I have been searching for videos on making Nuc boxs for a week now and this is by far the best instructional video I've ever seen I just want to say thanks
Really nice video of the simple 5 frame nuc from 1 sheet of plywood. Will be building these in the next few weeks, and got some great tips from you. Thank you!
Thanks for this video. I immediately built four boxes to use for swarm catching. I did find that making the cleats for the top cover at 1" instead of 3/4" provided less play and a more snug fit. Also, I cut everything using a circular saw so it was a little easier cutting them to 1" width. For day to day use in the bee yard, I agree that 3/4" plywood would be a better long term investment, but for swarms and selling, you can't beat the cost of these!
Nice job. I use 3/4 plywood. Have to add a half inch to the bottoms ends and tops. On one end i cut off 3/4 of a inch for the opening so u can use a OA vaporizer. Thank for sharing. When i say i add a half inch i mean i make them wider.
i use an OA vaporizer on my larger hives. For my nucs with these hole cut rather than the 3/4" opening you speak of i use a propane powered fogger. It has a small nozzle and I can put the nozzle right in the opening and give it three puffs and im done.
Is that a 3 ply plywood you use aom just using a piece of plywood for lids and looks good I take little xtra time and make telescoping lids with 1/2 in plywood nailed down to 11/2 in pine frame to reduce warping .
no its 4-ply BC Sanded grade playwood. Runs about $22-24 per sheet. I actually have found out there is enough cut off if you keep tolerances tight to get telescoping lids out of the same sheet!
Very nicely presented! Thank you. Have you had much success using these as swarm traps? If I used them as a 5 frame Nuc, I think I'd want to be able to place the quart jar, Boardman feeder on them, so I might do a bit of adjusting to be able to do that.
Yes, they make excellent swarm traps. To convert them, take a cheap 18" piece of 2x4 and bolt it from the inside of the NUC to the outside, then drill a 1" hole 2" from the top of that 2x4 then use that vertical piece of 2x4 to hang it on a nail in a tree 10 feet off the ground and with several sprays of a product I use called "Swarm Commander" inside it and hang them all over the place. I catch probably 6 swarms each year for very minimal effort. If you need swarm comander, which I swear by you can find it here: www.funnybugbees.com/queens-bees-swarms/swarms/swarm-lures/
Glad I found your videos. No nonsense, this is what I do. Finishing up frames while watching. Have you had thoughts on durability of plywood versus pine? Thanks
Yes, they are 9" wide 5 frame nucs. So 1/4" narrower than a standard langstroth NUC, but the same inside dimensions. The outside dimension is different due to different thickness of stock.
Mate can you please tell me the full size of your ply wood sheet that you start with. I need to convert your measurements to millimeteres to see if Australian sheets are the same size.
ya i had miss-measured and cut one of the front panels..this happens to be the one i grabbed. No one is perfect, measure twice, cut once right? I am after all only human :P
yes. all measurements are what the final piece of wood should come out as. the "kerf" (thickness of the blade" is accounted for in the cut list I have.
well it doesnt matter what size stock you use, just always remember the inside dimensions and you can do anything. The inside dimensions are the same as a standard 5-frame NUC, so 7.5" x 18 3/8" (below the cleat i.e. wall-wall) or 19 1/8 from inside cleat to inside cleat (the frame rest)......Let me get a pencil here and write it down and ill post the dimensions for you in a few minutes after verifying them. ok here goes, editing comment, verified dimensions... Bottom: 20" x 9" Sides: 19 1/8" x 10 1/4" top: 22" x 9 1/2" Fronts/Backs: 7 1/2" x 9 1/2" Large cleats: 9" x 2" small cleats: 9" x 3/4" Hope that helps Dadu...
