When skar started ive bought the skar 10 inch dual amp combo came with wiring and got the rp1500.1d..can't buy it in a combo .they include the 1200.1d and not the rp1500.1 ..Lucky to have purchased the combo when skar started
@@mkultra814 are you running your rca's seperate from your power wire? Because if you run them together it can cause a static sound. Run them seperate from each other.
I have this amp and I’m using it to power two Skar SVR12 D2 subs and it makes my heart pound with joy every time I drive around and listen to my music.
@@josephpagan6953I found their video, it's old, looks like they were riding on power supplies and had tons of drop - I don't think they had a proper setup regardless what was intended and stated on the video. Honestly all their testing with that configuration is likely inaccurate which sucks for a brand showcasing their own gear.
You'd need to wire it to 0.5 ohm to get max power. Wiring to 2 ohm measured on DC voltage is not what the amp will see when playing AC music. The impedance will always be higher.
I did the math wired to two ohms plus box rise equals 4 or a little more so the amp sees a 4ohm load so that's why it's only putting out 500 watts because it's not seeing a 2 ohm load holy shit and here I thought it just wasn't in the cards for me to boom super hard well all that changes this weekend thanks for your help I'm working down to .5 so amp should see 2 to 3 ohm load 😎💪
Rockford isn't what it used to be. Got a T0 and it blew in 2 weeks. Switched to sundown audio, and man I'm NEVER looking back! Way more sub and more reliable for the money.
Is there anyway you can do a 1.33 ohm test? I have 3 2ohm dvc 10s that are wired to 1.33 and need to know a ballpark of what this amp puts out at that ohm amount.
@@Facekicker well not necessarily since it’s basically a 1/3 of the way and not a 1/2 but thanks I’ll Figure it out just wanted some actual results or a formula
The white one is a marine amp for boats. Brah I bought the same one off Amazon, n I thought I fuked up when it came, but its slaps just as hard as the black one and the white one is better suited for different environments even can get slightly wet. So win win plus white helps get rid of heat
You rock thank you been looking at amps for a few hours now and you sealed the deal just placed my order now, thank you again for all these videos u save us from getting ripped off
My daily driver truck I put 1 Skar 15 and this amp in it wasn't expecting to be blown away just wanted a little bass for my work truck. It surprised me how hard it hits and haven't had any problems with the setup. The price to performance is really good, good amp for starters. I have other big setups in my other cars, but Skar surprised me my coworker told me about them so ordered and don't regret it.
Unfortunately Skar did me dirty by selling me a defected amp. Returned it and the rca connectors on the amplifier fell apart. I just returned again for the third time within a two month period. However, the performance is great, if I can get one that works right and doesn't fall apart. Time to check out Taramps. I tired of disappointments. You know... when they say it's been certified tested. Etc. That must be one fast assembly line...
I used to run the rp1500 along with a skar rp 75.4 about 5 years ago and I have to admit the it did what it says ...not gonna say it was amazing and sound quality was there but it's worth more then what I paid
What do you mean by “sound quality”? What amp do you have now and what is the difference you hear? If a sub is receiving 1000w clean power, logically that would sound the same. I’ve heard others say this also about the taramps but they never elaborate on it. Would really like to hear your review. Thanks mate. Cheers
@@hippo-potamus I run zapco z150.6ap for my 3 way front stage active and a zapco z150.2lx for my rear along with a zapco st1650 to run my subs and this is all controlled by my zapco dsp.... so what your saying is can a cheap amp if provided clean power sound just as good as a high end ....No they don't. Many amps just make your music loud enough to overcome road noise. Other amplifiers handle music more carefully to promote higher fidelity. Small technological differences between brands often make for large differences in sound... reason why amps come in different price range .... just because it's a 4 channel amp that cost 100 dollars that has some of the same settings as a high end 4 channel doesn't mean it will sound just as amazing...now I am not saying all it takes is a high end amp and your good ..you still need a dsp, rta, speakers, and most importantly tuning and installation ....
@@bennyblanco14 You are not making any sense and for some reason IMO purposely not answering the question directly. I understand about different amps having different damping factor, circuitry design and quality build. But you specifically stated that the "sound quality" was shit. So my question was simple, how did the amps sound different? If you have two amps that both push 1000 watts clean undistorted 1% power to lets say a 300w rms subwoofer, its clear that both amps will have more than enough head room to accommodate varying voltage drops or sudden peak rms bursts. As such how can YOU physically from YOUR ears tell the difference?? You are brining up dsp and 4 channel amps etc is not relevant, the question was specifically about sub amps with all things being equal and the only supposed difference was your perceived sound quality. So what was the difference? Its almost the same arguments I have with bass head arguing that class AB sound better than D for mids. Yet when pressed they can never explain the difference if the drivers are provided the same clean power.
@@hippo-potamus I answered your question...smh.... I'll put it in caps because you seem not to understand.... FIRST... IF YOU HAVE 2 AMPS ONE IS CHEAP AND ONE IS EXPENSIVE AND FEED THEM A CLEAN SIGNAL OF POWER YOU WONT GET THE SAME OUTCOME DUE TO THE MORE EXPENSIVE AMP HAVING BETTER COMPONENTS TO CREATE A BETTER SOUND .... SECOND NOT EVERY AMP IS THE SAME ...SOME AMPS ARE MADE TO JUST BE LOUD SOME AMPS ARE BETTER AT GIVING A HIGHER FREQUENCY AND OFFER MORE FLEXIBILITY TO TUNE IN SOME.... THIRD.... THESE DAYS AMP CLASSES DONT REALLY MAKE A DIFFERENCE IN THE HIGH END BUT WHEN COMPARING A AB CHEAP AMP TO A AB HIGH END YOU WILL GET MUCH LESS EFFICIENCY AND QUALITY AND LESS FREQUENCY RANGE CAUSING THE AMP NOT TO DO AS GOOD AS THE MORE BETTER AMP EVEN IF IT GETS THE SAME AMOUNT OF POWER.... okay hope that helps out got to go now ...class dismissed...feel free to leave a comment dont forget to like and describe and you can find me on patreon at AREYOUFUCKINSERIOUSWITHTHESEDUMBASSQUESTIONS...
@@hippo-potamus If you compare a skar rp 1500 to a higher end amp no matter if its 1% thd or not the higher end amp will have better sound quality its pretty simple, my kicker kx2400 has light years better sound quality than my rp 2000, these rp amps have pretty poor sound quality compared to audiopipe apcl, kicker cx, pioneer gm series which are all about the same price yet a better deal than these rp
Man I was on budget and I got the skar audio bass package from Amazon the sdr series two 12”s and in a 98 suburban with just the four skar Audio door speakers and let me just say they are already head turners so I can’t wait to put four 15s in this box I have 😅
I appreciate the 4 ohm runs as someone looking to get an EVL to run at 4 until I can get an alternator so I don't overwork my current electrical. I may just save up for it all at once, but knowing what it can do at 4 helps me as well.
