🔵Building a 5 frame nuc for JUST $4!!!!
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- How to save money building a nuc!
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Here is the multi-faceted entrance reducer I mentioned in the video. www.amazon.com/shop/tennessees-bees.
Keep in mind if you are in an area like my buddy in Hawaii where lumber prices are extreme it will cost more to build a nucleus colony.
good stuff
I am trying to find a place (other than Dadant as their shipping is astronomical) where I can get 5 frame Nuc migratory covers with the hole for the feeder in the
middle of the cover.....I've looked at all the companies I know and can't find one.
Keep in mind prices for lumber have gone way up since the video aired significantly
Sad i got into beekeeping at the wrong time.
I cut my hole, with a hole saw and at an angle to help keep the water from going in.
I won't list the name here, but another UA-camr has plans that simplify the frame rest. You basically just cut the front and back shorter (to the height that you would normally cut away with a router, dado, etc.) and then close off each end with the handle. Uses just a little more wood for the handle since it will need to span the entire width of the front/back, but simplifies the whole process. And also, if you like a bottom entrance like on a typical langstroth, you just cut the front .75" shorter yet again and shim it up when you glue/nail it down. That keeps you from having to drill the circular hole.
Kamon I'm 46 years old as you know I'm new at this .. I have to say it again you truly are an amazing teacher... I hope you continue giving yourself the way you do it's just so important how helpful your calm and patient information can be for someone like me thank you so much...
Thanks glad it helps
I second that …
Hey Kamon, what are you doing for a lid with those? They look really nice. I have given up on the mid hole you have and gone back to the hole right down the bottom. I found over here that the Bee's didn't always clear all the rubbish out due to it's location, and the small debris gave the wax moth a sneak little hide out for their lava, despite having a really strong colony. Bottom hole also allowed water to escape if we had a crazy storm and down pour. Just my learning, might not be applicable to your area of course.
I wil be making some nucs out of WBP plywood i have seen some plans where you can get 5 nucs from one sheet of ply
4 nucs
Beesource.com has free plans for nucs. The D. Coates design will build 4 nucs with one sheet but the measurements in the plans are for using 1/2 in plywood. About 3 dollars each to build
Cade Rector ,yep agree with you I just recently made my own, I got 4 nucs out of one sheet and they take 5 frames.
I use 3/4" ply for the sides, then I use two pieces of 3/8" ply stacked to create the end boards.
Then you can just rip everything to size and you stack the two boards for the ends creating the frame rest.
Without having to do any precision cuts to create the rest or using a dado.
Also, if you don't have a table saw, but have a lowes/home depot that isn't busy. You can pay them 25 cents a cut for them to rip it on the panel saw. You can cut multiple pieces at the same time to save on the number of cuts.
You can google "D Coates Nuc" for the measurements. I just use a full endboard for the front and back, instead of the little piece for the frame rest.
That’s a good idea for the end pieces. My Timber merchant cut the ply but couldn’t route a groove for the frames on the ends. Will use 3/8 as you suggested. Thanks KR.
Please don't take this as critical, but I have built boxes using a similar entrance design and found out the hard way that rain doesn't always fall perfectly vertical. What happens is that water can get inside the nuc box causing both box rot, and more importantly too moist of conditions for the bees. If you're going to use this type of entrance, then you MUST have a way to drain the water. You can drill 1/2 inch holes in the bottom board and screen them with hardware cloth. Alternatively, just put the entrance flush with the bottom board and use a slight tilt forward to prevent water buildup. BTW, you can still use the entrance discs with the bottom entrance of your design.
I nail a couple of pressure-treated 1”X1” cleats on the bottom of mine. Keeps them off the ground & gives me more options for placement. For plywood covers (after I’ve constructed my boats, dune buggies, sky scrapers & such), I spray on the outside a coat of Flex-Seal. It’s supposedly food safe and seems to weather well.
I live in Florida and I am going to try that. The moisture here is hell on woodenware.
I use a router table to cut the frame rest
Great video. Is this nuc compatible with national hive frames? Or langstroth hive frames? Thanks
Thanks Luke! This is for Langstroth frames and not for national hives
Great video!
I completely agree and appreciate that you kept pounding home that sealing the wood is critical. I have done 2 things regarding that but don't have enough data to make a determination on how effective they are.
