Hyundai Clunk Noise Front Sway Bar Link Fix Replacement - Hyundai/Kia 2013-2019
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- Опубліковано 18 бер 2021
- In this video we diagnose a "clunk noise" in the front end of a 2013 Hyundai Santa Fe with 115K miles. The noise could be heard when going over sharp bumps especially at speeds under 40 mph. The front steering also had a slight wandering feel when driving on the highway. Ozzstar takes you through the steps on how to properly diagnose the abnormal noise and the proper replacement of the sway bar link to solve the problem. Thanks for stopping by the channel and feel free to comment and ask questions down below. -Glen (Ozz)
*MOOG Stabilizer Sway Bar Link K750659* amzn.to/3c1oANf
Fits:
Hyundai Santa Fe 2013-18 and 2019 long wheel base FWD & AWD
Kia Sorento 2014-2015
Check out some cool tools that Ozzstar likes to use: www.amazon.com/shop/ozzstar
If this video has helped you out consider donating to the the channel with Paypal, thanks!: www.paypal.me/ozzstar
INSTAGRAM: Ozzstar1
FACEBOOK: ozzstar
Mailing address:
Ozzstar
PO BOX 9291
Newark, DE 19714 - Авто та транспорт
**MOOG Stabilizer Sway Bar Link K750659** amzn.to/3c1oANf
Fits:
Hyundai Santa Fe 2013-18 and 2019 long wheel base FWD & AWD
Kia Sorento 2014-2015
Check out some cool tools that Ozzstar likes to use: www.amazon.com/shop/ozzstar
Hey man, thanks for taking the time to make this video, it was exactly what I needed to get this job done. You saved a stranger and his family a bunch of cash, and these days every dollar matters! Thanks
Glad I was able to help.
And the shop wanted to charge my ole man nearly a thousand dollars to fix this clunk! When we've got fellas like yourself giving so much useful knowledge, there's no way I'd have someone else work on my vehicle. Thanks for the in-depth break down!
You got it man!
Great video explaining noise I'm dealing with. Why would anyone thumbs down. Haters are probably jealous.
Thank you sir
This folks is how you make a how to video, thank you sir. 👏
Great job Glen making the proper diagnosis and repair. This reminds me of the cartoon I saw about the mechanic that had the car all apart and told the customer we found your noise. It was a marble in the ashtray...lol, Have a great weekend
😄
Incredibly good video. Turned out this was the problem with my Sonata. Thanks for the detailed instructions. Really saved me a lot of time and trouble.
Glad it helped. Pass the tip jar. 😀
You are so awesome! Excellent instructional video and you get right to the point! Saved my son a couple hundred bucks doing it himself. Car rides like new with no noise!
That is great news Bob!
Great video! Easy to follow! Clear instructions!
Finally, someone that not showing us an easy diagnostic of end links, it might be my issue, will change them next week. Thanks!
Your welcome.
Well done, definitely feel confident about doing a replacement now 👍
Take your time and double check the work.
Great video, you deserve a 5 stars for explaining in such detail et make sure that the camera focus and lighting are alway good! Thank you very much!
Only.one way to do things, that's the right way.👍 Thank you.
Brilliant advice I changed the bars on mine I had a nightmare because I only had one side off the ground after seeing this man do it right with the tip put both sides off the ground so simple thanks my friend I will be following your video's 😊
Hey Glen, just wanted to thank you for this great video. The tip of lifting the car slightly on the opposite side made the trick for removing the damaged part. You are the man! Thanks again and many blessings to you and your family!
Glad the video helped Javi!
You could as well put the jack down the low arm of the side you working at and lift it a little bit, then you can make the screw go out easily. This way you do not need to lift up the other car´s side ;), BTW of you are going to check the car after this, you just can disconect only the lower screw of the link instead of removing the whole link before to replace it.
Great Video, I appreciate you taking the time showing us that job.
You're welcome Alex
I almost gave up and took it in since everything i checked looked good, but then saw this video and it ended up being both sides that needed replacement. Thanks man.
$aved your$elf a $mall fortune. 👍 -Glen
Excellent video with simple yet effective diagnosis procedures. Saved a significant amount of $$ and a lot of unnecessary work, as I presumed this noise was due to bad struts. It now drives down the road with no noise! Thank you so much!!
You are welcome Steve. The tip jar is open. 👍
One of the best instructional videos I have seen on UA-cam. Thanks!
Thanks for the kind words Andy!
AGREED!
Wow. What a perfect, professional video explanation in every way. Thank you Sir!
Thanks GG
AGREED!
