Installing 220v Outlets in the Shop - Easier Than You Thought
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- Опубліковано 5 чер 2024
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Installing 220v outlets in your shop is easier than you think. I used 2 pole, 20 amp breakers, 12 gauge stranded wire, 20 amp 240v outlets, twist lock 20 amp plugs, metal boxes, ¾ in conduit and some drywall anchors. I am not an electrician and you should consult your local code regulations before proceeding. Electrical can be dangerous and make sure that you know how to work with it before proceeding. This video shows you how easy it can be to install but you MUST make sure you understand the process and I am not responsible if you screw up and burn your house down or die. Most importantly get a multimeter and learn how to test to see if your box is hot. I’m sure I’ll get roasted by the electricians of youtube but oh well, I can take it hahaha. Please leave your disgust in the comments and double tap that dislike button. Thanks for watching! Please like, comment and subscribe. Cheers!
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People are usually shocked when they find out that I'm not a very good electrician
Bahahahahaha
ba-dump!
You win, I'm going home😂😂😂
Levi Jeans heh, I see what you did there...
Levi Jeans lmao !!!
I'm a license electrician, you did everything right, with one exception, all metal boxes have to grounded, that's why each box has a ground screw. Over all you did a great job
Good catch
Ty for the info. I recently watched a video explaining the ground and why one should ground each box. It was a cartoon and showed the character becoming the pathway of least resistance. I know its basic for you electricians, but I didn't understand why each box needed to be grounded when there was already a ground in the panel. Again ty for the solid bit of LIFE SAVING input.
all the metal boxes are connected with metal conduit, so aren't they technically grounded already?
@@nodave77 it is, you should pull a ground wire thru conduit also, if connectors loosing up. You will lose your ground
@@nodave77 They are, but electrical current will take the path of least resistance, so to make sure it is lower resistance than through your body to ground, you should ground every box.
Licensed Electrician here, I think you did a great DIY vid man. I generally cringe at the DIY videos on youtube on this subject well, because everything they tell people to do or they do them self is oh so wrong. From the type of wire they use or how its ran or leaving it exposed/ code violations ect. But I actually thought you did/ explained everything just fine and in a way that about anyone can understand. Great job my friend!
Thanks bud! A lot of arm chair quarterback commenters in here
@@katzmosestools You did ask for comments.
Aside from the under sized ground in my opinion.. really think there should be a way back for each one. 120 doesn't leave me so earie but in this case...
ChromerSatanas what part of his demo were incorrect?
@@wansolve2036 hmm🤔 actually he did a good job. I don't know what I was thinking.
I liked how you recommend the twist lock plug... and then don't twist it to lock it when you plugged it in. :)
I also noticed that but I wasn't going to comment
He needed some roasting fodder. It worked!
@@rickkeys2345 You still did, though
@@Engineer9736 Only took someone "six months" to point that out!
After watching the video advert i was still skeptical. But when i finally downloaded the plans ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxZF0EMnrujZvqHhGkxiz559uIABJWR9TG i was very impressed. The whole plan was just as you said in the video. Thank you very much. I now have a large and valuable collection for my woodworks. This is great!
Its important to know how many amps your equipment requires and size the breaker, wires and outlets correctly. Good video!
You have two grounding conductors in that panel, the one you tested was on an insulated bar meaning it's isolated back to the main. This is usually done for more sensitive electronics. The grounding conductor you want is on the left side of the panel.
Does that matter? Can I use either one for installs like this? I’m genuinely curious!
@@ireviewapple4you in theory no it does not matter for person use. however you could cause a nightmare for the next person who owns the properly if they use something that is sensitive to stray voltage. especially if they don't know wheres its coming from something like this could be hard to track down
The non bonded neutral and ground bar is because it's a sub panel and the ground conducter is the called the grounding conductor and the neutral conductor is the grounded conductor
Thank you for keeping your video realistic. To an average homeowner like me it's nice to have someone explain it straight forward. None of us what to die putting in a 220 so it is 100% our responsibility to do it safe. You just teach us the basics. Again thank you!
In my opinion the « average homeowner » should never open a breaker panel period. Only approx 20% are diy and out of that maybe 50% touch electricity work and take sufficient time to study what this involves and understand the safety measures. By the way it’s not the voltage that kills in an electric shock but the amperage. would you rather get hit by a 2x4 or a 2x10 ? Mike Tyson hitting you with a 2x4 is more lethal than your grandma hitting you with a 2x10😉
@@andreh.dupuis8475 Considering the intelligence of the average homeowner I'd have to agree. If I attempt this I'll shut the power off where it comes in off the road at the main shut off. Problem solved. I just got a $2,200 quote to have a 220 60 amp breaker and line installed. The washer/dryer combo only needs 30 amps. I've done plenty of work in the past, just never installed a new breaker. This video helped my confidence level.
@@SciaticaDrums good for you, when in doubt double check with a voltage detector, be safe 😀
Always, always ALWAYS check every incoming connection with a test probe to make sure there’s zero current running to the box.
Easiest way to do electrical: become a drinking buddy of an electrician.
Hahahaha true!
Lol so true.
I took this advice, while it's easy to do electrical, it's not that easy on the liver.