1. Any exposed grain, whether it be end grain on the exposed parts of dado cuts or the edges of plywood, I try to use a paint brush and apply Titebond III. Paint isn't thick enough and water repellent enough. I'm hoping that by doing so, it'll lengthen the life of the boxes. Obviously I still paint the boxes with regular latex paint, but that end grain is so much more porous than the rest of the wood, it makes it a failure point.
2. I started setting my circular/table saw at 45 degrees when I create my hand hold strips. I end up with parallel 45s on the top and bottom of each hand hold. There's a downside and an upside (I believe). The downside is that on the bottom you have a sharp edge if you don't sand it. The upside is that where the hand hold attaches to the box there's no place for water to collect.
Just thought I'd add those two points for anyone to consider...
What are you sealing with if you are a beginner... type of paint?
Latex primer with a latex exterior works very well and the clean up is easy
Just wondering what size top you put on these.... over hang? You never discussed...
I'm wondering the same.
Ive started cutting 10 frame deep boxes in half an making nucs, can cut bottom boards too
skooterbumm great idea to recycle ole boxes
Try connecting a bottom board then dividing. You can run two in one if you're clever.
Then you stack nuc boxes and if you have a good flow you can collect honey from the double-nuc. (Duplex)
If you use migratory type covers, you don't have to cut the fancy frame rests, you can just cut a handle piece and secure it across the top of the ends. It makes the build a tad easier and quicker. The ends have to be made shorter, they only need cut to length so the top of the board is the bottom of the frame rest. Then you have your frame rest and your extra HD handle incorporated without the mess of the two part frame rest cut. Use a HD lid because that 1/4 ply as a lid will warp and I don't care how well you seal it. Don't ask how I know, lol.
Well said Brent was trying to work out how to explain how to do it and read your comment and you nailed it.
@@sentimentalbloke7586 Well I forgot to mention you'd probably want to shorten the length of the box a bit as well or the frames will have more wiggle room than usual. I built several of these a few years ago and didn't realize until I had most of the frame rests cut that I could have saved a lot of trouble with the little change. As a side not, those boxes work fantastically, I still have those originals but the original lids did warp badly. Changed them out and they have bees in them now still to this day.
Brent, I build them the same way, using the handle across the top of the box instead of cutting a rabbet for a frame rest. The top of the end wall is the frame rest. I use 1/2" plywood so the dimensions come out easier.
@@Digger927 I used the dimensions that I got off this site and they worked well very little offcut from a full sheet of ply, I use mine to do splits, and for small swarms and they suit the job well.
What is a ''HD"" and thank you for your comment.
I have started building a few five frame nuc boxes myself as I want to start building bees instead of buying them. I'm also trying some boxes made from polystyrene as they have a better R-value when it comes to overwintering. I will be trying those next winter. Thanks for the build dimensions and as always thanks for sharing.
Thanks, I've been thinking about the most cost effective way to make about 30 nucs. At $4 a piece that fits the bill perfectly!
Great timing i'm getting ready to build several i want them for swarm traps for the most part i would like to see your lids close up thanks guys.
I just made my first one the other day! That is why I asked in last nights chat;
How long I should leave a small cutout in there before I move them to an 8 frame? WILL BE WAITING TO SEE ALL THE THINGS I CAN DO WITH IT!! keep up the great teamwork videos! It's just the down to earth instructions I need. :)
Paula, You want to be able to move 4 to 5 frames of bees to the 8 frame box.
PERFEKT!!! EXACTLY what I needed to see Kamon I plan to build myself a insulated horizontal full langstroth hive now in winter / spring, it will be insulated extra because we have so long & cold winters up here in the middle of Sweden! I am a pensioner with a weak economy so I have to build my box of junk and the same with the frames !!! Should also try to make a smoke can in copper but we will see how it goes ?? Need to buy protective hat & jacket, gloves unfortunately :( Also need qeen catch, mark pen and all other things because I start from scratch: D But it will be exciting to try to catch a community out in a nukebox TACK!!!
Since you covered nuc box building and stated these can be used for swarm traps, when should we start putting traps out? I live in central Mississippi and don’t want to miss that window of hives swarming, any advice would be appreciated,
Thanks for all the videos tips and advice,
Hi Kamon, can you seal the outside of hive boxes with fiberglass resin, to include the ply edges?
Looks like you are adding ~1- 1 1/8" to the standard langstroth deep super depth so, if one was using only mediums, that depth should be ~7 3/4" or so - that look about right to everyone?
I like having more space at the bottom for bees to cluster underneath the frames.
