proof that you are nearing the beginning of the end... until such time that you learn that some of the original "basics" are now drawn into question.... in short, this is a never-ending rat hole... LOL
I am a 75 year old retired grandmother looking for a hobby. I watched UA-cam videos of furniture flippers, thinking I might try refinishing furniture. That took a year and then I refinished a desk for my daughter-in-law. It took time and I enjoyed working with my 7 year old grandson as he liked helping grandma. All went well until it was time for the finish. I used a pre stain, then a stain and then polyurethane. I did not like the results. Everyone else liked it, including my daughter-in-law. She uses the desk and is appreciative. That was 6 months ago and I decided not to take on another project until I could educate myself on finishes. Back to UA-cam for another few months and then I watched this video. I knew this was what I had been looking for., a genius concoction. A few days later I purchased two dressers, a night stand and side table from an auction house. I completed the side table and love it. The finish is unbelievable. I am so happy. I enjoy working with wood and consider each piece a work of art. My projects aren't perfect, but I am learning. I cannot thank you enough for sharing this information and giving me this opportunity. I would like to send you a photo of my completed project, but don't know how to attach a photo.
I am 70 year old granny and 3 years in to woodworking. I build furniture and even though it may take me a long time to complete a table or bed, it is so fun to do. I will be using this finish for the first time on a walnut bed I am building for my daughter. Fingers crossed.
I am now in my late 70s. My great uncle was a fine cabinetmaker from the 1920s into the 1970s. I spent uncounted hours in his shop as a kid. One of my jobs was to measure the mix he used for all of his finish word - a 50/50 mix of Linseed Oil and Turpentine. This sounds like an update of that recipe. The final step was a coating of paste was and elbow grease. This video brought back those memories.
50/50 is old school! You can build a great finish that way, but it takes many applications and a lot of evaporation. I bet a lot of your uncle's work still looks great.
Working with wood - turning a piece of wood into something that is not only beautiful but has a sustainable economic value for practical use in our daily lives - is in my humble opinion - a way more complex topic than I ever imagined. The more I learn about "wood" and how to treat wood - the more I get frustrated about how little I know.
This is by far the best and easiest finish I have ever used. I normally ruin (in my mind) the pieces I have built until I used this. Super easy to make and use. Thank you for sharing.
I like the simplicity of your method which tight-pored woods like hard maple look beautiful. Years ago I built a period-correct longrifle out of a red maple stock blank with a beautiful curl. I used the period-correct stain of a dangerous combination of 18-molar nitric acid, water and a ball of steel wool. My mixture was 4 parts water to one part acid AND ALWAYS POUR THE ACID INTO THE WATER! Wearing both safety googles and a face shield I added the water. Taking the mixture outside and pointing away from my face, I put the entire steel wool ball in the solution. It flashed off instantly and left me a beautiful reddish-brown stain. The process requires all smoothing prior to application of the stain - NO STEEL WOOL, or the acid and steel fibers will make "freckles" in the finish. After drying overnight, I flashed off the stain with a propane torch with low flame and light passes. Funny, it looked like a rusty rifle, LOL. Then was the time for steel wool and final smoothing. After a once-over with a tack cloth, I began applying boiled linseed oil. I applied 20 coats, rubbing vigorously after each coat was dry. The end result was deep-rubbed luster and prominent display of the wood's curl. Beautiful.
I first came across the poly blend about 1993. It was Sam Maloof’s blend. I’ve used it on many projects, from furniture to kitchen cabinets. It is very durable. It is easy to apply. But yeah, if you want to last, you do have to wait in between coats.
I came here to say this also, if it's good enough for Sam, it's good enough for me. The only difference I remember with Sam Maloof was that he would wipe the wood clean until no residue was left on the rag immediately after applying the oil. I've followed this with great results for years.
Wow. Thank you so much for this. I tested this out previously and just finished my first mantle with it. This looks amazing and I’m quite proud of the results. Super high end piece that I made in my driveway that’ll be the center of my home for the next 50 years. Pretty cool
I’m half way through this technique on some sweet chestnut and so far it’s looking amazing! Thank you for this. I’ve messed around with various finishes using oils and wax and this is the best
I made a couple of mahogany winding sticks and used this finish as directed. The finish is amazing. You can increase the shine by polishing with a few coats of beeswax and there is no build up, just an amazing finish. I will definitely use this method again, brill..........
It’s awesome to see from one wood worker to another seeing the different finishing materials and techniques. I will definitely be trying this on smaller projects.
Im just starting out on my journey with turning wood and ive been baffled by which finish to use, never occurred to me to blend them! Thank you my man!
Absolutely love this finish!!!! Like silk on a piece of wood, I definitely didn’t want to hide any of the character of the wood under a glossy or glassy finish.So easy to apply, with few elements to worry about…time, temperature and dust free environment. Thanks so much for this simple process and finish. I will use it many times in the near future
Wow! Way cool! Thanks! I have “tinkered” with woodworking for most of my 73 years on this Earth. The one thing that I have always just despised is finishes. I just hate it. This is pretty darned simple and looks great. I’m stealing it!
Man I’ll tell you. I decided to try this finish on a lil something I made for a friend and I almost don’t want to give it to her it’s so perfect. Very nice video bro
My immature mind could not make it through these 9 minutes without cackling with laughter. Someone with some editing skills needs to jump in here and give these innuendos the ‘big finish’ they deserve! Love your work Eric and love watching your videos!
Excellent info, thanks. When I was in boat school we did some simple projects like a tool box, and the go-to finish was three coats of Daly's Seafin Teak Oil, wet sanded to 400, then a final wax buff with #0000 steel wool. I tried simplifying it to Watco Danish Oil, but still wasn't pleased with the results for my sculptural art boxes. I realized after viewing this vid that you simply cannot get away from a great finish taking days, it's as simple as that, and you have to make allowances accordingly. Anyway, I followed your suggestion herein, more than pleased. Thanks again.
As a new woodworker, dust collection and learning about spontaneous combustion ( which i thought were myths) have probably been the best safety measures ive learned. I think actual blades come in second. Lets keep spreading the word on the combustion issue, as it would be a horrible nightmare for someone to burn down their shop or home,due to something some ppl would never have thought was possible.
There is an idea called "spontaneous human combustion" about humans spontaneously burning, and this is a myth. It mostly comes from prople passing out (due to alcohol or a serious medical health event of some sort) while smoking, and the burnt remains often have no visible or testable evidence of how the fire started or why the person didn't wake up from the heat. However, spontaneous combustion due to a slow exothermic chemical reaction in the right conditions is very real. A bunch of rags in a pile soaked in anything that "cures" can be the right conditions.
