Then just watch the video again. The stock intake will make about the same power until you really start to deviate from the stock engine. Aftermarket "cold" air Intakes on most street cars are usually just for looking cool.
For me, it goes to show just how good intake design can influence the torque curve. Your first two runs show that the experiment is consistant by the fact that both curves sit right on top of each other for shape. Good job of elliminating experimental error. Now, that loss of torque at around 4200rpm on the third intake - that's around 5 or 6% along with a 1-2% loss lower down. I realise that you were being "diplomatic" but for me that would be a pisser. 5% at 4200rpm is NOT insignificant - that's a direct 5% loss of acceleration, right where it's best utilised on the road too. Remember, it's TORQUE that accelerates a car, NOT power. Great video, great experimentation, well put together, but guys ... tell it like it is. You've gained a subscriber.
Guys, in my opinion, when the engineers design the intakes systems, they do emulate the real scenario. They are not thinking that we are running our cars with the hood opened. I think, to do a fair comparison of this kind of things, you have to emulate the real conditions as much as possible. Hopefully, that might do the difference, like the spacer between the throttle and the intake manifold to not transfer the heat to the intake.... Btw, I love the channel and the focus of the content. Good job!
I think one issue with all of these tests is the hood is open and a big fan is blowing at the intake so it doesn't really represent real world conditions. I understand a dyno test is like that but this gives an advantage to these air filters vs stock snorkel type intakes. I would bet on the road with hood closed there is no difference and possible a decrease in horsepower as the stock intakes insulate against heat better and route the air better with hood closed my 2 cents.
there is a video by engineering explained that just used aftermarket drop in filters and saw a 3-5% gain I believe in HP and torque using a k&n filter over the stock one
@@MaDDeX93 Not so. The K&N Filter on their Intake Systems are designed to act like a ram air system where air is sucked in. Thats why they are shapped like a cone. Duh dude!! Please use your brain.
@@extremedrivr thats not ram air lol. Ram air sucks in oitside air and is actually in the direct path of incoming air, not sitting under the hood. Already widely known cai are a waste
@@trudeaumustgo1920 A waste huh?? Check this video and see how uneducated you are. ua-cam.com/video/weZrNmISjaE/v-deo.html And you obviously don't understand how air flows because with a CAI like K&N for example, the air is comming from under the vehicle or from the grill depending on the vehicle and engine because the heat shield is blocking the under hood air. So your point is moot.
@@extremedrivr coldest air is out side the engine bay, where stock intakes get their air, not under the hood. Yeah lets suck air from 6 inches beside the header. You probably drive a civic and think you just gained 100hp
Cool comparison! I'm currently running an Airaid MXP on my truck (FBO+/Up/Rev tuned). Just FYI - The MXP is the only "4" CAI available on the market for my truck & definitely better than the AEM Bruteforce that it replaced. I recently swapped out the MXP filter itself for an RC2 Black Hex Series one. I really like the design of the RC2, it's non-oiled & super easy to clean also!
A. I cant speak for all cars, but I tested my intakes temperature before and after a SRI install and the difference was minimal. What I did notice was that the stock intake sucked up more water then the SRI. B. Before you criticize someone for putting an intake on there car, stop and think that it might be there first project or first time picking up tools if they even have any tools at all. It's a car part that they can afford and is super easy to install with basic tools. At least there trying to learn.
i wanna see an RX8 dyno between the revi from racing beat the K&N typhoon v2 and an Ebay kit form like AF dynamics built as a dead knock off form the K&N
I think it's funny that every one of these test they never close the hood to check the entire system and the effectiveness of the heat shield and or box used in the system.
Craigslue, you are right even they never close the hood on the Dyno test effectiveness of the air intake systems and their entirety to see which works best off course no is going to drive down the street with their hood open, what about air intake temps? Even though there's heatshield where's the cold coming from for a denser air charge. In my opinion it is short RAM intake that's not secluded from the engine bay, yeah you can give your products name's but does really serve it's purpose behind the name by or just gimmick and lies
@@francojordan8048 You're absolutely right. I've only personally experienced TWO "true CAI" Intakes. - My 02 Mustang GT. The Intake Tube LEAVES the Engine Bay completely! The Inlet and Filter are inside the right Fenderwell. - My 87 Buick Grand National (GAWD I miss her!). The Inlet and Filter were fed by a Nylon Ram Air Scoop that mounted under the front Bumper. The ONLY CAI I've installed, that actually gave me a seat of the pants difference!!! The rest.... They look cool, they sound cool. And although they don't give an appreciable increase in Power... What they DO, is increase the *potential* of many of your other Mods. That one is definitely not mentioned enough! 😉
PoorManRC did your GN have a intercooler? Because if that’s so you don’t need a “cold air” intake, you want to lessen restriction. Intercooler is what keeps intake air temps down
craigslue yup a guy on r/t lifes channel says they do the tests with the hood open and that closed box’s are the best people who do these tests need to close the hood then see what happens i bet there jaw will drop lol 😂
@@JW-23 Not so!! Your delusional if you actually believe that. Stock air intake systems are restrictive. Common sense should tell you that just by looking at one. No dyno needed unless you want to know how much more power you are making with the Hi Performance, aftermarket system when compared to stock.
