I have used Marvel mystery oil for rust removal, you are SUPPOSED to SOAK whatever you are trying to remove the rust from . Sometimes it takes overnight but you won't have to be scrubbing. Just make sure you remove all other parts of the item that aren't made of metal. Then it works perfectly.
Iron oxide(rust) is a process that occurs over time and in layers, if you soak your parts in a heated solution(180"f ) for a period of 6hrs you will have different results Iron oxide is not a topical condition but a deterioration of the base metal Heat opens the grain structure allowing the solvents to penetrate
Zack, I’ve been into old tools for a long while, and some antique collectors spaz out on us cleaner uppers of tools. Now, I rarely restore any tool to original condition and merely clean up the tool to working condition. Early on I just used some basic stuff like steel wool, different grades of wet or dry sandpaper, and lots of elbow grease. I tried electrolysis which worked great, but it’s kind of a fussy project, but works very well on rust. Then I tried Evapo-rust which works great also, but is a little pricey. Finally, I tried straight old vinegar. Cheap and the best way for me, so good that that is ALL I use. The most important thing using a liquid like vinegar is total submersion. If you don’t fully cover the object, a line will develop where the vinegar level is, and when you flip it over, it’ll be a mess. I’ve watched folks on UA-cam try electrolysis, Evaporust, and vinegar and they’ll say she's a no work. It worked, but you have to let it soak for 24 hours and you MUST wire brush the item as soon as it comes out of the liquid. I just use some Dawn liquid and one of those 1” stainless steel or brass, hand held brushes from Harbor Freight. Ta-da! No rust! I let most stuff soak for 24 hours and the results are perfect. The vinegar and wire brush will get pitted rust out of the pits. Rarely do I ever have to do it twice. I’m no expert on anything, but this works. Hand plane chip breakers are notorious for pitted surfaces, and while the pits remain, the rust is no more. I dry the object with a rag and place it on my gas stove burner, let it heat for just a little bit, to drive out the moisture, let it cool completely, and rub it down with some oil, wipe it off, and it’s done. Give it a try. And best to you!
I would consider a brass bristle brush, too. Minimally invasive on steel, and it doesn't swirl as bad as sandpaper or steel bristles. A bench grinder is ideal, but a hand brush or drill mounted brush works too.
marvel had many many uses. I used it for years as a carberator cleaner mixed 1/1 with acetone. I use it for sharpening knifes, used in firearms and many other shop uses. it truly is a shop staple
I have used a product called Evaporust on ax heads, hand saws, car and tractor parts - also doesn't remove the paint (if there's any on it) to match up for repainting
Thanks for adding the vinegar bit! So many videos show a methodology that doesn’t turn out working and it’s kind of a let down. You are the only one I’ve seen so far recognize this and show a method that is successful. It’s a small detail that makes a big difference, like and subscribe button pressed!
For most of the various oil methods in rust removal, it's the rust you're picking up in the oil as you scrub that's the abrasive to remove the other rust. Works better on light stuff though. Wadded aluminum foil also helps it along, as it's a softer metal than steel.
I appreciate you taking your time trying to provide good useful information. They are more bogus videos that won't work than videos that are useful, even when you post a video trying to prove or disprove a video you catch hell from smart asses but most people are thankful for your help but there always has to be a know it all in the bunch pointing out what you should and shouldn't do.If they know that much they should do their own video. Thanks for your videos.
In the past I had always used it, and steel wool, on a drill. Considering the fact that if it has taken years to rust you cannot even expect the rest to just easily disappear.
My father was a big believer in Marvel mystery oil. He grew up on a farm in western Oklahoma. He always said that it was an excellent upper cylinder lube.
Try a combination of paint thinner and a bit of oil mixed together. Will it work any better than Marvel? Likely not because it's the same thing. Try putting a quart of paint thinner (pure mineral spirits) in your gas tank along with a bit of two stroke oil. My old van seems to like that once in a while. It sure began to idle nice and run smooth.
When you use vinegar do you just put a drop on the rust and start scrubbing like a mental patient? No, you soak it overnight, sometimes for several days.
Kenn Baker that's so funny .But you need evaporator rust. vinegar has flash rust issues. evapo rust real effective and biodegradable soak and rinse ...rust gone. I use it on sports car vintage parts. evapo rust,. marvel is good for so many things but as a rust remover ? Not it's strong point. Mental patients might think it's cough syrup so please keep it from them .
If the instructions said to use it as you did, it's junk but if you could try again as Kenn Baker suggested and provide an update on the results, Please.
Vinegar works great. I've de-rusted a bunch of hand tools with vinegar but I'd let them soak for a day or so and then use a wire brush to finish it off. Works great but it does give some metals a grayish patina type of look which doesn't affect the tools at all. In fact it looks kind of cool.
maybe you should try soaking the steel in MMO as you did the Viniger? I mean you didn't even compare them equally, you soaked in Viniger, but just dabbed MMO. LETTS COMAIR APPLES TO APPLES HERE!