I too thought combusting oily rags was a myth from shop class movies at school. BUT, I saw it with my own eyes one hot summer day. My dad put some oily rags in a trash can on his just finished deck. It was a big can and in direct sunlight. 20 mins later I saw the smoke coming from the can. Luckily, I saw it before it burned down the house. Never treated finish rags the same since.
In college I rented an old farmhouse. The landlord lived in a new mobile home and worked antique furniture in his shop. My truck was parked in front of the south window of the shop. I was leaving for class , or work, about 2pm and saw flames about halfway up that south facing window. I ran to his trailer and he and I went in with a garden hose. I sprayed the fire while he was furiously trying to save some special pieces out the back door. What happened was his finish rags in a trash can were in the direct path of sunlight through the window. Spontaneous combustion for sure. Ultimately I was going in and out with the hose due to smoke until the rural fire guys showed up. Lots of water damage once they got going. To this day my rags go outside as soon as I am done with them.
Thank you, my friend. Made a big difference in putting a beautiful crowning touch on a large sculptural piece I've been working on for the past 6 months
Thanks for sharing this. I’ve been struggling to figure out the “buttery finish” that I love about things like Rubio or odies, but wanting the sturdiness of a poly. Looks like you’ve nailed exactly what I’ve been scratching my head about.
Poly isn't really any more sturdy than a good hardwax oil, in fact, it's often less sturdy. Urethane bonds have inferior chemical resistance. They degrade over time. hilariously enough, one of the products you mentions actually IS a urethane. Rubio monocoat turns into polyurethane when you mix the part two in. The second part is an isocyanate reactant, not a catalyst. It's there to form urethane bonds with the linseed oil creating polyurethane. The resulting finish is prone to the same decay as poly because it is poly. To get a real hardwax oil finish out of rubio you'd have to drop the part two, which might be doable but i don't think they recommend it.
@@boulderguywhy How much time does it take for ply to degrade? I have reclaimed barn furniture that I built 20 some years ago and it still looks as good as the day I finish coated it. Also as a side curiosity, I never understood why anyone would have much trouble getting that "buttery" finish, when just about any varnish, tung/danish oil can produce it, so long as it's sanded and polished properly. I sometimes suspect the reason everyone loves it so much is because a high mirror like sheen can be so difficult to achieve, therefor it's just easier to love the satin finish 🤔
Very cool. Love to see the techniques that the pros have perfected for their use. I marvel at the different pros different prefferred methods; the common demoninator seems to be that they use quility products, avoid shortcuts and invest the adequate time and effort plus the years of trial and error it takes to master something. I personally like to spray laquers and 2-part polys, but then again, I have years invested in the technique so it works really well for me. I will try this!
Thank you for the finish recipes. I also fell in love with this box. I've made a few like it since taking full inspiration from you. Really took my skills up a notch. Your my idol among all woodworkers.
I’ve referred back to the finishing tips in your Insta stories many times-love having this info as a video. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
Used this formula for 2 side tables made from Cherry. I use BLO instead of his finishing oil, at 2 parts oil, 1 part Poly, and 1 part Thinner. The key to success is to keep the coats thin, and wipe off any excess about 5 minutes after applying.
Thank you for keeping it simple both in application and explanation, I've been refinishing for 45years and have applied about every type of finish, and I most enjoy "simple" KISS (keep it simple saints). Nice Work!
Been trying different finishes staying away from polys and I'm thinking you may have my solution with your ingenious mix. Also , storing in a jar seems a much better way than the leak prone cans seem to be . Thank you sincerely for sharing that!
Just finished a project with your finish recipe I must say it's awesome thank you so much for your video's love them all When you go back to the school in Maine this summer say hi to my daughter in law Joanne she works in the office
My favorite finish has become 50/50 Tung Oil/Orange Solvent. It’s a food safe finish that has provides good protection and is easy to maintain. Plus, it makes my workshop smell like oranges.
Thanks. You just saved me about a grand on a HVLP system. I'm just a hobbyist not concerned with mass production, but I do have the goal of achieving a quality finish on my projects. I'll try your method on the next one. Thanks for posting. Mark
Thank you especially for demonstrating with a small project. I'm a beginner woodworker and my primary interest is keepsake boxes much like your example. I've struggled with applying finish, and then smudging it as I handle the box to work on the adjacent sides. It's clear from the video that your method eliminates any concern about that. I'm definitely going to try it.
Just completed my first actual fine woodworking project. I made a keepsake box with hand cut dovetails. There were issues with the joinery, fitting the base, and the lid, however I used your method for finish and that part turned out great. Thank you!
Well that is exactly what I’ve been looking for to compare with my normal method - this wins hands down! It is fairly time consuming for larger items like desks though! Super video, I love the easy repair aspect, as clients always do something to the finish that needs a small touch up in a few years.
I would love to see a video on how you finish cutting boards. This was excellent and I will be using this going forward. Do you have a timeframe on how long this mix lasts after you make a batch?
You have saved me, I don't know how many headaches! This is so great! I followed your instructions and just applied the first coat to a table I recently made. It was so easy. THANK YOU!
Thanks for great video! Could you provide more information about the mixture of bee wax with oil and turpentine? I followed the instructions from a video, but the mixture seems too fluid even though the wax has melted with the other ingredients.
Very interesting - don’t disagree with any of it. When making large pieces commercially, I think the time/effect balance wouldn’t allow for all these coats and waiting time - but for smaller, very high end pieces, that balance doesn’t really matter. When making tables for instance, we used to go halfway between your solution and just something like Osmo. We would apply 2 coats of Osmo and then thinned wax (I would suggest buying beeswax in blocks and thinning it yourself) scrubbed in with a scotch pad. We got the durability of hard wax/oil; that buttery smoothness of wax plus the ability to easily refinish years down the line. In summary, the industry that makes finishes would love you to believe it is either all very complex - or that a one simple coat of magic solves everything. Neither is true in my experience. Time and effort brings rewards.
It’s a great pleasure for me that others might get something positive from all our experience (aka mistakes). We have now switched to using a 2 pack hard wax oil - our favourite for performance and price is Natura Onecoat which is becoming more widely available in the US but we in Europe have to wait a little longer. The advantage of 2C is that it cures very quickly and therefore the piece can be moved without fear of damage to the finish plus it dramatically lessens the chances of dust contaminating the surface. The hardener is the more expensive chemical but that cost is nothing to the cost of having to refinish a surface because it got dust on it@@coppulor6500
So, basically a wiping varnish having the second and third coats applied with the grey Scotchbrite. A good, solid finish, for sure. I will give it a try; I have all the ingredients in my shop. Have you used similar materials other than the 3 shown? Mineral spirits vs turpentine? Danish oil? Tung oil? Spar varnish? Have you consulted Bob Flexner's wood finishing bible? Maybe you could expand a bit on your tinkering with finishes and how you arrived at this combination.
Yes, it is nothing more than a wiping varnish. I’ve used MS and danish oil, both work fine as replacements. Spar varnish should work in theory as well.