I've had a 1200-watt system on the stock alternator on many cars with just an upgrade battery without an issue. I had a 1650 watt on one of my cars with only a capacitor. I think you'll be fine
I have 650 rms 2500 watt max on 2 12 gothics in spl box stock electrical put in capacitor but really didn't change much. Upgrade battery and big 4 upgrade if stock cables are too small for charging.
I second that with an upgraded battery you're pretty solid. But if you have more than the subs to power then yea u needa get that alternator and big 3/4 upgrade.
A great video indeed. I just bought one. Using it to power a 800 watt sub. Not much heat. But, I was wondering with the subsonic filter saying off-50hz. Does off mean ohz or is there a low number like 1, 5, 10hz as a starting point? I wish these companies would provide more detailed information into their manuals. Would make setting up the amplifier much easier than having to do all the equations. Thanks
@@Facekicker I got two more questions. And the best part about asking questions is learning. My question. I have a factory radio running my system that has an auxiliary port I use to play music from my smart phone. But my smartphone puts out 1.4 volts and my amplifier needs 6 volts. Because I am using my phone and not the stereo, does that mean I need to increase the voltage on my LOC2 to bring the voltage up to match or leave alone? And, my amplifier has a max voltage of 6 volts and I actually need 6.6 input volts to push 800 watts. Does that mean leave it at 6 volts and turn the amps gain an extra 2 volts from target voltage of 40 to make up for that loss wattage. Hopefully this isn't confusing, because it is for me. I done the math and these are the things I came up with. Thanks again
@user-TurboD12 You definitely don't need 6 or 6.6 volts input to see the proper output from the amp. 1 volt or even less is OK, it just lowers the noise floor to run higher input voltage, and requires less gain adjustment. Play a test tone at your maximum listening volume, measure the output on an RCA coming out from the LOC, and I'd aim for anything 2-4v. Then reconnect it to amp, appropriately set gain on amp using a scope, DD1, or even an old tweeter to keep it out of clipping.
These just all generic Korean or Chinese made circuit boards good bang for your buck but if you actually care for warranty quality of design engineering and long lasting then I wouldn’t get these unless you really do mods to keep them alive like potting and or gluing the transformers, even then current hogs and less efficient then the other big brand names, honestly as much as I don’t want to admit it you get what you pay for, it’s a good option if your really on a budget, but be prepared to support electricals and glue those transformers down to get rid of loose wiggling wires too
@@quell300020 gain is almost guaranteed to be set far too high at 75%. I would make sure crossovers are properly set and reset gain using a DD1 or tools like an oscilloscope.
I have my gain set at 90% because I’m still using factory Mercedes-Benz system and just added two infinity kappa 12.1 perfect. I have a hifonics zrx-2400 mounted in the spare tire compartment and it shuts off before getting hot. Certain songs with hit or I turn the factory bass up and it goes into protection mode. I don’t believe the Zeus amp is really doing 1200 watts rms in 2ohms(more like 600) so each sub is only getting 300 rms. That is why I need the gain up to match the output of my factory 800 watt Harmon Kardon 11 speaker system. Even though my 20 yr old subs can only handle 350 rms(max 1400) each, would getting this more powerful amp allow me to turn gain down to avoid protection mode?
@@richardjones9375 If you wire to 2 ohms DC, then the amp is not seeing 2 ohm. The impedance will jump up and down, but the frequency that produces the lowest impedance may only be 3-5 ohm. This is true for all amps. I assume you have 1/0 ga ofc wire to the amp? You want as high a voltage as possible when its under load. Your 2400 should be more power than this Skar. Both have the same 200mV gain level. Yours being at 90% is fine considering your audio signal going in is weak. I've heard certain models of Hifonics amps are pretty low quality. Swapping to a different amp might fix the problem. I'd still like to eliminate high temperature and low voltage as your problem first. Put a volt meter on the amp and crank it up. Make sure the voltage is not dipping low on the bass notes. Make sure the power and ground connections are good.
Got one on the way to the house now to power a old school 15”db drive I have in my 2013 Ford Edge. It already has a nice Sony stereo which has 6 mids 3tweeters and a built in 8” woofer. Also have a 5400 boss 5channel amp hooked up right now and it’s powering the woofer alright but know it could do much more cause it’s probably only getting around 400watts maybe a little more. I would like to use my boss amp to power my stereo speakers while this amp is on the woofer which should really make a huge difference I would think and sound so damn awesome 😬😬
@@FacekickerYou see that's the problem with a lot of these videos that are out there. They buy one of these so called dynos Hook them up to a power supply, not even a car battery then they feed raw power from a power supply. Musical power is different you put music through the subs and the wattage will change you will be lucky if you see 300 watts of musical power going to a speaker or multiple speakers. So then you end up spending several hundred dollars to replace your current amp and you find out the power hasn't increased much if at all. You got to really do your due diligence when buying or dealing with car audio. I've seen many times where people have bought different equipment and the results never changed They expected more from something and everything sounded almost the same
Mine cuts of after 20 minutes. I just Replace wiring harness to amp 4 gauge she’s not sure if it’s the amp or something else any ideas. Professionally installed 2-12 skar shallow Mount Skar 1200 rp
General troubleshooting would be checking voltage at amp under operation to make sure it's not dropping too low, checking wired impedance, etc. If you're unable to find any cause Skar does have customer support and warranty service you could reach out to.
I got one of these pushing a couple SA12 classics, amp does great. I got a 3D printer fan mounted on each of the side heatsinks, amp gets maxed for an hour at a time usually never even gets warm.
I just bought this amp and a mephis mojo 8 in a ported box ....to go in my 1998 s 10 ...should be way more amp than I need but will this be a good combo
In skar's own rp1500.1 amp dyno video the amp fails to hit rated power uncertified and they totally skip the certified test and it squeezes out 1800 watts at 1 ohm dynamic. The rp1200.1 hits over 1700+ watts dynamically. Looks like Skar finally fixed the rp1500.1 good news! Skar's original rp1500.1 test here: ua-cam.com/video/QYePt-o4vSs/v-deo.html
@@gueroburban4989 The Skar Audio - RP-1200.1D Amplifier did far better than 1700 watts Dynamic in Steve Meade's dyno run & pulled 2093 watts Dynamic @ 1-Ohm & @ 14.46 volts. I provided a direct link to the video & @ 12:37 is the proof. The RP-1200.1D amplifier is a beast & one of the best budget amps available & I am certainly enjoying mine. ua-cam.com/video/7AszpTMJnss/v-deo.html
Do I need to upgrade alternator and battery to run this amp. I want to order the kit with a evl 12 and this amp but I don’t know if that’s all I need to buy😂
@@JasonWW2000 it’s been doing pretty good. Probably not making full wattage on stock alt and battery but it definitely sounds killer in my opinion which is all that matters. 140 amp alternator definitely under powering it a bit but oh well i guess. Probably the one thing I shouldn’t be doing but
I have this amp....and 4 ohm...will start the stinking on subs........I'm running American bass 15s now ...... hopefully no more stinking with corrected adjustments....but it pushes my 15s with ease in 4 ohm..... honestly I don't think the subs can take 1 ohm.......
