I’m a hobby beek . Up until today, I’ve made finger joint boxes. I think I’m going to switch to this method because it’s easier and as explained, strong enough for the intended purpose. Thanks for the video!
Finally a video with someone actually building a box from scratch. Small point though your strength test shows that wood is strong not the joint you made can hold. It will still hold but the weight is pulling down on the routed shelf not into the side of the box. Great video though thank you.
I agree with you, but then you are talking about "shear strength" of 2" 18-G nails. since that is the load type you would have on a rabbet joint, with frames weighted with honey. The weight would be perpendicular to the nails...hence making your example even stronger than the joint itself, and I think you meant your comment to make the point that this was less strong but you brought up the exact reason you shouldn't worry about it. Shear strength is roughly 150 pounds per nail, and with three nails that's 450 pounds of strength, per corner, the nails can hold, in the direction, you're concerned about...If you've got 450 pounds of honey in a single super...well, can i bring my bees to forage on what yours are :P
I was only stating standing on the frame with your feet directly under the short side is not showing the strength of the joint. If you wanted to show off the strength of the joint, which you were attempting to do, put the long side of the box on a cinder block and stand on the short side pushing down on the joints themselves to show the strength. Either way yes the joint you chose will surly hold I was pointing out your strength test was testing the wrong part. Thank you again for the video. 450 in one super gosh I wish... wait no that would be miserable lol. Your bees would love to come to the lavender and cherry farm but that might be a very long drive.
@@goodcitizen6190 I got you, and yes i agree. Can't go back and do it now though, youtube doesn't let you edit a video and re-upload it, you just have to make a completely new one :(
I used to do this but had warping problems now I just use butt joints never had trouble I have some about 5 years old now and they're in as good or better shape as some commercial boxes. the thing I don't like about finger joints is a hold moisture and if someone puts them together with the crown the wrong way they Pull A Part. I do like these better than finger joints all in all I say good video
Great points baddest bees, I agree 100%. The problem is beekeeping consumers expect finger joints because "thats what everyone sells". Mechanically finger joints are slightly stronger, but with modern glues and nails that strength doesnt matter. We actually wrote an article on this topic here: www.funnybugbees.com/beekeeping-hardware/box-joints-or-rabbet-joints-hive-boxes
Any chance you could share the dimensions for an 8 frame Medium deep? I imagine the process would be exactly the same otherwise? Would love to try building some of these at home, along with the honey super in this video. Thanks!
Of course. Standard 8-frame Langstroth deeps are 9 5/8" high x 19 7/8" long x 13 3/4" wide. These are of course the outside dimensions of the box, so your choice of joinery will effect your actual dimensions.
Thanks, pro-second amendment beekeeper here! For the dimensions, im using 3/4 thick stock. The outside dimensions will change based on the thickness of your stock of course. If you are going to use standard Langstroth frames, then the inside dimensions for all hive bodies will always be the same. The outside dimensions will change based on stock width. So.... 8 Frame Langstroth Inside Dimensions: Length: 18 3/8 wall to wall (19 1/8" if measured inside at the frame rest due to it being 3/8" deep on both ends) Width: 12 1/4" 8 Frame Outside Dimensions are based on a standard stock width of 3/4" and so would be: Length: 19 7/8" Width: 13 3/4"
I use a 3/4 straight bit for both cuts. The Rabbet cut on the short sides of the short board, which is where you connect the long boards to form your box are done using a 3/4 bit set flush to the router fence and set 3/8 above the surface of the table. The second cut along one long edge of the short board, to form the ledge that the frames rest on is also done using a 3/4 bit, but i move the fence past the bit and set the outside of the blade 5/8th from the fence (basically so only 5/8" of the blade is showing). Set its depth to 3/8".
I’m a hobby beek .
Up until today, I’ve made finger joint boxes. I think I’m going to switch to this method because it’s easier and as explained, strong enough for the intended purpose.
Thanks for the video!
I like the way you just saved me a ton of time and work and time as you know is money!
Finally a video with someone actually building a box from scratch. Small point though your strength test shows that wood is strong not the joint you made can hold. It will still hold but the weight is pulling down on the routed shelf not into the side of the box. Great video though thank you.
