Also what the hell was he doing with his brake hand? There was already lots of slack between him and the climber and he's loosely holding the rope away from his body ready to give more. If he was closer to the wall and just off to the side he could have noticed the climber missing a clip and have less slack in the system while using his body to move forward to give slack when necessary and be ready to catch a fall.
I'm actually the one who filmed the clip with the kid. It is at my local spot at Millstättersee, Austria. It was really really f*cked up as ofcourse as you told in the video, we spoke up to the dude (grandpa of the kid in the mid 60s), what if he fell and the kid skyrocketed and she had to watch her grandpa die. He told us very ignorant and pissed to mind our own business. Was really a shocker that day :/
If it's dangerous (and there's no question about it in this case), you have all rights in the world to step in. If grandpa is pissed, he can go and f* himself. Hell, in Austria you can go to the police with this video and get grampa sued. wtf
In the second clip i think the main reason why he flipped upside down is because his right leg is on the wrong side of the rope rather than his left leg is caught up on the ledge. Happend to me before. Pretty painful fall. Glad he could laugh it off! 😉 Big up for you mate! Love your channel! Can't wait for the next video 😊
This is hands down the best climbing channel for learning how to fuck up less. Rather than just poking fun at fails you're offering some real insight into what went wrong and how to avoid it in future. I know I personally have felt more comfortable lead climbing outdoors after some things youve mentioned in videos. Keep killing it, you'll be the biggest on this platform, big love
Not sure about in US but outside, climbing with 2 half-ropes is pretty normal for trad and alpine (and it saves carrying a tag line, so not too much weight disadvantage) has better security when done correctly, less rope drag when zigzagging and softer catch on falls. Technique was invented in 1977 by Edelrid the same company that invented dynamic climbing rope in 1964 and quickdraw in 1973.
Belay glasses arent too bad! They're prisms instead of mirrors so they dont really have hard edges. I find its kind of looking into like binoculars that aren't right up to your eyes so you've still got pretty good peripheral vision for if someone yells rock or to look if you need to move about a bit
Aside from looking ridiculous, I love using belay glasses (on long or overhanging routes). I have had to dodge rockfall while wearing them. It wasn't really a problem. The only issue I have is spotting the climber till they get to the first bolt or protection. The glasses block the view right in front so I have to let them sit really far down on my nose. Even with that, it still blocks some of the view.
1st video: (inexperienced belayer) - excess slack, hand out to the side instead of brake position, too far away from wall 2nd video: (featured in rock & ice: weekend whipper) -only things noting is he flipped over because his right leg was in front of the rope & NOT because his left foot caught the ledge, the term you were looking for was "zippering" when all his (most likely passive) pieces popped out; also each one of those were probably bomber placements 'at height'. -and everyone was laughing at the end because of the delay that last piece took to slide down to the belayer. 3rd video: (Wow!) - Ya, too much going on with the hands to belay safe, if both fell? belayer is getting yanked up twice as high, if one falls and he takes up slack, where is the other climber at the time? above a biner? about to clip? is he yanking the other down at the same time he is making a catch? 4th video: -most upsetting is the belayer releasing the brake hand (most likely complacency from always using a gri-gri), can't fault a guys footwear to belay ( i know your joking), and i'm meh, on the helmet. 5th video: - have no words 6th video: -he's bouldering, you do what you can to anticipate placing pads in relation to the "falls" of the climb especially when you are by yourself with no spotters, I'm more surprised nobody mentioned his rad stach!
The first clip, the belayer is way too far away from the wall and got pulled towards the wall which allowed him to fall further than needed. You basically want shoulder to wall when belaying someone on an overhang, imo. That was the number 2 issue. The number one issue was the climber skipping a clip. Or at least, not clipping when he was in a position to clip.
You should be a legs length from the wall at most, because on a factor 2 fall, you get pulled to the wall (the belayer). So he added loads of slack to the system and that’s why the leader fell so far.
Based on the position, assuming he is using a grigri or similar enough device and being nonchalant about brake position due to little braking force needed.
holy sh.. that guy with the kid and the double belay - omg, props to these people if they are still alive. A definite case of "should I laugh or cry" leaning towards the latter.
After watching a ton of these videos, I now own a grigri. (Helmets are a no-brainer, I cycle and ride motorbike, head is still in one piece after a few close inspections of the composition of asphalt.)
With Trad climbed in the middle of the video I think it’s one of those cases where you want your feet between the rope and the wall, his right left has in front of the rope and the when he falls, his foot is trapped by the rope.
To comment on the belay glasses, my friend was belaying with them once when the climber ripped a baseball sized rock from the wall. He couldn’t react so he just ducked forward and the rock landed perfectly in his chalk bag on his back. Crazy lucky!
