Don't use beeswax! The only oil we'll use to seal butcher block and how we finish and refinish them.
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- Опубліковано 20 вер 2024
- Kitchen countertops take a beating! When it comes to sealing your butcher block countertops you don’t want to trust any run-of-the-mill sealer. Trust us - we’ve tried! When it comes to sealing, Tung Oil for butcher block is your best bet!
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Life pro tip: Find someone who looks at you like she looks at him.
😊 Thanks for watching!
I noticed that right away too.
Probably everyone's first observation in this video. 😊 good bless these two!
I find it extremely creepy 😳
@@rickross199WHY
That’s just weird
I’ve used this tung oil and citrus oil from real milk paint for over 4 years. I bought 4 tung oil and 2 citrus solvent, everyone thought that was too much. I sanded my floors in the main level and used the tung oil and citrus mix because it’s pet safe. I don’t worry about scratches from nails because it doesn’t scratch. If there’s a scratch from moving furniture a simple wipe down and it’s gone.
I’m now doing butcher block countertops and refinished my dining table and chairs. All done in the tung oil.
I love the rustic not glossy varnish look, it’s just beautiful wood.
Now I have enough to keep my wood looking great. If I sell my house the new owners will have beautiful wood too.
That's so awesome... thanks for sharing! Glad to hear the tung oil is holding up well on your floors. We went with a different natural finish on our wood floors and if we could do it all over again we'd go with tung oil too. All the best and thanks for watching!
I looked up the MSDS sheet for this product and it is good news. It is actually 100% Tung oil.
Most "tung oils" for sale are a mix with various toxic oils and solvents and are NOT suitable for food contact. However, Tung oil has to be handled with care and any rags wet/damp with it must be kept in a metal, fire safe canister because they can spontaneously burst into flames.
Thanks for sharing!
I'm purchasing a house with butcherblock countertops and you're helping me be a little less intimidated, thanks!
Awesome! Glad it was helpful. You got this! Thanks for watching!
I'm a hardwax oil fan, and have moved away from pure oils, but I might try tung oil in the future.
One note: "butcher block" is end grain only. Traditionally it was a log with end grain pointed up, but slowly became laminated lumber. But it's always end grain UP. What you have is laminated hardwood countertops. A seemingly small difference, but butcher blocks were never finished with any drying oil, because they were so effective at killing bacteria by drawing the moisture deep into the wood pores.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks for sharing!
Tung Oil is definitely the most durable and when one boils a test piece of wood treated with 4 layers of Tung Oil, there is no deterioration. Great video thank you. I would like to see how a butcher's block or just a good chopping board is made.
You're welcome! We are sold. Good suggestions for future videos - thanks!
I’m a newbie to butcher block! My husband installed quite a bit of it in our kitchen last night and I’m so grateful to have found your experience and instruction. God bless you guys!
Oh, exciting! I hope you love it! So glad this was helpful for you!
I have made butcher block (end grain) cutting boards for decades. Food grade mineral oil soak followed by a butcher block conditioner. If you want something more then flaxseed oil will work. I wouldn't advise tung oil.
check out my comment 🙂
@@SALTYCOMBATDIVER-ExInstructorwhat's wrong with tung oil? Genuine question.
@@KristiBee it's not food safe according to many.
I love your kitchen. I am a cabinet designer and frankly, I don’t want to have a kitchen with tons of matching cabinets … for years, I’ve always wanted something w butcher blocks an old stove shelves and cabinet combos w a few old times details mixed w contemporary and multi color finish styles. Most people are afraid of that. But, I love it!
Thank you!! It's definitely not the standard but we love it too!!
Thank you for your candid perspective. I opted for tung oil; in a working kitchen under remodel. I was able to work around a kitchen in disarray. To accommodate the need for a kitchen while finishing with tung oil, I cut and temporarily fitted the new countertop to insure they were correctly cut and then removed them; replacing just enough of the old countertop to function until the final install could be completed. I used 4 coats. It is not quick, it took about a month, but it is relatively easy. However, this provided time to do other work. I did a light maintenance coat 6 months later but really don't know that it was needed and didn't disrupt use of the kitchen. My counters still bead water and there are no stains. I'm at a year now and will do a maintenance coat again. I use limolene to thin it. Limolene is good to keep around in general as an alternative to mineral spirits for some uses. Thanks again.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing your experience. Glad it worked well for you!
Thanks for the confirmation- I am wondering what your experience has been in the sink area where it's always WET-this is my biggest concern for the home that we are buying/moving to this week- I have horrid visions of black mildew stains YIKES
The tung oil has been amazing around the sink area! We haven't had any of the mold/mildew problems that we used to have when we used beeswax/mineral oil!
You should try sanding it at higher grits after a few coats of oil for better waterproofing. Higher grits close the pores of wood, which is why when staining you don’t want to sand past 180
Good thought! Thanks for watching!
There was a recent study of sanding with higher grits. This was I believe in Fine Woodworking. (in 2023 for sure) and the surfaces were looked at under very high magnification. Turns out that this scientist found that the very finely sanded surfaces actually had very fine sawdust very packed into the pores. Rather than close the pores, they filled the pores.... Just interesting.
