It's a long video. Let me help! 00:00 - Intro 00:24 - How to Apply Tung Oil w/ Citrus Solvent 02:43 - Applying Pure Tung Oil 03:33 - Is this the only way? 04:01 - The Flooding Method 06:17 - Why is Flooding Problematic? 09:38 - My new Guild course! - thewoodwhispererguild.com/product/criss-cross-dining-table-bench/ 10:29 - Demonstrating Curing Problems 15:47 - Water Absorption Test 20:27 - Why do companies recommend the flooding method?
Thanks for the tips, Marc! I find myself using a fair amount of oil and varnish blends like watco danish oil and similar things (not on cutting boards, but other knick-knack type projects) and I’m curious if your advice would be the same for those types of finishes?
Years ago I think there was a treatment for wood before you put the finish on that was supposed to close the pores of the wood so it didn't soak up finish so bad. Is that a thing? Do we not do that now?
Have put tung oil 5 times. before wiping. Each time I apply oil, l decrease time before wiping because it's always sticky. With 320 grit in between. Last coat was 5min before wiping . Still sticky. Help!
@@jack002tuber i tried to seal wood with thinned waterbased sanding sealer before laying natural wood oil. Seems to be working just fine. I made sure the 1st layer already dried up, before laying down the oil.
I think that your explanations were accurate. I have been applying finishes for more than 35 years and have tried many different materials with many different application techniques. Here’s what I’ve learned: 1. Unless the finish is self-polymerizing (two part finishes or loaded with drying agents) thin coats are always better, in the majority of cases a diluted thin first layer is best. 2. Cure time is crucial, period. The finish is the final step of craftsmanship, and you need to be prepared to “finish” the finish. Rush through this stage and your perfect joinery and meticulous wood selection and preparation will simply look like crapmanship instead of craftsmanship.
Hi mmgross. How would you recommend going about applying a Waterlox tung oil finish to antique heart pine ceiling joists? The joists are "rough sawn" original and I don't intend to hand plane or sand, as I've already used a sandblaster to remove some of the patina, revealing clean wood underneith but also resulting in a rough texture. My thought is to first deep clean, first with air compressor and then with a wire brush dipped in mineral spirits. Then, I would apply thinned-out Waterlox tung oil via a ROLLER, being a bit aggressive to make sure I get full coverage but then coming back a few minutes after initial application and wiping away excess with rags (or even with a "dry roller"?). After waiting a day or two I would come back and scuff sand a touch to knock-down the first coat, then repeat the process albeit maybe not being so aggressive with my roller application on coats 2 and 3. Do you think I've got this right? What would you recommend? Thank you for your time!
@@HighRPMCreationslike so many of my home projects, i haven't gotten to this yet. Lol. I was also hoping mmgross (or others) would chime in and offer feedback on my plan.
Maybe or maybe they’re still of the mindset that the more oil we can get into the pours the better our wood will be sealed. But maybe it is about driving sales. They don’t tell you to flood with urethanes or something like that, even TruOil doesn’t tell you to flood it.
There is absolutely no doubt that your videos are the gold standard for how UA-cam videos should be done. Been watching you for years and am never disappointed. Oh, and keep adding the outtakes, love em.
Thank you for making this video. I have probably seen around 30 to 40 other videos like this trying to learn as much as I can, but the simple approach that you discussed, and the explanation of the oil going into the pores, is worth more than all of the knowledge I gained from all the other videos combined. Thanks a bunch!
Same is here, I’m not doing a cutting board, I was looking something like that for my axe handle, for axe handles is different i will want my axe handle absorbed as much oil as possible, for the outdoor weather, I think I will soaking and submerge my new axe in linseeds oil overnight so the oil will go into all the pores then I can wax the handle
This is such valuable content. I really appreciate your scientific approach to woodworking. Shows that you can’t always blindly trust manufacturers or conventional wisdom!
I had always used Salad Bowl Finish from GF for cuttingboards until I made one for a cousin. My can was too old so I had to use pure tung oil. I flooded it on like the directions said, then wiped it off. A year later, it was still leaching oil out. Finally it stopped and I tried this light method. MUCH better! Been woodworking for 12 years, and still learning new things. Thanks Marc!
Perfect Timing! I just put on a flood coat of Walrus Tung Oil. Then I sat down to watch your video… I went back out, wiped off the excess, and then rubbed the remaining oil into the surface.
I’m only about 10 minutes in but already I’ve learned some stuff / realized the reason behind some things I know but didn’t understand. Finishing is my Achilles heel for sure and I love that you don’t just expect us to take your word for it, you back it up with evidence and testing.
Thanks for this video. I have been doing woodworking for nearly 1/2 century and have always liked oil finishes. You realized the advantages of thin coats versus flooding in way less time than it took me. Haha. Thanks for validating my own findings. I like a couple thin coats of tung oil/mineral spirits, allow a week to cure, then do Briwax applied with 0000 steel wool and buffed to a nice flat sheen.
Rags rock. Finish expert and author Michael Dresdner said ANY finish can be applied/wiped on with rags. Since hearing him say that over 20 years ago probably, I use rags for almost everything including paint! When I'm done with paint it goes in the garbage, but I use old, dried oil finish rags and ones with polyurethane and other clear finishes to help start the wood stove! :-)
This is exactly where I went wrong after your previous video about finishing. I followed the tung oil manufacturer’s directions for flood coats and left plenty of time for curing only to come back to white patches of cured oil. Was about to give up on tung oil/citrus oil mix but will try the thin coat method. Thanks Marc!
Same here. I actually have a friend who did multiple boards using the manufacturers instructions, now he has white speckled boards… Would also love to know if it’s salvageable. Asking to help my friend of course.
@sebasss01 I took all of "my friends'" boards and gave them a light sanding with 320 grit and rubbed in a very thin amount of oil/solvent and they seem to be fine now.
I’m just going to try your method. I was about to do the flooding technique. Not now. Thank goodness I found your video. I think you have explained the reasoning so clearly. Great job. Thanks.
Thank you - I appreciate the value of your experience combined with the common sense I find necessary in my (personal) approach to all projects/problem solving situations.
I moved away from the soak or flood method a while back, just from seeing how the board was curing. Part of that was my discovery of mineral oil never curing. I moved to Mahoney's Walnut Oil and I just wipe it on now. Good video!
Great video. The manufacturers of most pure tung oil say to flood and leave like you said. Your method is spot on! The flood and leave takes a loooong time to cure.
Great vid, very thorough. I know it’s been done to death, but would love to see your take on the latest craze of hard wax oils. E.g. Rubio, Osmo, Odies’s, Nano ceramics. Including amount of time to apply, dry, cure; level of gloss, durability and repair.