@@JaredM990 man, can we drink.
u have to put a beer at every outlet box too...
You are brave my friend... Not for doing the electrical work, but for posting a video about it. LOL! Good work.
Hahaha thanks bud.
@@katzmosestools Yeah, I see the usefulness of a very academic video where an electrical engineering professor from a fine technical university describes all the functions and features of particular electrical items -- BUT THIS ISN'T THIS, AND THAT'S OK! This is a fine practical guide and I think it's very useful. Thanks for posting.
That's what I thought! The nuts on this guy, he's braver than me! The electricians of the world are RUTHLESS!
@@MatthewHolevinski Yes we are.
Matthew Holevinski Yes we are.
I noticed that several professional electricians have commented below. None seemed to notice the 208V issue so I will go into a little more detail. This panel is fed from a three phase power source. The source is connected in a Y configuration. I know this because you have three "hot"/phase conductors plus a neutral. The voltage between any two "hot" conductors will be 208V, not 240V as the video states. The voltage between any "hot"/phase conductor and neutral is indeed 120V as stated in the video. There is no 240V anywhere in this panel. If you will notice, the videographer never measures the voltage between any two "hot"/phase conductors. If he did he would measure 208V. For a three phase Y connected source the mathematical relationship between line to neutral and line to line voltage is a factor of √3. You multiply the line to neutral voltage by the √3 (1.73) to get line to line voltage. 120 X 1.73 = 208 (okay, you have figured out by now that I am an electrical engineer). If the videographer would measure the voltage between any two of the "hot"/phase conductors in the panel or measure the voltage between the two "hot"/phase conductors in the outlet connector he will find 208V. Sometimes this a non-issue and sometimes it is a problem depending on the equipment that is being powered. On another note, I am jealous that he has three phase power in his shop. This is almost never the case in a residential environment.
He stated the fact regarding 3 phase at the beginning of the video. And he declared the video is about normal 240v split phase (residential) wiring.. so it seems he covered that. ...while a 208v tutorial 'addendum' would have been great, I think it would have confused most people not versed in alternating current systems :-).
BTW: your explanation of 3 phase and how it is 208v across the poles is probably the best i have seen.. I recommend you pop that into quora.com.. there are a zillion wrong answers over there, on this description!! :-))
The licensing scam always got laughs from me while working as an electrician and I loved the looks on home owner's faces when I explained it to them. A competitor advertised he was licensed. I told people to ask to be sure and ask him where that license was from because there was no licensing agency or requirement in the rural area where we were.
I watched this because I needed to understand what would be required if I were to call someone to install an outlet for an electric dryer and because I don’t to be a complete idiot about any aspect of my home. While I probably won’t tackle the project myself, thank you for putting this out, I learned a lot!
Good Vid! Well explained.
Love the 3 phase!
For me working with household electric made sense once I realized that the standard panel is 240 volts and that the 120v circuits are a special adaptation, not the other way around. It’s not immediately obvious because most circuits are 120v. 240v just connects across the two 120 legs. A 120v circuit connects one of the 120 legs to neutral, making it very similar to a center tap on a transformer used to get a lower voltage. This also requires that the loads be balanced across the two 120v legs. Example, most new kitchens have two 20 amp circuits, they are usually high demand and put on separate 120v legs. Similarly you’d try to balance the household lighting evenly.
Overall good install. Quick clarification that most houses in the US use 240 split phase, while the system shown was a 208 3 phase. 220 is rare in the US. This doesn’t affect much, and most >200V tools can handle all three, but hopefully this helps someone trying to figure out why their numbers don’t match.
My brain rolls over in my skull every time someone says 220 instead of 240 or 208.
@@user.A9 many HVAC companies state 208/230...
So will a 220v machine operate correctly with a 208 3 phase supply ?
@@user.A9 Yep. Or when folks say 110 instead of 120.
Change is difficult for some people. It hasn't been 110/220 for almost 100 years.
In the early 1900s, the first power systems in the US were 110/220 volts.
In the 1930s, the voltage increased to 115/230 volts due to increasing power demands.
In the 1960s, the voltage changed again to 120/240 volts.
In 1967, the voltage became standardized as 120/240 volts.
I wonder if folks will stay say 110/220 in another 100 years.
@@JeanPierreWhiteMy grandpa called it 110 and 220 when I was a kid and it stuck. I know what the real numbers are but the 10's and 20's just sound so right in my head.
Your safety is impeccable, and you explain everything clearly. I appreciate you using Lockout/Tagout.
Nice that you mentioned "Lockout/Tagout." I spent 6 years in the US Nuclear Navy, which is maybe the best education you'll ever get on Lockout/Tagout. However, we should note that Jonathan Katz-Moses only used the weaker half of that system here, the tagout. Better practice is use the lockout, too. To those unfamiliar with Lockout/Tagout, that means you both "tag" the valve/electrical device (different color tags mean different things) and then you physically lock the item (item = panel, valve, outlet, manifold, etc.). This prevents some bonehead from bumbling along, ignoring your tag, energizing the line, and killing you.