I have been using Tung oil for years on lots of my projects and was leaning towards it on a new 60" x 27" top I am making, and here you are using it and cementing my decision. Thanks so much and great job!
So glad it was helpful and thanks for watching!
how many coats should I put on a NEW Butcher block countertop?
@@judichristopher4604 Keep adding coats until most of it is not absorbed into the wood. then just wipe and buff last coat. I ended up going with mineral oil(had to strip off all the tung oil, my fault) and it is super easy to add more whenever you feel it is needed. Good luck!!!
@@Lewisusa11
Thank you for the info
@@judichristopher4604 You are very welcome!!!
exactly what I was looking for - a "food safe" finish as you described it - subbed
Awesome - glad it was helpful!! Thanks for being here!
Yeah
Mineral oil just isn’t food safe no matter what the bottle says
I just ordered this. Called the company with some questions, and they were very helpful . There is a Black Friday sale on right now!!!
So glad they were helpful! Hope you it works really well for you!
Thank you! I just built and installed my first butcher block countertops and with so many videos I have them covered and now feel I have found the best solution! Love your countertops.
Awesome! Hope you're loving them. Thanks for watching!
Covered with what?
Just did my butcher block countertops this weekend. I have 3 coats in so far, I really love the way it's turning out. Thanks for the advice 🤘
Awesome! Hope you love them so much and thanks for watching!
I have a wooden stool I used to play guitar that my brother made for me over 50 years ago, and finished with tung oil after wood burning a design into the seat. It's still holding strong, albeit turned a lovely amber/yellow color. In fact, the finish has held up better than one of the wood foot rest dowels that broke. We use it as a plant stand now days, because the seat seems to have shrunk over the years. A piano bench makes for a better guitar stool anyway. Hopefully it won't shrink in similar proportion, nor as fast as the stool did.
So glad it’s working for you!! Thanks for watching!
Bwah haha love it!
How DO things shrink like that 🤷🏼♀️
🤣
@@YeshuaKingMessiah I have no idea. I may need to upgrade my piano bench to a church pew. ;^)
I used your discount code to get a gallon of Dark Half. I am so glad I found your video! This stuff is amazing, and it will be my go-to sealer from here forward.
Awesome! So glad it worked out well for you!
I was looking at Tung oil for my new cutting boards so now I'm even more excited to think of this making a full a butcher block countertop a viable option.
Awesome! Good luck with your projects and thanks for watching!
I install probably half a dozen to a dozen counter tops a year with a third of them being butcher block and, I would say that if your looking to use the counter for active abuse going with an epoxy finish. There are many different types of epoxy out there, fast setting, thin pour and deep pour etc... they tend to bring as much depth to the grain as possible but cost is sufficiently higher then oil. With oil the only two that are really food safe are tung and mineral oil of which should be applied continuously from week to week until the wood no longer accepts it which can honestly take a year or two for an 1.5"-2" counter top.
Awesome, thanks for sharing your experience and for watching!
Boiled Linseed Oil is food safe if you buy actual Pure "Boiled" Linseed oil, not the stuff that has chemical dryers in it. There is a company, i think they are Swedish, they do an all natural Cold Pressed BLO, its labeled "All Black" Boiled linseed oil. Though, my go to is still Tung oil.
Do you know if you could use this stuff for the color and then an epoxy over top of that for additional protection?
@@paigecowart1027 If you want to Epoxy the counter top i would suggest using an actual wood stain not a colored oil. I am not totally sure if the Epoxy is ok over the top of an oil finish, but if it is, you would need to be 100% sure that it is full cured before coating it with Epoxy to ensure there is no issues. If you are just want the color before Epoxy, the easiest and safest option would be to use a wood stain.
@@paulmccullough7352 ok, thank you… starting the project soon and trying to figure out the best option. Think we’ll stick with staining then. Thanks again.
I love my butcher block counter tops! Going to try this- was using just citrus oil and it isn’t strong enough! Thanks!
Awesome!! It’s really been a game changer for us! Thanks for watching!
Oh my, i absolutely love your counter tops 😍 beautiful. Great job .thank you so much for your kindness and sharing with us how to protect the wood.
Thanks you!! So glad it is helpful for you!
We have a coffee table that we made and sealed it with vegetable oil and it has lasted 38 years. We then did the same thing with our island, now 12 years old and have recently installed butcher block. It can be cleaned with dawn to take out any blemishes that May have occur and putting vegetable oil again. No sanding required. Vegetable oil is non expensive, safe for consumption and available in almost all household. It truly brings the grain out beautifully.
Awesome! Sounds like another great option. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Interesting, doesn't it go rancid?
@@dirtmover123 no, never have a problem. You can also use dawn if it gets marks on it and re oil.
@@dirtmover123yes, vegetable oil and any other cooking oil will go rancid and is the wrong oil to use for this application. Stick to tung oil if you have the time and patience for multiple coats over a couple of weeks, or use mineral oil which needs to be applied much more frequently but will not go rancid.
Soybean oil vs tung oil?
I’ll go with tung oil
Soybean is not good for humans, or animals rly.
Thank you for your experience with the butcher block countertops! We are putting ours in and don't have experience with it yet, so your video was very helpful.