This whole ceramics thing is legit. And it's simple, hence why black forest did it, and Cam was pushing it then all of a sudden had his own brand lol. I'm 99% sure you can just use a general car wax ceramic coat. I like these guys, but it's too product heavy it makes me cringe. "This is a pencil, I didn't invent it or anything, you can buy this one from the links in description" I've stopped watching him for now because it makes me cringe how he says I didn't invent it for every single cool technique thats been around for 100 years, and how every single time he uses a product he makes sure he gets a sponsorship before he posts the video. It's cringe. I grt it, but it's taking the craft out of it for me and becoming one long commercial
Marc mentioned recently on a wood talk how these hard wax oils with additional protection on them (ceramic coating) are taking away the entire purpose of the HWO’s in the first place which is ease of application and less steps than a traditional polyurethane. It really is a great point. I mean they don’t offer enough protection in the first place.
@Sam Wanamaker Agreed. The advantage of HWO is ease of application, and done properly, it's pretty damn tough. Even so, one great advantage is the ability to spot-repair if the surface takes damage. The ceramic adds considerable time and cost to the finishing process. If you're going to top-coat, I'm not sure why you wouldn't just use a thin film-coat finish like poly, shellac or lacquer; those are all considerably cheaper and faster
I’m so glad I came to this video. One of my biggest pet peeves with UA-cam “how to’s” is when the instructor is adamant that their way is the only way. Refreshing to hear someone admit and even ask for suggestions for what worked from viewers. (Got a pup and needed so much advice. So many trainers say their way is the ONLY way. Usually “their way” involved a product so ultimately if you train your puppy “their way” you would have to buy that product they were affiliated with. Luckily, I also found several who offered plenty of training ideas, admitting that not all dogs respond the same)
I am making my first ever cutting boards and I am very glad that I came across your video prior to finishing my boards. I would have definitely flooded them. Thanks for the great content.
Thank you Mark. I've been struggling with this issue of too thick coats as of late. This is something I will definitely try out. A few questions: • Do you increase the number of thin coats to compensate? • Would more thin coats increase water resistance? • How can we tell when a given coat is fully cured? • Will applying additional coats have a different effect if the underlying coat is fully cured or partially cured (dried not cured)?
Great explanation as always Marc! I love it when you provide examples and side-by-side comparisons to drive home your point instead of "Just take my word for it!"
I was taught the "flooding" method but, was also told, to angle the piece over an empty container and use a plastic scraper to push off the excess into the container, then wipe down. Also was taught to let "dry "24hrs to 48hrs" to dry between coats. To me, the biggest key to application also should include the temperature and humidity in which the application is being done. I'll be doing thin coats from now on. I've always used Tung Oil and Lindseed Oil, they've always been my tried and true finishes. Thanks for this info. Cheers :)
Sweet! I’ve been waiting for this video as I’ve got some Bumblechutes to try out and wanted to put it on most effectively. Thanks for all the work in putting it together.
Thank God, finally someone exhibiting great WISDOM & dismissing the myth of flooding. As for a companies labeling, it's just like any other industry, some are just ignorant that just follow the rest of the sheep & I have no doubt some are driven by sales...If the events we are currently witnessing don't make one question man's motavation, then nothing will. Superb video my friend!
Good information. I've used Tung Oil for years and several of my early projects became finishing disasters because I used the flooding method followed by a wax finish. I wiped the excess off and gave the oil several days to cure and it felt dry so I applied the wax. About a week later the wax starting sloughing off and the whole thing looked like it had the mange. I was able to save the projects by giving them about a month to really cure, a light sanding and reapplying the wax. When I apply much more sparingly, I don't have the issues. I still wait at LEAST a day between coats and about a week between the final coat and waxing.
You could probably test the water absorption by completely coating small blocks of material of the same weight. Next, place them in a measured amount of water. Weigh the water before and after, and you have the amount of water absorbed per unit of weight of wood.
I have noticed after flooding some oil on the surface 4 days afterwards. I couldn’t understand this since I buffed it each day. Now I understand some oil was actually coming back out of the wood each day. Thanks Marc! I’ll try your method next time. 👊
Thanks for this discussion, Marc! I feel this video compliments a similar video by Stumpy Nubs very well. In fact, both your video and his video can be supplemental to each other. I like how you showed physical tests. I was amazed by the endgrain cutting boards. I always knew they were more porous, but didn't know they were that porous. Your video has definitely added a whole heap of value to the community (as usual).
I totally agree with you. Especially for all the directions for consumer marketed finishes you really should be skeptical about the directions for application and talk to one’s who have been using that finish or similar finishes for years in the real world. For linseed oils I can say that thin coats are definitely the way to go and wait as long as possible between coats if you are concerned about the fastest dry and cure times.
Flooding is fine if it's polymerized from a heat treatment process or if it has metal driers in it. If it's pure, thin coats makes a lot more sense. Another great video Marc. Accurate, unbiased, and informative
Hmm, the heat gun demonstration reminds me of advice I actually received to heat wood up before applying the finish, not the other way around. The idea was that the air in the pores and pockets would expand, then try to shrink as it cooled, but if it was covered over with oil (in this case mineral) then it would suck the oil deeper into the wood. The guy claimed he sealed his cutting boards and wooden utensils that way, and has seen much less wear on them or leakage/damage from heat exposure. I wonder if this would work with curing oils, heading the wood up then applying the first thin layer to the piece. Some oil would get sucked in, but would remain in contact with the air since there wouldn't be more oil flooding in on top of it.
Thanks for all the info, Marc! Great testing! 😃 I guess the flooding method would work better for mineral oil. After all, it never cures. Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
The yellow on black text, the big "home alone" facial expression, and the provocative image.... I must say, Marc, you've really upped your thumbnail game.
I love the Tried and True instructions: if you've used any, you've used enough. They recommend a tiny amount rubbed in vigorously. I use that mentality for all natural oil finishes. I use about a dime sized dab per square foot and I apply it with a white pad on a DA polisher. I finished a bookcase by hand once and my arm was tired! The polisher was the perfect solution.
@@tundrawhisperer4821 the white scratch pads. I sand to 180 and use the scratch pad as the "final sanding." If you prefer to sand to a higher grit (220-400), you could use any of those pad applicators for all the coats.
Homer Formby was my hero on TV decades ago, his favorite was Tung oil, which I have adopted myself. I love Tung oil and on a piece I want high gloss I apply 8 to 10 coats 24 hours between. I apply the oil with my bare hands, no rags or sponge, just rub a little everyday. Beautiful gloss finish. Just the way Homer taught me.