To be fair to JKM, in this setting, tagout is more common and what most of us do. When working by myself, I take it one step further. I pick up the phone and call my wife/brother/dad (whoever is available) and tell them that I'm doing electrical work, and that i will be done in about 5 (or 10 or 15, whatever) minutes, and i will call them when done to confirm that i am safe & didn't shock myself. And if i don't call at the appointed time, they are to call 911 on my behalf!
Thanks for sharing. Not slamming you man...just adding to your knowledge. It’s best to test your multi meter on a known live source before ensuring your panel is dead. You could very well have a broken lead or defective meter and it could display 0 volts.
Mr SunshinesThe professionals are telling you to quit being a dumbass.
Good video, one thing I would add is when you're using stranded wire, you should tighten set screw, then a few minutes later you should retighten as they will settle and be too loose if not retightened😎
Does this apply to wire nut twist connectors as well?
Wire ferrules on stranded wire might be a good practice.
What do you do in the event that the stranded wire wants to squeeze or spill out from around the set screw? Would I need to get solid wire in that case, and would it also want to travel away from the screw head when tightening?
Well done Jonathan ... this is one of those topics that tend to bring everyone out of the shadows and only total competence will keep most of them at bay. You managed to do just that ... again, well done. Cheeers!
I really appreciate the detail you have in this video. I need to help a friend install a 220v outlet for his Everlast welder in his shop. Currently running 110v only.
It is definitely easy and if you have a shop where the conduit is exposed, do it yourself and save a bundle. Just remember to get the correct breakers to match the type of panel you have. You usually can't return breakers so make sure you check first.
I have a old Lincoln welder and I have a few projects that need some welding on and this was the information I needed thank you my buddy is an electrician and I’ll have him help me with it👍🏼
Exactly what I was looking for! Straightforward, common sense video with no extra “see how smart I am” baloney! Thanks!
You kept it nice and simple. And from what I can tell, you didn't miss anything. Thanks for sharing.
Just wanted to sign in and say thanks. Great tutorial. I've screwed that up so many times in the past. LOL Now I'll get it right. Kee4p up the good posts.
Very clear and concise. I know the point was not to go over code , but I guess it would have been worth mentioning or partially explaining that you should make sure that your panel can handle another 220v breaker before going through all that work. Especially those who don’t have a dedicated shop and run off of a single whole house panel!
I have no capacity to resist this video. This guy has potential. 240v is watt I really need.
He is actually installing 208 volts.
@@KevinCoop1 you’re resisting my pun.
Nice video, here's a few comments from a professional sparky to help those who may not be familiar with 3Ø power. The system that you have there is a 3Ø, 4 wire, Wye system which is 208Y/120 volts. Your 2 pole receptacle is being fed with 208 volts, it is not 240 volts or 220 volts. The nominal 1Ø voltage system in the United States is 120/240. A 3Ø, 4 wire Delta system would be 240/208/120, see no 220 volts (it's an obsolete term).
You wanna become drinking buds I got some wiring I need done 🤣
Yeah he glossed over the 3 phase thing. Also his neutral will not actually be neutral due to the hots being 120 degrees (not 180 degrees) out of phase with each other. Does equipment mind that?
I was wondering the same thing. I think the bandsaw motor might not work as well as it should. But I'm really new at this.
Hands down this is such an awesome and great video. Easy to follow and so good! I’m about to expand my garage shop tools and adding 220v was the first step I had to conquer...now I can do it safely and you’re right, it looks super easy! Thank you!!
Thanks bud!
I’m a union electrician and you did just great dude. Keep it up.
he was ok except he said it was ok to use a 30 amp 220 outlet served by a 20 amp circuit which is incorrect cause the outlet will draw as much as 30 amp if there waas a fault so max outlet should be a 220 20 amp outlet if it is a 30 amp he needs to use a 30 amp 220 breaker and a 30 amp gauge wire also all metal boxes need to add ground pigtail to each splice box with green screws and straps are needed on conduit in required distances
Yup. the only point I'd make is, try and stay consistent in red/black handedness. If you are running a bunch of outlets in the shop, it makes it easier to have a pattern and mark it on the panel. The shop I worked in had a huge amount of power, and 220VAC outlets in every lab room. Some rooms had 3-4 outlets and the machine shop had tons of drops. RedTop at the breakers, RedRightSide referenced off ground in all outlets.
@@davidicousgregorian I was curious about the wire he was using because it looked kind of thin. How do you determine the gauge of wire and the proper amp for the breaker.
@@Z28PAPI sorry it took so long but the answer is based on amperage limits easy way is if it is 15 amp its limit is 1500 watts if its 20 amp limit is 2000 watts 30 amp is 3000 watts and so on and 14 gauge limit is 1400 plus 25 percent so 15 amp etc. 15 amp is no more than 14 g wire 20 amp is no more no less than 12 guage 30 amp is 10 guage and 40 amp is usually not used but a 50 amp is a 6 guage and 60 amp is needing a 2 guage
14-gauge wire 15 amps
12-gauge wire 20 amps
10-gauge wire 30 amps
8-gauge wire 40 amps
6-gauge wire 55 amps
4-gauge wire 70 amps
3-gauge wire 85 amps
2-gauge wire 95 amps
Wire Use Rated Ampacity Wire Gauge
Low-voltage lighting and lamp cords 10 amps 18-gauge
Extension cords (light-duty) 13 amps 16-gauge
Light fixtures, lamps, lighting circuits 15 amps 14-gauge
Kitchen, bathroom, and outdoor receptacles (outlets); 120-volt air conditioners 20 amps 12-gauge
Electric clothes dryers, 240-volt window air conditioners, electric water heaters 30 amps 10-gauge
Cooktops and ranges 40-50 amps 6-gauge
Electric furnaces, large electric heaters (not furnace switch that is 15amp 14 guage ) 60 amps 4-gauge
your welcome hope this helps also see this for more info www.thespruce.com/matching-wire-size-to-circuit-amperage-1152865
@@davidicousgregorian best UA-cam reply I've ever received
Easy to understand. Thanks for showing how check voltage for safety and explaining how the color wires work. great job!!! enjoyed watching it.
