I can honestly say... I've never seen anyone perform a test that included an open flame in close proximity to 10 canisters of highly flammable fuel, including open containers.
It would be interesting to see the results in an actual running engine where where high pressure, higher temperatures and increased air flow could affect results.
Precisely. These tests were flawed (not to mention dangerous). He lit a puddle on a plate at atmospheric pressure, and room temperature. Yet in an engine, the fuel is pressurized, atomized, and heated way above room temperature.
I'm thinking that in a running engine, what's left on the plates would be burned as well. Not all 100%, but most of it. There would still be unburned deposits left, and this test does in some regard show which ones would leave more or less to the others. I agree with Stanley, looks like another Project Farm engine test!😆
We know the fuel gets into the cylinder and cause that explosion, you always see residue on the valves top of piston. So is he just showing a cleaner burn
Project Farm would run it in the engine and show the results of what it does on the insides. He's done that with all kinds of crazy fuel for his poor lawn mower.
I've been running the Aspen 2 in my saws daily falling trees for our logging operation. I mainly switched so I didn't have to breath in all that crap that's put in pump gas. I'm very happy with it and yes it is worth every penny for me to stay healthier. No more headaches from gas fumes.
Hey Stan, love the videos and I don't want to be a troll but... Alkaloid is a functional organic group including morphine, quine and many others, most are naturally occurring plant based molecules with a nitrogen group. Aspen fuels have alkylate, this is the family of molecules named for the refining process they go through. Three components in typical fuels are parafins, olifins and aromatics, single bonds, double bonds and closed rings respectively. All hydrocarbons no nitrogen. The specialty fuels are engineered for very specific properties like detonation, energy per volume, vapor pressure and many others. Way too complicated for a comment. Shoot me a message if you'd like to know more I used to work for one of those big oil companies that shut you out. Probably more marketing departments that didn't want "secrets" exposed rather than the fuel company hiding a bad product.
This whole “experiment” was dumb af. From his non standardized cap measurements, to his turning the camera off to reburn the pump gas. He didn’t even realize the pump gas burned cleaner at first. Then the pump gas plate magically reappears with considerably more carbon on it and he doesn’t mention that he re burned it.. he had to insert that clip in of him “explaining” that pump gas plate when he realized how obv that was in editing.. I’m guessing that company gave him those 55g drums to do a video, which to no ones surprise he botched. “I’ve been researching this for 2 years” and you don’t know the difference between an alkaloid and the alkylate fuel you are promoting??? Gimme a break it should have taken you 2 days with any device connected to the internet to come up with an experiment like this.. but yea it probably does take him 2 years to do what a normal man can intellectually do in 2 days. Dudes a little slow.... Which made this video even funnier!
@@ryanwilkinson571 yeah right, guys a little slow hey? Guy runs 4 crews, has multiple successful businesses, owns or part owns 4 different properties from last count, started from nothing at a young age to now having 717k subscribes. Mean while your sitting in your mum's basement trolling people that get off their ass and have a go. Yeah he is no scientist but at least it started a conversation
@@oldtimefarmboy617 lol vp? I’m assuming that was one of the companies in the video?? No I don’t . it’s the lack of awareness/intelligence on dirt monkeys part that gets me!!
ADVICE: Ten plus bucks a quart is obscene. If you run through a lot, simply mix 5 gallons at a time, use the ethanol free premium option not for the octane, but because the refinery is aware that the expectation is that this gas perform better than regular. Use KLOTZ 2-stroke at 50:1. There are other really great synthetic 2-stroke oil options (Amsoil, Spectro, Yamalube, et.,al) but I've used mostly Klotz with zero trouble. Then transfer into smaller containers for jobsite use. Yes it's a hassle you'll have to deal with every month or so, but waaaay cheaper, and you empower yourself with the fate of your 2-stroke equipment.
Well, Stan, the only thing you could have done is measure the fuels with a hypodermic needle or, weighed them out on a triple beam scale. But, the visual was enough to convince me. I agree with you. I would LOVE to see Project Farm do a comparison of these fuels. He's excellent at testing stuff. Thanks for the education. 👍
I can only go off my experiences with Trufuel. Roughly 3 years ago I switched to Trufuel for all of my 2 stroke equipment (4). Since then, I've had ZERO issues with starting and sitting over winter. Until it fails me, I will continue to run it. Thanks for the video!
Stabilizes well but is crappy fuel. Non ethanol 90 octane+ fuel and synthetic oil like Amsoil or Echo Red Armor. Works great for fleets. Every machine starts in the spring just fine.
I use aviation fuel (100LL) in all of my small engines. Right now it's about $7.00 per gallon here in the northern part of Houston, TX area. I think it's the best fuel you can buy for small engines.
Keep in mind that aviation fuel is "low lead" fuel, so it has about 2 grams tetraethyl lead per gallon in it, much lower amount than traditional "leaded" fuel, but still enough that you want to be sure you don't breathe the fumes or exhaust. The tetraethyl lead in the fuel is very very good for engines, though. Helps the piston rings and cylinder walls and top end stay lubricated.
The real question is, when you bring your wife’s plates back in after covering them in gasoline and lighting them on fire, is she going to throw a half cap full of each fuel on you to see the results?
Hey man! This is so true. In Europe we use motomix and aspen aswel. Is so much better for machinery and your health. In forestry they are actually obliged to use these fuels in forests when cutting trees!
I have been a small engine mechanic for about 25 years, I only run 93 octane with a Oz per gallon of seafoam. It's good up to six months. I use Tru fuel for long term storage. I use 93 not because of the compression of the engine, but because of the heat these small engines run at. I highly recommend using 93 in a chop saw, chain saw, because they run super hot. Just my experience
That high of a octane is completely pointless, you're just going to lose horsepower, you want the lowest octane e-free fuel that you can get away with without detonation and even with high compression ported chainsaws 87 is typically plenty. It's not the fuel you need to be concerned with when it comes to heat, it's the OIL
In some places like where I live, you can't even buy 93 octane. And the only ethanol free gas that is available here is an 86 octane. I buy that, mix it with oil (50:1) and hope for the best...
It would have been nice to see the premix oil, and mixed with 91+ no ethanol. Been running true fuel on a whacker and hi test no corn to 48:1 on the toys for years with no problem. Project farm would bring objective quality evidence to the table.
I was always told to run at least 92-94 octane fuel in high performance tools. Always ran it on motorcycles and chainsaws and never a problem. Great job breaking down and testing. Thank you
Great video. For what it's worth, I'm 50 yrs old and have been using klotz technoplate 2 stroke and the synthetic super technoplate 2 stroke oil mixed 65:1 with 100 percent hi octane gas and I've never blown an engine. My son put 3 years of hard racing, practice racing and lots of weekend trail riding on a big bore yz85. We tore it down after the end of the 3rd race season and you would not believe how clean everything was and the only sign of wear was on the rings but only on the exhaust side because cylinder tilts forward towards the exhaust. I ran the same fuel in my chainsaw and weedeater for almost 13 years without ever 1 issue. Never changed a spark plug, never had to clean out exhaust or anything. They ran awesome and did when I sold them due to the big D. Anyways I'm not the only one that can testify to how clean and well Klotz works but it is a very finicky oil if not mixed correctly. I started out at 40:1 and fouled plugs within the hour. I kept going up in 05:1 increments until I got to the 65:1 ratio that didn't have issues. At 60:1 we could race a month then it would foul a plug. Thought I'd share that with you
After my first carb rebuild on my Stihl FS65 trimmer 15 years ago I started using the Stihl fuel. Never had a problem since. Also use the Aspen when I can find it for all my small engines.
Hello Stan... interesting video . A couple things to add....if you notice... majority of these fuels come in a metal container....this is a critical point....gasoline stored in plastic cans lose octane substantially over a short time... especially if the can is in the sun . Another thing to consider...most people buy the lowest octane gas...price being a factor as well....here's what people do wrong....the higher the octane rating....the cooler the engine runs...most people believe the opposite...thinking higher octane runs hotter . Another thing to point out...oil actually increases octane levels to a minor extent . As far as the fuels you mentioned....I couldn't justify $35 a gallon...or even the $23 for the other . Before I went to that extreme... I'd probably consider buying a drum of race fuel...and it would be cheaper and be better performing....and it's in a 55 gallon drum(metal) ...or you could experiment with the 5 gallon cans . Years back we used Sunoco 116 race fuel in the race quads and race car...I had to blend the quads fuel with pump gas....you could run a race and the exhaust pipes on the banshee were cool enough to put your hands on them within a minute . The only other thing to consider would be the additives to put in your pump gas that protects from the ethanol and varnish...the one from Lucas works well . Take these thoughts with a grain of salt . I've been a mechanic since 86.. semi's..cars..trucks..quads..you name it....I've had little to no issues with fuel...I just follow what I find works for me...good luck with your fuels
Chris you suggesting to buy race fuel with high octane in 55 gal an mix just for my 2 stroke stuff in metal cans an it will run my engine cooler? If so I will .. thank you.
Great video. Our Fire Department started using engineered fuel 5 years ago with great success. Before we used our own mix.and had troubles starting our saws. Old fuel was our problem. We now have near O problems.
@@Dirtmonkey did you seriously say "awesome sauce"??? You might want to try responding to the guy in your comments that actually has a scientific degree in the field your pretending to know something about so you can be properly educated on this subject and stop ruining your wife's good dinner plates. 🙄🤦🏽
In the UK most machinery dealerships are now using ASPEN as their default fuel to replace the stale unleaded fuel in machinery. The dealership I work at does this to every machine that is serviced or has a fuel issues and we have noticed that the storage shed we place the completed mowers doesn't have that smell you usually smell when machines are full of regular pump fuel. You also notice that if someone has been using Alkalyte fuels in a new mower that the carbon deposits around the exhaust are virtually non existent, compared with a similar age machine running on regular pump fuel.
Great video. Never heard of the alkylate fuels. Also, I will say that made me nervous when you light plates so close to gas can with no cap in place. Notice when you light plate number 1and it jumps to plate number 2, and possibly even on 7 & 8, which is in the vicinity of the open gas can. Anyways, just a safety observation if you ever run this test again, provide more space between plates and fuel containers. I've never used the engineered fuel and have always mixed my own, but those have me re-thinking. Especially with the shelf life! Thanks for sharing 👍
I appreciate the time and effort you put in to the testing. I wished i would known this years ago before i destroyed several weed eaters. Just converted to battery operated this year
Never buy a used 2stroke anything that has been used on a construction site. Other than straight gasoline, the quickest way to kill that 2 stroke is not letting the engine warm up before loading down the engine. Once it runs with out the choke, it's full throttle and get it done.
As much cord wood that I produce in a year, I'd go broke spending $5-$8 per quart of gas. Plus, throwing away all those single-use metal cans seem like such a waste. I always used 91 pump gas with a quality T2 pre-mix oil. My chainsaws are 10+ years old and most of them still running on their original piston and ring(s).
