You should do a DIY car series where every single part of the car is completely handmade like this. So you have DIY intake, body kit, aero, And just really lean into the r/shitty_car_mods kind of build. Maybe not a series, but it would be really funny to see a donut shitty car
@@yeanah2571 I mean, most all stock intakes are already a pvc plastic, so replacing it with a heavier walled plastic to relocate the intake doesn't seem unreasonable really....especially if you went to Princess Auto and grabbed some fibre glass wrap for another 20 dollars.
I heard that because of how much they were revving the engine, and how high California gas prices are, this is the most expensive video Donut has made to date
California should just be it's own country They're all moving to Texas with their retarded ideologies here 🙄 Just look at Austin My god some people shouldn't even be allowed to live life
Sorry for hacking and I'm late to comment. I'm doing this more than decade. So if you want to replace Air filter too ? Because you will want to. Why because there is better and cheaper version. Look for large displacement diesel engine air filters like 1993 - 2006 hyundai h-100. Most of them similar to this and much cheaper.
@@ROCKETMANN56 if im being honest they expanded into other context too quickly, they had the bread and butter which was up to speed(fkn amazing series), they had nolans show(forgot the name lol), their version of build biology, and high low. all were popular, then they went into territory that is pretty much saturated in terms of content and what was already available, it became the same generic stuff you could find on hoovies, tavarish, cleetus, adam lz etc, who arent easy to compete with, donut is slowly dying hence why nearly every video has begging for likes subs, notifications etc etc, theres so much automotive stuff to talk about for up to speed yet they killed it.
I could also see this being a good way to template a custom air intake for cars that don't have off the shelf kits. Figure out all your cuts and angles in plastic and then go order the aluminum you actually need rather than guessing with more expensive materials.
@@GrockleTDjust use system 636 pvc, or cpvc if you have heat prone engine bay. Its what has replaces metal venting for modern gas appliances and has a higher heat rating, plus is designed for flue gas/temperatures. Going to cost a bit more than abs, but would be under the 200$ cost of a basic "cold" air intake kit
@GrockleTD Been there and done that in my late teens wanting a "cold air intake" for an ef sedan that belonged to my dad but somehow only I drove, all the while having zero budget, cheap spectre cone filter from autozone with employee discount and extra dryer hose left over from servicing the dryer. It looked good for all of about 10 seconds before start up and revving to just off idle, way too much vacuum, literally imploded a hole right throw that flimsy foil material. The heavier thin gauge sheet metal dryer piping may possibly be a different story though, who knows till you try and prove or disprove a potentially dumb idea but maybe brilliant. Just maybe.
I'm driving my car with that type of intake for around 5 years and I had no issues so far :) I made it suck cold air from the lower part of the bumper and it works really good :)
Because of how thermodynamics work (heat transfer) it is entirely fine to use this in this application. While the surrounding temperature might exceed the temperature rating of the ABS pipe. The cold air moving through it at a high rate of speed will cool it down faster than the heat from the nearby motor will heat it up. It comes down to the efficiency of heat transfer of convection heat transfer (the heat coming off of the engine) vs the efficiency of advection (the heat transfer from the pipe to the air moving through it) advection transfers heat energy at a much higher rate than convection. It the same reason why air fryers work faster than convection ovens. It's the constant movement of air.
But what about when the car is parked after a hot ride, engine compartment soaking in its heat? Would you need a turbo-timer also hooked up to a fan, just to cool down the engine compartment, before shutting off, just to protect PVC?
I can tell you from experience, all the science in the world wont save a poop pipe from the heat in an engine bay. Temps while driving aren't the problem, it's afterwards that the temps rise.
Heat wrap traps the heat inside of whatever you wrap. Heat wrap would be done to headers/exhaust manifold as it traps heat. They’d want reflective gold or a heat shield.
They're resistant enough and cheap enough that they don't need to be permanent. Just replace it whenever you replace the air filter. Once a year or so.
@@Flako92 Yes and no. PVC is naturally very hard, brittle and hard to mold, so they normally have substances called "plastifiers" to make them, well, plastic. Different proportions of different plastifiers can make two objects made of the same base polymer have completely different characteristics. That said, if they could, they should go for pipes made for hot water, which can withstand temps near boiling point.