Unfortunately, Formby's is one of the worst offenders when it comes to misleading labels. What you're using is actually not tung oil....it's wiping varnish. And I wouldn't recommend applying it with your bare hands as it contains a significant amount of mineral spirits. But hey, my grandpa soaked fishing reel components in kerosene and always used his bare hands so what do I know, lol. But seriously, Formby's is varnish, not pure tung oil, which is the only reason you can build it to a gloss.
That’s very interesting. I’ve made a bunch of boards for people that didn’t want them for Christmas. Oils coming to the surface when heated indicates the oil volume expanding. Putting a hot saucepan on a thick endgrain maple board, infused with mineral oil, split one wide apart. Not on the glue lines, but across the grain. I suppose an oil that dries probably avoids that.
Could be that the cured, thinly-applied board wouldn't because the spaces in the wood that would have been flooded with oil remain full of air. Air would allow itself to compress as it heated up, whereas the liquid oil in your board can't be compressed and therefore exerted a LOT of force as it expanded with heat.
To test water resistance, I would be curious if you weighed each board, soaked them under water for a period, and weighed them again, to see if they absorbed water. I would also be interested to see the same test with soapy water, since soap reduces surface tension and would allow it to absorb better, at the cost of also attacking the oil finish. But since most people use soap on their cutting boards, it seems reasonable.
I came to the same conclusion several years ago after refinishing a dining room table. The table was made from an unidentified ring porous exotic hardwood. I stained it a weathered grey and finished it with three flooded coats of linseed oil. After leaving it in the shop for two weeks to allow some curing time to avoid damaging the finish, I returned it to our dining room and placed it in front of the west facing window. A week later I noticed tiny polka dots in my finish. The conclusion I came to was that the sun had warmed the tabletop and the uncured oil held in those open pours had surfaced and dried. Since that experience, I have been much more cautious when applying oil finishes. I basically use the same method you have described. I still flood or soak tool handles with oil because I think it is appropriate for that application, but on furniture, I apply it sparingly. I mostly use Rubio Monocoat for applications like this these days. It's a fantastic product which solves this problem and gives a superior finish for high wear surfaces in my opinion.
I used Danish oil on my bench for years. Easy to apply and easy to repair. My main finishes are Shellac and oil for smaller projects. If it's larger I spray GF High Performance.
Great video , as always , very informative ! There were several mentions of applicators /cloth or ? Going into the garbage . It is worth mentioning that spontaneous combustion is a very real issue when solvents/ oil / cleaner rags and applicators are not disposed of properly. They all should be stored in an airtight non combustible container and disposed of according to your local bylaws. I ran an automotive shop for 40 years and experienced several "rag bin" fires that luckily were snuffed out by the safety lead melting and closing the lid .
great video marc i think it is a fuzzy area that we can all gain something from a bit more clarity. a video on your interpretation of how to apply finishes based on the label instructions could be interesting. asking local woodworkers is totally worth it. my local lumber yard and rockler usually have great advice giving employees.
Thank you. So much contradictory information on the proper application of tung oil, and your explanation (not flooding) makes total sense. I am using pure tung oil on some antique dining chairs that I have stripped, reglued and sanded. Going to dilute first coat with orange oil probably 1 to 1. Plan is to do 4 or 5 coats. Do you recommend continuing with the orange oil but decreasing the orange oil amount with each subsequent coat until perhaps the last or 2 last coats are pure tung oil? I am thinking about dry/cure time, especially with the higher humidity at the moment. Thanks.
Thank you for the experiments, Marc. I have been moving away from the flooding method as a result of my own experience so it is great to see my thoughts confirmed. I also question the recommended drying times. I recently made a grave marker in European Oak and ended up leaving it for 48 hours between coats even though the initial coats were 50/50 Tung oil and thinners. I wiped off the excess after initial application and then re wiped the surface after 24 hours as it still seemed a little wet in places. The end result is definitely worth the effort.
Wow, excellent video! I actually watched the WHOLE THING. Riveting! (Maybe that says more about me than you excellent presentation skills?). I'm guilty. I'll stop flooding.
I'm a flooder, hadn't ever thought of myself that way till now! I'd rather flood than to skimp but next time I'm gonna try finding a good in between. Interesting look at finishing , good job!
The test that you didn’t do, and would be hard to do in one video is a comparison over time. It probably depends a little bit on the product and the amount of curing taking place inside the wood, but most pieces need to be retreated in 1-3 years. You have another great video on the benefits of penetrating oil finishes. If there’s more oil in the wood, it would seem that it would be a longer time before it needs refinishing. I used a bit of a modified flood method with a brush, and actively brush the oil across the wood for 5-10 minutes only adding more oil if there’s nothing in the brush. While the brush absorbs some, it seems to me to be less than what is absorbed by the towels. There’s a little excess to be wiped off in the end but not a lot. Usually I’ll be moving excess oil to the next piece of wood, next part of the project.
When using polymerasing oil finishes, it is best practice to keep the piece at least a full month after the final coat of oil is applied. This allows enough time for it to fully cure and do anything it might before your clients get it. No matter the application method used.
When carving and finishing gunstocks, I was told to use 00 steel wool to apply and "rub in" thinned tung oil for the first coat. The wool was used to slightly sand and create fine wood dust to help fill the pores. Bare hands and their warmth helped really rub in the oil. Then, a month of drying time was allowed to cure the oil. High count 200+ wet dry paper would be used to rub in another layer of fine pore filling dust. Lots of hand rubbing of this second layer of thinned oil and another month of drying. Next the customer would mount and check the gun to insure dimensions and fit. These two coats also helped harden the wood for fine checkering patterns. Lastly, as many layers of raw or lightly thinned oil could be HAND rubbed to build up the final desired sheen. Summation: Flooding is bad 😁
I like the flooding method, but only for the first coat. I mix my own Danish oil (3 parts turpentine, 2 parts spar varnish, 1 part boiled linseed oil) and never get bleed back on the first coat. I prefer the darker appearance and being able to apply extra finish to more absorbent areas. Having the spar varnish in the mix prevents oil coming back to the service. Subsequent coats I just wet the surface, wait a few minutes and wipe dry. I apply between 3 to 5 coats waiting at least 24 hours between coats, 48 hours being better. You can tell if the surface is dry by feeling it with your fingers. If I was just using oil alone, I wouldn’t use the flooding method. I’ve had straight oil finished pieces bleed oil back after weeks when sitting in the sun. That’s why I only use Danish oil mixes if I want an oil finish. I would think if Mark had applied his light oil finish 4-5 coats, he would get some bleed back from the use of heat. Straight oil just has different characteristics than an oil blend, but you can achieve the same appearance with both. That is why I choose an oil blend. I do use straight oil when I’m going to use a top coat over it like shellac.
