal timing components fail. Zero cold start rattle or any other typical ecoboost variable timing parts issues. I use a dual remote filter setup that has amsoil primary filter and bypass filter. Clean high quality oil and motor runs as well as when it was new.
Amsoil Signature Series the best oil money can buy!
I’m blown away at people’s comments, trying to refute what Lake showed in his video…
just goes to show why politicians get away with lying to people & people blindly believe them!
I don't understand what he showed, why he mix it? My English not so good. But I use aditives for whole life, and I fix many problems with them, and also prevent many problems. For example, injector cleaning do very well, some cars and tools was out of oil but didn't broke, etc.
@@aleksandarpetrovic6613 30+ years ago I had a little 914 Porsche & it looked like carbs needed rebuilding. By chance I tried Techron fuel injector cleaner & I was shocked that with in 15 miles it had worked! I’ve been a believer of Techron since. So yes, some additives can help, oddly enough Lake likes Techron (complete). With oil it’s different since oil is a lubricant vs something burned in the fuel. My take on what Lake presented is this; 1) with any additive the oil is being diluted & thus the properties the oil possesses aren’t as strong as they need to be on just a concentration level. 2) some oil additives actually add harmful products to the oil others very little is added but overall it makes the mixture of the oil not ideal for the engine, ultimately doing long term damage. One may not ever see the actual damage until it breaks.
Think of it like a recipe, say chocolate chip cookies with certain ingredients at specific amounts. At the correct amounts the ingredients make amazing cookies! Now let’s say we add hamburger to the cookie batter, it’s not helping the original recipe mixture at all & the once ideal cookies are now something different. Thus adding to the oil an oil additive in a bottle could (& does per Lake’s testing) cause the overall mixture to become something very different than the original oil by itself, it’s now not a good mixture which could cause damage to the engine over time. Unfortunately one would see the damage until it breaks. Hope that makes sense?
@@aleksandarpetrovic6613 He mentioned fuel additives are actually okay for cleaning, but not oil additives.
Exactly!! "IVe bEen usInG bRaNd X snAkEoiL fOr YeaRs"
What do you think of Liqui Moly Motor Protect Additive? It costs 38€. And my engine, 4a91 mivec 109 hp petrol, burns oil, about 630ml per 1000 kilometers. I use 5w40 in summer and 0w40 in winter. Do you have a recommendation for a better variant of oil to use? Thanks in advance!
I worked for your great-uncle in Monticello, MS. I love the family and still consider them dear friends. He had one of your Dad's homemade dune buggies out at his farm. It is a Volkswagen bug body pan complete with barefoot gas pedal. 😊
Awesome!
When I was a young mechanic in HS my teacher convinced me to use STP. This morphed into using Slick 50. After many years of cross country driving using Slick 50 I can honestly say it has no benefits and no real negative. My 1983 Dodge pickup 4x4 with the 318 V8. Stick shift.Drove this truck till 1997 and it had over 300k miles. No engine or transmission issues. But I religiously changed my oil at 3,000 miles !
The 318 is criminally underrated. That engine is so understressed that they just keep on running. The 225 slant six is another one.
@@dougrobinson8602 Agreed. I did so many upgrades to that engine. From big 4 barrel carbs to headers and intake ! Just kept on running !
I worked a Constable he had to furnish his own vehicle bought used police car purchased at auction around 70000 miles used Chevron oil at about 330000 mile oil pressure dropped 10 psi added MMO gained 20 psi drove another 100000 miles Plymouth Fury
So basically you used an additive that reduces the life of your oil, but then changed your oil prematurely, thus never noticing a difference.
@@theredscourge Do you know anything about cars/trucks ? For decades the interval for changing oil was 3,000 miles ! No synthetic oil back then ! So please do us all a favor and don't make uneducated comments. BTW, no waste of oil as the truck lasted a lot of miles !
One of the best videos on this topic ever.
I never got why people buy expensive expertly formulated oils... and then mix it with a bunch of unknown stuff and think it would help them.
In germany we have a saying about such thing ,,viel hilft viel" translates to ,,a lot helps a lot" the counter part to ,,weniger ist mehr" less is more. There are brands like liqui molly which formulate the additives to be compatible with their oils. ceratec though should work with all oils as its just a carrier oil with ceramic particles which are also chemically inert
@@Humbulla93 So... you use an old saying countered by another old saying to defend the use of additives?
*I'm unaccustomed to UA-cam videos that actually have informed substance. Well done!*
Better start looking around then because there are a lot of good informative Channels on a lot of topics. Automotive repair for one: ScannerDanner, South Main Auto, Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics, Diagnose Dan, The Car Care Nut (mostly Toyotas on his), etc. Of course, one has to be aware that there are those who only think they know what they are doing on a variety of topics.
@@KStewart-th4sk Hey thanks for all those recommendations! Really appreciate it.
Look up project farm
@@KStewart-th4sk I am very fortunate to have The Car Care Nut located so close to me in south suburban Chicago.
He's just doing stuff like everyone else to make a video he's got more shit than a Christmas turkey.
2009 dodge ram 3500 6.7 Cummins, has 1,862,000 miles on original motor original transmission, original fuel injectors. I have changed the oil 182 times, Rotella T4 with 32 ounces marvel mystery oil. Nice video, but I’m going to keep doing what I’m doing.
Original fuel injectors?
I have 10 years worth of Blackstone oil analysis sheets I can firmly vouch for 3 standout additives. The first one is the regular Rislone Oil Additive in the yellow bottle, does indeed clean sticky rings and greatly reduces oil burning and afterwards wear metals were lower than ever. Second one is Liquimoly Ceretec, we ran this in over 50 ford 5.4 and 6.8 triton engines and saw a huge decrease in wear metals for 15,000 miles and 3 oil changes later (Liquimoly states it works for 20,000 miles). Wear returned to the "average" number given by lab after 20,000 miles. But we had 3 valve tritons last well over 300k and are still on the road going strong thanks to Ceretec every 20,000 miles. Third is the Liquimoly Mos, this is a great additive as well, personally ran between ceretec treatments in my personal car which was VW 2.0t, cam followers lasted 80k miles instead of the average 35k. Sold the car with original engine and turbo with over 300k on it.
Exactly, I honestly don’t believe in his body language. Something with this video is wrong, his approach on these additives, the way he mixes them can also be done with regular oil and have very similar (foamy) results. Almost like a doctor telling you to only use his medicine instead of taking different known (better) alternatives.
I personally have been dealing with oil and fuel additives for well over 20 years and never once had a problem.
He also doesn’t mention that oil and car manufacturers make and sell their own additives like AMSOIL, MOTORCRAFT, etc.. So that’s that among other things.
Thank you…this is exactly what I was looking for. There’s so much more information than I could understand and you broke it down into the basics and the best. Thanks
if you had paid attention to the video he's not telling you that it's impossible to get positive results with additives, he said it is like playing russian roulette with your oil chemistry. this comment section is like the olympics of mental gymnastics, because people invest huge amounts of their egos into stupid things and those egos mean they will do anything it takes if it means they can hold on to their deep seeded biases.
