I have a 4500.1 pushing two12s and one 10 all kicker comps wired at 1.3 ohms. I had it metered at a local shop and it did mid 900s in wattage dynamically at 2.5 ohms. I have very little rise thanks to my personally designed enclosure in a single cab f150. The cobalt line is budget friendly but works great. However the street line is really cheaply made and for roughly the same price , you can pick up one of the cobalt line. I strongly believe someone would not be disappointed.
I have a cobalt 3200.1D and printed on the far side (across) is 6400watts (class D mono channel 1 omh stable). Back '15 when I had more money than I had sense I paid over $400.⁰⁰ (don't laugh) from the local radio shack. And they told me 2x 12" kicker comp would be a good setup.... Well it was until around 6 months... Today, I guess I'm going through a middle age crisis because I ordered 1-15" 1000rms and 2x 10" 500rms ea. I'm installing it in the back of a 2000 Accord sedan. I've already replaced the 4 OEM 6x9s with 520w 4 way speakers. I took the backseat out today and I think I won't have to cut anything out the backseat supports. 15 in the center. The section of the seat where you sit I'm building an enclosure for the 10s and 2x 8" subs. Im debating on having the 8s down firing on the 10s facing forward. I will be reinstalling both halves of the backseat. It'll be a little higher than stock but I'm hoping not much. I also installed a 5 band EQ with aux and a channel just for subs. I'm thinking I'm going to have to add an amp for the 6x9's and run more than 2 tweets in the dashboard or in the windshield post.... What do you think??
I did have it pushing 2-12s, 1-10, and 4-6.5sthe twelves ,ten, and 2-6.5s were kicker and 2-6.5s are lanzar max. It would hit so hard that it would tickle my nose when I would breathe. Never got HOT or went into protect. I fed, and still feed it 14-14.4 volts consistently. With an upgraded alternator and proper wire size with a strong battery under hood feeding a secondary smaller battery which then feeds a 5 farad cap. My voltage never drops below 14 even when going hard.
I bought the 3500.4 to run 4 ds18 3.5in Kevlar conned mids and a pair of 6x9s and it does decent job but as most class ab amps it gets hot and I knew before I purchased it that 3500.4 wasn't going to do near that kinda power.....but like I said for the money i was surprised how good musically it sounds ...but I figure if it does about 150 x4 possibly 200 x4..
Yes another channel dyno numbers were higher at 1400 rms @ 1 ohm 13.77 certified pulling 140 amps and 1600 rms @ 1 ohm 13.79 dynamic. I'm calling bs on this video because the video shows 99 amps pulled at 758. Get another amm 1 or do the dyno at 1 ohm not 2 ohm. Try again sir 🤣🤣🤣
I got into the same thing with the orion3000.1Dsplx. Rated 3000, I ran it at .5 ohm and hurt my subs. Stupid thing was makin over 10,000. Unacceptable marketing
Technically it's not "false advertising". They created that wattage once in a lab somewhere with a 200amp power supply and some luck, more than likely using 80hz as their base.
Everyone knows the xtr and hcca do over rated hell the hcca 3k does like 9k dynamic lol. The z street and colbalt super budget buy biggest one expect 1/3 power. Gain knob isn’t a power knob
I have a 4500.1 pushing two12s and one 10 all kicker comps wired at 1.3 ohms. I had it metered at a local shop and it did mid 900s in wattage dynamically at 2.5 ohms. I have very little rise thanks to my personally designed enclosure in a single cab f150. The cobalt line is budget friendly but works great. However the street line is really cheaply made and for roughly the same price , you can pick up one of the cobalt line. I strongly believe someone would not be disappointed.
I have a cobalt 3200.1D and printed on the far side (across) is 6400watts (class D mono channel 1 omh stable). Back '15 when I had more money than I had sense I paid over $400.⁰⁰ (don't laugh) from the local radio shack. And they told me 2x 12" kicker comp would be a good setup.... Well it was until around 6 months...