Hey man been indoor climbing for a while. I’m an adventure education major and one of the 100 classes- we have skills courses as well as education courses for adventure Ed- is climbing fundamentals. Climes outside for the first time 3 weeks ago and am loving it. I’m really enjoying this series as I think I have learned more about WHAT NOT TO DO in life rather than what to do. You offer really good insight and I have learned a lot from these videos as a beginner. Also some of this stuff on the series has been a no brainer even for me. Don’t know how people are doing crazy climbs and don’t know what they are doing. Love ya and keep up the good work.
11:52 If there is a Reverso for example on top in auto block mode, the little guy is there just to feed the rope through. Not the most elegant way to do it but possible.
Man, you're funny. Like you're style. Just discovered you from Spain (like youtube cares about it anyway...). Thanks for the laughs and the tips. Keep at it! And don't forget the un-friendly judge hammer, it's just cool, don't know why don't you use it in every chapter
3:39 was a big fail. His bottom 2-3 pieces weren't placed to handle an upward & outward pull, and they all failed. They popped well before his two top pieces stopped him. If his top pieces failed, it would have been a ground fall. This is why it's important to ensure that your bottom piece(s) can handle upward/outward force in addition to downward force (e.g. using a well-placed cam, or two nuts joined together with one facing up and one facing down). He also had the rope behind his leg which is why he flipped upside down. Climbing FAIL not win!
Entirely the belayer's doing - standing 10+ ft from the wall. When he fell, the belayer was pulled into the wall - adding several feet, in addition to the slack - 100% belayer's fault.
That first one is bad because the climber looked to be not communicating with his partner and also his partner didn’t look safe to me.I use belay glasses and swear by them though I haven’t used them outdoors yet.
I used to climb up to 5.10, only inside. Hindsight: Helmets are to protect your head from injury, not to indicate where you are. A fake rock hits as hard as a real one . Indoor or Outdoor, F=ma. Always a helmet when leading. A number of years ago, I tried getting back to it. I went to Aiguille Rock Climbing in Orlando, FL. I bought a Petzl Gri-Gri 2 and a carabiner (non locking, but it needs a twist before opening. Now, Not the manager or supervisor, but the GENIUSES in the staff....wow, talk about ignorant, they kept acting all scared because I was using a GG2 to belay (top rope anyway) and kept yelling at me for not being extremely paranoid with it and treating it UNLIKE a tube type. It was laughable. My climbing buddy too a slip, GG did its job and stopped him. Then, when I started to bring him down, one of the gym people came and lectured me about how GGs “have been known to fail”. I wrote to Petzl and they expressed concern about the statements made and said they’d follow up since the gym sold their gear. That’s one of the biggest FAILS I experienced, lack of equipment knowledge from the people working at a place like that. I simply Opted to never go back there again and go to one in Melbourne, FL.
//Edit: I am wrong! Left and right is called half rope. Twin rope: MUST clip both ropes Half rope: CAN clip both ropes OR left/right If you use 2 Ropes and 1 goes left the other one right it's called twin rope technique. If you doing halfrope technique you just use those 2 ropes like a single rope.
"Single" rope is... well, just one! 2 half ropes clipping only 1 at a time is "half" but you do *NOT* just clip both at same time as the catch is too hard that way. You can get different ropes for "twin" where you can clip both at same time (these have softer catch than standard half ropes). There are even some ropes triple certified that can be used as a single, half and twin -but they're expensive. Don't *assume* all modern half ropes are ok used as twins, many are not certified for that. Use them incorrectly and as they say... Play stupid games and you win stupid prizes. Check the cert usage for each rope. Don't get hurt people!
@@tomtom4405 that's why i said they are certified. Maybe not all - but allmost all. And ofc you can clip both ropes at ones. In alpine climbing you often do that. Those ropes have much higher extension on a fall so the catch is not that hard if you use 2 of them. Triple certified ropes are nice cause they are light but the downside is that the extension if used as single rope will be very high. Cause if you use them as twin or double they need this to guarantee a softer catch. but you are right i was bit mistaken. using them left and right is called half rope technique. With twinropes you MUST clip both ropes in the same and with halfrope you CAN. Sorry for my bad english, but it's not my mother tongue and i'm in a hurry!
First video : belayer is far from the wall, this is bigger chance to create extra slack plus the climber continue to fall as long as belayer does not reach the wall, plus belayer hand brake was totally wrong position, he was probably using a grigri in that case, this is why climber got a chance to not hit the floor. The biggest issue in my opinion is the climber, i am not sure but it looks like he skipped a clip, this is terrible in the position he was.
Non-climber here (but I'm here for the knots and rigging and such)... As far as the helmet indoors debate, my thought is this...as in combat, climbing and anything else...train how you fight and fight how you train... My point is, wear a helmet INDOORS too...get in the habit and it will become second nature. A fractured skull is a fractured skull...doesn't matter if it's in Yosemite or Bubba-Joe's house of climbing
2nd clip: Considering he could have fallen earlier, before placing the top protections, he was right to assume the force would be pointing down, right? Does that mean every time he sets up a new higher protection, the one below gets fucked up because of the change in force direction? Does that mean that when climbing with that kind of protection, the top one is the only one actually working?