I like this project. But i do have a question; Would it be good do use a smaller mesh for the vent holes? #8 is small enough for small hive beetles to get through. That's what is commonly used to make shb traps.
this is incorrect. #8 mesh has an average aperture size of 0.0350 inches or 2.2mm which is smaller than an adult hive beetle which are 3.2 mm across the carapace. The correct wire cloth to use for hive beetle traps is #6-041 which has an average aperture size of 3.2mm. Sure some hive beetles will still be able to be trapped using #8 (but very few), #6-041 is far more effective as it is the exact size of a small hive beetle...you can see and order this product here: www.funnybugbees.com/the-bee-shop/beekeeping-supplies/hardware
true, but this is why we run Freeman style small hive beetle traps on all our hives...they walk in...and immediately are drowned, and we lose no bees. The ones that dont walk right in are wrangled by guard bees and driven down into the same trap. You can look in my videos I have two videos on this, one on how to build them and one on checking a newly installed trap after 24 hours.
The distance from the bottom of the top bar of the frame, to the bottom of the frame bottom bar is 8 5/8". The fronts/rears of the NUC are 9 1/2" high. This means from the floor of the NUC to the bottom of the frame is 7/8".
no, any time you alter the thickness of your stock in any project, its going to alter your dimensions. For instance, you would need yo make the top and bottoms of this design 1/2" wider to compensate for the material thickness, but you would also need other modifications to the design as well. these are easy to figure out you just need to sit down with paper and run it through your brain before starting. Any dimensions which would be caused to change should be compensated.
Thanks for the video,am going to go with this design. Have a swarm of bees that have moved into my boat hull.{see bee hive boat,yt] Im going to need some affordable boxes. Yours will do fine. Obviously you know what your doing so if you would check it out and get up with me. Im basic a greenhorn at this and dont want to run them off.Thanks again !
Im glad you found the video useful. Ill try to take a look at the video. If you have any questions though, feel free to use the contact us form on our website at www.funnybugbees.com and ill make sure to reply.
Normal plywood isn't very good for this use, the boxes tend to warp even when well painted. They are okay for traps and quiet boxes but not very good for regular use. Advantech sheeting works much much better. Of course the measurements have to be altered a bit because advantech is 3/4" thick rather than 1/2". I just cut them like a normal nuc and cut out the frame rests like normal lumber, table saw or a router will either one rabbit out a nice 3/8 x 5/8 frame rest. I didn't watch all this vid but I assume these are the cheap nucs from 1/2" plywood like I built earlier this season with end box frame rests as opposed to normal rabbit style rests.
this would defeat the purp[ose of the video, specifically how to build "commercial grade" NUCS. If you are building a small number of nucs for personal use, then, by all means, use another material. I use 3/4 white pine for our non-commercial grade NUCS for our customers.
Yes, I hold fast to my statement. "commercial grade" means good for a season, not for prolonged use. The folks interested in commercials grade nucs are looking for cheap but effective NUCS they can use for a season or two. If you are selling nucs, you typically make them up the spring you do the queen grafting in, and therefore sell them the year they are constructed, and they get transferred to standard hive boxes by the end user shortly after. Making them out of plywood provides a cost effective method of moving the product you are really selling (queens) to the end user without spending an arm and a leg on the housing for afore mentioned queen.
If you say so. Personally, if I'm going to have to take time and effort to build my own woodenware, I'm going to use more reliable material. If I want something cheap for a season's use or transfer sale of nucs, I'll use cardboard or PVC. My time is worth way too much, I can't build even the 1/4 ply boxes as cheaply as the cardboard or PVC boxes.
I've checked prices on cardboard NUC boxes and they average $8. If you make four of these from one sheet of ply they cost $5 each, or a savings of $12 for four of them vs the cardboard ones, and they also will last longer, can be used as swarm traps for a couple of seasons, etc. The time and effort are negligible as it takes me literally 1 hour to make four of these. Of course, your mileage will vary, and you must do whats best for you. Then again if this video isn't for you then I understand.
