Here is the multi-faceted entrance reducer I mentioned in the video. www.amazon.com/shop/tennessees-bees. Keep in mind if you are in an area like my buddy in Hawaii where lumber prices are extreme it will cost more to build a nucleus colony.
I am trying to find a place (other than Dadant as their shipping is astronomical) where I can get 5 frame Nuc migratory covers with the hole for the feeder in the middle of the cover.....I've looked at all the companies I know and can't find one.
Kamon I'm 46 years old as you know I'm new at this .. I have to say it again you truly are an amazing teacher... I hope you continue giving yourself the way you do it's just so important how helpful your calm and patient information can be for someone like me thank you so much...
I won't list the name here, but another UA-camr has plans that simplify the frame rest. You basically just cut the front and back shorter (to the height that you would normally cut away with a router, dado, etc.) and then close off each end with the handle. Uses just a little more wood for the handle since it will need to span the entire width of the front/back, but simplifies the whole process. And also, if you like a bottom entrance like on a typical langstroth, you just cut the front .75" shorter yet again and shim it up when you glue/nail it down. That keeps you from having to drill the circular hole.
Please don't take this as critical, but I have built boxes using a similar entrance design and found out the hard way that rain doesn't always fall perfectly vertical. What happens is that water can get inside the nuc box causing both box rot, and more importantly too moist of conditions for the bees. If you're going to use this type of entrance, then you MUST have a way to drain the water. You can drill 1/2 inch holes in the bottom board and screen them with hardware cloth. Alternatively, just put the entrance flush with the bottom board and use a slight tilt forward to prevent water buildup. BTW, you can still use the entrance discs with the bottom entrance of your design.
Great video! I completely agree and appreciate that you kept pounding home that sealing the wood is critical. I have done 2 things regarding that but don't have enough data to make a determination on how effective they are. 1. Any exposed grain, whether it be end grain on the exposed parts of dado cuts or the edges of plywood, I try to use a paint brush and apply Titebond III. Paint isn't thick enough and water repellent enough. I'm hoping that by doing so, it'll lengthen the life of the boxes. Obviously I still paint the boxes with regular latex paint, but that end grain is so much more porous than the rest of the wood, it makes it a failure point. 2. I started setting my circular/table saw at 45 degrees when I create my hand hold strips. I end up with parallel 45s on the top and bottom of each hand hold. There's a downside and an upside (I believe). The downside is that on the bottom you have a sharp edge if you don't sand it. The upside is that where the hand hold attaches to the box there's no place for water to collect. Just thought I'd add those two points for anyone to consider...
Great video, Thanks' for sharing. I work mostly with nucs and make them exactly as you, no screened bottom board helps avoid hive beetles. On my boxes I make the entrance hole with the round plastic disc on the downside of the front and bees will clean out perfectly.
So far I made all my 10 frames boxes and Nuc's. I started with a skill saw, but now I use a used table saw that I bought at Goodwill for $10. I use solid boards because plywood will warp as I found out after making a few Nuc's. I use screws for all of my boxes. Also I use screws for the lids to keep them on the hive for those few plywood lids that I made to keep them from warping. I use bottom entrance since the round side entrance like Kamon had caused me for some reason to have a lot of hive beetles. I use those big handles for most of my hives, makes it easier and safer to carry those boxes. I also use bottom board on all of our boxes, but on the Nuc's I screw them on. This way I can use the Nuc's for different things, like stacking them if I want to or adding entrance feeder which I have done if food is needed. I also make and use feeder rings with vent holes to control overheating.
I nail a couple of pressure-treated 1”X1” cleats on the bottom of mine. Keeps them off the ground & gives me more options for placement. For plywood covers (after I’ve constructed my boats, dune buggies, sky scrapers & such), I spray on the outside a coat of Flex-Seal. It’s supposedly food safe and seems to weather well.
Hi Kamon! Just wanted to say how much I enjoy your videos. I have learnt so much from you so I thank you for that! I attempted to make myself a 5 frame Nuc and I have to say it is just great! My local timber merchant cut the ply to the sizes you gave. I saved £15 (British pounds) and have the knowledge that I made it myself. Not bad for a 62 year old Grandmother!!! The quality ply is far better than what is used by the manufacturers. Going to buy myself a table saw so there’ll be not stopping me! Great work Kamon. Sally UK.
Sally I love your tenacity! I love beekeeping for many reasons. Wood working is something I enjoy too. Thanks for commenting and for being part of our bee world.
I repair my boxes by cutting out rooting or damaged sections and replacing them with new wood where possible. Most deeps that are beyond repair have enough good wood in the sides to cut down to Kamon's end dimensions and use them to make nuc boxes . A side benefit is the rescued ends have handholds.
Hey Kamon, what are you doing for a lid with those? They look really nice. I have given up on the mid hole you have and gone back to the hole right down the bottom. I found over here that the Bee's didn't always clear all the rubbish out due to it's location, and the small debris gave the wax moth a sneak little hide out for their lava, despite having a really strong colony. Bottom hole also allowed water to escape if we had a crazy storm and down pour. Just my learning, might not be applicable to your area of course.