That's what I was thinking too! How hard is it to mix 8 ounces of oil into 2.5gal of Non-Ethanol premium Gasoline? I could buy another Chainsaw, literally, each season.
It took me 6 months as a full-time OPE service tech to figure it out back in the day. This was back when the ethanol blends were coming out; everyones carburetor & fuel system was failing due to "sugar and water". The government does not want "clean fuel/pure-fuel" for general public use.
Yes ethanol free gas pump stations are few and far between.Not worth traveling 75 miles for.I use true fuel mix or just the ethanol free stuff at home chemo for 20 dollars a gallon and add amsoil 50:1 mix.Good questions today.
Open burning WILL result in NOVEL compounds. It is not merely the residue from the liquids. Allowing evaporation to perform the removal of the volatiles would seem to be MOST appropriate.
You should do a test where you leave some of each fuel out to evaporate and show how much varnish is left. The pump gas looks pretty clean in this test, but it should have the most varnish after it dries, which is what gums up the carburators.
Battery powered is nice while it's working but when it breaks after a few years like a cell phone, solar power or battery powered tools. It's usually cheaper to upgrade to something that lasts longer with battery powered and more modern with newer technology then to repair it or replace the battery. I just can't see buying a battery powered lawn mower when I can convert my 4-stroke gasoline powered lawn mower over to propane is the way I want to go. On my small 4 stroke engines I've converted them to dual fuel and tri-fuel which I only run propane in them. Once you go to propane you won't go back to liquid fuels. I'm off grid and propane is the real prepper fuel that lasts the longest. Propane is so clean you can cook your food on it like a gas grill. I could let my generator sit for years and come back at any time and fire it up on propane. The last time I checked propane was $2.00 a gallon in my area that's far less than almost $4.22 a gallon for 87 octane ethanol fuel. From what I've experienced with my hybrid gasoline 4-stroke 3 horsepower bicycle using cheap ethanol fuel it's not as throttle responsive as ethanol free fuel. And with only three horsepower and a single speed with no gears to pull a hill you need that little extra power the ethanol free fuel provides.
Ive been in lawn care for 20 years and i have never drained the tanks on my equipment and never had an issue. I always run my 2cycle mix completely out before i refill the jug. I just used gas that was in a can for 2 years and the mower ran perfect so..... Anyway good video.
What zip code are you near? It makes a bit of a difference. What I can get away with in Jacksonville FL is wildly different than what I can get away with in Albuquerque, vs what I can get away with in Bangor Maine. Short is. Know your fuel. (just like know your holes). And know your kit. @stan was that pump gas raw? Or 10% etOH ? If so, ethanol will burn cleaner out the gate, but quickly kills for other reasons. If you redo this test, and you should, let the plates cool and then wipe each one off with a white coffee filter and store on a metal tray. Stick those in a freezer. Then look at them next day and burn them after feeling them by hand. That will tell you the full story.
My takeaway from this -- Run pump gas/oil mix in a chainsaw during the primary cutting season, then switch to the Aspen 2 for the off-season. Don't throw money away on canned gas when you're running the saw on a weekly basis. But if the saw might be sitting for months until a hurricane blows up, keep it topped off with a good canned gas.
@@ryanwilkinson571 Dude, your one of the biggest trolls I’ve seen on here in awhile. You must be one of those troubled neighbors that cause problems we’ve heard and seen on one of these videos. Smh
YOUR MISSING THE HOLD PART OF FUEL FOR 2 & 4 CYCLE ENGINES, IT'S ALSO A LUBRICANT FOR LUBERTICITY.. WITHOUT LUBERTICITY THE ENGINES WILL RUN DRY, HEAT UP AND BURN UP.... LUBERTICITY WILL CAUSE SOOT. THE QUALITY AND AMOUNT OF THE LUBRICANT WILL RELATE TO THE SOOT. JUST OFF THE CUFF, LOOK AT DIESEL ENGINES, SOOT IS THEIR LUBRICANT.
So doesn’t this negate a lot of the thermodynamics of an engine? Like you were burning this in the presence oxygen, but no where near the pressure inside a cylinder. Different fuels will have different abilities to reach complete combustion, based on which kind of engine they’re designed for. I’m not sure that the soot what you’re showing us here directly translates into something to be concerned about. Thanks for the video regardless.
I thought the same thing. An open flame has to burn cooler than fuel in an internal combustion, which is 2800F on average. When he started this demonstration, I thought - what does this guy know about chemistry and thermodynamics? I'm not an expert but I do have a science background and many things are very counterintuitive unless you have some basic understanding of a particular field. I wouldn't be surprised if this comparison was done under the same conditions as an internal combustion that the results could be totally different.
Everything you said is true. But for someone who does not have high dollar test equipment, this is a good and fair test. If one fuel leaves more soot when burned on a plate in the open than another fuel burned on a plate in the open, then it will do the same thing in a running engine.
@@CarswithNash pure oxygen doesn't need acetylene to burn clean, infact it's more explosive with out the acetylene to the point smokers in hospital always end up getting 3rd degree or worse burns while trying to get their fix and having the oxy breathing bottle on and it's not uncommon for them to set the places they are at on fire or blow themselves up. now you know the acetylene is there to control the oxygens rate of burn by dirtying it up just like the fuel additives in canned fuel. you don't need fuel at all if you burn pure oxygen, but then pure oxygen urns like a bomb, and not a controllable fire. #1 grade kerosene is jet fuel, specifically because it burns slower allowing more heating to take place and a jet engine is about 1100º-1350º depending upon idle and full power. you should see the new stealth fighter jets fuels, they have to be super cooled ;)
Project Farm did a UA-cam on 2 cycle oil that's worth watching. Up here in Alberta we have the Aspen's and such but their absurdly expensive. For the past 5 years I.ve been using the Petrocanada Ultra 94 octane and adding the Amsoil 2 cycle oil. It's been working great but we do drain our summer equipment. I had read that the alcohols (Methanol, and Ethanol) were not great for small engines so use "hi Test" fuel as a result. As well we make up just 6 months supply at a time. Serious savings to cost and mechanic has noticed reduced frequency of shop visits. Just sayin'
Where I live in BC the only fuel available here that is ethanol free is Chevron 94. Be careful, just because the octane is higher at the pump does not mean it's ethanol free.
I run 100LL aviation fuel (100 octane low lead) with all carbureted engines. It has a 3 year shelf life and is wonderful. I mix my own 2 stroke with the 100LL and never have carb issues. I like the idea of engineered but will stick with the known... and av gas is still only $6.75/gal where I'm at in AZ. Just be sure to NOT use av gas in anything with catalytic converter.
the main reason why I got Aspen 2 stroke in the 5 liter containers at home for my chainsaw and trimmer... because I can store it for longer than other things and it burns cleaner... always funny how clean other chainsaws get after running this stuff for like two or three weeks after being run on homemade mix... how much residue is actually being removed by switching fuel... sure it does not clean it totally but it helps to get it perform better (and even when it isn't meant to clean the enginge, it helps remove a lot of crap inside) by the way at first Husqvarna promoted the use of Aspen 2 and 4 stroke in Austria and Germany for several years before they switched over to their own fuel a few years back... kinda weird that they did that but hey... marketing... you never know why they do things and not sure if the US-husqvarna fuel is the same as in Austria but I am happy that our company still sells Aspen
I can’t help but think that the cost of those cans versus the savings you would have pre-mixing it yourself would be enough that you could buy several pieces of equipment at the end of the year. From what you said the cost was per quart that is a $20-$30 a gallon savings premix it yourself. At the rate of the fuel that you probably use that’s a big difference at the end of the year. And no dirtier than the plate was from pre mixing it yourself I don’t think it causes that much problem with the engine. At the end of the year when you get ready to store it then use the premixed cans a couple of times before you put them up
Legit, exactly what I do. At the start and end of the season I use TruFuel or Husqvarna premixed and mix myself with Echo Red Armor oil throughout the season. Make sure to keep the equipment clean every few weeks and change plugs when need, I've had exactly zero issues with any of my equipment over the past 5 seasons.
No its doesnt save you premixing. If you listened he bought Aspen in 55gallon deums. And the possibility of there being a no start or non operating tool is worth buying the engennered. Maybe 200 to 400 a hour for a crew being shutdown.
As a chemical engineer, this “test” makes me die inside a bit. That are too many reasons to cover in a simple message about why this test is not representative of how fuel burns in an engine, sorry.
Its a simple test with simple results. Here is another simple test for you. Try shutting the F up with negative horse schit and feel the difference ;^)
@@wllwll-zh7ig Paul Harrison is correct. And his comment was not disrespectful, only your response. Which tells more about your shortfalls than his. Regardless, how would you feel if non-professionals made honest, but erroneous comments about how you're pumping out portable toilets? This test is not accomplished under actual conditions for which the fuel is designed. It is in no way representative of how a fuel performs under a mixture of entirely different environmental conditions including temperature, compression, air-fuel mixture, pressure and loads. In addition, the engine design, proper maintenance and more will cause a variance in reactions. Sometimes we scientist, engineers, chemists and other experts may know more about things they've studied and worked with for years.
thats why I only mix my mixed gas a gallon at a time in a small safety can if I need more I can pour a gallon of regular fuel into the gallon container it keeps things simple
A 2 stroke needs the lubricants left behind to lubricate the motor so if I see a clean plate I see a burnt head or piston or valve. I run 2 jet skis from the 90’s they need there lubricant.
I think the cost of those fuels simply out way the cost of most equipment. Pus those are designed to leave behind unburnt lube or oil. What needs to be done is an evaluation like Project Farm does by measuring the lubrication of the oil left behind, that's what matters the most. As for the gas cans refill issue, that could easy be solved by multiple gas cans. A simple trick to get rid of ethanol in gas is to pour about 10 percent water in the can. Shake the can then let it settle 3 to 4 hours. Ethanol is water soluble and since water is also not readily soluble in gas, the water mixture at the bottom can be syphoned out. It's best to use a clear jug with a clear tube in the cap with a simple shutoff value. Tip the jug over with cap and tube at the bottom, open the value until the water is gone then quickly shut it off. It's stupidly easy.
that is very interesting, will have to see how much tome that takes that I dont have. More cost productive to put the righ fuel in the hands of people who dont thin k for a living and just there to get the job done
Tim great way to generate ethanol fuel but the ethanol is a octane booster so you need to add an octane booster to your self made ethanol free fuel or you will not generate the power of the original octane level prior to removing the ethanol. Luckily in Canada we can still easily purchase no ethanol fuel but now only at 91 Octane. Whenever we do carb cleanings on customers equipment at Eliminator Performance we test the fuel and if it has any ethanol or looks or smells degraded we drain it off and install our 91 Octane no ethanol fuel with K100S+ stabilizer made in the USA. We sell lots of the alkylate fuels to our customers for end of the season storage which actually has cut down on our annual service and repairs because this equipment starts right up, but in the long run has generated more customers from word of mouth advertising.
@@littlejackalo5326 Like Stanley says it stops him from buying a $1k concrete saw annually and it is a great product to use for end of the season storage you only need one can or a half a can.
