CLIMBING FAILS 8!
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- Опубліковано 10 лип 2020
- Hey Guys! This Climbing Fails is braught to you buy a north eastern rain storm. lol What is the best thing to do when stuck inside besides climbing on our home built walls? Well watching some fails of course! Let me know what you think down below...
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First video by Esteban Lahoz
"It is for sure harder than Tarrago Plus"---a 5.14b to the right of Arco Iris. He freed that line in 2016.In this video, taken by Esteban Lahoz, Edu Marin takes flight high on the route with the last bolt a good ways below his feet. The rope finally comes taut some 40 feet below.
Second video by Both Mensik
On the hundreds of sandstone towers in Adršpach, Czech Republic, protection is limited to knotted slings or ropes, and widely-spaced ringbolts. In this video, local climber Danny Mensik starts the route "Orel nebo pana" ("Head or tail") by standing on the shoulders of a friend who is already standing on the shoulders of another friend. When he established the route in 1978, a local legend named Cikán relied on a five-person (!) shoulder stand to bypass the 12-foot blank section at the base of the wall to reach the crack. Mensik says, "As we were only three, it was a bit more challenging."
Grades in Adršpach, just like the ethics and protection, are also old-school. "This route has only had 6 repetitions and is graded VIIc," says Mensik. "If you look at the comparison table it should be 5.9 in USA, but this comparison doesn't really works since VIIc in Adršpach can be anything between 5.10-5.12, not counting the mental difference."
Once established in the crack after the shoulder stand, Mensik got a couple of good knots and made his way up the finger crack, which eventually widens to an easy handcrack and the first ringbolt at 12 meters. The crack is then unprotectable for the next 6 meters, and just before the next ringbolt it gets shallow and thin again.
"Suddenly the crack was very dirty and full of moss," Mensik says, "which caused my fall as I was trying to make another move to reach the second ringbolt. The whipper was completely fine...as smooth as can be. But my belayer hit his elbow while catching me which caused a terrifying look in his eyes and scared me more than the fall itself!"
Third Video by James harrison
Rowen going for the ascent of 'Iron Fist' E5 in Limekilns, Scotland. The top section of this route is pretty spicy. He went back and climbed it a few weeks later. Good lad.
#4k #climbing #fails
One thing I notice is the fall at 8:50 it sounds like there's a thud from the piece hitting the belayers helmet, so good thing he had one!
3rd video: It's impossibly hard to judge if a piece if good when you're placing overhead. It may look solid from below, especially with nuts, and then when you climb past it you realize it's actually bad, or the crack just doesn't taper right for it to resist horizontal pull. Because you couldn't see it before. Often it doesn't work out anyway to place overhead, because you're gonna block where your hands have to go next. Rule of thumb: Place gear where you can see the entire placement well, and in crack climbing pace gear below your hands. When he places the nut you can see that it's deep, but when he first tries to get it seated, it doesn't seat itself but blows out (6:27). He would have seen that if the placement was in front of his chest and not overhead
Im not a climber, but damn, this explanation is concise AF and made me immediately understand your point.
@@davidmcgowan3243 surprised to find a nonclimber in these comment sections
@@lucas29476 I climb trees for hunting so a lot of the knot and safety content is highly relevant to me.
This spot (Limekilns in Fife, Scotland) is notorious for blowing cams due to the soft limestone. It's sort of an unspoken rule to only use passive pro there.
In ideal circumstances that is correct. Some routes, especially aid routes, definitely feature mandatory overhead placements. With that being said knowing what you're getting on is as much important as knowing your placement. Especially as one ups their game to different challenges.
Dude, the circus clip is from the sandstone pillars in Czech Republic, you are not allowed to use any kind of metal protection there so people use knotted slings that they jam into cracks and pockets.
Also climbing on top of other people to make the start easier is a valid tactic there. It's called a building site and is part of the route. A lot of routes have two different grades. One without the help of others and one with. I cant't spot a real climbing fail here (maybe except the missing helmet). It's just the way the people are climbing there.
In addition to that: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saxon_Switzerland_climbing_region
And also chalk is not aloud
Furthermore, this route they climbed, is usually built up with 5 people. And that dude who fell is almost IFMGA guide and slackline god
They have historic rock there. It must be preserved.
The first clip is of edu marin, give him some credit hes a beast
Yeah, we can criticize Edu Marin once we have our own camera crew. And maybe he likes soft catches and his gear not ripping out, in which case safe long falls are softer than short falls. Just saying.
Also, excited screaming is not girlie screaming.