Awesome job, unfortunately I'm down sizing from a 2 car garage workshop to a 1 car sized workshop and have my 230amp table saw and dust collector to relocate so this video was good timing. Great sense of humor and outlook on life.
Last summer, after getting estimates from three local electricians on adding a single 220 outlet to run my tablesaw, I decided to save $400 and do it myself (I also made my own wire just like you showed on IG for your new Invicta Jointer); it was a snap. I would, however, mention that one thing I was hoping you would go over-or at least mention-is that the conduit you run will determine the number of wires for a given gauge that can be run safely. In my case I had to run a thicker gauge due to the amps the saw required and that changed the conduit size I used. But thank you for unabashedly posting this video, it really is as easy as you showed.
I really appreciate it bud!
regarding individual grounding….since conduit, receptacles, outlets all have metal does that tie all in as grounded
since they originate at panel ground??
Thank you, now I can Wire my 2 post Car Lift You confirmed what I planned to do .
Man best explanation out of any videos I've seen..gotta do this for a dryer install and you made it so clear. Screw paying for an electrician! As long as you careful and somewhat smart theres no need!
Very helpful. I got a new shop with a 3-phase box like yours. I tried to hire multiple electricians but, apparently, electricians are busy AF. I will do it myself. I was fretting about the 3 phase but see it doesn't matter with the two pole breaker, which I thought was right but it's nice to get confirmation.
Couple of things I would add to this, as installing a breaker is about as easy as it gets (this coming from a DIYer):
1) You need to know the amperage required for the item you plan on using, buy the correct gauge wire to handle that amperage as well as the correct outlet. The breaker cannot handle MORE amps than the wire and outlet. You can always use larger wire and/or outlet than required.
2) When buying the electrical box for the outlet do yourself a favor and get one larger (physically) than you need. While you CAN get a single gang box, it is a major PITA to try to bend and hook up 8 gauge wire in those things, (use 8 ga for 50 amp).
6amg for 50 no?
Finally, a really good, straight forward video. Many thanks
Can't imagine anyone not finding this video extremely helpful, well done!
Thank you for the clear explanation, your videos are dynamite!
I like that you did this on a dust collector. I am doing my first 220v on my new table saw and band saw with a dust collector to follow.
One thing I liked about your video is that you demonstrated that the bus bar is HOT!!!!
You had me at “I’m going to do the dumbest thing you can do”
Most residential has split phase AC, versus three phase. Installation of 220 breaker into the panel is pretty much the same, but the box will only have two lines, L1 and L2, that will have 120 volts AC. Also, it is a good idea to check voltage at the plug, once everything is put back together, prior to plugging stuff in.
You know it gonna be a good video when ElctroBOOM gets a mention
My only suggestion would be to use a breaker box lock or at least a zip tie to lock that box shut in addition to putting a note on it. Lock-out tag-out for the win! Of course for the home user it generally isn't a problem. BTW, I love your videos!
With my family, I'd still use the lock-out tag-out at home. Just my luck the sign falls off and someone thinks the whole breaker box blew and just turns it on.
I love that little humor in your description telling those who don't like your video for electrical code reasons to "double tap the dislike button" - very funny.
Hahaha
i triple tapped i done like my zombies coming back and biting me
I caught that too lol
Nice work, you make it look easy! Im going to convert my air compressor, from 110 to 220. Looks so easy. Thanks
Well done, simple, to the point on the subject and done safely but with the supply so far away I would have added at least the date and time the note was placed to avoid someone thinking it was old.
Thanks, great video.
I will write some safety stuff being a sparky. First, close the panel cover unless you are testing for voltage, and do not turn on breakers without it. Second, make sure the interrupting rating is high enough. That 10kA rating is the minimum for breakers. Depending on the upstream transformer, if you have a short circuit of ground fault, you could blow the breakers apart and cause an arc flash. Also, turn off the panel when putting the cover back on. Second, always ground every box with a ground screw hole that will have an outlet. Otherwise only the setscrews in the connectors and lock rings are acting as your continuity to ground. They burn out a lot quicker than the two paths that adding a ground tail will provide. Lastly, if there is anything like a welding outlet or an outlet for a large motor, add a fusible disconnect and size the breakers to proper code requirements for motors. It will save you from nuisance trips of the breakers from inrush current, and it'll save your butt if you lock the rotor or melt one of the coils. Fuses can get 300kA interrupting ratings that will safely shut down a short circuit without dumping the main for the building.