So glad it was helpful! I hope you love yours!
I use heat treated walnut oil. 2 sources, one, which I use is from the Doctor's Woodshop and it has carnauba wax in it which flows without heating or solvents. The other is from Mike Mahoney an internationally known bowl maker. I don't use tung oil. I know it is very slow drying, and I have heard some say it tends to leave a film. Not positive. With the Doctor's oil, final coat is applied with a heat gun for better penetration. It takes a week or so for it to cure. Sunlight/UV helps it cure. End grain cutting boards will let the oil penetrate better. Been using it for 20 years maybe, can't remember.
Nice, thanks for sharing that option! Sounds like a solid alternative to try. I haven't experienced the film with Tung Oil, but I know there can be a lot of variables. Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for this video. I have been looking for the perfect finish to put on my butcher block counter tops. Your look amazing! I love that with a little sanding and some more tong oil you can make them look new again.
Awesome, so glad it was helpful and I’m sure your tops will turn out great!! Thanks for watching!
Like this video. Needed this video. Thanks guys. Great job and you did us viewers all a good service here. Now I know exactly what I’m using on my new butcher block!
Awesome! Hope it turns out great!
50/50 tung/citrus is the only wood finish i use. i have used it on furniture and my cabin, even my floors. unlike all other wood finishes, you can just sand and spot reapply away any stains and imperfections. i do not use the stain product. i use natural water based dye instead BEFORE i put down the oil. using water based dye allows you to achieve exact desired color which is not affected by the oil. using stain which is oil soluble means you cannot achieve exact color match and you are introducing chemicals to the process. dyes are far easier, cheaper, natural, and free from fumes as well. if you sand the surface fine, you can also polish apply the last coat of oil so to end up with a very shiny surface finish. as this product is all natural and devoid of petrochemicals, you do not have to worry about poisoning yourself either. the only side effect is that your house will smell like orange julius 🙂
Thanks for sharing all that info - super helpful! I'll need to test that out sometime to use a water based dye, then apply Tung Oil/citrus solvent over it. All the best to you and thanks for watching!
You think like I do!
Hate chemicals
Thank you for your time here!!!
You're welcome!
Two points. One , yes tung oil is good stuff if you are patient. Since the product that you are using has no dryers in it, the wait time between coats increases. I have had a decrease in dry time by setting up a fan to move air across the project ( countertops, chairs, tables ). Tung oil has a different molecular linking pattern to oxygen in the atmosphere than , say, BLO. Which brings me to point #2. Do not use BLO for countertops. A few years back I went to a customers house to look at some changes that they wanted in their kitchen. Maple countertops of Eastern Maple . Quite dark in color with age and using BLO. I pulled out some drawers to get a better look at things, and the underside of the countertops were black with mold. BLO is pretty much a Petri Dish for black mold.
Oh boy, definitely want to avoid anything with mold issues! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. That's a good tip with the fan to speed up dry times too! Thanks for watching!
Glad you used pure tung. Because theres no set minimum when you buy whats called tung oil from most stores. And most dont lable whats in it.
Thanks for sharing!
Try putting a wet cloth under your cutting board when you use it. It will keep it from sliding around to make it safer. A nice bonus is reduction of scratches.
Haven’t heard of that one before but thanks for the tip!
@@FromScratchFarmstead If you’d rather not use something wet, the rubber mesh crisper drawer liners (most dollar stores stock them) work just as well.
Just ordered some dark half for a raw dough trough I’m planning on sealing. Can’t wait 😊 Thanks for the discount code!
@@ohnoyce Good tip! And that sounds like an awesome project! Thanks so much for the support and for watching!
@@ohnoyceso does a silicone cooking mat (Silpat). They also make specific silicone mats for this purpose as well, but they are a little pricey.
I use a white plastic one
It’s never slipped but it’s fairly heavy for plastic.
Excellent video guys, thanks!!!
You bet! Thanks for watching!
Counter tops are looking good!! Nice simple lines to your kitchen.
Thank you!! And thanks for watching!
I've been teaching people that Mineral oil has the least protective effect and it sort of ruins your ability to put another finish on it.
I've used a thinned out pure Tung oil and applied many coats, and sanded afterwards, and then you can do whatever you want, and I think I used a Beeswax as a surface treatment on some items.
I've used many types of finishes on wooden bowls and such, and Walnut oil is nice, but the pure Tung oil is the most durable and I could fully submerge a board in the dishwash water, and scrub, and put up to dry, with no problems of soaking in and warping or splitting.
Awesome, that's super helpful hearing your experience! Thanks for sharing!
Do you apply the tung oil again after you sand it?
@@tagndash01 Many people won't use Tung oil, because it's a process.
I apply a thinned out coat and let it soak in, and wait for it to cure, then I sand it and dust it off, and apply another coat of straight Tung oil, and wait for it to cure again, and I will repeat until the end grain doesn't accept it anymore, and let it cure and sand it lightly again.
After it's totally cured, you can apply beeswax or something like that.
Beeswax doesn't cure or really dry so much, but it is easy to apply and freshen up the sheen.
Just to be clear, I use pure Tung oil, and not the polyurethane blends.