I remember seeing an interview with Sam Maloof regarding the finish he used on his furniture. I'm not sure of the formula, but one of the ingredients was elbow grease. The heat produced by friction from rubbing the finish into the wood was part of what made his finishing technique what it was. I will most definitely be using your formula in the future. Thanks!
It’s helpful when there are links to products in the description - I’ve been using several types of wax over the years, and currently use Howard’s Feed n Wax which is a Bee’s wax mix. But now plan to pickup a tin of Liberon and give it a go
Excellent video. One quick suggestion: Rather than make your oil-wax topping, which I did for years in a confiscated double boiler, just buy some Mahoney’s Walnut Oil-Wax (oil from twigs and husks, protein free). It’s food safe, does not become rancid, and a nice mix of bees wax and carnauba. I first saw this mix in Wood Magazine as the ideal finish and mix it often. I like your final application though. I made a White Oak Salmon bat/board for plugging herring-about 3” wide and finished it this way, maybe 5 coats in 1987. Last summer, my son who now owns my boat, still has that implement that still looks new in spite of unimaginable abuse and memories.
My one contribution to those who don't want to wait for the beeswax to dissolve into the turp/oil but also are afraid of having it all near an open flame or hot surface needed for a double boiler. Get a sous vide cooker! 1) they're just great to have for cooking, but you can melt even solid beeswax at 140-150F (the liberon is a mix of beeswax and turpentine, the wax i use is similar but mineral spirits). It's still technically above the flash point so not riskless, but far less risky without a ignition source present. All you have to do is throw all three things in a CANNING jar, put it in your bath and set the cooker to 150. I think you could get away with leaving it until the wax dissolves fully, but every 15-20F I crack the jar open to relieve the pressure since there is likely a large volume of air inside. It's probably much safer to leave it closed, since opening the jar would let out some of the vapors which could in theory be ignited by a spark of some kind. Anyways once the wax is fully dissolved, just take it out and it will solidify at room temperature. My mix of Turp/Watco danish oil/Furniture Clinic Beeswax Polish came out perfectly at the crossroads of liquid and solid. It's technically solid, but just the heat from your fingers will melt it which I find is perfect. Maybe it will be an issue in the summer though? I used pint size jars to make about 300mL, but if I did it differently I'd go with jars that are shorter and/or wider as it's hard to reach in the larger jar easily. Ball's "elite wide mouth half-pint" jar looks like the perfect dimensions, but they don't have the graduation on the side for easy mixing...
I didn't want the mineral spirits near the stove, so melted the beeswax in BLO in a glass jar in a sauce pan of water on the stove, then added the MS. Cools to a soft paste that applies easily with a fiber pad.
Dude I cannot thank you enough, I use transtint a lot and that stuff is getting more expensive as I go but to make a toner not only looks better,( I tried your method ) a little goes a long way! Like I said earlier, I can’t thank you enough so the least I could do is subscribe which I did, keep blessing us my friend.
I use to use a lot of oil finishes in the late 70s early 80s and applied wax finishes you can add aniline powders to your mixtures by dissolving the Alnline powders in methyl hydrate first I commonly did this in a double boiler but I also added carnuba wax as it sets up harder and polishes to a luster just food for thought
And here I just found Rubio and used it for the first time, and you come up with something I could easily put together myself. Having used lacquers, polys, and variations thereof, for years, a recent entry table project showed me how to finally achieve that "buttery smoothness" you describe here. I have found, though, that without two coats of Rubio I can't achieve that sheen "just below satin" that I like. Once I use up the (expensive) can of Rubio I bought, I think I shall try your concoction.
@macnylonguitar I wouldn't say it sucks. It has its place, as do most finishes. I actually like the fact it doesn't darken woods such as maple. I would say that Rubio enhances the wood it is applied to. My main issue with it is that certain projects, imo, look better in a satin, or just below, sheen. I think for smaller projects - lamps, boxes and the like - Rubio will work well.
A beautiful finish and a really well done video! Thanks! I’ve always used a finish that has been attributed to Malloy: 1/3 each of polyurethane, linseed oil (or tung oil) and mineral spirits (or turpentine). It’s similar to yours except you use a Danish oil, which is essentially a wiping varnish. So your total resin content is much higher. Have you tried using just linseed oil instead of Danish oil?
I wanted to say thank you, I saw this, and I was using linseed oil for another application (plastic on my vehicle) and it saved me from an uncontrolled fire. The terricloth I used to apply it started on fire the next day when I picked it up. Had I not isolated it knowing ahead of time, if I would have kept it in my shed like everything else, or in my car, it would have burned it up. All I did is pick it up off the driveway and it ignited.
Awesome video: Question; any reason why you lean towards Clear Gloss for the poly instead of a Satin poly? I assume the scotchbrite knocks down any high gloss sheen in the last step but would love to know if there are any additional benefits to a high gloss bottom coat.
Indeed there is a reason! Any “non-gloss” sheen from the manufacturer is dulled with flattening agent-a silica of some kind. And while that flattens the sheen, it dulls and muddies the grain. So I prefer to keep a clearer finish and lower the sheen mechanically through abrasion.
All of the Minwax fast-drying polys are labeled "warm" now, which may have been to address complaints from people expecting a clear coat that doesn't change the color. So I think the warm gloss is the equivalent.
Like most competent craftsmen, there Achilles heel is woodfinishing, its a wet trade and the knowledge required is equal to any craft, and not just the bit at the end, it's took me till 60 years if age to what I consider to be competent in many different materials, and I've been doing it all my working life...
Good informative video. Thanks for sharing your methods. About 30 years ago I was working with an old carpenter who swore by using a brown paper bag at the point where you switch to the scotch-brite pad. I tried it and found it actually does work in a very similar way to your abrasive pad. As with your method, it's not for sanding or leveling (obviously) or anything even close to that. It's really more of a burnishing of the previous coat of finish. These days you never get groceries in anything but plastic but if you ever get your hands on an old fashioned paper grocery bag, try it. It's interesting that it actually works.
Couple additional tips: Unless you are using a very high quality steel wool, probably not a good idea to apply finish with it. I also would suggest adding a little bit of Japan drier to your finish mix to speed the dry time.
@@michaelbradford4444 it’s an additive that accelerates the dry time of oil based finishes. Use sparingly, especially with polyurethane. You can find it at most hardware or big box home centers. I love the stuff.
Really appreciate this video - thanks for doing it. I have a beautiful old dining table with two built-in leaves that needs to be refinished. Taking the old finish off will be the hard part, but this video provides a great idea for the new finish!