How many years ago was this? Oils have changed a lot in the last 20 years.
Any additives in your opinion which may contain lead? My N54 BMW had 9ppm lead on my first oil change owning it 🎆
Per Wikipedia: The Marvel Oil Company (also known as Marvel Carburetor Company; Marvel-Schebler Carburetors since 1928) was founded by Burt Pierce in 1923.[2] Before World War I, the company produced carburetors for automobiles and aircraft. Some of these encountered problems with clogged jets, prompting Pierce to formulate a blend of chemicals and petroleum to clean and maintain them.
Bottom line, this stuff works on carburetors, it's an ultrathin oil with solvents. The oil part is key in carburetors, it helps the solvent penetrate better while lubricating any moving parts. It also prevents corrosion in carburetors from ethanol fuel
I add MMO to the fuel in my flathead ford, harley davidson and all my 4 stroke small engines.
I think it is best used in fuels
Only thing I add to my '43 Ford tractor's is Sta-bil in the fuel. That's it. Even the case oil is just plain old mineral oil from tractor supply. Purrs like a kitten, starts every time, the lift works great.
The reason for the sta-bil is because I only go through a tank of gas every 3 months or so. If I was using the thing every day I'd just run plain old low octane and call it good.
Aopa did an article on it back in the 80s because of the amount of people using it in planes,yet its not faa certified.
It does keep those old dogs from sticking valves ,as it's a naptha based oil so it has some cleaning abilities.
It's still not certified but it's still doing the job.
@@danielleroberts8964 I’m curious how effective it is with direct injection.✌️
This proves what I have been doing for decades.
Use a quality oil and filter and change it every 3,000 to 5,000 miles.
Just came across your channel and found it to be right on point scientifically.
New Subscriber!!!
A quality oil and filter? I'd say 5-7000🤷🏽♂️
It’s almost like the engineers who design the engines have spent a lot of time thinking about all of this stuff. 😉
3000-6009 miles.
69-420 miles.
@@willg.5168 not 7 no way 5 maybe 6k with highway driving
Been blowing up and rebuilding engines since the mid 90s. I trust everything LUCAS. Building SBC engines and doing things they were not meant to do adding LUCAS always helped out. You must know about race engines from your background. I always use to do 7-8 quarts on my race engines but started adding LUCAS in place of a quart of oil and my engines would last twice as long.
Same goes for LUCAS fuel additive. Bored in the garage one day I took a set of known bad injectors and tested all fuel additives from my local auto parts store. Only LUCAS fuel additive cleaned the injector. The spray pattern corrected itself within 30 seconds.
You should get a set of bad injectors and make a testing station and try all additives you can find. Lets see real world results. Not graphs and talk. Not engineer speak.
Great video. Not bashing. I just like real world results.
Never even seen someone use Lucas. After a bit of digging into reviews etc, i decided to give transmission fix a go. While it hasn’t been long enough to know if it will stop the leak sufficiently, it is 1000% shifting better. No slips, hesitation, nothing. I will absolutely be trying their fuel cleaner additive.
I've used Lucas oil Stabilizer along with Shell RotellaT 15-40 for 15-20 years in gas, diesel, even lawnmower
with good results. I don't have a lab to test my oil or filters. I just run the piss out of the engines once warmed up and have had good results. Lifters that were noticeably noisy before Lucas became quiet. We used the heavy oil/transmission/gear final drive oil treatment, possibly called hub oil treatment and it slowed the frequent steady drip from final drive seals to only a drip occasionally. This big 4-wd tractor is a 1974 model. It does soften, swell, liven, or whatever? to the seals so that the severe leaks slowed to something we could live with. I've torn down engines that we used Lucas in and after sitting for several months the internal parts still had a coating of oil. I do not use the Lucas treatment yet in my GM car that uses 5W30 synthetic, but will do so after reaching 150,000 to 200,000 mile mark. At 110,000 currently. Oil, filters, and additives are less expensive for those on a slim budget than coughing a huge amount of money for a rebuild all at one time.
Project farm did a test with Lucas and uses small engines from harbor freight to test its effectiveness. he drained all the oil and let the engines run till they blew up or seized. Lucas being in the small engine caused it last like 30mins with NO OIL (drained) vs like 10. and they way they failed were spectacularly different. the small engine with Lucas seized while the other one blew up catastrophically.
I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9 Turbo and I have 250, 000 on it. I used 2 quarts of Lucas oil Stabilizer ever 5,000 miles in the oil changes. Still running strong.
Lucas has a brown/tan tint its not clear anyways 😂
Definitely need to do this is with fuel additives to see how it would affect the oil by being in the gas.
I was always told by mechanics and oil company reps that fuel additives should be used up (i.e. run the tank down) then do an oil change. Because yes, they will have an effect on the oil.
@@DeuceDeuceBravowell that’s probably important…
@@DeuceDeuceBravo not true. fuel additives are designed for continual use without oil changes. Read the prints from redline and techron.
@@DeuceDeuceBravo Well he just finished saying in the video to use fuel additive cleaners to keep injectors clean and he didn't say anything about changing oil right after. I believe he was talking about diesel injectors but i would assume it would apply to gas engines too.
@@DeuceDeuceBravothere’s no way a fuel cleaner can affect the oil. That would only be an issue if the piston rings were not 100% sealing meaning you have a loss of compression. Fuel is injected then burned if you have a bad ring then it could mix with the oil other then that it won’t affect the oil.
Thanks for doing all the testing! And then translating it so those of us who don’t have a technical background in the field can understand basics.
Project farms proved that MMO does some of what it claims. It cleans deposits used in the gas, and it will decrease the scored area of the bearing wear test, it also helps thin the oil for cold weather. I'm using it.
Yeah while I think these results are proving something it’s hard to follow whether he’s actually testing for what the additive claims to do.
I use MMO for a few hundred miles before and oil change (which is about every 3-5k miles). My oil absolutely gets blacker vs not using it.
One one car I had a lifter tick when warming up and now its 90% gone in the cold and nonexistent in warmer temps at cold start.
I'm sold on using it that way.
What oil do you need to thin?
Agreed. I started using MMO Synthetic additive when I bought a 17 F150 with the GEN2 EB to try and keep the OEM cam phasers happy. So far they've been quiet as church mice. I feel the engine as a whole just runs quieter with the MMO in it. I wish I had tried some of this in my old LS1 car to see if it would quiet some of that cold start valve knock. With that said I'm 42 and traditionally I'm against additives, and for high quality oil, but I've started to become sold on this MMO stuff.
Also I own a 18 F150 with the 5L (EB is wifey's truck) and while my truck doesn't experience noticeable oil burnoff, many of the 18-20 5L trucks do. This is due to Ford specking too rough a surface finish on the cylinder linears that don't allow for a good seal between the cylinders and the rings, and the rough surface gives the oil a place to escape the rings. Some (not all) people have claimed to have fixed or lessoned this issue with 2-3 OCI's using a Moly oil additive treatment. I guess the theory is the moly starts to fill in the rough imperfections in the cylinders allowing for the rings to get a good seal, and preventing the oil from escaping at a high rate.