Just be sure you're not sending a clipped signal out to the subs. Clipping is what tends to make them overheat and then you start smelling the voice coil epoxy start to out gas. You can get a portable oscilloscope for $100 to $150. They are very handy for setting up car stereo systems.
Serious question here, would it do rated power at 12.6? Or starting at 14.4V? I'm not criticizing, I buy SKAR products, I use their VXF 12s, and love them. However, when I was looking for an amp, I looked for one that done rated power @ 12.6, or at the highest 14.4. My electrical charges fairly constant at 14.2, that's listening to stereo, headlights on, but not a constant bass tone track. I would really not have as much use for a 3k amp that has to be fed 15V to produce the 3k? I've always looked at the ratings similar to those Wal Mart amp ratings, 17000 watts for 99.99, when in reality, it's making 400 watts. Well, to rate an amp that's marketed towards a daily driven vehicle, not SPL or competition based as a 3k, and not point out it requires 16 V to me is deceiving
Thank you for the reply. I figured it would have been more? But, you are the man that handles these things daily, so, I am glad to learn this!! My amp shows 12v=2500w 14.4= 3500w That's part of what made me wonder. Thanks again for the reply. Subbed.
I enjoyed you started at 1 ohm from the get go. We're you able to get amps on this for efficiency? I'm only asking because their manual states " 90%@4ohm", but let's be real, we're all going to run it 1ohm, and some may at 2 ohm.
I just installed the rp1500 just waiting on my 2 sa-8's to get hear. Dual 4 ohm wired in parallel 1500 watts at 1 ohm. I hope it's not to much for them but everything I've seen said they can take it.
Why does this dyno keep allowing power to be counted up once it hits clipping? Shouldn't it stop the test as soon as it clips and report the "clean" limit?
@@jamesg8246 to play it safe, I can hit pause as soon as it registers as I try to do on certified. But some amps gain substantial power with a tad of clip so I will often let those climb. Letting uncertified go too long can kill an amp at low impedances though, so I may start playing it on the safe side.
@@Facekicker Thanks for the insight. Just trying to figure out as a consumer what the real numbers are if you care about not clipping your subs. Cheers.
lol i bought this exact amp and it lasted 20 minutes until it started messing up, When i checked to see why it was cutting in and out the RCA input pulled completely out of the amp. so i sent it back and got a refund
I agree it is damn good bang for your buck! I had the marine version rp1500 on my single 18 inch zvx and that shit was no joke on stock 90 amp alt 1/0 gauge power and ground with a 10 farad planet audio cap and it fuckin HAMMERED and shocked people honestly lol. Had it in backseat of my 94 Chrysler LeBaron and that is a solid metal car and the windshield had pretty good flex on it actually and I had all the doors flexing pretty good. Shit it even had my bumper flexing. Check it out on my UA-cam channel. Svensplooge
should have done 12v to 13v cause that where people with stock electronics power is at I know where mine and a couple of my friends are around when bumping.
Not without first reducing it's diameter. It's set up for 4 ga wire. Since it needs a fuse you can run 1/0 ga very close, add a fuse holder and run a short length of 4 ga from the fuse to the amp.
15v is real voltage. Nothing on my channel is faked. 15v seems like a good area to test and is somewhat middle ground as far as what you see people charging at.
@@Facekicker I hear you bro..... but testing it at a lower voltage would render to some real world daily drivers....I have put alot of money in to my electrical system, I’m talking bout young boys who are going to buy it and hook it up with maybe just a “big 3”.... 15v is kinda high when average 12 volt systems sit at 13.8 at ilde... so if I draw 200 amps on a 110 amp alternator, I’m dropping in the 12’s, meaning 1500 watts is not happening.... point being..... if it was a $1000 amp most people spending that money will upgrade accordingly, but $180, that demographic is not spending $1200 to upgrade the electrical...... jus saying go down to daily driver voltage , not SPL 6 battery bank competition volts......
@@Rah-know so what your saying is if I hook this up with the 1250 watt rms woofer that I won’t get full power. Also is it a bad idea with standard battery and alternator?
Sir those Rp's are trash, no discussion.. not even in the same class as any of my d4sound amps or kicker for that matter. I have old lanzar vibe amps that do better, let's be real. You enjoy though.
@@BoobeeMyles no I'm trying to get a decent subwoofer amp to power a couple of EVL 12 dual four-ohm voice coils. I was running a couple of old school German subs from 30 years ago about a month ago. I decided that maybe I should purchase something of better quality sound. Maybe it was time for an upgrade because I thought that I had reached my limits with the old subwoofers and I figured if I purchased something newer and better I would be able to adjust my amp higher to get the full wattage claimed which clearly I wasn't even putting the full power to my subwoofers nowhere close to it, but they were moving pretty good I realized how little power I had once I got a clamp meter. I purchased some EVL. They claim to be 1,250 watt RMS now so far in the last year I've purchased two different amps and neither one of them put out any power it seemed. I upgraded from the 700 watt to the 1,500 watt and it seemed like there was a difference. However, that difference was probably 15 amps to 30 amps of power a joke if you ask me I didn't investigate or do any research like I normally would when purchasing things. I went with what seemed like a good budget amp. Honestly, it seemed like the NVX put out the same amount if not less power than a razor 2500d I had 3 years ago from Walmart really sad. I have a good electrical system updated aftermarket alternator. All that good stuff good for 250 amps. The way I see it if I could even get the actual 1500 watts that's promised from a company I would be doing better than I am now. Less than 300 watts into two subwoofers what a joke but I guess what do people expect for around $200. I could have just kept the razor for half the price to get the same amount of power probably.
Great review, legitimate & unbias testing. It amazes me how many put down products that meet or exceeds their manufacturers rating. Piss poor installs. Lack of volts ? or just plain dumbass abuse !!!
The main problem with skar rp series the driver board burns out quickly no matter if a person has the power supply to run them period. I TRASH MY RP-3500 NEVER AGAIN. BUT I HAVE REPLACE IT WITH A RARE TWISTED SOUNDS 3.5KW EVEN BETTER :) KOREN AMPS FOR THE WIN ALL DAY EVERYDAY..........
@@benygarcia1940 People break them or return them. Skar goes over them and makes any repairs then resales them as refurbished. When you say you "find a lot" that is just a tiny fraction of the amount they are selling. I imagine they sell thousands a month.
Cmax is crazy dope. I need one. Love to see a .8 or even half ohm pull also understand if you don't wanna go there. Ive heard skar amps handle it well but who really knows
I have never seen a certified dyno run on this particular amp. Seems like I made a good purchase. I have it pushing 2 sdr 12s @1 ohm and man does it produce. Makes your ears itch when I crank it up. It's also on stock electrical. Still beats.