I think there needs to be a real and serious discussion about wearing helmets in the gym, especially for lead climbing in the gym. As a previous instructor in a gym, I realized that most climbers get their start in a gym and a gym is a great environment to build safe and long-lasting foundations for both gym and outdoor climbing. I also found it insane that we would be super diligent in making sure people were keen on buddy checks and commands and knots, etcetera, ultimately trying to build a solid foundation for safety, but when it came to lead climbing, the helmet, wasn't event a consideration. I think we see this play out in the outdoor realm and illustrates a significant flaw in our climbing building blocks. What is the deal? Is it stigma? Ego? I just don't really understand.
I think people dont really anticipate they're gonna fall in a climbing gym which I can get behind to some degree as I'm a "careful" climber myself not tending to jump or do weird dyno stuff. But even in gyms sometimes holds can break loose or just move or you slip and if you do fall you can smack your head as well, that's totally true. Outdoors everyone understands that rocks can fall down unexpectedly and you should abolutely wear a helmet. I think it's a lot wearing helmets when riding a bike: in the city some people just outright refuse to do it because "they can ride a bike and they make no mistakes" or their hair gets messed up (worst excuse ever!). But if you send them down a trail in the mountains suddenly they gladly do wear one.
That last boulderer is pro climber Keenan Takahashi, one of the strongest guys out there... :) One question about trad climbing: here in Europe (that trad fall appears to be some british gritstone climbing) is super common to use 1/2 ropes for trad climbing, but it's something I (almost) never see in US climbing videos, what's the reason for that? Is it limestone vs granite or something like that? Thanks for the answer! :)
Paul Granada Good questions. I think here in the US most climbs are pretty straight when it comes to protection. I think the climbs that aren’t are just avoided or are less common. I have seen half ropes used more in ice climbing though and alpine wondering routes. I don’t think I have a definitive answer on this one could come down to style and ethics who knows. 🤷🏻♂️
I read Alex Honnold questioned about rope drag when using single rope and his answer was like "just place less gear" hehehe I don't know, I use half ropes even in bolted multipitches, I feel them safer in case of typical limestone loose terrain and more useful for rappeling back to the ground and in case of "shit happens" scenarios, but who knows... :)
That belayer was really from from the wall in the first video! Why wasn’t he directly next to the wall looking at the rope if he couldn’t see the climber or watch the climber. Just bad belay fundamentals.
I disagree with your assessment of #1. It seems to me he made a couple mistakes. first, he passed a clip, which caused a much farther factor 2 fall, and second, he had his leg (edit: right knee) behind the rope, so when he fell, that spun him and flipped him over backwards.
Inferno 99m you may be right I found it really hard to judge even after I slowed it down. He may have only got his knee on top of the rope because he doesn’t look like he get his foot over. As for the clip if he was to stand down lower and pull out slack to clip over his head there could possibly have been enough slack in that scenario to hit the ground. Especially the way the belayer had him slacked out. However he may have been in a more stable position and less likely to take a fall. Think you would have had to just be there in person to make the correct assessment. ( hard to tell at this angle) Thanks for the feedback. 🤙🏻
BetaClimbers certainly it was a perfect shitstorm lol. I think you’re right, it was his right knee, which caused a clockwise and backwards rotation. I also agree the clip could have gone either way, but he was literally on it before he fell - I would have snuck it in rather than going for the next move. And for sure, if he made the move he would have been even further past the clip, too far to clip in at that point, and would have hit the ground if he fell. Good Chanel. Glad UA-cam suggested it.
