Climbing Fails 9 (Pro edition)
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- Опубліковано 31 лип 2020
- Hey guys in this one we take a look at some dangerous techniques the pros use when pushing the limits. We can learn a couple things here about the dangers of pendulum swings. Hope you enjoyed, if I mist anything or if you have anything to add leave it down below!
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On the Joe Rogan podcast Alex briefly talked about Tommy's fall and said he had just enough warning and time to jam himself into a corner and brace for impact.
Source?
@@alexsosic swagger in sarcasm. Good man
Well... This video makes trad climbing seem super safe ;)
"Trying to make a name for themselves" lol!
I think he’s commenting on the fact that sponsors tend to support athletes who get attention, and this is leading the pro climbing world to attempt more dangerous climbs. If you watch the red bull documentary below you see exactly what I mean. Brad Gobright, Emily Harrington, etc.
@@MusicBent I think you missed the joke. Honnold and Caldwell "making a name for themselves" is the joke. They're both insanely famous already.
@@Mdjagg Fame is something that needs maintenance, though. I get your point, but it's still not wrong to say it like he did.
Great content. Proper analysis. Winning that close to the edge of safety doesn’t taste as sweet. Tommy definitely had camera shame shyness. Way to call it!
I’ll never climbed in my life besides being a kid and climbing trees and what not.
I’ll been binging your videos since last week sometime. And I’m hooked and connived a few friends of mine to go the local indoor climbing place
Right on 🤙🏻
Very fun and informative videos! Keep up with this climbing fails man.
Just watched all 3 parts of this climb again on redbull, from the link in your description. Just incredible and inspiring. Rip Brad, the previous record holder! 🙏
Very good material I haven’t seen before.
Thank you for that!🙏
That was one hell of a whipper.
Yes film the nose !! That would be awesome
weird to me a dude who started climbing to get away from people is now the most famous climber on earth
You are the best man!
Josh these videos are great they're fun and I learn so much
I have to disagree with simulclimbing being the most dangerous way of climbing. While they are certainly pushing it to the extreme and adding a lot of risks to shave off minutes (climbing is what you make out of it), there are good reasons for simulclimbing. Belaying pitch by pitch is very time consuming and many alpine climbs simply cannot be done fast enough (to avoid getting into the night, afternoon thunderstorm, etc). The only alternative fast enough would be going ropeless ín these sections for which a running belay is the safer alternative.
The other case is climbing with bolted anchors and a blocking pulley (micro traxion, etc). In this case the second will no longer rip the leader off the wall if he falls. Of course, it is not as safe as belaying pitch by pitch but this is far from a 30m fall and can be done until medium difficulties while still saving a lot of time. I personally found that having a walkie-talkie for communication is really important in this case to know when you have to climb slower to match the speed of your partner in a harder section
Right climbing is only as dangerous as you want it to be. Well said! 🤙🏻
Subscribed for the nose!!! Let's goo!!
Subscribed for the nose!
Yeah I'll stick to my single pitches
My climbing partner & I used simulclimbing on the Grand Teton, but we aren’t professionals, though we didn’t have any falls. We would meet every 3-4 rope lengths however, because we would swap who’s the leader & trade all the protection the follower had cleaned.
Jonathan Nagel I’m assuming it was low grade. I personally wouldn’t simul anything over 5.7 unless I was climbing with some one very skilled. You really have to have a lot of confidence in your partner and yourself to not make any mistakes. Must have been one hell of a great view 👍🏻
BetaClimbers - yes it was a popular route I forget the name of, but busy as a Sunday golf course, with teams frequently passing one another. There were few moves I’d say 5.8, and only one real moment of exposure: blindly leaping around a corner the size of a refrigerator. Whoever did it first must have taken a mirror on a stick up there, because it’s 1,000’ down with no visual on what lays ahead.
@@BetaClimbers Theoretically you could simul climb without risking a fall bigger than you would normally leading a pitch if you kept the rope tight and clipped it as often as you normally would. In practice people run it out when they simul so that lead blocks can be longer with a smaller rack, and obviously you need a solid partnership to do it effectively, but it's a really fun way to cover a ton of ground. It's rad to crush the 200m of 5.6 in 30 minutes do get to the fun 5.10 climbing.
Nice looking desktop man.
Ok subbed, start driving out to the nose. TIA
These are educational, thanks. You should have some replays while your talking maybe.
That was by far the biggest fall I've ever seen
4:38
I subscribed for that, waiting for you to climb the nose! ;)
Crazy!
Wow didn t know about this fall, superlucky outcome is still a big understatement, smart climbers have died for much less!
Where Alex dropped the rope, it's like 5.5 or 5.6; heck, I led that section free:). However, Tommy was in sustained 5.9 or even awkward 5.10 where he fell.