The add-1 will tell you to set the gain at 10 DB overlap using the included test CD. The LPF is set to the highest frequency, the subsonic filter is turned down to the lowest frequency or off and the bass boost is set to zero.
When you have the results at 1 ohm and 2 ohm you can accurately calculate the output at 1.33. Certified would be about 1380 watts. 1.66 ohm would be about 1230 watts.
@@________GHOST________ your right I mainly was curious what the Rockville amp board looks like because it was very powerful. Usally Rockville is junk but the 3500 must be using a good board from a better amp.
I was considering this or the audiopipe 1500. There both real close in ratings. Think this one did little more. But not enough to be a deal breaker. Thanks for dyno 👍plus the audiopipe can be strapped the skar can't 👍😁💯
@@martinnekesams6806 Strapping means you wire the amps together so their clocks are synchronized and produce a single output. One amp will output the positive signal and the other amp puts out the negative signal.
Would this amplifier be too many watts for a Sundown Audio Ev.4 subwoofer in a ported box I'm just curious because I was looking at getting the same amp to hook up to my Sundown Audio sub thank you I'd really appreciate some feedback
@@Facekicker You can never have too many watts. I overpower everything. 5,000 watts worth of amps, but only use maybe 30 amps of power on average. You can put this RP1500 on a 100 watt sub if you wanted to. You just have to adjust the gain to a reasonable level. You could make it output 100 watts if you want.
![Why is SKAR Audio So Popular? Also the 1200W RP-1200.1D Amp Dyno Test and Review [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bFhJzH0GT5w/mqdefault.jpg)
Im still useing the same amp. On 4 8 inch svr's. Great amp
When skar started ive bought the skar 10 inch dual amp combo came with wiring and got the rp1500.1d..can't buy it in a combo .they include the 1200.1d and not the rp1500.1 ..Lucky to have purchased the combo when skar started
i have mine pushing a single 18" from Fi Audio.. Had the amp for 5 years now. never had a problem with it over heating or cutting off.. Love it
👍🏿 im running one 18" JBL industrial concert subwoofer in box n my 14 ford escape slumping
I realize I am kind of off topic but does anybody know a good site to stream new tv shows online?
@Travis Xzavier I watch on flixzone. Just search on google for it :)
I just bought one but I get a static sound from it and I don’t know why and it’s annoying can anybody help me out
@@mkultra814 are you running your rca's seperate from your power wire? Because if you run them together it can cause a static sound. Run them seperate from each other.
When the red light comes on after each run is it saying its down or is the bass truly distorting?
I have this amp and I’m using it to power two Skar SVR12 D2 subs and it makes my heart pound with joy every time I drive around and listen to my music.
What's the difference between certified and uncertified
@@keefergranger8960 certified stops reading at 1% distortion or clip, uncertified continues to read "dirty" power.
Getting this for my birthday! For 2 15s hopefully it has the power to push them good 🤔
How are you getting more power out of the amp than Skar did on their dyno? They only measured 1386..
I saw that video too and doesn't make sense unless they didnt have enough power to get the 1500
I haven't seen their dyno setup but it's likely lower voltage with more drop - but that's a guess
@@josephpagan6953I found their video, it's old, looks like they were riding on power supplies and had tons of drop - I don't think they had a proper setup regardless what was intended and stated on the video. Honestly all their testing with that configuration is likely inaccurate which sucks for a brand showcasing their own gear.
@Facekicker well I ended up buying 2 of them for my mmats dreadnaut 15s and definitely hitting hard at 1 ohm each with extra batteries and zero gauge
@Facekicker and no issues whatsoever so I'm good
I am still trying to figure out where 30hz is exactly
When a dyno is done on an amp, what level are you putting the gain at?
It's set to max clean based on a 1v RCA input.
Just bought 1 today along with a set of EVL 8s, EXCITED!
Can you test this amp on half ohm. Yes I know it's not rated for it. But want to see what it will do
Wired to half ohm in real world use, you'll see numbers similar to the 1 ohm numbers the dyno read.
So if the rp and sk do the same power, why buy the sk 1500?
Likely much better tolerance to 0.5 ohm use or "abuse" with the SK
Sound quality for one and efficiency and sk does lower hz along with a clip light
i have that amp its only putting out 500w at 2ohm any idea why
Rise
You'd need to wire it to 0.5 ohm to get max power. Wiring to 2 ohm measured on DC voltage is not what the amp will see when playing AC music. The impedance will always be higher.
@@JasonWW2000 thank you very much I'm gonna wire down to .5 this weekend
I did the math wired to two ohms plus box rise equals 4 or a little more so the amp sees a 4ohm load so that's why it's only putting out 500 watts because it's not seeing a 2 ohm load holy shit and here I thought it just wasn't in the cards for me to boom super hard well all that changes this weekend thanks for your help I'm working down to .5 so amp should see 2 to 3 ohm load 😎💪
Can this handle .5ohm load?
No it's only stable for 1
Just blew two RF P3 15’s with this amp. It packs a punch that’s for sure
shiit i knew that
Was the amp clipping?
@@James-id5xq most likely
well I had p3 15s and id say the subs were junk except when used in the house but I also agree it was probably clipping
Rockford isn't what it used to be. Got a T0 and it blew in 2 weeks. Switched to sundown audio, and man I'm NEVER looking back! Way more sub and more reliable for the money.
Thanks for this
No problem
Is there anyway you can do a 1.33 ohm test? I have 3 2ohm dvc 10s that are wired to 1.33 and need to know a ballpark of what this amp puts out at that ohm amount.
It'll be in between the 1 and 2 ohm results
@@Facekicker well not necessarily since it’s basically a 1/3 of the way and not a 1/2 but thanks I’ll Figure it out just wanted some actual results or a formula
@@ConnorBallin659 With impedance rise you won't be at 1.33 at all times
I like mine it claps.
Got one of these on a single Rockford t0 idk what’s stronger the amp or the sub!
I have 1500.1 RP white one and i love mine,it seams to kick my sundown X-15 pretty good
The white one is a marine amp for boats. Brah I bought the same one off Amazon, n I thought I fuked up when it came, but its slaps just as hard as the black one and the white one is better suited for different environments even can get slightly wet. So win win plus white helps get rid of heat
Has anyone wired this too 0.67 ohm? I was thinking about trying it. I've got 3 4ohm subs running off an rp1500
Not recommended on RP series
You rock thank you been looking at amps for a few hours now and you sealed the deal just placed my order now, thank you again for all these videos u save us from getting ripped off
I put it on four kicker 12"s
My daily driver truck I put 1 Skar 15 and this amp in it wasn't expecting to be blown away just wanted a little bass for my work truck. It surprised me how hard it hits and haven't had any problems with the setup. The price to performance is really good, good amp for starters. I have other big setups in my other cars, but Skar surprised me my coworker told me about them so ordered and don't regret it.
