One of things that is so important for me in this video is to see the rock shaft adjustments and to see how the mechanism moves after you adjusted it and to hear how the mechanisms sound when you move them. It's a subtle thing, but when you demonstrated how the shaft moves and I heard the "clicking" sound as the feed dogs engaged, it was something of an "Aha" moment for me. Thanks Bob.
After spending 2 months trying to get the big screw out of the thread regulator, this video helped me tremendously. I have a 66 Lotus that shipped from the UK and it resulted in a broken feed fork during shipping. I am amazed right now that after watching this video for a couple of seconds, I have everything back into place up to putting the nut back onto the end of the fork bolt. I am beyond thrilled!!!! Thank you Bob Fowler!!! I am bowing down to you right now!!!
😓 Just realized during the assembly that I am over my head thinking everything 🙃 be okay when I assembly Rusty back. 😅 Thanks for the video. Please excuse me I need to 😱😭 prepare myself to deal with Rusty .😅
@@BobFowlerWorkshop Please forgive me for dougting you i was way above my station i remeasured it is 28tpi i cleaned one side and tapped with 27 tpi I am now trying to repair my mess I wont doubt you again
Hey Bob, I'm restoring a 1905 66 Red Eye with perfect decal and paint, but years ago, the previous owner decided to make a fireplace mantelpiece out of it and make a table with the treadle for sale Grrrrrr.... You know. Anyway, she removed the entire feed linkage under the dog, flat out broke the bellcrank and then used a vise grip to put it back on. It has a large screw with a #19 head slot instead of the bushing with the screw like yours. I bought a new linkage set but I'm finding that this screw gets harder as I go in. Is it conical? Or is it crud? Should I re-tap it? Edit. Screw is part number 50561 and I have a replacement in perfect shape.
It's not conical. I need some time as I'm not near the shop, but I'll measure the threads and advise the tap size you're going to need. Your machine should have had the stud and threaded ring, but I'm pretty sure the screw type part you have should work.
@@BobFowlerWorkshop Hey, I got it finished last night. It just had a layer of crud and fossilized shmoo in the the inner threads. Cleaned it out, made a test run and got'er done. Thanks for the support and the videos.
Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't, it all depends on the assembly. Also (here's a secret) sometimes I do things in multiple takes, and the oil went on in the first take, and I don't want to slather it on... LOL Seriously though, it really doesn't matter as I'm going to give it an oiling before we put on the finishing touches.
Bob, I always notice how some of your parts (rock shafts, lifter arms in particular) are more on the sliver side after you clean them. All the ones I have taken off are more of a black color, I thought it was a coating or something that they put on. I know you polish these parts and I know it’s ok to do so, were they originally that silver/pewter color when the machines were new? Does the black come with age? Because it would really BUG me if I wasn’t getting those parts as clean as I could. Thanks :)
Jen, some of the blackened parts you see (mostly on newer machines (and "newer" is a relative term)) have been chemically treated to get the black color - usually accompanied by a rougher surface texture. I tend to just clean those parts and leave them black, though if I have some that are badly rusted, I will use a bench motor with a wire wheel to get rid of the rust, which sometimes takes the black coating. This particular 66 was made around the First World War, and I don't think it was ever cleaned properly. Go back and look at the first video where I removed the mainshaft and you'll see the level of filth this machine had. Most of the large hard parts went to the sink for an initial degreasing, then to the other shop for the wire wheel treatment to get the hard, crusty stuff off. I believe I mentioned in this video that I wasn't going to repaint this machine. L:ast night, I was thinking about that statement, and I may go ahead and, after she's finished, take her apart again and strip her down to bare metal and give her a fresh coat of paint and some new decals. That may have to wait for a while though.
Oh! I’d love to your process of strippyand repainting. I haven’t gotten to the IH Red Machine videos yet but. I’ll definitely queue them up. Thank you for your wealth of knowledge and sharing! I brag about you to everyone whether they want to know or not. Thank you!!!
@@BobFowlerWorkshop ok, that makes sense. Thanks for settling that in my mind! Of course everyone will want to see you paint the machine but it’s an undertaking for sure!
One of things that is so important for me in this video is to see the rock shaft adjustments and to see how the mechanism moves after you adjusted it and to hear how the mechanisms sound when you move them. It's a subtle thing, but when you demonstrated how the shaft moves and I heard the "clicking" sound as the feed dogs engaged, it was something of an "Aha" moment for me. Thanks Bob.