You've probably heard this comment before, but I haven't seen it or a response. Essentially, you present your "mixed" finish as a combination of varnish, oil and turpentine (or a thinner). However, the "oil" you use is already a combination of varnish, oil and thinner. So to create your finish, you take the already mixed and thinned varnish and oil and mix it with more varnish and thinner. So the actual ratio of "oil" to your mixture is miniscule. Why not just use pure oil, varnish and thinner, and not pay the exorbitant price for an already diluted product? If you think 1/3 of pure oil is too much, you can use less and still end up with what is the diluted pre-mix that is Liberon. Given your ratio of varnish and thinner to the pre-mix, I imagine the amount of oil is negligible.
Premix stain is too diluted to add color in the 1/3 oil - 1/3 varnish - 1/3 thinner solution. If you want to add color you can use oil-based pigment or mica-powder dissolved in acetone (if you try mixing directly with oil-based varnish it will form globules like oil and vinegar).
An intriguing insight into combinations of typically stand-alone products. Thanks. Your lighting is inadequate to provide good views of the project surface.
My bench was new looking for a short while, I use it a good bit but my wife stacks stuff all over the place in my shop. I have had her helping break it in…. Not by choice lol
Helpful and fun. Linseed oil combines with all sorts of products (shellac for French polishing; beeswax, turpentine, etc.) and experimenting with different techniques can yield great results. Old books and recipes are a great resource, too. I know you don't use stain, but I have made my own with ammonia and black walnuts, rusted iron, and various dyes and pigments. Thank you for sharing.
linseed oil is some really incredible stuff. I think it's really cool you make your own stain in the traditional style. Black walnuts have such a nice earthy look. I'm not sure if they're as stable as the iron though.
Good question. I will find out as they age. I don't do much work for paying customers, but if I did, I would probably go with commercial stains. @@boulderguywhy
@@petermacmillan6756 I mean, that's fair, but most commercial stains are made out of slag from the steel industry and diluted with whatever cheap dye from my understanding. Your little homemade stains might actually be better TBH. Especially the rust stain you make. That will never fade. All the highest quality red stains are made from oxides due to their high stability. I'm too lazy to full on MAKE the pigment, but I like the extra control of mixing the stains myself so I typically opt for those dry pigment's Odies oil sells. I should definitely play around with making my own though.
Just made this with minwax fast drying poly, medium walnut Danish oil, and turpentine. Put some on a piece of Applewood, wow is that pretty. This beginner thanks you!
Very informative! I have tried different oils and finishes but was never happy how my projects turned out. I'm going to try this ingredients and will come back to tell you how it turned out. So far I liked how the finish looks like on this box of yours! beautiful! Thank you for sharing ❤
I haven't gone through your list of videos yet, but I definitely would like to see a video on food safe finishes. I'm about to do a red pine countertop and I'm hesitating between poly (foodsafe only once cure fir a number of weeks) and hardwax. Thanks!
Fantastic vid, @encurtis! I'm using your recipe (1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 MS, 1/3 Polyurethane) to finish a flame maple tabletop. Just applied the final Scotchbrite coat and tomorrow, I'll whip up some beeswax / MS / boiled linseed oil and add / wipe coat #1. It's just insane how brilliantly the chatoyance in the flame maple is popping. Thanks for the help!
Yonks ago, when I was learning cabinet making, the finish I was introduced to was Turpentine, linseed oil, and beeswax. We used to make a mix that was like a soft butter. Also, we would occasionally try to put a dab on someone's nose, just for fun! It was wicked! The pong of the turpentine used to soak into the skin, and it stayed for hours! .
Brewing up some strong tea and using it as a stain before applying the finish brings out the natural grain of wood. Different kinds of tea result in different shades. It is worth trying.
I never ever considered that a day would come where I would watch hours of videos solely about finishing wood...
Same.
proof that you are nearing the beginning of the end... until such time that you learn that some of the original "basics" are now drawn into question.... in short, this is a never-ending rat hole... LOL
bruh
i've seen loads now. some of them have naked ladies in them too. that finished my wood.
Amen
I am a 75 year old retired grandmother looking for a hobby. I watched UA-cam videos of furniture flippers, thinking I might try refinishing furniture. That took a year and then I refinished a desk for my daughter-in-law. It took time and I enjoyed working with my 7 year old grandson as he liked helping grandma. All went well until it was time for the finish. I used a pre stain, then a stain and then polyurethane. I did not like the results. Everyone else liked it, including my daughter-in-law. She uses the desk and is appreciative. That was 6 months ago and I decided not to take on another project until I could educate myself on finishes. Back to UA-cam for another few months and then I watched this video. I knew this was what I had been looking for., a genius concoction. A few days later I purchased two dressers, a night stand and side table from an auction house. I completed the side table and love it. The finish is unbelievable. I am so happy. I enjoy working with wood and consider each piece a work of art. My projects aren't perfect, but I am learning. I cannot thank you enough for sharing this information and giving me this opportunity. I would like to send you a photo of my completed project, but don't know how to attach a photo.
I am 70 year old granny and 3 years in to woodworking. I build furniture and even though it may take me a long time to complete a table or bed, it is so fun to do. I will be using this finish for the first time on a walnut bed I am building for my daughter. Fingers crossed.
I am now in my late 70s. My great uncle was a fine cabinetmaker from the 1920s into the 1970s. I spent uncounted hours in his shop as a kid. One of my jobs was to measure the mix he used for all of his finish word - a 50/50 mix of Linseed Oil and Turpentine. This sounds like an update of that recipe. The final step was a coating of paste was and elbow grease. This video brought back those memories.
50/50 is old school! You can build a great finish that way, but it takes many applications and a lot of evaporation. I bet a lot of your uncle's work still looks great.
WOOD, not WORD.
Maybe WORK, not WORD or WOOD @@mjremy2605
maybe "work" not wood? @@mjremy2605
@@mjremy2605 Word🤘
Working with wood - turning a piece of wood into something that is not only beautiful but has a sustainable economic value for practical use in our daily lives - is in my humble opinion - a way more complex topic than I ever imagined. The more I learn about "wood" and how to treat wood - the more I get frustrated about how little I know.
This is by far the best and easiest finish I have ever used. I normally ruin (in my mind) the pieces I have built until I used this. Super easy to make and use. Thank you for sharing.
I like the simplicity of your method which tight-pored woods like hard maple look beautiful. Years ago I built a period-correct longrifle out of a red maple stock blank with a beautiful curl. I used the period-correct stain of a dangerous combination of 18-molar nitric acid, water and a ball of steel wool. My mixture was 4 parts water to one part acid AND ALWAYS POUR THE ACID INTO THE WATER! Wearing both safety googles and a face shield I added the water. Taking the mixture outside and pointing away from my face, I put the entire steel wool ball in the solution.