I know you guys are about good quality parts, but I would've liked to see a knock off eBay intake in the mix just for shiggles. There will always be people tempted by cheap parts, so I'm always curious as to how they compare. Plus, intakes will be the ultimate argument of car forums until the end of the internal combustion engine, so if it works, there's more fuel for that fire.
i guarantee the 39.99 chinese kits make comparable power as any of the name brand stuff the chinese stuff uses the same plastic and or aluminum mandrel bent pipes and the same filter materials. now the chinese kits probably dont fit as nice as name brand but they work just fine.
Not a good way to test... close the hood and try, after all that's how you actually drive around. The closed hood will show design and heat sheild differences.
malamri424 turbo vehicles have the intercooler to cool air, you want to lessen restriction with a turbo vehicle. My Speed6 makes 26 more whp over the stock intake system with a 3.5” intake over the stock 2.5”-2.75” intake and pancake pipe.... having a good intercooler is what you need to keep intake air temps down
@@sleeper.simulant7327 A Tune, just for adding an aftermarket air cleaner? Really? So then what are all of those electronics and sensors under the hood for? Not needed for that. Yes, it can be needed for adding a lot of other modifications to the car, but not really for that. Do you know that removing a stock intake can actually reduce the hp/torque, due to the air now being rough when it enters the intake manifold? You know, because the factory intake actually smooths out the air and helps the engine perform better.
my intake sits just in front of the front wheels inside the bumper. no water gets inside. When driving the air would hit the intercooler and go towards the filter. so im getting true cold air. short ram intakes will pull in hot air from the motor and headers. so some people gotta do research.
Very good video, 20 years ago I was like you, digging every single power or exhaust. In reality based on the curve , it makes non significant gain . But in theory , yes. 0-100km/h by 0.001 sec. 1cm.
At 1:05,, step it up and make it a 3 way,,, is a great idea. Just make sure you can hold out for both of them. 1 upset disappointed woman is bad enough. You don't need 2
Any time you add a mod to an engine, you need to retune the ECU to take advantage of it. Additionally -- dyno tests are done with the hood open and the engine bay well ventilated by that big honking fan in front of the car. On the street, the hood will be closed and airflow will vary with speed and conditions. These intakes are all heat shielded but they are still drawing air from under the hood. Underhood air temps get as high as 170F on a typical summer day, and that's hot. Any HP and TQ gains you might get from these things could well disappear or even go negative in real driving conditions.
Modding and tuning a car feels like tuning my gaming rig. Pushing the tuning as far as possible without going past the threshold of diminishing returns, trial and error to find the bottleneck to optimize around and pick the most appropriate next upgrade. Deciding if fuel type and fuel delivery is an option to go farther, like upgrading your PSU and motberboard to shoot for higher OC and controls, hoping the rest of your hardware doesnt burst into flames from the extra juice. Finally being satisfied with the outcome when your SO asks "oh, its done? Cool! So how much did all that cost?" And you stare off into space, wishing you had already calculated a believable number that wont piss her off TOO bad, especially when months later you cancel vacation plans and hope she doesnt put 2 and 2 together...but she will, its the first thing she'll think of, because every day she sees that car or PC, or anyone mentions a car or PC, she cant help but imagine all the things SHE would have done with that money. You COULD reply that the grass is always greener, but youre no dummy, you k ow better than to start making casual comparisons "so im a car/pc to you?" "So some machine is more important than me?" Or is shes a joker like my ex wife "does not compute...sexbot malfunction...please upload vacation or return product to manufacturer" and yes, it was an ultimatum, and yes I went i to debt for a salvage vacation, we broke up for different reasons, not a car or a pc...more like a car AND a pc....and some other things
Bigger intake pipe doesnt mean more power, especially w/o tweaking with the tune/MAF/MAP parameters. Take a look at HP Academy's video on the Honda/Acura race team's Pikes Peak Acura TSX vid. They breifly go into detail about why changing pipe size and maf location could have negative results. The science behind it is interesting.
If you go back to our dyno video on the Mustang, you'll see we tuned the 4-inch intake and didn't make any real gains over the stock sized MAF diameter tubing so our thoughts are you need to be making big power (400whp+) to see gains on larger diameter intakes like the Air Raid.
This is why u do testing lmao!! If u keep beleiving companies..you are stucked beleiving what they say 😂😂 I allways made more power then aem intakes...
Would you be able to do a dyno test going back to the original if possible. Would be really Intrested to see what differences there are. I run a k and n factory replacement on my original set Up would be Intrested to see if it makes any difference as well.
To be completely scientific, it would have been nice to test the stock intake as well as take the time to tune each intake and compare those results to each other. With that being said, these all follow essentially the same design, install in the same location, and implement similar insulation; it only makes sense that they perform nearly identically (within a statistical error rate to boot). Not a bad video overall.
I concur. I would have liked the stock for a baseline to weigh the results. That said, the term cold air intake is kind of ironic, because they draw more warm air from under the hood than stock intakes. Hmmm...