I don't want a film that flakes off.
Wish I had this information when we installed our butcher block 8 years ago. I have used mineral oil all these years. Is there anyway to sand our counters and then use Tung oil?
@@pennydroogsma1948 I've read that mineral oil is incompatible with so many finishes, but maybe you could buy a cutting board, and treat it with mineral oil, and then do tests in spots, and see if another soft penetrating finish with blend in and perhaps go through polymerization, which is the hardening process.
Maybe Nut oils, like Walnut oil, or something that goes through a polymerization process, but builds up.
Test it on something that doesn't matter as much, but use a similar wood cutting board, or even a wooden spoon or bowl, to test it out.
Some people use a Beeswax blend on wood items, and there are so many finishes that don't produce a surface finish that could flake off in food.
Apparently practically all are food safe when cured, but who wants stuff flaking off and getting into their food.
I use Tung Oil when making or refinishing gun stocks for rifles and shotguns, and have never used anything else. It is common knowledge among all gunsmithing businesses. Take that for what it's worth.
Super interesting! Thanks for watching!
you are absolutely correct in using Tung oil on your butcher block and cutting boards. The mineral oil/beeswax process never ever dries,
Good point! Thanks for watching!
Jim is such a gift giver - he gives his wife a. Butcher Block for. Christmas . Wow ! Such Appreciation !
So excited thank you for the information and your blog! Thanks for the savings too. So excited 😆
My Great Grandfather's favorite blessing..
May blessings be under your feet👣 and always be given by your hands 🫴
Awesome! So glad that this was helpful for you! And what a sweet blessing. I love that!
The counter tops look wonderful. I use something similar on all my cutting boards just to keep them looking like they aren't dried out. I am going to see if I can find the product you have used.
Thanks for sharing.
Blessings
Thank you! Glad this was helpful!
I watched this video some time ago and found it really helpful. I'm watching it again because I'm starting my project this week. Thanks again for the advice. Incredibly helpful for a project newbie like me.
Awesome, so glad it was helpful! Hope the project goes great and thanks for watching!
How are you able to sand so quickly? :-) I watch one video today about not using mineral oil for this process and then tonight your video pops up in my feed. I am happy to say that that woodworker's experiment showed that yes, using Tung Oil was the solution. Thank you for your presentation.
You're very welcome and glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Homer Formby used Tung oil and he has books out on it and you can watch the tv shows that show how to use it.
Good to know! Thanks for sharing that resource!
Awesome Tip Thank you
You're welcome!
I used RMPCo Dark Half on the b’block countertops in our historic house…that we sadly didn’t get to enjoy. (due to pandemic, we didn’t get to move in, the guy who was going to leave a position that my husband was going to take…did, so we didn’t move up to MO from
TX) I hope the folks that bought it are enjoying it.
Oh bummer! So sorry that happened. But I bet those countertops looked great. Thanks for watching!
Those govt lockdowns ruined so much for many
Hi there! Great video. I have just purchased a 52 year old house with an ancient looking butcher block island that i am sanding. Can you give an example picture of the half/half vs dark/half oil please?
Hey! Sounds like a fun project! So if you check out this post we did on butcherblock, you'll see a picture of a cutting board we did in half n half. fromscratchfarmstead.com/tung-oil-for-butcher-block/. That was made with a cut off slab of the same butcherblock we used for our countertops, so you can compare that with pictures of the dark half tops we have. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
Now, after my last comment on your Berkey video. This is a great video. I've done research on this, and you hit the nail on the head. What I love is the combination of the Dark Half which combines the citrus solvent and tung oil together. Thank you!
You bet! Thanks for watching!
For both of you- do you find an extra advantage to the added orange peel oil? We are also considering Dark Half and not sure which way to go. Can you share before and after pictures? We arent sure how dark it will get.
Excellent video. I have been researching this topic and come to the same conclusion after watching your video and one by the wood whisperer which did experiments on different finishes. I finally invested in a great quality cutting board and will do as you have done with the lighter finish tung oil. Thank you and have a blessed day
Glad it was helpful! Enjoy your new cutting board and thanks for watching!
I had used Waterlox on mine but stains from food dye or my kids marker’s won’t come up. I made homemade tortillas with my lefse griddle and it was too hot and made a burn mark on my countertop. Thinking about trying the dark tung oil. The finish of Waterlox was nice once I could finally get it smooth and use the best application method. Which was not what they suggested. Tung Oil just seems easier. Especially, with a large family of 9.
Thanks for sharing!! We've been amazed at how well the tung oil has held up to even to so much rough use and tons of cooking!!
Do u like the Lefse griddle otherwise? Blessings on ur 7 kids; hope u have 7 more!
@@YeshuaKingMessiah , I love it! I use it for just about everything that you would use a griddle for. I can do about 5 pieces of French toast on it or 5-6 pancakes on it depending on the size that you make them.
We're building a house and trying to decide what to use for the "backsplash" for the half wall behind our sink. I really like what you used - is it wide paneling with a frame? What is the dark piece directly behind the sink? Thanks for all your advice on butcherblock - we'll be finishing our island top soon and will look into your suggestions!
