Epic Climbing Fails!
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- Опубліковано 30 жов 2020
- How many Fails can we find today! Hey everyone we have an awesome episode today I tried to jam this one in with as many fails as I can find. Hopefully you find these episodes useful, it is much easier to learn from others mistakes than your own, I think. Let me know what you think and if I mist anything please leave some info down below. Thanks!
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You guys asked for more so here is probably the longest climbing fails episode I ever made. Let me know what you think!
Entertaining and informative :)
Thanks for taking it easy on us😂 I’m blaming it on the belayer.😂love the videos though man
@@joecoe521 all in good sport 🤙🏻
2:00 poor rappelling technique. If he had his brake hand low behind his butt or meaty part of the thigh and uses his right hand to control the decent and not the device, he would not have decked
@betaclimbers
This might seem like an odd request but, could you do an analysis of questionable instructions from other UA-cam “instructors”? There’s so much information and so many UA-cam “experts” out there I think it would be beneficial to explain what NOT to listen to on the internet.
I volunteer with the sheriffs search and rescue so I have training in technical rope rescue but, a lot of these climbing things are foreign to me. I was in a climbing gym for about a year 4 years ago, injured my knee 3 times over the last few years so I haven’t been able to get back until now so, I’m signing up at a climbing gym again to make some climbing friends but as of now, I have no climbing friends haha
I’ve been watching a lot of your videos and you’re obviously very knowledgeable and your audience is growing and I think it would be beneficial to me and others.
Thanks dude 🤙🏻😎
"I just wanted to show yall how I was conceived"
Did anyone notice that Pixies song playing in the gym? " With your feet in the air and your head on the ground". Pretty darn funny if you ask me.
🙃
first time leading and the dude goes for the big overhang, interesting choice
A buddy of mine just got lead certified and told me that he wants to try a super overhung route that experienced guys struggle through. I told him he might wanna rethink that one😃.....People legit don’t understand that leading is NOTHING like top roping, and you really need to be a strong climber before trying it, especially really overhung routes.
Well in most gyms the lead is the overhung things most of the vertical walls are top rope so it’s hard to avoid
@@ooyyeeaahh9003 most gyms have both as options actually. You can choose to lead steep routes or stick to more vertical climbs, but some people choose the steep routes because of ego (they look more impressive).
Indoors i like the overhung routes on lead because the falls are safer. Outside it's way more mental and with a good belayer and proper route your fall should be safer than a slab or face climb depending on the terrain.
I am weak outside (haven't acclimated yet and need to trust gear again just like i did when starting in the gym) and the easier routes sketch me out more because if i fall i will get F'd up. The harder routes or overhung routes i will probably fall and hit nothing or little.
Some times i pick sketchy routes inside to lead that i TR or know i can lead it. If i fall it will be bad but it forces me to calm myself and make myself focus and do what i know i can do. If i worry about falling i will fall so i tell myself i have to focus and do what i know to do and try to pretend i am on TR.
Bad belayer. Definitely not a good choice on any wall especially overhung. Just got to that part. I am always nervous if i hear my belayer talking to someone else and i am on a difficult route. Belayer trust is huge and some times hard to find.
Not sure if it matters anymore but hey that's me in the blue shorts and my dog Tank! Just clearing things up, I had just given those guys their belay test, they said they were relatively new to it but they did great with their process, commands and safety checks while climbing the route we test our climbers on which is a more vertical 5.9 (which you can see the other guy struggling to untie from. So woohoo they passed their lead test, as I was getting the third his belay card I saw them hopping on this 11b and figured they did pretty well on their test so they'll be fine, that was definitely not the case as you can see in the video. Needless to say I spent about another 45 minutes working with the belayer and his belay technique and had them lead under my supervision.
As for the river stones on the ground, the gym opened originally in 1994 (making it one of the oldest gyms in the country), our company took it over in 2016/17 I believe and the river stones were the best tech they had at the time. They actually work very well in displacing force upon impact, it's like 2-3 feet deep. As for why that system is still in place? It's expensive to remove, aside from labor to get the rocks out of there it's like 15k just to have them hauled away then another bunch of $$$ to get new flooring, I'm gonna assume like 45k+? Anyway I've been working there a year, great sets, super friendly environment, and a very tight community. And while there is a front boulder that shares the same river stones for "padding" there are only ever sets of like V3 max, there is another boulder area in the back of the gym with new 12" thick fixed boulder pads like you see in newer facilities.
lame
This looks like my gym. Is this San Diego
I can watch skateboard fails, snowboarding and skiing fails all day long but something about climbing fails fill me with anxiety
Broken Carabiner: 5:41
This video with an analysis is from "Weekend Whippers" from Rock and Ice. From the analysis, it seems that the carabiner was loaded off axis. In this case, the carabiner was loaded over an edge (the quicklink). Depending on the carabiner position on the edge, this can reduce the carabiner strength by 60% (Petzl).