@@scottt7400Current stock intakes are CAI. These are all CAI relative to the old can & spout that used to sit on top of the engine. Why they decided to call them CAI vs HFI (high flow intake), IDK...???
Stock intake tests have already been done, with results available elsewhere. These particular kits don't require tuning, and for most people would be used as is. At the end they mentioned this wasn't a be all end all test. Unfortunately, in this life if there's something you're wanting to know you have to determine it yerself... And there's also manufacturers test results to reference (they don't do their testing for no reason). And either way it's not on your veh., etc.
The bigger the better But for a small to medium pod filter the 3A was tested as the best. We have alot of Aussie made intakes. That are Aussie car specific. Obviously the more surface area the better. Oiled filters tend to dirty up the electronic airflow sensor's in the intakes.
What you are really testing is the performance of filter attached to the CAI because the hood is up and the fan is blowing. If the hood is closed, the CAI will need to make sure it does not suck the hot air from the engine bay and badly designed CAI ones will show itself then.
Airaid baby For My Denali truck I buy every year new use to work for GM I used K&N 77 series switched and I notice on the top top end of the speedo and with the hood closed on the dyno airaid made 2 more hp all the way through the rev band.
OK if we gonna just test intakes than what they did was fine but if we're gonna check cold air intakes then we need to close the hood turn off the fan start the test then turn on the fan watch the improvements on a hot engine with hot air and then with cold air being forced under the hood
Thank goodness!, This guy actually uses real products and does a real test to show the differences. Saw a kid earlier try to portray something and he had it all wrong although well intended. Feels good to see people do things the right way.
Tyres > Brakes > Suspension > Motor > Furry Dice > Air Filter Simplistic order of best performance/coin. The inexperienced will always do it in reverse order. Because a carbon fiber air intake from eBay that promises +30BHP!! is just way cooler than a set of Cup Sports or AD08R’s or something.
actually what these systems do is free up restrictive stock systems which bring down your intake temps due to lower air friction leading into the intake which you will notice on ur dummy temp gauge as my truck runs a notch lower than what it used too. cooler running engine creates longer durability to internals and combined with the proper upgrades will let the air pump to run more efficient which in turn makes it capable of producing larger numbers when real power adders are added
Driving on the road would show up differences between heat shield effectiveness....The K&N looks best due to formed plastic section. Some good mods there...MNAHGT Cams HHASSEEDX Pistons and a FDESST Manifold.......
I think the main arguement is, does a cold air intake even matter. It's not that they left the hood open, because they left it open on all. Not left the hood open on one, closed on another, and open again. I would say for the test, the same conditions were set for each. I think the majority of people are looking for the real answer of stock intake vs CAI. Hell, maybe even stock vs no-tune vs tune. But I just want to know if there actually is a difference from stock, and if they do make a difference, can the no-tune ones do just as good as the tune ones. Once you realize that your CAI needs another $400 added to the price for the tuner, it stings a bit lol.
What most people forget when dumping the original air box for some of these after market jobs is that often but not always the manufacturers of the original have usually designed them to prevent hydro locking the motor and many of these cold air etc aftermarket jobs don't have any such protection.
wha neeeeeever heard of this before ever. the factory intakes are silencers. they do it to pass noise regulations made by the epa. plus old people don't want to hear that dang intake noise lol.
That's true too. my comment is an in general one that covers all vehicles as it is mostly off road vehicles that need to worry about it But there is one AMG driver I've seen on UA-cam who even with a factory setup got hydrolocked in bad weather.
I’m going out on a limb here and saying the stock intake manifold and heads are the flow restrictions, not the air intake. Try a 100mm air intake and bigger TB. All the intakes tested weren’t much bigger than stock.
I remember a video where the guys installed long tube headers on a small block chevy. They had it on the dyno and were smashing each tube with a hammer bit by bit, until they were almost flat lol. Dyno numbers didn't really change. 🤣
I would have liked to seen the test with the hood down as the vehicle would be running true. With the open hood your not getting a real test between the different cold air intakes. You may have seen a different between them. But I don’t think it would have changed. But would have been good to see if it did change with the hood closed.
Reading some of the comments and it cracks me up. But.... But.... But... But nothing there all the same. 🤣 Thanks for the video guys. Also I was going to put one of those intake spacers in but not now. Thanks again 👍
I think if you fine tune that AEM it will give you power. Coz thats the only intake that has different power curves..like any other part if not tune youll loose power at first but when tuned then youl see the difference.. Thats what i think.
3:22 why does the heat shield not matter? Also did the AEM peform worse due to heat soak? Being that the piping is metal and not plastic like the others?
The heat shield doenst matter since we are running with an open hood. In real world driving its worth having. It could be the diameter of the piping but they were all so close when you think of the outcome.