Although I'm not a professional landscaper, groundsman, garden maintenance guy, I do look after my own large gardens with 2 stroke and 4 stroke powered equipment, and never have problems with starting, running or durability. My 2 stroke powered rotary lawnmower was bought new 17 years ago and still starts 1st or 2nd pull, even after winter, and has never even had a new plug! My Honda 4 stroke rotary mower was bought new 37 years ago and is the same, starts 1st or 2nd pull, and is still on the same plug! My strimmer, same. I do maintain all of it properly, check plugs, filters, change oil, keep engines clean, etc. Fuel wise, I keep it in bulk cans with fuel stabiliser added, I mix 2 stroke by measuring fuel into a separate can and mxing with the measured amount of oil, I never top up cans to cause inaccurate mixes. I also have 4 and 2 stroke motorcycles and have no issues with them either, no fouled plugs, no excessive carbon build up etc. Fuel chemistry is super complex and this test was too crude and simplistic to take with any credibility.
@@Dirtmonkey Well it's not difficult and it pays dividends by virtue of the equipment being reliable and lasting many years. I do realise that pro's are on a tight schedule though, and not always having the time for servicing.
That is quite the difference in the amount of dirt left behind after combustion of the fuel. If you're going through a concrete saw every season, it wouldn't take long to pay off the cost of the Aspen fuels.
People that buy it by the quart has absolutely lost their mind for paying that kind of price anyway. Buy good synthetic oil I personally run Amsoil and I love it and non-ethanol fuel and stabilizer it's the same exact thing and it won't go bad over winter and a heck of a lot cheaper
Love this video best on UA-cam truly beleive this is the best on the market for the price of all my pro Stihl equipment I don’t trust anything else but MotoMix and Stihl Moto4 when it’s not available at my dealer I go with Aspen thank you for everything this post is truly amazing
Hey Stanley, just wondering since you didn’t mention it at all in the video. But in two stroke fuels whether pre mixed or engineered there is always oil or other lubricant added because two strokes don’t have an oiling system. The lubrication for all of the bearings and piston in cylinder comes from the left over residue of the oil once the fuel is burnt away. I agree fully that pump fuel goes bad way to fast and it is great that the engineered fuels have longer shelf life’s but two strokes are not a “clean burning engine” I’d like to see a deeper video on the effects to the fuel under high pressure combustion situations versus atmospheric pressure burning on a plate. Because the more or less soot on a plate could come from the different recipes these companies use for there fuels and type of lubricant. Could be synthetic lubricant vs dinosaur bone lubricants leaving more or less soot. So to a guy that wants his engines to last, high octane fuel and a good 2stroke oil for mixing can still ensure enough lubricant for a long life. Loved the test you came up with tho, keep up the good videos.
While watching the video, I was wondering if the left over residue was really a negative thing for 2-strokes. I don't agree with the high octane fuel part, but this comment should be higher. In my area, we use high octane in small engines, not because of it being high octane, but rather it is usually ethanol free.
Run a few tank fulls in a push mower and pull the heads after each fuel type. Compare then clean heads and redo next fuel. Might give better comparison. I personally just use regular gas with stabil added. And ethanol free premium for last tank full before winter storage.
I always use pump gas 87 or 93 octane. With 2-cycle mix. When i was mowing 30 yards a week i bought a new stihl commercial back back blower. It took 15 years of commercial use for me to wear it out! I ordered a upper end engine rebuild kit and am using it today with the old original lower end of the engine doing great! Its semi-retired to consumer use @ my house now.
@projectfarm doesn't do shill videos like this, granted i didnt think dirtmonkey did either till now. He definitely doesn't lite gasoline next to gas cans....
I use premium from the pump on my Husqvarna since 1998. I changed the spark plug last week, for the first time, and looked into the cylinder at the piston. It was perfectly clean with no carbon build up or any staining.
Always great content Stan. Although I do disagree with your findings, I prefer to look at the bright side of this topic. That is if the head potato in charge keeps screwing with the gas prices any longer, it will be more cost effective to fill up my truck at Wal-Mart in the TruFuel aisle.
Aussie here, thanks for making this video, I've never had anyone ever inform me of this, I love our Bunnings here in Australia, their great but until your video I never knew there were pre-mixed versions of fuels.
I bought two one gallon cans of the true fuel at home depot after hurricane Michael here in Florida. I used one and a half gallons cutting up trees. Now let me remind you that Michael hit us in 2018. I just pulled out the chainsaw two weeks ago, that had gas in it from 2018, three pulls on my pullan pro, and it fired right up so I could cut a railroad tie in half for the neighbor. It's been in there for almost four years. Never used the product before hurricane Michael. New 18" saw, two gallons of tru-fuel and two quarts of bar oil. I am just now finishing up the rest of the tru-fuel in my new echo 225 without any problems. But, if you have a better suggestion on what would be a better fuel to use, I'm open to suggestions if it would extend the life of the engine and not burn up the piston from lack of lubrication.
I have 2 Husqvarna chainsaws. A 440 and a 435 I bought a year ago. Plus an older Echo leaf blower. I have been using pump gas (premium) with Stabil in it. I just went through cleaning the carb on all three because nothing would start. Actually the blower would start but would barely run above idol. So I went and bought a couple gallons of True Fuel to avoid more problems. Now I'm thinking about taking back the unused can and buying Stihl fuel since it is available where I live. I'm just not sure if Stanley's experiment is grounds for me to do this.
@@dangrimes5078,I wasn't trying to get anyone to buy true fuel, I was just explaining my experience with it after getting hit on October 10th 2018 by a category 5 hurricane Michael. For me it was a need being that the power was out for the majority of the county. It was easier for me to pick up some 50-1 fuel and bar oil for my new chainsaw while they had some in stock at the local home depot.
@@bobbywills9487 I understand but you know I found another channel that tested the different fuels and they also found the Stihl to be the cleanest. Maybe Stihl is best but when a gas clogs up the carberator we aren't even talking about the way it burns right? That's what has me confused. My problem isn't carbon on the piston or exhaust Port. The carberator gets gummed up. I just assumed it was from the ethenol (excuse my spelling, I know it's terrible)
Hay Stan actually the Aspen only come in a 1.3 gallon jug and it $27 from that same place Russo they don't sell 1 gallon jugs or by the case but do ship but do ship 1 case 12 - 1 Quart bottles for $68 + Shipping $40 also and STIHL MotoMix is $35 per gallon
Great Vid! I drive an extra 20mins to get ethanol free gas for my cars and toys. Ethanol will destroy your engine over time. My 5.4-2V has over 300K miles and runs better than my friends newer trucks and I believe it's cause I run better gas. I do pay a higher price, but I have less repairs
Very interesting! Thanks for posting this. Two things to consider for taking it to the next level: - 2-stroke fuel is designed to leave behind some lubrication. Could it be that each brand has some variation in the residual lubricant and/or the appearance of it? - How does stoichiometry affect the test result?
great observation, but as previously stated, open burning and compression burning with the same fuels in each scenario will have wildly different results... and like you said, Project Farms testing involves running the fuels/oils/STUFF and breaking down the heads off the tools to compare internals... 'freeburn' fuels usually develops soot through incomplete combustion..... excellent primary demonstration to compare the various fuels in an apples to apples test. Did you notice any clouds or rather smoke vapors in the garage? Couldnt actually see anything but you were focused on the plates/flames rather than the open air... as like you said again, the gentlemen didnt have bloodshot eyes and the funk commonly associated with running oil/fuel mixes
So can I use the Aspen-4 or Aspen-2 in my generator? It's hurricane season here in Florida. And if I can, than I can leave fueled up for the hole season till November.
I think the most important part is left out... Your health. And this is where Aspen and similar fuels shine. The emisions, which you inhale all day long running your chainsaw, trimmer etc, are much much less harmfull to your health.
Hi from uk. I only use Aspen 2 in saws and trimmers etc. Never any starting or running problems. Do a few repairs etc for folk and clean tanks then refill with aspen2. Always run and cut timber before returning, always fine. A first class video 👍 and a bew subscriber from across the pond
awesome vid was always curious about the preservatives in the engineered fuels and what that caused to engines... keep up the solid work! oh ya LET's GO BRANDON I mean project farm
Polish here. This is the first time I see those ready-to-use fuels. Everyone always uses the standard unleaded 95 mixed with oil. I've had one lawnmower for over 15 years and it still runs great (Briggs & Stratton engine, can't remember which one. Of course I did a lot of maintenance to keep it that way). So I am very confused after watching this video. I've also never had problems with pre-mixed fuel going out of use and it nearly always stays over winter. Also, Project Farm is a great channel!
I found an old lawn mower in a dumpster with a briggs engine. Used it every year for 20 years. The only maint I did was add drain oil to the crankcase every time I used it (it burnt some oil). I never changed oil. The engine stopped working one day after 20 years so I threw it all in the trash.
50:1 mix at $35 a gallon ain’t cheap. I’ve been using Lucas and TrueFuel from HD so what you say makes sense. I’m wondering what the typical string trimmer would look like after a season of pump fuel vs Aspen (Stihl) vs Lucas. In California we have pump fuel with 10% ethanol which destroys carbs. Btw - you are using caps from different manufacturers should measure by a measuring vials 🧪 does aspen make the fuel for Stihl? 🙉
I am so much more confused after reading those comments... (copy-pasta of my comment) "Polish here. This is the first time I see those ready-to-use fuels. Everyone always uses the standard unleaded 95 mixed with oil. I've had one lawnmower for over 15 years and it still runs great (Briggs & Stratton engine, can't remember which one. Of course I did a lot of maintenance to keep it that way). So I am very confused after watching this video. I've also never had problems with pre-mixed fuel going out of use and it nearly always stays over winter. Also, Project Farm is a great channel!"
@@NimbleBard48 a Honda or Toro lawnmower is a different beast than a Stihl or Echo string trimmer. I let unused pump gas sit in my Honda generator and it gummed up the carburetor to the point it was a rough idle. I ran some fuel additive and then switched to TruFuel 4 cycle engineered fuel. Trouble gone. Here’s the game changer. My stihl FS-90 I do little to none maintenance and leave the gas in there. I might start it up after a few months. It’s never been to the shop and other than spark plug and filter I don’t do much. So basically your paying more for the engineered fuels for the convenience of zero maintenance and a visit to the lawnmower repair shop. So yah you can run pre-mix pump fuel and then toss the Ryobi string trimmer out in 3-5 years or pay more and not get burdened with maintenance. In California our gas is 10% ethanol junk, so I don’t have a choice for the occasional use to run pump gas mix ⛽️. Hope that helps.
Really like the video 👍🏻. Very informative with the visual ⛽️ carbon substances left on the plates 🍽️. Wish you guys would’ve have done the test/demonstration outside on a day with NO wind. Safety and ventilation is paramount.
Video nice video Stan ❤️👍 You mentioned your guys top off two stroke mix? I would never allow that. Way too much room for mistakes. I always empty my two-stroke gas can mix and then start on another one. Keep up the good work.