A long time ago I build a Toyota Tercel. It was my first (road legal) car as a teen. I gutted the hell out of it. 1 seat, no interior, all lexan glass aside from the windshield. It was so light I could pick it up and move it over into another parking spot. Lol. I made a cold air intake with hardware store pipes that took air from a vent in a fender. I did end up wrapping it in aluminum tape to protect from heat near the engine but I never had an issue with it. It was a ton of fun. It had a 1.5L and 5sp. I did a whole lot of porting and old school hot rodder tricks and before it blew up on the bottom end I got it on a dyno. It made a whopping 118 whp. Much better than the stock 80hp.
The change when just doing an intake is within their margin of error. The companies that claim big gains, actually walk the claims back in the tests' fine print. K&N even got reprimanded by the Can. Gov for their +30C initial testing, and then 21c (w/ blower fans) when testing their filter.
The change when just doing an intake is within their margin of error. The companies that claim big gains, actually walk the claims back in the tests' fine print. K&N even got reprimanded by the Can. Gov for their +30C initial testing, and then 21c (w/ blower fans) when testing their filter.
The change when just doing an intake is within their margin of error. The companies that claim big gains, actually walk the claims back in the tests' fine print. K&N even got reprimanded by the Can. Gov for their +30C initial testing, and then 21c (w/ blower fans) when testing their filter.
The change when just doing an intake is within their margin of error. The companies that claim big gains, actually walk the claims back in the tests' fine print. K&N even got reprimanded by the Can. Gov for their +30C initial testing, and then 21c (w/ blower fans) when testing their filter.
The change when just doing an intake is within their margin of error. The companies that claim big gains, actually walk the claims back in the tests' fine print. K&N even got reprimanded by the Can. Gov for their +30C initial testing, and then 21c (w/ blower fans) when testing their filter.
You would be surprised how many "professional purpose built" parts are really just stuff they found at the hardware store. My favorite example are the fuel lines on older military aircraft are often literally just garden hoses.
@@MobiAussie yea "mil-spec" adds a lot to the tag, honestly it should because mil spec means every single one of those is the exact same, the j-adapters we use in avionics if you buy the exact same thing civilian side that isn't mill spec it's like 1 in 5 won't work it will be to big or to small for the application. so the military paying really high prices is a combination of "it's a government project so they'll pay 10k even if it only cost us 1k" and it actually costs more because "mil-spec" requires all of the pieces to be the exact same dimensions so you can swap out any 1 garden hose fuel line with any other garden hose fuel line. It's little things like that that i missed most going from the army to civilian work lol.
@@michag4337 Mil-spec also comes with a paper trail for every single part of the process, from the sourcing and smelting of the material to every hand that touched it along the way, at least thats the case in the aviation industry.
I've definitely made an intake out of pvc pipe. I wasn't spending almost $300 for an aluminum tube! It worked perfectly! I ran it for well over a year of daily driving and sitting in traffic... It didn't melt! Save yourself some money (or spend it elsewhere) and make your own!
Did this awhile back for fun. Got around the heat issue by insulating the piping with reflective heat tape. You want the air going in to remain cool, so it doesn't hurt to add it. Besides, the PVC seems to be a pretty sweet insulator as far as incoming air goes. Fun stuff guys. I might have to do this again soon on my current project to see how much better it performs and sounds over the chopped stock intake.
As someone who has had great success using 3D printed parts in the engine bay, this should actually survive pretty well. ABS is pretty temperature resistant and would be a great "I just need something that nobody makes" intake.
I've melted ABS when I hooked it straight up to the turbo inlet, but a silicone coupler to give it a couple inches worked fine for low (7 psi) boost. As long as the pipe isn't touching the manifold or radiator, I don't think it would be a problem. I still tend to just get the AutoZone pipes that are lighter for a bit more money. I've never spent more than $100 doing an AutoZone intake.