After spending 2 months trying to get the big screw out of the thread regulator, this video helped me tremendously. I have a 66 Lotus that shipped from the UK and it resulted in a broken feed fork during shipping. I am amazed right now that after watching this video for a couple of seconds, I have everything back into place up to putting the nut back onto the end of the fork bolt. I am beyond thrilled!!!! Thank you Bob Fowler!!! I am bowing down to you right now!!!
😓 Just realized during the assembly that I am over my head thinking everything 🙃 be okay when I assembly Rusty back. 😅 Thanks for the video. Please excuse me I need to 😱😭 prepare myself to deal with Rusty .😅
Bob have you ever seen a singer 99 that is similar to a 221 with the extension front. I’ve heard it called a half size 99.
No, never seen that one, but if I do...
Heritage sewing machine tour. Two Singer 3/4 99
my rock shaft screws measure 3/8 x 27tpi
I am very curious... what is your machines year of manufacture?
@@BobFowlerWorkshop Please forgive me for dougting you i was way above my station
i remeasured it is 28tpi
i cleaned one side and tapped with 27 tpi
I am now trying to repair my mess
I wont doubt you again
sent a link to your facebook site
My 66 lotus is sewing!!!! Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Hey Bob, I'm restoring a 1905 66 Red Eye with perfect decal and paint, but years ago, the previous owner decided to make a fireplace mantelpiece out of it and make a table with the treadle for sale Grrrrrr.... You know. Anyway, she removed the entire feed linkage under the dog, flat out broke the bellcrank and then used a vise grip to put it back on. It has a large screw with a #19 head slot instead of the bushing with the screw like yours. I bought a new linkage set but I'm finding that this screw gets harder as I go in. Is it conical? Or is it crud? Should I re-tap it?
Edit. Screw is part number 50561 and I have a replacement in perfect shape.
It's not conical. I need some time as I'm not near the shop, but I'll measure the threads and advise the tap size you're going to need. Your machine should have had the stud and threaded ring, but I'm pretty sure the screw type part you have should work.
Thank you, no rush!
@@BobFowlerWorkshop
@@BobFowlerWorkshop Hey, I got it finished last night. It just had a layer of crud and fossilized shmoo in the the inner threads. Cleaned it out, made a test run and got'er done. Thanks for the support and the videos.
I noticed that during your reassembly of parts that you do not oil as you go. I enjoy your videos.
Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't, it all depends on the assembly. Also (here's a secret) sometimes I do things in multiple takes, and the oil went on in the first take, and I don't want to slather it on... LOL Seriously though, it really doesn't matter as I'm going to give it an oiling before we put on the finishing touches.
Bob, I always notice how some of your parts (rock shafts, lifter arms in particular) are more on the sliver side after you clean them. All the ones I have taken off are more of a black color, I thought it was a coating or something that they put on. I know you polish these parts and I know it’s ok to do so, were they originally that silver/pewter color when the machines were new? Does the black come with age? Because it would really BUG me if I wasn’t getting those parts as clean as I could. Thanks :)
Jen, some of the blackened parts you see (mostly on newer machines (and "newer" is a relative term)) have been chemically treated to get the black color - usually accompanied by a rougher surface texture. I tend to just clean those parts and leave them black, though if I have some that are badly rusted, I will use a bench motor with a wire wheel to get rid of the rust, which sometimes takes the black coating. This particular 66 was made around the First World War, and I don't think it was ever cleaned properly. Go back and look at the first video where I removed the mainshaft and you'll see the level of filth this machine had. Most of the large hard parts went to the sink for an initial degreasing, then to the other shop for the wire wheel treatment to get the hard, crusty stuff off. I believe I mentioned in this video that I wasn't going to repaint this machine. L:ast night, I was thinking about that statement, and I may go ahead and, after she's finished, take her apart again and strip her down to bare metal and give her a fresh coat of paint and some new decals. That may have to wait for a while though.
Oh! I’d love to your process of strippyand repainting. I haven’t gotten to the IH Red Machine videos yet but. I’ll definitely queue them up. Thank you for your wealth of knowledge and sharing! I brag about you to everyone whether they want to know or not. Thank you!!!
@@BobFowlerWorkshop ok, that makes sense. Thanks for settling that in my mind! Of course everyone will want to see you paint the machine but it’s an undertaking for sure!