@@bv3164 He can get a soft catch also on a short fall. Also, that route is bolted and he is not placing protection. And generally longer falls are not safer than short falls
2nd video is from a czech sandstone where you can only use knoted slings and similiar type of textile protection (It is difficult to place some protection into completely parallel crack). The upper piece is a ring bolt, those are usually placed in a more difficult part of a route.
About bolts being placed far apart: sometimes it's an ego thing from the people that built the route, sometimes it might be hard to find solid, uneroded rock to place them in. Worse than a bolt that's not there, but in a spot where you might be able to place a sling, nut or friend, is a bolt that's there but not really in solid rock offering a false sense of security where there actually is none. Thats the case in my local climbing spot, which is an old quarry. People worked long and hard here to break the rocks apart, also with explosives. It's hard to find "rock solid" places to put many bolts in some routes.
Also rumor-wise it's a possibility to make the place less attractive especially for new climbers to not get it too overcrowded. Which it is now anyway as many people started climbing outside due to gyms being closed.
The funniest thing to me is being a climber that's afraid of heights. I am NOT a heights enthusiast.
The bolts are so spaced because it makes it easier on the person bolting the route, the climber doesn't need as much gear-meaning less weight, and it is a fun challenge
Yeah and that route looks really overhanging so there's no real danger from falling 40 ft
"is the circus in town" LMFAO
Don't remember subscribing to this channel but glad I did? lol I watched the whole thing. Gonna check out the other episodes. Keep it up mang
Hey Josh ! Cool stuff. Love this channel.
Super interesting insight. Thanks dude
i tend to place more gear than most but for me its piece of mind
Sometimes very spaced out bolts are the result of bolting on lead. The FA party can only bolt where a suitable stance is available. Not saying that this is the case here, but many old school crags in the US are like this (ie. Needles, J-Tree, Yosemite, Tahquitz/Suicide)
That’s an excuse for not carrying extra gear. They could put a rope ascender on the gear loop and a loop you can sit down into. Then they can bolt anywhere they wanted to.
@@KarstRats that's not ground up dude. If you're going ground up you can't put a bolt just anywhere. Seems as if you're commenting beyond your depth.
More food for thought. Thanks!
These are great!
The first route is a 6a/A2 in Montserrat, as the guy is freeing it the protections are further away than in the original concept of the route. Anyways, in Montserrat there are several multipitches where the bolts are far away depending on the grade, it's kind of the bolting culture we have, you can find easy routes with only 3 bolts in 30 meters. A set of friends and nuts is usefull to protect that semi-bolted routes if you don't like the exposure.
6a????? No men, its a 8c+
@@NeuralGamerAI Yes, if you free it it's 8c+, but in aid climb it's 6a/A2
Big fan man! keep up the awesome work!
Will do thanks 🤙🏻
Last fall is Limekilns in Fife Scotland. Fun climbing spot.
Only thought is maybe replaying the videos a couple times possibly with some slow motion action for further analysis. Keep it up love the channel!
Yeah slow mo and frame-by-frame would be awesome
Yeah and with the original resolution as much as possible. I can pause and step through this frame by frame, but it's been re-encoded and resized etc since the original.
So the first acender creates the route hmm sounds cool
Y love it
Great Video
Hi Josh. Have a good day brother
Seems to me like the last clip showed the problem with directional pieces. It's only the top piece that will be pulled downwards in the even of a wall. All others are first nudged upwards as the rope frictions against the carabiner. First leisurely as the climber keeps climbing and pulls rope, but also when the rope yanks upwards if the guy walls. Then, in the event of a fall,all pieces are yanked horizontally from the wall as the rope seeks to be a straight line from the belayer to the top piece.
3:00 "you have to climb in the style of the first climber." That's macho crap. Competitive people are dangerous, not only to themselves but to others. The worst thing you can do is try to be a show-off while doing some extreme sport or push someone into something they are not ready for. Every single person I have known, including myself, who got injured or died, was done in by EGO, and each could have EASILY been avoided. The only person you need to try to outdo is yourself which reminds me of something Anatoly Boukareev said: "there shouldn't be competition between people because the mountain is enough competition." Or something like that. I will leave you with a story about a man I knew who died climbing: he was asthmatic. At the funeral I heard the last attack he had was when he was a kid, but in reality, it was at high altitude the year before he had the one at raineer base camp that killed him. Had he been humble enough to accept this vulnerability and take the meds with him tha twould have saved his life, he would not have died in such a pointless way in '96. He was a wonderful person which is why, still in 2020, after only meeting him a handful of times, I still remember, but it was only today that I learned what really killed him was his stupid ego.