I subscribed for the nose
With Tommy's rope going off your screen, I'm still struggling to understand the geometry of what happened with his fall. Any chance you could demonstrate with a shoestring on the floor or something? I'd really like to understand what caught his fall, and where the gear was.
I'm assuming there was another piece of gear or anchor of some sort above Alex (off screen) that Tommy had already clipped. Tommy was well above this last piece of protection when he fell, and Alex had just unleashed all that extra slack. The rope tied to Alex's harness combined with whatever piece of protection Tommy had clipped caught Tommy's fall.
this was a great analysis of the the danger with simu climbing based one thise famus climbers, well made
Kelvin Climber appreciate the comment! 🤙🏻
Hey Josh.
Can you make some videos on building a trad rack? Also maybe different types of anchors for toprope?
Loving the vids man 👍
Josef Berns will do thanks for the idea!
Close call !
Even the Huber Brothers werent simul climbing on their El Capital Speedrun
Correct. And one them took a dangerous fall and got pretty badly injured. Scary stuff.
Yeah Single pitches for me....✌🏽😃✌🏽
Don't knock it till you try it. Doesn't have to be hairball just to get some real exposure. I find it quite relaxing
Man just said they were trying to make a name for themselves
2 hours versus 5-8 days.
How long do you think would have taken you if you were to have climbed as light as Alex and Tommy? Provided someone else would have brought all the extra weight up for you.
Cheers
I'm guessing they either short fixed the rope or had some sort of progress capture that wouldn't shred the rope in case of a fall. If you ever figure out how they did it, you should update us with the info.
Edit: Just watched the video from the source. I see why you are confused because I'm now more confused as to what happened after watching it. It sounds like Alex was tied in with no short fixing or progress capture. As far as I can tell, he should have been ripped up the rock like you said. I'd love to hear from him and Tommy with the actual explanation.
Someone said that on Joe Rogan alex explained that he jusrt had enough time to brace himself against the rock as hard as he could!
Yup, I grabbed the rope on a fall, dang, it didn't remove the skin but definitely blistered. Not fun.
Any thoughts on the safety/danger level of simul climbing on a sport multipitch, with bolts every 3 meters?
Rostam likes rock it is pretty difficult to control the amount of slack the leader is getting. This can be a problem if he has a falling and hitting a ledge hazard or anything of the like. A fixed belay can watch and protect the leader much safer. But as the grades get easier and the likelihood of a fall decrease you can say so then does the “danger”. It is definitely a more risky form of climbing but is quicker.
As you can see Alex has to have Tommy on belay with a gri gri just to try and manage slack so while he is climbing he is always adjusting that, which is pretty difficult if your on anything hard.
So to answer your question it all depends on the particular hazards of that route. Both the leader and belayer should know the route very well and know when to slow down and protect certain areas. Now if the route is all 5.3 I’d imagine it would be like alpinists walking across an ice shelf protecting each other from a crevasse fall how be it safer because they have “bolts” between themselves. It all boils down to the climbers skill in the end. A bad belayer can me much more dangers then a good simul belay. Really hard to put an over all danger rating. So bolts... I’d say yeah could be safer depends. Lol
the issue becomes the amount of quickdraws you're carrying, if you end up having to meet up every 2 pitches you don't save much more time than you would pitching stuff out
Holy crap... Definitely a rated fall on that rope count now 😅
For one that was not a uiaa fall. Second you don't get a total number of uiaa falls in the life of a rope.
@@rushthezeppelin apologies for not breaking out a calculator and bunch of guesstimations to have an argument about what the actual physics of the fall were, but the comment was more about a "I would want to check my gear" sentiment than manufacturing standards. Peace ✌
At 5.57 when Alex "drops the rope" and it says he is still tied in. They must be using two ropes for that to be possible, no?
After the fall, how is the "V" out to the pendulum gear still there, didn't he just untie? Am I missing something or is the editing mixed up?
He was “tied” into two places. The end of the rope and his grigri. He takes Tom off belay from the grigri which drops all the slack out for Tom. Alex’s next step would then be to reach the rope above him and put it back into the grigri. By doing this he essentially jumped up above the protection to his left he would then have to untie from the end of the rope and pull the slack In from under the grigri to pull the rope off the protection to his left. He could have made a fatal error here and completely untied from the end and the grigri to try and save some time be he stayed tied in to the end.
@@BetaClimbersThanks for explaining this. So the "catch" was basically the full rope length?
@@andrewdineen2387 Yepp exactly
Thank you - I was trying to figure out how he was getting above that protection on the left
...it's coming from the pros
Would you consider tall as advantage in climbing?