It flashed off instantly and left me a beautiful reddish-brown stain. The process requires all smoothing prior to application of the stain - NO STEEL WOOL, or the acid and steel fibers will make "freckles" in the finish. After drying overnight, I flashed off the stain with a propane torch with low flame and light passes. Funny, it looked like a rusty rifle, LOL. Then was the time for steel wool and final smoothing. After a once-over with a tack cloth, I began applying boiled linseed oil. I applied 20 coats, rubbing vigorously after each coat was dry. The end result was deep-rubbed luster and prominent display of the wood's curl. Beautiful.
I first came across the poly blend about 1993. It was Sam Maloof’s blend. I’ve used it on many projects, from furniture to kitchen cabinets. It is very durable. It is easy to apply. But yeah, if you want to last, you do have to wait in between coats.
I came here to say this also, if it's good enough for Sam, it's good enough for me. The only difference I remember with Sam Maloof was that he would wipe the wood clean until no residue was left on the rag immediately after applying the oil. I've followed this with great results for years.
Apologies if this is a stupid question, the poly blend is the recipe in this video or another recipe?
@@mongreldesigns9195 Evidently the poly is used in the Step 1 finish, then replaced with beeswax for Step 2.
Would you recommend this for a tabletop? Is it durable enough?
Wow. Thank you so much for this. I tested this out previously and just finished my first mantle with it. This looks amazing and I’m quite proud of the results. Super high end piece that I made in my driveway that’ll be the center of my home for the next 50 years. Pretty cool
I’m half way through this technique on some sweet chestnut and so far it’s looking amazing! Thank you for this. I’ve messed around with various finishes using oils and wax and this is the best
I made a couple of mahogany winding sticks and used this finish as directed. The finish is amazing. You can increase the shine by polishing with a few coats of beeswax and there is no build up, just an amazing finish. I will definitely use this method again, brill..........
I love this idea of an oil/wax finish aesthetic with a dose of poly durability! This is a must try.
It’s awesome to see from one wood worker to another seeing the different finishing materials and techniques.
I will definitely be trying this on smaller projects.
Im just starting out on my journey with turning wood and ive been baffled by which finish to use, never occurred to me to blend them! Thank you my man!
Absolutely love this finish!!!! Like silk on a piece of wood, I definitely didn’t want to hide any of the character of the wood under a glossy or glassy finish.So easy to apply, with few elements to worry about…time, temperature and dust free environment. Thanks so much for this simple process and finish. I will use it many times in the near future
Well done! Thanks for sharing the fire hazard concerns of these products. I am a F/F and I have extinguished the fires related to this issue.
Wow! Way cool! Thanks! I have “tinkered” with woodworking for most of my 73 years on this Earth. The one thing that I have always just despised is finishes. I just hate it. This is pretty darned simple and looks great. I’m stealing it!
You are SO INSPIRATIONAL for me. A professionally schooled artist, small business owner, deciding what’s next after 18 years…
Man I’ll tell you. I decided to try this finish on a lil something I made for a friend and I almost don’t want to give it to her it’s so perfect. Very nice video bro
Thank you for sharing...will give this a try...but more importantly...thanks for the use of "chatoyance"! Fantastic!
My immature mind could not make it through these 9 minutes without cackling with laughter. Someone with some editing skills needs to jump in here and give these innuendos the ‘big finish’ they deserve! Love your work Eric and love watching your videos!
Erik thank you for taking the time to share your hard gained experience with us. 👍
Thank you for taking the time to watch 🙏
Excellent info, thanks. When I was in boat school we did some simple projects like a tool box, and the go-to finish was three coats of Daly's Seafin Teak Oil, wet sanded to 400, then a final wax buff with #0000 steel wool. I tried simplifying it to Watco Danish Oil, but still wasn't pleased with the results for my sculptural art boxes. I realized after viewing this vid that you simply cannot get away from a great finish taking days, it's as simple as that, and you have to make allowances accordingly. Anyway, I followed your suggestion herein, more than pleased. Thanks again.
As a new woodworker, dust collection and learning about spontaneous combustion ( which i thought were myths) have probably been the best safety measures ive learned. I think actual blades come in second. Lets keep spreading the word on the combustion issue, as it would be a horrible nightmare for someone to burn down their shop or home,due to something some ppl would never have thought was possible.
There is an idea called "spontaneous human combustion" about humans spontaneously burning, and this is a myth. It mostly comes from prople passing out (due to alcohol or a serious medical health event of some sort) while smoking, and the burnt remains often have no visible or testable evidence of how the fire started or why the person didn't wake up from the heat.
However, spontaneous combustion due to a slow exothermic chemical reaction in the right conditions is very real. A bunch of rags in a pile soaked in anything that "cures" can be the right conditions.
ua-cam.com/video/3Gqi2cNCKQY/v-deo.html
I too thought combusting oily rags was a myth from shop class movies at school. BUT, I saw it with my own eyes one hot summer day. My dad put some oily rags in a trash can on his just finished deck. It was a big can and in direct sunlight. 20 mins later I saw the smoke coming from the can. Luckily, I saw it before it burned down the house. Never treated finish rags the same since.
In college I rented an old farmhouse. The landlord lived in a new mobile home and worked antique furniture in his shop. My truck was parked in front of the south window of the shop. I was leaving for class , or work, about 2pm and saw flames about halfway up that south facing window. I ran to his trailer and he and I went in with a garden hose. I sprayed the fire while he was furiously trying to save some special pieces out the back door. What happened was his finish rags in a trash can were in the direct path of sunlight through the window. Spontaneous combustion for sure. Ultimately I was going in and out with the hose due to smoke until the rural fire guys showed up. Lots of water damage once they got going. To this day my rags go outside as soon as I am done with them.
@@ksmith8019 You don't need sunlight. Bourbon moth has a video showing how fast various chemicals can combust.
Just want to say, used this to finish my first project and it came out gorgeous. Used tung oil and wax I found off Amazon and I'm happy. Thanks!
Finishing is the most complicated part of woodworking. Thank you
I find that starting, and not finishing, is the most complicated part of woodworking.
Thank you, my friend. Made a big difference in putting a beautiful crowning touch on a large sculptural piece I've been working on for the past 6 months
Thanks for sharing this. I’ve been struggling to figure out the “buttery finish” that I love about things like Rubio or odies, but wanting the sturdiness of a poly. Looks like you’ve nailed exactly what I’ve been scratching my head about.
You are so welcome!
Poly isn't really any more sturdy than a good hardwax oil, in fact, it's often less sturdy. Urethane bonds have inferior chemical resistance. They degrade over time. hilariously enough, one of the products you mentions actually IS a urethane. Rubio monocoat turns into polyurethane when you mix the part two in. The second part is an isocyanate reactant, not a catalyst. It's there to form urethane bonds with the linseed oil creating polyurethane. The resulting finish is prone to the same decay as poly because it is poly. To get a real hardwax oil finish out of rubio you'd have to drop the part two, which might be doable but i don't think they recommend it.