Hey Stan good video. I have very good luck with aviation fuel. Lasts 2-3 years in the planes. Getting 55 gallon drum and premixing might be a little cheap than the Aspen fuel.
@@Dirtmonkey not alot of us coan go by a 55gallon drum of aviation fuel but knowing which premix that serves better in the equipment, us weekend warriors, first repsonders or occasional volunteers that help in tornados or hurricane clean up, we can keep a few gallons on hand at $22 and not kill us on price.
I used to clean the screen inside my carburetor on my trimmer at the beginning of every season. Since I started buying that cheap box house brand no more trouble like that. Not doing this for a living that's a win in my book.
I guess we have just got lucky at work but we just use pump gas and mix our own we have 3 stihls and 1 husky and the ts350 the original saw we had still runs great never touched carb or engine. Maybe because they are used almost everyday?
This isnt actually indicative of how those fuels will actually burn in an engine. They're not under elevated pressures or temps burning on those plates. They will without a doubt burn differently in an engine. I'm sure fuel makers arent optimizing fuel to burn on a plate instead of in an engines conditions. Your test completely ignores the reid vapor pressure as well as other fuel based parameters...
I tried to tell him and he got offended, this test has no scientific value whatsoever, it means nothing, not only that the guys lucky he didn't catch his garage on fire, also I told him this is the kind of fake science is what the anti petroleum people use to convince the public how bad gasoline engines are
still gives you a pretty common sense idea. pump gas for the price is way more logical to use then $8 a. quart. at the end of the season I always take the plug out soak with carburetor cleaner or kerosene. decarbonize everything. put a light oil back in. clean the muffler screen and voila. good to go.
I had the worst experience with the trufuel. Put it in my hedge trimmer and thought it was something great. It ran great. Two weeks later went back out to try to start them and nothing. I pulled and pulled and got ticked off thinking it was my hedge trimmer. It was like it had no fire at all. I checked the spark plug and I even thought it was the kill switch maybe. Wound up throwing them across the yard after incessantly trying to start them then it hit me…. Dump out the trufuel and fill it back up with the non-ethanol mix. It fired right up. Never again will I buy anything pre made.
I have always put the little bit of left over 2 cycle into a large fuel tank on a piece of 4 cycle equipment or just into the larger 4 cycle gas can, that minimal oil mixed with multiple gallons of fuel won't hurt a bit and ensures proper ratio of 2 cycle in the can
hi stan i have bben watching alot of your videos over the past few years im based in australia, so things are a bit different here, but i also watch alot of videos on project farm and some of his experiments might come in handy and he sends samples to labs, uses a mower with a see through combustion chamber and many other tests, if exploring this stuff is a direction you want to go then maybe a collab , or you can watch his test videos and see if they apply to your needs, great video have a great week, from australia
Back in 1996 or 7, a mechanic, Steve Gerline, had a call in radio show on 550 AM in San Antonio, TX. During a show, an old small engine mechanic called in. He was retiring after 50+ years in business. He said if you use premium fuel in your power/yard equipment, you’ll never need his services. He also said the most important fuel tank fill up is BEFORE you put it away. He said fill the tank COMPLETELY! The lack of airspace helps keep the fuel fresher. Since then, I’ve never had a carb/fuel problem . I also don’t use any additives nor do I drain the tank in the off season.
In any vehicle the less RPM's you turn the more fuel mileage you get. In my 9200 pound stock diesel manual transmission truck. These are actual fuel tests measured down to the teaspoon of fuel for accuracy. At around 42-44 miles per hour. I get 42.5 miles to the gallon with AC and cruise on. Around 70 mph with AC and cruise on I get 10 miles to the gallon. Testing with AC on and off didn't make much of a difference but slowing down made a huge impact on fuel economy and not stabbing the throttle. It seems why they went to automatic transmissions in most everything. they're cheaper to build, when they burn up they can sell you another vehicle, if you get an automatic too hot their toast, automatic transmissions burn more fuel shifting at higher RPMs than a manual transmission and automatics don't last as long as manual transmissions. Your best fuel economy in anything is around 10 to 16 mph wherever it it idles in neutral at is where the RPMs you want to go down the road for perfect fuel economy. Roughly I figured for every mile per hour over your idle speed you're burning about a half a mile to the gallon more fuel. Now what I'm about to tell you Don't try this at home because I'm a trained professional. I drift in gear in neutral, I shut the engine down and drift in neutral. But don't try this your steering can lock up and cause you to crash. Owning the same car in 1990 as of today with that car new from 1990 you're burning more fuel. Why because you're going faster miles per hour today than you were in 1990. Also for fuel economy I shut my motor off sitting at stop lights in the daytime not at night because it wears on the battery without the engine running. Also no jackrabbit starts this Burns additional Fuel and can make a dent in your fuel mileage and testing that I've done. Also my fuel test start with the engine off when filling up with fuel and putting fuel to the top of the fuel filler door for accuracy writing down the miles and calculating to the gallon for accuracy.
I think you ordering that Aspen fuel by the drum is a no brainer. %100 great idea. It doesn't take long to go through a gallon of premix with an operation like yours and having a drum full of it will pay off.
Hey hey stan, great video again, love everyone of your videos, always so informational, i got some great news to share with you, i passed my drivers test yesterday, it felt so good. I am now officially a licensed driver, they will have my hard license in the mail by the end of next week they say. So happy, another big milestone done. So stan, i am so ready for this Fourth of July weekend, its so great to see a country come together for the 250th anniversary of the independence of this great and powerful nation, i hope you and your family have a great time,a nd if you can, can you make a instagram post of whatever you end up doing, wether it be lighting fireworks or having. A great big bbq, i think it would be most cool. Have a great night stan, good bless and go get em, your pal and firend, Alexander costa, and god bless America
That's so awesome you passed your drivers test! Big things happening. I'll be up north with some family this weekend, I'm pretty stoked to get out of the city! I hope you have an awesome weekend and stay safe on the road out there buddy 👍
Ok I like this kid. God bless you young man. Please be careful out there at night on the 4th. The drunks will be everywhere. We would hate for something to happen to you.
Very interesting !!!! My closest friend of 35 years worked as a small engine mechanic for the local farmers coop here in east Tn .. stihl and huskvarna both sent him to school .. he has learned to use the Farmers Coop gas because its a 100% pure gas and always use stihl or huskvarna oil in the equipment .. if customers use the ethanol gas from the gas pump it voids the warranty .. ive had good luck using their gas … its a lil more expensive but for my 4 wheeler and off road vehicles that may sit for months at a time and i never have a oroblem out of them having fuel issues from sitting too long … i just thought id share my good luck with you !!!
💥 Let’s go Project Farm! 😁👍 I mix my own with premium fuel. I think it’s better than any others and I store my stuff with filled tanks. No issues. 🤷♂️ *Keep on tractoring!*
Exactly ! .. I use premium fuel for the additives in it and treat it with Sta-Bil 360 marine and/or Star-Tron. I never drain the tank “ I fill the fuel tank all the way” when stored to eliminate any additional air as ethanol is hygroscopic and Oxygen & Water is the catalyst that deteriorates fuel I have never had a problem with any stored fuel in my outdoor power equipment or my car when performing the above procedure.
Good test. The ultimate fuel additive is pri-g. Fuel will be good for two years. No so with stabil. Add one cap of dry gas to one gallon. good to go for the season. the best mix
I’ve been using Aspen 2 for a year and both my Stihl trimmer and back pack blower run so much better. Very noticeable at idle and full power. I get longer run times on each tank for the trimmer. Buying Aspen 4 for the lawn mower to help it sit through the winter.
I run moto mix in all the handheld equipment before the go into hibernation for the winter. Starts right up 1st pull come springtime. Didn’t know Aspen made a comparable product for much less. Ill be looking into it. Nice work Stan and DM force 💪🏻💪🏻
I live in twin cities area. and don't have those issues. I just use BP 93 octane have a tight lid on my can and don't keep gas more than 4 months. Also any equipment with a vented tank I don't keep alot of fuel in everything off gasses (my opinion) I just won't pay more than $4.00 a gal. for fuel. Good video.
I can honestly say... I've never seen anyone perform a test that included an open flame in close proximity to 10 canisters of highly flammable fuel, including open containers.
And in the garage, no less. 🤦🤦
Yeah...I was cringing like crazy...
😂😂🤣🤣🤣😂same thoughts here too
😂
..inside a wooden boat... ⛵ 🤔
It would be interesting to see the results in an actual running engine where where high pressure, higher temperatures and increased air flow could affect results.
Precisely. These tests were flawed (not to mention dangerous). He lit a puddle on a plate at atmospheric pressure, and room temperature. Yet in an engine, the fuel is pressurized, atomized, and heated way above room temperature.
@@LynxStarAuto cry more
I'm thinking that in a running engine, what's left on the plates would be burned as well. Not all 100%, but most of it. There would still be unburned deposits left, and this test does in some regard show which ones would leave more or less to the others. I agree with Stanley, looks like another Project Farm engine test!😆
We know the fuel gets into the cylinder and cause that explosion, you always see residue on the valves top of piston. So is he just showing a cleaner burn
@@LynxStarAuto there would be even more residue due to reduced oxygen. Open burn is basically a lean run in most lawn equipment.
Project Farm would run it in the engine and show the results of what it does on the insides. He's done that with all kinds of crazy fuel for his poor lawn mower.
That mower needs to go into a museum
I've been running the Aspen 2 in my saws daily falling trees for our logging operation. I mainly switched so I didn't have to breath in all that crap that's put in pump gas. I'm very happy with it and yes it is worth every penny for me to stay healthier. No more headaches from gas fumes.
Hey Stan, love the videos and I don't want to be a troll but... Alkaloid is a functional organic group including morphine, quine and many others, most are naturally occurring plant based molecules with a nitrogen group. Aspen fuels have alkylate, this is the family of molecules named for the refining process they go through. Three components in typical fuels are parafins, olifins and aromatics, single bonds, double bonds and closed rings respectively. All hydrocarbons no nitrogen. The specialty fuels are engineered for very specific properties like detonation, energy per volume, vapor pressure and many others. Way too complicated for a comment. Shoot me a message if you'd like to know more I used to work for one of those big oil companies that shut you out. Probably more marketing departments that didn't want "secrets" exposed rather than the fuel company hiding a bad product.
Right, and fuel buring in open air, without the proper AFR, I'm sure makes a huge difference 😀
This whole “experiment” was dumb af. From his non standardized cap measurements, to his turning the camera off to reburn the pump gas. He didn’t even realize the pump gas burned cleaner at first. Then the pump gas plate magically reappears with considerably more carbon on it and he doesn’t mention that he re burned it.. he had to insert that clip in of him “explaining” that pump gas plate when he realized how obv that was in editing.. I’m guessing that company gave him those 55g drums to do a video, which to no ones surprise he botched. “I’ve been researching this for 2 years” and you don’t know the difference between an alkaloid and the alkylate fuel you are promoting??? Gimme a break it should have taken you 2 days with any device connected to the internet to come up with an experiment like this.. but yea it probably does take him 2 years to do what a normal man can intellectually do in 2 days. Dudes a little slow.... Which made this video even funnier!