I use 3/4" ply for the sides, then I use two pieces of 3/8" ply stacked to create the end boards. Then you can just rip everything to size and you stack the two boards for the ends creating the frame rest. Without having to do any precision cuts to create the rest or using a dado. Also, if you don't have a table saw, but have a lowes/home depot that isn't busy. You can pay them 25 cents a cut for them to rip it on the panel saw. You can cut multiple pieces at the same time to save on the number of cuts. You can google "D Coates Nuc" for the measurements. I just use a full endboard for the front and back, instead of the little piece for the frame rest.
That’s a good idea for the end pieces. My Timber merchant cut the ply but couldn’t route a groove for the frames on the ends. Will use 3/8 as you suggested. Thanks KR.
If you use migratory type covers, you don't have to cut the fancy frame rests, you can just cut a handle piece and secure it across the top of the ends. It makes the build a tad easier and quicker. The ends have to be made shorter, they only need cut to length so the top of the board is the bottom of the frame rest. Then you have your frame rest and your extra HD handle incorporated without the mess of the two part frame rest cut. Use a HD lid because that 1/4 ply as a lid will warp and I don't care how well you seal it. Don't ask how I know, lol.
@@sentimentalbloke7586 Well I forgot to mention you'd probably want to shorten the length of the box a bit as well or the frames will have more wiggle room than usual. I built several of these a few years ago and didn't realize until I had most of the frame rests cut that I could have saved a lot of trouble with the little change. As a side not, those boxes work fantastically, I still have those originals but the original lids did warp badly. Changed them out and they have bees in them now still to this day.
Brent, I build them the same way, using the handle across the top of the box instead of cutting a rabbet for a frame rest. The top of the end wall is the frame rest. I use 1/2" plywood so the dimensions come out easier.
@@Digger927 I used the dimensions that I got off this site and they worked well very little offcut from a full sheet of ply, I use mine to do splits, and for small swarms and they suit the job well.
Awsome video!! I made my very first nuc exactly like that. What I did was screw a 5" x 1/4" round piece of oak by entrance and made vent holes in half and 1" round opening in the other half. I can spin it to close it if I needed to move nuc. Thanks Kamon
Good day Mr Reynolds. That's a really nice box I prefer bottom entrance instead of middle. I watch your Channel all the time you're very knowledgeable thank you keep it coming.
Hey gary I also think bottom is better but the bees will do well in a hole entrance and for some this may be easier to build. Thanks for watching and I hope you and your bees are doing well.
I have started building a few five frame nuc boxes myself as I want to start building bees instead of buying them. I'm also trying some boxes made from polystyrene as they have a better R-value when it comes to overwintering. I will be trying those next winter. Thanks for the build dimensions and as always thanks for sharing.
I have just finished making 20 X 10 frame boxes. I am using pine wood. The box with lid costs me less than $10 a piece. However, I will now make 5 frame Nucs as demonstrated by you. I am anxious to see how they perform in the spring season next year. Your method seems easy to follow. Thanks.
I just made my first one the other day! That is why I asked in last nights chat; How long I should leave a small cutout in there before I move them to an 8 frame? WILL BE WAITING TO SEE ALL THE THINGS I CAN DO WITH IT!! keep up the great teamwork videos! It's just the down to earth instructions I need. :)
Another issue I found with plywood and NOT putting something on the inside, which you wouldn't have to with a solid box, is the ply sides warp when they get damp from bee humidity. Some warp out, some warp in and eliminate the outer frame surfaces. Time to make new ones.
Great video, thanks for not cutting it out on camera, you are correct that we all know how to use a saw. One shortcut/improvement would be to make the frame hangars using the metal reinforcements Dadent sells for a quarter each (L Shaped Rabbets Part Number M00722) and a simple cleat stapled on the front and rear panels. You could also use larger piece of 3/8 or 1/2" ply if concerned about the extra 3/8" of space at the frame ends. No fancy cutting and the benefit of the steel reinforced hangar surface, easier to keep clean and slide frames on. If you don't care about the metal reinforcement, just use a cleat or panel of ply stapled in place.
I use 3/4" for the sides and a 2 layer stack of 3/8" plywood for the ends. This is so I don't have to cut the rabbits, the inside of the 3/8" plywood stack is sized to create the rabbits for the frame rest/sides.