When placing quickdraws, gear, setting anchors, etc. always inspect them and make sure that loads are inline with the spine of the carabiner. Make sure that there aren't any bumps or edges in the rock or gear that can compromise the carabiner's strength.
Petzl has a really good article on this topic called "Examples of Dangerous Carabiner Loading". It covers a lot of different loading scenarios.
Do your own research, learn from certified instructors, stay safe, and have fun.
In this situation if you couldn’t remove the quick link, wouldn’t you want to place your draw underneath the quick link? Then it couldn’t hinge on the link
@@JK-420 If the carabiner is potentially taking a life-dependent load it should always be at the bottom. You should ALWAYS avoid putting your primary load-bearing device anywhere but the base of a bolt.
“I just wanted to show you guys how I was conceived” 😂
Love your videos! As a beginner i learn a lot from them.
Thanks for sharing.
Have not climbed for over a decade... saw that untied figure 8 and yelled in a second, that's a killer.
It's a bowline... They do recommend a double bowline though which is safer and both figure 8 and double bowline can be used
@@KamakaZex313
With respect, that is not a bowline. Not even an attempt at a bowline knot. It’s clearly an incomplete figure 8 follow through knot and evidence that neither climber nor the partner know what the hell they’re doing.
I’d laugh but it’s too serious.
12:40 thats my homie on the right climbing with the lady, hes super funny and distracting. I bet that belayer was laughing at him distracted lol
I was gonna say the belayer was looking at the cute climbing chick! I would - climbing girls are hot!
12:55 the Pixies wanted his head on the grund and they got it😂
I like how that first dude keeps cranking as he’s falling.
I think In the first video He didn't hurt himself because he was a champion.
Love it and keep them coming. You crack me up almost every video!!
I love your fall analysis videos! Basically I spend all my time between bursts of laughters and FMR screaming which is funny to watch by itself, I would say. "This guy has a serious case of jaundice" :-) :-) :-) It killed me.
Almost looks like he has a case of South Park head-itis
Putting a draw on top of the quicklink and loading it, will definitely be a potential point of failure. Just clip in under the fixed gear.
why not just undo the quicklink? I get that you might not want to fiddle with it if it makes you lose a send, but he fell several times already
Clipping the hanger under the quick link is the easiest way while on lead.
@@shoqed If they've been there more than a week, quicklinks are usually seized in the closed position
If by under, you mean under but still inside the same hanger as the quicklink, that should be better and I have done the same before. However, even under there is some risk of the quicklink preventing the free pivot of the carabiner. In some scenarios it might be safer to clip into the quicklink, just need to use your own judgement.
Yes clip the bolt hanger under the quicklink so the biner isn’t levering against it. Suprised the commentator couldn’t figure that out.
Awesome video! Thanks for the taz2! I'll be getting a lot more sweet beta climbers gear in the future!
Looking at the crack he's lying back on he could have put in a cam for more protection.
Very funny moments in this as usual. There's no way I'd tell someone to climb that overhang on their first go. Super agree about yelling at the climber about needing to clip. Kind of amazing that guy was so fearless... I'd be trying to high clip like crazy to be safe.
Learning from other people's mistakes. Thankful for the internet.
The great indoors - hahahaha perfect
Keep em coming josh love the content
Ah classic, the first-time leader belayed by the first-time belayer. What could go wrong!? Love the video format btw!
Thank god the indoor climber had a mask on. The risk of death from covid is much greater than from decking. 💀
The guy who had his quick draw break because it was on top of quicklink happened because of the lever arm that was created by the quicklink. A carabine is designed to have the load pul strait down along the back of the carabiner, but when the load was applied during the fall it pulled the quickdraw at an angle it was not intended to. most falls generate approximately an 8Kn force on your last anchor point and in the situation described in the video could not handle that load.( I saw a video doing a brake test with this condition and the carabiner broke at about 3.7 Kn.) Always have your quickdraw or anchors under any chain or quicklink at the bolt.