@@ryanwilkinson571 yeah right, guys a little slow hey? Guy runs 4 crews, has multiple successful businesses, owns or part owns 4 different properties from last count, started from nothing at a young age to now having 717k subscribes. Mean while your sitting in your mum's basement trolling people that get off their ass and have a go. Yeah he is no scientist but at least it started a conversation
@@ryanwilkinson571
So, do you work for VP? Seem to be a little sensitive about the results of the experiment for some reason.
@@oldtimefarmboy617 lol vp? I’m assuming that was one of the companies in the video?? No I don’t . it’s the lack of awareness/intelligence on dirt monkeys part that gets me!!
ADVICE: Ten plus bucks a quart is obscene. If you run through a lot, simply mix 5 gallons at a time, use the ethanol free premium option not for the octane, but because the refinery is aware that the expectation is that this gas perform better than regular. Use KLOTZ 2-stroke at 50:1. There are other really great synthetic 2-stroke oil options (Amsoil, Spectro, Yamalube, et.,al) but I've used mostly Klotz with zero trouble. Then transfer into smaller containers for jobsite use. Yes it's a hassle you'll have to deal with every month or so, but waaaay cheaper, and you empower yourself with the fate of your 2-stroke equipment.
Well, Stan, the only thing you could have done is measure the fuels with a hypodermic needle or, weighed them out on a triple beam scale. But, the visual was enough to convince me.
I agree with you. I would LOVE to see Project Farm do a comparison of these fuels. He's excellent at testing stuff.
Thanks for the education. 👍
I feel like Cylinder pressure, combustion temperatures, and O2 levels at burn rate play a factor.
I can only go off my experiences with Trufuel. Roughly 3 years ago I switched to Trufuel for all of my 2 stroke equipment (4). Since then, I've had ZERO issues with starting and sitting over winter. Until it fails me, I will continue to run it. Thanks for the video!
same with me. haven't replaced a carb or diaphragm since switch
Stabilizes well but is crappy fuel. Non ethanol 90 octane+ fuel and synthetic oil like Amsoil or Echo Red Armor. Works great for fleets. Every machine starts in the spring just fine.
I mix a 50:1 can with a 40:1 can to end up with 45:1 final ratio of Tru fuel, no problems!
@workingcountry1776 why is it crappy fuel?
How about trying out coleman fuel they use this in lamps and camp stoves. This is a clean burning fuel that the maker of my weed wacker recommends.
I use aviation fuel (100LL) in all of my small engines. Right now it's about $7.00 per gallon here in the northern part of Houston, TX area. I think it's the best fuel you can buy for small engines.
Keep in mind that aviation fuel is "low lead" fuel, so it has about 2 grams tetraethyl lead per gallon in it, much lower amount than traditional "leaded" fuel, but still enough that you want to be sure you don't breathe the fumes or exhaust. The tetraethyl lead in the fuel is very very good for engines, though. Helps the piston rings and cylinder walls and top end stay lubricated.
The real question is, when you bring your wife’s plates back in after covering them in gasoline and lighting them on fire, is she going to throw a half cap full of each fuel on you to see the results?
Or I can just hide them 🤷♂️ Lol
@@Dirtmonkey For the record Nikki loves Stanley and she will forgive him for this. Besides she knows she gets to buy new plates tomorrow!
how does it effect the bbq taste, Is it like what Louisiana calls blackened snapper
Ummm does Nikki know you borrowed her dishes for your test? 😂😂😂
🤣🤣🤣
Hey man! This is so true. In Europe we use motomix and aspen aswel. Is so much better for machinery and your health. In forestry they are actually obliged to use these fuels in forests when cutting trees!
I have been a small engine mechanic for about 25 years, I only run 93 octane with a Oz per gallon of seafoam. It's good up to six months. I use Tru fuel for long term storage. I use 93 not because of the compression of the engine, but because of the heat these small engines run at. I highly recommend using 93 in a chop saw, chain saw, because they run super hot. Just my experience
You mix seafoam instead of a 2-stroke oil?
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259. You add seafoam to the oil/gas mix for a 2 cycle
That high of a octane is completely pointless, you're just going to lose horsepower, you want the lowest octane e-free fuel that you can get away with without detonation and even with high compression ported chainsaws 87 is typically plenty. It's not the fuel you need to be concerned with when it comes to heat, it's the OIL
@@williamwallace962093 does really good at burning more carbon and reducing carbon buildup, but you are correct on heat.
In some places like where I live, you can't even buy 93 octane. And the only ethanol free gas that is available here is an 86 octane. I buy that, mix it with oil (50:1) and hope for the best...
It would have been nice to see the premix oil, and mixed with 91+ no ethanol. Been running true fuel on a whacker and hi test no corn to 48:1 on the toys for years with no problem. Project farm would bring objective quality evidence to the table.
Who carries alkaline fuel?
I was always told to run at least 92-94 octane fuel in high performance tools. Always ran it on motorcycles and chainsaws and never a problem. Great job breaking down and testing. Thank you
Good stuff!
Great video. For what it's worth, I'm 50 yrs old and have been using klotz technoplate 2 stroke and the synthetic super technoplate 2 stroke oil mixed 65:1 with 100 percent hi octane gas and I've never blown an engine. My son put 3 years of hard racing, practice racing and lots of weekend trail riding on a big bore yz85. We tore it down after the end of the 3rd race season and you would not believe how clean everything was and the only sign of wear was on the rings but only on the exhaust side because cylinder tilts forward towards the exhaust. I ran the same fuel in my chainsaw and weedeater for almost 13 years without ever 1 issue. Never changed a spark plug, never had to clean out exhaust or anything. They ran awesome and did when I sold them due to the big D. Anyways I'm not the only one that can testify to how clean and well Klotz works but it is a very finicky oil if not mixed correctly. I started out at 40:1 and fouled plugs within the hour. I kept going up in 05:1 increments until I got to the 65:1 ratio that didn't have issues. At 60:1 we could race a month then it would foul a plug. Thought I'd share that with you
After my first carb rebuild on my Stihl FS65 trimmer 15 years ago I started using the Stihl fuel. Never had a problem since. Also use the Aspen when I can find it for all my small engines.
Niiice 👍
Hello Stan... interesting video . A couple things to add....if you notice... majority of these fuels come in a metal container....this is a critical point....gasoline stored in plastic cans lose octane substantially over a short time... especially if the can is in the sun . Another thing to consider...most people buy the lowest octane gas...price being a factor as well....here's what people do wrong....the higher the octane rating....the cooler the engine runs...most people believe the opposite...thinking higher octane runs hotter . Another thing to point out...oil actually increases octane levels to a minor extent .
As far as the fuels you mentioned....I couldn't justify $35 a gallon...or even the $23 for the other . Before I went to that extreme... I'd probably consider buying a drum of race fuel...and it would be cheaper and be better performing....and it's in a 55 gallon drum(metal) ...or you could experiment with the 5 gallon cans . Years back we used Sunoco 116 race fuel in the race quads and race car...I had to blend the quads fuel with pump gas....you could run a race and the exhaust pipes on the banshee were cool enough to put your hands on them within a minute . The only other thing to consider would be the additives to put in your pump gas that protects from the ethanol and varnish...the one from Lucas works well . Take these thoughts with a grain of salt . I've been a mechanic since 86.. semi's..cars..trucks..quads..you name it....I've had little to no issues with fuel...I just follow what I find works for me...good luck with your fuels
wow...wow...wow..wow...wowo... Car...Dog....cat...bear......lion
Chris you suggesting to buy race fuel with high octane in 55 gal an mix just for my 2 stroke stuff in metal cans an it will run my engine cooler? If so I will .. thank you.
Great video. Our Fire Department started using engineered fuel 5 years ago with great success. Before we used our own mix.and had troubles starting our saws. Old fuel was our problem. We now have near O problems.
Awesome sauce
@@Dirtmonkey did you seriously say "awesome sauce"??? You might want to try responding to the guy in your comments that actually has a scientific degree in the field your pretending to know something about so you can be properly educated on this subject and stop ruining your wife's good dinner plates. 🙄🤦🏽
In the UK most machinery dealerships are now using ASPEN as their default fuel to replace the stale unleaded fuel in machinery. The dealership I work at does this to every machine that is serviced or has a fuel issues and we have noticed that the storage shed we place the completed mowers doesn't have that smell you usually smell when machines are full of regular pump fuel. You also notice that if someone has been using Alkalyte fuels in a new mower that the carbon deposits around the exhaust are virtually non existent, compared with a similar age machine running on regular pump fuel.
Great video. Never heard of the alkylate fuels.
Also, I will say that made me nervous when you light plates so close to gas can with no cap in place. Notice when you light plate number 1and it jumps to plate number 2, and possibly even on 7 & 8, which is in the vicinity of the open gas can. Anyways, just a safety observation if you ever run this test again, provide more space between plates and fuel containers.
I've never used the engineered fuel and have always mixed my own, but those have me re-thinking. Especially with the shelf life! Thanks for sharing 👍
I appreciate the time and effort you put in to the testing. I wished i would known this years ago before i destroyed several weed eaters. Just converted to battery operated this year
Never buy a used 2stroke anything that has been used on a construction site. Other than straight gasoline, the quickest way to kill that 2 stroke is not letting the engine warm up before loading down the engine. Once it runs with out the choke, it's full throttle and get it done.
As much cord wood that I produce in a year, I'd go broke spending $5-$8 per quart of gas. Plus, throwing away all those single-use metal cans seem like such a waste. I always used 91 pump gas with a quality T2 pre-mix oil. My chainsaws are 10+ years old and most of them still running on their original piston and ring(s).
That's what I was thinking too! How hard is it to mix 8 ounces of oil into 2.5gal of Non-Ethanol premium Gasoline? I could buy another Chainsaw, literally, each season.
@@robmack151 where do you find non ethanol gas out of a pump?
@@shaunkelly9053 there's an app for that lol. Just depends in your location.
@@kernelbadness I’m in California.
@@shaunkelly9053 oh sorry for that
It took me 6 months as a full-time OPE service tech to figure it out back in the day. This was back when the ethanol blends were coming out; everyones carburetor & fuel system was failing due to "sugar and water". The government does not want "clean fuel/pure-fuel" for general public use.
Yes ethanol free gas pump stations are few and far between.Not worth traveling 75 miles for.I use true fuel mix or just the ethanol free stuff at home chemo for 20 dollars a gallon and add amsoil 50:1 mix.Good questions today.
@@peterwill3699 there are tones of ethanol free gas stations in Wisconsin.
Open burning WILL result in NOVEL compounds. It is not merely the residue from the liquids. Allowing evaporation to perform the removal of the volatiles would seem to be MOST appropriate.
You should do a test where you leave some of each fuel out to evaporate and show how much varnish is left. The pump gas looks pretty clean in this test, but it should have the most varnish after it dries, which is what gums up the carburators.