I really appreciate this video... I hadn't heard of the "rub sparingly" method before and was ready to give up on tung oil entirely because it just takes too long because I wait until I can't smell it to apply another coat and the smell lasts for weeks sometimes.
I just finished a work bench with a butcher block on top, with watco danish oil.. I kept the wood wet for 15 minutes then let it soak for 15 minutes and wiped off. No sticky residue.
I finished a Lake Erie Moxon vise with Tried and True Danish Oil (not the original with bees wax nor the varnish). Burnished with steel wool before, between, etc. Very thin coats. I was surprised how much the curly grain in the maple gave back over time. I could re-wipe it down twice a day for a week before it stopped returning finish. To cure it took about a month, however the final results are stunning. I like the fact that their finishes are all natural, but time cannot be a concern when curing. Thanks for the vid!
With the tung honey i make, i recommend something kind of in the middle of these. Why? ...cuz its what has worked best for me personally. I think everyone eventually finds what works best for them as they try different techniques. Great points brought up in this video
As a game designer in Colorado who's been getting into woodworking over the past couple years, I've really come to appreciate your channel for NUMEROUS reasons. 😂 "Woodworking. Woodworking never changes."
Perhaps tye cutting board has a greater affinity for water and when using it, moisture is absorbed that displaces the oil. The oul rises to the surface, oxidizes, and mixes with other contaminates to create white streaks. Also, perhaps there is some lac beetle lac mixed in the original oil by the manufacturer.
So... Time to say goodbye to "apply liberally", eh? :) I'm definitely going to try the thin coat method, and it has one more big advantage you haven't mentioned: it's much less messy! You are totally in control, no spillovers etc. Thank you!
Oh lord thank you so much. I'm currently building my 7th and 8th cutting boards, first two were treated with mineral oil, the rest were done with Tung Oil but using the flooding method. I did let them cure for months so in the end once I started using them they hold up pretty well but I need to deliver them sooner than that. Definitely will try applying sparingly on these! Thanks.
Thankyou for this video.As newbie I’ve been stressing about finishing with oil using the manufacturer’s instructions. I had a sense flooding or over applying was going to be a nightmare and ruin my project. It being a forever oily mess. My test pieces were proving it was going to turn out that way. I watched this video just in time!
I'm in two minds about this. For very hard woods I typically use the flood method, thinned for penetration. However, I only let it sit 3-5 minutes before removing excess. I always let it dry sufficiently, then second and subsequent coats I wipe on as demonstrated in this video, and do subsequent coats that way. Not sure when I started using flood method as first coat, but am often doing larger pieces - tables, shelves - and found a thinned, copious (to a point) first coat was easier to apply evenly, whereas only rubbing it on with a cloth was too time-consuming and looked blotchy while applying. Perhaps if i persisted with more coats it would come right, but my method has worked well for me for around 25 years. Will give this a go on the next smaller pieces that I make.
Thanks for making this video! I've been building my first electric guitar and i settled on polymerized tung oil to finish the body. I've been planning on doing the flooding method since that's what everyone recommends (including the instructions from Sutherland Welles) but you've definitely convinced me that the "applied sparingly" method is superior.
Thank you for the video. I just started redoing my floors and I used tung because I like that it's natural (pure, anyway). I thought the flooding method didn't seem quite right and went with something similar to your video. Thin coat in the room and then wipe off excess but I think I'll do it in slower smaller sections and apply light and wipe off immediately. I appreciate your video and advice!
I finished a box with tried and true varnish oil a year ago. I applied very thinly then wiped off excess. The box has been open for a year and if I close it for a day immediately smell linseed oil when I open the box. Pure tung oil seems to cure much more reliably.
About 20 years ago I made a mahogany coffee table for our living room and used Tried-and-True for the first time. I *thought* I had applied thin coats and done everything right but oil kept coming up out of the pores for months. Eventually it stopped and we've been using the coffee table ever since. Finish has held up quite nicely actually but I never used T-n-T again
My guess is that the recommendation to flood the surface falls into the 'conventional wisdom' category, and as time goes by, we are learning that there are better solutions.
Fantastic explanation and helpful to show some simple tests to reinforce your personal opinion/experience. I've been struggling with the Flood it method recently, so I'm really excited to try this out on my next project.
It's a long video. Let me help!
00:00 - Intro
00:24 - How to Apply Tung Oil w/ Citrus Solvent
02:43 - Applying Pure Tung Oil
03:33 - Is this the only way?
04:01 - The Flooding Method
06:17 - Why is Flooding Problematic?
09:38 - My new Guild course! - thewoodwhispererguild.com/product/criss-cross-dining-table-bench/
10:29 - Demonstrating Curing Problems
15:47 - Water Absorption Test
20:27 - Why do companies recommend the flooding method?
Pin it!
Thanks for the tips, Marc! I find myself using a fair amount of oil and varnish blends like watco danish oil and similar things (not on cutting boards, but other knick-knack type projects) and I’m curious if your advice would be the same for those types of finishes?
Years ago I think there was a treatment for wood before you put the finish on that was supposed to close the pores of the wood so it didn't soak up finish so bad. Is that a thing? Do we not do that now?
Have put tung oil 5 times. before wiping. Each time I apply oil, l decrease time before wiping because it's always sticky. With 320 grit in between. Last coat was 5min before wiping . Still sticky. Help!
@@jack002tuber i tried to seal wood with thinned waterbased sanding sealer before laying natural wood oil. Seems to be working just fine. I made sure the 1st layer already dried up, before laying down the oil.
I think that your explanations were accurate. I have been applying finishes for more than 35 years and have tried many different materials with many different application techniques. Here’s what I’ve learned: 1. Unless the finish is self-polymerizing (two part finishes or loaded with drying agents) thin coats are always better, in the majority of cases a diluted thin first layer is best. 2. Cure time is crucial, period. The finish is the final step of craftsmanship, and you need to be prepared to “finish” the finish. Rush through this stage and your perfect joinery and meticulous wood selection and preparation will simply look like crapmanship instead of craftsmanship.