Did you try soaking the piece in the MMO? That MIGHT have been a better test! I have NO idea whether that would work but, with the vinegar, you did give it at least 10 minutes! The MMO,, not so much time! Thanks for the great videos! I just subscribed, again, as I have a new page! I subscribed with my old one, too!
Vinegar does a real good job if you soak the item(submerged) for 24 to 48 hours. I have cleaned old rusted ax heads and antique wrenches by soaking them over night. Good video and thank you!!
Mix mystery oil with 100% acetone nail polish remover professional strength and it's coming off fast thanks for the video😁👍👍 plus abrasive plumbing sandpaper
I had a John Deere 345 lawn tractor that would start then stop, start then stop, about the 14 try the mower would start and blow smoke for a while then run OK. I repaired that problem cleaning a small electric solenoid on the carburetor but the next year i had the same problem, the mower would start then stop again. I put some Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas and it solved the problem. Now it starts great every time. I now use the Mystery Oil in all my cars. I even mix it with my oil. Great Product.
Porter greetings. I’ve used diesel to soak & clean items for many years. I do use it to clean tools. My oldest brother introduced that method to me when I was a teenager. He informed me that truckers would polish their tanks and other pieces with it. Now I’ve never used it to polish fuel tanks, but I might try it in 5he future. Hmmm…maybe sooner than later.
I put MMO in a spray bottle and spray the parts of my car i'll be working on, A COUPLE DAYS IN ADVANCE.. IT melts away the grease and rust. no lie. Had a mechanic replace the leaf springs in my 1998 tacoma, and he said that the bolts came off super easy, like they were new. I had been spraying MMO on daily for a couple weeks before i brought the truck to him.
We always stock Marvel Mystery Oil in all our Offshore Boxes in the Diving Industry. It works wonders on loosening seized parts and yest it can help loosen and remove rust. If you carefully look at the first part of the video the rust was removed quite a bit. Nothing can restore the lost metal.
I been using mystery oil for 25 years.. It does a great job as a penetrating lubricant. Don't let the miracle part make you think it can eat rust like acid can!
vinager does work be wary of using on items that have been chromed....it will.remove it....oh in this case on old chrome the oil.will clean but use a soft rag and its not quick
I'd bet if you did the paper towel thing with the mmo, you'd have had a similar result. I've put mmo in seized engines over night. And been able to turn over them over by hand the following morning.
Thanks Zack for your attempt to try . I never heard of this method. So apparently the one must have been pulling the others leg for what ever his reasons. But you proved it don't work.
Zack, try this method, soak the paper towels in vinegar and place them over the parts to be treated then wrap the parts with the vinegar soaked paper with cling film to stop the vinegar drying out and leave over night and see what the results are like the next day.
Yes vinegar is the bomb-Marvel was never meant to remove rust. Add quite a bit of salt to your vinegar solution and it even works better and won't break the bank.
The lens on your camera is dirty, which causes the pictures of your face under the shop lights to have flare, little contrast and look a little out of focus. Thanks for testing MMO, and the vinegar. I bought a gallon jug of 30% vinegar several years ago, which I still use, and which really attacks rust, but can be diluted if necessary, or use a few ounces to double the power of household white vinegar. Citric acid also works; it comes in a bag in powder form, and can be easily mixed up to the strength and temperature that works for you. Evaporust also works, but you have to soak it for a while, and the hotter the solution, the quicker it will work- don't boil it, just get it up 150F to 180F as suggested by Truckladders. The 3 gallon size comes with a parts holder that you can raise up out of the solution and let the chemical drain through the holes back into the bucket - makes it easier to check the progress when cleaning lots of parts. Use a brass or bronze brush to clean the gunk off. If you leave any of these chemicals in a plastic bucket outside in the bright sun, it'll heat the solution up pretty good. Some people, who do a lot of rust removal, buy a device that can heat up the solution while using ultrasonic vibrations to make the rust and dirt fall off. They're great for cleaning carburetors, etc., but get one that's big enough. The largest ones cost big bucks, but you can get a dented one cheaper from Amazon Warehouse, if they have what you need on hand, which is what I did- by using points and the discounted price, I got a 2.5 gallon one for about $67 delivered instead of about $167.00 for a brand new one with free delivery, but add sales tax. With any of these methods, if the item is really dirty and rusty, you will need to remove the item after the first ten minutes or so, to remove the first layer of scum that comes off. After that, check it ten minutes later to see if you need to wipe off the scum again. Quickly wash and/or brush off any of the items you remove from any of these solutions at the end, then dry the item with a paper towel or shop rag and oil it up immediately. Flash rust can occur a lot quicker than you'd think possible after drying it off, if you don't apply some type of oil immediately.
I just used vinegar and salt to remove rust from a rusted Millers Falls No. 22 plane. I took the plane apart and put the iron and steel parts in a bath of vinegar and salt and left it for a few days and then rinsed it off. Next, I have to remove the paint, I think I'll use brake fluid for that.
50 year ago when I worked in a paint and body shop we used a solution of phosphoric acid to remove the surface rust from panels. It worked well and fast. It was a commercial product and I'm not sure of the actual composition. Ask someone in the business. It worked so well I freed up a pair of very rusted up lineman's pliers in a few minutes.