Was just recommended one of your videos and wow😮. I love this type of content that isn't speculation but rather let's the hard factual science speak for itself. There is no need for bias as ultimately we all want products that deliver what we pay for. I'm also glad that you talked about the value of fuel additives in order to balance the content and show that it's not all a sham.
"Don't put that crap in your engine" is the best comment I heard. Yep, use the oil that fits your needs with no additives.
yeah, i was one of the additive fans, after switching to shell rotella or rimula, however you wanna call it, i never use any additives... Good oil is all that you need... Anything else is just plain compromise...
I’f you change the oil regularly and the engine is running healthy you don’t need extra additives.
Plus, use the manufacturers recommended viscosity oil! Thicker oil does not equal better lubrication, and you are not smarter than the people who designed either the engine or the oil that's supposed to be used in it.
Well it really depends. ZDDP is something that is required for flat tappet cam engines. Modern day oils don't add it besides race oil. My truck for example has an old 350 with a flat tappet, so ZDDP is kinda required to add since my local automotive shop doesn't have the right oil with ZDDP already mixed. The reason why it needs it is because flat tappet camshafts need a sacrificial layer which the zinc provides, roller cams don't need that. So since the industry went from flat to roller, and emission standard as zinc wheres out the catalytic faster, so it was heavily reduced.
@@hornhunter7 As far as I know, Mobil 1's racing oil has the same levels of additives that allow normal oil change intervals like any other street oil, just with greatly increased levels of anti-wear additives including zinc.
Ive been using Liqui Moly MOs2 for quite some time and ive felt both my engines run much smoother and start much quieter. It's nice to see it just adds Molybdenum and it creates no conflict with the other additives that the oil already has.
I’m an automotive technician for ford certified. But my hobby is euro cars specifically vag. With that being said I love learning from you and don’t act like I know everything. Your knowledge really helped me make better decisions with my maintenance on my 17 gti and 18 Passat both with the 2.0 ea888 gen 3 engine. I appreciate you!
Also been using penz euro car 5w40 In my GTI
Thank you sir!
My grandfather swore by Rislone Engine Treatment. I realized later in life that he assumed that modern oil was still based on 1940's technology.
Zinc is not happy with catalytic convertors - but it does have superior wear qualities
😂
Hit the nail on the head there.
Yah this is a really good point. A lot of these additives were incredibly help at one point in time when most oil formulations on the market were much more basic than they are today and when engines were all push rod.
True
This video was needed , so many shade tree mechanics swear by adding this junk . Thinking they're helping and they're really hurting their engine. Just buy the correct motor oil, and don't go 10,000 miles
Some shade tree mechanics are better than most are certified guys
But the Lucas Oil stabilizer is good for old schools to eliminate dry starts after sitting for a while
I typically do an oil change at 8000 miles sometimes it goes out to 9500 but I'm not your typical driver my average day is 500 miles and is not uncommon to do 800 or maybe 900 occasionally more but I'm not your normal grocery getter that drives 5 miles to this store and then goes home I start it and it runs until I shut it off with rare exceptions for bathroom stops
all my tests have come back good and it works for me I wouldn't recommend it for most people my driving is totally different
I'm so far away from average that you can't see it from where I am
Seafoam goes in the oil right before changing it to break up sludge. It has instructions. You are supposed to change the oil after 100 to 200 miles if I remember right. It works great, but I wouldn't use it on a clean newish engine, and i don't use it for every oil change.
Yes. What Lake said was true, but he didn't follow the procedure and ignored that variables that come with rehabbing old or abused engines. I wouldn't be adding Sea Foam to a brand new engine.
Why not just... i dunno, change the oil instead?
@@p0intdk You do understand that one cannot change what was done to a car by the previous owner right? Besides that, any car with enough miles on it will have sludge buildup regardless of timely oil changes.
@@11regnartseht Bruh... you can't just do an engine flush or throw additives in an engine to break up sludge past a certain point. At that point it's going to act like a clogged artery and cause a heart attack on the engine. OK well maybe not QUITE the same but the concept is similar. Sludge gets caught up in the pick up tube, it can clog a hydraulic lifter there is a massive amount of things that can happen when you try to break things up in the engine rather than disassembling and cleaning properly.
And no, a properly maintained engine will not have sludge buildup anywhere. Idk where you heard that is a normal thing to see with proper maintenance lol
@@rue2973 yet none of those bad things ever happened to me, anyone I know, or anyone I've ever heard of. I literally just bought a poorly maintained but mechanically solid 98 Subaru with 180000mi. The engine was noisy and still running a little rough after doing the usual old car tuneup. The oil was fairly clean when I put seafoam in. After 100 or so miles the oil was black as night. Changed the oil. The engine is quiet and running smooth. There's still a little lifter rattle when it's cold. Major improvement if you ask me, and absolutely nothing went wrong.
You leave me leaning forward inside of myself with the anticipation of learning more. You are a blessing to those of us seeking knowledge and truth. I and others here are grateful for your tenacious spirit and the time you invest proving these things out. Your time does mean something. I thank and appreciate you.
Prayers Up!
Thank you!
I'm pretty much speechless. This is the most comprehensive scientific side by side test of oil additives I have ever seen in my life. This is science, not speculation. I use an oil additive, however not one used in your tests. MotorKote. I would have loved to have seen it as part of the tests, but I think I know what to expect. Thanks for this evaluation!!
It will quiet engines but produces hydrochloric acid over time. Oil changes should be short in between with it. Better results with Amsoil Signature Oil, Red Line Performance, or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum just as some examples (and these will help quiet the "hemi tick" for example). I'm not an expert but do use the first two oils with great results and have used MotorKote once which worked to quiet a GM 4.8. But only used MotorKote once in this 16+ year old engine. Again not an expert just someone whose driven for over 50 years and enjoy learning from this program. I personally would never put MotorKote in a new engine.
@@t.j.cuddington7795 How do you know the hydrochloric acid statement? Is there some testing result somewhere you can link? Thanks.
Man that's awesome. I've told people for a long time now not to add stuff to the oil, and now I have proof. Thanks.
You don't have proof now
@jasonk876 if you don't mind sir, tell me how I don't have proof.
@@andrewanderson1436 Sure, that's a reasonable request. 3:25 "...when you add another chemical... sometimes it can go good, sometimes it can go bad."
It's a mixed bag and really just depends.
That's not very definitive, is it?
I don't use additives, btw.
@jasonk876 fair enough sir.
Much respect for your effort to open our eyes blinded by aggressive marketing.
Thank you!
More like scam marketing. Should be criminalized if doesn’t do what it says it does. Waste of product, ingredients, etc.
Thank you for your time and effort putting this video together, there was a lot of good information in it.