Hello, sir. This video is great well explained and I thank you for this. But I have one question and please don't be offended. Does not glue contain Formaldehyde which is bad for the bees? Also, I think you should carry in all the videos you make. #2A
Titebond III which is what i recommend is non-toxic and contains no formaldehyde. You can download the material safety data sheet (MSDS) for it here: www.highlandwoodworking.com/msds/165063-TitebondIII-16oz.pdf
I imagine you send the five frame nukes unassembled. I'd like to get 5 Newk's made from thick marine plywood.?. Is that possible unassembled and how much$$$
How do they hold up? A year ? Two years ? I'm just looking for a cost effective swarm box. I want to catch the bees in the box and keep them in that box for at least 5 months. Would they be able to complete this task ?
they are made to hold up a season or two with just the first coat of paint. This will vary depending on your humidity level etc. I use them as swarm traps and to sell NUCS in. I live in the south and we have 100% humidity for about half the year, they hold up fine for me. Besides at the price point, they dont need to hold up for too long to get your bang out of it for any bucks you put in ;)
Funny Bug Bees and Wood Works I'm down around Houston humidity was my concern also. I think it's a great video and price for the build. Thank you so much for your videos.
if humidity is the concern and you want them to really last for several years, then just paint the outside, then dip the whole thing in wax (parafin or bees) and they will last literally many years.
Yes Brian, you caught uis right in the middle of redoing the website with a new shopping cart system. I updated the link in that video last night, it should work now. Best Regards!
the final cut off from the end of the plywood is about 8 inches wide, so yes there is plenty to make the "bottom" strip as wide as you need. Though standard NUCS are 9" and some people make them 9 1/4" but either way there is plenty of room. Though why you would want to make them wide and mess up bee space is beyond me, unless of course you are talking about making them like 6 frame size or something.
Great idea with the recessed frame rests!
Thanks so much!
I have been searching for videos on making Nuc boxs for a week now and this is by far the best instructional video I've ever seen I just want to say thanks
Thanks Randy, i appreciate it!
Really nice video of the simple 5 frame nuc from 1 sheet of plywood. Will be building these in the next few weeks, and got some great tips from you. Thank you!
Hey man thanks! Let me know how it goes and if you run into trouble just ask.
Good tip to start with a square off of one of the sides!
Just finished cutting out enough material to do 8 of these. Can’t wait to put them together.
Awesome Stephen! How did the build go?
Thanks for this video. I immediately built four boxes to use for swarm catching. I did find that making the cleats for the top cover at 1" instead of 3/4" provided less play and a more snug fit. Also, I cut everything using a circular saw so it was a little easier cutting them to 1" width. For day to day use in the bee yard, I agree that 3/4" plywood would be a better long term investment, but for swarms and selling, you can't beat the cost of these!
exactly..though if you dip these in parafin wax, they will literally last for years and years...
@@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks any risk of the ply delaminating at those temps?
Not sure what temp is safe with WBP ply (exterior grade)
Very professional, very well presented and explained. Thanks!
Thanks Dan!
That's a very nice design! Thank you for sharing!
your welcome Andrew
Nice job. I use 3/4 plywood. Have to add a half inch to the bottoms ends and tops. On one end i cut off 3/4 of a inch for the opening so u can use a OA vaporizer. Thank for sharing. When i say i add a half inch i mean i make them wider.
i use an OA vaporizer on my larger hives. For my nucs with these hole cut rather than the 3/4" opening you speak of i use a propane powered fogger. It has a small nozzle and I can put the nozzle right in the opening and give it three puffs and im done.
I lovvveeeddd this video! Thank you so very much!
So glad!
Thanks for this video brother.
Thanks Dadu!
21:28 lol. I have done it a few times my self :D enjoyed the vid
Great video, thanx.
Thanks Shamanic!
Is that a 3 ply plywood you use aom just using a piece of plywood for lids and looks good I take little xtra time and make telescoping lids with 1/2 in plywood nailed down to 11/2 in pine frame to reduce warping .
no its 4-ply BC Sanded grade playwood. Runs about $22-24 per sheet. I actually have found out there is enough cut off if you keep tolerances tight to get telescoping lids out of the same sheet!