I agree with you, but then you are talking about "shear strength" of 2" 18-G nails. since that is the load type you would have on a rabbet joint, with frames weighted with honey. The weight would be perpendicular to the nails...hence making your example even stronger than the joint itself, and I think you meant your comment to make the point that this was less strong but you brought up the exact reason you shouldn't worry about it. Shear strength is roughly 150 pounds per nail, and with three nails that's 450 pounds of strength, per corner, the nails can hold, in the direction, you're concerned about...If you've got 450 pounds of honey in a single super...well, can i bring my bees to forage on what yours are :P
I was only stating standing on the frame with your feet directly under the short side is not showing the strength of the joint. If you wanted to show off the strength of the joint, which you were attempting to do, put the long side of the box on a cinder block and stand on the short side pushing down on the joints themselves to show the strength. Either way yes the joint you chose will surly hold I was pointing out your strength test was testing the wrong part. Thank you again for the video. 450 in one super gosh I wish... wait no that would be miserable lol. Your bees would love to come to the lavender and cherry farm but that might be a very long drive.
@@goodcitizen6190 I got you, and yes i agree. Can't go back and do it now though, youtube doesn't let you edit a video and re-upload it, you just have to make a completely new one :(
Thank you for your video. Very straightforward.
Glad it was helpful!
Which mustard is best for the glue?
Are all the measurements the same as any other box or rabbit jointed box?
Yes
What would be the measurement for the short side if it were a 10 frame super?
Do you have the measurements for eight-frame deep with rabbit cuts
Thanks for this video man, Im looking into building my own to save on start up cost
Thanks George! It's an easy project with a few tools. Dont forget to like and subscribe! The channel is new, Ill be posting new videos once a week.
Man dat mustard works good gluing dem boards together
didnt anyone teach you the condiment method? :P
I used to do this but had warping problems now I just use butt joints never had trouble I have some about 5 years old now and they're in as good or better shape as some commercial boxes. the thing I don't like about finger joints is a hold moisture and if someone puts them together with the crown the wrong way they Pull A Part. I do like these better than finger joints all in all I say good video
Great points baddest bees, I agree 100%. The problem is beekeeping consumers expect finger joints because "thats what everyone sells". Mechanically finger joints are slightly stronger, but with modern glues and nails that strength doesnt matter. We actually wrote an article on this topic here: www.funnybugbees.com/beekeeping-hardware/box-joints-or-rabbet-joints-hive-boxes
Any chance you could share the dimensions for an 8 frame Medium deep? I imagine the process would be exactly the same otherwise?
Would love to try building some of these at home, along with the honey super in this video. Thanks!
Of course. Standard 8-frame Langstroth deeps are 9 5/8" high x 19 7/8" long x 13 3/4" wide. These are of course the outside dimensions of the box, so your choice of joinery will effect your actual dimensions.
Funny Bug Bees and Wood Works you mean 19 1/8” ?
What are the end pieces if you wanted to make this a 10-frame box?
16 1/4" short sides if using rabbet joints as i did in the video. You would use a 3/4" router bit (or a 3/4" dado blade) set to a depth of 3/8"
what were the inner and outer measurements of your width and length? Also, the sidearm looks good on you.
Thanks, pro-second amendment beekeeper here! For the dimensions, im using 3/4 thick stock. The outside dimensions will change based on the thickness of your stock of course. If you are going to use standard Langstroth frames, then the inside dimensions for all hive bodies will always be the same. The outside dimensions will change based on stock width. So....
8 Frame Langstroth Inside Dimensions:
Length: 18 3/8 wall to wall (19 1/8" if measured inside at the frame rest due to it being 3/8" deep on both ends)
Width: 12 1/4"
8 Frame Outside Dimensions are based on a standard stock width of 3/4" and so would be:
Length: 19 7/8"
Width: 13 3/4"
Where is your company located at bubble
What router bit did you use
I use a 3/4 straight bit for both cuts. The Rabbet cut on the short sides of the short board, which is where you connect the long boards to form your box are done using a 3/4 bit set flush to the router fence and set 3/8 above the surface of the table. The second cut along one long edge of the short board, to form the ledge that the frames rest on is also done using a 3/4 bit, but i move the fence past the bit and set the outside of the blade 5/8th from the fence (basically so only 5/8" of the blade is showing). Set its depth to 3/8".
Lol I miss dat class but very good channel
thanks sundowner