Try connecting a bottom board then dividing. You can run two in one if you're clever. Then you stack nuc boxes and if you have a good flow you can collect honey from the double-nuc. (Duplex)
I do all my cuts on the table saw, just take your time cutting the frame rests, I use rough sawn lumber from band sawmill, take your time to figure out Langstroth's inside measurements and then go to it, I can make a lot of nucs in a day, I make bottomless boxes for supers and my holes are smaller-one in bottom front and one in back at the top and supers the hole is at the top, that way the bees can defend the two smaller holes and gets rid of heat/moisture- overwintering
If you don’t want to buy those round, multipurpose entrance discs, you can easily make them out of dog-food lids with ring-pulls (don’t gotta dog? Get one.). Drill a screw hole in the center. 180 degrees from the pull, cut out a one quarter (90 degree) triangle, not quite to the center hole. To one side, drill a bunch of small(1/16 - 1/8”) holes. Other side, cut a 3/8” square. So, you have available options of large entrance, small robber/mouse guard entrance, and closed, vented entrance, with a ring pull to grasp and turn. The hole in the wood needs to be just slightly less in diameter than half the lid diameter, so you’d likely need a second, screened opening elsewhere. I build mine with a 3/4 x 3 1/2 opening at the back, to snugly fit a Boardman feeder, so a little strip of #8 hardware screen can be tacked over that if a vent is needed.
Beesource.com has free plans for nucs. The D. Coates design will build 4 nucs with one sheet but the measurements in the plans are for using 1/2 in plywood. About 3 dollars each to build
Great and easy method Kamon! Just started to build our own boxes as well and gonna start building nucs as well, planning to use the rabbit joint as you talked a little about early in the video, last thing to do id sell the boxes, thanks for sharing and god bless!
PERFEKT!!! EXACTLY what I needed to see Kamon I plan to build myself a insulated horizontal full langstroth hive now in winter / spring, it will be insulated extra because we have so long & cold winters up here in the middle of Sweden! I am a pensioner with a weak economy so I have to build my box of junk and the same with the frames !!! Should also try to make a smoke can in copper but we will see how it goes ?? Need to buy protective hat & jacket, gloves unfortunately :( Also need qeen catch, mark pen and all other things because I start from scratch: D But it will be exciting to try to catch a community out in a nukebox TACK!!!
To me one of the best things about a 5 frame nuk for the person with only a few hives is the nuk grows so fast you can always pull a frame of capped brood and give it to another colony to boost honey production.
I thought the out set handles would be great, but for me they turned out to be more of a hassle for myself so I went back to cutting in my handles. Besides, I can put that extra wood to better use elsewhere like building top cover and inner cover frames. I use solid pine for all my boxes and the drops go into bottoms, inner covers and top covers as well as entrance reducers giving me almost zero waste.
How many 2 frames boxes do you need ive got 20 or so I'd like to get out of my way, i built them an only used one yr, are nice painted an ready to go. if interested.? Just to time consuming for my operation
@@waynewatson-cedarbranchhiv8491 I am looking to have about 10-12 total (I already have a few built using scrap lumber). I am looking to do some small scale queen rearing this year and thing that number should do the trick. Whereabouts are you? I am up in central Maine.
@@gileshoney5796 , ohh your along way from me , im in se Missouri, these are all made out of 1×12s an have migratory type tops, if further interested i could send you pics . ?
@@waynewatson-cedarbranchhiv8491 If you were closer I would be interested, but Missouri is quite a ways from Maine. Thanks anyway though and happy beekeeping :)
Since you covered nuc box building and stated these can be used for swarm traps, when should we start putting traps out? I live in central Mississippi and don’t want to miss that window of hives swarming, any advice would be appreciated, Thanks for all the videos tips and advice,
This year I’m going to add some frame stabilization to mine. After setting up the bee space, I’m going to drill vertical holes in the frame rest to add dowel pins to keep the frames from sliding. I’m brainstorming on if I can add something to the bottom of the outside frames to completely stop shifting and rocking during transport.
In one of the (100) videos I watched in the past week, one said the old timers would burn the inside of the box to kill the new box smell on their swarm traps. The thought behind that is many times lightening hits a tree and leave a burned out hollow, and bees are usually found in these burnt tree trunks. In a case like that painting the inside wouldn't work. Good thing I have some free plywood so rotting won't be an issue.
Thanks Kamon and Laura! Great video! You said to paint all of the pieces before putting them together. What glue sticks to paint as well as to wood? My search says NOT Titebond III.
I make these boxes but I use bottom entrance 3 inches wide so my oa vapor wand will fit in to treat.I guess if you use a pro vapor the top hole would be ok.I like having a way to treat my nucs especially the ones I'm over wintering
Hey Kamon? Measure twice cut once? No wonder I have problems, I thought it was mean sure once, cut twice! Maybe you can help me with “buy high, sell low” as well. Stu
Right now I am making up 50 five frame nuc boxes for this year. You should show how to make a dcoats version for people without datoblades. Also mention the difference in height between the base unit and the second story boxes.
Yeah! If I just staple a board on as a bottom it violates bee space and eventually you crush a queen putting her into the box. I built one of them fancy nuc boxes you use as a toolbox or to carry bees around and I made that mistake. You need little nuc bottom boards to do it right imo.
I made a few 2 frame nucs, but the rest will have 5 frames, I'll just use follower boards. I love my Mann Lake nucs, but I can build them so much cheaper.