Fast and easy. Thanks
Welcome 😊
if it summer make the entrance bigger great video
Thanks very informative, will be building some of these, pro second also.
Murika! :)
Very nicely presented! Thank you. Have you had much success using these as swarm traps? If I used them as a 5 frame Nuc, I think I'd want to be able to place the quart jar, Boardman feeder on them, so I might do a bit of adjusting to be able to do that.
Yes, they make excellent swarm traps. To convert them, take a cheap 18" piece of 2x4 and bolt it from the inside of the NUC to the outside, then drill a 1" hole 2" from the top of that 2x4 then use that vertical piece of 2x4 to hang it on a nail in a tree 10 feet off the ground and with several sprays of a product I use called "Swarm Commander" inside it and hang them all over the place. I catch probably 6 swarms each year for very minimal effort. If you need swarm comander, which I swear by you can find it here: www.funnybugbees.com/queens-bees-swarms/swarms/swarm-lures/
Picture of the swarm trap maybe?
I just made 4 NUCs from your tutorial. Do you mean put the 2×4 on the back of the NUC? Bottoms flush? Or tops?
Amazing video! Clear and concise I loved it. One question. What was the thickness of the ply? Was is 3/4 or 1/2 inch?
The plans call for 1/2" ply
Nice project !!!! Very usefull !!!!
Thanks Daniel, we appreciate it!
Good job, Thankyou
thanks jerry
Awesome! Thanks
You are welcome!
Glad I found your videos. No nonsense, this is what I do. Finishing up frames while watching. Have you had thoughts on durability of plywood versus pine?
Thanks
well the plywood is what makes it a "commercially viable NUC". When every dollar of profit counts when selling NUCS this is the way to go.
Understood
3-8 years which works out about $1 per Nuc per year. Cost wise, better value than pine. My pine last 8-12 years and cost $20+
I like it. Does it hold 5 frames? Thanks for the directions.
Yes, they are 9" wide 5 frame nucs. So 1/4" narrower than a standard langstroth NUC, but the same inside dimensions. The outside dimension is different due to different thickness of stock.
Thanks ...Very Nice!
Our pleasure!
Can you confirm which size of frames to use with this design, so we don't get screwed up on those of us who haven't been doing this as long?
its takes standard 9 1/8" deep Langstroth style frames.
Mate can you please tell me the full size of your ply wood sheet that you start with. I need to convert your measurements to millimeteres to see if Australian sheets are the same size.
here they are 4' x 8' which is 48" x 96" which is 1219.2mm x 2438.4mm (i think :) )
@21:28 lol... good cover up. *wink*
ya i had miss-measured and cut one of the front panels..this happens to be the one i grabbed. No one is perfect, measure twice, cut once right? I am after all only human :P
Amen, brother! I just got a chuckle out of the look on your face. Excellent video, keep them coming!
great video. on your measurements do you account for the 1/8th saw blade?
yes. all measurements are what the final piece of wood should come out as. the "kerf" (thickness of the blade" is accounted for in the cut list I have.
I have to say damn great video!
Greg, Thanks a ton man.
Enough wood in the scrap pile to make a telescoping hive cover?
yes, its actually an option on the ones we sell. We use a 1" strip of the plywood around the lid.
Hi great video, What frames will fit in these nuc boxes?
they take standard langstroth deep frames.
This was worth a sub
Are these 4 or 5 frame nucs?
they are 9" wide 5 frame nucs...thanks for the sub!!
Amazing!
Thanks Steve.
You are super and best
Thanks!
Hey bud I built 4 of these and I love em. What would dimensions be with 3/4” plywood? Thanks a lot.
well it doesnt matter what size stock you use, just always remember the inside dimensions and you can do anything. The inside dimensions are the same as a standard 5-frame NUC, so 7.5" x 18 3/8" (below the cleat i.e. wall-wall) or 19 1/8 from inside cleat to inside cleat (the frame rest)......Let me get a pencil here and write it down and ill post the dimensions for you in a few minutes after verifying them.
ok here goes, editing comment, verified dimensions...