I like extra depth as well, that way if your useing frames out of other hives for splits an putting in a nuc youve got room for the cell , i use full width 1x12s , only down side is burr comb, you gotta scrape off before putting in a 10 frame
95/8
@@sheilamclaughlin963 yep yep I cut mine 93/4 just because.
AT 9" WIDE, HOW DO YOU STACK ON TOP OF A DEEP 16" WIDE?
MY THOUGHTS EXACTLY.
I repair my boxes by cutting out rooting or damaged sections and replacing them with new wood where possible. Most deeps that are beyond repair have enough good wood in the sides to cut down to Kamon's end dimensions and use them to make nuc boxes . A side benefit is the rescued ends have handholds.
It is a pleasure to listen to you. Everytime you talk, you have information AND the reasoning as to why.
What are your thoughts on using Eco Wood treatment on plywood?
Does not work well at all
Thanks!
I use 3/4" for the sides and a 2 layer stack of 3/8" plywood for the ends. This is so I don't have to cut the rabbits, the inside of the 3/8" plywood stack is sized to create the rabbits for the frame rest/sides.
I know of a wood mill around my area. They are giving away boat load of plywood daily. I'm sure to take advantage of it
Kaymon:
Do you put a vent in the back of he 5-frame nuc, also I use a solid screen in the bottom.
I am putting some vent in these colonies I will try to address that in the next video. During summer it is crucial
Good looking nuc boxes. Even I can build these.
Hey Kamon? Measure twice cut once? No wonder I have problems, I thought it was mean sure once, cut twice! Maybe you can help me with “buy high, sell low” as well. Stu
Kamon -- Great back-up hive for any occasion. As soon as the weather warms here in Michigan I'll be hacking the plywood! We love your INFORMATIVE channel.
Thanks Philip
Are you making those nuc boxes deep enough to handle a large queen cell hanging off a deep frame?
Hi Nancy yes I am. That is one thing I failed to mention in the video on why we make them deeper
Thanks Kamon and Laura! Great video! You said to paint all of the pieces before putting them together. What glue sticks to paint as well as to wood? My search says NOT Titebond III.
Do bees naturally show up in these?
Not building them for 4.00 this year that's for sure lol
Ha! Yeah would be lucky to build them for 10 bucks now
@@kamonreynolds for sure lol. I just placed a rather big order with a local Mennonite guy luckily he is still only asking 13.00 for deep hive bodies. Problem is he is so far backed up and I have 7 nucs I am fighting to keep space locust is blooming and they are just packing it in. Started the year with a single over wintered colony I am sitting at 11 total now and only bought 3 nucs. Fun year it is turning out to be.
Hey Kamon, I have seen a lot of nucs and most are made from 1/2" cheap plywood. They seem to work for what they are used for but I am old school and I always figure bigger is better. I prefer 3/4" wood like you but plywood is straighter and cheaper. I am starting out with 1/2" just because of the cost. What are your thoughts since you probably have seen both?
What size is the lid and what us the design ?
So far I made all my 10 frames boxes and Nuc's. I started with a skill saw, but now I use a used table saw that I bought at Goodwill for $10.
I use solid boards because plywood will warp as I found out after making a few Nuc's. I use screws for all of my boxes. Also I use screws for the lids to keep them on the hive for those few plywood lids that I made to keep them from warping. I use bottom entrance since the round side entrance like Kamon had caused me for some reason to have a lot of hive beetles.
I use those big handles for most of my hives, makes it easier and safer to carry those boxes.
I also use bottom board on all of our boxes, but on the Nuc's I screw them on. This way I can use the Nuc's for different things, like stacking them if I want to or adding entrance feeder which I have done if food is needed.
I also make and use feeder rings with vent holes to control overheating.
Why is it 10.5” tall? Aren’t deep hive bodies 9&5/8?
I prefer having extra cluster space below for ventilation and room for queen cells that are hanging off the bottom frames
@@kamonreynolds Thank you! I presume you wouldn’t want this space in stacked hive bodies.
So everyone go to the 40 second mark then listen to what Kamon says and watch what he does. So I'm surveying you all. Tell me which you believe to be true. 1. kamon had and itch and in influenced his words. 2. kamon mentions an itch and it gave him one. Play it a couple times and after you stop laughing comment on your choice, 1 or 2 and feel free to explain your answer. :-)
Could you make a video on how to do this with a 10-frame langstroth?