Hi! So we just built the half wall behind our sink to be about a foot higher than counter height for the backsplash. And then I used leftover trim and shiplap pieces from the rest of our kitchen for that little area of backsplash and painted it. The dark section behind the sink is kind of unique. The cabinet the sink sits in had a fake drawer face on top initially. But to make room for the farmhouse sink that area of the cabinet needed to be cut out and modified. I had that cabinet face lying around and it looked cool so I wanted to use it for something. The I realized it would fit perfectly in that backsplash area! So that’s what we have going on there. Hope that helps and good luck with your project! Thanks for watching!
It looks like shiplap behind the counters
I would rather have a backsplash too. Those walls get dirty in my 50 yrs of cooking I’ve noticed (I’m 59)!
I’ve always wanted extra deep counters so I can line up things along the back but still have enough room to use the counter. 30” deep instead of 24”. I saw someone on a diff channel even put a little shelf in, in the back, just high enough to wipe off counter easily and store jars on or measuring cups, etc. An additional functionality updo!
My kitchen is my workshop and it stays functional, not pretty or staged. It’s beautiful in its productivity. And with a fire engine red Aga, it would be stupendous!
Trying the half and half tomorrow because of your recommendation. Thanks!
Awesome! Hope it works out for you!
@@FromScratchFarmstead worked great!! Thanks
We hv wood and finished with tung. We have had ours for 18 years!
Awesome! That's so great that it's held up for you so long. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video. Doing tung oil this week!
Awesome!! I hope it goes really well!
Super helpful! I just ordered my Dark Half!
Awesome! Hope it works well for you!
Liked the video. Lots of info. Just wish you would have showed the wood more while you were talking. Felt like a lot of info and not as much before after side by side etc. but thank you for the tip
Always appreciate the honest feedback! And can't say we don't agree with you. Having done this a couple years after the fact we have very little actual video/pics of the original process with the tops to work with. In retrospect, it probably would be helpful to take a cutoff piece of butcher block and show how we finished them start to finish. Maybe we'll do a remake and try to improve at some point! Thanks for watching!
Boiled Linseed Oil is food safe if you buy actual Pure "Boiled" Linseed oil, not the stuff that has chemical dryers in it. There is a company, i think they are Swedish, they do an all natural Cold Pressed BLO, its labeled "All Black" Boiled linseed oil. Though, my go to is still Tung oil.
That's super interesting! Thanks for sharing and for watching!
BUT... Boiled Linseed Oil if VERY Flammable... Beware!
I LOVE your countertops!!! Oh my!
Thanks! We love them so much!
I just recently bought a butcher block and made a computer desk with legs I ordered from Amazon.
Nice! Sounds like a fun project! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the helpful video!! You helped me convince my husband that we needed Butch block counter tops. But now I'm completely new to this. How do you clean them? I've used my half tung oil/ citrus solvent mix on them several times but when I wash the counter it feels rough like it's not sealing it. Any helpful tips are very much appreciated!! TIA!
Hey! Awesome that you went with butcher block! Hmm, that's a hard one to diagnose without seeing it and knowing more. We haven't had any sort of roughness when washing them. Like you mentioned, that makes me wonder if they're not sealing properly. Usually the roughness happens when you wipe down raw wood and the grains stand up. Was it smooth after the Tung Oil was applied? I wonder if they might need a light sanding and then reapplying a coat or two of the Tung Oil on top. Also, how long did you let them cure/dry after the initial application. The recommended cure time from RMPC is 30 days. I know that's unrealistic for many, but you want to make sure to at least give them several days to seal up and harden before use. My other thought is to not use anything too potent when cleaning them to make sure you're not stripping away the finish. We usually just use warm water and a rag to wipe them down, or a mild cleaner if needed. Hope that at least gives some tracks to run on! You might also want to reach out to Real Milk Paint Co. to see what they say. Good luck to you!
Has anyone ever not finished them but left them raw? Then they get marks n such on them as they are used. Can u not clean them? Do they swell n crack from wet on them?
I’ve always wondered if it was just a vanity thing like so many things in kitchens & baths.
This is golden advice! Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing your experiences with Tung Oil!
You bet! Hope it was helpful and thanks for watching!
Could you point us viewers to the research you did. Per my research on tung oil, I found that the all parts of the Tung tree are toxic. The University of Florida Institute of Food And Agricultural Sciences found that “all parts of this tree are poisonous. Which would include the pure unfiltered oil extracted from this trees seeds”. Side affects of consumption are nausea.
I got this from TheWoodWorkPlace. Not trying to knock the video. I found it very useful. But , as I stated earlier I’d love some of the things you found in our research.
Thank you 😊
Hey, thanks for your comment and sharing your research! I wouldn't say we did any scholarly research, but looked into the literature that a couple different companies selling Tung Oil produced. We're also big fans of Real Milk Paint Co. overall, before we started using their Tung Oil, and appreciate the transparency and authenticity in the products the offer. Realistically, I'm not sure there is a perfect product out there for the task and for us, Tung Oil was the best of the options we looked into. Over the lifetime of the countertops, very little of the Tung Oil, if any, would get consumed once it's fully cured and set. And even if it was, I'd take my chances with a natural tree oil versus a plastic coating or petroleum based coating. Just some thoughts! There's a lot of info out there to sift through so really do appreciate you sharing what you've found! Thanks for watching!