Bottom: 20" x 9"
Sides: 19 1/8" x 10 1/4"
top: 22" x 9 1/2"
Fronts/Backs: 7 1/2" x 9 1/2"
Large cleats: 9" x 2"
small cleats: 9" x 3/4"
Hope that helps Dadu...
thanks a lot
I like this project. But i do have a question; Would it be good do use a smaller mesh for the vent holes? #8 is small enough for small hive beetles to get through. That's what is commonly used to make shb traps.
this is incorrect. #8 mesh has an average aperture size of 0.0350 inches or 2.2mm which is smaller than an adult hive beetle which are 3.2 mm across the carapace. The correct wire cloth to use for hive beetle traps is #6-041 which has an average aperture size of 3.2mm. Sure some hive beetles will still be able to be trapped using #8 (but very few), #6-041 is far more effective as it is the exact size of a small hive beetle...you can see and order this product here: www.funnybugbees.com/the-bee-shop/beekeeping-supplies/hardware
Doesn't really matter about the mesh size. The beetles can walk right in the front door.
true, but this is why we run Freeman style small hive beetle traps on all our hives...they walk in...and immediately are drowned, and we lose no bees. The ones that dont walk right in are wrangled by guard bees and driven down into the same trap. You can look in my videos I have two videos on this, one on how to build them and one on checking a newly installed trap after 24 hours.
I downloaded the plans. Tyvm for the video and the plans.
+1 like +1 Subscriber ;)
You are welcome Alice!
:)
are these deep enough to not squash queen cells on the bottom frames
The distance from the bottom of the top bar of the frame, to the bottom of the frame bottom bar is 8 5/8". The fronts/rears of the NUC are 9 1/2" high. This means from the floor of the NUC to the bottom of the frame is 7/8".
Will these measurements work on 3/4. Plywood
no, any time you alter the thickness of your stock in any project, its going to alter your dimensions. For instance, you would need yo make the top and bottoms of this design 1/2" wider to compensate for the material thickness, but you would also need other modifications to the design as well. these are easy to figure out you just need to sit down with paper and run it through your brain before starting. Any dimensions which would be caused to change should be compensated.
Thanks for the video,am going to go with this design. Have a swarm of bees that have moved into my boat hull.{see bee hive boat,yt] Im going to need some affordable boxes. Yours will do fine. Obviously you know what your doing so if you would check it out and get up with me. Im basic a greenhorn at this and dont want to run them off.Thanks again !
Im glad you found the video useful. Ill try to take a look at the video. If you have any questions though, feel free to use the contact us form on our website at www.funnybugbees.com and ill make sure to reply.
They make 5/8 brads
Normal plywood isn't very good for this use, the boxes tend to warp even when well painted. They are okay for traps and quiet boxes but not very good for regular use. Advantech sheeting works much much better. Of course the measurements have to be altered a bit because advantech is 3/4" thick rather than 1/2". I just cut them like a normal nuc and cut out the frame rests like normal lumber, table saw or a router will either one rabbit out a nice 3/8 x 5/8 frame rest.
I didn't watch all this vid but I assume these are the cheap nucs from 1/2" plywood like I built earlier this season with end box frame rests as opposed to normal rabbit style rests.
this would defeat the purp[ose of the video, specifically how to build "commercial grade" NUCS. If you are building a small number of nucs for personal use, then, by all means, use another material. I use 3/4 white pine for our non-commercial grade NUCS for our customers.
Ok, if you say so.
Yes, I hold fast to my statement. "commercial grade" means good for a season, not for prolonged use. The folks interested in commercials grade nucs are looking for cheap but effective NUCS they can use for a season or two. If you are selling nucs, you typically make them up the spring you do the queen grafting in, and therefore sell them the year they are constructed, and they get transferred to standard hive boxes by the end user shortly after. Making them out of plywood provides a cost effective method of moving the product you are really selling (queens) to the end user without spending an arm and a leg on the housing for afore mentioned queen.