Glad it was helpful!
There is no denying the fact that moly is a fantastic dry lube as its used for rings, bearings, piston skirts, assembly lubes, thread grease, ect. and even a trace additive in many high end motor oils. The liquimoly mso2 additive is a small particle dry lube suspended in a carrier oil that helps to evenly blend it into the oil then boil off. As long as you dont have one of those ultra low micron filters the moly will hang out in the oil until it gets mushed into the microscopic imperfections of the high friction locations resulting in less friction less wear. I use it religiously in all my motors but at 1/4 the suggested dose. Some things I notice when using it are noisy valvetrains get a near instant hush, engines last 2x-3x longer and increased power output.
Also I was in a situation where a fuel injector failed while stuck open and I was able to reduce the misfire / detonation with some marv's mystery oil upper cylinder lubricant (fuel additive)
But he just showed that in some circumstances, wear went up even while friction went down.
@@bry2k The most expensive motor oils contain moly
@@fivestar2227 But it most likely is the newer 'trimer' type molybdenum (or a mix of older 'dimer' type and the newer trimer type) in those high end oils.
A LM 'tech' once told me that their MOS2 additive is ONLY the old school, 'dimer' type of moly, unless he was lying to me.
BTW; I am NOT a LM 'hater' as I use their Molygen oil in my 1.6 EcoBoost currently. 😉
Just add ATF. About 8oz to ten gallons. It'll clean up injectors. I make 1/3 part Denatured alcohol, Marvins, ATF micron IV. Which is pretty much the same thing as most injector cleaners. Told to me from a old chemical engineer that worked in the automotive industry.
Is molybdenum disulfide any better than graphite motor oil?
I agree, 6:45 do not add anything to fully-formulated motor oil. If it's lacking something research a better quality oil
Spot on.
@@ChrisPatrick-q6k Period
Exactly! If you think your oil is lacking something, use a better oil. Don't gamble being a shade tree chemist adding your special sauce to your engine oil, that's nonsense.
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 Unfortunately, you're always going to come across someone who knows best, who's 1959 classic is safer than anything being constructed today, who attends Flat Earth conventions, who believes the moon landings were faked and COVID 19 was a hoax. You can't help them, let them eat cake.
I am so grateful for dedicating your time to educate the public at large
Thank you!
Thanks mate. You've changed my bad habit and saved me money. I over service my car and change the oil & filter every 3000 miles. No more oil additives.
@@themotoroilgeekwhat's you thoughts on whether to change oil say each year even thought say half the specified change miles/kilometers have been done?... Like does oil in your tests accumulate moisture from sitting around if you have done such tests?
@@themotoroilgeek I watched this, and your other video stricktly on zddp additives. and I have a friend who just got a 2015 tdi and he just changed with the good oil 507.00 but he put 1/2 cup of STP (with zddp) in it. Should he do an immediate oil change?
"the science says your wrong" very objective and interesting results. well done
You’re *
*you're
I remember watching a british program that tested a well used, somewhat modestly taken care of VW rabbit or something of the like. Anyway, they dynoed the VW with and without the use of a fuel additive specifically containing PEA. The VW picked up about 7hp to the wheels 2 weeks after the use of the additive in 1 full tank of gas. Everyone was surprised. Since then, I've always been interested in this type of stuff.
I think that was ‘Fifth Gear’.
I remember it.
They added different ‘performance add-ons’ to see which worked best and also used a fuel system cleaner (Redex).
The fuel system cleaner, on its own, gave more BHP improvement than all of the bolt-ones together.
I took a risk, about 6 years ago, and bought a Fiat for £500 (I’m in the UK) with a view of it being my sons first car if I could fix it.
It ran bad and had no power.
I hoped it was just the injectors and before I changed anything else, I ran 2 tanks of fuel with Redex in it.
It transformed the car. I then serviced it and run it for a while, still adding Redex, until I was sure that it was reliable.
My son drove and cherished it for 3 years until he traded up.
It became one of the most reliable cars, this family has owned.
I had to retire early due to ill health and have had to get more back into basic car mechanics as a cost saving (brakes, suspension, belts, etc as well as oil, filters, etc) and I’m loving doing what I can, which isn’t much, but more so, teaching my son.
I say to him often, “just remember, every bolt you tighten relies on you staying on the road at 70mph. Before the wheel goes on, or the bonnet/hood goes down, check everything. Then double check the wheel.”
👍
@BionicRusty yes! 5th gear!
Thanks for the info, completely changed my mindset! I've used Prolong on several engines, and never noticed anything bad, but seeing your analysis results, I will never use an additive in my engine oil ever again! And I'm forwarding your video to my mechanic buddy!
I remember when the original STP was a hot item Kendall produced a tech letter saying why would anyone add it to their oil when the major oil companies spent a gazillion dollars to remove it in the first place.
I've seen what stp does to engines internally. 😅 I dont buy stp at all.
It's a good O ring & seal assembly lube, that all I use it for however.
STP was designed to be used in race car engines that were rebuilt after 2 or 3runs so there wouldn't be build up on all block internal parts
Had an '73 Oldsmobile 350 with a bunch of miles, made the mistake of towing a trailer. Engine immediately started smoking "like a freight train". Parked it for months, thinking it's a goner. Added STP, it stopped smoking right away. Kept and drove for 2-3 more years. Your results may vary.
@@oneninerniner3427as a bicycle mechanic I've found a use for STP...I use a mix of ATF and a bit of grease to thicken it to lube bushings without disassembling them so I put a small amount of STP in it to get that stuff to creep into the bushings . I am also a fan of Lucas Red"n" Tacky for bicycles as it proved to hold up well in bearings ( including disk brake hubs) and flows well . There is better, but at $35 a pound I couldn't justify it for the bulk of what I was using it for. Rain , shine and snow 365 days a year it lasted in Mikey's bicycle (my costumer who was a great test mule) 3 years and still going fine.
Back in the 1980s, ran an engine flush on a 1969 351w, ran it for about 15 minutes, drained, filter change refilled and added Slick50. I did have to readjust my idle back down after so I thought it worked. I don’t think I have used an oil additive since. Now watching this I’m glad I didn’t.
Love to see the results on diesel targeted additives like RevX,Archoil,Hotshots secret stiction reducer. These are very well known in the diesel industry but I can never find any scientific testing regarding what they do to your oil. Thanks for bringing your knowledge to the average consumer.
Even Steve Morris racing engines is endorcing Rev-X and he supplys it with all his new engines. Would like to see a test on it. Also a ton of Ford 6.0 Diesel guys swear by it.
I’ve used the Hotshots stiction reducer on a 6.0 Powerstroke. It worked as advertised. Granted I’ve also heard from some users that it didn’t fix their stiction problem. I’d be interested to hear about the science behind it as I can only go by my own experience.
I’d also like to see a test on Archoil.
@@markthegunplumber8376 Well that's disappointing, that's about the most obvious bottle of snake oil I've ever seen.