Have the same issue. The car dealership said they don’t hear it. I get in and immediately hear it. Now I know the terms to use…. Wish you lived closer. Thanks again……
After having all these clowns working on my Santa Fe but still having the clunking sound I think I'll be able to just fix it myself after watching your video. So, thank you, Sir for explaining the issue and how to fix it so well.
It's easy enough to diagnose. Thanks for the comment Brandy.
I replaced my shocks and struts and my clunking went down but was still there. Your video popped up out of nowhere. Perfect timing. Thanks for the detail.
Let us know how your diagnosis goes.
Fantastic explanation of how it can fail and symptoms. Most people just show you how to replace.
I educate. Thanks for the comment Kevin.
Great video. Excellent instructions and tips and camera work is great. Easy to see the details.
Thank you Dan. I try my best for being a one man band.
Terrific video! Appreciate the tips. I get nervous rocking the tire from 6/12 position without a jackstand for redundancy, so now I take the extra few minutes.
That's a smart move Neil!
Great video! Easy to follow, matter of fact. I recently upgraded to a third generation Santa Fe from a 2nd generation thanks to a huge tree limb that crushed my car while parked. I can hear the clunk when the dealership cannot, I will be replacing the sway bar link after assessment. Thanks!
You got it Jack! Hope it solves your issue.
Camera angles great! Informative and humorous too! What more could you ask for? Even my son, RYAN, thought you were humorous! Thanks.
Thanks! Ironic that Dennis is my dads name and Ryan is my sons name. Not kidding.😁 Glad you guys enjoyed the video. 👍
Super helpful. Very detailed and thorough walk through. Thank you.
Awesome, glad the vid helped you out Chris.
Thanks for the video. Was 99% sure I had the same problem. Only wanted to change the one. Ended up not the one I thought. Great tips and appreciate the video.
Glad the video helped you out Michael.
you do a great job explaining, I have a feeling it's my sway bar I'll do this tomorrow
Thanks for showing all the steps and tips along the way. Great video.
You're welcome Jason. 👍
Very well explained how the mechanical system works. Thank you for your video very appreciated.
You're welcome Ricky
I haven’t had any problems with Moog suspension parts. Great video Glen!
Some say differently but I haven't personally seen any issues.
@@ozzstars_cars been threw 3 sets of end links on my dodge charger from moog in the past year and a half. 👀
Glad you mentioned taking pressure off drop link by jacking up other side. Thanks
I taught myself that trick. I was working on a Ford many years ago doing suspension work and had the hardest time of my life connecting the drivers side sway bar link. Live, learn and help others.
Exactly like my 2012 Hyundai Accent. Thanks for the “both wheels off the ground tip!”
Excellent vid I have the same problem noise in my 2016 sonata and will use your vid as a guide . Thanks good job.
Great video for sure. You made sure we hear it clearly. For us who don’t know cars well
👍
Awesome man was trying to find torque specs for this vehicle. Thanks for saying 80!
Thanks for the detailed video. I missed at what time of the video you demonstrated the clunking noise. I saw initially you pulling on sway bar link and saying that type of play is for it
Tremendously helpful! Thank you for explaining in detail , certainly helped save a lot of time and frustration.
Glad to know the video helped you out! -Glen (Ozz)
Great video. Dent in your hand is from the nut on the driver's side sway bar end link.
That was great ! Thank you. I am quieting up a 2012 Optima.
Great video - really liked the "clunk" diagnostics!
Thanks Sharon!
I have same sound after installing coilovers. I will try this check when I get home. Thanks for the video!!
Good luck with the diagnosis.
absolutly outstanding coverage!
Thank you Dave!
I love this video, thanks for making it. I had this same problem now its gone.
Nice fix!
Great VDO foe DIYs. LIKED it, learned how to do. Made me confident, Many thanks
Good news!
Great video and advice I'm going through the same thing I just changed both lower Ball joints but still getting noise thanks so much I'm gonna order my 2 sway bar links today and change them out 👍
Let us know how it goes!
Thankyou for sharing this Hyundai always seemed to charge me $600 Cad to do this and I've had three so far.
Really appreciate the detail in presentation, thank you. Great content.
Glad the video was helpful to you. Thanks for the comment and support! -Glen
Thanks for sharing, going to this this on my wife’s 2010 SF.
Also bought the “grease-able” kind. Really wished the car manufacturers kept the zerk fittings for the suspension systems.
Let us know how it works out Carlos.
I have a 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe exact same thing going on with mine.great video.
Same side of tire? Same 2011 limited sonata. About to deal with it.... what about u?