Today, I guess I'm going through a middle age crisis because I ordered 1-15" 1000rms and 2x 10" 500rms ea. I'm installing it in the back of a 2000 Accord sedan. I've already replaced the 4 OEM 6x9s with 520w 4 way speakers. I took the backseat out today and I think I won't have to cut anything out the backseat supports. 15 in the center. The section of the seat where you sit I'm building an enclosure for the 10s and 2x 8" subs. Im debating on having the 8s down firing on the 10s facing forward. I will be reinstalling both halves of the backseat. It'll be a little higher than stock but I'm hoping not much. I also installed a 5 band EQ with aux and a channel just for subs. I'm thinking I'm going to have to add an amp for the 6x9's and run more than 2 tweets in the dashboard or in the windshield post.... What do you think??
i have it pushing 3 skar sdr 12s and its very loud, however I wasn't aware that these amps where this crappy.
If it sounds good, I’d stick with it.
Good Amp just doesn't do near 4500. But for 100 bucks we all should know better
I did have it pushing 2-12s, 1-10, and 4-6.5sthe twelves ,ten, and 2-6.5s were kicker and 2-6.5s are lanzar max. It would hit so hard that it would tickle my nose when I would breathe. Never got HOT or went into protect. I fed, and still feed it 14-14.4 volts consistently. With an upgraded alternator and proper wire size with a strong battery under hood feeding a secondary smaller battery which then feeds a 5 farad cap. My voltage never drops below 14 even when going hard.
Should have just called it 450.1 and we all Would have been mind blown with its output☕
Lol, true!!
I bought the 3500.4 to run 4 ds18 3.5in Kevlar conned mids and a pair of 6x9s and it does decent job but as most class ab amps it gets hot and I knew before I purchased it that 3500.4 wasn't going to do near that kinda power.....but like I said for the money i was surprised how good musically it sounds ...but I figure if it does about 150 x4 possibly 200 x4..
As an Orion dealer, i never order Cobalt or Ztreet amps, I feel there's better options in the price range that will do closer to/at rated.
@@smellsuperb1 that’s awesome. It’s a shame they even make those, tarnishing a great name in the process
@@stereomojoOrion isn't the same Orion as before.
If u look I don't know if it's still on UA-cam but that same amp cbt4500.1 got a Dyno run at 1200watts at 1ohm those meters suck
Yes another channel dyno numbers were higher at 1400 rms @ 1 ohm 13.77 certified pulling 140 amps and 1600 rms @ 1 ohm 13.79 dynamic. I'm calling bs on this video because the video shows 99 amps pulled at 758. Get another amm 1 or do the dyno at 1 ohm not 2 ohm. Try again sir 🤣🤣🤣
That was the cb4500.1D I believe.
I got into the same thing with the orion3000.1Dsplx. Rated 3000, I ran it at .5 ohm and hurt my subs. Stupid thing was makin over 10,000. Unacceptable marketing
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Thanks for video.
Thanks for the support!
758 can get real loud
Yes, it can
💯
I’m curious to see the amp rating with zero gauge
@@CaitlynFranco-i7z exactly the same
Larger wire would not have made a difference
How can they legally false advertise?
Technically it's not "false advertising". They created that wattage once in a lab somewhere with a 200amp power supply and some luck, more than likely using 80hz as their base.
The smd meter is not that accurate Ive seen that same amp Dyno at rite at 1100 watts at 1ohm and the pl4000.1 at 1300 watts at 1ohm
boss riot 3k for the win! This thing was terrible for the money.
fuuuuck dude i just bought this thinking it was 4500
my rockford BDCP2500.1 will put out around 4K. bit more $
Everyone knows the xtr and hcca do over rated hell the hcca 3k does like 9k dynamic lol.
The z street and colbalt super budget buy biggest one expect 1/3 power.
Gain knob isn’t a power knob
Hilarious they should be ashamed. Meanwhile I’m enjoying my xtr 🤣.
That’s cool. Which XTR do you have?
The cobalt is not a good representation of orion
The name is this amo is rediculous.
Junk amps. The AB monoblock is an even bigger joke. Says 1800 watts on it and has 2x 20A fuses.