Kamon. Is your cdx plywood pressure treated? I could only find cdx plywood that was pressure treated so I just used regular 3/4 inch plywood. I appreciate that you gave us all the dimensions for the nuc. Built 4 of them today. They came out great. And I’m no wood worker.
I like your idea of a solid wood board for your handles. Suggestion. What about tapering the handle so that it is 3/4" wide at the bottom and say an 1/8" or even 1/16" at the top so it doesn't pond water when it rains. That way you can still have a flat surface to glue it on as well as screws. Also would it be better to screw it in from the inside so the screws are not exposed? Maybe I am trying to build a Cadillac instead of a bee box. Hahaha!
@@kamonreynolds Is there a possible market for a tapered handle? I was thinking of using 5/4 x 6 decking, which is about 1-1/16" thick x 5 1/2" wide x 12' or even 16' long boards, pressure treated of course. It could be be ripped in three cuts. Ripe the board in half, then set the angle so that in two more angle rips you have 4 finished pieces 1-3/8" wide pieces with each having a taper. Then it is only a matter of cutting the pieces into a length based on what size hive you have, 3, 4 or 5 frame nuc, 8 frame box or 10 frame box or offer a custom length. Your thoughts?
Hey Kamon, I have seen a lot of nucs and most are made from 1/2" cheap plywood. They seem to work for what they are used for but I am old school and I always figure bigger is better. I prefer 3/4" wood like you but plywood is straighter and cheaper. I am starting out with 1/2" just because of the cost. What are your thoughts since you probably have seen both?
Uh you didn't mention they are an awesome SWARM TRAP. Nuk Boxes are your friends.😁😁😁😁. Oh just an added edit. I still holes in my nuk and cover with screen but I am in Florida. But you can still holes about 8 or 9 mm right under you cover. That will allow the bees to travel through, added ventilation, and it is small enough they can glue it shut. Here in Florida high moisture plays hell on boxes. Plywood works. My front and back I use two layers. My frame landing is easy. There are plans for a jig to cut handles in a box.
hi Kamon Love the five frame Nuc. Looking for more information on wax dripping and product selection can you Help thanks. Love your family Walter from Washington State
Here is the multi-faceted entrance reducer I mentioned in the video. www.amazon.com/shop/tennessees-bees.
Keep in mind if you are in an area like my buddy in Hawaii where lumber prices are extreme it will cost more to build a nucleus colony.
good stuff
I am trying to find a place (other than Dadant as their shipping is astronomical) where I can get 5 frame Nuc migratory covers with the hole for the feeder in the
middle of the cover.....I've looked at all the companies I know and can't find one.
Keep in mind prices for lumber have gone way up since the video aired significantly
Sad i got into beekeeping at the wrong time.
Kamon I'm 46 years old as you know I'm new at this .. I have to say it again you truly are an amazing teacher... I hope you continue giving yourself the way you do it's just so important how helpful your calm and patient information can be for someone like me thank you so much...
Thanks glad it helps
I second that …
I cut my hole, with a hole saw and at an angle to help keep the water from going in.
It is a pleasure to listen to you. Everytime you talk, you have information AND the reasoning as to why.
I won't list the name here, but another UA-camr has plans that simplify the frame rest. You basically just cut the front and back shorter (to the height that you would normally cut away with a router, dado, etc.) and then close off each end with the handle. Uses just a little more wood for the handle since it will need to span the entire width of the front/back, but simplifies the whole process. And also, if you like a bottom entrance like on a typical langstroth, you just cut the front .75" shorter yet again and shim it up when you glue/nail it down. That keeps you from having to drill the circular hole.
Please don't take this as critical, but I have built boxes using a similar entrance design and found out the hard way that rain doesn't always fall perfectly vertical. What happens is that water can get inside the nuc box causing both box rot, and more importantly too moist of conditions for the bees. If you're going to use this type of entrance, then you MUST have a way to drain the water. You can drill 1/2 inch holes in the bottom board and screen them with hardware cloth. Alternatively, just put the entrance flush with the bottom board and use a slight tilt forward to prevent water buildup. BTW, you can still use the entrance discs with the bottom entrance of your design.
Great video!
I completely agree and appreciate that you kept pounding home that sealing the wood is critical. I have done 2 things regarding that but don't have enough data to make a determination on how effective they are.
1. Any exposed grain, whether it be end grain on the exposed parts of dado cuts or the edges of plywood, I try to use a paint brush and apply Titebond III. Paint isn't thick enough and water repellent enough. I'm hoping that by doing so, it'll lengthen the life of the boxes. Obviously I still paint the boxes with regular latex paint, but that end grain is so much more porous than the rest of the wood, it makes it a failure point.
2. I started setting my circular/table saw at 45 degrees when I create my hand hold strips. I end up with parallel 45s on the top and bottom of each hand hold. There's a downside and an upside (I believe). The downside is that on the bottom you have a sharp edge if you don't sand it. The upside is that where the hand hold attaches to the box there's no place for water to collect.
Just thought I'd add those two points for anyone to consider...