Hi mmgross. How would you recommend going about applying a Waterlox tung oil finish to antique heart pine ceiling joists? The joists are "rough sawn" original and I don't intend to hand plane or sand, as I've already used a sandblaster to remove some of the patina, revealing clean wood underneith but also resulting in a rough texture. My thought is to first deep clean, first with air compressor and then with a wire brush dipped in mineral spirits. Then, I would apply thinned-out Waterlox tung oil via a ROLLER, being a bit aggressive to make sure I get full coverage but then coming back a few minutes after initial application and wiping away excess with rags (or even with a "dry roller"?). After waiting a day or two I would come back and scuff sand a touch to knock-down the first coat, then repeat the process albeit maybe not being so aggressive with my roller application on coats 2 and 3. Do you think I've got this right? What would you recommend? Thank you for your time!
@@MrGrillguy44: Seems reasonable. How did it work out?
@@HighRPMCreationslike so many of my home projects, i haven't gotten to this yet. Lol. I was also hoping mmgross (or others) would chime in and offer feedback on my plan.
I guess the flooding method is the one manufacturers want you to use in order to go through more of their stuff.
Maybe or maybe they’re still of the mindset that the more oil we can get into the pours the better our wood will be sealed. But maybe it is about driving sales. They don’t tell you to flood with urethanes or something like that, even TruOil doesn’t tell you to flood it.
Doubt it. It's $40 for the small "Bumblechute" can, just greed.
@@cMurder2osix they are changing their packaging to reflect the method suggested in the video. It isn't about that.
@@cMurder2osixNot worth it. Straight Tung oil or just buy both and combine them
There is absolutely no doubt that your videos are the gold standard for how UA-cam videos should be done. Been watching you for years and am never disappointed. Oh, and keep adding the outtakes, love em.
Thank you for making this video. I have probably seen around 30 to 40 other videos like this trying to learn as much as I can, but the simple approach that you discussed, and the explanation of the oil going into the pores, is worth more than all of the knowledge I gained from all the other videos combined. Thanks a bunch!
Same is here, I’m not doing a cutting board, I was looking something like that for my axe handle, for axe handles is different i will want my axe handle absorbed as much oil as possible, for the outdoor weather, I think I will soaking and submerge my new axe in linseeds oil overnight so the oil will go into all the pores then I can wax the handle
This is such valuable content. I really appreciate your scientific approach to woodworking. Shows that you can’t always blindly trust manufacturers or conventional wisdom!
I had always used Salad Bowl Finish from GF for cuttingboards until I made one for a cousin. My can was too old so I had to use pure tung oil. I flooded it on like the directions said, then wiped it off. A year later, it was still leaching oil out. Finally it stopped and I tried this light method. MUCH better! Been woodworking for 12 years, and still learning new things. Thanks Marc!
Perfect Timing! I just put on a flood coat of Walrus Tung Oil. Then I sat down to watch your video…
I went back out, wiped off the excess, and then rubbed the remaining oil into the surface.
This is a Bob Flexner level explanation in a much more exciting format. Thanks Marc!
I’m only about 10 minutes in but already I’ve learned some stuff / realized the reason behind some things I know but didn’t understand. Finishing is my Achilles heel for sure and I love that you don’t just expect us to take your word for it, you back it up with evidence and testing.
Thanks for this video. I have been doing woodworking for nearly 1/2 century and have always liked oil finishes. You realized the advantages of thin coats versus flooding in way less time than it took me. Haha. Thanks for validating my own findings. I like a couple thin coats of tung oil/mineral spirits, allow a week to cure, then do Briwax applied with 0000 steel wool and buffed to a nice flat sheen.
Man, I'm sold. Definitely going with thin layers for tung oil from now on.
When I use non-curing oils like mineral oil, flooding makes some sense. For curing oils, I think you’ve convinced me to try thin coats.
Rags rock.
Finish expert and author Michael Dresdner said ANY finish can be applied/wiped on with rags. Since hearing him say that over 20 years ago probably, I use rags for almost everything including paint! When I'm done with paint it goes in the garbage, but I use old, dried oil finish rags and ones with polyurethane and other clear finishes to help start the wood stove! :-)
This is exactly where I went wrong after your previous video about finishing. I followed the tung oil manufacturer’s directions for flood coats and left plenty of time for curing only to come back to white patches of cured oil. Was about to give up on tung oil/citrus oil mix but will try the thin coat method. Thanks Marc!
If you get the white spots or discolored film, how do you go about fixing it? Not that I would do anything like that. I'm just asking for a friend.
Same here. I actually have a friend who did multiple boards using the manufacturers instructions, now he has white speckled boards… Would also love to know if it’s salvageable. Asking to help my friend of course.
@sebasss01 I took all of "my friends'" boards and gave them a light sanding with 320 grit and rubbed in a very thin amount of oil/solvent and they seem to be fine now.
@@sethowens ah, thanks I’ll tell my friend to give that a try then.
have you tried the heatgun to melt it and then remove with a cloth?
220-221, whatever it takes -- I say this all the time and no one ever gets it. You gave me a good laugh today!
That’s one of my favorite quotes ever, but yeah, no one ever gets it 🤷🏽♂️
Great to see such a tactile finish rather than plastic epoxy 😊
Thanks for the straight forward attention to the little details. This is why I watch your videos. Well, your sense of humor helps too!
I’m just going to try your method. I was about to do the flooding technique. Not now. Thank goodness I found your video. I think you have explained the reasoning so clearly. Great job. Thanks.
Thank you - I appreciate the value of your experience combined with the common sense I find necessary in my (personal) approach to all projects/problem solving situations.
Great advice, and thanks for not using alarming titles. I usually ignore "you're doing it wrong" tutorials.
It was a long video but it was well worth the watch and it’s opened my eyes to how I apply a finish to a build. Great review
I moved away from the soak or flood method a while back, just from seeing how the board was curing. Part of that was my discovery of mineral oil never curing. I moved to Mahoney's Walnut Oil and I just wipe it on now. Good video!
Great video. The manufacturers of most pure tung oil say to flood and leave like you said. Your method is spot on! The flood and leave takes a loooong time to cure.
Thanks for explaining this. Finishing is one area in woodworking that I really struggle with not knowing exactly what to do and this helps!
Thank you for the clear and concise explanations. I happen to use the apply thin approach and have for years. Never had an issue with it.
Thanks for saving my time and sharing how-to information in the very beginning!
Great vid, very thorough. I know it’s been done to death, but would love to see your take on the latest craze of hard wax oils. E.g. Rubio, Osmo, Odies’s, Nano ceramics. Including amount of time to apply, dry, cure; level of gloss, durability and repair.
This whole ceramics thing is legit. And it's simple, hence why black forest did it, and Cam was pushing it then all of a sudden had his own brand lol. I'm 99% sure you can just use a general car wax ceramic coat.
I like these guys, but it's too product heavy it makes me cringe.