Have this amp for 3 years now. Never needed another.
What the power at 1.3 ohms
ty for vid i was debating on getting this...so i will be buying it.
Unfortunately Skar did me dirty by selling me a defected amp. Returned it and the rca connectors on the amplifier fell apart. I just returned again for the third time within a two month period. However, the performance is great, if I can get one that works right and doesn't fall apart. Time to check out Taramps. I tired of disappointments. You know... when they say it's been certified tested. Etc. That must be one fast assembly line...
I used to run the rp1500 along with a skar rp 75.4 about 5 years ago and I have to admit the it did what it says ...not gonna say it was amazing and sound quality was there but it's worth more then what I paid
What do you mean by “sound quality”? What amp do you have now and what is the difference you hear? If a sub is receiving 1000w clean power, logically that would sound the same. I’ve heard others say this also about the taramps but they never elaborate on it. Would really like to hear your review. Thanks mate. Cheers
@@hippo-potamus I run zapco z150.6ap for my 3 way front stage active and a zapco z150.2lx for my rear along with a zapco st1650 to run my subs and this is all controlled by my zapco dsp.... so what your saying is can a cheap amp if provided clean power sound just as good as a high end ....No they don't. Many amps just make your music loud enough to overcome road noise. Other amplifiers handle music more carefully to promote higher fidelity. Small technological differences between brands often make for large differences in sound... reason why amps come in different price range .... just because it's a 4 channel amp that cost 100 dollars that has some of the same settings as a high end 4 channel doesn't mean it will sound just as amazing...now I am not saying all it takes is a high end amp and your good ..you still need a dsp, rta, speakers, and most importantly tuning and installation ....
@@bennyblanco14 You are not making any sense and for some reason IMO purposely not answering the question directly. I understand about different amps having different damping factor, circuitry design and quality build. But you specifically stated that the "sound quality" was shit. So my question was simple, how did the amps sound different? If you have two amps that both push 1000 watts clean undistorted 1% power to lets say a 300w rms subwoofer, its clear that both amps will have more than enough head room to accommodate varying voltage drops or sudden peak rms bursts. As such how can YOU physically from YOUR ears tell the difference?? You are brining up dsp and 4 channel amps etc is not relevant, the question was specifically about sub amps with all things being equal and the only supposed difference was your perceived sound quality. So what was the difference? Its almost the same arguments I have with bass head arguing that class AB sound better than D for mids. Yet when pressed they can never explain the difference if the drivers are provided the same clean power.
@@hippo-potamus I answered your question...smh.... I'll put it in caps because you seem not to understand.... FIRST... IF YOU HAVE 2 AMPS ONE IS CHEAP AND ONE IS EXPENSIVE AND FEED THEM A CLEAN SIGNAL OF POWER YOU WONT GET THE SAME OUTCOME DUE TO THE MORE EXPENSIVE AMP HAVING BETTER COMPONENTS TO CREATE A BETTER SOUND .... SECOND NOT EVERY AMP IS THE SAME ...SOME AMPS ARE MADE TO JUST BE LOUD SOME AMPS ARE BETTER AT GIVING A HIGHER FREQUENCY AND OFFER MORE FLEXIBILITY TO TUNE IN SOME....
THIRD.... THESE DAYS AMP CLASSES DONT REALLY MAKE A DIFFERENCE IN THE HIGH END BUT WHEN COMPARING A AB CHEAP AMP TO A AB HIGH END YOU WILL GET MUCH LESS EFFICIENCY AND QUALITY AND LESS FREQUENCY RANGE CAUSING THE AMP NOT TO DO AS GOOD AS THE MORE BETTER AMP EVEN IF IT GETS THE SAME AMOUNT OF POWER.... okay hope that helps out got to go now ...class dismissed...feel free to leave a comment dont forget to like and describe and you can find me on patreon at AREYOUFUCKINSERIOUSWITHTHESEDUMBASSQUESTIONS...
@@hippo-potamus If you compare a skar rp 1500 to a higher end amp no matter if its 1% thd or not the higher end amp will have better sound quality its pretty simple, my kicker kx2400 has light years better sound quality than my rp 2000, these rp amps have pretty poor sound quality compared to audiopipe apcl, kicker cx, pioneer gm series which are all about the same price yet a better deal than these rp
Man I was on budget and I got the skar audio bass package from Amazon the sdr series two 12”s and in a 98 suburban with just the four skar Audio door speakers and let me just say they are already head turners so I can’t wait to put four 15s in this box I have 😅
Should I purchase the Skar RP 1500 or Skar RP 1200 to power my two Skar VD-10's for my regular cab truck?
The VDs don't need tons of power, personally I'd feel fine with them on the 1200.
Your voltage is high 😢
Thanks for these informative vids man!
Glad you like them!
I appreciate the 4 ohm runs as someone looking to get an EVL to run at 4 until I can get an alternator so I don't overwork my current electrical. I may just save up for it all at once, but knowing what it can do at 4 helps me as well.
I've had a 1200-watt system on the stock alternator on many cars with just an upgrade battery without an issue. I had a 1650 watt on one of my cars with only a capacitor. I think you'll be fine
I have 650 rms 2500 watt max on 2 12 gothics in spl box stock electrical put in capacitor but really didn't change much. Upgrade battery and big 4 upgrade if stock cables are too small for charging.
5 farad power acoustik. Nothing fancy
I second that with an upgraded battery you're pretty solid. But if you have more than the subs to power then yea u needa get that alternator and big 3/4 upgrade.
The only upgrade I did was the big 3, works perfectly.
I found that capacitors are worthless.
A great video indeed. I just bought one. Using it to power a 800 watt sub. Not much heat.
But, I was wondering with the subsonic filter saying off-50hz. Does off mean ohz or is there a low number like 1, 5, 10hz as a starting point? I wish these companies would provide more detailed information into their manuals. Would make setting up the amplifier much easier than having to do all the equations.
Thanks
Set to "off" the amp has an inherent roll off at 20hz just due to design.
@@Facekicker thanks
@@sublovelows no problem!
@@Facekicker I got two more questions. And the best part about asking questions is learning.
My question. I have a factory radio running my system that has an auxiliary port I use to play music from my smart phone. But my smartphone puts out 1.4 volts and my amplifier needs 6 volts. Because I am using my phone and not the stereo, does that mean I need to increase the voltage on my LOC2 to bring the voltage up to match or leave alone?
And, my amplifier has a max voltage of 6 volts and I actually need 6.6 input volts to push 800 watts. Does that mean leave it at 6 volts and turn the amps gain an extra 2 volts from target voltage of 40 to make up for that loss wattage. Hopefully this isn't confusing, because it is for me. I done the math and these are the things I came up with.
Thanks again
@user-TurboD12 You definitely don't need 6 or 6.6 volts input to see the proper output from the amp. 1 volt or even less is OK, it just lowers the noise floor to run higher input voltage, and requires less gain adjustment.