I'm not sure if you'r intentionally missing stuff to drive comments and therefor engagement but there are some big things not being identified. Gym clip: belayer is way too far from the wall. he has probably been backing up so he can keep looking up at the climber. As a result he is 10-12 ft from the wall and then another 6ish ft up(from belay device height) to the first draw that comes out to about 5 feet of rope in the system that doesn't need to be there or help. He should be orienting himself in relation to the first draw because that is the direction he will be pulled in. The amount of force to pull you sideways is much less than to pull you up. Force of the climber falling pulls him towards the wall and he cant do anything about it. He is using an brake assist device since you never see a strong movement of the left had which stays in a pretty high position (too high) the whole time. The belayer should have been close to the wall with belay device in the general direction of the first clip and turning sideways to watch the climber. This allows less rope to be in the system and for him to react quickly to take rope in and sit if needed to better protect the climber. Climbing probably should have clipped the next draw before going for the move Clip 2: Climber was backstepped with right foot which is why he flips hard when he did. Left foot clipping the ledge may have contributed also, but backstep was main cause imo. Jumping away from the wall is usually a bad idea. It can be useful if there is something under you that you need to avoid but definitely not a blanket policy. What he could have done to help was do a large egg beater motion, clockwise right leg, counter clockwise left in order to correct the backstep as he fell. Jumping out also changes the direction of pull on equipment. trad gear is placed to catch a downward fall. If you jump out you are changing the direction of pull and that can cause pieces to pull out. Clip 3: belaying 2 people off an ATC is an acceptable when being done from above. It is a safe and acceptable practice to have 2 people following at the same time on different ropes. That should be done with a guide type device not a basic ATC like the presenter shows in this clip. Clip 4: Climber and belayer should definitely be wearing a helmet. Rock falls are common and they are the variable you can do the least to prevent. Huge issue though is that guy letting go of the brake strand. Also rock falls while common aren't the leading cause of accidents. It's errors lowering and repelling (human errors) that cause the majority of climbing accidents. Belay glasses don't obstruct you vision. They give you the ability to watch the climber while not having to worry about dirt debris, and rocks falling on your face while keeping the nice helmet facing anything that could hit you. They also save a lot of strain on the neck from looking up for a long time. They do take time to get used to for sure. I suggest looking at the climber as normal until they get high enough to see them entirely in the glasses without information loss. I suggest a pair that is slightly magnified so you can see better when your climber is getting high. If you want to learn about climbing safety listen to "the sharp end" podcast and read the American Alpine Club's annual publication of accidents. americanalpineclub.org/sharp-end-podcast publications.americanalpineclub.org/about_the_accidents
Surprised nobody mentioned how far away from the wall the belayer was on the 1st video
I agree! I thought that would be issue no. 1
Also what the hell was he doing with his brake hand? There was already lots of slack between him and the climber and he's loosely holding the rope away from his body ready to give more. If he was closer to the wall and just off to the side he could have noticed the climber missing a clip and have less slack in the system while using his body to move forward to give slack when necessary and be ready to catch a fall.
Same
And he was dragged to the wall, causing 1m longer fall. He could even let the rope if he scared to hit something.
I'm actually the one who filmed the clip with the kid. It is at my local spot at Millstättersee, Austria. It was really really f*cked up as ofcourse as you told in the video, we spoke up to the dude (grandpa of the kid in the mid 60s), what if he fell and the kid skyrocketed and she had to watch her grandpa die.
He told us very ignorant and pissed to mind our own business.
Was really a shocker that day :/
Well good for you for saying something. 👍🏻
Holy shit.
that's a 911 situation as far as I'm concerned.
If it's dangerous (and there's no question about it in this case), you have all rights in the world to step in. If grandpa is pissed, he can go and f* himself. Hell, in Austria you can go to the police with this video and get grampa sued. wtf
Thank you for saying something, even if they weren’t receptive to your advice. You tried
I enjoyed the goose pulling the clip back to full screen.
In the second clip i think the main reason why he flipped upside down is because his right leg is on the wrong side of the rope rather than his left leg is caught up on the ledge. Happend to me before. Pretty painful fall.
Glad he could laugh it off! 😉
Big up for you mate! Love your channel! Can't wait for the next video 😊
Yeah, that was what I saw on the clip too
This is hands down the best climbing channel for learning how to fuck up less. Rather than just poking fun at fails you're offering some real insight into what went wrong and how to avoid it in future. I know I personally have felt more comfortable lead climbing outdoors after some things youve mentioned in videos.
Keep killing it, you'll be the biggest on this platform, big love
🤙🏻
I hate the esoteric pages where they show a pic and sarcastically talk about how bomber it is.
How did you all like this one? let me know!
I dont get why he didn't clip from the massive jug one move before he fell. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
always good. keep it up. been a few years since I was last at the Gunks
Richard H it’s getting crowded. They started giving members earlier access I guess to combat the crowds.
Fail videos are always a wealth of knowledge & pretty fun!
Always good to see what not to do. It always makes for a good lesson. People remember a bad outcome over a good one and this can prevent accidents
Not sure about in US but outside, climbing with 2 half-ropes is pretty normal for trad and alpine (and it saves carrying a tag line, so not too much weight disadvantage) has better security when done correctly, less rope drag when zigzagging and softer catch on falls. Technique was invented in 1977 by Edelrid the same company that invented dynamic climbing rope in 1964 and quickdraw in 1973.
Half-rope technique was standard practice in some places a long time before 1977.
Rope drag can get pretty heavy if you're doing multi pitch climb
Just a point on the second video clip. Rope was behind dudes leg when he fell. Love the video's and the humor. I likey.
Looks like in the first clip, his foot gets caught on the wrong side of the rope which flipped him.
Kevin Silvernale Right! maybe that was it I couldn’t really tell even when I slowed it down.
Yeah my leg got caught behind the rope, Got a nasty bit of rope burn.