"This is a pencil, I didn't invent it or anything, you can buy this one from the links in description"
I've stopped watching him for now because it makes me cringe how he says I didn't invent it for every single cool technique thats been around for 100 years, and how every single time he uses a product he makes sure he gets a sponsorship before he posts the video.
It's cringe. I grt it, but it's taking the craft out of it for me and becoming one long commercial
Marc mentioned recently on a wood talk how these hard wax oils with additional protection on them (ceramic coating) are taking away the entire purpose of the HWO’s in the first place which is ease of application and less steps than a traditional polyurethane. It really is a great point. I mean they don’t offer enough protection in the first place.
@Sam Wanamaker Agreed. The advantage of HWO is ease of application, and done properly, it's pretty damn tough. Even so, one great advantage is the ability to spot-repair if the surface takes damage. The ceramic adds considerable time and cost to the finishing process. If you're going to top-coat, I'm not sure why you wouldn't just use a thin film-coat finish like poly, shellac or lacquer; those are all considerably cheaper and faster
I’m so glad I came to this video. One of my biggest pet peeves with UA-cam “how to’s” is when the instructor is adamant that their way is the only way. Refreshing to hear someone admit and even ask for suggestions for what worked from viewers.
(Got a pup and needed so much advice. So many trainers say their way is the ONLY way. Usually “their way” involved a product so ultimately if you train your puppy “their way” you would have to buy that product they were affiliated with. Luckily, I also found several who offered plenty of training ideas, admitting that not all dogs respond the same)
Right on! I will be putting finish on my cutting boards next weekend and this came out right on time.
I am making my first ever cutting boards and I am very glad that I came across your video prior to finishing my boards. I would have definitely flooded them. Thanks for the great content.
Thank you Mark. I've been struggling with this issue of too thick coats as of late. This is something I will definitely try out.
A few questions:
• Do you increase the number of thin coats to compensate?
• Would more thin coats increase water resistance?
• How can we tell when a given coat is fully cured?
• Will applying additional coats have a different effect if the underlying coat is fully cured or partially cured (dried not cured)?
Perfect list of questions, sadly not answered
Thank you for being such a good teacher! I feel a lot more confident about oil finishes.
Great explanation as always Marc! I love it when you provide examples and side-by-side comparisons to drive home your point instead of "Just take my word for it!"
I was taught the "flooding" method but, was also told, to angle the piece over an empty container and use a plastic scraper to push off the excess into the container, then wipe down. Also was taught to let "dry "24hrs to 48hrs" to dry between coats. To me, the biggest key to application also should include the temperature and humidity in which the application is being done. I'll be doing thin coats from now on. I've always used Tung Oil and Lindseed Oil, they've always been my tried and true finishes. Thanks for this info. Cheers :)
Sweet! I’ve been waiting for this video as I’ve got some Bumblechutes to try out and wanted to put it on most effectively. Thanks for all the work in putting it together.
The oil seeping out with the heat gun was cool to see.
Thank God, finally someone exhibiting great WISDOM & dismissing the myth of flooding. As for a companies labeling, it's just like any other industry, some are just ignorant that just follow the rest of the sheep & I have no doubt some are driven by sales...If the events we are currently witnessing don't make one question man's motavation, then nothing will. Superb video my friend!
Thanks for the great advice. Your experience with these finishes gives me a lot of trust in using your advice.
Excellent video and yes, thank you for not using a click-bait title!
Good information. I've used Tung Oil for years and several of my early projects became finishing disasters because I used the flooding method followed by a wax finish. I wiped the excess off and gave the oil several days to cure and it felt dry so I applied the wax. About a week later the wax starting sloughing off and the whole thing looked like it had the mange. I was able to save the projects by giving them about a month to really cure, a light sanding and reapplying the wax.
When I apply much more sparingly, I don't have the issues. I still wait at LEAST a day between coats and about a week between the final coat and waxing.
You could probably test the water absorption by completely coating small blocks of material of the same weight. Next, place them in a measured amount of water. Weigh the water before and after, and you have the amount of water absorbed per unit of weight of wood.
Kinda genius
I have noticed after flooding some oil on the surface 4 days afterwards. I couldn’t understand this since I buffed it each day. Now I understand some oil was actually coming back out of the wood each day. Thanks Marc! I’ll try your method next time. 👊
Thanks for this discussion, Marc! I feel this video compliments a similar video by Stumpy Nubs very well. In fact, both your video and his video can be supplemental to each other.
I like how you showed physical tests. I was amazed by the endgrain cutting boards. I always knew they were more porous, but didn't know they were that porous. Your video has definitely added a whole heap of value to the community (as usual).
I totally agree with you. Especially for all the directions for consumer marketed finishes you really should be skeptical about the directions for application and talk to one’s who have been using that finish or similar finishes for years in the real world.
For linseed oils I can say that thin coats are definitely the way to go and wait as long as possible between coats if you are concerned about the fastest dry and cure times.
Dude you are my hero for making this.
Flooding is fine if it's polymerized from a heat treatment process or if it has metal driers in it. If it's pure, thin coats makes a lot more sense. Another great video Marc. Accurate, unbiased, and informative
Hmm, the heat gun demonstration reminds me of advice I actually received to heat wood up before applying the finish, not the other way around. The idea was that the air in the pores and pockets would expand, then try to shrink as it cooled, but if it was covered over with oil (in this case mineral) then it would suck the oil deeper into the wood. The guy claimed he sealed his cutting boards and wooden utensils that way, and has seen much less wear on them or leakage/damage from heat exposure.
I wonder if this would work with curing oils, heading the wood up then applying the first thin layer to the piece. Some oil would get sucked in, but would remain in contact with the air since there wouldn't be more oil flooding in on top of it.
"We could have a whole 'nother video, just on that stuff." Yes, please! Thanks for sharing.
Finally, someone who questions the flood coat! :D Been a bugbear of mine for years
My mom still uses the cutting board I made her in woodshop in 1975. It wasn't treated when I made it, and hasn't been treated since.
Thank you for not naming it "what you've been doing wrong this whole time!"
Great video.
I really learned here a lot. I will take care to spread thin layers, so great, thanks a lot for your work.
Thanks for all the info, Marc! Great testing! 😃
I guess the flooding method would work better for mineral oil. After all, it never cures.
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
The yellow on black text, the big "home alone" facial expression, and the provocative image.... I must say, Marc, you've really upped your thumbnail game.
Thanks. I hate that it matters as much as it does.
I got very good results following Tried and True's instructions (thin coats) on a Christmas related project this last Christmas season.