If you say so. Personally, if I'm going to have to take time and effort to build my own woodenware, I'm going to use more reliable material. If I want something cheap for a season's use or transfer sale of nucs, I'll use cardboard or PVC. My time is worth way too much, I can't build even the 1/4 ply boxes as cheaply as the cardboard or PVC boxes.
I've checked prices on cardboard NUC boxes and they average $8. If you make four of these from one sheet of ply they cost $5 each, or a savings of $12 for four of them vs the cardboard ones, and they also will last longer, can be used as swarm traps for a couple of seasons, etc. The time and effort are negligible as it takes me literally 1 hour to make four of these. Of course, your mileage will vary, and you must do whats best for you. Then again if this video isn't for you then I understand.
Why didn't you use 3/4" plywood so its standard? A lot more rigid too. How have they held up in weather? Thanks
because 3/4" plywood is $34 a sheet and 15/32" is $17.00 :) and these are made to be inexpensive.
And lighter. I just wonder if they warp in time.
Go 2nd amendment.. Thumbs up and subbed... Great job.
Thanks Houston!
Hello, sir. This video is great well explained and I thank you for this. But I have one question and please don't be offended. Does not glue contain Formaldehyde which is bad for the bees? Also, I think you should carry in all the videos you make. #2A
Titebond III which is what i recommend is non-toxic and contains no formaldehyde. You can download the material safety data sheet (MSDS) for it here: www.highlandwoodworking.com/msds/165063-TitebondIII-16oz.pdf
I imagine you send the five frame nukes unassembled. I'd like to get 5 Newk's made from thick marine plywood.?. Is that possible unassembled and how much$$$
we can do custom nuc boxes, call us toll free at 833-FUN-E-BUG
lol thats a good one
Hey peewee, what is a good one?
How do they hold up? A year ? Two years ? I'm just looking for a cost effective swarm box. I want to catch the bees in the box and keep them in that box for at least 5 months.
Would they be able to complete this task ?
they are made to hold up a season or two with just the first coat of paint. This will vary depending on your humidity level etc. I use them as swarm traps and to sell NUCS in. I live in the south and we have 100% humidity for about half the year, they hold up fine for me. Besides at the price point, they dont need to hold up for too long to get your bang out of it for any bucks you put in ;)
Funny Bug Bees and Wood Works
I'm down around Houston humidity was my concern also. I think it's a great video and price for the build.
Thank you so much for your videos.
if humidity is the concern and you want them to really last for several years, then just paint the outside, then dip the whole thing in wax (parafin or bees) and they will last literally many years.
Funny Bug Bees and Wood Works
Thank you so much for your videos. What a great idea dipping them in wax. Do you have a video showing this process yet?
Sure thing clayton, anytime! And thanks for watching!
are plans available anywhere? link doesn't work anymore
Yes Brian, you caught uis right in the middle of redoing the website with a new shopping cart system. I updated the link in that video last night, it should work now. Best Regards!
Is there enough scrap to make them a little wider
the final cut off from the end of the plywood is about 8 inches wide, so yes there is plenty to make the "bottom" strip as wide as you need. Though standard NUCS are 9" and some people make them 9 1/4" but either way there is plenty of room. Though why you would want to make them wide and mess up bee space is beyond me, unless of course you are talking about making them like 6 frame size or something.
what are the internal box dimensions ,
8.5" W x 9 5/8" H x 19 1/8" frame rest to frame rest. Fits standard langstroth deep frames.
Do you sell these?
yes you can see them on our website here: www.funnybugbees.com/complete-hive-kits/5-frame-nuc-kits/
is that a hot glue gun by your side :)
:)
Must be a very dangerous area that you live in! Having to wear a gun in your wood shop.
I wear my personal defense sidearm everywhere, not just in my shop.