Great video, Thanks' for sharing. I work mostly with nucs and make them exactly as you, no screened bottom board helps avoid hive beetles. On my boxes I make the entrance hole with the round plastic disc on the downside of the front and bees will clean out perfectly.
So far I made all my 10 frames boxes and Nuc's. I started with a skill saw, but now I use a used table saw that I bought at Goodwill for $10.
I use solid boards because plywood will warp as I found out after making a few Nuc's. I use screws for all of my boxes. Also I use screws for the lids to keep them on the hive for those few plywood lids that I made to keep them from warping. I use bottom entrance since the round side entrance like Kamon had caused me for some reason to have a lot of hive beetles.
I use those big handles for most of my hives, makes it easier and safer to carry those boxes.
I also use bottom board on all of our boxes, but on the Nuc's I screw them on. This way I can use the Nuc's for different things, like stacking them if I want to or adding entrance feeder which I have done if food is needed.
I also make and use feeder rings with vent holes to control overheating.
I nail a couple of pressure-treated 1”X1” cleats on the bottom of mine. Keeps them off the ground & gives me more options for placement. For plywood covers (after I’ve constructed my boats, dune buggies, sky scrapers & such), I spray on the outside a coat of Flex-Seal. It’s supposedly food safe and seems to weather well.
I live in Florida and I am going to try that. The moisture here is hell on woodenware.
Thanks, I've been thinking about the most cost effective way to make about 30 nucs. At $4 a piece that fits the bill perfectly!
Hi Kamon! Just wanted to say how much I enjoy your videos. I have learnt so much from you so I thank you for that! I attempted to make myself a 5 frame Nuc and I have to say it is just great! My local timber merchant cut the ply to the sizes you gave. I saved £15 (British pounds) and have the knowledge that I made it myself. Not bad for a 62 year old Grandmother!!! The quality ply is far better than what is used by the manufacturers. Going to buy myself a table saw so there’ll be not stopping me! Great work Kamon. Sally UK.
Sally I love your tenacity! I love beekeeping for many reasons. Wood working is something I enjoy too. Thanks for commenting and for being part of our bee world.
I love your videos. Thank you for your time producing them and education.
Thank you sir for your informative video. Looking forward to more videos.
I know of a wood mill around my area. They are giving away boat load of plywood daily. I'm sure to take advantage of it
I repair my boxes by cutting out rooting or damaged sections and replacing them with new wood where possible. Most deeps that are beyond repair have enough good wood in the sides to cut down to Kamon's end dimensions and use them to make nuc boxes . A side benefit is the rescued ends have handholds.
we have been building our own equipment for 20 years.and a lot of our boxes are 20 years old and older we use white oak and pine for our frames.
Hey Kamon, what are you doing for a lid with those? They look really nice. I have given up on the mid hole you have and gone back to the hole right down the bottom. I found over here that the Bee's didn't always clear all the rubbish out due to it's location, and the small debris gave the wax moth a sneak little hide out for their lava, despite having a really strong colony. Bottom hole also allowed water to escape if we had a crazy storm and down pour. Just my learning, might not be applicable to your area of course.
Thanks for the video Kanin. It’s great you gave simple directions with dimensions.
Thanks Dwayne.
I use 3/4" ply for the sides, then I use two pieces of 3/8" ply stacked to create the end boards.
Then you can just rip everything to size and you stack the two boards for the ends creating the frame rest.
Without having to do any precision cuts to create the rest or using a dado.
Also, if you don't have a table saw, but have a lowes/home depot that isn't busy. You can pay them 25 cents a cut for them to rip it on the panel saw. You can cut multiple pieces at the same time to save on the number of cuts.
You can google "D Coates Nuc" for the measurements. I just use a full endboard for the front and back, instead of the little piece for the frame rest.
That’s a good idea for the end pieces. My Timber merchant cut the ply but couldn’t route a groove for the frames on the ends. Will use 3/8 as you suggested. Thanks KR.
If you use migratory type covers, you don't have to cut the fancy frame rests, you can just cut a handle piece and secure it across the top of the ends. It makes the build a tad easier and quicker. The ends have to be made shorter, they only need cut to length so the top of the board is the bottom of the frame rest. Then you have your frame rest and your extra HD handle incorporated without the mess of the two part frame rest cut. Use a HD lid because that 1/4 ply as a lid will warp and I don't care how well you seal it. Don't ask how I know, lol.
Well said Brent was trying to work out how to explain how to do it and read your comment and you nailed it.
@@sentimentalbloke7586 Well I forgot to mention you'd probably want to shorten the length of the box a bit as well or the frames will have more wiggle room than usual. I built several of these a few years ago and didn't realize until I had most of the frame rests cut that I could have saved a lot of trouble with the little change. As a side not, those boxes work fantastically, I still have those originals but the original lids did warp badly. Changed them out and they have bees in them now still to this day.
Brent, I build them the same way, using the handle across the top of the box instead of cutting a rabbet for a frame rest. The top of the end wall is the frame rest. I use 1/2" plywood so the dimensions come out easier.