Boss - you should pin this one!
We did something similar when doing the reno on my dad's home, but didn't do the final hookups. We ran all the romex, hooked up the outlets, etc etc etc. Had an electrician come in to do an inspection and hook it up to the breaker box. Middle ground I guess.
yeah this is fairly common. the hard part is running the wire and the dangerous part is hooking to the braker.
You are lucky because many electricians will not continue work someone else has started.
Good stuff. I would definitely recommend investing in some breaker locks for added safety. We use Master brand at work.
I just watched your video and solved my curiosity on 240VAC residential. Good Job, fearless man!
Great job, my only advice is to be consistent and call it 240 volts like it is. If each leg is 120 volts, then you are getting 240 volts when using two legs. With single phase it is linear, 120 + 120 = 240. It just makes you sound more knowledgeable when using proper terminology.
This is the first install I can’t complain about.
Just can’t go with out saying,
You were awful cozy with the screwdriver and probes in that panel.
Treat electrical like you treat a gun.
“It’s always hot.”
Remember, your sending this video to show how easy it is.
A novice needs to be reminded not to get complacent.
Electrical is easy and safe if you’re cautious.
lol, I love your humility in this video. Great way to let folks know they CAN do it, but many of them SHOULD NOT do it themselves. Make friends with an Electrician!
thank you for a great instructional video for us diyers. Video and audio quality, better than your typical you tube diy videos. great job.
For those that want to try their own electrical work but want someone to check what they do, you could always try to get a permit and inspection from your local building office. Just call ahead and talk with someone about what work you should accomplish for rough-in vs final inspection. They are usually very friendly to homeowners.
Sarit Sotangkur or just post it on UA-cam... they will be sure to correct you
That works for homes, but in most areas you need an electrical contractor to pull the permit in a commercial setting.
In my area of the US, if you call the inspector for advice they will shut your job down for not being a licensed electrician! Never call the inspector or building permit office asking questions, look it up online. My advantage to getting around this is that my best friend of 20 years IS the electrical inspector!
Man I know this is old, but cities are not friendly to home owners. Not electrical but they told my friend he needs to have x% of green space on his property so they wouldn't let him build his deck he wanted. All the water from the alley would pool in his yard and he's got dogs. It's a mudfest. They didn't care if it was only 3% off if it wasn't "correct" they'd make him remove it. Of course he could apply for an exemption for 750 bucks and they could still say no. No refund. Pulling permits for your own stuff is ridiculous
The inspector shouldn’t shut your job down you are the home owner. Pulling a permit is helpful god forbid you ever need to file a house insurance claim. Insurance companies will deny claims if permits weren’t pulled and it was the result of your work.
If it's 3 phase, It's really 208, although 220V appliances won't have any problem running on 208V. The wye configuration (three phases and a center-tapped neutral) gives you 120 ph-g and 208 ph-ph. Unless you have single-phase service at the panel, you won't get 240V across the two hot wires without a transformer.
Was looking for this comment. Hopefully more people are informed about this. 👍 We all should really stop using the term 220v. It is an old nominal voltage way back. The standard now is sph 120/240, 3ph 120/208 or a delta 240 I believe.
208 and 240 volt systems are kinda fun to deal with. 3 phase will be 120/208. Single phase will be 120/240. There really isn't 220 but people say that all the time. So when I was wiring schools that had wood shops I noticed tha
t all the motors like on the lathes, table saws, jointer-planers, jig saw, band saw, etc were all rated for 200 volts instead of 208. Well mind you, I a school the electrical panel could be way down the hall a hundred feet or so. Engineers take this into account when specifying the equipment. So they spec 200 volt motors. So for fun I measured the voltage at the receptacle without the equipment running. It was 208 volts. But when the saw was turned on and cutting wood the voltage dropped to 200 volts. Perfect! So three things you always have to consider. The amperage draw of the equipment, the length of the wire from the source, and the size of the wire. All my circuits I installed had to be a number 10awg on a 20 amp breaker, which is legal, just to make up for the voltage drop. And of course you aren't supposed to load a 20 amp circuit to 20 amps. You are limited to 80% or 16 amps. So on runs less than 100 ft I could drop down in size to 12awg and not be out of spec on voltage drop. So most equipment will work at the applied voltage of 120 volts + or - 5% with no problem. So the range is 114 volts to 126 volts. Motors will burn up on lower voltage easier than on the higher voltage. Measure the voltage at your motor when it's under load and try to stay in this range.
👍 I have a detached barn/shop and have just added a sub panel to the shop just for my 220. Sadly, with a 127 year old home, my main power comes from a master panel up at the house. There’s two sources coming into the barn breakered up at the house at 90 amp each. I currently only have two devices that need 220; my bandsaw and my 17k heater that’s used to supplement the small propane heater in Jan/Feb or to take the edge off the cold first thing in the mornings during the winter. Before the 17k heater, I’d have a large kerosene heater going, but got headaches from the fumes and it took up valuable floor space. Will add a second service to the house this next year when we do some renovations/etc, so two bills in the end, but it’ll be nice to have a full on 3 phase capable panel. I don’t see me buying a 3 phase tool ever, but certainly will be adding a new dust collector to replace my current one some day. Essentially all 2 phase will run from one panel and all outlet/fixture power will run from another. Thanks Jonathan.