@@boulderguywhy How much time does it take for ply to degrade? I have reclaimed barn furniture that I built 20 some years ago and it still looks as good as the day I finish coated it.
Also as a side curiosity, I never understood why anyone would have much trouble getting that "buttery" finish, when just about any varnish, tung/danish oil can produce it, so long as it's sanded and polished properly. I sometimes suspect the reason everyone loves it so much is because a high mirror like sheen can be so difficult to achieve, therefor it's just easier to love the satin finish 🤔
This guys channel is one of the best. 'This guy' said with the upmost respect. I am employing this recipe and method and so far it's fantastic.
Very cool. Love to see the techniques that the pros have perfected for their use. I marvel at the different pros different prefferred methods; the common demoninator seems to be that they use quility products, avoid shortcuts and invest the adequate time and effort plus the years of trial and error it takes to master something. I personally like to spray laquers and 2-part polys, but then again, I have years invested in the technique so it works really well for me. I will try this!
Thank you for the finish recipes.
I also fell in love with this box.
I've made a few like it since taking full inspiration from you.
Really took my skills up a notch.
Your my idol among all woodworkers.
I’ve referred back to the finishing tips in your Insta stories many times-love having this info as a video. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
Used this formula for 2 side tables made from Cherry. I use BLO instead of his finishing oil, at 2 parts oil, 1 part Poly, and 1 part Thinner. The key to success is to keep the coats thin, and wipe off any excess about 5 minutes after applying.
I’m using this finish process on a black limba bass guitar body. So far I’ve done the first two coats. It’s looking really good.
can you show photos here or is there a link? Thanks!
Thank you for keeping it simple both in application and explanation, I've been refinishing for 45years and have applied about every type of finish, and I most enjoy "simple" KISS (keep it simple saints). Nice Work!
Been trying different finishes staying away from polys and I'm thinking you may have my solution with your ingenious mix. Also , storing in a jar seems a much better way than the leak prone cans seem to be . Thank you sincerely for sharing that!
Just finished a project with your finish recipe I must say it's awesome thank you so much for your video's love them all When you go back to the school in Maine this summer say hi to my daughter in law Joanne she works in the office
I’m a changed man. Will go out and buy the ingredients today. Thanks!
Hope you enjoy!
I just tried this finish method and…. Wow. Super easy, consistent and easy to fix.
My favorite finish has become 50/50 Tung Oil/Orange Solvent. It’s a food safe finish that has provides good protection and is easy to maintain. Plus, it makes my workshop smell like oranges.
Great idea, were did you get your orange solvent?
Loved the video!! Would you use this for butcher block countertops? Thanks
Thanks. You just saved me about a grand on a HVLP system. I'm just a hobbyist not concerned with mass production, but I do have the goal of achieving a quality finish on my projects. I'll try your method on the next one. Thanks for posting. Mark
Certainly give it a try before spending that kind of cheddar. Maybe it's not for you, but it's worth the experiment at least!
Bourbonmoth has a great UA-cam video on spontaneous combustion. Eye opening an informative. Highly recommend watching it.
Thank you especially for demonstrating with a small project. I'm a beginner woodworker and my primary interest is keepsake boxes much like your example. I've struggled with applying finish, and then smudging it as I handle the box to work on the adjacent sides. It's clear from the video that your method eliminates any concern about that. I'm definitely going to try it.
I love the fact you’re sanding while adding the next coat. Perfect!
Just completed my first actual fine woodworking project. I made a keepsake box with hand cut dovetails. There were issues with the joinery, fitting the base, and the lid, however I used your method for finish and that part turned out great. Thank you!
Well that is exactly what I’ve been looking for to compare with my normal method - this wins hands down! It is fairly time consuming for larger items like desks though! Super video, I love the easy repair aspect, as clients always do something to the finish that needs a small touch up in a few years.
Applying with the scotch pad on the last coat is a great idea and tip. Thank you for sharing!
I would love to see a video on how you finish cutting boards. This was excellent and I will be using this going forward. Do you have a timeframe on how long this mix lasts after you make a batch?
You have saved me, I don't know how many headaches! This is so great! I followed your instructions and just applied the first coat to a table I recently made. It was so easy. THANK YOU!
I love to hear that! You’re very welcome!
Thanks for great video! Could you provide more information about the mixture of bee wax with oil and turpentine? I followed the instructions from a video, but the mixture seems too fluid even though the wax has melted with the other ingredients.
I would like an idea of the amounts used as well is it two scoops then fill the quart jar with equal amounts of the turpentine and oil?
I’m having the same issue. I’ve added more wax and it is still a fluid instead of a “thin wax” have you been able to get some different results?
By far, this is the best method I've seen....
Very interesting - don’t disagree with any of it. When making large pieces commercially, I think the time/effect balance wouldn’t allow for all these coats and waiting time - but for smaller, very high end pieces, that balance doesn’t really matter. When making tables for instance, we used to go halfway between your solution and just something like Osmo. We would apply 2 coats of Osmo and then thinned wax (I would suggest buying beeswax in blocks and thinning it yourself) scrubbed in with a scotch pad. We got the durability of hard wax/oil; that buttery smoothness of wax plus the ability to easily refinish years down the line.
In summary, the industry that makes finishes would love you to believe it is either all very complex - or that a one simple coat of magic solves everything. Neither is true in my experience. Time and effort brings rewards.
Comments from experienced people weighing in is gold for us starting to get into learning finishes and the fuster cluck of a situation it is.
It’s a great pleasure for me that others might get something positive from all our experience (aka mistakes). We have now switched to using a 2 pack hard wax oil - our favourite for performance and price is Natura Onecoat which is becoming more widely available in the US but we in Europe have to wait a little longer. The advantage of 2C is that it cures very quickly and therefore the piece can be moved without fear of damage to the finish plus it dramatically lessens the chances of dust contaminating the surface. The hardener is the more expensive chemical but that cost is nothing to the cost of having to refinish a surface because it got dust on it@@coppulor6500
My old business partner had his garage burn down even when rags where safety spread out. After that we used a bucket with water.
So, basically a wiping varnish having the second and third coats applied with the grey Scotchbrite. A good, solid finish, for sure. I will give it a try; I have all the ingredients in my shop.
Have you used similar materials other than the 3 shown? Mineral spirits vs turpentine? Danish oil? Tung oil? Spar varnish?
Have you consulted Bob Flexner's wood finishing bible? Maybe you could expand a bit on your tinkering with finishes and how you arrived at this combination.
Yes, it is nothing more than a wiping varnish. I’ve used MS and danish oil, both work fine as replacements. Spar varnish should work in theory as well.
I remember seeing an interview with Sam Maloof regarding the finish he used on his furniture. I'm not sure of the formula, but one of the ingredients was elbow grease. The heat produced by friction from rubbing the finish into the wood was part of what made his finishing technique what it was. I will most definitely be using your formula in the future. Thanks!