Play a test tone at your maximum listening volume, measure the output on an RCA coming out from the LOC, and I'd aim for anything 2-4v.
Then reconnect it to amp, appropriately set gain on amp using a scope, DD1, or even an old tweeter to keep it out of clipping.
I just love Skar products, I have that amp running my Skar 12 inch speakers runs perfect
These just all generic Korean or Chinese made circuit boards good bang for your buck but if you actually care for warranty quality of design engineering and long lasting then I wouldn’t get these unless you really do mods to keep them alive like potting and or gluing the transformers, even then current hogs and less efficient then the other big brand names, honestly as much as I don’t want to admit it you get what you pay for, it’s a good option if your really on a budget, but be prepared to support electricals and glue those transformers down to get rid of loose wiggling wires too
Thank you for your service!
just ordered one to push my k6d4. wired down to 1 ohm.. they are only 600 rms a piece. this should push them pretty good??
Does anyone have overheating issues with this amp?
Doesn't seem to be a problem, we're a local dealer and have installed quite a few with no heat issues ever arising
@@Facekicker I have mine installed in my spare tire area and it overheat when I have it turned up 3/4 over the way. Any pointers?
@@quell300020 gain is almost guaranteed to be set far too high at 75%.
I would make sure crossovers are properly set and reset gain using a DD1 or tools like an oscilloscope.
I have my gain set at 90% because I’m still using factory Mercedes-Benz system and just added two infinity kappa 12.1 perfect. I have a hifonics zrx-2400 mounted in the spare tire compartment and it shuts off before getting hot. Certain songs with hit or I turn the factory bass up and it goes into protection mode. I don’t believe the Zeus amp is really doing 1200 watts rms in 2ohms(more like 600) so each sub is only getting 300 rms. That is why I need the gain up to match the output of my factory 800 watt Harmon Kardon 11 speaker system. Even though my 20 yr old subs can only handle 350 rms(max 1400) each, would getting this more powerful amp allow me to turn gain down to avoid protection mode?
@@richardjones9375 If you wire to 2 ohms DC, then the amp is not seeing 2 ohm. The impedance will jump up and down, but the frequency that produces the lowest impedance may only be 3-5 ohm. This is true for all amps. I assume you have 1/0 ga ofc wire to the amp? You want as high a voltage as possible when its under load. Your 2400 should be more power than this Skar. Both have the same 200mV gain level. Yours being at 90% is fine considering your audio signal going in is weak. I've heard certain models of Hifonics amps are pretty low quality. Swapping to a different amp might fix the problem. I'd still like to eliminate high temperature and low voltage as your problem first. Put a volt meter on the amp and crank it up. Make sure the voltage is not dipping low on the bass notes. Make sure the power and ground connections are good.
Got one on the way to the house now to power a old school 15”db drive I have in my 2013 Ford Edge. It already has a nice Sony stereo which has 6 mids 3tweeters and a built in 8” woofer. Also have a 5400 boss 5channel amp hooked up right now and it’s powering the woofer alright but know it could do much more cause it’s probably only getting around 400watts maybe a little more. I would like to use my boss amp to power my stereo speakers while this amp is on the woofer which should really make a huge difference I would think and sound so damn awesome 😬😬
Will this amp do good on 2 10s rated at 500 watt rms?
500 watt rms each
Yes
Hello new sub here do you think this amp could handle 2 ct meso 8s
Yes, it would be a solid match. Best if the subs are D4.
The dynos are nice but start including the draw current so we can see what the efficiency is
All videos newer than this do have current shown
@@Facekicker just ordered one to push my k6d4. wired down to 1 ohm.. they are only 600 rms a piece. this should push them pretty good??
@@FacekickerYou see that's the problem with a lot of these videos that are out there. They buy one of these so called dynos Hook them up to a power supply, not even a car battery then they feed raw power from a power supply. Musical power is different you put music through the subs and the wattage will change you will be lucky if you see 300 watts of musical power going to a speaker or multiple speakers. So then you end up spending several hundred dollars to replace your current amp and you find out the power hasn't increased much if at all. You got to really do your due diligence when buying or dealing with car audio. I've seen many times where people have bought different equipment and the results never changed They expected more from something and everything sounded almost the same
@@jaygee6983 99.9% of the time I'm running on nothing but battery and no charger or power supply
Mine cuts of after 20 minutes. I just Replace wiring harness to amp 4 gauge she’s not sure if it’s the amp or something else any ideas. Professionally installed 2-12 skar shallow Mount Skar
1200 rp
General troubleshooting would be checking voltage at amp under operation to make sure it's not dropping too low, checking wired impedance, etc. If you're unable to find any cause Skar does have customer support and warranty service you could reach out to.
I got one of these pushing a couple SA12 classics, amp does great. I got a 3D printer fan mounted on each of the side heatsinks, amp gets maxed for an hour at a time usually never even gets warm.
Nice thanks for opening it up
No problem 👍
I just bought this amp and a mephis mojo 8 in a ported box ....to go in my 1998 s 10 ...should be way more amp than I need but will this be a good combo
my last amp fosgate 800a running 4 fosgate 12s now 1500rp skar wit my powerful 18" JLB
In skar's own rp1500.1 amp dyno video the amp fails to hit rated power uncertified and they totally skip the certified test and it squeezes out 1800 watts at 1 ohm dynamic. The rp1200.1 hits over 1700+ watts dynamically. Looks like Skar finally fixed the rp1500.1 good news! Skar's original rp1500.1 test here: ua-cam.com/video/QYePt-o4vSs/v-deo.html
Yes very true I have the rp 1200 and it does 1700 at 1 ohm I love my rp 1200!!!
I was waiting for this comment
@@gueroburban4989 The Skar Audio - RP-1200.1D Amplifier did far better than 1700 watts Dynamic in Steve Meade's dyno run & pulled 2093 watts Dynamic @ 1-Ohm & @ 14.46 volts. I provided a direct link to the video & @ 12:37 is the proof. The RP-1200.1D amplifier is a beast & one of the best budget amps available & I am certainly enjoying mine.
ua-cam.com/video/7AszpTMJnss/v-deo.html
@gueroburban4989 so the 1200rp does over that but the 1500rp doesnt?
Great great video man. Thanks for doing this test on the amp.
Can this Skar rp-1500 push two 10” inch ddx-4ohms?
It'd be about perfect for that.
How many watts at 1 ohm dynamic
@6:00
@@Facekicker 1900 aint bad at all thank you Mr facekicker.
Love that new CMAX bank you have!🔋Now that amp is also impressive.
Do I need to upgrade alternator and battery to run this amp. I want to order the kit with a evl 12 and this amp but I don’t know if that’s all I need to buy😂
Try it and see. You're probably not going to wire it down to 0.5 ohm and then play sine waves at max volume.