It also looks like he climbed past one of the clips on the roof, which would remove all of that swing
Definitely leg behind rope, too much slack, didn't clip
The crag where the kid is belaying is called Jungfernsprung at Millstätter See in Austria. I know we Austrian can be crazy but thats on another level
Belay glasses arent too bad! They're prisms instead of mirrors so they dont really have hard edges. I find its kind of looking into like binoculars that aren't right up to your eyes so you've still got pretty good peripheral vision for if someone yells rock or to look if you need to move about a bit
Josh Smith thanks for for info I need to give those a try some time 🤙🏻
Aside from looking ridiculous, I love using belay glasses (on long or overhanging routes). I have had to dodge rockfall while wearing them. It wasn't really a problem. The only issue I have is spotting the climber till they get to the first bolt or protection. The glasses block the view right in front so I have to let them sit really far down on my nose. Even with that, it still blocks some of the view.
I find I lose too much situational awareness.
1st video: (inexperienced belayer)
- excess slack, hand out to the side instead of brake position, too far away from wall
2nd video: (featured in rock & ice: weekend whipper)
-only things noting is he flipped over because his right leg was in front of the rope & NOT because his left foot caught the ledge, the term you were looking for was "zippering" when all his (most likely passive) pieces popped out; also each one of those were probably bomber placements 'at height'.
-and everyone was laughing at the end because of the delay that last piece took to slide down to the belayer.
3rd video: (Wow!)
- Ya, too much going on with the hands to belay safe, if both fell? belayer is getting yanked up twice as high, if one falls and he takes up slack, where is the other climber at the time? above a biner? about to clip? is he yanking the other down at the same time he is making a catch?
4th video:
-most upsetting is the belayer releasing the brake hand (most likely complacency from always using a gri-gri), can't fault a guys footwear to belay ( i know your joking), and i'm meh, on the helmet.
5th video:
- have no words
6th video:
-he's bouldering, you do what you can to anticipate placing pads in relation to the "falls" of the climb especially when you are by yourself with no spotters, I'm more surprised nobody mentioned his rad stach!
For #4 I agree that releasing his brake hand isn't ideal but that's definitely less dangerous than the lack of helmet.
The first clip, the belayer is way too far away from the wall and got pulled towards the wall which allowed him to fall further than needed. You basically want shoulder to wall when belaying someone on an overhang, imo. That was the number 2 issue. The number one issue was the climber skipping a clip. Or at least, not clipping when he was in a position to clip.
Yeah, this. For at least the first 3 or maybe even 4 bolts you want the belayer close to the wall.
Good stuff. 1st video, look at the belayer's break hand, it's way too high.
That’s the First thing i noticed😂
You should be a legs length from the wall at most, because on a factor 2 fall, you get pulled to the wall (the belayer). So he added loads of slack to the system and that’s why the leader fell so far.
Based on the position, assuming he is using a grigri or similar enough device and being nonchalant about brake position due to little braking force needed.
holy sh.. that guy with the kid and the double belay - omg, props to these people if they are still alive. A definite case of "should I laugh or cry" leaning towards the latter.
I didn't know you were a 19 year old??? Best climbing series on UA-cam. Love it
Been watching all your videos, but that goose drag edit is what got me to subscribe! Keep up the good work!
Richard Sullivan HAH GOTEM!
the goose was my favorite edit too!
After watching a ton of these videos, I now own a grigri. (Helmets are a no-brainer, I cycle and ride motorbike, head is still in one piece after a few close inspections of the composition of asphalt.)
Great video! Always entertaining and way less serious than other climbing channels which is so good.
These videos are so informative! also, thank you for emphasizing the importance of helmets!
That last guy looks like Keenan Takahashi from the climbing channel mellow.
Lol I scrolled the comments just to see if someone had mentioned it...
He is
With Trad climbed in the middle of the video I think it’s one of those cases where you want your feet between the rope and the wall, his right left has in front of the rope and the when he falls, his foot is trapped by the rope.
Fun fact, last guy is pro climber Keenan Takahashi
BEST CLIMBING CONTENT ON THE INTERNET.
Plus......... Josh is hilarious.
Great Video, Always nice to be able to learn from mistakes 👍
with a ATC you can belay 2 climbers... but from the anchor in guide mode. not from the ground ahahah
To comment on the belay glasses, my friend was belaying with them once when the climber ripped a baseball sized rock from the wall. He couldn’t react so he just ducked forward and the rock landed perfectly in his chalk bag on his back. Crazy lucky!
😨
its been a long time since i last subscribed a channel, but this one is gold! educating and funny at the same time, love it!
🤙🏻 Welcome aboard!
He wants to up the ante and put his kid in danger too. Hahaha
love your videos man
Beta dad for the win, again
Greg Cronin 🤙🏻
Hey man been indoor climbing for a while. I’m an adventure education major and one of the 100 classes- we have skills courses as well as education courses for adventure Ed- is climbing fundamentals. Climes outside for the first time 3 weeks ago and am loving it. I’m really enjoying this series as I think I have learned more about WHAT NOT TO DO in life rather than what to do. You offer really good insight and I have learned a lot from these videos as a beginner. Also some of this stuff on the series has been a no brainer even for me. Don’t know how people are doing crazy climbs and don’t know what they are doing. Love ya and keep up the good work.