There's a local climb that I backed off of after realizing that the first bolt was a little over 20' up and a few of the footholds are on polished rocks that I didn't completely trust. I looked it up on MountainProject after getting home and discovered that there was a bolt cutting war on that route. People kept wanting to protect the climb right before the slippery footholds and one guy kept coming back and cutting the bolts - there was 4 when I went last. His reasoning: just buy a cam and use the crack to protect it. I don't know about other people but I'm not about to buy a cam for a single climb. IMO, I like Honnold's opinion on this: bolt the hell out of everything and make it all accessible.
Creo que no sabes quién es Edu Marín, es uno de los mejores escaladores de España. A esos niveles no se trata del ego, se trata de ganarte la vida escalando, porque es a lo que se dedican
@@kspobirs I don't think Alex meant that specifically. As you pointed out, you don't have to climb it. Bolting everything taints the experience for everyone. There's plenty of sport climbing if that's what you want.
@@bman6065 During his book tour (one event I went to) someone literally asked Honnold his opinion of bolt vs trad and his statement was to bolt the hell out of everything and make it more accessible to everyone.
Everywhere I looked it listed the climb as a sport climb but it wasn't, it's mixed. Or maybe give it the proper R rating for the runout of the first bolt. I guess we will just have to wait for people to move or die off to bolt it better.
If bolting taints it then let's just no-gear it XD If you can't solo then you shouldn't climb XD
I climb at red rocks primarily and I see chalk x on loose rock all the time. If it's loose enough to come off with a good grab, I make a point to clear the area and knock that shit off. People get mad sometimes. Guess what IDGAF. If I kill myself, my belayer, or another climber over a rock on a wall, I could never live with myself. We already drill holes and attach hangers. No one is going to miss that rock. People will miss climbers or hiker that die from something preventable.
Looks like that the one with not enough gear is in Czech Republic and they are not allowed to use cams in sandstone
They can use fabric cams though
those get heavy af for the larger sizes, so you're only taking a few. also, the traditionalists don't like them.
but yeah, that clip was a climbing fail fail, as these guys were baller (except mb they should wear helmets)
The last crag at Limekilns has very smooth limestone, not much friction for cams.
The 5:06 fail is from a czech sandstone or the area with same style andi it is common than you have spaced gear because it´s some kind of a traditoin i gues.
You can't use normal bolts, because the rock is too soft. So the ringbolts are spaced wider apart to prevent the rock just breaking.
You want the bolts spaced really far apart so you only have to carry like 7 or 8 carabiners.
😂
You should Google the rules of sandstone climbing 😉
Never use a static piece, ie a stopper nut a s a first piece. Use a cam that can rotate under force. I've seen people strip almost 30 feet as they zipper.
Stoppers can be just fine first pieces just gotta know what's at play. If you fall somewhere beyond that it might pull directionally but by then it usually doesn't matter.
I suppose the bolt on the belayers side blew because he was far from the wall, so that when the leader fell the belayer was pulled towards the wall and the piece blew. This is nonetheless dangerous because it gave the leader more slack to fall with. I know he briefly mentioned it but how would you avoid this scenario? Should the belayer have been closer to the wall or where could an extra piece be placed?
Novice here but why wasn't the belay at 5 min not anchored?
1st video: maybe my monitor is tater quality, but aren't there some hangers between where he last clipped and fell, like 1 maybe 2?
I keep telling my friends we need a "sketch factor" rating for routes. Like there's this 5.3 access route at my local crag, but it only has two bolts and they're 20' apart. Sketchier than climbing at my limit lol
Tornadocraver in trad climb the sketch rating is G through X for example 5.8 G means plenty of protection. 5.8 x means no gear can be placed.
@@BetaClimbers oh, okay. I've seen those letters before but didn't know what they meant. Makes sense
Like USA movie ratings.
@@BetaClimbers does it even count as trad climbing if it's a solo until the end
@@sylvernale Free solo trad is the purest form of climbing
2nd video has Stewart climbing from MadTV
I would have done bolts every 13 to 15 feet on the 1st clip doing it at 20+ feet seems to risky to me
It seems odd to me that so many belayers don’t anchor themselves or the system. I haven’t climbed in a very long time so maybe this is common nowadays?
I will never do any climbing with my safety reliant on trad gear, so many fail videos with pieces popping out its ridiculous.
How did the first guy not break his legs? I ve never went lead climbing but these smashes against the wall always look so painful on the legs
Because the rope took way more impact than him swinging back in the wall. By far more and it was very steep
Great analysis mate.If you got the gear why not use as much as you can
the plural form of analysis is analyses.
3rd clip: that helmet is either really bad or he's using it wrong if he had to keep adjusting it so often. It's better than nothing of course, but he should definitely get a better one.