As many have pointed out the dwell time of the two was completely different. Having said that I think vinegar is hard to beat. I use non distilled vinegar, more acids and other good bits. For tools I use stainless steel steel wool for heavy rust. A green scuff pad for lighter. The vinegar works because it is a acid, not a very strong one. I find it takes a bit longer then the stronger acids but is safer to use and won't eat clothing. If a bucket of vinegar tips over not a real big deal, other then the smell, a bucket of battery acid on the other hand is a serious mess. Better have a lot of baking soda on hand.
lol well said regarding the bucket of battery acid, on another note I did do some followup with a 24hr soak in the MMO, here's a link to it go check it out ua-cam.com/video/rDaPK9Ej684/v-deo.html
I've used it to remove rust from chrome motorcycle parts. Have to let it sit on it. I soak a rag and drape it on whatever I'm working on and come back the next day.
I use 1/3 of an oz. per gallon of gas when I fill up my tank on a Rotary 1.3L engine. Also added to my motor oil and my truck has 293,000 miles and still runs strong on a 4.6 Ford. You have to give it time to work. I unseized an engine; but it took 3 days of sitting.
Hey Dan, that's a fair observation. I actually did do a little further testing and shared the results in this video ua-cam.com/video/rDaPK9Ej684/v-deo.html
check out a channel aquachigger, he finds and restores civil war relics. He uses electrolysis, like you did on the ax head, then marinades them in hot bees wax to seal the metal. His restoration stuff is in his earlier videos.
Try scrubbing vinegar off with backing soda paste, Soda neutralizes the vinegar and gives you a good abrasive at the same time that won't scratch metal / Baking soda and water or vinegar.
Try Whink Rust Stain remover, from Target $4.99 16 oz. Just saw a video with this product used in a rust and hard water stain. Less time scrubbing and no whistling in the background! 😁👍
I used Naval Jelly on rust rings in my toilets (I'm on a well, it's an issue). Naval Jelly is fairly thick so it will stay put pretty well, even on porcelain. Hard, crusty iron oxide ring comes right off after 20-30 min dwell time. Apply with a acid brush or small paint brush. Use green Scotch Brite on difficult areas then wipe it out with paper towel and flush. Done. Not particularly caustic or toxic, very little smell. But use gloves anyway.
Porter greetings. 😎 I have a trailer that needs the roof rust removed. Vinegar might be good for that…soak some towels in vinegar and leave them on for about 1 day. The heat from the sun might help some as well, right? Better than diesel fuel. Hey, if you want to try it on a metal roof, or simulated roof, go for it. Good stuff. 🤩😎
I had afriend that bought up old machine tools 30 years ago. H would bring them home and more or less paint them with old used motor oil. I am an old tool maker, retired for a few years and had never heard of or used this method of cleaning rust tooling. He after puting the motor oil on would let it set for a few days then clean off the oil with a scothbrite pad and solvent. He would end up with a rust free very usabl tool. In fact I bought a Sout bend lathe that had bee very rusty and a couple of oyher tool to use in my shop, not bonly were they cleen but hel good tolerances!
soak it for 2 days or so, in - "CLR Calcium Lime Rust Remover", but if the material is cheap stuff it can dissolve it. I'd try it on a saw blade, I guess.
hi, restore old tools and i use apple cider vinegar works very well. but the best thing for me is plain water. i use a tall bucket and hang the saw handles through a piece of steel bar that way you can get around 5 saws in there. leave for a couple of days,remove the saws and dry them off and oil them with wd40. use some fine wet and dry sand paper with wd40 to remove any hard to get off rust and sand in small circular motions you can put rusty old spanners and files into water for a couple of days take out and dry clean and oil. you will be very pleased with the results cheers Shayne
Use a brass wire wheel, clean it up,.. then you wipe it down with either grease wit detergent in it, or automatic transmission fluid with detergent in it. And hang it up for a year, ATF you will apply a few times a year.
Try that Citrix hand cleaner. The orange pump bottle. Find it nearly everywhere.. works nicely. Gets rust stains out of your clothes when added to laundry as well.
White Viegar has worked for me. Just give what ever a over night soak and scrub later with a Green Pad. Never put dislike metals in the soak together . Electrolysis sets up and can make things go away.
Yeah I agree that white vinegar is a very good alternative. Another think I learned the hard way is that with white vinegar you don't want to have your item sticking out because at the surface of the vinegar the reaction is more vigorous and can etch a line on your item.
MM oil may not remove rust but I have found nothing better for a stuck hydraulic lifter and carbon deposit remover on the valve train. I like to run a pt. or so for say 200-300 miles before an oil change and lifter valve sticking has ceased to be a problem.
Any experiment has value, even if you learn how not to do something. MMO is great stuff for certain jobs but I'd use another method for rust removal. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you James for that view of the experiment, that's the view I took of it but it seems to be lost on most who watch and almost all who comment on this video lol.