Yep, and how about people NOT leave quicklinks. Carry a couple of bail biners. No biggie. They're cheap. Also, I don't bail much, but I've decided on bolted climbs to leave two biners on two bolts so if the top fails, I've got the second as back up.
4:04 So funny seeing Adam Ondra make it into a fail video just slapping onto his girlfriend. :D
Wow! 😂😂😂I didn’t even realize who that was. Awesome 😂😂😂
Dude I was like WHY AM I SEEING THIS I JUST WANTED MILD BLOOD at the prank clip lol
Best Saturday morning show out there!
Awesome stuff, love these videos becuase i learn a lot and there fun. 💪🏻
that video with the two noobs lead climbing was at my local gym..... and yes their rock flooring (which is also around half their boulders) hurts...
It's gravel though, right? Not marble as suggested in the video.
Gravel is generally nicer to fall on than just regular floors. I wouldn't want to land on gravel bouldering, but I would definitely prefer it to the floor of the rope area in any climbing gym I've ever been to.
@@Akegata42 yeah it’s gravel
@@Akegata42 We have this weird hard foam floor. Apparently people have fallen from 17 meters on that foam floor and walked away with a broken leg.
@@timonix2 how did they walk away with a broken leg? Hopping perhaps?
No idea how I ended up on this video, but I can't stop stairing at this dudes hat.
Great video Josh! That clusterf*** anchor was hillarious. The first picture is a great teaching example how not to do it. That gym looked like it had small rocks as the floor, I've havent seen anything like it before. Congrats Derick on winning the Taz Lov 2!
Yup. Definitely sounded like he fell on pea gravel. Growing up on playgrounds of it, I'm entirely too familiar with the sound of a body falling onto it.
Underground climbing is caving. You da man
19:44 I remember about 6-7 years ago, a woman died in Germany because she hadn't tied the figure- 8 properly, and it slipped out when she was on top of a climbing wall (climbing toprope).
happend to me, i almost died. i was an axperienced climber. always check your partner before starting a climb it's so easy to forget something
@@psybigz I've seen experienced climbers who don't do the buddy check. Always freaks me out when they gloss over something. One mistake could kill, and it has. I don't want to die or be responsible for someone else dying because one of us forgot something.
I concur with your blooper findings. Good looking out hoss.👊🤘💪😎😎
Clipping on top of the quick link can snap the carabiner as it creates a lever. Clip under the quicklink.
There’s gold to be found with arborist’s videos.
A mate of mine was climbing thunder crack at mount arapilies Australia back in the eighties. About half way up he realised that his rope was only looped through his harness. Not tied in .
He managed to down climb.
He also had a head full of acid at the time 🤣.
I miss the old days.
Soloing tiptoe ridge naked on acid
Im going to have nightmares about that 3 point anchor
@10:35, @BetaClimbers, too true! In the Army, I was a qualified rappelling instructor and the 1 thing they taught me, since all we used was an old style D ring and a tied Swiss seat, was INSPECT YOUR EQUIPMENT, TRUST YOUR EQUIPMENT BUT ALWAYS INSPECT IT.
@15:15, that could be a somewhat old video. I remember older gyms used to have recycled rubber floors (chewed tires), this could just be gym padding.
That last figure 8: wow! Didn’t even get thru the first loop around. Phew!
The indoor ground fall fail is at Vertical Hold in San Diego... I climb there. Still have no idea why they chose loose rock as the "padding" material for the floor of a rock gym.
Believe it or not, this was pretty standard flooring in gyms for a long time. Gym climbing in the 90's was a dusty, dirty time.
Realism?
First gym I climbed at in the late 80's, the floor was your standard rubber backed carpet. They shut it down a couple of years later after a dude decked and became a quad. It is still way softer than hitting the ledge you are belaying from when you have a fall on multi pitch after your first bit of gear goes in.
Just went climbing today for the first time. I went to this same gym
Another great vid! Would love to climb with ya if you're ever in the WNC/Looking Glass area
Thank you, man! The pictures are amazing 😂
Climbers are some of the funniest ppl ever
true word.a airbag full of rock won't mind a bump or two.I'm 57 now,and sure don't bounce like I used to.
I subscribed today ! Thank you !!! 😎
New here. Listening to him talk about the technical stuff sounds foreign but I’m loving it
Welcome to the underground. You will catch on!
