Simply -The BEST WAY- to install outlets in a finished pole barn! Surface Mount Simplicity.
Вставка
- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
- A great method to install outlets in a pole barn shed with metal siding finished interior walls! Surface mount boxes, non metallic cable, and surface mount covers.
I'll show you how to:
Rough in the wires inside the wall in the correct place
Position the boxes on the wall and fasten
Jumper wire double-duplex outlets
Make-up the outlets in a clean and tidy fashion
Install the surface mount covers without 3 hands
Find my FAVORITE 20 Amp Spec grade $1.98 outlet! Back wire!
I'd hire this guy in a heartbeat. Knowledgeable, professional and thorough.
This was by far the best video for wiring outlets in a pole barn or anywhere else for that matter. I'm in the process of finishing my pole barn now and I've watched this a dozen times. All of my outlets came out perfect and the inspector even commented on their neatness. You are an excellent instructor sir!
I was fortunate to find your video before starting on the inside of my new shop. Now that I've seen this and done it, I couldn't imagine doing it any other way - GAME CHANGING! Thank you for sharing your expertise and instruction.
Glad I could help!
U can tell this dude is sharp.. great work, he makes many great points and is thorough. I’d make all my apprentices watch this
Great video! Thanks for the clear step-by-step instruction. I'm a machine electrician, but have had little to no residential/commercial experience. I'll be tackling the electrical in my pole barn next Spring, so I will be referring back to this. Thanks again, and may the Lord bless you.
Nice video. Appreciate your demonstration of a thorough and professional approach.
Nice video, well done. Try using a #1 Robertson drive (square) instead of flat blade screwdriver for receptacle screws. I prefer making each receptacle independent by using wirenuts and pigtails and I think pretwisting makes a better connection. That wire on the receptacle is for self grounding as long as the box is grounded. Leviton spec grade receptacles have a spring loaded brass contact on the lower yoke for this purpose.
I prefer 15 amp spec grade duplex receptacles for all 15 and 20 amp 120v circuits, they're equivalent in quality.
Great job explaining everything and not overcomplicating with trade jargon.
Great info, great delivery, great style.
I like the pass through green wire nut.
That's genius, makes for a clean application.
I found this to be a very useful video. Thanks for all the good tips!
Great video. You covered every little detail so well.
Great video, thanks! I'm doing the same thing, however since I also have these beautiful painted interior liner panels, why make it ugly with a standard 4x4 box that will also corrode and turn uglier over time? I used grey painted (powder coated?) outdoor 2 gang boxes, with grey outlets and grey plastic covers for a more finished look. I'm also using MC cable to run behind the panels instead of Romex for better protection.
I like the way you do these interior recepts. I'd be interested in your way of doing exterior recepts on a pole barn as well. I have to get a bunch on a 100 ft wall and lookin for some ideas, but up to or surpass NEC.
Awesome video! Covered all the good details.
Maybe it's overkill but I much prefer to have another box positioned directly behind the wall and a chase nipple connecting them together and nuts and bolts mating the mounting holes. 0 chance of wire rubbing sharp metal, easy double sided access, and most importantly a clean way and easy way to terminate my EMT connection on the inside. I'm a DIYer but I took the time to do everything in EMT for my building as I find exposed romex or mc cable to look sloppy and cheap. I suppose if your romex is covered by insulation it's fine and with the plastic snap in I doubt the wire will ever rub so this is a decent install.
Thanks for the refresher course with all the good stuff. Was thinking about the screwdriver into the hand accident, most definitely don’t stray off when tightening up those screws..10 lbs of shlt in a 5 lb bag I just heard you say. I’m watching the right Electrican on UA-cam.,! Again,thank you for your help with showing us your trade little secrets.
Thank you for the tremendous amount of info!
Excellent work!!!
Great video. My inspector wants the ground up on non residential work.
Based on what code is he requiring ground prong up? It’s not NEC!
The pigtail is not so you get a better connection down the line, The reason for it is if you have a bad outlet, pulled connection, etc anything wrong with the one outlet you don't lose every outlet down the line.
Great video and thanks for taking time to share your expertise.
Some great ideas sir. Thanks! Nice work.
Spec grade are awesome. I went with tamper resistant… they seem to grip the plug a little tighter.
Thanks for sharing! 👍
Amazing! Thanks man... this will help this week when I work on mine.
Great information! Thanks for sharing!
I'm still watching. With first little bit, the audio has a big echo. I'll keep watching, just thought I bring it up.
great detail. thanks for sharing
Fantastic video.
I’d like more information on the bushing that you use.
He could sniff out any Electrical problem.
Great video, I like all of your ideas and I think I'll use this when I wire my pole barn. I have one question that you didn't cover, what size diameter hole are you drilling through the metal wall? I'm guessing 1". Thanks
Yes 1” would be fine. because I am using a plastic NM bushing in the back knockout, I drill a hole just large enough for the back lip of the bushing to drop into the hole in the sheet.
I wasn't aware you could use a non sealed box on the outside of a building.
This is the inside.
This is inside the building. We finished the inside with liner panel, so it looks very similar to the outside of the barn.
Isn't wrapping tape around exposed screws of the outlets supposed to prevent accidental contact. I see many, even pros, not doing it. Is there a reason for not doing it? Thank you for a very detailed video. Can see your passion has become your profession...cheers,
Totally not required.