It’s helpful when there are links to products in the description - I’ve been using several types of wax over the years, and currently use Howard’s Feed n Wax which is a Bee’s wax mix. But now plan to pickup a tin of Liberon and give it a go
Excellent video. One quick suggestion: Rather than make your oil-wax topping, which I did for years in a confiscated double boiler, just buy some Mahoney’s Walnut Oil-Wax (oil from twigs and husks, protein free). It’s food safe, does not become rancid, and a nice mix of bees wax and carnauba. I first saw this mix in Wood Magazine as the ideal finish and mix it often. I like your final application though. I made a White Oak Salmon bat/board for plugging herring-about 3” wide and finished it this way, maybe 5 coats in 1987. Last summer, my son who now owns my boat, still has that implement that still looks new in spite of unimaginable abuse and memories.
My one contribution to those who don't want to wait for the beeswax to dissolve into the turp/oil but also are afraid of having it all near an open flame or hot surface needed for a double boiler.
Get a sous vide cooker! 1) they're just great to have for cooking, but you can melt even solid beeswax at 140-150F (the liberon is a mix of beeswax and turpentine, the wax i use is similar but mineral spirits). It's still technically above the flash point so not riskless, but far less risky without a ignition source present.
All you have to do is throw all three things in a CANNING jar, put it in your bath and set the cooker to 150. I think you could get away with leaving it until the wax dissolves fully, but every 15-20F I crack the jar open to relieve the pressure since there is likely a large volume of air inside. It's probably much safer to leave it closed, since opening the jar would let out some of the vapors which could in theory be ignited by a spark of some kind. Anyways once the wax is fully dissolved, just take it out and it will solidify at room temperature. My mix of Turp/Watco danish oil/Furniture Clinic Beeswax Polish came out perfectly at the crossroads of liquid and solid. It's technically solid, but just the heat from your fingers will melt it which I find is perfect. Maybe it will be an issue in the summer though?
I used pint size jars to make about 300mL, but if I did it differently I'd go with jars that are shorter and/or wider as it's hard to reach in the larger jar easily. Ball's "elite wide mouth half-pint" jar looks like the perfect dimensions, but they don't have the graduation on the side for easy mixing...
I didn't want the mineral spirits near the stove, so melted the beeswax in BLO in a glass jar in a sauce pan of water on the stove, then added the MS. Cools to a soft paste that applies easily with a fiber pad.
Dude I cannot thank you enough, I use transtint a lot and that stuff is getting more expensive as I go but to make a toner not only looks better,( I tried your method ) a little goes a long way! Like I said earlier, I can’t thank you enough so the least I could do is subscribe which I did, keep blessing us my friend.
I use to use a lot of oil finishes in the late 70s early 80s and applied wax finishes you can add aniline powders to your mixtures by dissolving the Alnline powders in methyl hydrate first I commonly did this in a double boiler but I also added carnuba wax as it sets up harder and polishes to a luster just food for thought
Great tip. Thanks for sharing
And here I just found Rubio and used it for the first time, and you come up with something I could easily put together myself. Having used lacquers, polys, and variations thereof, for years, a recent entry table project showed me how to finally achieve that "buttery smoothness" you describe here. I have found, though, that without two coats of Rubio I can't achieve that sheen "just below satin" that I like. Once I use up the (expensive) can of Rubio I bought, I think I shall try your concoction.
@macnylonguitar I wouldn't say it sucks. It has its place, as do most finishes. I actually like the fact it doesn't darken woods such as maple. I would say that Rubio enhances the wood it is applied to. My main issue with it is that certain projects, imo, look better in a satin, or just below, sheen. I think for smaller projects - lamps, boxes and the like - Rubio will work well.
A beautiful finish and a really well done video! Thanks! I’ve always used a finish that has been attributed to Malloy: 1/3 each of polyurethane, linseed oil (or tung oil) and mineral spirits (or turpentine). It’s similar to yours except you use a Danish oil, which is essentially a wiping varnish. So your total resin content is much higher. Have you tried using just linseed oil instead of Danish oil?
I would be interested in seeing a comparison -Do you think there would be much of a difference?
I use it right now on my oak and Walnut tv stand and i love it!!!!!! Easy too use and the finish is perfect
Love to hear that!!
@@ENCurtis mine is more Milky than yours.... I used waterbased Poly and antique oil from winwax and turpentine
Question, if a piece gets a ding or scrape that you want to repair after being in use for a while, what is your repair/refinish procedure? Thanks!
Wow!! Super cool! Can’t wait to try it on my Walnut Speaker Cabinets!
Absolutely brilliant! Thanks for sharing!
I wanted to say thank you, I saw this, and I was using linseed oil for another application (plastic on my vehicle) and it saved me from an uncontrolled fire. The terricloth I used to apply it started on fire the next day when I picked it up. Had I not isolated it knowing ahead of time, if I would have kept it in my shed like everything else, or in my car, it would have burned it up. All I did is pick it up off the driveway and it ignited.
Can you substitute mineral spirits for the turpentine? Thanks for sharing your elixir!
Thin with turpentine and nitro cellulose/lacquer with mineral spirits.
Sure can. MS and turp are interchangeable in this case.
@@ENCurtis Thanks
Yes on the spontaneous combustion, it happens in restaurants all the time, with their rags. Glad you mentioned that.
Beautiful! A few questions: 1. What did you sand to? 2. Is there any stain in the top?
320g generally. And no there is no stain on it.
Had to go through 5 people at home Depot to find bees wax for wood finishing, the first one thought I was insane lol. Thank you for this tutorial!!!
Awesome video: Question; any reason why you lean towards Clear Gloss for the poly instead of a Satin poly? I assume the scotchbrite knocks down any high gloss sheen in the last step but would love to know if there are any additional benefits to a high gloss bottom coat.
Indeed there is a reason! Any “non-gloss” sheen from the manufacturer is dulled with flattening agent-a silica of some kind. And while that flattens the sheen, it dulls and muddies the grain. So I prefer to keep a clearer finish and lower the sheen mechanically through abrasion.
Glad I read this… this miniwax Amazon links to warm semigloss for me.
Am not able to find miniwax clear gloss anywhere! Will warm gloss suffice? That’s what Lowe’s has now
I was wondering the same thing.
All of the Minwax fast-drying polys are labeled "warm" now, which may have been to address complaints from people expecting a clear coat that doesn't change the color. So I think the warm gloss is the equivalent.
Like most competent craftsmen, there Achilles heel is woodfinishing, its a wet trade and the knowledge required is equal to any craft, and not just the bit at the end, it's took me till 60 years if age to what I consider to be competent in many different materials, and I've been doing it all my working life...
please do a food safe one, this was incredibly helpful
I’m glad to hear that! I will try to do so in the near future.