Good idea
I was thinking that the blacker the plate was meant ther was more burned up varnish...No?
Battery powered is nice while it's working but when it breaks after a few years like a cell phone, solar power or battery powered tools. It's usually cheaper to upgrade to something that lasts longer with battery powered and more modern with newer technology then to repair it or replace the battery. I just can't see buying a battery powered lawn mower when I can convert my 4-stroke gasoline powered lawn mower over to propane is the way I want to go. On my small 4 stroke engines I've converted them to dual fuel and tri-fuel which I only run propane in them. Once you go to propane you won't go back to liquid fuels. I'm off grid and propane is the real prepper fuel that lasts the longest. Propane is so clean you can cook your food on it like a gas grill. I could let my generator sit for years and come back at any time and fire it up on propane. The last time I checked propane was $2.00 a gallon in my area that's far less than almost $4.22 a gallon for 87 octane ethanol fuel. From what I've experienced with my hybrid gasoline 4-stroke 3 horsepower bicycle using cheap ethanol fuel it's not as throttle responsive as ethanol free fuel. And with only three horsepower and a single speed with no gears to pull a hill you need that little extra power the ethanol free fuel provides.
Ive been in lawn care for 20 years and i have never drained the tanks on my equipment and never had an issue. I always run my 2cycle mix completely out before i refill the jug. I just used gas that was in a can for 2 years and the mower ran perfect so.....
Anyway good video.
Nice 👌
What zip code are you near? It makes a bit of a difference. What I can get away with in Jacksonville FL is wildly different than what I can get away with in Albuquerque, vs what I can get away with in Bangor Maine.
Short is. Know your fuel. (just like know your holes). And know your kit.
@stan was that pump gas raw? Or 10% etOH ? If so, ethanol will burn cleaner out the gate, but quickly kills for other reasons.
If you redo this test, and you should, let the plates cool and then wipe each one off with a white coffee filter and store on a metal tray. Stick those in a freezer. Then look at them next day and burn them after feeling them by hand.
That will tell you the full story.
I have ran 2strokes of all kinds, for decades....NEVER have I seen a demonstration like this. This explains and answers more than you know.
My takeaway from this -- Run pump gas/oil mix in a chainsaw during the primary cutting season, then switch to the Aspen 2 for the off-season.
Don't throw money away on canned gas when you're running the saw on a weekly basis. But if the saw might be sitting for months until a hurricane blows up, keep it topped off with a good canned gas.
Why not just stabilize your fuel?
My saws (quickie and chain saw) sit for months and years before I use them again and they run fine.
Well said 🙌
@@evictioncarpentry2628 According to Taryl over on Taryl fixes all, fuel stabilizers are snake oil.
@@Dirtmonkey WELL SAID??? Didn’t you just do 2 years of research which led you to “buy” 3 55 gallon drums @ 5x the price of pump gas????
@@ryanwilkinson571 Dude, your one of the biggest trolls I’ve seen on here in awhile. You must be one of those troubled neighbors that cause problems we’ve heard and seen on one of these videos. Smh
Saw a video from ‘Chicanic’ with small engine problems due to pre mix canned fuel. This video gives much more detail! Appreciate the eye opener!
Glad it helped!
Yeah she swears by the Red Armor !!
YOUR MISSING THE HOLD PART OF FUEL FOR 2 & 4 CYCLE ENGINES, IT'S ALSO A LUBRICANT FOR LUBERTICITY.. WITHOUT LUBERTICITY THE ENGINES WILL RUN DRY, HEAT UP AND BURN UP.... LUBERTICITY WILL CAUSE SOOT. THE QUALITY AND AMOUNT OF THE LUBRICANT WILL RELATE TO THE SOOT.
JUST OFF THE CUFF, LOOK AT DIESEL ENGINES, SOOT IS THEIR LUBRICANT.
why you yelling?
I'm in Washington state and I work as a small engine mechanic. We sell the aspen fuel at our shop. We always support aspen fuel no matter what.
So doesn’t this negate a lot of the thermodynamics of an engine? Like you were burning this in the presence oxygen, but no where near the pressure inside a cylinder. Different fuels will have different abilities to reach complete combustion, based on which kind of engine they’re designed for. I’m not sure that the soot what you’re showing us here directly translates into something to be concerned about. Thanks for the video regardless.
I thought the same thing. An open flame has to burn cooler than fuel in an internal combustion, which is 2800F on average. When he started this demonstration, I thought - what does this guy know about chemistry and thermodynamics? I'm not an expert but I do have a science background and many things are very counterintuitive unless you have some basic understanding of a particular field. I wouldn't be surprised if this comparison was done under the same conditions as an internal combustion that the results could be totally different.
Yeah it’s like an acetylene torch will smoke and make soot till you turn on the oxygen then it burns clean.
Everything you said is true. But for someone who does not have high dollar test equipment, this is a good and fair test. If one fuel leaves more soot when burned on a plate in the open than another fuel burned on a plate in the open, then it will do the same thing in a running engine.
@@CarswithNash pure oxygen doesn't need acetylene to burn clean, infact it's more explosive with out the acetylene to the point smokers in hospital always end up getting 3rd degree or worse burns while trying to get their fix and having the oxy breathing bottle on and it's not uncommon for them to set the places they are at on fire or blow themselves up. now you know the acetylene is there to control the oxygens rate of burn by dirtying it up just like the fuel additives in canned fuel. you don't need fuel at all if you burn pure oxygen, but then pure oxygen urns like a bomb, and not a controllable fire. #1 grade kerosene is jet fuel, specifically because it burns slower allowing more heating to take place and a jet engine is about 1100º-1350º depending upon idle and full power. you should see the new stealth fighter jets fuels, they have to be super cooled ;)
Yeah its not at all a stoichiometric ratio
Was there anyone standing by with a fire extinguisher? As a retired Fire Fighter, I was absolutely cringing.
Project Farm did a UA-cam on 2 cycle oil that's worth watching. Up here in Alberta we have the Aspen's and such but their absurdly expensive. For the past 5 years I.ve been using the Petrocanada Ultra 94 octane and adding the Amsoil 2 cycle oil. It's been working great but we do drain our summer equipment. I had read that the alcohols (Methanol, and Ethanol) were not great for small engines so use "hi Test" fuel as a result. As well we make up just 6 months supply at a time. Serious savings to cost and mechanic has noticed reduced frequency of shop visits.
Just sayin'
Where I live in BC the only fuel available here that is ethanol free is Chevron 94. Be careful, just because the octane is higher at the pump does not mean it's ethanol free.
I run 100LL aviation fuel (100 octane low lead) with all carbureted engines. It has a 3 year shelf life and is wonderful. I mix my own 2 stroke with the 100LL and never have carb issues. I like the idea of engineered but will stick with the known... and av gas is still only $6.75/gal where I'm at in AZ. Just be sure to NOT use av gas in anything with catalytic converter.
This is good info. I only run my own mix or Stihl fuel. I run the Stihl fuel right before the winter so I do not have to put stabile in the gas
a lot of people do that. smart
the main reason why I got Aspen 2 stroke in the 5 liter containers at home for my chainsaw and trimmer... because I can store it for longer than other things and it burns cleaner... always funny how clean other chainsaws get after running this stuff for like two or three weeks after being run on homemade mix... how much residue is actually being removed by switching fuel... sure it does not clean it totally but it helps to get it perform better (and even when it isn't meant to clean the enginge, it helps remove a lot of crap inside)
by the way at first Husqvarna promoted the use of Aspen 2 and 4 stroke in Austria and Germany for several years before they switched over to their own fuel a few years back... kinda weird that they did that but hey... marketing... you never know why they do things
and not sure if the US-husqvarna fuel is the same as in Austria but I am happy that our company still sells Aspen
I can’t help but think that the cost of those cans versus the savings you would have pre-mixing it yourself would be enough that you could buy several pieces of equipment at the end of the year. From what you said the cost was per quart that is a $20-$30 a gallon savings premix it yourself. At the rate of the fuel that you probably use that’s a big difference at the end of the year. And no dirtier than the plate was from pre mixing it yourself I don’t think it causes that much problem with the engine. At the end of the year when you get ready to store it then use the premixed cans a couple of times before you put them up
Legit, exactly what I do. At the start and end of the season I use TruFuel or Husqvarna premixed and mix myself with Echo Red Armor oil throughout the season. Make sure to keep the equipment clean every few weeks and change plugs when need, I've had exactly zero issues with any of my equipment over the past 5 seasons.
No its doesnt save you premixing.
If you listened he bought Aspen in 55gallon deums.
And the possibility of there being a no start or non operating tool is worth buying the engennered.
Maybe 200 to 400 a hour for a crew being shutdown.
As a chemical engineer, this “test” makes me die inside a bit. That are too many reasons to cover in a simple message about why this test is not representative of how fuel burns in an engine, sorry.
the worst part of this is that people will believe this, good info-bad info does not seem to matter anymore,
Ditto^
Its a simple test with simple results. Here is another simple test for you. Try shutting the F up with negative horse schit and feel the difference ;^)
@@wllwll-zh7ig it’s a meaningless test and people need to be aware of that. Your argument is compelling though, clearly you’re a man of science.
@@wllwll-zh7ig Paul Harrison is correct. And his comment was not disrespectful, only your response. Which tells more about your shortfalls than his. Regardless, how would you feel if non-professionals made honest, but erroneous comments about how you're pumping out portable toilets? This test is not accomplished under actual conditions for which the fuel is designed. It is in no way representative of how a fuel performs under a mixture of entirely different environmental conditions including temperature, compression, air-fuel mixture, pressure and loads. In addition, the engine design, proper maintenance and more will cause a variance in reactions. Sometimes we scientist, engineers, chemists and other experts may know more about things they've studied and worked with for years.
thats why I only mix my mixed gas a gallon at a time in a small safety can if I need more I can pour a gallon of regular fuel into the gallon container it keeps things simple
Simple is best 🙌
A 2 stroke needs the lubricants left behind to lubricate the motor so if I see a clean plate I see a burnt head or piston or valve. I run 2 jet skis from the 90’s they need there lubricant.
I think the cost of those fuels simply out way the cost of most equipment. Pus those are designed to leave behind unburnt lube or oil. What needs to be done is an evaluation like Project Farm does by measuring the lubrication of the oil left behind, that's what matters the most. As for the gas cans refill issue, that could easy be solved by multiple gas cans. A simple trick to get rid of ethanol in gas is to pour about 10 percent water in the can. Shake the can then let it settle 3 to 4 hours. Ethanol is water soluble and since water is also not readily soluble in gas, the water mixture at the bottom can be syphoned out. It's best to use a clear jug with a clear tube in the cap with a simple shutoff value. Tip the jug over with cap and tube at the bottom, open the value until the water is gone then quickly shut it off. It's stupidly easy.
Cool tip thanks for sharing!
that is very interesting, will have to see how much tome that takes that I dont have. More cost productive to put the righ fuel in the hands of people who dont thin k for a living and just there to get the job done
There isn't a piece of equipment that will benefit enough with $25-35/gal fuel. That's insane. Just buy EtOH free gas.