Just installed a truck lift in my garage and had to hook up 220, to the motor, thanks for helpful video 👍
120+120 =240
Haha, loved that first clip of the guy touching a live wire.
Hahahaha
That is Electroboom here on YT, and he does it on purpose so you don't have to 😉
Terrific video, really helpful. I’d like it if you could get the camera closer to the box, and go slow motion. Maybe do that and do a voice over. Try it! Maybe another video on adding a sub breaker box too? Good work!
Great user name.
Another great video! Thanks, JKM, and keep up the awesome content!
Also, loving my stop block!
I have LITERALLY been stressing about 220v for days.
I need an outlet in my garage to run my welder and have been stressing about how much it'll cost and can it be done etc etc..
Thanks for the video buddy, I think I can sleep tonight.
Probably won't do it myself this time around, but I'm definitely glad I saw this
I promise I’m not trying to sound like a snob... It was great safety work inside the panel which is the most important bit. The only things I would suggest is,
1. I personally would do as many grounding points as possible. That way, you can make sure that your piping and any exterior metal is the most conductive path to ground to trip the breaker. It’s weird but I’ve seen a hot wire snap in conduit and the whole conduit buzzes for a while before the breaker finally trips.
2. It’s worth mentioning that you shouldn’t just pull any gauge wire through conduit. You need to check that the gauge of wire is appropriate for the amount of amperage and distance it will be run. It’s a bad day when your wire fails before your breaker trips.
3. This ones not a big deal but sometimes the phase of the wiring does matter when it comes to motors. I think it’s only when it deals with 3 phase motors but if your x and y phase are flipped, the motor can run backwards. Easy fix and there’s no universal wiring for it so sometimes you just have to flip phase anyway to make something work.
Other than that, it’s really good to see people show that you can do electrical yourself. Even if you’re not comfortable with working in a panel, you can still do the work up to it and leave it open for an electrician to hook up and quickly inspect. It’s a much cheaper option than having them do all the work. It’s the difference between 1 hr and 8 hrs of work being charged.
All good points my friend
1 & 2 are pretty important. Especially if there is a chance you will get inspected. I’m not an electrician, but I was doing most of my own rough in on my shop, and it was getting inspected, so even though it was more expensive I made sure I had 6 and 8 ga for the higher amp (50 amp) outlets where needed based on length from the box. There are easy to read charts all over the place to help figure this out, but as always if you are not confident check with a pro. But great video, and like you said it doesn’t take much to do it safely and easily, and save your self some change.
The last bit is great advice. Running conduit, mounting boxes, and feeding wire isn't hard or dangerous. But for me, I'd never forgive myself if I screwed something up and burned the house down or hurt somebody other than myself, so I'll always opt to have a licensed professional do the final connections and make sure that everything I did is up to standards. Am I super likely to screw it up that bad? No. I can follow directions and I work very carefully. But the peace of mind is worth a few bucks.
How can you do a phase check before you plug in your device?
The pipe can be used as a bond, no bonding wire required.
Gotta love these comments from the UA-cam “PROS” giving you 💩... you did a great job man and explained yourself perfectly.
Yeah it was a good video, but it’s wrong and dangerous. You wouldn’t let this guy do your dental work would you, but your happy to wire your own house wrong and risk burning your family one night or burning your house down and not even starting with the lack of insurance due to under code installation.
Thanks! This helped me understand more than the 15 other videos I've watched!
Thank you very much for the video! I knew that red and black were hot wires but was unsure if it mattered what order you put those in. I’m installing a Level 2 EV charger in my garage (hard wiring direct to the unit) and that was the only thing I was unsure about. It was hard to get a direct answer on the internet. Thanks again, brother!
Lol "Double-tap the dislike button" Genius.
Couple things I would add to the video. If people do decide to go with a 30 amp plug and breaker they need to increase their wire from 12 gage to 10 gage. Also something I was instructed to do when I was an apprentice was. With stranded wire tighten the screw, wiggle the wire back and forth several times and tighten again.
Yeah... I'm gonna just slap a wire ferrule on any stranded wire I'm using..
That said, I would also just get solid-core for anything larger than 18AWG personally, but to each their own I suppose.
@@zenginellc I would prefer solid core as well. But I had to learn with what I was given.
@@TheChristCenteredCraftsmanWho wouldn't prefer solid core? I can't even fathom why anyone would ever use stranded wire when installing electrical.
Great video! Simple, straight to the point! You gained another subscriber!
Great video brother I’m about to install this now that I need one since my A/C went out I’ll let you know how it goes. Awesome work thanks alot
All round quite good work and reasonable testing. In Australia, the work you completely likely would be marked as defective for a couple of reasons (I have no idea what the laws and standards are in the US, please don’t hurt me!)
1) excessive copper exposed near terminating screws on outlets.
Simple thing to fix, shorten the length of copper that is being fixed to the outlet, partly for safety and partly for the perfectionist in me.
2) Wire size. Wiring for fixed electrical outlets in Australia should be wired in no less than 2.5 square millimetres (10Ga). Rated to carry over 20A in conduit.