I have to review this technology further, yet being in the filtration business for both gases and liquids for +20 years, something that is sadly missed is the possible loss of particulate protection to your engine. After watching a UA-cam video by Project Farm on the effectiveness or lack there of (K&N style) of different air filters, it makes sense one can get more air through some of these hyped up filters as they allowed +1000% more particles through them as well. I guess if one is bent on more power, then buy a different vehicle or more powerful engine to begin with or do like some of you and sacrifice your engine wear $$$ for some “perceived” need of further power boost. Oh yeah, also being a member of STLE (Lube Engineers), even a small amount of particulate will go a long way to engine wear and premature maintenance requirements.
It's a tube with a filter. It's not going to make very much difference unless one is designed very poorly. It may not make any difference at all depending on the car. You may actually lose power if the manufacturer designed a good box to begin with. I wrote this before the results, so if it turns out different than what I said, I will apologize. Ok well I just finished it. These things are usually a waste of money. Many cars have ducts that pull in cooler air from outside the car. When the end of the intake is inside the engine bay, what you've got is hot air. I had a car where I cut hole and mounted the filter close to the ground. Now that may give you some up, but if you put it in a place where the density of air is lower, a semi-vacuum kind of condition, you'll probably end up losing power with th at set up as well. Not to mention I hydrolocked th at motor twice and was lucky I didn't break anything. H23 motor, which is an old Honda motor. Thing was bullet proof.
The mustangs stock intake was pretty restrictive and if you watch an earlier video the K&N made power over it but as you said the aftermarket intakes are all pretty efficient. The only reason we did this test because someone was convinced that the Air Raid would make more power than the K&N junk as he called it.
Nah... should've tested with the hoods closed. The heatshield also plays an important factor making a tight seal on the hood to block the hot air from engine bay
Canned tunes are such a waste of $. A solid protune is worth every penny, significant gains throughout the power band and cleans up timing and fuel trims nicely
it's funny how people think one horsepower doesn't matter, back in the old West one horse is all most people had
This isn't the old west. $300 for 1 hp? I'll just go buy a used horse.
matthew anderson 😁
@@AdamWaddle lmao so true
U want a scholarship to Harvard ?
Idk if this makes a point. Still its hilarious.
I would of liked to see a baseline with the stock intake.
Then just watch the video again. The stock intake will make about the same power until you really start to deviate from the stock engine. Aftermarket "cold" air Intakes on most street cars are usually just for looking cool.
In conclusion: there is no difference.
You're all welcome
In conclusion: that’s YOUR unsubstantiated opinion. Everybody else, you’re all welcome.
@@RedEye19
...uh, no, that's what they actually said.
But hey, you're welcome 😄
It looks cool, and makes the vehicle sound better....and something else to spend money on.......which I have to much of anyway .....right!!!!
In conclusion: stock intake had more power over all of them...
I don’t mess with intakes anymore and go straight to headers , muffler , etc
Thanx
but...but...but...guys. brand X's pipe and filter is super superior to brand Y's idential pipe and comparable filter!
For me, it goes to show just how good intake design can influence the torque curve.
Your first two runs show that the experiment is consistant by the fact that both curves sit right on top of each other for shape. Good job of elliminating experimental error.
Now, that loss of torque at around 4200rpm on the third intake - that's around 5 or 6% along with a 1-2% loss lower down.
I realise that you were being "diplomatic" but for me that would be a pisser. 5% at 4200rpm is NOT insignificant - that's a direct 5% loss of acceleration, right where it's best utilised on the road too.
Remember, it's TORQUE that accelerates a car, NOT power.
Great video, great experimentation, well put together, but guys ... tell it like it is.
You've gained a subscriber.
This actually proves that throttle body spacers make you lose power. Good test 👍
Should’ve tested the $50 eBay special as well.
Its just a pipe so the one that had similar dimensions should make similar power with a proper intake. But truuue
Guys, in my opinion, when the engineers design the intakes systems, they do emulate the real scenario. They are not thinking that we are running our cars with the hood opened. I think, to do a fair comparison of this kind of things, you have to emulate the real conditions as much as possible. Hopefully, that might do the difference, like the spacer between the throttle and the intake manifold to not transfer the heat to the intake....
Btw, I love the channel and the focus of the content. Good job!
Oh totally, this is the best real world testing we have access to. Next time we'll try with the hood closed.
the hood shud be closed so that the intake can create suction
I think one issue with all of these tests is the hood is open and a big fan is blowing at the intake so it doesn't really represent real world conditions. I understand a dyno test is like that but this gives an advantage to these air filters vs stock snorkel type intakes. I would bet on the road with hood closed there is no difference and possible a decrease in horsepower as the stock intakes insulate against heat better and route the air better with hood closed my 2 cents.
there is a video by engineering explained that just used aftermarket drop in filters and saw a 3-5% gain I believe in HP and torque using a k&n filter over the stock one
Run the test with the hood closed. See which one actually still pulls cold air in.
@@MaDDeX93 Not so. The K&N Filter on their Intake Systems are designed to act like a ram air system where air is sucked in. Thats why they are shapped like a cone.
Duh dude!! Please use your brain.