@@Digger927 I used the dimensions that I got off this site and they worked well very little offcut from a full sheet of ply, I use mine to do splits, and for small swarms and they suit the job well.
What is a ''HD"" and thank you for your comment.
Great timing i'm getting ready to build several i want them for swarm traps for the most part i would like to see your lids close up thanks guys.
Awsome video!! I made my very first nuc exactly like that. What I did was screw a 5" x 1/4" round piece of oak by entrance and made vent holes in half and 1" round opening in the other half. I can spin it to close it if I needed to move nuc. Thanks Kamon
Good day Mr Reynolds. That's a really nice box I prefer bottom entrance instead of middle. I watch your Channel all the time you're very knowledgeable thank you keep it coming.
Hey gary I also think bottom is better but the bees will do well in a hole entrance and for some this may be easier to build. Thanks for watching and I hope you and your bees are doing well.
I have started building a few five frame nuc boxes myself as I want to start building bees instead of buying them. I'm also trying some boxes made from polystyrene as they have a better R-value when it comes to overwintering. I will be trying those next winter. Thanks for the build dimensions and as always thanks for sharing.
I have just finished making 20 X 10 frame boxes. I am using pine wood. The box with lid costs me less than $10 a piece. However, I will now make 5 frame Nucs as demonstrated by you. I am anxious to see how they perform in the spring season next year. Your method seems easy to follow. Thanks.
we do our hand grips on a RAS with an extra 10 degrees and they work so much better.
I just made my first one the other day! That is why I asked in last nights chat;
How long I should leave a small cutout in there before I move them to an 8 frame? WILL BE WAITING TO SEE ALL THE THINGS I CAN DO WITH IT!! keep up the great teamwork videos! It's just the down to earth instructions I need. :)
Paula, You want to be able to move 4 to 5 frames of bees to the 8 frame box.
Another issue I found with plywood and NOT putting something on the inside, which you wouldn't have to with a solid box, is the ply sides warp when they get damp from bee humidity. Some warp out, some warp in and eliminate the outer frame surfaces. Time to make new ones.
Perfect!!!! Thanks!!!! Great info!!!!
Great video, thanks for not cutting it out on camera, you are correct that we all know how to use a saw.
One shortcut/improvement would be to make the frame hangars using the metal reinforcements Dadent sells for a quarter each (L Shaped Rabbets Part Number M00722) and a simple cleat stapled on the front and rear panels. You could also use larger piece of 3/8 or 1/2" ply if concerned about the extra 3/8" of space at the frame ends.
No fancy cutting and the benefit of the steel reinforced hangar surface, easier to keep clean and slide frames on.
If you don't care about the metal reinforcement, just use a cleat or panel of ply stapled in place.
Great video looking forward to your next one
Thank you 😊
I use 3/4" for the sides and a 2 layer stack of 3/8" plywood for the ends. This is so I don't have to cut the rabbits, the inside of the 3/8" plywood stack is sized to create the rabbits for the frame rest/sides.
Advantech sheets are also really good material to work with. It will last a lot longer than regular plywood.
Ive started cutting 10 frame deep boxes in half an making nucs, can cut bottom boards too
skooterbumm great idea to recycle ole boxes
Try connecting a bottom board then dividing. You can run two in one if you're clever.
Then you stack nuc boxes and if you have a good flow you can collect honey from the double-nuc. (Duplex)
I do all my cuts on the table saw, just take your time cutting the frame rests, I use rough sawn lumber from band sawmill, take your time to figure out Langstroth's inside measurements and then go to it, I can make a lot of nucs in a day, I make bottomless boxes for supers and my holes are smaller-one in bottom front and one in back at the top and supers the hole is at the top, that way the bees can defend the two smaller holes and gets rid of heat/moisture- overwintering
Great information! Thanks for the measurements
I use a router table to cut the frame rest
If you don’t want to buy those round, multipurpose entrance discs, you can easily make them out of dog-food lids with ring-pulls (don’t gotta dog? Get one.). Drill a screw hole in the center. 180 degrees from the pull, cut out a one quarter (90 degree) triangle, not quite to the center hole. To one side, drill a bunch of small(1/16 - 1/8”) holes. Other side, cut a 3/8” square. So, you have available options of large entrance, small robber/mouse guard entrance, and closed, vented entrance, with a ring pull to grasp and turn. The hole in the wood needs to be just slightly less in diameter than half the lid diameter, so you’d likely need a second, screened opening elsewhere. I build mine with a 3/4 x 3 1/2 opening at the back, to snugly fit a Boardman feeder, so a little strip of #8 hardware screen can be tacked over that if a vent is needed.
I wil be making some nucs out of WBP plywood i have seen some plans where you can get 5 nucs from one sheet of ply
4 nucs
Beesource.com has free plans for nucs. The D. Coates design will build 4 nucs with one sheet but the measurements in the plans are for using 1/2 in plywood. About 3 dollars each to build
Cade Rector ,yep agree with you I just recently made my own, I got 4 nucs out of one sheet and they take 5 frames.