I’m such a girl I’m watching this video being thoroughly entertained by the cute little bug that hung out the whole time.😅 great video though…thanks I’ll try the vinegar on my bed frame.
Money better spent would be using phosphoric acid, my favorite being Ospho. At Painting supply stores, cheap, no rubbing and can be painted right over!
For something like that saw just hit it with a 4.5" grinder running a stainless brush wheel. Gone and done but the pits left behind. To really get it soak the thing in a plastic bag filled with electrolysis solution . Give it a few days and then you are ready to wash clean and oil the thing.
just google Electrolysis rust removal on youtube. Several ways all about the same. Just need a non conductive, plastic is great bucket and soe old heavy sheet or hunks of steel . Add some Washing Soda (Arm & Hammer from grocery store) and hook to 12 volt battery. I have used a battery charger but it has a sensor so won't kick out the amps so its better to just use an old battery . If needed put the charger on the battery but keep it on there so there is good output. That will clean out the rust right down to the pit bases. Then oil it up after immediately drying Not much abrasion beyond a tooth brush necessary to clean up either . The solution looks / smells nasty but can be used over and over if you want to keep it but it's so cheap using a couple tablespoons of wash powder to a bucket why bother. If you aren't interested in preserving something as antique ect the 4.5"grinder and a cup wheel is a great way to start. Knock off all the surface stuff with that and finish with electrolysis its faster / better.
Best/cheapest rust remover is Molasses and water if you have the time and patience to let it soak for several days or a week or more. Go to the feed store and buy in bulk to get cheapest stuff. (and the best working) AND it's not acidic, won't hurt wood,plastic, rubber, etc. Iron rust only
I probably shouldn't share this (drive up the price), MM is the best hand cleaner out there. Got gas or ground in oil or grease, rub MM into your grabbers and the cleaning happens quickly, leaving no foul smell. Then use soap and water. Thank me later.
I have used Marvel mystery oil for rust removal, you are SUPPOSED to SOAK whatever you are trying to remove the rust from . Sometimes it takes overnight but you won't have to be scrubbing. Just make sure you remove all other parts of the item that aren't made of metal. Then it works perfectly.
I'll try it.
Iron oxide(rust) is a process that occurs over time and in layers, if you soak your parts in a heated solution(180"f ) for a period of 6hrs you will have different results Iron oxide is not a topical condition but a deterioration of the base metal Heat opens the grain structure allowing the solvents to penetrate
Zack, I’ve been into old tools for a long while, and some antique collectors spaz out on us cleaner uppers of tools. Now, I rarely restore any tool to original condition and merely clean up the tool to working condition. Early on I just used some basic stuff like steel wool, different grades of wet or dry sandpaper, and lots of elbow grease. I tried electrolysis which worked great, but it’s kind of a fussy project, but works very well on rust. Then I tried Evapo-rust which works great also, but is a little pricey. Finally, I tried straight old vinegar. Cheap and the best way for me, so good that that is ALL I use. The most important thing using a liquid like vinegar is total submersion. If you don’t fully cover the object, a line will develop where the vinegar level is, and when you flip it over, it’ll be a mess. I’ve watched folks on UA-cam try electrolysis, Evaporust, and vinegar and they’ll say she's a no work. It worked, but you have to let it soak for 24 hours and you MUST wire brush the item as soon as it comes out of the liquid. I just use some Dawn liquid and one of those 1” stainless steel or brass, hand held brushes from Harbor Freight. Ta-da! No rust! I let most stuff soak for 24 hours and the results are perfect. The vinegar and wire brush will get pitted rust out of the pits. Rarely do I ever have to do it twice.
I’m no expert on anything, but this works. Hand plane chip breakers are notorious for pitted surfaces, and while the pits remain, the rust is no more. I dry the object with a rag and place it on my gas stove burner, let it heat for just a little bit, to drive out the moisture, let it cool completely, and rub it down with some oil, wipe it off, and it’s done. Give it a try. And best to you!
I would consider a brass bristle brush, too. Minimally invasive on steel, and it doesn't swirl as bad as sandpaper or steel bristles. A bench grinder is ideal, but a hand brush or drill mounted brush works too.
marvel had many many uses. I used it for years as a carberator cleaner mixed 1/1 with acetone. I use it for sharpening knifes, used in firearms and many other shop uses. it truly is a shop staple
It is good stuff for a lot of things.
add to mower gas ... wow it works great
I have used a product called Evaporust on ax heads, hand saws, car and tractor parts - also doesn't remove the paint (if there's any on it) to match up for repainting
Is that the same as redex
Any tips to fast paint remover
Doing up a wooden guitar body don't want to sand might change guitar profile
Great video, I use MMO for lots of uses but didn't know it could be used to remove rust!
Thanks for adding the vinegar bit! So many videos show a methodology that doesn’t turn out working and it’s kind of a let down. You are the only one I’ve seen so far recognize this and show a method that is successful. It’s a small detail that makes a big difference, like and subscribe button pressed!
For most of the various oil methods in rust removal, it's the rust you're picking up in the oil as you scrub that's the abrasive to remove the other rust. Works better on light stuff though. Wadded aluminum foil also helps it along, as it's a softer metal than steel.