Yeah, I've heard alot about Archoil and Hotshots Stiction eliminator but never seen any scientific results.
Also would love to see a video on Diesel fuel additives.
Finally a video that is in English and uses actual tests, science, and facts.
(Quietly puts the engine oil additive back on the shelf I’ve been using for years)
🐈⬛️Cat jumps on shelf and pushed the additive to the floor😂😂😂
I used mystery oil on a couple of my cars & they ran marvelously up to 175k miles of daily beatings, redlines, burnouts & drifts, before selling. Both were very good on gas & never smoked or anything & the crankcase always looked pristine. Deff no complaints.
Use marvel break in and from there on your engine stays maintained you have a good shot of lasting a long time
I love Marvel. Stuff works fantastic.
Btw. Anyone notice the dude was using a whisk and then complaining about froth?? The unit he used is DESIGNED to introduce air.
@@Hotel_ChuckEXACTLY.., it’s almost like when someone dislikes something for whatever reason and they try so hard to make it look bad all the time or discredit it, even though other people have proof of good experiences/results with that same product or item.
The reason frothing is bad is because the pump that shoots the oil up from the sump into the crankcase introduces oxygen bubbles as well during hard driving, if the oil froths up from a stir stick then there is a very good chance it'll foam up in the block.
@@oeku3432the guy didn’t run a control with the “frother”. Guarantee the straight oil would be full of bubbles too with that think.
MMO....I have a 2005 5.3L automatic 4x4 Yukon with 223,000 miles. It holds 6 qts of oil. I changed oil (10w30 conventional) and filter (walmart brand base filter) before a 6,500 mile mostly intestate trip from CO mountains to Mid-Atlantic to South and then back up to CO mountains.
In the first 4,000 miles of trip Yukon burned 1.75 quarts of oil. Before making the last 2,500 miles of trip (uphill to CO) I added .75 quart MMO (conventional formula) to bring level to Full.
It burned none in 2,500 miles to and around CO before I changed the oil/filter. So it went from burning 1.75 qts in 4,000 miles mostly downhill driving to not burning any in the next 2,500 miles of uphill and mountain driving.
On the trip I averaged between 16.8 and 18.1 mpg, checked by gallons and miles tracking and compared to vehicles MPG gauge. The computer was very close, always within .1 to .2 mpg.
Can someone explain this dynamic?
I'm going to test it again on another 3,500 mile road trip soon to South and back to CO again. If I have to add a quart I'm going to add 1 qt MMO to see if it stops the consumption again.
I've added transmission fluids, gear oil (just 1 qt), vegetable oil, power steering fluid, and even brske fluid to my oil crankcase before in emergencies and drove it thousands of miles before changing. Didn't seem to have any negative affects.
down hill you suck oil by the valve guides, up hill you don't
@MultiLEGODOG downhill is gradually in my case. Not a steep grade the 4,000. I doubt it was the leveling of the truck on the road.
Lake,
A couple topics to consider.
Automotive additives to test to augment this video:
- Z-Max
- BG MOA
While off the topic of automotive oils, it would be very cool to see your level of testing and analysis for aviation piston oils (Aeroshell & Phillips), and the additives available (Avblend (i.e. Z-max), Camguard, and Lycoming’s LW-16702).
But at this point, it's all just a matter of the degree of severity and detrimental effect. Any further testing would just be rating the "Bad" to the "Worst". Unless you suspect that there is possibly one or possibly two "Shining Star Additives", more testing is honestly a waste of resources and time.
Wow glad I saw this. I just bought some Hot Shots FR3 and was going to put it in my Honda Odyssey van when took the van to Walmart with my own Royal Purple (36520-6PK HPS 5W-20 Synthetic Motor Oil with Synerlec Additive Technology oil and K&N filter. I asked them to leave out half a quart so I could add the Hot Shots FR3 but they must have forgot so I never added it. So I will be sending it back it looks like. Probably if someone wants to increase the life of our engines we should change the oil even a synthetic every 3000 miles so it’s stays nice and fresh and doesn’t get broke down. My thoughts anyone?
Are you saying these aviation oils you listed would be good to run in our vintage and late model cars? I use Drivens Hot Rod oil in everything from my lawn mower to my LS engines. Everything runs super smooth and the cams all look brand new.
KREEN would be a good one to add, perhaps an "engine flush" video with others.
@@Ron_Masterjohn the odyssey has always been a reliable van. Just change your oil every 3-5k (on the shorter end if the miles rack up slowly) and don't worry about additives or super expensive oils.
Thank you, Mr. Speed. I've been using MMO for years in all my vehicles and have never had a problem with any of them!
You need to specify where exactly you used the infamous MMO. Your statement is too vague. 😒😤
Awesome Video. I was a mechanic for 25 years and have never been a fan of additives. This has confirmed my feelings with data Thanks!!
I don't know much about the science behind it. But i do know the generator on our ship puked less soot after we added an oil additive. Since we had to clean it daily it was very clear to us. The engine also used a little less oil. Before we had to refill a liter once between oil changes and after she was low but not too low just before oil change. We always give fresh oil after 750 hours and the engine made it to 116k hours before she went.
I had been a truck owner for
Over 40 years over 4. Million miles and Lucas oil has NEVER EVER FAILED ME!
The fuel injector cleaner has took my injectors to over 1 million miles!!! I have A Roto tiller that I put it in,50 years old and still starts! Common Scents!!! Saves Big BUCKS!!!
i put trans fix in my 4l;60e and it went from choppy shifts to butter smooth.
@@oculophilia918but did it smell like common scents
@@andrewloera5641 I suppose if the "common scents" did not smell like a roof tar kettle or a forest fire or even a Honey wagon, you're good to go.
However, that familiar scent of old SAE90 in a differential, if it doesn't smell like chit, you know someone used the wrong lube. At least for the most part.
@@andrewloera5641 Lol 😂👌🏼
@@mustbetrue1602 lavender surely
I’ll admit that I’ve been using fuel system cleaner (Redex) all my motoring life, and swear by it, but as far as the oily bits go I only EVER use the correct oil and filter.
Nothing else.
I’ve never even used a flush because of fear of some staying behind which it invariably does.
As ever, a great video.
Big love from the UK 🇬🇧👍
Great Video! I never use additives but always use a motor flush before the first immediate oil change, when I buy a used vehicle, usually MMO, I have tried others. Then change the oil again in about 1000 miles. Can't wait for your motor flush video. Hopefully, sooner than later I'm in the market for a used vehicle right now. Keep up the great work. P.S. When you show a screenshot of an analysis please use a curser so we can follow along better with each of the numbers you explain. With a large highlighted area it's easy to get lost in where you're at.
Flushing out the engine of a used car where the previous owner might have not changed their oil frequently enough is probably the only legitimate use for most oil additives.
I love cars, but I have to admit this is a challenging car video to follow. While humbling, this is invaluable information that is key to understanding the best way to preserve your car. So, I'll watch it again, and instead of only knowing what to and what not to put in my engine, I'll start to consider the chemistry as an essential ingredient for a better understanding of cars.