This has some merit if you consume the cold pressed oil in its pure form but as Tung Oil is a “drying oil” it cures to a solid finish within the wood layering - meaning it is no longer in its pure form and unless you’re gnawing at your counter tops like a ravished rat, you shouldn’t be consuming any of the tiny oil 😊
This is a great video! The only thing I am wondering is how strong is the smell of the product? Is it like a paint thinner strength smell or a weaker smell like interior house paint.
So, the half n half with the citrus solvent is a stronger smell, but it's a really delightful smell. It will smell like your house is filled with oranges for a couple days. But it goes away. There's no smell like paint thinner or oil or anything like that. Thanks for watching!
Question of the day 😂. I live in a basement apartment and as soon as you go down the stairs the kitchen is right there. I need to do a 10’x25” piece & an 8’x25” piece for the 2 kitchen countertops. Not sure on birch or walnut yet, but how bad is the smell going to be? I understand it’s a strong citrus smell but would i need to do it in a garage, or you think in the apartment semi installed would be ok. I can open the front door with a fan blowing out & I have a window above the sink that has a dual exhaust fan that would help, bc taking the tops in and out is a no go, I have a herniated disc 🥴😂. Your tops looking really good! 👍🏼. I ordered their sample kit but I think I already know I wanna do the dark half 😆.
Hey there! It's definitely a strong smell. But very pleasant with the citrus. It does only last a couple days before the smell starts dissipating and you, let alone your neighbors, will hardly notice it. If you have a garage space available, doing it there is always safest with plenty of air flow. Otherwise the fans will definitely help. Sounds like a fun project! Let us know what wood you go with and how it turns out. Good luck to you and thanks for watching!
thanks for this video.. took your advice and purchased milk paint products. sweet couple
You're welcome! Hope you have a good experience with them!
I've made MANY pieces of furniture that were finished with Tung oil. I've also made lots with Shellac, Lacquer, and sprayed Poly. All have their places for me. But Tung oil is a very nice finish that has some advantages for some projects. (I've even done an entire house's floor with Waterlox!) If you do fewer than 5 coats, Tung oil will generally not be particularly shiny. I don't think I'd want a shiny wood countertop. I've used some of the waxes for countertops too, but I haven't been particularly pleased with them. The ones I've used seem to have attracted dust and stain. Monocoat and Osmo coat I think would be fine. They are easy to apply, (but you do need to buff them out well) But I do think that Tung oil is preferable for me. I have found that most folks with nice counters do NOT chop on them, but if they do, I use a card scraper every few years or so and most of that damage comes out. Then another coat of Tung oil is easy to do. The reason I like it better than Mono or Osmo is that in my experience Tung doesn't pick up stains as easily. (like a fresh strawberry or red wine spill). But I will admit that Tung oil takes more time. Especially when I'm finishing with Tung oil for a fancy lustrous and glossy finish. 5 or more coats, and wet sanding in between the last coats.
Thanks for sharing your experiences!
I can’t imagine cutting on any countertop! That’s why I have a cutting board. A nice big one and a tiny one too.
Why do ppl want to cut up their counters?
Thank you! I’ve been looking for something better to use.
So glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
I just refinished my butcehr block this way after watching this video. I do have a question. How do you clean your countertops after use?
Hey! Hope you love them! We've really just cleaned them like you would any countertop with cleaner and a rag and wipe down. But I wouldn't recommend anything too concentrated or powerful for a cleaner. We like Branch Basics which is safe and mild, yet effective cleaner. Or even just water and vinegar would do the trick! Thanks for watching!
Yes! Tung oil is a classic!
I would not use their dark tung oil around food, the dark color is from adding asphalt to the oil and using the d-limonene ("citrus solvent") to dissolve the asphalt. Side note, get some d-limonene for removing asphalt and other gummy messes, its an incredible solvent and made from citrus wastes, not petroleum.
Thanks for sharing! According to Real Milk Paint Co, "The darkened color of Dark Half comes from mixing in a naturally occurring resinous hydrocarbon for color. The resin is non-carcinogenic and does not contain any PCBs."
You helped me find exactly what I was looking for
thanks
Awesome, so glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Get some felt or rubber pads for the chopping board
Good info for my first time using butcher block. Lowe's recommended the Howard Oil & Conditioner. Now not sure to go this route or Tung Oil. There is a video on Tung Oil and its confusion. Will have to view that. Small 5ft top for my base wall cabinets so not like being used for a lot but my small appliances. I'm planning on keep look more natural as I have Espresso Shaker Cabs. Your video has helped me be more confident on my project. Can you come over and cut the top for me.... LOL Thanks so much for your "Advise".
Hey! So glad it was helpful and hope the project turns out for you! No product out there is perfect, but Tung Oil is definitely the best I've tried for butcherblock. Thanks for watching!
Is this food grade? If you mentioned it, I missed this important detail. I would be weary of harmful chemicals ending up in my food.
It is food grade. Sorry, I don’t know if we made that clear in the video. You’d want to wait until it was done curing before eating off of it.