I don't know anything about cars but I love them and I'm learning. That was going to be my question was how would this stand up to the temps. Question answered, thank you
@@GeekOfAllness nice bro this reply was exactly what i was searching for haha i ordered the wrong intake cupler (4 inch and needed 4.25") so i was thinking of using a little section of 4" PVC suction hose and expand it as a 4.25" to 4"" coupler
I actually did something similar with the entire exhaust system for my Elantra because I couldn't find any good parts spend about $200 or 250 making a very nice exhaust system including the 110 welder I bought from harbor freight. Learn how to weld learned a lot about exhaust system and it didn't even take me a day to do it all.
around 15 years ago I had a Kia Rio RXV. Slow af, but kinda fun to drive. I noticed that the MAF sensor was fully removable from the rest of the intake ducting. I bought some plastic flex pipe, a couple clamps, and a cone filter. It all bolted in easily with the MAF in the stock location. and worked like a charm. I got that sweet intake brap and it didn't cost me an arm and a leg. I also fabbed up a cold air box out of old tin from furnace ducting and pop cans. Wish I had pics.
@alphabravo007 less to do with airflow and more about temperature reduction. The brilliant engineer neglected to tell everyone that the huge increase in hot air being sucked in by an unboxed filter will actually lower your horsepower. Edit: that temp increase will likely lead to premature failure of engine sudtems. I'm only a retired mechanic, so I don't know what I am talking about. That stock intake pipe they left is going to do very little in the way of actually providing cold air. These guys actually piss me off. They really leave out extremely crucial details and tbh I question all there qualifications as techs and engineer. They say a pile of sus shit
@@randoman81 Yeah I Don't understand the Short ram air I did that when I was 17 and learned right after and always never used tight 90° bends.... I have mine running just under the radiator and above the frame... All abs and wrapping it soon just haven't got to it.... I hate "pros" doing Short ram air with no guard even.... Also gotta trumpet the ends of the abs pipes for better flow... I don't know it doesn't really matter on power gains I'm debating on nitrous or single turbo kit now ahahah
This is awesome, there is actually some really solid tips if you do plan on building your own proper intake, like cutting the pipe with the MAF sensor and using it, which is exactly what I did for my car, I also went to the scrapyard and picked up a spare one so I didn't hack up my good one. All in all, no check engine lights and it sounds awesome!
Just a month ago I picked up a truck with a busted intake. I bought a filter much like the one shown here (much bigger) and the appropriate sized abs pipe. Drove it 700 miles home and still driving it that way to this day.
Been running a sewer pipe intake with a cone filter on my '92 3.1L Firebird for about 5 years now, still holding up very well, even with part of the piping being directly next to the rad, and with daily driving it and all. Even if its still slow, it has a sweet intake sound now, and its getting a lot more air than it was with the weird reverse funnel setup it had from the factory 😳👍
I did this to my car many years ago lol. But I kept the factory pipe up to the box, removed the box and ran pvc from the bumper to inside the engine bay. Then put the filter over my new "ram air" intake (I didn't want it to be capable of vacuum and suck up water). It was a long time before anyone noticed, and I told them, it only cost me 25$. Plus it's sounds cool. 😆
I had to do it last fall when my OEM plastic charge pipe exploded (thanks BMW) while on vacation, lol. Trip to home depot and some parking lot work and it worked great
I did this trick many years ago for a crap car that would never had a custom one made for it. And I was cheap. Worked perfectly, never had an issue with the heat affecting the plastic.
@@cabeallen1277 I agree, never had an issue with heat, but I used an adaptor to the factory intake tube, and the pvc just to replace the filter box. Still ran to the factory location.
Home Depot is cool! I made driving lights from stuff from there and got different colored bulbs and made a fart can exhaust tip from their parts! I didn’t have a lot of money but I had some creativity! This was on an 1990 Acura Integra GS I owned years ago. For the driving lights I used exterior garage light lamp holders and 55 watt sealed beam halogen display lamps. They fit right in the holders and I fashioned brackets to hold the halogen lamps out of coat hanger. Some guys walking by saw them and thought they were PIAA driving lights! Cost me like $20 total back then. In the lawn department for accent lights there are 194 style push bulbs that are different colors. I used the blue ones because I thought they were pretty but unfortunately a few days later I got pulled over by a state trooper because he said blue lights are supposed to only be on police cars in Massachusetts. Oh well… I couldn’t afford a fancy exhaust system so I used to cut off inlet and outlet pipes from rusted exhaust systems as I worked at Acura and used different mufflers like a turbo muffler or a glass pack muffler to try a different exhaust sound but I didn’t have a good exhaust tip. So I decided on using a Home Depot toilet collector pipe that was 4 inches wide that looked perfect. To test to see if the PVC would melt I strapped a piece of scrap PVC on my exhaust system and with the driving I did around Boston it did not melt. But more on that later. I used a couple sections of pipe to funnel it down to fit my exhaust system and then I drilled a hole in the angled part of the toilet collector pipe and put in a amber lightbulb so at night inside the exhaust tip would glow orange likes it’s on fire. Spray painted it chrome. The looks of the people’s faces in my rearview mirror was priceless! Unfortunately on a 2+ hour drive to Maine the tip started to sag so I removed it. Was cool while it lasted. Oh, and when my Honda Odyssey needed a motor mount, head to the chain department!