Basically what it boils down to is the majority could be classified as "snake oil" or in more accurate terms they represent the beauty of a market economy and the effect advertising has one people. While the effective additives are expensive, generally not available at your local pep boys and meant for specialized applications ie racing or heavy duty. The industry prob makes billions from people dumping seafoam in their tank for misfires or "octane" boosters
don't mess with the oil,
just change it if it's old.
his point in the beginning is that a fuel additive can be helpful occasionally.
Bought a car that I didn't know was using oil at a pace of 400mi. per quart. I used Marvel Mystery Oil in it and got it down to about 1200mi. per quart. Then change the oil back to straight oil no MMO. Turns out the car I bought had piston oil ring/oil drain hole issues from the manufacturer. The MMO seemed to be a good cleaner. That's the only claim Ill make for MMO.
Just use a ACEA oil, more detergents.
MMO I’ve used in Crankcase and Gas Tank no problems. Liquid Molly in Gas Tank on long trips think 1,000 miles gets increased fuel mileage. I use my latte mixer in my coffee 😂
@@ChrisPatrick-q6k ACEA oil?
I had the same results with a Toyota 2AD-FE ran the max concentration of MMO and went from 2.5qts per 5k oil change to 1.5qt. It didn’t happen overnight, in fact it took like 40k miles and 8 oil changes.
After hitting 100k my volvo xc60 started using a quart of oil per 400 mi. Finally tried MMM --- one use of MMM got it down to 1 qt per 5000 mi. Blown away. But now afraid to continue!
My uncle got our grandpas 2001 Dakota, and recently it lost a lot of compression in one cylinder and had misfiring issues. I suggested engine restore, he poured a container worth in and the compression came back. He is still driving that tired ole dakota. Its great if you just have nothing to lose.
Dah. So it was a problem that the additive could fix. It's a slippery slope of what fixes what. Project farm has done demos.
Reading the Ingredients and understand what they are for is the best education.
@@0Sirk0 project farm is amazing. Knowing the issue with my uncle's truck and seeing project farms demos is what made me tell him to try it.
Some of these additives have a legitimate use as a way to clean out a crudded up engine after the fact, by putting it in the oil, running it for maybe 50-250 miles (depending on which additive), then doing another oil change to get it and the crud out.
Using them and thinking they are going to improve performance is just not going to work, as was demonstrated in this video.
Seafoam is the only thing I use in that lineup, and NEVER in the crankcase. Gas tank only and I feed it through the vacuum line sometimes too. It saved me many carb rebuilds on small engines. I also use it as a fuel stabilizer and buy it by the gallon! Just my $0.02
Why not the crankcase?
This video got me hooked on your channel. I thoroughly enjoy the scientific approach to what you’re doing. This video also stirred up a few future video ideas possibly. Two-stroke motor oil. Air cooled versus TCW3, Different manufacturers of two-stroke oil and how the oil interacts with the gasoline chemically, and oxygenation effects after it’s been mixed with gasoline. I know it’s off the beaten path of your traditional videos, but it might be interesting to see the results. Just food for thought. Great job on your channel! I look forward to watching more!
Hi Lake, First off, THANK YOU FOR HELPING YOUR AUDIENCE!! We truly appreciate what you share. I'm not much of a tune-up in a bottle mechanic short of gas additives to keep injectors clean. That being said, years back, I tried and liked Slick 50. Then, at some point, the company sold, and the recipe changed. I didn't catch it right away, but when I did, I stopped using it. Now, recently, the original Slick 50 inventor started selling the original formula, updating the technology and promoting it as classic or original or something like that verbiage. It would be fantastic if you could include both versions in your next oil additive rundown. Please keep up the great work. You rock buddy! TJ
i bought new 1990 f150 and used slick 50 shortly afterwards and my old 5.8L has 260k without any problems. added a quart of the original formula recently and hope it continues my truck's happiness.
Your presentation is identical to that of a Texaco engineering presentation at our plant site over twenty years ago. Oil additives were at that time not recommended by the oil manufacturer. Great to see this presentation again. Oil additives are bad.
2nd
Thank you. I learned from some of the best in the industry.
I’d love your input. I grew up on a large cattle ranch in the 60’s-80’s. My dad believed in Marvel mystery oil. Literally every single motor on our ranch, and many other ranches around us used the Marvel Mystery INVERSE oilers. We didn’t put it on the engine oil. Best I can remember, we connected to a vacuum line that put a single drop into the fuel as it entered the carburetors. Dad believed it kept carbon from building up. Best I can remember it added a single drop about every 20 seconds.
I love your enthusiasm and delivery of your videos man
I appreciate that!
Thank you, Lake, we have been looking forward to finally see your next video.
This is fascinating information. I drive older, pre-Chrysler Mercedes cars and use only oils recommended by the factory manuals, never with additives. My lowest mile car has 108k miles, the highest 382k miles, never with any kind of wear issues related to engine oil. The only special thing I do is, before oil changes, drain 1 quart, replace with good quality Dexron ATF then drive around at low-medium speeds until the car gets up to temp for 10-15 minutes, put it on the ramps and do the change. My uncle who was an Army mechanic for 35 years told me that the ATF, which is high in detergent content compared to engine oil, provides a pretty safe means of liberating some deposits on wear parts and putting them back into suspension to be drained out. I keep a strong neodymium magnet on the pan bolts which, when removed to drain the oil should allow any metallic particles trapped in the pans to flow out. Any opinion on the ATF "trick" ?
is a lot of bull.stop it just put quality oil and change it often
I want to play devils advocate here as someone who has ran the Lucas oil stabilizer for pretty much my entire life without issue.
(Granted i drive only old-school flat tappet classic era stuff)
Some positives which you almost somewhat indirectly confirmed for me here we're that it doesn't conflict with an existing additive package, only delutes it - so if you change your oil at 3k-ish like I do, probably not an issue.
What I can speak to from pulling valve covers is the cling factor - it definitely keeps a nice oil film on critical parts after sitting for awhile.
On a dry start after a couple days, things basically run dry till oil gets there - it's small, but compared to anything else probably pretty high wear delta.
I wouldn't be surprised at all if mitigating those dry starts, especially with flat tappet cams, has enabled me to stack copious amounts of miles on old classics without any notable wear.
I'm not married to either idea, but I do have reason to beleive that there is something to the cling factor. I "think" that's the sneaky sauce behind it.
Would I put Lucas oil stabilizer in a modern 0w-20 type vehicle? Heck no. Wouldn't even consider it due to the viscosity.
Only old-school flat tappet cam engines - and still I'm highly mindful of my oil pressure.
... just use a higher viscosity oil
@SuperAWaC I was going to say the same BUT, as we've seen with the fun gears in the Lucas display at the parts counter, I believe the Lucas has some form of adhesive that a thicker oil wouldn't. So, over time, the thicker stuff would drawn but the Lucas would stick. Can anyone confirm this?