3) (testing) I personally check continuity from earth to earth on each outlet and make sure all is good. A proper test device will provide you with conductor impedance too and make sure there are no issues with the cabling.
Other than those, excellent job! Again, i don’t know the legalities of unlicensed electrical work in the US/Canada but in australia it is an offence to undertake electrical work without the proper license or permit. Here we have very strict standards that protect us from electric shock and dodgy work completed by under qualified persons. Another difference is the lack of RCD protection on power circuits (GFCI). In Australia it is mandatory to fit RCD protection to all power and lighting circuits, and these days it must be fitted to almost all other circuits too. (Air con, hot water systems, electric stoves/ovens etc.)
Julian Curmi thanks for the info. I’m no electrician but am always interested in learning. What is the necessity of GFCI outlets if your system is properly grounded and it’s not a wet scenario? Also, would something like a welder constantly trip the GFCI? Thanks
In the US, fixed electrical outlets are most often wired, in residential settings, as either 14Ga (for 15 amp breakers) or 12Ga (for 20 amp breakers). This is regardless of whether it’s 120V or 240V. 10Ga is used for 30A circuits, which you generally will not find except for 240V circuits for special purposes (e.g. dryer, oven, shop tools, etc.). No one here would use 10Ga for anything under 20A and under except (maybe?) in a very long run.
Your phase to phase voltage is 208 because your working with three phase panel. Some equipment may not like 208 and will require a boost transformer to raise the voltage to 240 volts.
How true! Because so much stuff is made in China. I had a compressor motor from China with a name plate of 230 v 1phase. The shop only had 208 3 phase. What to do? If I connected to the 208 3 phase the voltage would be too low and under load the compressor could burn up. This compressor was single phase, therefore requiring only 2 of the 3 power legs. So I dif some calculations and got some transformer catalogs and found a buck boost single phase transformer that I used to boost the 208 v to 240 v. Although 240 is higher than the motor name plate of 230 volt it is less than a 10,% increase. Most motors will run at plus or minus 1O%. Going the other way and subtracting 10% from the nameplate of 230v equals 207v. Could burn up. Funny thing though. When I wired in the buck boost xfmr and started motor the voltage at the motor under load was 233v. Perfect! So pay attention to those name plate ratings specifically on crap from China.
Fun to watch and easy to understand. Thanks for putting this together.
Very good, and simple. I my self, not an electrician, usually LOTO the breakers, that leaving a note behind is a no no. You always got one person who doesnt care about notes...
I love his LOTO technique.
It is actually a 120/208 3ø Y system on the panel he is working in. Not bad advice. You should have tested between the phases to confirm the voltage for the equipment you are powering.
I'm glad someone said it. It will work, but how long will his machines last with the increase in current draw?
He told you he tested the incoming voltage before he disconnected the panel.
I think what Robert Post it's saying is that even though the individual phases are 120 to ground/neutral, there's only 208 volts between the legs (even though Jonathon was talking about wiring a 240 volt receptacle). I know with my 240v single phase welder, I have to change an internal connection to make it compatible with 208v (per the manual, to achieve its rated output). I've seen motors explicitly rated for 208, and I've seen them with no mention. Point is, for the same power - 208 requires more amps, and running it under-voltage will decrease the life of the equipment (maybe less important for a motor, but any control electronics/computers will NOT like being used continually in an under-voltage state). And Jonathon did not show or mention this consideration even though he did touch on the fact that his setup is 3 phase.
Anyway, good job pointing that out. I've recently been trying to wrap my head around 3 phase as dad's shop has added some 3 phase equipment. It's not exactly a linear extension of single phase, lol. And trying to understand delta vs Y makes my brain hurt. 🤯😳🤣🤣
Super SLo This is very true. If where Delta then it would be true 240v with 120v to ground/neutral to say A phase and C phase and 1.732 x 120v or about 208v to ground on the B phase or high leg. I always encourage the customer to get a compressor or similar appliance 3ø to get the best efficiency from the appliance and use the highest voltage that they have available(480/277)(208/120)(240/120) all 3ø
Ok so I have a piece of equip says 220V/3 Phase and panel i tested phase to phase 240v but then phase to neutral I get A/120 B/120 C208 how do I connect my device 3wires hot n ground or do I connect 2wires n ground??? I not understanding how u get 240 2wires hot or 240 3wires hot n still have 240V either or??
Awesome ... thanks for doing this... Im a Mechanic / fabricator with small shop thats getting bigger by the day!!!!!
Another excellent tutorial from your shop!
I just wired a 240 v outlet for my shop heater ..
easy once you see how it’s done 👍..