@@extremedrivr thats not ram air lol. Ram air sucks in oitside air and is actually in the direct path of incoming air, not sitting under the hood. Already widely known cai are a waste
@@trudeaumustgo1920 A waste huh?? Check this video and see how uneducated you are.
ua-cam.com/video/weZrNmISjaE/v-deo.html
And you obviously don't understand how air flows because with a CAI like K&N for example, the air is comming from under the vehicle or from the grill depending on the vehicle and engine because the heat shield is blocking the under hood air.
So your point is moot.
The plastic would stay cooler
@@extremedrivr coldest air is out side the engine bay, where stock intakes get their air, not under the hood. Yeah lets suck air from 6 inches beside the header. You probably drive a civic and think you just gained 100hp
The two aftermarket ADR intakes that made the most HP in Australia.
Were the Harrop over the radiator intake and the Walkinshaw airbox intake.
Always fun watching the boys doing dyno shoot outs... I miss the badass 2000 though
Cool comparison! I'm currently running an Airaid MXP on my truck (FBO+/Up/Rev tuned). Just FYI - The MXP is the only "4" CAI available on the market for my truck & definitely better than the AEM Bruteforce that it replaced. I recently swapped out the MXP filter itself for an RC2 Black Hex Series one. I really like the design of the RC2, it's non-oiled & super easy to clean also!
Forgot to use provided stickers from the manufacturer, those add couple HP though.
Always down to watch a good three way video. 🤣
A. I cant speak for all cars, but I tested my intakes temperature before and after a SRI install and the difference was minimal. What I did notice was that the stock intake sucked up more water then the SRI.
B. Before you criticize someone for putting an intake on there car, stop and think that it might be there first project or first time picking up tools if they even have any tools at all. It's a car part that they can afford and is super easy to install with basic tools. At least there trying to learn.
Installed k&n filter in my 96 Chevy. Don't feel more power but I have way better throttle response. And you can hear the engine breathing lol
i wanna see an RX8 dyno between the revi from racing beat the K&N typhoon v2 and an Ebay kit form like AF dynamics built as a dead knock off form the K&N
I think it's funny that every one of these test they never close the hood to check the entire system and the effectiveness of the heat shield and or box used in the system.
craigslue it’s to stop the engine overheating, the fan is not nearly enough to provide adequate air
Craigslue, you are right even they never close the hood on the Dyno test effectiveness of the air intake systems and their entirety to see which works best off course no is going to drive down the street with their hood open, what about air intake temps? Even though there's heatshield where's the cold coming from for a denser air charge. In my opinion it is short RAM intake that's not secluded from the engine bay, yeah you can give your products name's but does really serve it's purpose behind the name by or just gimmick and lies
@@francojordan8048 You're absolutely right. I've only personally experienced TWO "true CAI" Intakes.
- My 02 Mustang GT. The Intake Tube LEAVES the Engine Bay completely! The Inlet and Filter are inside the right Fenderwell.
- My 87 Buick Grand National (GAWD I miss her!). The Inlet and Filter were fed by a Nylon Ram Air Scoop that mounted under the front Bumper.
The ONLY CAI I've installed, that actually gave me a seat of the pants difference!!!
The rest.... They look cool, they sound cool. And although they don't give an appreciable increase in Power...
What they DO, is increase the *potential* of many of your other Mods.
That one is definitely not mentioned enough! 😉
PoorManRC did your GN have a intercooler? Because if that’s so you don’t need a “cold air” intake, you want to lessen restriction. Intercooler is what keeps intake air temps down
craigslue yup a guy on r/t lifes channel says they do the tests with the hood open and that closed box’s are the best people who do these tests need to close the hood then see what happens i bet there jaw will drop lol 😂
No testing of stock intake?
Stock without the tune will win most the time. Most cold air intakes are a HUUGE waste with out the warranty killing tune.
@@JW-23 I always listen to my armchair mechanic LMAO
@@JW-23 Not so!! Your delusional if you actually believe that. Stock air intake systems are restrictive.
Common sense should tell you that just by looking at one.
No dyno needed unless you want to know how much more power you are making with the Hi Performance, aftermarket system when compared to stock.
@@extremedrivr keep telling yourself that. You probably have a civic with an intake and fart can brappimg around thinking your so much faster now.
You actually lose power with cold air intakes , but you gain awesome sound! It's only a loss of 5-10 hp so you don't notice it.
This is a great video I would love to see one for 5.3 or 6.0 Silverado between Aem, air raid,banks and volant.
Like that input you had in the end as opposed to some videos, articles, and forums, not a lot, just saying this is better than that.
I know you guys are about good quality parts, but I would've liked to see a knock off eBay intake in the mix just for shiggles. There will always be people tempted by cheap parts, so I'm always curious as to how they compare. Plus, intakes will be the ultimate argument of car forums until the end of the internal combustion engine, so if it works, there's more fuel for that fire.
Scott Ryman, yo mean you're the cheap-ass who's tempted by cheap china parts..LOL Speak for yourself next time!! lol jk..
Just spell out shitz and giggles. Millennials are so damn lazy.
Dee EM boo
i guarantee the 39.99 chinese kits make comparable power as any of the name brand stuff the chinese stuff uses the same plastic and or aluminum mandrel bent pipes and the same filter materials. now the chinese kits probably dont fit as nice as name brand but they work just fine.