@@scottcarson19 it acts identically to a heavier viscosity oil. measure the viscosity of oil/stabilizer mix and then compare it to a regular oil of that same viscosity and i guarantee they will look nearly identical
@@SuperAWaC good to know! So, my 2013 5.3l Chevy has a tick (lifters are not collapsed, I checked). People say use mmo, so I added 20% to fresh mobil 1 5w30 (spec)...but it was before I saw this video. People also say to add (sticky) lucas ... but what oil should I use instead, based on this video? 10w40?
@@scottcarson19 If the lucas takes the tick away, take an oil sample and have the viscosity tested, then use whatever motor oil is closest to that. Keep in mind as you raise the viscosity the oil it doesn't flow as well so if you go too high you'll eventually start causing accelerated wear.
you could also try to use 10w40 and see if that fixes it.
My uncle was an old-school Cadillac Tech. Had his own shop for many years. Passed away in the late 80s. He would repeat himself many times about NOT using additives in the engine.
All I wanted to say is thank you!, If you wouldnt have told us, I would have never known, THANK YOU!!!!!
I only use Seafoam in my fuel for my boat that has 4 carborators and is a 1998 Mercury 50hp 4 cylinder 998cc 4 stroke Outboard. I have never once cleaned the carbs. It has kept them from ever clogging up and I have unclogged literally 100's of carborators by adding Seafoam to the fuel system or dumping it directly in the bowls. I guarantee it actually works for cleaning carborators (not fuel injectors) that are clogged but I have never used any additives in my oil and use this tool for its intended purpose only keeping me from ever rebuilding a carbortor thus far on my classic car fleet and my two outboard motors, 3 generators, 2 snow blowers, 4 snowmobiles, 2 jet skies, 4 chainsaws, 3 weed whipers, 2 go carts, 1 wood chipper. I change all my oil religiously along with trans fluied on 60 to 30 plus year old vehicles that all have original drivelines. Maintenance is key over any snake oil but knowing when to use one to get your vehicles you deliberately don't drive for many years back up and running properly makes this product a no brainer as the results for me have been absolutely flawless for 45 years of playing with stuck carbortors. All I know is every time a friend has had a clogged carb issue running ruff or not starting at all and ask for help I grab a can of Seafoam and fill the bowls wait 20 minutes and 100% of the time it works when its a clogged carbortor why I don't know but its that damn effect period.
Hence the name "Sea"foam. 😃
It works great on injectors also, I had one injector fail a flow test, so I soaked it in Sea Foam, then made an adapter so I could spray it through the injector backwards while using a 9V battery to rapidly toggle the solenoid with jumper wires, worked like a charm!
Remember Slick 50? I bought a brand new car and asked the oil change place about it. They sold it but really didn't want to do it. So I didn't do it. Good call by the oil change place. I did more research and learned why it was not a good idea. Quality oil, quality filter, regular oil changes = longest engine life. No oil additives needed, thanks for the science Lake.
I sold Slick50 about 35 years ago. We actually had a lot of satisfied customers 😀Anyway it's not an oil additive meant to improve the oil in any way. It's an engine metal friction reduction treatment.
@@mcpluttStill selling 😉
@@mcplutt I wish they still made it the same way , but it must of been a good product I believe shell bought it and John Biship still has the formula if he is still alive . it was a very good product .
I took heavy duty mechanics in 1989 and I remember my instructor telling us about slick 50 saying it was a way for them to make a slick 50 dollars from the consumer 😅. It cost around 50$ Cad. at that time but now it’s a lot cheaper.
I am 75 years old. I developed my own formula for small engines. I had 6 ounces of Lucas oil stabilizer and 6 ounces of Dura lube engine treatment to the usual 30 weight oil in the small engine. For instance in a lawnmower, I can use that oil formula for two seasons here in Florida mowing lawns. At the beginning of the next season, I change the oil and add the new formula. I’ve never had an engine smoke. I’ve never had an engine breakdown and I swear by this formula for keeping small engines running forever, I’ve gotten rid of a few broken down lawnmowers, but not because the engine stopped running. I got rid of it because it had so many other parts failing.
On another note, if I purchased a used lawnmower and it had a smoking engine, I would add my formula and run it for a while and after a while, the smoking stopped, and I was able to keep that engine running for years without an engine failure . I’d love to see the motor oil geek do a test on that formula and tell me why it has worked so well for me.
I had a customer who bought a Honda new and swore by a oil that was purple in color. He used this oil from day one. When we pulled the valve cover for it's first valve adjustment at the manufactures recommended 30k miles we were both floored by how black his engine was inside. The purple dye in the oil had turned his engine black. Never heard another word about how great that oil was after that.
Royal Purple?
@@TassieLorenzoyou bet and he needed the royal flush after that
Lmfao that is a higher performance racing oil not meant to even be in an engine longe term. Bet that dummy thought shiiit this oil turns my car into a racecar? No sir, it turns *your* car into a brick.
Very informative video. As another used said, Ceretec is sworn by and used by thousands of coyote owners as the only thing that will stop the obnoxious, sporadic “BBQ ignitor” tick that many of these engines suffer from with no explanation. My 2017 GT developed this noise immediately after the first oil change at 5k miles and will do it to this day at 42k miles, unless I add Ceratec. I’ve tried it with oem recommended Motorcraft 5w20 syn blend, 5w30 full syn, and finally 5w50 full syn Motorcraft after I added a TVS supercharger. Doesn’t stop ticking without Ceratec. Something has to be causing this sound
You're probably just masking it by thickening the oil, the rest of the engine will suffer.
@@ChrisPatrick-q6kas stated in the video. Liqui Moly isn’t affecting the viscosity of the oil. Out of the lot Liqui Moly is the lest distructive
The stuff looks like coffee. It’s definitely not thick like the Lucas oil stabilizer. That’s one thing I was always concerned about was thinning the oil out by using it
@@cockylokie7865 Still pointless
I’d just enjoy the tick for hundreds of thousands of miles. Aluminum engines and plastic/composite parts are not good sound deadeners and are just loud engines. Timing chains for days etc. 5w30 and 3-5k mile oci and live life.
I like this guy, but he needs to READ THE DIRECTIONS. I just looked at a bottle of seafoam and it said to add for the last 100-300 miles before each oil change as a treatment for old engines. It's not meant to be used as part of the oil constantly, it's meant to be added in briefly to treat specific issues (low compression, lifter tick, etc) that would otherwise kill an engine before the wear would. If you use it the wrong way, of course it won't help.
“The science says you’re wrong, don’t put that crap in anything”….pretty definitive regardless of what their directions written by the marketing team say
@@Chris-ho4ki That's like saying broccoli isn't healthy because if you inject it into your veins, you die. Using a product as intended matters, the scientific method matters, and common sense matters. It's not supposed to out-oil the oil, it's supposed to do things oil can't (like steam clean the grime out) for a couple hundred miles before an oil change. That's why it boils, although at much higher temps, since it would be pressurized in an engine, which of course he never actually tested.