I'm curious to know where are you studying AdEd? I'm doing my bachelors in AdEd in Finland but haven't heard of too many places where you can study it
11:52
If there is a Reverso for example on top in auto block mode, the little guy is there just to feed the rope through. Not the most elegant way to do it but possible.
Man, you're funny. Like you're style. Just discovered you from Spain (like youtube cares about it anyway...). Thanks for the laughs and the tips. Keep at it! And don't forget the un-friendly judge hammer, it's just cool, don't know why don't you use it in every chapter
The intro 😂
I’m sure I’ve fallen off that two rope route, looks a lot like one of the Wilton Quarries in Lancashire, it gets very damp there.
It's Cheat E3 5C. On the cover of the old Lancashire Rock guidebook. www.ellis-brigham.com/bmc-lancashire-rock-bmc-guide-book-180405
Thought it looked like a UK route and setup
This is really valuable!
Thank you, man! This video is perfekt 👍
"1 band show here." 1 band is multiple people 😂
Double ropes are pretty standard in the UK. This looks like a gritstone quarry.
10:44 had me shook
3:39 was a big fail. His bottom 2-3 pieces weren't placed to handle an upward & outward pull, and they all failed. They popped well before his two top pieces stopped him. If his top pieces failed, it would have been a ground fall. This is why it's important to ensure that your bottom piece(s) can handle upward/outward force in addition to downward force (e.g. using a well-placed cam, or two nuts joined together with one facing up and one facing down). He also had the rope behind his leg which is why he flipped upside down. Climbing FAIL not win!
Entirely the belayer's doing - standing 10+ ft from the wall. When he fell, the belayer was pulled into the wall - adding several feet, in addition to the slack - 100% belayer's fault.
after watching that I want to get some extra practice
Nice!
Last guy was about 3" from a shattered ankle.
lol love this and I LOVE YOU
Is that an outer banks OBX hat!? Dude let me know when your down here again and let's go surf!🤙
I have climbed only at indoor gyms. Seeing this I don't want to go outdoor!!
That first one is bad because the climber looked to be not communicating with his partner and also his partner didn’t look safe to me.I use belay glasses and swear by them though I haven’t used them outdoors yet.
jay Helsby interesting I should give them a try 🤔
i subbed because of the intro
I used to climb up to 5.10, only inside. Hindsight: Helmets are to protect your head from injury, not to indicate where you are. A fake rock hits as hard as a real one . Indoor or Outdoor, F=ma. Always a helmet when leading.
A number of years ago, I tried getting back to it. I went to Aiguille Rock Climbing in Orlando, FL. I bought a Petzl Gri-Gri 2 and a carabiner (non locking, but it needs a twist before opening.
Now, Not the manager or supervisor, but the GENIUSES in the staff....wow, talk about ignorant, they kept acting all scared because I was using a GG2 to belay (top rope anyway) and kept yelling at me for not being extremely paranoid with it and treating it UNLIKE a tube type. It was laughable. My climbing buddy too a slip, GG did its job and stopped him. Then, when I started to bring him down, one of the gym people came and lectured me about how
GGs “have been known to fail”. I wrote to Petzl and they expressed concern about the statements made and said they’d follow up since the gym sold their gear.
That’s one of the biggest FAILS I experienced, lack of equipment knowledge from the people working at a place like that.
I simply Opted to never go back there again and go to one in Melbourne, FL.
Can't believe keenan takahashi didn't have correct pad placement or spotters. Damn
Last clip - the mustache clearly obscures his view for proper foot placements. #climbingFail
1:10.... got what he deserved for being cocky and not clipping one of the many obvious draws available.
//Edit: I am wrong!
Left and right is called half rope.
Twin rope: MUST clip both ropes
Half rope: CAN clip both ropes OR left/right
If you use 2 Ropes and 1 goes left the other one right it's called twin rope technique.
If you doing halfrope technique you just use those 2 ropes like a single rope.
fuchsi1516 Oh I switched it up 😂 Thanks for clearing that up! 🤙🏻
@@BetaClimbers yeah but all modern half ropes are certified as twin ropes. So you can do whats best in a specific situation
"Single" rope is... well, just one! 2 half ropes clipping only 1 at a time is "half" but you do *NOT* just clip both at same time as the catch is too hard that way. You can get different ropes for "twin" where you can clip both at same time (these have softer catch than standard half ropes). There are even some ropes triple certified that can be used as a single, half and twin -but they're expensive. Don't *assume* all modern half ropes are ok used as twins, many are not certified for that. Use them incorrectly and as they say... Play stupid games and you win stupid prizes. Check the cert usage for each rope. Don't get hurt people!
