I haven't ever had more than 20 hives and I have never had a telescoping top cover made with anything but 1/4" plywood painted. The odd top cover has been chewed on by a black bear, but they have stood up to the Canadian prairie weather very nicely without metal or plastic covering. Some of these covers I did repaint once though in the last 22 years.
Must be pretty dry there..Here in the deep south where humidity is 100% from early June until mid-November...un-protected plywood, even painted plywood wont last long :(
i find the size of my covers can vary enough to make the metal hard to fit. So, i use the cover the metal goes onto as the guide. I don't have any marking to do, just center the cover over the metal, hold 1 long side metal and lid together and lift. this bends a side at a time. Do the same for the other long edge. I also flatten out the corners before bending both the short edges. I do the corners the same way for making the 45 degree angles, but I use the lid to tap everything down before stapling the metal to the lid.
For someone without good wood working skills, or some of the tools we have which ensure repeat-ability your option may work best. I say whatever works best for you is always going to be the best option.
Cut a 1" tab on all four corners and fold the tab side first. Fold the tabs in the fold the short side. Screw the flashing to the top through the folded corners and in the centers. Viola.
This creates a break in the metal top, where you cut the seem for water to wick into. I prefer the no cut method to maintain the structural integrity and therefore the waterproof aspect of the metal top.
if that method were waterproof they wouldn't put Tyvek on homes prior to vinyl siding :P Some water wicks in, then hits tyvek and drains to the ground instead of into your sheathing.
As Steve happe said, best job I've seen on a cover, great job and good clear instructional video, true trades man
Thank you Mr. Darcy!
Best bending job for any top cover for anything I have ever seen done without a brake. Well done sir.
Thank you Steve! I have the brake but in my videos i try to use as basic a tool set as possible so viewers can get the job done!
Good job posting this. I appreciate your work and time. Thanks
You are welcome Sir!
Thanks for posting this. Just getting back into beekeeping. Trying to get some hives ready to get some packages come spring
You are welcome Chris!
Nice... thank you sir
Welcome
I haven't ever had more than 20 hives and I have never had a telescoping top cover made with anything but 1/4" plywood painted. The odd top cover has been chewed on by a black bear, but they have stood up to the Canadian prairie weather very nicely without metal or plastic covering. Some of these covers I did repaint once though in the last 22 years.
Must be pretty dry there..Here in the deep south where humidity is 100% from early June until mid-November...un-protected plywood, even painted plywood wont last long :(
i find the size of my covers can vary enough to make the metal hard to fit. So, i use the cover the metal goes onto as the guide. I don't have any marking to do, just center the cover over the metal, hold 1 long side metal and lid together and lift. this bends a side at a time. Do the same for the other long edge. I also flatten out the corners before bending both the short edges. I do the corners the same way for making the 45 degree angles, but I use the lid to tap everything down before stapling the metal to the lid.
For someone without good wood working skills, or some of the tools we have which ensure repeat-ability your option may work best. I say whatever works best for you is always going to be the best option.
That was GREAT! Thank -you
You are welcome Char!
Just what I was looking for thanks
You are welcome CK!
Well done very helpful im just starting to build my hives thanks bud godbless
You are welcome Paul!
Very nice, Thank you!
you are most welcome Benjamin
Very educational....great job
Thank you Mr. Pryor!
Thank you. This is great help!
You are welcome Mr. Pinder
Well, duh, after watching you do it anyway. Couldn't figure it out on my own. Many thanks!
Haha, well I'm glad you got it worked out sir!
Awesome thanks for sharing
You are welcome Ronnie and thanks for watching!
this was great thanks
Thanks Francis!
where can i get 24" wide flashing. I can only find 10" at local box stores.
We sell it, give us a call toll free at 833-FUN-E-BUG to place an order.
Do you have a link to the flashing you used?
Yes sir, I added it to the video description for you, free shipping on it as well.
@@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks Thank you very much. Have a great day.
What is the thickness for the aluminum Flashing and is this pvc coated?
its standard PVC coated "Trim Coil". thickness of the product we use is about 1/32"
thanks
You are welcome Lonnie, glad to have helped!
lonnie perry good job thank
your welcome Lonnie!
Cut a 1" tab on all four corners and fold the tab side first. Fold the tabs in the fold the short side. Screw the flashing to the top through the folded corners and in the centers. Viola.
This creates a break in the metal top, where you cut the seem for water to wick into. I prefer the no cut method to maintain the structural integrity and therefore the waterproof aspect of the metal top.
By folding the tab under it creates a weatherproof seal. Just like doing the corners using vinyl siding around windows corners.
if that method were waterproof they wouldn't put Tyvek on homes prior to vinyl siding :P Some water wicks in, then hits tyvek and drains to the ground instead of into your sheathing.