He certainly failed to prove additives are categorically bad because to do that, he would have to test every additive brand in every base oil brand, in every concentration; and my primary interests went untested, PTFE, lubricating ceramics and small amounts of graphite or graphene. Also, detergency and deposit removal went untested in the 2 products, MMO and Sea Foam, primarily intended to boost detergency; and on top of that it looked to me like a couple of the additives tested very well on iron, though less well on soft bearing wear.
@@alan6832 yeah, it feels like he adds stuff to oil and then fault it for not being as oily. Also to truly prove anything he would need to actually put it in an engine, or at least simulate 60psi or so of oil pressure.
@@jakerox43 I think the lab reports in the last third of the video were on oil that had been in real engines.
LOVE the enthusiasm for, of all things, motor oil. As a nerd myself, really appreciate this information. Who would have thought that motor oil additives are bad but fuel additives are good?
As a side note, I would love to hear Motor Oil Geek say "PLAYOFFS"!
Have used Amsoil signature series exclusively in my vehicles , the longest I kept one was 350000 miles , still running like new . No additives needed .
Scamsoil. Your a sucker I see
Amsoil adds the additives for you. Use good quality filters and add magnets to oil filter and oil pan. Don't exceed 5k miles and you'll rack up miles on that engine.
I have 40 years in oil sample issues with Cat. As a Tech a Manager and a machine shop owner we will agree on use the correct oil and change it on time the best one thing anyone can do. One extended oil change will cost you more than any oil change possibly causing catastrophic failure. The # 1 issue I find is electrolosis from running nasty coolant or water. 9 out of 10 engines that must be taken out of service is generally from holes in liners. Gas engines you have an advantage on me. Mixing the additives with an aeration type mixer at room temperature may not be super accurate as oil pumps are gear driven for that reason not as much air. Good show.
Thanks for sharing the details about the bad coolant.
Crank counterweight slosh will result in a LOT of aereation in a working engine.
@@IhabFahmy Hence the reason for under covers on performance engines. Whatever the real name for em is.
@@IhabFahmy The oil level is below the level of the counterweights or the oil would foam like crazy. But I tend to agree that the pump and the flinging of oil out of the rod journals and squirter jets probably do a lot of mixing.
@@anonimous2451 Windage tray is the word your looking for .
My biggest takeaway is pick a good brand name oil and stick to it and change it regularly. Don't go switching and mixing because not all oils/additive packages are ideally compatible as an oil that has been tested and formulated to work with it's specific additives. Amsoil tells you to change your oil after 3,000 miles when switching to their oil from another brand in order to flush out all the old brand's oil/additives for a reason.
You got it!
@@themotoroilgeek care to look into Cam Guard? Its designed as an anti-wear additive as many of the ones tested weren't designed to reduce wear. We use it in our entire aircraft fleet.
I've never heard that from AMSOIL, but I guess it can't hurt.
I've had great results with Hot Shot's diesel fuel additives. Diesel Extreme, EDT, and EDT+ Winter Defense. 400,000 miles on my 2011 Duramax and everything is happy. I have used Hot Shot's Stiction Eliminator as well. The truck seemed to idle a bit smoother and quieter, but hardly noticeable. Haven't used it since, but I can't personally say I'm for or against it.
I know a successful used car salesman who always mixes a quart of Lucas into every car he sells, because he says it quiets down noisy valves/lifters. I don't have any doubt that it's true, because
you can hear the difference. I just wonder how it is impacting engine performance. (I look forward to watching your upcoming engine flush video.)
I used to use Ceratec in my vehicles, in part because it is known to quiet down the "typewriter tick" the coyote v8 makes. Just recently pulled oil pan off my cars, and the pan bottom was caked with "forbidden glitter" so I thought the bearings were shot. But, as far as I can tell, they are not. No glitter found in the VVT actuators, nothing in the valve cover...nothing anywhere else except the oil pan where it was more solid than fluid. I did some armchair research, and there are a few pictures of other people who had similar deposits in their oil pan, and you can see others showing what looks like bearing glitter in the oil. But it's not -- it's the ceretec falling out of suspension. Which really makes sense because even the bottle tells you to shake it up.
Lots of good info in here. I can see now why I need to pick an oil and stick with it. Doing the OCD brand changeup throughout the year could be bad as you showed. Also, I didn't think that fuel additives were needed, thinking they are already good enough in the gas. Well. you can't argue with proof, so I will definitely start using it.
Thank you for testing these!
Copium. People just love to waste money on useless products and argue about how useful the useless product is. Safe AND Effective.
@@Mr.CellophaneHartnot always. Both coyotes I’ve owned have ticked like crazy unless using Ceretec. There has to be a reason it stops so many of these engines from making noise
@@TheBlack2186 I'll give you that. I'm sure I'd feel the same then. Noises like that are almost always ones you have to live with for lack of a solution. Wears on a guy. I'll have to check that out.
I used to think the same about fuel additives until I came across information comparing fuel standards in Europe and the U.S.
To put it mildly, U.S gas sucks unless you get it from a handful of brands such as Shell and some well run Sunoco stations. Most of the rest are pretty bad compared to Euro gas. A good fuel additive gets you pretty close to a high quality fuel and that's why I started using them. I personally use gumout and Chevron and the Redline stuff once in a while.
I used to wonder why European automotive brands didn't experience as many piston ring sticking issues in Europe as they do here, it's the gas.
If you're using a good gas then the fuel additives probably aren't necessary either. I try to run an occasional tank of Shell 93 in all my vehicles.
Lake, you do excellent work. In fact your channel should be requiring viewing for everyone who touches a drain plug. I have to admit I have never used an oil additive. I figured if my oil NEEDS extra additives, then I am using crap oil. and I have never used crap oil. I used amsoil Pennzoil ultra Plat and Rotella T6 and will continue to do so until something better comes along and change once a year or every 5k Miles using a top quality filter Admittedly I have used oil cleaners in the past, like ATS 505 but only once per motor. I used it in my wife's Land Rover discovery and out came what looked like liquified coal (and smelled like it too) The motor was much quieter and ran much better. I haven't used it since and the oil comes out looking and smelling normal. I do use fuel cleaners and stabilizers once a year or so.
Fun story: I have an 87 Land Rover Ninety with a 2.5 TD engine. I poured in some Amsoil diesel injector cleaner and started the engine. It ran for a minute, the RPMs started bouncing and it stalled. It didn't want to start but after a few tried it fired up again and out the tailpipe came this HUGE plume of black smoke. the RPMs picked up and the engine ran as smooth as silk. Or as smooth as a 2.5TD can run
I'm surprised that you didn't include ATF, since it has also been used as a cleaning additive to oil (like the Rislone) in older, high-mileage cars to help clean dirt and other contaminates when added and the engine operated just a few minutes before an oil change. Great and informative video. Thanks.
I've heard of that and that it can work. But I'd only idle the engine and not put a load it it.