I'm also interested in a food safe finish. This one looks great though and I'm thinking of giving it a try. Thanks for sharing!
Good informative video. Thanks for sharing your methods.
About 30 years ago I was working with an old carpenter who swore by using a brown paper bag at the point where you switch to the scotch-brite pad. I tried it and found it actually does work in a very similar way to your abrasive pad. As with your method, it's not for sanding or leveling (obviously) or anything even close to that. It's really more of a burnishing of the previous coat of finish. These days you never get groceries in anything but plastic but if you ever get your hands on an old fashioned paper grocery bag, try it. It's interesting that it actually works.
Hi, how long would the mixed up finishes last in the jar?
Iove this finish but it doesn't last too long in the jar. It starts to get sticky after a few weeks.
I just used this finishing method on a project, and it’s the best finish I’ve ever gotten, so thank you for the advice.
Couple additional tips: Unless you are using a very high quality steel wool, probably not a good idea to apply finish with it. I also would suggest adding a little bit of Japan drier to your finish mix to speed the dry time.
Japan drier ? What is it and where can I find .
@@michaelbradford4444 it’s an additive that accelerates the dry time of oil based finishes. Use sparingly, especially with polyurethane. You can find it at most hardware or big box home centers. I love the stuff.
@@dalleger I'm gonna look for it today, TY!
This has been my only finish. When you build a piece that looks good AND feels good, it!'s so satisfying.
Really appreciate this video - thanks for doing it. I have a beautiful old dining table with two built-in leaves that needs to be refinished. Taking the old finish off will be the hard part, but this video provides a great idea for the new finish!
Glad it was helpful!
Food safe finish video would be wonderful! Thanks for all you do!!!
You've probably heard this comment before, but I haven't seen it or a response. Essentially, you present your "mixed" finish as a combination of varnish, oil and turpentine (or a thinner). However, the "oil" you use is already a combination of varnish, oil and thinner. So to create your finish, you take the already mixed and thinned varnish and oil and mix it with more varnish and thinner. So the actual ratio of "oil" to your mixture is miniscule. Why not just use pure oil, varnish and thinner, and not pay the exorbitant price for an already diluted product? If you think 1/3 of pure oil is too much, you can use less and still end up with what is the diluted pre-mix that is Liberon. Given your ratio of varnish and thinner to the pre-mix, I imagine the amount of oil is negligible.
What about adding a few drops of stain to add some color ??
Premix stain is too diluted to add color in the 1/3 oil - 1/3 varnish - 1/3 thinner solution. If you want to add color you can use oil-based pigment or mica-powder dissolved in acetone (if you try mixing directly with oil-based varnish it will form globules like oil and vinegar).
An intriguing insight into combinations of typically stand-alone products. Thanks.
Your lighting is inadequate to provide good views of the project surface.
Your work bench looks like you’ve never actually used it
Hah! I was thinking he’s never stained anything on that bench. 🤣🤣
Sick burn
Actually, he does. At 2:02 he uses it when applying the finish on the off cut 🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪
My bench was new looking for a short while, I use it a good bit but my wife stacks stuff all over the place in my shop. I have had her helping break it in…. Not by choice lol
Mine has 1000 beer can ring stains
Going to try this on custom walnut coasters today. Thanks for all you do! I would be very excited to see a food safe finish video!
Helpful and fun. Linseed oil combines with all sorts of products (shellac for French polishing; beeswax, turpentine, etc.) and experimenting with different techniques can yield great results. Old books and recipes are a great resource, too. I know you don't use stain, but I have made my own with ammonia and black walnuts, rusted iron, and various dyes and pigments. Thank you for sharing.
linseed oil is some really incredible stuff. I think it's really cool you make your own stain in the traditional style. Black walnuts have such a nice earthy look. I'm not sure if they're as stable as the iron though.
Good question. I will find out as they age. I don't do much work for paying customers, but if I did, I would probably go with commercial stains. @@boulderguywhy
@@petermacmillan6756 I mean, that's fair, but most commercial stains are made out of slag from the steel industry and diluted with whatever cheap dye from my understanding. Your little homemade stains might actually be better TBH. Especially the rust stain you make. That will never fade. All the highest quality red stains are made from oxides due to their high stability. I'm too lazy to full on MAKE the pigment, but I like the extra control of mixing the stains myself so I typically opt for those dry pigment's Odies oil sells. I should definitely play around with making my own though.
Just made this with minwax fast drying poly, medium walnut Danish oil, and turpentine. Put some on a piece of Applewood, wow is that pretty. This beginner thanks you!
Very informative! I have tried different oils and finishes but was never happy how my projects turned out. I'm going to try this ingredients and will come back to tell you how it turned out. So far I liked how the finish looks like on this box of yours! beautiful! Thank you for sharing ❤
I haven't gone through your list of videos yet, but I definitely would like to see a video on food safe finishes. I'm about to do a red pine countertop and I'm hesitating between poly (foodsafe only once cure fir a number of weeks) and hardwax. Thanks!
Never even stepped foot in a wood shop or anything but I watched the whole darn video and enjoyed it lol
Fantastic vid, @encurtis! I'm using your recipe (1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 MS, 1/3 Polyurethane) to finish a flame maple tabletop. Just applied the final Scotchbrite coat and tomorrow, I'll whip up some beeswax / MS / boiled linseed oil and add / wipe coat #1. It's just insane how brilliantly the chatoyance in the flame maple is popping. Thanks for the help!
Yonks ago, when I was learning cabinet making, the finish I was introduced to was Turpentine, linseed oil, and beeswax.
We used to make a mix that was like a soft butter.
Also, we would occasionally try to put a dab on someone's nose, just for fun!
It was wicked!
The pong of the turpentine used to soak into the skin, and it stayed for hours!
.
Wtf is pong?
This mixture looks interesting. But what turned the light bulb on above my head was using the scotch pad to apply a finish. Simply brilliant.
Wow. Thats pretty cool. The durability and sheen of Poly with the warmth of Seed Oil. Definitely on my list of finishes to try, thanks!
Brewing up some strong tea and using it as a stain before applying the finish brings out the natural grain of wood. Different kinds of tea result in different shades. It is worth trying.
I buy the wipe on poly because it's thinned for you. Then I add an oil, usually Tung. The poly helps it dry faster too.
Love the video, right down to the t-shirt... If that shirt does not tell the story of a true maker, nothing ever will...
I finished a gun rack with Crisco vegetable oil fifty years ago. Worked great.
I have always used Dana Robes blend and tried your last step on some urns I made
Turned out fantastic,much easier than buffing wax coat,thanks Dan
that's life saving mix you have there sir!
thank you
OK watched it 3 times so I don't forget. Gonna try this method for the car room bench.