@@JasonWW2000 it’s been doing pretty good. Probably not making full wattage on stock alt and battery but it definitely sounds killer in my opinion which is all that matters. 140 amp alternator definitely under powering it a bit but oh well i guess. Probably the one thing I shouldn’t be doing but
@@TaxationIsTheft439u sure u set it right im banging on a 95 amp alt with stinger hybrid cap and yellow top bat
@@slitherman7883 yeah it’s doing good. Sounds killer
@@TaxationIsTheft439 should be making full power with tha alt
I have this amp....and 4 ohm...will start the stinking on subs........I'm running American bass 15s now ...... hopefully no more stinking with corrected adjustments....but it pushes my 15s with ease in 4 ohm..... honestly I don't think the subs can take 1 ohm.......
Just be sure you're not sending a clipped signal out to the subs. Clipping is what tends to make them overheat and then you start smelling the voice coil epoxy start to out gas. You can get a portable oscilloscope for $100 to $150. They are very handy for setting up car stereo systems.
Serious question here, would it do rated power at 12.6? Or starting at 14.4V? I'm not criticizing, I buy SKAR products, I use their VXF 12s, and love them. However, when I was looking for an amp, I looked for one that done rated power @ 12.6, or at the highest 14.4. My electrical charges fairly constant at 14.2, that's listening to stereo, headlights on, but not a constant bass tone track. I would really not have as much use for a 3k amp that has to be fed 15V to produce the 3k? I've always looked at the ratings similar to those Wal Mart amp ratings, 17000 watts for 99.99, when in reality, it's making 400 watts. Well, to rate an amp that's marketed towards a daily driven vehicle, not SPL or competition based as a 3k, and not point out it requires 16 V to me is deceiving
The difference in power from 12.6v to 14.4v would likely only be 200w
Thank you for the reply. I figured it would have been more? But, you are the man that handles these things daily, so, I am glad to learn this!!
My amp shows 12v=2500w
14.4= 3500w
That's part of what made me wonder. Thanks again for the reply. Subbed.
Buy Orion amps if you want 12v rated power.
@@raulfernandez9111 or Crossfire Audio
Why don't anyone do 8ohm tests? Will the 8ohm be roughly half 4ohm?
8 ohm isn't available in mono mode - yes 8 ohm would generally speaking be about half what you see at 4.
I enjoyed you started at 1 ohm from the get go. We're you able to get amps on this for efficiency? I'm only asking because their manual states " 90%@4ohm", but let's be real, we're all going to run it 1ohm, and some may at 2 ohm.
Would this amp move 2 Sa 8 sundowns good?
This would be a good amp for those
I just installed the rp1500 just waiting on my 2 sa-8's to get hear. Dual 4 ohm wired in parallel 1500 watts at 1 ohm. I hope it's not to much for them but everything I've seen said they can take it.
Why does this dyno keep allowing power to be counted up once it hits clipping? Shouldn't it stop the test as soon as it clips and report the "clean" limit?
Only the certified test stops at first clip. Uncertified will keep measuring past clip. Dynamic pulse records the highest pulse.
@@Facekicker Gotchya. The way it says "to clipping" suggests it stops once clipping begins. It's more of a "through clipping" lol.
@@jamesg8246 to play it safe, I can hit pause as soon as it registers as I try to do on certified. But some amps gain substantial power with a tad of clip so I will often let those climb. Letting uncertified go too long can kill an amp at low impedances though, so I may start playing it on the safe side.
@@Facekicker Thanks for the insight. Just trying to figure out as a consumer what the real numbers are if you care about not clipping your subs. Cheers.
I would like to see the Hifonics Alpha 3000.1 mono amp tested or any of them to see if they do rated.
Skar what a great amp that last a long time! It beats up the block like crazy...
lol i bought this exact amp and it lasted 20 minutes until it started messing up, When i checked to see why it was cutting in and out the RCA input pulled completely out of the amp. so i sent it back and got a refund
@@hooptastic_hippie8522 ran mine for 2 years now well over 600 hrs from driving to work and back its a great amp
@@mrbasscow I'm glad you had a better experience than I did..I have a JP23 now and love it
I agree it is damn good bang for your buck! I had the marine version rp1500 on my single 18 inch zvx and that shit was no joke on stock 90 amp alt 1/0 gauge power and ground with a 10 farad planet audio cap and it fuckin HAMMERED and shocked people honestly lol. Had it in backseat of my 94 Chrysler LeBaron and that is a solid metal car and the windshield had pretty good flex on it actually and I had all the doors flexing pretty good. Shit it even had my bumper flexing. Check it out on my UA-cam channel. Svensplooge
What did the settng in the amp look like
Filters are left open and gain is set via DD1+
@@Facekicker when you say left open do you mean turned all the way up?
@@12333jimmy Yes, lpf set to 220hz, subsonic turned all the way down and bass boost off.
should have done 12v to 13v cause that where people with stock electronics power is at I know where mine and a couple of my friends are around when bumping.
1971@1@14 how many amps it pulling
With the 1 ohm resistive load, about 180 amps.
These amps on a good day don't draw more than 80 amps When playing music through them most of the time it's less than that
How many amps would this pull from the alt.?
Maybe ~180a
I can hook up 1/0 gauge to this amp?
Not without first reducing it's diameter. It's set up for 4 ga wire. Since it needs a fuse you can run 1/0 ga very close, add a fuse holder and run a short length of 4 ga from the fuse to the amp.
Can we get real voltage? Most people buying a $180 amplifier are not going to have damn near 15 volt charge system........
15v is real voltage.
Nothing on my channel is faked.
15v seems like a good area to test and is somewhat middle ground as far as what you see people charging at.
@@Facekicker I hear you bro..... but testing it at a lower voltage would render to some real world daily drivers....I have put alot of money in to my electrical system, I’m talking bout young boys who are going to buy it and hook it up with maybe just a “big 3”.... 15v is kinda high when average 12 volt systems sit at 13.8 at ilde... so if I draw 200 amps on a 110 amp alternator, I’m dropping in the 12’s, meaning 1500 watts is not happening.... point being..... if it was a $1000 amp most people spending that money will upgrade accordingly, but $180, that demographic is not spending $1200 to upgrade the electrical...... jus saying go down to daily driver voltage , not SPL 6 battery bank competition volts......
@@Rah-know your over/improper use of ellipses do not strike confidence in the reader.
@@MrS22222 I failed English, but got a A+ in Fuckery......
@@Rah-know so what your saying is if I hook this up with the 1250 watt rms woofer that I won’t get full power. Also is it a bad idea with standard battery and alternator?
Would like to see .8 and .5 ohm readings. You definitely have the bank for it.
I got two sk-1500’s on two zvx-v2 18’s and all I can say is damm
I bought the Skar Skv2 1500 like an hour ago and I have the Skar SDR 2x10” coming in tomorrow I’m exited as hell to get them installed
@@aiden06876 how do the 2 sdr 10’s sound?
Just bought this one a few weeks ago. No complaints yet.