@@whitehistorymonth3563 yeah says the entitled boomer that wants everything to be handed to them because they're old.
Not a good way to test... close the hood and try, after all that's how you actually drive around. The closed hood will show design and heat sheild differences.
malamri424 turbo vehicles have the intercooler to cool air, you want to lessen restriction with a turbo vehicle. My Speed6 makes 26 more whp over the stock intake system with a 3.5” intake over the stock 2.5”-2.75” intake and pancake pipe.... having a good intercooler is what you need to keep intake air temps down
@@sleeper.simulant7327 , Was there a turbo on the car in this video?
Jeremiah Mckenna no, but freeing up restriction with a aftermarket intake coupled with a tune will always net bigger hp gains on n/a or boosted
@@sleeper.simulant7327 A Tune, just for adding an aftermarket air cleaner? Really? So then what are all of those electronics and sensors under the hood for? Not needed for that. Yes, it can be needed for adding a lot of other modifications to the car, but not really for that.
Do you know that removing a stock intake can actually reduce the hp/torque, due to the air now being rough when it enters the intake manifold? You know, because the factory intake actually smooths out the air and helps the engine perform better.
my intake sits just in front of the front wheels inside the bumper. no water gets inside. When driving the air would hit the intercooler and go towards the filter. so im getting true cold air. short ram intakes will pull in hot air from the motor and headers. so some people gotta do research.
I’ve been looking for someone that Dyno’s each kind. Great video
Well said, that’s why I watch your stuff. Always trying to be sensible in a hobby filled with emotional, quick to conclude hot heads 👍
Very good video, 20 years ago I was like you, digging every single power or exhaust. In reality based on the curve , it makes non significant gain . But in theory , yes. 0-100km/h by 0.001 sec. 1cm.
Why do this and not include stock intake results?
At 1:05,, step it up and make it a 3 way,,, is a great idea. Just make sure you can hold out for both of them. 1 upset disappointed woman is bad enough. You don't need 2
Would be cool to try hood closed runs, to see real world hp gains
Excellent point
Any time you add a mod to an engine, you need to retune the ECU to take advantage of it. Additionally -- dyno tests are done with the hood open and the engine bay well ventilated by that big honking fan in front of the car. On the street, the hood will be closed and airflow will vary with speed and conditions. These intakes are all heat shielded but they are still drawing air from under the hood. Underhood air temps get as high as 170F on a typical summer day, and that's hot. Any HP and TQ gains you might get from these things could well disappear or even go negative in real driving conditions.
I knew it is just engine sound changing option. But man, feels like u gain so much power when install it.
I loved watching horsepower TV on the weekends as a kid with those two older men. They were funny!
Thanks for the video. Would be interesting to see if adding the spacer to the other two recreated the same dips in the curve.
Great video! I'm happy with my K&N intake.
Congrats on 150k guys!
S&b is the best looking intake kit, it seal all the hot air coming from the engine and it sound awesome.
Don’t u need to close the hood for more REALITY like result!? With fans blowing air on front for sure.
Why havent you guys tested with a Standard intake aswell, just put it in the same diagram :) ! Whould love to see that.
Modding and tuning a car feels like tuning my gaming rig. Pushing the tuning as far as possible without going past the threshold of diminishing returns, trial and error to find the bottleneck to optimize around and pick the most appropriate next upgrade. Deciding if fuel type and fuel delivery is an option to go farther, like upgrading your PSU and motberboard to shoot for higher OC and controls, hoping the rest of your hardware doesnt burst into flames from the extra juice. Finally being satisfied with the outcome when your SO asks "oh, its done? Cool! So how much did all that cost?" And you stare off into space, wishing you had already calculated a believable number that wont piss her off TOO bad, especially when months later you cancel vacation plans and hope she doesnt put 2 and 2 together...but she will, its the first thing she'll think of, because every day she sees that car or PC, or anyone mentions a car or PC, she cant help but imagine all the things SHE would have done with that money. You COULD reply that the grass is always greener, but youre no dummy, you k ow better than to start making casual comparisons "so im a car/pc to you?" "So some machine is more important than me?" Or is shes a joker like my ex wife "does not compute...sexbot malfunction...please upload vacation or return product to manufacturer" and yes, it was an ultimatum, and yes I went i to debt for a salvage vacation, we broke up for different reasons, not a car or a pc...more like a car AND a pc....and some other things
Bigger intake pipe doesnt mean more power, especially w/o tweaking with the tune/MAF/MAP parameters. Take a look at HP Academy's video on the Honda/Acura race team's Pikes Peak Acura TSX vid. They breifly go into detail about why changing pipe size and maf location could have negative results. The science behind it is interesting.
If you go back to our dyno video on the Mustang, you'll see we tuned the 4-inch intake and didn't make any real gains over the stock sized MAF diameter tubing so our thoughts are you need to be making big power (400whp+) to see gains on larger diameter intakes like the Air Raid.
This is why u do testing lmao!!
If u keep beleiving companies..you are stucked beleiving what they say 😂😂
I allways made more power then aem intakes...