Thats a good point and a fair observation.
I appreciate you taking your time trying to provide good useful information. They are more bogus videos that won't work than videos that are useful, even when you post a video trying to prove or disprove a video you catch hell from smart asses but most people are thankful for your help but there always has to be a know it all in the bunch pointing out what you should and shouldn't do.If they know that much they should do their own video. Thanks for your videos.
In the past I had always used it, and steel wool, on a drill. Considering the fact that if it has taken years to rust you cannot even expect the rest to just easily disappear.
My father was a big believer in Marvel mystery oil. He grew up on a farm in western Oklahoma. He always said that it was an excellent upper cylinder lube.
Actually, ANY light oil with steel Wool has worked the same, I use it on guns when I find a rusty spot from storing it in the closet.
Sir , I really do love your music in the back ground
Try a combination of paint thinner and a bit of oil mixed together. Will it work any better than Marvel? Likely not because it's the same thing. Try putting a quart of paint thinner (pure mineral spirits) in your gas tank along with a bit of two stroke oil. My old van seems to like that once in a while. It sure began to idle nice and run smooth.
it works great if you soak the parts for 2 days on ferrous non-ferrous metal plated or not
I guess maybe I just didn't let I soak long enough. It'll be revisited for sure.
When you use vinegar do you just put a drop on the rust and start scrubbing like a mental patient? No, you soak it overnight, sometimes for several days.
Valid point about the soak time, it was something I didn't think about while filming this.
Mental patients are notorious for having rusty tools- don't trust them.
Kenn Baker that's so funny .But you need evaporator rust. vinegar has flash rust issues. evapo rust real effective and biodegradable soak and rinse ...rust gone. I use it on sports car vintage parts. evapo rust,. marvel is good for so many things but as a rust remover ? Not it's strong point. Mental patients might think it's cough syrup so please keep it from them .
I saw a video where a guy left it for 19 months, most of the tools were thin and destroyed, not very useful anymore but it was neat to see.
If the instructions said to use it as you did, it's junk but if you could try again as Kenn Baker suggested and provide an update on the results, Please.
Vinegar works great. I've de-rusted a bunch of hand tools with vinegar but I'd let them soak for a day or so and then use a wire brush to finish it off. Works great but it does give some metals a grayish patina type of look which doesn't affect the tools at all. In fact it looks kind of cool.
I've used MMO on engines that won't turn over from years of setting idle. But they did have to sit for a couple of weeks for it to work.
That's a good point.
The old Rust stand by Navel Jelly still works to remove any rust etc.
That's in the hopper for the next time I try this. Thanks for the suggestion!
I buy marvel mystery oil by the gallon and use it for light oil like 3in one. I use it as a oil and gas additive too. Rust removal ? soak maybe ?
Yeah, it was a failed experiment but a useful one nonetheless. Now I know, and you know for sure that it doesnt work :-)
I have used vinegar soak several times. It works well but needs time to work. I want to try using electrolyte and a battery charger.
Your video is inspiring. I can think of a multitude of solutions that don't work.
You allowed 6 hours for the oxiclean to work by not give the Marvel Oil an the Vinegar equal time..??
maybe you should try soaking the steel in MMO as you did the Viniger? I mean you didn't even compare them equally, you soaked in Viniger, but just dabbed MMO. LETTS COMAIR APPLES TO APPLES HERE!
+Jonathan burgsteiner that my friend is a very valid point. Will give it a shot.
Did you try soaking the piece in the MMO? That MIGHT have been a better test! I have NO idea whether that would work but, with the vinegar, you did give it at least 10 minutes! The MMO,, not so much time! Thanks for the great videos! I just subscribed, again, as I have a new page! I subscribed with my old one, too!
Vinegar does a real good job if you soak the item(submerged) for 24 to 48 hours. I have cleaned old rusted ax heads and antique wrenches by soaking them over night. Good video and thank you!!
Mix mystery oil with 100% acetone nail polish remover professional strength and it's coming off fast thanks for the video😁👍👍 plus abrasive plumbing sandpaper
I keep a gallon of white vinegar and a gallon of lacquer thinner in the house at all times . Great stuff ! TheReaper!
Yes and yes, I also like to have a bottle of Ronsonol lighter fluid, gets goop off like crazy
I had a John Deere 345 lawn tractor that would start then stop, start then stop, about the 14 try the mower would start and blow smoke for a while then run OK. I repaired that problem cleaning a small electric solenoid on the carburetor but the next year i had the same problem, the mower would start then stop again. I put some Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas and it solved the problem. Now it starts great every time. I now use the Mystery Oil in all my cars. I even mix it with my oil. Great Product.
it really is good stuff, just no good for effortlessly removing rust from old tools.
How do you get pliers unstuck
I prefer to use a diesel oil soak on rusty items, works a treat every time.
Porter greetings. I’ve used diesel to soak & clean items for many years. I do use it to clean tools. My oldest brother introduced that method to me when I was a teenager. He informed me that truckers would polish their tanks and other pieces with it. Now I’ve never used it to polish fuel tanks, but I might try it in 5he future. Hmmm…maybe sooner than later.