THANK YOU!! After listening to clunking for the last 6 months, I did your test and it failed. To test in a parking lot: I turned the front wheels so that I could touch the links with my fingers while reaching in from the rear of the front tire. My brother then bounced the corner of the car and I could feel the play in the lower part of the link quite easily. Both sides were shot. I got my mechanic to change both sway bar links, and it's smooth as silk now. Thanks again! (I like your teaching style, very well done.)
Thank you, glad the video was educational and enlightening.
Great job explaining the problem
Thanks Tim for your comment
Thank you so much for description of the sound. I have taken it to the shop several times and they say that can’t hear it….Ii is at the shop today. waiting on a call right now. Wish you lived close. I would go to you. Thank you so much for finding an
I'm glad the video was helpful to you Linda. Hopefully the shop gets it right this time! Show them the video, they enjoy this kind of thing. 🙂
Thanks a lot. It's doing the same on my Hyundai i20. It was caused when I ran through a flooded road a couple of years ago, took it to the shocks place and they couldn't diagnose it so I've been driving it like this for all these years, probably from 2018
wow! Good luck with the fix.
Thank you for the video! This ended up being the issue on my 2012 Hyundai Elantra. Unfortunately, I dumped a lot of money on shocks and struts (though they were close to needing to be replaced). Drives so much better now.
That new car feeling!
Just about to tackle my 2012 Elantra ( 200,000 miles). While doing an oil change, I noticed the ball joint of the stabilizer had come right out. Oops.
Did tie rod ends before and this looks easier.
@@marcknightly9677 - I do wonder if my ball joints are bad. The loud clunking sound is gone but there is still a click sound on some bumps. It is better than it was before.
I thought you did a great job on that front suspension check? I have to do the same thing to my 2010 Scion XB? I'm glad they're the same way you're car has, which makes the job a lot easier. They're not the little ones. Thanks for sharing. 👍👍👍
Glad the video helped you out. Thanks
Good video, helps me with my next job.
Tks dude. Fixed my Hyundai Starex (i-Load or i-Max in other countries) clunking noise when going over the road hump, after changing this front stabilizer bar link. Previously changed both sides of tie rod end due to noise when turning the steering wheel. But it will not stop there. Weeks later another slight clunking noise heard when turning the steering wheel due to worn both sides of steering rack end. It looks like this is the package of compulsory components change of Korean made cars after hitting 150K km mileage. Tie rod ends, front stabilizer sway bar links (both sides), steering rack ends, and steering rack rubber bush if worn & loose.
It's always going to be something on a well used vehicle.
Just bought a 2014 Sorento and I thought I just wasn't used to the steer by wire steering, it felt squirrely, with a very slight pull to the right, the previous owner mentioned during the test drive that a clunk had started recently. Had my mechanic diagnose and fix before I saw this video. Exactly what you did. Fixed the clunking and the steering tightened up and started tracking perfect. Now I'll check to see if he used a greaseable part.
Good to hear you have a competent mechanic and not just a parts changer trying to make money.
Awesome man those links can be a bit tricky at times depending on type of cars and the weight that either sits on it or pulls on it.
Great video, great technique, very thorough. I'm getting the same "Clunk" on our 14.5' Range Rover Sport with 106K miles... The "Clunk" is coming from the drivers side wheel well area which would indicate it's something either attached to the knuckle/HUB, air-strut, or sway bar/links... Now I'm 95% sure it's either the sway-bar bushings and/or the sway-bar end links. Happens on medium to hard acceleration. I bought both OEM sway-bar bushings and as for the end-links as I went with the Moog serviceable end-links too. Going to install them this weekend God-willing... I hate that "Clunking" sound. Thanks again for the diagnosis that the Dealer has missed twice and costed me over 3K chasing down.
Let us know how it goes Jeremy. 👍
Oh and BTW if you fix the problem, show the stealership the video. 😁
Super, thanks for the good explanation ! God bless you!
Thanks, excellent explanation, very thorough
You got it!
My stupid mechanic told me that clonking noise was the caliper pins that were worn..i then purchased an entire set of caliper pins and the noise was still there 😡..only after watching this video, I did the bump test and it's exactly the same noise with the worn linkage...
I will be changing that next weekend..
Thank you for posting this video 🙂
Trinidad and Tobago 🇹🇹 (caribbean)
Sounds like a nice warm place to be. It was 13⁰f here this morning. Good luck with the fix, show him my video. 🙄
@@ozzstars_cars it's hot 🔥
81°f
@@ozzstars_cars how do I send you the video when I change the linkage?
I like your videos Glen of where you show each step. I assume that anyone who watches doesn't know and you've got them covered. And for the ones who do know, they'll just skip through the video. My first thought about that impression was that you were pressing on the stabilizer link bolt. So, to confirm it, I back tracked through the video to see you doing that, but you were using your thumb. I see further down in the comments, that's what you were doing. I guess you cut that part out. Anyway, great video and keep up the good work! 😊👍
The magic of editing. 😁 Thanks Terry.