I had a cheap one that always kept moving and bothering me. I took it off for pictures at anchored stops because if was so ugly, too (bad idea I know). Just recently got a decent one and the difference is ABSURD. A good helmet is a helmet you forget you're wearing. It shouldn't move and it should be comfortable. Pay extra if you must, or you're just throwing money away.
How can I send u clips
Bryan Dearstyne you can Dm my instagram at @betaclimber
If I do a first ascent, establishing a new route, and I do it free solo, does that mean that anybody else that comes along behind me has to climb it in the same style? What if it will take gear? Just playing devil's advocate. Kind of...
That logic albeit valid at face value, flies in the face of the problem. That being when a route is put up in traditional style, then someone comes behind way after the fact and bolts it. The argument of the retro bolter is "well, just don't clip the bolt if you don't like it". Completely ignoring the change of experience. I'm not implying that to your statement. But here in Chattanooga at the unofficial crags way to many people don't know what shame is.
They space the bolts out to save money so they can bolt other routes that's the old school method
And to save time. Back in the day all the bolts were hand drilled and it could take up to 20 mins per bolt
Feedback: When you are discussing these, can you do some slo mo? :)
Will do thanks for the feedback
hi 👋 'why you running away?'
so if Alex Honhold just free solos a first, that's it...no one is allowed to climb it?
Considering Honnold has never done a ground up FA free solo of anything notable, that's not an argument I'd make. Unless you're talking about a highball he did in Bishop. Then no, don't bolt it.
In several videos you mention that you will get more info on the climb, why not get the info before you make the videos so that you can give us the most info possible on it?
Good point most of it is sent to me and it’s pretty hard to find anything. Usually ppl end up commenting and adding some great info. Now that I have a discord I might be able to get more info from them. I’ll try harder. Lol 😂 🤙🏻
I am sorry, but this analysis sucks, the last one was pretty good, but the others rubbish. Do some research!! Say the names of the routes and climbers and get to know the story behind these route, maybe than your "analysis" would make some sense ... Hope that's helpful, just trying to give some constructive feedback :)
Man, you should really put more effort into your research, before ranting about videos of other climbers and then call it analyzing them....
So here are a few things that you got fundamentally wrong and more than anything else portrait a picture of you as someone who doesn't know a whole lot about climbing regarding to the clips he's talking about (and I really don't mean to insult you here.) If anything, take it as constructive criticism and what to improve for this kind of content. I think you can get so much more out of all this "analyzing climbing fails" than what you're doing right now and the whole climbing community could benefit so much from it!
The first clip is of Edu Marin on one of his new projects. It's supposed to be at least 8c+ (5.14c). In hard (bolted) routes the person who places the bolts, usually places them there, where they predict to have a more or less good clipping position. So since such hard routes often take such a long time to then actually see a first ascent, it can happen, that for example one section is just so much harder than anticipated during the bolting process, that it's just too inefficient to clip that bolt, but better skip it and cruise quickly through that section until you reach the next bolt. Sure you'll take a big whipper in case of a fall, so you shouldn't do that near the ground or with an unexperienced belayer (which Edu both didn't do here).
In my opinion this whipper of Edu was not a fail, but just one of probably dozens of falls he is taking on a new project. You could have maybe better have pointed out here, what he did outstandingly well, compared to other fail videos for example.... Look at his foot work. He steps so many times from one side to the other of the rope and is always so aware where is feet are. He could have slipped at any second and would have been totally safe to not get tangled with his legs in the rope and falling upside down.
Anyway, just some thoughts. Dunno if you're even reading this ;)
Cheers from Germany, and hope to see some more in depth analysis climbing fail (or win?) videos here in the future.
Lykanthrop you bring up a great point sir thank you for the very detailed comment. When I was reading about Edus climb I came across some info that he requested from the first ascent party to add more bolts to the project . Which begged the question should bolted routes just have as many bolts as possible (of corse in places where clipping is best.) But you are right that was more of a climbing win and that would make a video great series as well thanks for the idea. I’ll try harder next time it’s kinda of hard to get it all, with out a script and on the fly for me.
Was really surprised at this comment, then saw this person is from Germany and it made more sense haha
Don't bolt
I'm really sorry but that lot of rubbish you are telling... The first clip is Montserrat its an trad area with a lot of climbing Coulter the sekond clip is the oldest climbing area in the world with the oldest climbing Ethik part of this is what you can see please inform your self correct before telling rubbish. And not everyone likes sportclimbing so long falls are part of the game for them and if you are not feeling comfortable with long bolt distances then you should leave the climb
do alot less talking and way more than 2 or 3 falls and again men using a pink rope thats why he fell for sure
Bro…u the bst