You should try the factory air box again the cold air intake
Would you be able to do a dyno test going back to the original if possible. Would be really Intrested to see what differences there are. I run a k and n factory replacement on my original set Up would be Intrested to see if it makes any difference as well.
It’s time for a new build series please 🙏🏼
Ahmed_A5G e
To be completely scientific, it would have been nice to test the stock intake as well as take the time to tune each intake and compare those results to each other. With that being said, these all follow essentially the same design, install in the same location, and implement similar insulation; it only makes sense that they perform nearly identically (within a statistical error rate to boot). Not a bad video overall.
I concur. I would have liked the stock for a baseline to weigh the results. That said, the term cold air intake is kind of ironic, because they draw more warm air from under the hood than stock intakes. Hmmm...
@@scottt7400Current stock intakes are CAI. These are all CAI relative to the old can & spout that used to sit on top of the engine. Why they decided to call them CAI vs HFI (high flow intake), IDK...???
Stock intake tests have already been done, with results available elsewhere. These particular kits don't require tuning, and for most people would be used as is. At the end they mentioned this wasn't a be all end all test. Unfortunately, in this life if there's something you're wanting to know you have to determine it yerself... And there's also manufacturers test results to reference (they don't do their testing for no reason). And either way it's not on your veh., etc.
AIRAIDE IS #1.IF YOUR REASUNG THIS GET ON OFF OF AMAZON...TRIED K&N. BUT IT WAS RESTICTED.. AIRAIDE.. WAS AMAZING
Love how diplomatic you have to be
The bigger the better
But for a small to medium pod filter the 3A was tested as the best.
We have alot of Aussie made intakes.
That are Aussie car specific.
Obviously the more surface area the better.
Oiled filters tend to dirty up the electronic airflow sensor's in the intakes.
Tbh, I think the AEM curve dip is from the spacer usage.
What you are really testing is the performance of filter attached to the CAI because the hood is up and the fan is blowing. If the hood is closed, the CAI will need to make sure it does not suck the hot air from the engine bay and badly designed CAI ones will show itself then.
Airaid baby For My Denali truck I buy every year new use to work for GM I used K&N 77 series switched and I notice on the top top end of the speedo and with the hood closed on the dyno airaid made 2 more hp all the way through the rev band.
OK if we gonna just test intakes than what they did was fine but if we're gonna check cold air intakes then we need to close the hood turn off the fan start the test then turn on the fan watch the improvements on a hot engine with hot air and then with cold air being forced under the hood
Thank goodness!, This guy actually uses real products and does a real test to show the differences. Saw a kid earlier try to portray something and he had it all wrong although well intended. Feels good to see people do things the right way.
I have a 2020 Challenger RT and just added an AFE Momentum GT intake and I gained 3 10ths off my 0-60 times.
Thanks, Rough Country is $100 cheaper than K&N kit and S&B. So this answers my question
What about the stock setup?
Tyres > Brakes > Suspension > Motor > Furry Dice > Air Filter
Simplistic order of best performance/coin. The inexperienced will always do it in reverse order. Because a carbon fiber air intake from eBay that promises +30BHP!! is just way cooler than a set of Cup Sports or AD08R’s or something.
The inexperienced allways talks about an order to do things...
actually what these systems do is free up restrictive stock systems which bring down your intake temps due to lower air friction leading into the intake which you will notice on ur dummy temp gauge as my truck runs a notch lower than what it used too. cooler running engine creates longer durability to internals and combined with the proper upgrades will let the air pump to run more efficient which in turn makes it capable of producing larger numbers when real power adders are added
Best intake is a pipe out the headlight with velocity stack at the end
That's what all the pro's do because it is best.... NOT! LOL
Where's the Ass2000? We NEED ITB's!!!
Ever since the motor took a dump, it seems they have moved on
K&N should make a little scoop option somewhere so the filter is to get outside fresh air blowing into the filter enclosure somehow.
Driving on the road would show up differences between heat shield effectiveness....The K&N looks best due to formed plastic section. Some good mods there...MNAHGT Cams HHASSEEDX Pistons and a FDESST Manifold.......
Would love to see a K&N filter in the stock air box for comparison results?
I for one am a big fan of the Mustang series keep it up fellas .
I don't even drive a Mustang but I really appreciate your thoughtful & unbiased summary at the end. You guys make great videos!
I think the main arguement is, does a cold air intake even matter. It's not that they left the hood open, because they left it open on all. Not left the hood open on one, closed on another, and open again. I would say for the test, the same conditions were set for each. I think the majority of people are looking for the real answer of stock intake vs CAI. Hell, maybe even stock vs no-tune vs tune. But I just want to know if there actually is a difference from stock, and if they do make a difference, can the no-tune ones do just as good as the tune ones. Once you realize that your CAI needs another $400 added to the price for the tuner, it stings a bit lol.
What most people forget when dumping the original air box for some of these after market jobs is that often but not always the manufacturers of the original have usually designed them to prevent hydro locking the motor and many of these cold air etc aftermarket jobs don't have any such protection.
wha neeeeeever heard of this before ever. the factory intakes are silencers. they do it to pass noise regulations made by the epa. plus old people don't want to hear that dang intake noise lol.