I built one out of plywood, with a bottom entrance. They hated the entrance and chewed several in the sides. 🤔
Thank you sir for your informative video. Looking forward to more videos.
What's the thickness of the plywood
3/4in and obviously lumber prices are way higher than what they use to be
@@kamonreynolds definitely, I can get a decent sheet for about $30
how about instead of slicing it down you glue two slim pieces of wood together with the second piece reduced by the depth of the frame handle, then drill the opening hole.
Thanks Kamon, do you have the plan for the lid too?
Nice simply dimentions.
What sort of lid or roof do you put on the nucs?
you measured total height not taking into account the thickness of the bottom board.
Nice video! I've made very similar boxes, but with 1/2" plywood. They worked great.
I made a few 2 frame nucs, but the rest will have 5 frames, I'll just use follower boards. I love my Mann Lake nucs, but I can build them so much cheaper.
what's the lid diameter,you didn't give those ? thanks good videos.
I love your videos. Thank you for your time producing them and education.
Why can't be made like any regular box strong and sturdy?
could you make a video on how a matting nut works and how to set one up. I'm wanting to grow my apiary?
Hey Evan we have one or two somewhere but we will be doing more soon
Great vid where’s the top, and what type frames fit the box please
Question hole is centered? got the 1 1/2 dia Thanks
Perfect!!!! Thanks!!!! Great info!!!!
Great video looking forward to your next one
April 2021....so not cheap to build lol.
oh boy did you count the bottom board on the height measurement.
Hi Kamon! Just wanted to say how much I enjoy your videos. I have learnt so much from you so I thank you for that! I attempted to make myself a 5 frame Nuc and I have to say it is just great! My local timber merchant cut the ply to the sizes you gave. I saved £15 (British pounds) and have the knowledge that I made it myself. Not bad for a 62 year old Grandmother!!! The quality ply is far better than what is used by the manufacturers. Going to buy myself a table saw so there’ll be not stopping me! Great work Kamon. Sally UK.
Sally I love your tenacity! I love beekeeping for many reasons. Wood working is something I enjoy too. Thanks for commenting and for being part of our bee world.
hi Kamon Love the five frame Nuc. Looking for more information on wax dripping and product selection can you Help thanks. Love your family Walter from Washington State
Sure thing might have dipping video next week
Good day Mr Reynolds. That's a really nice box I prefer bottom entrance instead of middle. I watch your Channel all the time you're very knowledgeable thank you keep it coming.
Hey gary I also think bottom is better but the bees will do well in a hole entrance and for some this may be easier to build. Thanks for watching and I hope you and your bees are doing well.
Thanks for the great video.. Can you comment on what dimensions I'd need for a 6 frame nuc?
I really don't know right off. I have never built one. Ian stepper uses a bunch though
Perfect. Just want I wanted to know.
Formaldehyde in the plywood???
Where are the design dimensions posted?
Why not put your hole at the bottom? Why the middle? Thanks
Just cause I can and I am going to see how good they do with it. I did it in the past and the bees did well so I thought I'd do it again. Maybe I can try a few on the bottom and compare
Handal placement great point..
Thanks for the video Kanin. It’s great you gave simple directions with dimensions.
Thanks Dwayne.
Thanks, Kamon. Do you have plans/measurements or a video for the TDNs?
I don't yet.
Would you recommend a 6 frame nuc and use a frame feeder?
Needs to be a fat 6 to fit a frame feeder and 5 frames with be space. That could work though!
With no bottom opening don't do bees have a harder time removing dead bees and trash?
They actually do very well with it
Why make the entrance so high?
Do you have an actual pattern for frames? I need an exact pattern for frames
I have made them but I find it cheaper to just buy them for the time invested. There are some patterns out there. Beesource.com has some I believe
Great and easy method Kamon! Just started to build our own boxes as well and gonna start building nucs as well, planning to use the rabbit joint as you talked a little about early in the video, last thing to do id sell the boxes, thanks for sharing and god bless!
Thank you 😊
Where are you located?
Right now I am making up 50 five frame nuc boxes for this year. You should show how to make a dcoats version for people without datoblades. Also mention the difference in height between the base unit and the second story boxes.
Yeah! If I just staple a board on as a bottom it violates bee space and eventually you crush a queen putting her into the box. I built one of them fancy nuc boxes you use as a toolbox or to carry bees around and I made that mistake.
You need little nuc bottom boards to do it right imo.
You don't need a dado to cut the frame rests. Just one cut 3/4 deep then another 3/8 deep to meet the 3/4.