Tom Tom this sounds like a good video topic 🤔😂
@@tomtom4405 that's why i said they are certified. Maybe not all - but allmost all. And ofc you can clip both ropes at ones. In alpine climbing you often do that. Those ropes have much higher extension on a fall so the catch is not that hard if you use 2 of them. Triple certified ropes are nice cause they are light but the downside is that the extension if used as single rope will be very high. Cause if you use them as twin or double they need this to guarantee a softer catch.
but you are right i was bit mistaken. using them left and right is called half rope technique. With twinropes you MUST clip both ropes in the same and with halfrope you CAN.
Sorry for my bad english, but it's not my mother tongue and i'm in a hurry!
First video : belayer is far from the wall, this is bigger chance to create extra slack plus the climber continue to fall as long as belayer does not reach the wall, plus belayer hand brake was totally wrong position, he was probably using a grigri in that case, this is why climber got a chance to not hit the floor. The biggest issue in my opinion is the climber, i am not sure but it looks like he skipped a clip, this is terrible in the position he was.
yes to helmets indoors
Worst rope drag madem g gunks
I’ve only been in and operated the stokes for training with my fire department does that count?
Morgan Kenney 🤣 I’ll allow it.
Kind of looked to me like the climber (scenerio 2) had the right rope behind his leg, which is what flipped him.
Kid can belay with the Ohm. A 10 year kid belays his dad at my local climbing gym.
Non-climber here (but I'm here for the knots and rigging and such)...
As far as the helmet indoors debate, my thought is this...as in combat, climbing and anything else...train how you fight and fight how you train...
My point is, wear a helmet INDOORS too...get in the habit and it will become second nature. A fractured skull is a fractured skull...doesn't matter if it's in Yosemite or Bubba-Joe's house of climbing
2nd clip:
Considering he could have fallen earlier, before placing the top protections, he was right to assume the force would be pointing down, right? Does that mean every time he sets up a new higher protection, the one below gets fucked up because of the change in force direction? Does that mean that when climbing with that kind of protection, the top one is the only one actually working?
Hard to say, it really just depends on how well the pieces can be placed. Another option would be to have two belayers.
I think there needs to be a real and serious discussion about wearing helmets in the gym, especially for lead climbing in the gym. As a previous instructor in a gym, I realized that most climbers get their start in a gym and a gym is a great environment to build safe and long-lasting foundations for both gym and outdoor climbing. I also found it insane that we would be super diligent in making sure people were keen on buddy checks and commands and knots, etcetera, ultimately trying to build a solid foundation for safety, but when it came to lead climbing, the helmet, wasn't event a consideration. I think we see this play out in the outdoor realm and illustrates a significant flaw in our climbing building blocks. What is the deal? Is it stigma? Ego? I just don't really understand.
I think people dont really anticipate they're gonna fall in a climbing gym which I can get behind to some degree as I'm a "careful" climber myself not tending to jump or do weird dyno stuff. But even in gyms sometimes holds can break loose or just move or you slip and if you do fall you can smack your head as well, that's totally true.
Outdoors everyone understands that rocks can fall down unexpectedly and you should abolutely wear a helmet.
I think it's a lot wearing helmets when riding a bike: in the city some people just outright refuse to do it because "they can ride a bike and they make no mistakes" or their hair gets messed up (worst excuse ever!). But if you send them down a trail in the mountains suddenly they gladly do wear one.
I've seen a couple guys with helmets indoors, both were well over 70 though.
Guess that’s the same reason they drive 5mph, they are to young to die.
Perhaps there is a reason why they have got to 70, hmmmm.
That last boulderer is pro climber Keenan Takahashi, one of the strongest guys out there... :)
One question about trad climbing: here in Europe (that trad fall appears to be some british gritstone climbing) is super common to use 1/2 ropes for trad climbing, but it's something I (almost) never see in US climbing videos, what's the reason for that? Is it limestone vs granite or something like that? Thanks for the answer! :)
Paul Granada Good questions. I think here in the US most climbs are pretty straight when it comes to protection. I think the climbs that aren’t are just avoided or are less common. I have seen half ropes used more in ice climbing though and alpine wondering routes. I don’t think I have a definitive answer on this one could come down to style and ethics who knows. 🤷🏻♂️
I read Alex Honnold questioned about rope drag when using single rope and his answer was like "just place less gear" hehehe
I don't know, I use half ropes even in bolted multipitches, I feel them safer in case of typical limestone loose terrain and more useful for rappeling back to the ground and in case of "shit happens" scenarios, but who knows... :)
Paul Granada those are some good points maybe it has to do with popularity of a grigri and other single rope belay devices.
@@paulgranada7203 and you can get your partner to carry half of the rope 😂
Yeah, I always try to avoid carrying the rope even when I go sport climbing hahaha I'm getting lazier as I grow older lol
You found it!