I put MMO in a spray bottle and spray the parts of my car i'll be working on, A COUPLE DAYS IN ADVANCE.. IT melts away the grease and rust. no lie. Had a mechanic replace the leaf springs in my 1998 tacoma, and he said that the bolts came off super easy, like they were new. I had been spraying MMO on daily for a couple weeks before i brought the truck to him.
Evapo rust works wonders. You have to let the parts soak in it
Are you supposed to steep it in it for a few hours or days then wipe off
check out the pinned comment up top ^^^^^^^^^
We always stock Marvel Mystery Oil in all our Offshore Boxes in the Diving Industry. It works wonders on loosening seized parts and yest it can help loosen and remove rust. If you carefully look at the first part of the video the rust was removed quite a bit. Nothing can restore the lost metal.
Yeah, I think maybe I started off with an erroneous expectation. It's certainly not worthless.
you should leave over night gear oil work,s ok if left day or 2 .
Quick-glo is one of my favorites give it a try.
Thanks for that suggestion Dave, I'll give it a try.
Wood Butcher Dave
Wood Butcher Dave Quik-Glo is for chrome, brass and such, not steel.
I been using mystery oil for 25 years.. It does a great job as a penetrating lubricant. Don't let the miracle part make you think it can eat rust like acid can!
Well it worked well on my golf clubs and golf shafts. The club heads are chrome plated.
Im glad to hear that it did, maybe Ill give it another shot if i have a chrome item thats rusted.
I would say it may work better as a rust preventative, need some ospho to get rid of the rust instantly.
I wonder how well muratic acid would work. Or even hydrochloric acid....
I dunno, maybe I'll give it a shot some time
leave that saw in a bucket of vinegar for 4-5 days, take it out use some sandpaper and it will look brand new
vinager does work be wary of using on items that have been chromed....it will.remove it....oh in this case on old chrome the oil.will clean but use a soft rag and its not quick
I'd bet if you did the paper towel thing with the mmo, you'd have had a similar result. I've put mmo in seized engines over night. And been able to turn over them over by hand the following morning.
Thanks Zack for your attempt to try . I never heard of this method. So apparently the one must have been pulling the others leg for what ever his reasons. But you proved it don't work.
Zack, try this method, soak the paper towels in vinegar and place them over the parts to be treated then wrap the parts with the vinegar soaked paper with cling film to stop the vinegar drying out and leave over night and see what the results are like the next day.
What about using some steel Wool along with that Mystery Oil.?
Another good idea
I tried a lot of stuff out there the best is doctor X rust remover worth the money
marvel mystery oil is great for UN sticking engines but i like vinegar the best for rust removal cause its cheap and effective
Yes vinegar is the bomb-Marvel was never meant to remove rust. Add quite a bit of salt to your vinegar solution and it even works better and won't break the bank.
The lens on your camera is dirty, which causes the pictures of your face under the shop lights to have flare, little contrast and look a little out of focus. Thanks for testing MMO, and the vinegar. I bought a gallon jug of 30% vinegar several years ago, which I still use, and which really attacks rust, but can be diluted if necessary, or use a few ounces to double the power of household white vinegar. Citric acid also works; it comes in a bag in powder form, and can be easily mixed up to the strength and temperature that works for you. Evaporust also works, but you have to soak it for a while, and the hotter the solution, the quicker it will work- don't boil it, just get it up 150F to 180F as suggested by Truckladders. The 3 gallon size comes with a parts holder that you can raise up out of the solution and let the chemical drain through the holes back into the bucket - makes it easier to check the progress when cleaning lots of parts. Use a brass or bronze brush to clean the gunk off. If you leave any of these chemicals in a plastic bucket outside in the bright sun, it'll heat the solution up pretty good.
Some people, who do a lot of rust removal, buy a device that can heat up the solution while using ultrasonic vibrations to make the rust and dirt fall off. They're great for cleaning carburetors, etc., but get one that's big enough. The largest ones cost big bucks, but you can get a dented one cheaper from Amazon Warehouse, if they have what you need on hand, which is what I did- by using points and the discounted price, I got a 2.5 gallon one for about $67 delivered instead of about $167.00 for a brand new one with free delivery, but add sales tax.
With any of these methods, if the item is really dirty and rusty, you will need to remove the item after the first ten minutes or so, to remove the first layer of scum that comes off. After that, check it ten minutes later to see if you need to wipe off the scum again. Quickly wash and/or brush off any of the items you remove from any of these solutions at the end, then dry the item with a paper towel or shop rag and oil it up immediately. Flash rust can occur a lot quicker than you'd think possible after drying it off, if you don't apply some type of oil immediately.
I just used vinegar and salt to remove rust from a rusted Millers Falls No. 22 plane. I took the plane apart and put the iron and steel parts in a bath of vinegar and salt and left it for a few days and then rinsed it off. Next, I have to remove the paint, I think I'll use brake fluid for that.
Gray Scotchbrite to scratchy?