I would have to say that since all legs to ground are 120 volts it’s a wye connection, because if it were a delta the b leg to ground would be 208, and with that said since it is 3 phase power each phase to ground via black to ground, red to ground, and blue to ground is 120 volts, but from phase to phase via black to red, black to blue, or red to blue you most certainly have 208 volts instead of 240 because it adds up vectorially because of the 120 degree phase shift of each leg. Because single phase for normal residential power comes from one leg on the power line and stepped down which I why you only have two lines in residential neighborhoods, a hot leg and a grounded neutral; where as where three phases are used for three phase power like commercial, and industrial installs which is what I work with has all three phases and a grounded neutral and you will have three different single phase transformers tied together for you stepped down 3 phase power which is 277/480 (brown, orange, yellow, grey) wye connection, 480 (brown, orange, yellow) delta, 120/208 (black, red, blue, white) wye connection, and there is a 120/240 volt center tapped delta which is where the high leg comes in where the b phase had to be marked orange. So two of the phases would be 120 volts to ground and the other would be 208, but you would be able to get 240 out of two phases. In three phase power each leg is 120 degrees out of phase to even the power throughout the three phases. And then of course your normal residential 120/240 volts or split phase as it is called sometimes where it takes one phase and splits it into to voltages which is why you see one transformer at each house. In a single transformer the power is 180 degrees out of phase to even it out since its two phases instead of three it is even. So this is why you couldn’t possibly have 240 volts on that receptacle. It would be 208 because of the phase shift of three phase. Just a bit of info thrown your way. Take your multimeter and check it from phase to phase (hot to hot) and see what the voltage is. Most motors have a 10% variation plus or minus it’s rated voltage either 115 volts or 230 volts to withstand our nominal voltage which comes in at 240 volts or 120 volts. In your case the your motor is rated at 230 volts so 10% of that is 23 volts plus or minus from the 230 volts, so on the low end 207 volts it will run at which your voltage is 208 so your motor will run, but the torque of the motor will be reduced some around 20% or so. But your multimeter will tell the voltage though.
Thanks for the knowledge bud!
Anytime bro.
If you're in San Francisco, CA the 208v high leg is marked with purple instead of orange. Not sure why, but that's what they do.
Taylor Yeah, it’s in the ugly’s book as a high leg marker also. Not sure why and never saw it done at least here in Florida, but I have heard of it though.
Great explanation. Thanks.
Great, that was very insightful. Keep up the good job my friend. God bless you.
Nice! I'm getting ready to install a 220 for my daughter's Tesla. This is a major help!
Thanks bud. Stay safe
Awesome video bro.
My safety auditor would have an aneurysm over your LOTO procedures.
I love it! :)
more like what loto
Not a bad job at all. And this coming from a guy with 40+ years in the trade.
On thing though! Do not use a 30 amp rated outlet with wire rated for 20 amps. Use the proper gauge wire for the appropriate application...
Also as a note........ This is a straight 208/240 volt setup.... NO NEUTRAL!
The wiring method for say, a clothes dryer would be slightly different...... As The dryer requires a neutral and a four wire outlet, Two hotlegs a neutral and a ground.......
Thanks bud!
To add to it, I'd get myself un Ugly book before doing anything to take the guess work out of things. Not all local codes match NEC but, for the most part they do but don't count on it. One fire marshal visit can shut your commercial enterprise down. I worked on the Alabama power remod in Celera, AL and just from a practical, Electrician standpoint, it's always better to ensure you're work is up to code (strapping from both the panel board & along your EMT/MC) because if anything ever goes sideways and an insurance company can prove it's not up to local code, guess what? They ain't payin'...usually, NEC will work though.
What 208/240? Please explain. I'm not an electrician but wanna understand
SimplyTHC 208volt here in canada is the 3phase power generally in commercial buildings. Where as 240 is both hots present on a single phase residential service.
@@izaacridler9234 thank you for the answer sir!
Awsome video. Straight to the point, but loaded with info and explanation. Im looking to add a 240 in my garage. Im getting an electrician to do a quote first, but innthe end most likely do it myself. Thanks for the video!
And people wonder why electricians and plumbers are licensed but not auto mechanics.
Dude...thank you. Just retro'd a lone 110v outlet on a dedicated circuit to 220 for my incoming jointer.....would not have attempted it without your video. I need to buy something from your site to say thank you for saving me the elec $$$. Unless my barn burns down and the insurance people finger me for crappy wiring :). Be well.
I tried wiring something like that once but my x wouldn’t sit in the chair.
LMFAO
Always remember to hit your x in the head with a baseball bat in the head first 🤣
Man do the guy a break.... But that was really fucken funny
🤣🤣
ALWAYS make sure the sponge is wet...
Easy!
Super
Can we just have some fun?
Check it
Interesting how UA-cam connects Craftsman who would have otherwise never have known that person existed.
Great job explaining everything and you explained it in simple terms so someone like me that knows nothing about this can easily understand.
Nice, clear, clean and concise. Thank you. That is why your craftsman ship is superior. God Bless
Loved the "Lock out, Tag out" process! hehehe
I love how he showed electroboom 🤣
Best video yet on this glad you showed the function of the breaker getting the power from the panel.
I don't want to hear no drama negative thinking great video buddy now I'm back in Contour with the whole wide universe and my little shed project
Loved the intro hilarious!!!!
Hahahaha thanks bud!
Just something I would add is to ground all boxes that have terminations or joints in them. That would be up to code and safer
Ty is was great. I’m still going to do some more research because it’s my home but I’m not as scared now because this was easier than the breaker for my washer and I just did that with power on. I live dangerously and with great gloves and equipment.
Perfect instructions and easy for beginner to understand. I gave you thumb up!