I got my wife a grigri a few years ago to minimize the chance of her dropping to my doom
That belayer was really from from the wall in the first video! Why wasn’t he directly next to the wall looking at the rope if he couldn’t see the climber or watch the climber. Just bad belay fundamentals.
Looks like the kid has a red device on her harness but not using it ??? How much training could that kid have had ??
10:38 are actually dutch and i'm seriously embarrased as a dutch person right now
Will you be my crag dad?
I disagree with your assessment of #1. It seems to me he made a couple mistakes. first, he passed a clip, which caused a much farther factor 2 fall, and second, he had his leg (edit: right knee) behind the rope, so when he fell, that spun him and flipped him over backwards.
Inferno 99m you may be right I found it really hard to judge even after I slowed it down. He may have only got his knee on top of the rope because he doesn’t look like he get his foot over. As for the clip if he was to stand down lower and pull out slack to clip over his head there could possibly have been enough slack in that scenario to hit the ground. Especially the way the belayer had him slacked out. However he may have been in a more stable position and less likely to take a fall. Think you would have had to just be there in person to make the correct assessment. ( hard to tell at this angle) Thanks for the feedback. 🤙🏻
BetaClimbers certainly it was a perfect shitstorm lol. I think you’re right, it was his right knee, which caused a clockwise and backwards rotation. I also agree the clip could have gone either way, but he was literally on it before he fell - I would have snuck it in rather than going for the next move. And for sure, if he made the move he would have been even further past the clip, too far to clip in at that point, and would have hit the ground if he fell.
Good Chanel. Glad UA-cam suggested it.
Inferno 99m yeah great point, right on! Thanks 🤙🏻
It wasn't a Factor 2 fall; not possible in a normal single-pitch situation - unless that pitch starts off a ledge high above the ground!
@@ip2862 you appear not to know what a factor 2 fall is.
Dislikes? Someone here must disagree about the atc thing
what's with all the helmet fails in climbing? Seems to me like a helmet is a no-brainer.
There is definitely a joke in here some where no helmet no brain 🧠🤔 lol 😂
I'm not sure if you'r intentionally missing stuff to drive comments and therefor engagement but there are some big things not being identified.
Gym clip: belayer is way too far from the wall. he has probably been backing up so he can keep looking up at the climber. As a result he is 10-12 ft from the wall and then another 6ish ft up(from belay device height) to the first draw that comes out to about 5 feet of rope in the system that doesn't need to be there or help. He should be orienting himself in relation to the first draw because that is the direction he will be pulled in. The amount of force to pull you sideways is much less than to pull you up. Force of the climber falling pulls him towards the wall and he cant do anything about it. He is using an brake assist device since you never see a strong movement of the left had which stays in a pretty high position (too high) the whole time. The belayer should have been close to the wall with belay device in the general direction of the first clip and turning sideways to watch the climber. This allows less rope to be in the system and for him to react quickly to take rope in and sit if needed to better protect the climber.
Climbing probably should have clipped the next draw before going for the move
Clip 2: Climber was backstepped with right foot which is why he flips hard when he did. Left foot clipping the ledge may have contributed also, but backstep was main cause imo. Jumping away from the wall is usually a bad idea. It can be useful if there is something under you that you need to avoid but definitely not a blanket policy. What he could have done to help was do a large egg beater motion, clockwise right leg, counter clockwise left in order to correct the backstep as he fell. Jumping out also changes the direction of pull on equipment. trad gear is placed to catch a downward fall. If you jump out you are changing the direction of pull and that can cause pieces to pull out.
Clip 3: belaying 2 people off an ATC is an acceptable when being done from above. It is a safe and acceptable practice to have 2 people following at the same time on different ropes. That should be done with a guide type device not a basic ATC like the presenter shows in this clip.
Clip 4: Climber and belayer should definitely be wearing a helmet. Rock falls are common and they are the variable you can do the least to prevent. Huge issue though is that guy letting go of the brake strand. Also rock falls while common aren't the leading cause of accidents. It's errors lowering and repelling (human errors) that cause the majority of climbing accidents.
Belay glasses don't obstruct you vision. They give you the ability to watch the climber while not having to worry about dirt debris, and rocks falling on your face while keeping the nice helmet facing anything that could hit you. They also save a lot of strain on the neck from looking up for a long time. They do take time to get used to for sure. I suggest looking at the climber as normal until they get high enough to see them entirely in the glasses without information loss. I suggest a pair that is slightly magnified so you can see better when your climber is getting high.
If you want to learn about climbing safety listen to "the sharp end" podcast and read the American Alpine Club's annual publication of accidents.
americanalpineclub.org/sharp-end-podcast
publications.americanalpineclub.org/about_the_accidents
sabindaman read everything you wrote sounds good to me, thanks for the extra info 🤙🏻
leg was caught behind the rope. pretty basic.
I don’t want to end up like the guy in the beginning.. definitely subscribed 😂