Good looking nuc boxes. Even I can build these.
Great and easy method Kamon! Just started to build our own boxes as well and gonna start building nucs as well, planning to use the rabbit joint as you talked a little about early in the video, last thing to do id sell the boxes, thanks for sharing and god bless!
PERFEKT!!! EXACTLY what I needed to see Kamon I plan to build myself a insulated horizontal full langstroth hive now in winter / spring, it will be insulated extra because we have so long & cold winters up here in the middle of Sweden! I am a pensioner with a weak economy so I have to build my box of junk and the same with the frames !!! Should also try to make a smoke can in copper but we will see how it goes ?? Need to buy protective hat & jacket, gloves unfortunately :( Also need qeen catch, mark pen and all other things because I start from scratch: D But it will be exciting to try to catch a community out in a nukebox TACK!!!
Nice video! I've made very similar boxes, but with 1/2" plywood. They worked great.
To me one of the best things about a 5 frame nuk for the person with only a few hives is the nuk grows so fast you can always pull a frame of capped brood and give it to another colony to boost honey production.
Thanks! I’ll be building a few this weekend!
I thought the out set handles would be great, but for me they turned out to be more of a hassle for myself so I went back to cutting in my handles.
Besides, I can put that extra wood to better use elsewhere like building top cover and inner cover frames.
I use solid pine for all my boxes and the drops go into bottoms, inner covers and top covers as well as entrance reducers giving me almost zero waste.
I am working on my 2-frame boxes now but will need a dozen or so 5-frame boxes by the end of the year. Thanks for sharing.
How many 2 frames boxes do you need ive got 20 or so I'd like to get out of my way, i built them an only used one yr, are nice painted an ready to go. if interested.? Just to time consuming for my operation
@@waynewatson-cedarbranchhiv8491 I am looking to have about 10-12 total (I already have a few built using scrap lumber). I am looking to do some small scale queen rearing this year and thing that number should do the trick. Whereabouts are you? I am up in central Maine.
@@gileshoney5796 , ohh your along way from me , im in se Missouri, these are all made out of 1×12s an have migratory type tops, if further interested i could send you pics . ?
@@waynewatson-cedarbranchhiv8491 If you were closer I would be interested, but Missouri is quite a ways from Maine. Thanks anyway though and happy beekeeping :)
@@gileshoney5796 yes it is a long way, good luck to you this yr. !! 🐝🐝
Since you covered nuc box building and stated these can be used for swarm traps, when should we start putting traps out? I live in central Mississippi and don’t want to miss that window of hives swarming, any advice would be appreciated,
Thanks for all the videos tips and advice,
Thanks Kamon, do you have the plan for the lid too?
This year I’m going to add some frame stabilization to mine. After setting up the bee space, I’m going to drill vertical holes in the frame rest to add dowel pins to keep the frames from sliding. I’m brainstorming on if I can add something to the bottom of the outside frames to completely stop shifting and rocking during transport.
Solutions create problems..
Thanks for not making the video super long and making us fast forward through you cutting and glueing all the pieces.
Thanks Kamon!!
Your welcome
In one of the (100) videos I watched in the past week, one said the old timers would burn the inside of the box to kill the new box smell on their swarm traps. The thought behind that is many times lightening hits a tree and leave a burned out hollow, and bees are usually found in these burnt tree trunks.
In a case like that painting the inside wouldn't work. Good thing I have some free plywood so rotting won't be an issue.
It was also a method of sanitising used hives
for the joints use some wood glue mix with very fine saw dust
Hi Kamon, can you seal the outside of hive boxes with fiberglass resin, to include the ply edges?
Handal placement great point..
Thanks Kamon and Laura! Great video! You said to paint all of the pieces before putting them together. What glue sticks to paint as well as to wood? My search says NOT Titebond III.
Titebond 3 is a waterproof wood glue that would seal and bond those joints. Thanks Kamon
Titebond makes top shelf wood glue. Version 3 would be the most ideal building nucs thanks for letting us know! I forgot to mention that!
@@kamonreynolds Kreg makes a pocket hole jig that creates a very strong but joint also.
I used the inside /outside tidebond 3 glue for years now with very good results.
I make these boxes but I use bottom entrance 3 inches wide so my oa vapor wand will fit in to treat.I guess if you use a pro vapor the top hole would be ok.I like having a way to treat my nucs especially the ones I'm over wintering
Hey Kamon? Measure twice cut once? No wonder I have problems, I thought it was mean sure once, cut twice! Maybe you can help me with “buy high, sell low” as well. Stu
Great video!!!!
You should try PolyWhey it seals the wood up greatly
Thanks for sharing..
Just wondering what size top you put on these.... over hang? You never discussed...
I'm wondering the same.
Could you make a video on how to do this with a 10-frame langstroth?
Right now I am making up 50 five frame nuc boxes for this year. You should show how to make a dcoats version for people without datoblades. Also mention the difference in height between the base unit and the second story boxes.