Tim great way to generate ethanol fuel but the ethanol is a octane booster so you need to add an octane booster to your self made ethanol free fuel or you will not generate the power of the original octane level prior to removing the ethanol. Luckily in Canada we can still easily purchase no ethanol fuel but now only at 91 Octane. Whenever we do carb cleanings on customers equipment at Eliminator Performance we test the fuel and if it has any ethanol or looks or smells degraded we drain it off and install our 91 Octane no ethanol fuel with K100S+ stabilizer made in the USA. We sell lots of the alkylate fuels to our customers for end of the season storage which actually has cut down on our annual service and repairs because this equipment starts right up, but in the long run has generated more customers from word of mouth advertising.
@@littlejackalo5326 Like Stanley says it stops him from buying a $1k concrete saw annually and it is a great product to use for end of the season storage you only need one can or a half a can.
Although I'm not a professional landscaper, groundsman, garden maintenance guy, I do look after my own large gardens with 2 stroke and 4 stroke powered equipment, and never have problems with starting, running or durability. My 2 stroke powered rotary lawnmower was bought new 17 years ago and still starts 1st or 2nd pull, even after winter, and has never even had a new plug! My Honda 4 stroke rotary mower was bought new 37 years ago and is the same, starts 1st or 2nd pull, and is still on the same plug! My strimmer, same. I do maintain all of it properly, check plugs, filters, change oil, keep engines clean, etc. Fuel wise, I keep it in bulk cans with fuel stabiliser added, I mix 2 stroke by measuring fuel into a separate can and mxing with the measured amount of oil, I never top up cans to cause inaccurate mixes. I also have 4 and 2 stroke motorcycles and have no issues with them either, no fouled plugs, no excessive carbon build up etc. Fuel chemistry is super complex and this test was too crude and simplistic to take with any credibility.
sounds like you are completely on top of your maintenance
@@Dirtmonkey
Well it's not difficult and it pays dividends by virtue of the equipment being reliable and lasting many years. I do realise that pro's are on a tight schedule though, and not always having the time for servicing.
Yep.. Project farm is very informative and interesting to watch.. Thanks Stan..
That is quite the difference in the amount of dirt left behind after combustion of the fuel. If you're going through a concrete saw every season, it wouldn't take long to pay off the cost of the Aspen fuels.
People that buy it by the quart has absolutely lost their mind for paying that kind of price anyway. Buy good synthetic oil I personally run Amsoil and I love it and non-ethanol fuel and stabilizer it's the same exact thing and it won't go bad over winter and a heck of a lot cheaper
Love this video best on UA-cam truly beleive this is the best on the market for the price of all my pro Stihl equipment I don’t trust anything else but MotoMix and Stihl Moto4 when it’s not available at my dealer I go with Aspen thank you for everything this post is truly amazing
Hey Stanley, just wondering since you didn’t mention it at all in the video. But in two stroke fuels whether pre mixed or engineered there is always oil or other lubricant added because two strokes don’t have an oiling system. The lubrication for all of the bearings and piston in cylinder comes from the left over residue of the oil once the fuel is burnt away. I agree fully that pump fuel goes bad way to fast and it is great that the engineered fuels have longer shelf life’s but two strokes are not a “clean burning engine” I’d like to see a deeper video on the effects to the fuel under high pressure combustion situations versus atmospheric pressure burning on a plate. Because the more or less soot on a plate could come from the different recipes these companies use for there fuels and type of lubricant. Could be synthetic lubricant vs dinosaur bone lubricants leaving more or less soot. So to a guy that wants his engines to last, high octane fuel and a good 2stroke oil for mixing can still ensure enough lubricant for a long life. Loved the test you came up with tho, keep up the good videos.
Agree, the left over is the oil for lubricant of the internal engines components.
While watching the video, I was wondering if the left over residue was really a negative thing for 2-strokes. I don't agree with the high octane fuel part, but this comment should be higher. In my area, we use high octane in small engines, not because of it being high octane, but rather it is usually ethanol free.
@@greysquare9327 yes! I run a tree service and we stopped running the low grade simply because it doesn’t last. Switched to premium in everything now.
Thanks for doing this. My shop sells Stihl and Aspen.
Run a few tank fulls in a push mower and pull the heads after each fuel type. Compare then clean heads and redo next fuel. Might give better comparison. I personally just use regular gas with stabil added. And ethanol free premium for last tank full before winter storage.
I always use pump gas 87 or 93 octane. With 2-cycle mix. When i was mowing 30 yards a week i bought a new stihl commercial back back blower. It took 15 years of commercial use for me to wear it out! I ordered a upper end engine rebuild kit and am using it today with the old original lower end of the engine doing great! Its semi-retired to consumer use @ my house now.
LOVE Project Farm. Hopefully he tests the fuels further. Thanks Stan for the awesome content as always!
Rule No. 1: always check Project Farm's videos before buying tools :D
@projectfarm doesn't do shill videos like this, granted i didnt think dirtmonkey did either till now. He definitely doesn't lite gasoline next to gas cans....
He did a video 3 years ago on TruFuel.
I use premium from the pump on my Husqvarna since 1998. I changed the spark plug last week, for the first time, and looked into the cylinder at the piston.
It was perfectly clean with no carbon build up or any staining.
Always great content Stan. Although I do disagree with your findings, I prefer to look at the bright side of this topic. That is if the head potato in charge keeps screwing with the gas prices any longer, it will be more cost effective to fill up my truck at Wal-Mart in the TruFuel aisle.
its sadly getting to be that way
Biden is a A-Hole !!!
Aussie here, thanks for making this video, I've never had anyone ever inform me of this, I love our Bunnings here in Australia, their great but until your video I never knew there were pre-mixed versions of fuels.
I don’t always light plates on fire, but when I do I make sure to do it inside a wooden garage… 😹
😂👍
This was a great depiction of we as consumers are buying with no real world understanding. Thank you!
I bought two one gallon cans of the true fuel at home depot after hurricane Michael here in Florida. I used one and a half gallons cutting up trees. Now let me remind you that Michael hit us in 2018. I just pulled out the chainsaw two weeks ago, that had gas in it from 2018, three pulls on my pullan pro, and it fired right up so I could cut a railroad tie in half for the neighbor. It's been in there for almost four years. Never used the product before hurricane Michael. New 18" saw, two gallons of tru-fuel and two quarts of bar oil. I am just now finishing up the rest of the tru-fuel in my new echo 225 without any problems. But, if you have a better suggestion on what would be a better fuel to use, I'm open to suggestions if it would extend the life of the engine and not burn up the piston from lack of lubrication.
I have 2 Husqvarna chainsaws. A 440 and a 435 I bought a year ago. Plus an older Echo leaf blower. I have been using pump gas (premium) with Stabil in it. I just went through cleaning the carb on all three because nothing would start. Actually the blower would start but would barely run above idol. So I went and bought a couple gallons of True Fuel to avoid more problems. Now I'm thinking about taking back the unused can and buying Stihl fuel since it is available where I live. I'm just not sure if Stanley's experiment is grounds for me to do this.
@@dangrimes5078,I wasn't trying to get anyone to buy true fuel, I was just explaining my experience with it after getting hit on October 10th 2018 by a category 5 hurricane Michael. For me it was a need being that the power was out for the majority of the county. It was easier for me to pick up some 50-1 fuel and bar oil for my new chainsaw while they had some in stock at the local home depot.
@@bobbywills9487 I understand but you know I found another channel that tested the different fuels and they also found the Stihl to be the cleanest. Maybe Stihl is best but when a gas clogs up the carberator we aren't even talking about the way it burns right? That's what has me confused. My problem isn't carbon on the piston or exhaust Port. The carberator gets gummed up. I just assumed it was from the ethenol (excuse my spelling, I know it's terrible)
Hay Stan actually the Aspen only come in a 1.3 gallon jug and it $27 from that same place Russo they don't sell 1 gallon jugs or by the case but do ship but do ship 1 case 12 - 1 Quart bottles for $68 + Shipping $40 also and STIHL MotoMix is $35 per gallon
Great Vid!
I drive an extra 20mins to get ethanol free gas for my cars and toys. Ethanol will destroy your engine over time. My 5.4-2V has over 300K miles and runs better than my friends newer trucks and I believe it's cause I run better gas. I do pay a higher price, but I have less repairs
yep- good gas is worth it. I also try and use ethanol free fuel
Very interesting! Thanks for posting this. Two things to consider for taking it to the next level:
- 2-stroke fuel is designed to leave behind some lubrication. Could it be that each brand has some variation in the residual lubricant and/or the appearance of it?
- How does stoichiometry affect the test result?
great observation, but as previously stated, open burning and compression burning with the same fuels in each scenario will have wildly different results... and like you said, Project Farms testing involves running the fuels/oils/STUFF and breaking down the heads off the tools to compare internals... 'freeburn' fuels usually develops soot through incomplete combustion..... excellent primary demonstration to compare the various fuels in an apples to apples test. Did you notice any clouds or rather smoke vapors in the garage? Couldnt actually see anything but you were focused on the plates/flames rather than the open air... as like you said again, the gentlemen didnt have bloodshot eyes and the funk commonly associated with running oil/fuel mixes
So can I use the Aspen-4 or Aspen-2 in my generator? It's hurricane season here in Florida. And if I can, than I can leave fueled up for the hole season till November.
Team up with project farm and do more testing. I'd be very interested if the results can be duplicated
Interesting stuff, thanks for sharing.
I think the most important part is left out... Your health. And this is where Aspen and similar fuels shine. The emisions, which you inhale all day long running your chainsaw, trimmer etc, are much much less harmfull to your health.
Excellent point Klaus
Hi from uk. I only use Aspen 2 in saws and trimmers etc. Never any starting or running problems. Do a few repairs etc for folk and clean tanks then refill with aspen2. Always run and cut timber before returning, always fine.
A first class video 👍 and a bew subscriber from across the pond
awesome vid was always curious about the preservatives in the engineered fuels and what that caused to engines... keep up the solid work! oh ya LET's GO BRANDON I mean project farm
Polish here. This is the first time I see those ready-to-use fuels. Everyone always uses the standard unleaded 95 mixed with oil. I've had one lawnmower for over 15 years and it still runs great (Briggs & Stratton engine, can't remember which one. Of course I did a lot of maintenance to keep it that way). So I am very confused after watching this video. I've also never had problems with pre-mixed fuel going out of use and it nearly always stays over winter.
Also, Project Farm is a great channel!
I found an old lawn mower in a dumpster with a briggs engine. Used it every year for 20 years. The only maint I did was add drain oil to the crankcase every time I used it (it burnt some oil). I never changed oil. The engine stopped working one day after 20 years so I threw it all in the trash.