14:35 The belayer not only did not pay attention at all and stood too far away from the wall, he also let the rope slip through his belaying device; otherwise he would have been pulled up by the rope at least to some degree (there was not soo much slack that he wouldn't habe been pulled up at all). As he shows no vertical movement up at all, I would assume he actually did not belay at all!
That "figure-8 not-quite-follow-through" is gonna give me nightmares.
Love it baby!
Great opener
That rope swing is super popular and safe. They didn’t take in enough slack, and jumped on it
Hi, I saw first fail some time ago, and as I remember, the fall started because rope was wet from some point (rest was under overhang, held closer to the rock by that daisychain) so the grigri sliped a bit and as you said guy panic-gripped grigri handle.
Love your little Iggy at the very beginning! I have a couple and love them to death.
Some scary stuff you showed us. My rope work is mainly underground but if I'm not rigging the anchor, then I'm keeping an eagle eye on whoever is. I can't believe the number of people who will clip into a rope an go over an edge without every even looking at the anchor. Even if you aren't the rigger, you should know what constitutes a safe anchor!
my friend took 3 falls with a 8-knot like that, we only noticed that after I lowered him down, we were shocked and grateful because he was up high!! check your knots fellas!!
and btw: I am trusting 8 knot much more after seeing this :)
First dude. Anchor was redundant, but had Extension. SRENE = Solid, Redundant, Equalized. No Extension.
Nice!
that 3 point anchor was fked, top fails, left fails as you said, right on its own straight onto the sharp edge
Saw a guy fall at an indoor gym because the belay jocky (employee) didn't finish the figure 8. He fell 30 feet and was awarded a $100,000 settlement. The employee got fired and kicked out of his nursing degree program 😳
America is a weird place.
I know this is an older video, but when it comes to clipping a hanger with another piece of hardware on it, ALWAYS clip under the other hardware. If it’s a quick link or rap ring lift it up and clip below it. This will avoid laterally loading the spine of your draw against the link.
Tied off to the wall !!! Scared too !!!! 🤯
commenting because more people need to see these videos
Have you ever tried out the firefly? I’ve got one, and it works awesome! One problem I have with it, is that I don’t like the idea of rappelling off one bolt when cleaning the route if you can’t finish it. I was thinking of an idea of rappelling down to the next bolt, firefly the top bolt, and reinstall the firefly on the next draw and repeat until you get to the ground. You have any experience with the firefly?
As an arbor climber, this is all stuff that I wouldn’t do. I’m essentially an aid climber, but having a TIP that sways in the wind is scary enough sometimes, let alone limb walking that same moving tree.
Such an interesting analysis
Great video 👍🏻
Back clipping can also be a climbing fail, haven’t seen that yet! :)
I think it’s possible to clip screwbolts wrong to. Quickdraws can flip out from the bolt but not the rope. Would be interesting to se!!
Minute 15! Vertical Hold awesome gym in San Diego. The ground is polished pebbles that have been there for 200 years. Love that cave hahahahahah
I love your video.
At 15:00 the fall needed close attention, but the belayer likely was holding the device open, since he was not even jerked at all when the climber passed below his last clip. Luckily the fall didn't occur ten or twenty feet higher. At 19:00, it's hard to see if the anchors are adequate, because of all the clove hitches filling up the biner space, instead of cleaning it up with figure eights or even more useful, butterfly knots that provide easily adjustable loops. The top piece could be bombproof, but is out of sight.
The tri-anchor also looks like the PAS is cross loaded on the gate.
The first video of falling I think the friend who is keeping the chain , lost the chain and let fall the frind
At least two carabiners are getting side loaded in the blue cluster pic.
Its called a mallion. Decieving to call it a quicklink cuz theres nothing quick about it compared to a quickdraw.
maillon rapide is french for quicklink...
I remember a young kid maybe 5 yrs ago who was an absolute beast died because he didnt put the dogbone on the carabiners of his draws, just the rubber part and he fell and died. His dad was belaying, super sad...
This gym is Vertical Hold in San Diego and the floor is pretty large gravel. Crazy seeing a gym I used to climb at in your video.
9:30 this killed Tito Traversa
That was an awful tragedy and completely avoidable. The adults involved were totally derelict in their duty to look after the kids in their care.