Thanks for your help. This really put us on the right track!
Awesome, so glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
great video folks! reallyl appreciate the info. I made the decision to go with butcher block countertops in my 75 year old kitchen renovation, but I was struggling to figure out which finish to use. I've watched videos on epoxy, polyurethane, and others, but tung oil seems to be a great solution not only for initial use, but for easier maintenance. I've been using Tung oil in woodworking projects for years, so it seems like a very natural thing to use on the countertops.
Do you every have any problems with stains from coffee? I have 3 consistent coffee drinkers in my house, and if I get any cleanup that I have to do over the weekend, it's the coffee that's leaked over or spilled on the top during daily use.
To be completely honest, we haven't had any problems with staining at all on our tops, including from coffee, tea, etc. I'm a coffee drinker too and it doesn't soak into ours at all, just wipes away. Just make sure the Tung Oil fully saturates your butcher block and then has time to cure and it should be pretty resistant to about anything you throw at it. Thanks for watching!
@@FromScratchFarmstead Awesome, thanks for the info! I think Butcher block tops are going to be my thing.
Nice video very informative. I do have a question. How do you guys clean it after food prep with just warm water or what?
Yes or we'll use a natural cleaner like branch basics if needed. Thanks for watching!
I want to try adding some larger, custom tile insets into the butcher block where we commonly set water glasses and pots and pans. Do you have any suggestions? Your counter tops are beautiful by the way! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with us!
Hey! Sounds like a beautiful and functional project! I'm not a tile expert so I'm not sure I have too much to share or recommend. I'd want to understand how the tile and mortar would interact with the wood long term. And if you're notching out some sort of groove that the tiles would sit into you'd probably want to seal that really good with the Tung Oil first before putting the tiles in. This might be one you'd want to reach out to Real Milk Paint Co. about too - they have really great customer support. Hope that helps and good luck with the project! Thanks for watching!
Why not buy tiled hot pads? I find them at goodwills. They hang on the wall as pictures (they have a wooden frame) when not in use. Use them on my table too.
U could make them too I’m sure.
that's a great idea! I will be looking for some! Thank you :) @@YeshuaKingMessiah
I’ve been using hemp oil… fabulous for bamboo tops, plus smells like CBD oil…
Thanks for sharing!
My issue with Tung oil and citrus solvent is the horror stories I’ve heard regarding lingering or unbearable odour?
It’s citrusy for sure but it doesn’t stick around in our experience! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for your advicr. I purchased Dark half from the real milk paint. Excited to try it out.
Awesome! Hope you love it as much as we have! Thanks for watching!
For both of you- do you find an extra advantage to the added orange peel oil?
Whyd you go with Dark Half?
We are also considering Dark Half and not sure which way to go from the orange advantage and hue change. Can you share before and after pictures?
I find the dark half far too dark for any soft woods. I prefer the RMP Half & Half for all wood actually.
I didn't read all the nearly 300 comments so sorry if this has been answered..but what about where the wood is near the sink and wet a lot? This is my biggest concern with butcher block!
Great question! Since doing it this way, it hasn't been an issue at all by the sink area. Previously, when we had the mineral oil/beeswax the sink area was definitely a problem but our countertops have held up perfectly!
Y’all are awesome!
Thanks for watching!
Though Mineral Oil is a petroleum based product, it is considered "Food Safe". (its taken as a laxative) It is basically a "Neutral" product, it is what is left over when they take everything else that is useful or toxic out and Mineral Oil is the byproduct.
I personally can not stand the idea of using Mineral oil on chopping boards or Butcher blocks ect. it does not seal the wood. All you are doing is flooding the wood with oil so that there is no space left for water to get in. But Mineral oil does not dry, at all. It remains in its liquid state permanently, so every time you run your board under hot water you are washing away some of that oil that is in the wood and allowing water ect to replace it. That is why Tung oil and BLO are so good, because they penetrate just as the mineral oil does, but then they change themselves (polymerize) to a state similar to plastic but non-toxic and Food safe. So, deep inside the wood, the oil fills in all the gaps(pores) in the wood then polymerizes and seals the inside of the wood like a polyurethane does on the surface. When you do your maintenance and reseal the blocks, you are only repairing the damage you have done on the surface.(though i dont know how long it takes for the dry Tung oil deep in the wood to degrade) With Mineral oil, you have to flood the wood again as it continues to leech out from the moment you apply it.
That is super helpful! Thanks so much for sharing!
Considered food safe and IS food safe are a matter of legal terms.
GRAS is someone’s opinion even if codified into law.
Think about flipper babies.
Science is bought and paid for. Use common sense, like it appears u are.
I wonder how Tung oil hold up against water damages around the sink.
It has actually held up really well around the sink for us! The key was making sure to get the cutout for the sink completely sealed on the top, sides, and bottom. And then I did just a thin bead of caulk around the sink once it was in place. We try and wipe up any standing water. But after the tung oil cures it really seems to be waterproof. No water spots around the sink. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much for the great tips and how to video! May I ask what type of wood that is?
They're the standard Birch butcher blocks from Menards. Besides our island... that's actually leftover white oak wood flooring pieces that turning a top for our island. But I'd definitely recommend the birch over white oak for countertops. Thanks so much for watching!