I had a Kia in the shop just yesterday for the exact same problem. And I figured it out exactly like you did by I’m bolting the swaybar link ends. Nice video Glen . Way to take us in their deep😜
Gotta go deep sometimes to get the job done!
@@ozzstars_cars lol
@@ozzstars_cars - Just like they said in the movie Dodgeball ... 😂🤣😂
I am sorry but korean cars r just cr*p...look good but built quality n reliability is poor...the japanese r the real masters of the automobile, esp toyota
Great explanation on this job .I am ready to start the replacement , thank’s u. 😀
Good luck Falcon. Let us know how it goes!
I purchased a Jeep WJ a few days ago. I think one of the rear shocks is blown out. I test drove it and heard it clunking the back. I mentioned it and she had never noticed it but her boyfriend had asked about it earlier in the day. I guess people get used to the noise. I listed to the shock with my automotive stethoscope that was recommended on one of the UA-cam channels I watch. Yes, it was you.
That is a long end link on that sway bar.
Great video! Appreciate your time.😊
You're welcome. Thanks
Nice thorough walk thru. Nice work. And up north in upper Canada where it's -40c for weeks at a time and a 6 month winter. I always use Moog parts never had an issue with them. And those zurks already installed same with their ubjoints etc. Saves u bunch of time drilling and tapping your own zurks in. I like to be able to service my truck when doing oil changes while its draining you put a few pumps in and chances are that part will be a lifetime part and not break again. Not like the OEM LIFETIME components. Those are a joke.
Absolutely! Stay warm and thanks for your comment.
Thank you for mentioning the torque specs. Now I know what to do.
Right on Matthew!
Love the personality. As a mechanic I hate videos. You are great
Haha thanks! 👍
Excellent work thank you
Great video,a lot of important info🎉. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video brother!
Thanks Seth
Yes they make a lot of noise . I save the old ones , as that piece of rod comes in handy . Nice no nonsense video.
Thanks Esox!
Great video, thanks, I have a 2021 Hyundai Venue, and that's exactly the noise I am getting, its only done 7.000 KS, have taken it to 3
Hyundai dealers, they say it's nothing to worry about . Not so, I am an 83-year-old mechanic . Its not right also its under 5-year warrany . I will try to inspect the link . Thanks again
Show the dealership mechanic this video. Good luck Dave!
Thank you. In Europe, but same applies to ix35. Excellent video.
You're welcome, thanks for the comment!
Great job ...well explained 👏🏾
Thanks for the comment!
Thank you great stuff
Noise is driving me nuts. 😊
I completely understand. Good luck with the fix!
Excelente video, espectacularmente explicado!!! Muchas gracias ☺️.
De nada
Great video I hope that's the only thing wrong with my car TBT
This the one. THANKS!!
Excellent video!
Thanks Scott!
Thanks so much. Very helpful
You're welcome!
Good technics... Thanks men 🙏🙏
Great job, nice and detailed.
Thanks
My wife's car is a 2010 Hyundai Tuscon (similar to Santa Fe) had clunking in front end, thought it was a Tie-rod or Ball-joint. Mechanic said it was a "link" and gave a rough estimate of $200 to fix. After a quick google search and watching your video, I did it myself. I bought a used 18V Torque wrench, and 2 Moog bars from Amazon. All in about $120. Was easier than changing the oil! Thank you!! (btw I have the same grease gun, mine doesn't leak)
That awesome Craig and you have a tool to use for a long time. Passing the tip jar around now. 😁👍
Thank you brother for the help!
You're welcome.
Excellent demonstration!
I think I'm using the same grease as you😂
🤣👍
Amazing guide. If my quote comes in too high. Heck im doing it myself. I do have a torque wrench so should be smooth.👍
Easy job
@Ozzstar's Cars yeh got it done and it was easy. But it was at the limit of my strength. Thank you though. The links were 140. Could have got them cheaper.
Great info having same issue with mine.
Great Video, very precise
Thank you Michael!
Excellent video
Thanks for the comment Al.
What a great video ! Thank you so much.
You're welcome Patrick! Glad you enjoyed it. -Glen
Great video
Awesome vid ! My gun bleeds too 🥴🤣 it’s so annoying. I think during summer it’s worse. So no I just leave it in oil pan. I thought it was just me with a defective grease gun.
It's the quality of today's grease. Thanks for the comment.
Awesome information & tutorial 👏 👌🏼 👍🏻
Thank you so much 👍