I would use diesel fuel! But everyone has a good theory of their own, I'm open to try anything that will work.
50 year ago when I worked in a paint and body shop we used a solution of phosphoric acid to remove the surface rust from panels. It worked well and fast. It was a commercial product and I'm not sure of the actual composition. Ask someone in the business. It worked so well I freed up a pair of very rusted up lineman's pliers in a few minutes.
No kidding, I'll keep an eye out for it, I have a pretty good paint/body supply house pretty close.
As many have pointed out the dwell time of the two was completely different. Having said that I think vinegar is hard to beat. I use non distilled vinegar, more acids and other good bits. For tools I use stainless steel steel wool for heavy rust. A green scuff pad for lighter. The vinegar works because it is a acid, not a very strong one. I find it takes a bit longer then the stronger acids but is safer to use and won't eat clothing. If a bucket of vinegar tips over not a real big deal, other then the smell, a bucket of battery acid on the other hand is a serious mess. Better have a lot of baking soda on hand.
lol well said regarding the bucket of battery acid, on another note I did do some followup with a 24hr soak in the MMO, here's a link to it go check it out ua-cam.com/video/rDaPK9Ej684/v-deo.html
I've used it to remove rust from chrome motorcycle parts. Have to let it sit on it. I soak a rag and drape it on whatever I'm working on and come back the next day.
thats something that I haven't tried, removing rust from chrome with MMO. maybe that works better.
I use 1/3 of an oz. per gallon of gas when I fill up my tank on a Rotary 1.3L engine. Also added to my motor oil and my truck has 293,000 miles and still runs strong on a 4.6 Ford. You have to give it time to work. I unseized an engine; but it took 3 days of sitting.
you have to let it sit for a while before you rube it so fast, try it once again and let me know. thanks
Hey Dan, that's a fair observation. I actually did do a little further testing and shared the results in this video ua-cam.com/video/rDaPK9Ej684/v-deo.html
Fantasy is an understatement~!!
check out a channel aquachigger, he finds and restores civil war relics. He uses electrolysis, like you did on the ax head, then marinades them in hot bees wax to seal the metal. His restoration stuff is in his earlier videos.
Try scrubbing vinegar off with backing soda paste, Soda neutralizes the vinegar and gives you a good abrasive at the same time that won't scratch metal / Baking soda and water or vinegar.
I never thought of the abrasive qualities of using baking soda, good idea.
A bench grinder wire wheel and Mothers Aluminum Polish works too
+Billyonaire I don't disagree, here's a link to the way I got it done. ua-cam.com/video/rDaPK9Ej684/v-deo.html
Try Whink Rust Stain remover, from Target $4.99 16 oz.
Just saw a video with this product used in a rust and hard water stain. Less time scrubbing and no whistling in the background! 😁👍
I used Naval Jelly on rust rings in my toilets (I'm on a well, it's an issue). Naval Jelly is fairly thick so it will stay put pretty well, even on porcelain. Hard, crusty iron oxide ring comes right off after 20-30 min dwell time. Apply with a acid brush or small paint brush. Use green Scotch Brite on difficult areas then wipe it out with paper towel and flush. Done. Not particularly caustic or toxic, very little smell. But use gloves anyway.
I saw a video where the guy put a bit on wadded up aluminum foil and rubbed with that.
I have also heard of that, I'll have to give it a try.
Porter greetings. 😎 I have a trailer that needs the roof rust removed. Vinegar might be good for that…soak some towels in vinegar and leave them on for about 1 day. The heat from the sun might help some as well, right? Better than diesel fuel. Hey, if you want to try it on a metal roof, or simulated roof, go for it. Good stuff. 🤩😎
naval jelly also works
I'll give it a try
Thank you !!.
Dot 3 brake fluid works pretty good on rusty metal
+Jeff Ziolkowski thanks for that. I'll be giving it a try shortly.
I had afriend that bought up old machine tools 30 years ago. H would bring them home and more or less paint them with old used motor oil. I am an old tool maker, retired for a few years and had never heard of or used this method of cleaning rust tooling. He after puting the motor oil on would let it set for a few days then clean off the oil with a scothbrite pad and solvent. He would end up with a rust free very usabl tool. In fact I bought a Sout bend lathe that had bee very rusty and a couple of oyher tool to use in my shop, not bonly were they cleen but hel good tolerances!
soak it for 2 days or so, in - "CLR Calcium Lime Rust Remover", but if the material is cheap stuff it can dissolve it. I'd try it on a saw blade, I guess.
rust never sleeps
Try Brasso and rub with screwed up kitchen foil
hi,
restore old tools and i use apple cider vinegar works very well.
but the best thing for me is plain water.
i use a tall bucket and hang the saw handles through a piece of steel bar that way you can get around 5 saws in there.
leave for a couple of days,remove the saws and dry them off and oil them with wd40.
use some fine wet and dry sand paper with wd40 to remove any hard to get off rust and sand in small circular motions
you can put rusty old spanners and files into water for a couple of days take out and dry clean and oil.
you will be very pleased with the results
cheers
Shayne
That's an interesting suggestion Shayne, I'll look into it!