Great video bro. Thanks for sharing.
What size hole did you drill and with what? Hole saw??
Everyone does it differently, I've seen most use tape on the back of the receptacles when used inside metal boxes.
Where’s the bushing/black button for going through the metal panel?? IMO, conduit is better, but not easy for non-electricians/Romex jockeys.
Awesome methods! Great video and very helpful. Would you use this same method for electrical boxes for lighting on a ceiling with the same liner type material?
Nice video
What's the weather like during this video, How cold is it?
I have a metal shed and I need to run electrical wire from my house to the shed. The wire is going to be buried, but I am unsure if I should bring the wire through the plywood floor or drill a 1/2 hole on the metal siding and use an LB...any ideas?
Great application and video, but doesn't NEC require a cable staple within 8 inches of a box, or 12 inches if held by a clamp at the box? Since knockout bushings are not clamps, doesn't the loose cable behind the sheet steel (to orient your holes) go against this rule? Not an electrician but just asking. Thanks.
The wire is stapled to the wall girt, but there is enough flexibility in the wire to move the wire left or right as you are installing your steel sheets to get the wire hole to line up with the panel layout. So it’s the best combination.
Great video. Good little tidbits of info. I do have a question for you. What model impact drill did you use. Looked smaller than most. Thanks.
Enjoyed the video. How did you secure your Romex runs? Did you fasten them to the girts after you installed the insulation or did you run your wires before the insulation and girts were installed. Thanks.
I pre-wired after girts, but before spray insulation. Then we did a netted dense-pack cellulose to fill the cavity. So the wiring looked like this just after insulation and before interior liner panels went on: about 16" of the Romex wire sticking straight out towards the inside as you see in the video. One thing I should clarify: this barn does not use a traditional 2x4 girt on the inside of the wall, it has 2x6 "bookshelf" girts horizontally. So they are in place before insulation, which is a little different than most post frame structures. But you can do this method with either style girt.
Great video thank you .. Any tips on setting up temp outlets if your not going to finish the interior for a year or so ?
Clemmer, If you leave your wire long, you can use a plastic or metal box mounted to the face of your framing. When you are ready to sheet the interior, you will still have plenty of wire to make it up again and pull it through the new sheeting.
It’s either really cold out or this guy just did a line of blow 😂
Just curious as to how the vapor barrier was done with the wires in the cavity like that. Did the wires go through the poly and then the hole taped shut?
We spray foamed closed cell foam directly to the WRB that’s behind the exterior steel panels. Then netted and blew in dense pack cellulose into the wall. NO vapor barrier on inside of wall side!! Cellulose is our vapor moderator, and the spray foam is the air barrier layer.
Vapor barrier plastic would not have appropriate in this assembly.
QUESTION . i have a pole barn with metal covering. i put a meter between the 120 lug of the outlet and the other probe to the outside metal sheeting on the barn and it reads 120 volts. is this correct or am i going to be electrocuted. thanks, old man in idaho
I see no one answered you. I’m a design engineer 35 years experienced. If you are getting a 120 volt reading from hot to your shed metal, that is perfect. That means your shed is grounded as it needs to be. Things to consider. If fed from another building you must have a single disconnecting means at or near where the feeder enters the building. All receptacles 125 volts to ground must be GFCI protected. You must have two ground rods connected to the ground bar, and you must keep neutral and ground on separate non connected bars.
Best wishes! Old man in Missouri!
@@KevinCoop1 thank you for your response .I received an answer from another site. there is no power panel in the shop yet but i have a temporary extension cord out to it. Now here is the rub I did not state. Through the wall on the shop is a hooked bolt to tie a string on for a plant holder. there is NO wiring inside of the wall on that side of the barn. On the inside of the shop is a 1in thick paper insulation homasote board. nothing else. One evening I looked out from the house to the shop approx 35 feet away . there was an orange glow pinpoint on the wall. i walked out to see what it was and when i touched that bolt I got a large shock. the bolt was super hot from arching across the 1/32in space where it went thru the metal siding. ??? I have no answer. I removed the bolt and found it was smoldering between the inside homasote bd and the washer on the bolt. gremlins?. I am stumped.
our town code is conduit
Did you mount box the stud behind wall or just fasten box to the metal siding?
I mount the box through the steel into the wood girt behind. The hole we drill is directly above the girt, so that the box covers both the hole for the wire, and the girt.
Looks
Finished all electrical outside of walls
Nec minimum 6" of wire he cut the grounds short
Kinda click baity. Not really installing power in a finished pole barn. Best way by far is regular round conduit with steel boxes. Nothing behind the metal, always available for modification or maintenance.
Can't wait for the sharp edge of the hole to rub through the wire insulation. This guy is not an electrician.
Farmer Dave the plastic snap-in bushing prevents that from happening. The box knockout and hole in the steel siding are lined up, and the bushing goes through both holes.
@@CrawfordMethod
I guess Farmer Dave did not understand the use of the plastic insert in the beginning of the video.
@@jrsmyth9761 plastic insert was on the box yes. However there was no protection on the metal siding where romex was intialially penetrated. There would need to be another non metallic bushing to cover cut on metal siding for this to be safe over time. Correct me if I am wrong. Thanks.
@@chrisramirez4302 if the holes are aligned the wires will not touch or even come close to the “larger” cut hole.
I was wondering about this too. Is there a bushing or grommet that could/should(?) be used?