Thank you! Great video and perfect timing as I’m getting ready to finish a bar cabinet I have been working on for some time!
I love the Tried and True instructions: if you've used any, you've used enough. They recommend a tiny amount rubbed in vigorously.
I use that mentality for all natural oil finishes. I use about a dime sized dab per square foot and I apply it with a white pad on a DA polisher. I finished a bookcase by hand once and my arm was tired! The polisher was the perfect solution.
What is the “white pad” you are referring to? Thx
@@tundrawhisperer4821 3M white for the first coat or 2, then I switch to a terry sock.
@@CheveeDodd is that a wool, microfiber, or foam pad? Thx
@@tundrawhisperer4821 the white scratch pads. I sand to 180 and use the scratch pad as the "final sanding." If you prefer to sand to a higher grit (220-400), you could use any of those pad applicators for all the coats.
@@CheveeDodd oh…like a scotchbrite type pad, I see now. Thx
Homer Formby was my hero on TV decades ago, his favorite was Tung oil, which I have adopted myself. I love Tung oil and on a piece I want high gloss I apply 8 to 10 coats 24 hours between. I apply the oil with my bare hands, no rags or sponge, just rub a little everyday. Beautiful gloss finish. Just the way Homer taught me.
Unfortunately, Formby's is one of the worst offenders when it comes to misleading labels. What you're using is actually not tung oil....it's wiping varnish. And I wouldn't recommend applying it with your bare hands as it contains a significant amount of mineral spirits. But hey, my grandpa soaked fishing reel components in kerosene and always used his bare hands so what do I know, lol. But seriously, Formby's is varnish, not pure tung oil, which is the only reason you can build it to a gloss.
That’s very interesting. I’ve made a bunch of boards for people that didn’t want them for Christmas. Oils coming to the surface when heated indicates the oil volume expanding.
Putting a hot saucepan on a thick endgrain maple board, infused with mineral oil, split one wide apart. Not on the glue lines, but across the grain. I suppose an oil that dries probably avoids that.
Could be that the cured, thinly-applied board wouldn't because the spaces in the wood that would have been flooded with oil remain full of air. Air would allow itself to compress as it heated up, whereas the liquid oil in your board can't be compressed and therefore exerted a LOT of force as it expanded with heat.
To test water resistance, I would be curious if you weighed each board, soaked them under water for a period, and weighed them again, to see if they absorbed water.
I would also be interested to see the same test with soapy water, since soap reduces surface tension and would allow it to absorb better, at the cost of also attacking the oil finish. But since most people use soap on their cutting boards, it seems reasonable.
Great video. We fully expect you to use your Barry White voice when you say Tung Oil from now on. 😂
I came to the same conclusion several years ago after refinishing a dining room table. The table was made from an unidentified ring porous exotic hardwood. I stained it a weathered grey and finished it with three flooded coats of linseed oil. After leaving it in the shop for two weeks to allow some curing time to avoid damaging the finish, I returned it to our dining room and placed it in front of the west facing window. A week later I noticed tiny polka dots in my finish. The conclusion I came to was that the sun had warmed the tabletop and the uncured oil held in those open pours had surfaced and dried. Since that experience, I have been much more cautious when applying oil finishes. I basically use the same method you have described. I still flood or soak tool handles with oil because I think it is appropriate for that application, but on furniture, I apply it sparingly. I mostly use Rubio Monocoat for applications like this these days. It's a fantastic product which solves this problem and gives a superior finish for high wear surfaces in my opinion.
I used Danish oil on my bench for years. Easy to apply and easy to repair. My main finishes are Shellac and oil for smaller projects. If it's larger I spray GF High Performance.
Great video , as always , very informative ! There were several mentions of applicators /cloth or ? Going into the garbage . It is worth mentioning that spontaneous combustion is a very real issue when solvents/ oil / cleaner rags and applicators are not disposed of properly. They all should be stored in an airtight non combustible container and disposed of according to your local bylaws. I ran an automotive shop for 40 years and experienced several "rag bin" fires that luckily were snuffed out by the safety lead melting and closing the lid .
great video marc i think it is a fuzzy area that we can all gain something from a bit more clarity. a video on your interpretation of how to apply finishes based on the label instructions could be interesting. asking local woodworkers is totally worth it. my local lumber yard and rockler usually have great advice giving employees.
Thank you. So much contradictory information on the proper application of tung oil, and your explanation (not flooding) makes total sense. I am using pure tung oil on some antique dining chairs that I have stripped, reglued and sanded. Going to dilute first coat with orange oil probably 1 to 1. Plan is to do 4 or 5 coats. Do you recommend continuing with the orange oil but decreasing the orange oil amount with each subsequent coat until perhaps the last or 2 last coats are pure tung oil? I am thinking about dry/cure time, especially with the higher humidity at the moment. Thanks.
Ok, been having these issues and been working on being patient, applying thinner coats with much better results. Thanks for the peace of mind. 👍
Thank you for the experiments, Marc. I have been moving away from the flooding method as a result of my own experience so it is great to see my thoughts confirmed. I also question the recommended drying times. I recently made a grave marker in European Oak and ended up leaving it for 48 hours between coats even though the initial coats were 50/50 Tung oil and thinners. I wiped off the excess after initial application and then re wiped the surface after 24 hours as it still seemed a little wet in places. The end result is definitely worth the effort.
Wow, excellent video! I actually watched the WHOLE THING. Riveting! (Maybe that says more about me than you excellent presentation skills?). I'm guilty. I'll stop flooding.
I'm a flooder, hadn't ever thought of myself that way till now! I'd rather flood than to skimp but next time I'm gonna try finding a good in between. Interesting look at finishing , good job!
The test that you didn’t do, and would be hard to do in one video is a comparison over time. It probably depends a little bit on the product and the amount of curing taking place inside the wood, but most pieces need to be retreated in 1-3 years. You have another great video on the benefits of penetrating oil finishes. If there’s more oil in the wood, it would seem that it would be a longer time before it needs refinishing.
I used a bit of a modified flood method with a brush, and actively brush the oil across the wood for 5-10 minutes only adding more oil if there’s nothing in the brush. While the brush absorbs some, it seems to me to be less than what is absorbed by the towels. There’s a little excess to be wiped off in the end but not a lot. Usually I’ll be moving excess oil to the next piece of wood, next part of the project.
Thank you very much. Your tutorial was really helpful 🙏🇬🇧
When using polymerasing oil finishes, it is best practice to keep the piece at least a full month after the final coat of oil is applied. This allows enough time for it to fully cure and do anything it might before your clients get it. No matter the application method used.