50:1 mix at $35 a gallon ain’t cheap. I’ve been using Lucas and TrueFuel from HD so what you say makes sense. I’m wondering what the typical string trimmer would look like after a season of pump fuel vs Aspen (Stihl) vs Lucas. In California we have pump fuel with 10% ethanol which destroys carbs. Btw - you are using caps from different manufacturers should measure by a measuring vials 🧪 does aspen make the fuel for Stihl? 🙉
I am so much more confused after reading those comments...
(copy-pasta of my comment) "Polish here. This is the first time I see those ready-to-use fuels. Everyone always uses the standard unleaded 95 mixed with oil. I've had one lawnmower for over 15 years and it still runs great (Briggs & Stratton engine, can't remember which one. Of course I did a lot of maintenance to keep it that way). So I am very confused after watching this video. I've also never had problems with pre-mixed fuel going out of use and it nearly always stays over winter.
Also, Project Farm is a great channel!"
@@NimbleBard48 a Honda or Toro lawnmower is a different beast than a Stihl or Echo string trimmer. I let unused pump gas sit in my Honda generator and it gummed up the carburetor to the point it was a rough idle. I ran some fuel additive and then switched to TruFuel 4 cycle engineered fuel. Trouble gone. Here’s the game changer. My stihl FS-90 I do little to none maintenance and leave the gas in there. I might start it up after a few months. It’s never been to the shop and other than spark plug and filter I don’t do much. So basically your paying more for the engineered fuels for the convenience of zero maintenance and a visit to the lawnmower repair shop. So yah you can run pre-mix pump fuel and then toss the Ryobi string trimmer out in 3-5 years or pay more and not get burdened with maintenance. In California our gas is 10% ethanol junk, so I don’t have a choice for the occasional use to run pump gas mix ⛽️. Hope that helps.
Really like the video 👍🏻. Very informative with the visual ⛽️ carbon substances left on the plates 🍽️. Wish you guys would’ve have done the test/demonstration outside on a day with NO wind. Safety and ventilation is paramount.
Video nice video Stan ❤️👍 You mentioned your guys top off two stroke mix? I would never allow that. Way too much room for mistakes. I always empty my two-stroke gas can mix and then start on another one. Keep up the good work.
Where do yo, or "your guys", empty your gas?
Into the chainsaw lol
Nice one Stan. 👍👍🏴🏴
Thanks tony
Hey Stan good video. I have very good luck with aviation fuel. Lasts 2-3 years in the planes. Getting 55 gallon drum and premixing might be a little cheap than the Aspen fuel.
Nice thanks for the tip
Watch out for lead in the avgas. LL100 means "low lead" 100 octane.
@@Dirtmonkey not alot of us coan go by a 55gallon drum of aviation fuel but knowing which premix that serves better in the equipment, us weekend warriors, first repsonders or occasional volunteers that help in tornados or hurricane clean up, we can keep a few gallons on hand at $22 and not kill us on price.
Hopefully not 100LL (low lead), unless of course you like to get a little lead poisoning. www.faa.gov/newsroom/leaded-aviation-fuel-and-environment
I used to clean the screen inside my carburetor on my trimmer at the beginning of every season. Since I started buying that cheap box house brand no more trouble like that. Not doing this for a living that's a win in my book.
Great job Stan. I thought Stihl was overpriced fuel, but I'm wrong.
I guess we have just got lucky at work but we just use pump gas and mix our own we have 3 stihls and 1 husky and the ts350 the original saw we had still runs great never touched carb or engine. Maybe because they are used almost everyday?
This isnt actually indicative of how those fuels will actually burn in an engine. They're not under elevated pressures or temps burning on those plates. They will without a doubt burn differently in an engine. I'm sure fuel makers arent optimizing fuel to burn on a plate instead of in an engines conditions. Your test completely ignores the reid vapor pressure as well as other fuel based parameters...
I tried to tell him and he got offended, this test has no scientific value whatsoever, it means nothing, not only that the guys lucky he didn't catch his garage on fire, also I told him this is the kind of fake science is what the anti petroleum people use to convince the public how bad gasoline engines are
100%
still gives you a pretty common sense idea. pump gas for the price is way more logical to use then $8 a. quart. at the end of the season I always take the plug out soak with carburetor cleaner or kerosene. decarbonize everything. put a light oil back in. clean the muffler screen and voila. good to go.
I had the worst experience with the trufuel. Put it in my hedge trimmer and thought it was something great. It ran great. Two weeks later went back out to try to start them and nothing. I pulled and pulled and got ticked off thinking it was my hedge trimmer. It was like it had no fire at all. I checked the spark plug and I even thought it was the kill switch maybe. Wound up throwing them across the yard after incessantly trying to start them then it hit me…. Dump out the trufuel and fill it back up with the non-ethanol mix. It fired right up. Never again will I buy anything pre made.
I guess I won’t be using Trufuel anymore
I have always put the little bit of left over 2 cycle into a large fuel tank on a piece of 4 cycle equipment or just into the larger 4 cycle gas can, that minimal oil mixed with multiple gallons of fuel won't hurt a bit and ensures proper ratio of 2 cycle in the can
hi stan i have bben watching alot of your videos over the past few years im based in australia, so things are a bit different here, but i also watch alot of videos on project farm and some of his experiments might come in handy and he sends samples to labs, uses a mower with a see through combustion chamber and many other tests, if exploring this stuff is a direction you want to go then maybe a collab , or you can watch his test videos and see if they apply to your needs, great video have a great week, from australia
lol i wrote my comment before the end of the video
Back in 1996 or 7, a mechanic, Steve Gerline, had a call in radio show on 550 AM in San Antonio, TX. During a show, an old small engine mechanic called in. He was retiring after 50+ years in business. He said if you use premium fuel in your power/yard equipment, you’ll never need his services. He also said the most important fuel tank fill up is BEFORE you put it away. He said fill the tank COMPLETELY! The lack of airspace helps keep the fuel fresher. Since then, I’ve never had a carb/fuel problem . I also don’t use any additives nor do I drain the tank in the off season.
Let’s go project farm
In any vehicle the less RPM's you turn the more fuel mileage you get. In my 9200 pound stock diesel manual transmission truck. These are actual fuel tests measured down to the teaspoon of fuel for accuracy. At around 42-44 miles per hour. I get 42.5 miles to the gallon with AC and cruise on. Around 70 mph with AC and cruise on I get 10 miles to the gallon. Testing with AC on and off didn't make much of a difference but slowing down made a huge impact on fuel economy and not stabbing the throttle. It seems why they went to automatic transmissions in most everything. they're cheaper to build, when they burn up they can sell you another vehicle, if you get an automatic too hot their toast, automatic transmissions burn more fuel shifting at higher RPMs than a manual transmission and automatics don't last as long as manual transmissions. Your best fuel economy in anything is around 10 to 16 mph wherever it it idles in neutral at is where the RPMs you want to go down the road for perfect fuel economy. Roughly I figured for every mile per hour over your idle speed you're burning about a half a mile to the gallon more fuel. Now what I'm about to tell you Don't try this at home because I'm a trained professional. I drift in gear in neutral, I shut the engine down and drift in neutral. But don't try this your steering can lock up and cause you to crash. Owning the same car in 1990 as of today with that car new from 1990 you're burning more fuel. Why because you're going faster miles per hour today than you were in 1990. Also for fuel economy I shut my motor off sitting at stop lights in the daytime not at night because it wears on the battery without the engine running. Also no jackrabbit starts this Burns additional Fuel and can make a dent in your fuel mileage and testing that I've done. Also my fuel test start with the engine off when filling up with fuel and putting fuel to the top of the fuel filler door for accuracy writing down the miles and calculating to the gallon for accuracy.
Your helper contaminated his half of the experiment using the same cap to add fuel to the plates
I think you ordering that Aspen fuel by the drum is a no brainer. %100 great idea. It doesn't take long to go through a gallon of premix with an operation like yours and having a drum full of it will pay off.
Hey hey stan, great video again, love everyone of your videos, always so informational, i got some great news to share with you, i passed my drivers test yesterday, it felt so good. I am now officially a licensed driver, they will have my hard license in the mail by the end of next week they say. So happy, another big milestone done. So stan, i am so ready for this Fourth of July weekend, its so great to see a country come together for the 250th anniversary of the independence of this great and powerful nation, i hope you and your family have a great time,a nd if you can, can you make a instagram post of whatever you end up doing, wether it be lighting fireworks or having. A great big bbq, i think it would be most cool. Have a great night stan, good bless and go get em, your pal and firend, Alexander costa, and god bless America
That's so awesome you passed your drivers test! Big things happening. I'll be up north with some family this weekend, I'm pretty stoked to get out of the city! I hope you have an awesome weekend and stay safe on the road out there buddy 👍
Congratulations 👍
Ok I like this kid. God bless you young man. Please be careful out there at night on the 4th. The drunks will be everywhere. We would hate for something to happen to you.
I only use aspin 2 in my tools. It's Amazing stuff. Very convenient as well. Great video Stan
👍👍👍👍👍
👍👊
@@Dirtmonkey
Happy July 4 th Weekend
🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Very interesting !!!! My closest friend of 35 years worked as a small engine mechanic for the local farmers coop here in east Tn .. stihl and huskvarna both sent him to school .. he has learned to use the Farmers Coop gas because its a 100% pure gas and always use stihl or huskvarna oil in the equipment .. if customers use the ethanol gas from the gas pump it voids the warranty .. ive had good luck using their gas … its a lil more expensive but for my 4 wheeler and off road vehicles that may sit for months at a time and i never have a oroblem out of them having fuel issues from sitting too long … i just thought id share my good luck with you !!!
💥 Let’s go Project Farm! 😁👍
I mix my own with premium fuel. I think it’s better than any others and I store my stuff with filled tanks. No issues. 🤷♂️
*Keep on tractoring!*
Exactly ! .. I use premium fuel for the additives in it and treat it with
Sta-Bil 360 marine and/or Star-Tron.
I never drain the tank
“ I fill the fuel tank all the way” when stored to eliminate any additional air
as ethanol is hygroscopic and Oxygen & Water is
the catalyst that deteriorates fuel
I have never had a problem with any stored fuel in my outdoor power equipment or my car when performing the above procedure.
Good test. The ultimate fuel additive is pri-g. Fuel will be good for two years. No so with stabil. Add one cap of dry gas to one gallon. good to go for the season. the best mix
I’ve been using Aspen 2 for a year and both my Stihl trimmer and back pack blower run so much better. Very noticeable at idle and full power. I get longer run times on each tank for the trimmer. Buying Aspen 4 for the lawn mower to help it sit through the winter.
Yes Project Farm please take this to the next level
🙏👍
I run moto mix in all the handheld equipment before the go into hibernation for the winter. Starts right up 1st pull come springtime. Didn’t know Aspen made a comparable product for much less. Ill be looking into it. Nice work Stan and DM force 💪🏻💪🏻
I live in twin cities area. and don't have those issues. I just use BP 93 octane have a tight lid on my can and don't keep gas more than 4 months. Also any equipment with a vented tank I don't keep alot of fuel in everything off gasses (my opinion) I just won't pay more than $4.00 a gal. for fuel. Good video.