Use Evaporust. Overnight that plane would look like new. No scrubbing.
Think you can find it on amazon for $20 5L
I wonder why they put pesticide in MMO
Well done video.
Thank you Phil, I really appreciate that.
MMO is so great in mower gas here in Florida.
The first thing that I mite ask you is what do you expect out of using Marvel Mistery Oil . It is what it is . gb* ~ hard life (MULDEW)
Use a brass wire wheel, clean it up,.. then you wipe it down with either grease wit detergent in it, or automatic transmission fluid with detergent in it. And hang it up for a year, ATF you will apply a few times a year.
sound like a solid option
I got a WD-40 ad before this video lol
Might help if you let it soak for a day or so.
Try that Citrix hand cleaner. The orange pump bottle. Find it nearly everywhere.. works nicely. Gets rust stains out of your clothes when added to laundry as well.
let it set freed my 1964 t100 triumph motor up.And it set out side for a year.And storage for 29yrs.Took two weeks me putting it in
I'll give it a shot. Followup video coming soon.
White Viegar has worked for me. Just give what ever a over night soak and scrub later with a Green Pad. Never put dislike metals in the soak together . Electrolysis sets up and can make things go away.
Yeah I agree that white vinegar is a very good alternative. Another think I learned the hard way is that with white vinegar you don't want to have your item sticking out because at the surface of the vinegar the reaction is more vigorous and can etch a line on your item.
Yep! It etches for sure. NEVER put dislike metals in the bath at the same time.
Oil reduces friction. Friction and abrasion are the same thing
Thanks
muriatic acid will get rid of all rust but you have to treat the surface soon after with clear coat or whatever
That's the second time I've been told that today, looks like I'll have to check it out.
MM oil may not remove rust but I have found nothing better for a stuck hydraulic lifter and carbon deposit remover on the valve train. I like to run a pt. or so for say 200-300 miles before an oil change and lifter valve sticking has ceased to be a problem.
ChuckHydro yg
Any experiment has value, even if you learn how not to do something. MMO is great stuff for certain jobs but I'd use another method for rust removal. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you James for that view of the experiment, that's the view I took of it but it seems to be lost on most who watch and almost all who comment on this video lol.
Jim Zivny &6
Ketchup does a great job.
Try Ketchup on rusty electronics
I’m such a girl I’m watching this video being thoroughly entertained by the cute little bug that hung out the whole time.😅 great video though…thanks I’ll try the vinegar on my bed frame.
can I use this on my pickup truck
Depending upon how you plan to use it, I'd say you absolutely can, just not sure what results you'll get, or what results you're hoping for :)
Ok ☺️☺️
Money better spent would be using phosphoric acid, my favorite being Ospho. At Painting supply stores, cheap, no rubbing and can be painted right over!
if you're cleaning up copper or brass use Brasso
works damn good in the gas tank!!!
+Conservative America indeed it does!
For something like that saw just hit it with a 4.5" grinder running a stainless brush wheel. Gone and done but the pits left behind. To really get it soak the thing in a plastic bag filled with electrolysis solution . Give it a few days and then you are ready to wash clean and oil the thing.
I'd never thought of the SS brush, might have to give that a shot. Is there a recipe for the electrolysis solution that you speak of?
just google Electrolysis rust removal on youtube. Several ways all about the same. Just need a non conductive, plastic is great bucket and soe old heavy sheet or hunks of steel . Add some Washing Soda (Arm & Hammer from grocery store) and hook to 12 volt battery. I have used a battery charger but it has a sensor so won't kick out the amps so its better to just use an old battery . If needed put the charger on the battery but keep it on there so there is good output.
That will clean out the rust right down to the pit bases. Then oil it up after immediately drying Not much abrasion beyond a tooth brush necessary to clean up either . The solution looks / smells nasty but can be used over and over if you want to keep it but it's so cheap using a couple tablespoons of wash powder to a bucket why bother.
If you aren't interested in preserving something as antique ect the 4.5"grinder and a cup wheel is a great way to start. Knock off all the surface stuff with that and finish with electrolysis its faster / better.
ever see the guy that uses moelasses for rust removal ? (sorry for spelling)
Oh crap, I thought they said mole asses.Poor little critters.
Best/cheapest rust remover is Molasses and water if you have the time and patience to let it soak for several days or a week or more. Go to the feed store and buy in bulk to get cheapest stuff. (and the best working) AND it's not acidic, won't hurt wood,plastic, rubber, etc. Iron rust only
I probably shouldn't share this (drive up the price), MM is the best hand cleaner out there. Got gas or ground in oil or grease, rub MM into your grabbers and the cleaning happens quickly, leaving no foul smell. Then use soap and water.
Thank me later.
how about if I just go ahead and thank you preemptively! That's awesome.
Well then, You're welcome Zack. I like the minty smell that replaces the odor of gasoline.
WD40 is mega hand cleaner/degreaser too.
MM has WD40 beat because it leaves your hands with a minty smell. Even removes gasoline odor. Thanks Shawn.
pussy