When carving and finishing gunstocks, I was told to use 00 steel wool to apply and "rub in" thinned tung oil for the first coat. The wool was used to slightly sand and create fine wood dust to help fill the pores. Bare hands and their warmth helped really rub in the oil. Then, a month of drying time was allowed to cure the oil. High count 200+ wet dry paper would be used to rub in another layer of fine pore filling dust. Lots of hand rubbing of this second layer of thinned oil and another month of drying. Next the customer would mount and check the gun to insure dimensions and fit. These two coats also helped harden the wood for fine checkering patterns. Lastly, as many layers of raw or lightly thinned oil could be HAND rubbed to build up the final desired sheen.
Summation: Flooding is bad 😁
Sounds like a real labor of love!
You got the labor part right. I kept 2.
I love it, this is like an episode of Mythbusters!
I like the flooding method, but only for the first coat. I mix my own Danish oil (3 parts turpentine, 2 parts spar varnish, 1 part boiled linseed oil) and never get bleed back on the first coat. I prefer the darker appearance and being able to apply extra finish to more absorbent areas. Having the spar varnish in the mix prevents oil coming back to the service. Subsequent coats I just wet the surface, wait a few minutes and wipe dry. I apply between 3 to 5 coats waiting at least 24 hours between coats, 48 hours being better. You can tell if the surface is dry by feeling it with your fingers.
If I was just using oil alone, I wouldn’t use the flooding method. I’ve had straight oil finished pieces bleed oil back after weeks when sitting in the sun. That’s why I only use Danish oil mixes if I want an oil finish.
I would think if Mark had applied his light oil finish 4-5 coats, he would get some bleed back from the use of heat. Straight oil just has different characteristics than an oil blend, but you can achieve the same appearance with both. That is why I choose an oil blend. I do use straight oil when I’m going to use a top coat over it like shellac.
I have been making cutting boards for years And I now only use Osmo Top oil ….not polyx oil but top oil. It is the best I have ever used by far
I really appreciate this video... I hadn't heard of the "rub sparingly" method before and was ready to give up on tung oil entirely because it just takes too long because I wait until I can't smell it to apply another coat and the smell lasts for weeks sometimes.
I just finished a work bench with a butcher block on top, with watco danish oil.. I kept the wood wet for 15 minutes then let it soak for 15 minutes and wiped off. No sticky residue.
I like how they word it in the Tried & True instructional videos:
_"If you've applied any, you've applied enough."_
I finished a Lake Erie Moxon vise with Tried and True Danish Oil (not the original with bees wax nor the varnish). Burnished with steel wool before, between, etc. Very thin coats. I was surprised how much the curly grain in the maple gave back over time. I could re-wipe it down twice a day for a week before it stopped returning finish. To cure it took about a month, however the final results are stunning. I like the fact that their finishes are all natural, but time cannot be a concern when curing. Thanks for the vid!
With the tung honey i make, i recommend something kind of in the middle of these. Why? ...cuz its what has worked best for me personally. I think everyone eventually finds what works best for them as they try different techniques. Great points brought up in this video
Love seeing science Marc videos!!
Great video, Marc! It's an area where I feel like a huge noob still!
As a game designer in Colorado who's been getting into woodworking over the past couple years, I've really come to appreciate your channel for NUMEROUS reasons. 😂
"Woodworking. Woodworking never changes."
Thanks for watching! Fallout is one of our favorite games :)
Perhaps tye cutting board has a greater affinity for water and when using it, moisture is absorbed that displaces the oil. The oul rises to the surface, oxidizes, and mixes with other contaminates to create white streaks. Also, perhaps there is some lac beetle lac mixed in the original oil by the manufacturer.
So... Time to say goodbye to "apply liberally", eh? :)
I'm definitely going to try the thin coat method, and it has one more big advantage you haven't mentioned: it's much less messy! You are totally in control, no spillovers etc.
Thank you!
Oh lord thank you so much. I'm currently building my 7th and 8th cutting boards, first two were treated with mineral oil, the rest were done with Tung Oil but using the flooding method. I did let them cure for months so in the end once I started using them they hold up pretty well but I need to deliver them sooner than that.
Definitely will try applying sparingly on these! Thanks.
Thankyou for this video.As newbie I’ve been stressing about finishing with oil using the manufacturer’s instructions. I had a sense flooding or over applying was going to be a nightmare and ruin my project. It being a forever oily mess. My test pieces were proving it was going to turn out that way. I watched this video just in time!
I'm in two minds about this. For very hard woods I typically use the flood method, thinned for penetration. However, I only let it sit 3-5 minutes before removing excess. I always let it dry sufficiently, then second and subsequent coats I wipe on as demonstrated in this video, and do subsequent coats that way. Not sure when I started using flood method as first coat, but am often doing larger pieces - tables, shelves - and found a thinned, copious (to a point) first coat was easier to apply evenly, whereas only rubbing it on with a cloth was too time-consuming and looked blotchy while applying. Perhaps if i persisted with more coats it would come right, but my method has worked well for me for around 25 years.
Will give this a go on the next smaller pieces that I make.
Thanks for making this video! I've been building my first electric guitar and i settled on polymerized tung oil to finish the body. I've been planning on doing the flooding method since that's what everyone recommends (including the instructions from Sutherland Welles) but you've definitely convinced me that the "applied sparingly" method is superior.
Thank you for the video. I just started redoing my floors and I used tung because I like that it's natural (pure, anyway). I thought the flooding method didn't seem quite right and went with something similar to your video. Thin coat in the room and then wipe off excess but I think I'll do it in slower smaller sections and apply light and wipe off immediately. I appreciate your video and advice!
Thanks for all that info and demonstrations. Great job really showing what you were talking about. Oh and awesome shirt also!!
I finished a box with tried and true varnish oil a year ago. I applied very thinly then wiped off excess. The box has been open for a year and if I close it for a day immediately smell linseed oil when I open the box.
Pure tung oil seems to cure much more reliably.
About 20 years ago I made a mahogany coffee table for our living room and used Tried-and-True for the first time. I *thought* I had applied thin coats and done everything right but oil kept coming up out of the pores for months. Eventually it stopped and we've been using the coffee table ever since. Finish has held up quite nicely actually but I never used T-n-T again
Awesome video. I admit...I thought more was better. Thanks!
I get it. You're a freaking genius!
My guess is that the recommendation to flood the surface falls into the 'conventional wisdom' category, and as time goes by, we are learning that there are better solutions.
Fantastic explanation and helpful to show some simple tests to reinforce your personal opinion/experience. I've been struggling with the Flood it method recently, so I'm really excited to try this out on my next project.