I wonder how cheap pine would hold up? Esp if not sealed? Like old timey cabins would have?
Did they replace them often?
Where's the best place to buy butcher block counter tops like those featured in this video? Beautiful stuff. Where did you get your countertops-- did you make them or buy, if bought where from?
We got our from Menards. They're super affordable there and I've been happy with the quality. They're birch tops. Home Depot or other lumber suppliers likely have them too, or you can order custom ones. Menards offer them in 4' or 8' lengths, or a larger size to fit an island. We got quotes on custom sizes from our local lumber yard and it was much much more expensive. Although, I'm sure the quality would be nicer. If you have the ability to cut them down to size yourself, the standard length options are a really great way to upgrade your kitchen at a super affordable price. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
Interesting , thanks .
You're welcome!
Thanks so much for this!! Saved me so much time of research and having to dig through all the options out there.
I have one technical question; why do you not sand past 150 grit?
Hey! Glad it was helpful and time saving! That's a great question. The finer you sand something the less porous the surface can become. So there comes a point where sanding too fine actually inhibits the oil/solvent combo from effectively penetrating into the wood. If you did a really fine sanding you'd get a nice smooth finish, but the oil would only be on the surface and not hold up as well over time. I totally understand that it's a bit of a surprising thing! I was surprised when I finished our wood floors and learned it's typically with floors to only sand down to 80 grit. When it's not a fine/polished woodworking project or surface, it doesn't need to be sanded as fine. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching and good luck!
@@FromScratchFarmstead ahh, ok j see! Thanks so much!!! That is super helpful. I'm so glad to know this! Ok my follow up question is; do you lightly sand in between coats?
@@darkstarboy108 I'd see how your wood responds after one coat and see if it's necessary. If the grains stand up a lot, then you can definitely do a light sanding and go about applying the rest of your coats. I think I did do a very light sanding to knock down the grains, but depending on your species of wood it may not be necessary.
@@FromScratchFarmstead great. Thanks again for your help!
Oh another question! Did you do any finish to the underside or is the tung oil on top the only finish?
Hey there! I did finish the underside too, but I only did a couple coats. I think it is recommended that all sides be sealed so that one side doesn't dry out quicker than the other over time which can lead to warping. Plus, you just never know where spills or messes can happen in a kitchen so it's good to have everything at least somewhat sealed. Thanks for watching!
Did you apply tung oil to your raw countertops before adding the sink? What sealent caulking for sink on countertop did you use, clear silicon??? Curious me... thanks for great video
Yes, I definitely applied Tung Oil before the sink went in. And I even applied it before installing the countertop so that I could make sure that the bottom and sides were fully sealed too. That has held up really well, even around the sink area. I don't remember the exact caulk that I used. I don't think it was a pure silicone, but maybe some sort of siliconized kitchen/bath caulk. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for your reply ! @@FromScratchFarmstead
Which species of wood did you use for your countertops?
I believe they are birch, which have held up really well. They're literally just the stock butcherblock tops that Menards sells for a really affordable price. Thanks for watching!
so to be clear you only use tung oil and not something like a Rubio Monocoat, poly urethane or anything like that to protect the wood?
Yep! Just the Tung Oil cut 50% with the citrus solvent. We applied several coats to our raw butcher block tops, let it cure a while, and they have held up like they're waterproof for us. Thanks for watching!
@@FromScratchFarmstead Sweet! Thank you
Just got ours delivered. Why can't they be stained?
Awesome! Do you mean before applying tung oil? You totally can, we just didn't because we used the dark tung oil which gives it a dark color naturally. Thanks for watching!
Love your countertops. Does using the Tung oil keep a butcherblock island top from bowing?
Thank you! We haven't had any issues with bowing but maybe that has more to do with the wood. Generally if you seal the top and bottom good, they should be pretty stable. Thanks for watching!
Did you sand between the coats? And did you vacuum and wipe (with what?), or just wipe the surface? How many hours or days between coats? Do you think 2 coats would be sufficient?
I'd check the tutorial on the real milk paint co site, they give all the specifics for best practices! Thanks for watching!
Hello! Great video!! What type of butcher block did you buy? I love the look and want to buy the same
Thanks! We have birch. It's the basic butcher block from Menards.
@FromScratchFarmstead thank you so much!!
Hi! I just wanted to clarify - do you use the Tung oil to finish your actual cutting board as well? I have been recently searching how to finish/preserve/maintain a nice wooden cutting board, but haven't found anything that seems 100% ideal yet
Hey there! Yes, our cutting board is finished with the tung oil/citrus solvent blend too! It's held up well for a few years now and is really easy to reapply a new coat on top when needed. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
Love the color on your cabinets. What color are they ? Thank you for everything
I believe they are Sherwin Williams and the color is bisque 😍
I am so glad I found your channel. Does this work fir any type of wood?
Thank you for taking yhe time anf make this video.
So glad this was helpful for you! I think it should work for any type of wood. Real Milk Paint Co has great customer support so if there is a unique type of wood you are considering, I'd check with them!
@@FromScratchFarmstead thank you so much 🙏🏾