Rip Tito
"That's how I was conceived"
That rope swing looked like it's going to lead to that outcome even with a static rope, looking at the angle it's going up from the climber and how close the ledge was. I wonder what the person filming it was expecting to happen... "Are you kidding me"
I've done that rope swing with dynamic ropes a lot. I'm 215lbs and I've never hit the ground. A lot of people don't take up enough slack.
First pic. That blue rope looks like it's going through and adjustable harness,
bridge rope. Looks,almost exactly like my petals adjustable bridge.
The indoor climber was showing off, bet he watched cliffhanger right before his epic lead.... the last picture looks like her harness is being eaten!
ye man in blue jacket is back :) missed you
Easy solution to broken carabiner clipped on top of the quicklink. Just clip under the quicklink. The biner most likely broke because the quicklink put tye carabiner in a position where it was loaded over and edge. Or it caused the gate to open which made the carabiner much weaker. And if the climber clipped with the gate facing towards the direction of fall and the gate was open then the rope would more likely load the carabiner away from the spine and closer to the nose which creates a lever arm which would make the carabiner much weaker.
Better solution would be to clip the quickdraw under the quicklink with the gate facing away from the direction of fall
Rope swing is in Moab, the anchor is 100ft above that your rap from. Climber ran in the direction of the anchor above him putting slack into the system. In this location you have to make sure you tighten the system from where you jump from.
15:10 the floor is gravel. A lot of gyms do that, and then have a hand full of big pads to drag over to your projects.
20:00 they were too ripped on that CBD in their hand to remember to finish tying the knot lol!
Second one rock spaghetti !!!!!! Scared again !!!!! Have confidence in your knowledge and gear 🤯
Good stuff
Hi! I like your channel!
I started indoor rock climbing 4 years ago when my mid life crisis hit me! I loved it from the moment I went up the wall and haven't stopped climbing since.
My next step is to go outdoor. However I can't wrap my head around how outdoor climbing works!!!
So if you did lead climbing up the wall and you come back down as you did in gym, how do you get your quick draws other equipment back??
Also, how do you belay muli pitch??
How do you climb when there is no one on the bottom to belay you??
It sounds very dumb question, but I have no knowledge!!
Can you do a very basic climbing info videos?
I can't find these info either on other climbing youtubers .
Ill make a video on it. But the best thing you can ever do is go out with some one experienced you may get a great idea of how everything is done from watching my videos but they can never supplement real life experience.
The multi pitch crash course:
First the lead climber climbs up placing gear for his fall protection along the way. At around half a rope length there is a place to anchor or build a belay station (there may be bolts here). The lead climber then builds a belay station and puts the second climber (his once belayer) on belay. The second makes his way up the climb cleaning all the gear out along the way. Once they reach each other they then rinse and repeat to the top.
Drink every time you hear the word 'biner!!
Great video . Wow . You say stick to the basics . This point is made time and time again . But people are breaking another golden safety rule. Over estimating your own capability. That was the root cause failure in all these videos. No buddy check. Improper anchors. Unfinished knots. A crazy dangerous swing with no test first . A 1st time belay er and a first time lead climber. You probably save lives with these videos. Thank you .
19:24 All off that system is situated like all the load is on the gate of carab. 🥳
12:07 you got me. I'm sick. I need help.
I'm like, i don't want to see this. But ........ Have to look :)
fun fact: if you go to the laundromat late at night you can wash your quickdraws and other fabric items without taking hardware off! Warning: will be loud
I swear there’s a channel for every specific genre/topic
Welcome to the one about climbing 🤣
18:31 is also cross-loading the biner.. even if pieces dont blow, the carabinerbiner might break
this dude is more cautious than me
2:03 well, he proved there's a way down.
There's always a way down. The question is whether there's a way to get there slow enough to walk away.
With the first one I remember when doing my l2 training and in the first one the stitching to create the little loops in the sling are not load barring and can fail so I’m wondering if they had a carabiner part way down the purple sling between 2 loops and then the stitch failed and at that point the carabiner was no longer connected
It definitely looks like a problem with the anchor. When the tension is released you can see the rope get taut again, so probably one of the pieces blew. I dunno about daisy chains so much but i think the stitching is load bearing, just not rated for falls? Someone correct me if I'm wrong here, I dont use one, but i know some friends that use them as part of a PAS. Either way, one part of his anchor failed and he cranked down on the rap device (like people who death grip the throttle on a motorcycle when it gets away from them).
Biggest take away for me is ALWAYS back up your rappels with some kind of extended friction hitch and that shit wont happen