I've had 3 of them. Get a tad hot but never failed me
how are u liking it??
@@jordanburt7077 love it. Got it pushing 4 SDR 8's on 1 ohm and I have no complaints at all.
@@ajw148 sweet. i got it coming to push my rockville k6d4 wired down to 1 ohm.. only 600 rms a peice so hopefully it pushes them well!
CMAX bank I think was more impressive then the amp lol thanks for good dyno video
I would see a short redo with 14.4 volts on this amps and see how it does
These amps are trash asf & they overheat easily! Plus didn't push my CompR or Solo baric 10s like it should have, just trash
We install these regularly at our install shop and haven't had any heat issues and they work great!
Sir those Rp's are trash, no discussion.. not even in the same class as any of my d4sound amps or kicker for that matter. I have old lanzar vibe amps that do better, let's be real. You enjoy though.
@@jaygee6983 so what wattage amp do you need & its for coaxial speakers right?
@@BoobeeMyles no I'm trying to get a decent subwoofer amp to power a couple of EVL 12 dual four-ohm voice coils.
I was running a couple of old school German subs from 30 years ago about a month ago. I decided that maybe I should purchase something of better quality sound. Maybe it was time for an upgrade because I thought that I had reached my limits with the old subwoofers and I figured if I purchased something newer and better I would be able to adjust my amp higher to get the full wattage claimed which clearly I wasn't even putting the full power to my subwoofers nowhere close to it, but they were moving pretty good I realized how little power I had once I got a clamp meter.
I purchased some EVL. They claim to be 1,250 watt RMS now so far in the last year I've purchased two different amps and neither one of them put out any power it seemed. I upgraded from the 700 watt to the 1,500 watt and it seemed like there was a difference. However, that difference was probably 15 amps to 30 amps of power a joke if you ask me I didn't investigate or do any research like I normally would when purchasing things. I went with what seemed like a good budget amp.
Honestly, it seemed like the NVX put out the same amount if not less power than a razor 2500d I had 3 years ago from Walmart really sad.
I have a good electrical system updated aftermarket alternator. All that good stuff good for 250 amps.
The way I see it if I could even get the actual 1500 watts that's promised from a company I would be doing better than I am now. Less than 300 watts into two subwoofers what a joke but I guess what do people expect for around $200. I could have just kept the razor for half the price to get the same amount of power probably.
@@jaygee6983 i have these subwoofers right now.. I use this amp & it works flawlessly. I'll drop the link below sir
Great Video!Would love to see the CT sounds 2000.1 dynoed
Coming soon!
Great review, legitimate & unbias testing. It amazes me how many
put down products that meet or exceeds their manufacturers rating.
Piss poor installs. Lack of volts ?
or just plain dumbass abuse !!!
The main problem with skar rp series the driver board burns out quickly no matter if a person has the power supply to run them period. I TRASH MY RP-3500 NEVER AGAIN. BUT I HAVE REPLACE IT WITH A RARE TWISTED SOUNDS 3.5KW EVEN BETTER :) KOREN AMPS FOR THE WIN ALL DAY EVERYDAY..........
Ik multiple people that have been running rp-3500 for over 2 plus years🥶 still going strong
I ben running my skar rp 1500.1 for over a year and i have no problems at all with it
I've had an skar rp1500 and a skar 4 channel amp for 4 years with no problems. The rp is on two ZVX8s so I'm using all the amp has too.
If this amps are that good why i find alot of this amps refurbished ??
I have not seen refurbished Skar anywhere.
@@Facekicker i do is why im askin
@@benygarcia1940 People break them or return them. Skar goes over them and makes any repairs then resales them as refurbished. When you say you "find a lot" that is just a tiny fraction of the amount they are selling. I imagine they sell thousands a month.
Cmax is crazy dope. I need one. Love to see a .8 or even half ohm pull also understand if you don't wanna go there. Ive heard skar amps handle it well but who really knows
@kasey ware It does handle it well I have six skar evl 8’s on a taraamps 5 k at .7
Same as my skar rp 1200
I have never seen a certified dyno run on this particular amp. Seems like I made a good purchase. I have it pushing 2 sdr 12s @1 ohm and man does it produce. Makes your ears itch when I crank it up. It's also on stock electrical. Still beats.
Good to know! Stock electrical will carry it
Stock electrical? You probably only getting 700 watts rms, MAYBE.......
How did you have the gain and lpf set ?
The add-1 will tell you to set the gain at 10 DB overlap using the included test CD. The LPF is set to the highest frequency, the subsonic filter is turned down to the lowest frequency or off and the bass boost is set to zero.
I'd like to see it with 1/0 as power and ground
Wouldn't fit without reducers
I just bought some now waiting on amp to get here
Can you do this amp at 1.33 ohm
Yes of course he can
@@6-15sSundown I wanna see the readings at 1.33
Yep it can
When you have the results at 1 ohm and 2 ohm you can accurately calculate the output at 1.33. Certified would be about 1380 watts. 1.66 ohm would be about 1230 watts.
I bought this amp a year ago for $135 refurbished. Beat the crap out of my pioneer 12s champion series. Looking forward to using a single 15 now.
go 18
Nice
You still need to test that Rockville at .8 or .5 now that you have a CMAX bank it might handle it!
Rockville sucks bro YOU NEED TO STEP YOUR BUDGET GAME ASAP :D LOLOLOL
@@________GHOST________ your right I mainly was curious what the Rockville amp board looks like because it was very powerful. Usally Rockville is junk but the 3500 must be using a good board from a better amp.
Skar tests their amps with 16 volts.
How do you know this to be true ?
No they don’t lol
Well 14 did great then jack monkey
I was considering this or the audiopipe 1500. There both real close in ratings. Think this one did little more. But not enough to be a deal breaker. Thanks for dyno 👍plus the audiopipe can be strapped the skar can't 👍😁💯
Ur gonna need to strap it, the ap 1500 only puts out like 1200 watts at one ohm
@@bangin_dubjay wym "strap" it?
@@martinnekesams6806 Strapping means you wire the amps together so their clocks are synchronized and produce a single output. One amp will output the positive signal and the other amp puts out the negative signal.
Just bought it brand new for 100
never had to fk wit the gain
Nice...👍👍👍🇹🇹🇹🇹🇹🇹...
Duh Der da do dood lerpin
Would this amplifier be too many watts for a Sundown Audio Ev.4 subwoofer in a ported box I'm just curious because I was looking at getting the same amp to hook up to my Sundown Audio sub thank you I'd really appreciate some feedback
It'd be a tad bit of headroom for an E series, but would be OK if gain is set properly.
@@Facekicker You can never have too many watts. I overpower everything. 5,000 watts worth of amps, but only use maybe 30 amps of power on average. You can put this RP1500 on a 100 watt sub if you wanted to. You just have to adjust the gain to a reasonable level. You could make it output 100 watts if you want.
@@JasonWW2000 yes that's called headroom