Yeah! If I just staple a board on as a bottom it violates bee space and eventually you crush a queen putting her into the box. I built one of them fancy nuc boxes you use as a toolbox or to carry bees around and I made that mistake.
You need little nuc bottom boards to do it right imo.
You don't need a dado to cut the frame rests. Just one cut 3/4 deep then another 3/8 deep to meet the 3/4.
Nice job Kamon!
Thanks !!
Perfect. Just want I wanted to know.
Great vid where’s the top, and what type frames fit the box please
thanks
I made a few 2 frame nucs, but the rest will have 5 frames, I'll just use follower boards. I love my Mann Lake nucs, but I can build them so much cheaper.
Thanks, Kamon. Do you have plans/measurements or a video for the TDNs?
I don't yet.
Kamon. Is your cdx plywood pressure treated? I could only find cdx plywood that was pressure treated so I just used regular 3/4 inch plywood. I appreciate that you gave us all the dimensions for the nuc. Built 4 of them today. They came out great. And I’m no wood worker.
could you make a video on how a matting nut works and how to set one up. I'm wanting to grow my apiary?
Hey Evan we have one or two somewhere but we will be doing more soon
I like your idea of a solid wood board for your handles. Suggestion. What about tapering the handle so that it is 3/4" wide at the bottom and say an 1/8" or even 1/16" at the top so it doesn't pond water when it rains. That way you can still have a flat surface to glue it on as well as screws. Also would it be better to screw it in from the inside so the screws are not exposed? Maybe I am trying to build a Cadillac instead of a bee box. Hahaha!
That handle would be sweet and if we were not trying to keep it simple for those with fewer tools we totally would have done a tapered handle.
@@kamonreynolds Is there a possible market for a tapered handle? I was thinking of using 5/4 x 6 decking, which is about 1-1/16" thick x 5 1/2" wide x 12' or even 16' long boards, pressure treated of course. It could be be ripped in three cuts. Ripe the board in half, then set the angle so that in two more angle rips you have 4 finished pieces 1-3/8" wide pieces with each having a taper. Then it is only a matter of cutting the pieces into a length based on what size hive you have, 3, 4 or 5 frame nuc, 8 frame box or 10 frame box or offer a custom length. Your thoughts?
oh boy did you count the bottom board on the height measurement.
Hey Kamon, I have seen a lot of nucs and most are made from 1/2" cheap plywood. They seem to work for what they are used for but I am old school and I always figure bigger is better. I prefer 3/4" wood like you but plywood is straighter and cheaper. I am starting out with 1/2" just because of the cost. What are your thoughts since you probably have seen both?
Nice simply dimentions.
What sort of lid or roof do you put on the nucs?
I'm thinking about treating the plywood with Thompson's Water Sealer on all sides and ends. Thoughts?
Uh you didn't mention they are an awesome SWARM TRAP. Nuk Boxes are your friends.😁😁😁😁. Oh just an added edit. I still holes in my nuk and cover with screen but I am in Florida. But you can still holes about 8 or 9 mm right under you cover. That will allow the bees to travel through, added ventilation, and it is small enough they can glue it shut. Here in Florida high moisture plays hell on boxes. Plywood works. My front and back I use two layers. My frame landing is easy. There are plans for a jig to cut handles in a box.
Glue and screw the joints, prime and paint with very good oil base paint and they will last ur lift time with one more good painting
thanks for the video where can i find the plans for your nucs?
What are you sealing with if you are a beginner... type of paint?
Latex primer with a latex exterior works very well and the clean up is easy
what's the lid diameter,you didn't give those ? thanks good videos.
Thanks for the great video.. Can you comment on what dimensions I'd need for a 6 frame nuc?
I really don't know right off. I have never built one. Ian stepper uses a bunch though
Kaymon:
Do you put a vent in the back of he 5-frame nuc, also I use a solid screen in the bottom.
I am putting some vent in these colonies I will try to address that in the next video. During summer it is crucial
hi Kamon Love the five frame Nuc. Looking for more information on wax dripping and product selection can you Help thanks. Love your family Walter from Washington State
Sure thing might have dipping video next week
Great video. Is this nuc compatible with national hive frames? Or langstroth hive frames? Thanks
Thanks Luke! This is for Langstroth frames and not for national hives
Awesome
I built my 5 frame nucleus box is very similar to the one in your video. My question is do you add any ventilation besides the entrance.
What is the inside length and width of the five frame nuc? First time watching your video thanks for sharing.
Are you making those nuc boxes deep enough to handle a large queen cell hanging off a deep frame?
Hi Nancy yes I am. That is one thing I failed to mention in the video on why we make them deeper
Question hole is centered? got the 1 1/2 dia Thanks
If you make you ends shorter and use cleats you don’t have to cut them frame rest
What are your thoughts on using Eco Wood treatment on plywood?
Does not work well at all
Thanks!
Did I miss when you dimensioned and showed the lid?