I like your idea of a solid wood board for your handles. Suggestion. What about tapering the handle so that it is 3/4" wide at the bottom and say an 1/8" or even 1/16" at the top so it doesn't pond water when it rains. That way you can still have a flat surface to glue it on as well as screws. Also would it be better to screw it in from the inside so the screws are not exposed? Maybe I am trying to build a Cadillac instead of a bee box. Hahaha!
That handle would be sweet and if we were not trying to keep it simple for those with fewer tools we totally would have done a tapered handle.
@@kamonreynolds Is there a possible market for a tapered handle? I was thinking of using 5/4 x 6 decking, which is about 1-1/16" thick x 5 1/2" wide x 12' or even 16' long boards, pressure treated of course. It could be be ripped in three cuts. Ripe the board in half, then set the angle so that in two more angle rips you have 4 finished pieces 1-3/8" wide pieces with each having a taper. Then it is only a matter of cutting the pieces into a length based on what size hive you have, 3, 4 or 5 frame nuc, 8 frame box or 10 frame box or offer a custom length. Your thoughts?
The regular plywood is not a good material. Junk. Best material is used concret form plywood. Everlasting. Cheap.
Great video, Thanks' for sharing. I work mostly with nucs and make them exactly as you, no screened bottom board helps avoid hive beetles. On my boxes I make the entrance hole with the round plastic disc on the downside of the front and bees will clean out perfectly.
thanks
Not $4e anymore!
Great video!!!!
Another issue I found with plywood and NOT putting something on the inside, which you wouldn't have to with a solid box, is the ply sides warp when they get damp from bee humidity. Some warp out, some warp in and eliminate the outer frame surfaces. Time to make new ones.
I'm thinking about treating the plywood with Thompson's Water Sealer on all sides and ends. Thoughts?
Recently saw someone using hole entrances but added a PVC elbow (opening facing down) as a deterrent to SHB as the SHB “can’t hover”. Your thoughts?
They might help I haven't tried them. They would have to have extra ventilation somewhere and during honey production they need a bigger entrance. Maybe I can try one out some day
Kamon Reynolds - Tennessee's Bees I think I’m going to buy a package this spring (assuming that it’ll be SHB free - not sure that’s a reasonable assumption) and try it on that hive.
@@romoshka1 if you do let me know what you think!
Save your beesv
ECO WOOD TREATMENT instead of wax? Much easier to submerge the box.
Uh you didn't mention they are an awesome SWARM TRAP. Nuk Boxes are your friends.😁😁😁😁. Oh just an added edit. I still holes in my nuk and cover with screen but I am in Florida. But you can still holes about 8 or 9 mm right under you cover. That will allow the bees to travel through, added ventilation, and it is small enough they can glue it shut. Here in Florida high moisture plays hell on boxes. Plywood works. My front and back I use two layers. My frame landing is easy. There are plans for a jig to cut handles in a box.
Do you paint the entire inside of the nuc as well as the outside?
Never paint the inside of a bee box, only the parts exposed to the weather and the edges between the boxes to prevent rot. Also, my bees don't like painted entrance reducers. Chewed it all off.
Great video as always! A couple of comments mentioned rain in the entrance, @ashbyfarmsnc6653 had a good idea to put some pitch in the hole for the entrance to allow rain to drain out a bit. He mentioned up to 30 degrees.
If you don’t want to buy those round, multipurpose entrance discs, you can easily make them out of dog-food lids with ring-pulls (don’t gotta dog? Get one.). Drill a screw hole in the center. 180 degrees from the pull, cut out a one quarter (90 degree) triangle, not quite to the center hole. To one side, drill a bunch of small(1/16 - 1/8”) holes. Other side, cut a 3/8” square. So, you have available options of large entrance, small robber/mouse guard entrance, and closed, vented entrance, with a ring pull to grasp and turn. The hole in the wood needs to be just slightly less in diameter than half the lid diameter, so you’d likely need a second, screened opening elsewhere. I build mine with a 3/4 x 3 1/2 opening at the back, to snugly fit a Boardman feeder, so a little strip of #8 hardware screen can be tacked over that if a vent is needed.
Awesome
Kamon. Is your cdx plywood pressure treated? I could only find cdx plywood that was pressure treated so I just used regular 3/4 inch plywood. I appreciate that you gave us all the dimensions for the nuc. Built 4 of them today. They came out great. And I’m no wood worker.