That's true too. my comment is an in general one that covers all vehicles as it is mostly off road vehicles that need to worry about it
But there is one AMG driver I've seen on UA-cam who even with a factory setup got hydrolocked in bad weather.
I know it’s late but thanks for taking the time to make this video.
I’m going out on a limb here and saying the stock intake manifold and heads are the flow restrictions, not the air intake.
Try a 100mm air intake and bigger TB. All the intakes tested weren’t much bigger than stock.
I remember a video where the guys installed long tube headers on a small block chevy. They had it on the dyno and were smashing each tube with a hammer bit by bit, until they were almost flat lol. Dyno numbers didn't really change. 🤣
I would have liked to seen the test with the hood down as the vehicle would be running true. With the open hood your not getting a real test between the different cold air intakes. You may have seen a different between them. But I don’t think it would have changed. But would have been good to see if it did change with the hood closed.
pls take my 370z and test stock intake vs ram air vs stillen gen 3 ultra long tube intake
Reading some of the comments and it cracks me up. But.... But.... But... But nothing there all the same. 🤣 Thanks for the video guys. Also I was going to put one of those intake spacers in but not now. Thanks again 👍
Should’ve done one more test on the air raid without the restriction insert.
What kind of power did stock intake make?
I think if you fine tune that AEM it will give you power. Coz thats the only intake that has different power curves..like any other part if not tune youll loose power at first but when tuned then youl see the difference.. Thats what i think.
Working on the same car I am with the same mods I’m looking to put on my car? That’s an immediate sub gained
3:22 why does the heat shield not matter?
Also did the AEM peform worse due to heat soak? Being that the piping is metal and not plastic like the others?
The heat shield doenst matter since we are running with an open hood. In real world driving its worth having.
It could be the diameter of the piping but they were all so close when you think of the outcome.
I have to review this technology further, yet being in the filtration business for both gases and liquids for +20 years, something that is sadly missed is the possible loss of particulate protection to your engine. After watching a UA-cam video by Project Farm on the effectiveness or lack there of (K&N style) of different air filters, it makes sense one can get more air through some of these hyped up filters as they allowed +1000% more particles through them as well. I guess if one is bent on more power, then buy a different vehicle or more powerful engine to begin with or do like some of you and sacrifice your engine wear $$$ for some “perceived” need of further power boost. Oh yeah, also being a member of STLE (Lube Engineers), even a small amount of particulate will go a long way to engine wear and premature maintenance requirements.
Test the stock box with the silencer removed and just a cheap new filter in it.
Take the spacer of the aem the tube from the k&n and the filter/heatshield from the air raid and you get the best of all 3 .. Maybe gain another .2 hp
heat shields do matter there is a video on the VMP channel i believe
Try the other filters with the spacer!
It's a tube with a filter. It's not going to make very much difference unless one is designed very poorly. It may not make any difference at all depending on the car. You may actually lose power if the manufacturer designed a good box to begin with.
I wrote this before the results, so if it turns out different than what I said, I will apologize.
Ok well I just finished it. These things are usually a waste of money. Many cars have ducts that pull in cooler air from outside the car. When the end of the intake is inside the engine bay, what you've got is hot air. I had a car where I cut hole and mounted the filter close to the ground. Now that may give you some up, but if you put it in a place where the density of air is lower, a semi-vacuum kind of condition, you'll probably end up losing power with th at set up as well. Not to mention I hydrolocked th at motor twice and was lucky I didn't break anything. H23 motor, which is an old Honda motor. Thing was bullet proof.
The mustangs stock intake was pretty restrictive and if you watch an earlier video the K&N made power over it but as you said the aftermarket intakes are all pretty efficient. The only reason we did this test because someone was convinced that the Air Raid would make more power than the K&N junk as he called it.
I would liked to have seen the stock unit also
Volant Close Box Air Intakes! Thats what's im running on my CTS
Nah... should've tested with the hoods closed. The heatshield also plays an important factor making a tight seal on the hood to block the hot air from engine bay
You Should test with Stock Also So Everyone could see how much was actually gained! And if its actually worth buying!
why dont you use the stock one in this test?
go watch MCM
Seven horses in the sky.
HP only equates to top speed, torque is the only true measurement for an engines power and determines how fast you get off the line!👍
Good enough for me! K&N it is! (It’s the cheapest price)
You guys are missing somewhere around 30-40whp in that tune with the mods that you have done, is this strictly on the SCT canned tuner?
Canned tunes are such a waste of $. A solid protune is worth every penny, significant gains throughout the power band and cleans up timing and fuel trims nicely
K&N filters makes the air raid filter and AEM. And more mullet mustang videos please.
You have to take em out on the road under atmospheric pressure
I wonder if the Stock intake would do better? :-P
The bonnet should have been closed.. with a fan blowing over all the intakes.. it makes the heat shields null and void...
Thanks for the comparison this was great!
AEM is definitely the coolest tough so that is a win for AEM for me.