I thought its a disatvantage cuz taller -> more weight -> faster exhausted, higher risk of slipping/falling due to the weight
i loved to climb trees as a child but my body said some years later "yeah, 191cm and 110kg is your go to" ...
and im always too heavy/big to climb old trees i loved
It depends on the climb. In some cases a greater reach allows you to get to better holds. On other routes, you can get tangled on longer limbs in a tight position. Overall, it's probably height probably helps more than it hurts, but something will be tricky either way.
WEIGHT is absolutely a bigger factor, but height does not necessarily equal weight. I'd say the key to climbing hard often comes down to a strength-to-weight ratio.
Simul climbig Is like nonstop?
François Yepez yeah.
Thnks, great video!!
Isnt the reason Alex didnt get yanked because that pro had a micro traction on it??
Judging by how much slack got sucked up and how far Tommy fell id say there was nothing acting as a stop like a trax between them at that point. If there was though that rope would have been really mest up after that fall.
I broke my tibfib on a pendulum swing:(
Ouch
Holy fuck
Can you talk about hazel findlay’s dad?
hey man, can i ask u what's your height? i'm 1,67 meters, i think its about 5,5 in feets (who measure things in FEETS hahahaha jk), and i'm a REAL newbie, like, i've climbed in gym a few times yet, i'm also 28 y/o, i wanna know if u have some tips, and i love to find content with short people and others like me (that started way older than majority)
BTW, greaaaaat content, awesome videos, cheers from Brazil!!
working on your hip flexibility is great, especially for smaller people. Being able to be closer to the wall gives you much more range. And work on your foot technique, there are tons of videos for that, both things will help you a lot. And, most important, climb climb climb :D
@@bemde thanks dude!
I notice that pro climbers that specialize in trad/big wall/mountaineering tend to "distinguish themselves" by turning it into a daredevil thing. Pro sport climbers are just doing insanely difficult routes but with similar safety precautions as any hobbyist.
Trad/big wall/ mountaineering have much greater inherent risks than sport climbing
They are putting 3 pieces every 1,500 feet.
Are you sure about these numbers?
Jen Yates that was an exaggeration the nose is 3000ft so I’m sure they put more then 6 pieces in. Maybe Brad and Jim did that. 😂
Rock climbing / competition. Doesn't seem like a wise mix.
errores de los mejores? suerte que iban con cuerdas
Wow - These guys are the pros I will never be - but here they look like they made some pretty foolish mistakes.
Is that your computer tower.
4K editing machine!...or computer yeah.
They use a special petzl device to simul climb.
tryitout - yeah have seen them use the trax like I use but I think they must use one with out teeth and more like caming device. Can’t imagine the rope damage you would get from 100 ft whipper on any of those devices.
Would they just leave that piece of pro behind??
hamishlivo yeah it’s probably an anchor set up an a couple bolts. But they where running up that thing probably every other day if not everyday. I wouldn’t be surprised if there was an note that said please don’t touch 😂
46th
I unsubscribed and resubscribed so now you have to vlog the nose or else you are a liar. Thanks
Sheep Music 🤣 I guess I have to now!
First!
Does your wife get notifications from UA-cam not from you, Josh? That's funny :)
I actually do 😂 I fully support his channel!
She also has an unfair advantage because I scream “ITS UP” just about every time. Gunna be a hard one to beat! 🤣
I love you, guys! You are awesome 🤗
explained in a very weird way. One clip, he cuts the rope lose and is basically doing free solo. Next clip other climber falls and is caught by belayer we just saw unclip. wtf? Anyway, these guys are basically free soloing in a slightly less dangerous way. With free solo, absolutely nothing can go wrong or you die. Here, something can go wrong and you MIGHT still survive. It's not a fail when they do it knowingly, and it's their profession. And I don't really think they need to "try to make a name for themselves". They already did.
Alex had just United and didn’t have it anchored, he had to wedge into the crack
Sorry about reply to dead thread. Since the other reply to you wasn't clear, Honnold had the end of the rope figure8 tied to his harness, then a bunch of slack, then passed through the grigri, then up to tommy. He dropped what was on the grigri, and said he had just enough warning to wedge himself into the rock to catch tommy with the rope end tied to his harness. That's why there was so much more slack in the system than tommy expected, and why tommy didn't fall to his death. Seems like some friction between all the rope and the pieces/rock helped Honnold. Check him out on Rogan for the story.
Hearing Honnold talk about free soloing only things he "knows for a fact" he can do without falling, I think Honnold would say this climb was more dangerous than him soloing cap. He seemed much less in control and took some falls here with unknown amounts of slack in the system. Doesn't seem smart for someone that seems decently calculating like him.
Beta Climbers: the channel where a gumby talks trash about things he knows nothing about
😂
Trying to make a name for themselves, WTF!
This video is so slow