I did something similar for my '99 Dakota. But to help the PVC withstand more heat, I wrapped it in aluminum heat resistant tape and then finished it off with an exhaust wrap to make it look better and help with heat a bit more. Seems to be holding up great! Even used the same pipe hangers to mount it
I like to go to the junkyard and look for short ram or CAI systems that were left on cars or just hanging out on the ground at the yard. If you find one with a similar angle or even just a couple different ones they'll either clamp directly on or be easily modded. I ran a used Mitsubishi short ram on a 1994 Honda Accord Sedan I used to have until it was wrecked by a lady in a bmw suv. I also cobbled an intake together for a friend with a 2000 Accord using a pile of junkyard intake scraps as well. I just made it a two piece and used a coupler in between with a bracket to hold it solid.
@@foxisretrofitting4556 I once saw somebody take the air filter from a 7.2 I think it was a Duramax and he put it onto his E90 n52 non-turbo f****** engine LOL. Sounded nice tho, tbf
I've had those PVC intakes on for years and years: 95 mustang Gt, other is a Jeep. No problems overheating or melting at all, this applies to the jeep that was overheating as well because of a busted radiator. Just don't rest them on the engine. The Mustang sounds like it's got the turbo spool sound effect. 👍
When you extended the pipe, you lowered the tuning frequency of the intake to a point that’s beyond your hearing capacity. You can use a mathematical equation to tune your intake, using the internal volume of the intake manifold itself, as well as the internal area of the piping, you can lengthen or shorten it as needed to get the right frequency. Similar acoustic mechanics are used when designing a ported subwoofer box or ported loudspeaker enclosure.
@@bleachstain9785 what’s the formula for this? I want to build an intake for my titan xd diesel. Gonna modify the box that is already there and build a scoop for it.
@@Iwannagofast generally speaking, the wider the piping, the lower the pitch will be. The longer it is, the lower it will be tuned as well. So in most cases, simply widening the intake tube will result in a lower pitch. But in your case it sounds like you want to build a snorkel or something for your truck. In that case, due to the length of snorkels, it’ll be low tuned as it is, if I were you I’d take a look into a few videos about horn enclosures and how loading chambers work and potentially apply that concept to the design of your intake.
If you're going to do this for your engine what you want to do is coat the outside in a high temperature insulation, one with an aluminized surface would be best to reflect the heat away from the pipe. The problem with plastics like this is they'll heatsoak pretty easy and ruin your power gains from any cool air, but if you insulate the pipe it can stay cooler as the air travels through it and keeps it somewhat cool, and your IAT cool too. I did up a dryer tube CAI intake extension from my factory airbox in my magnum years ago, and its still part of my build that runs about 12.4 in the qtr (pre-cam, 91 canned tuned).
I used a piece of PVC to adapt a pod filter to my factory intake tube for years with no issues. I suspect that because it was over where the factory airbox used to be that it never got near melting temperature. That engine uses the speed-density paradigm for fuel injection so I didn't have to deal with a MAF.
As a air intake it's quite suitable and likely comparable to aftermarket cold air systems. Considering it's job is to take in cold air it would likely stay well cold enough unless it's mounted near a unshielded exhaust manifold. If you are still worried about heat there are other affordable options in the HVAC section.
We used 3 inch PVC pipe to re-locate the MAF and cone air filter out of the engine bay. The MAF and air filter now sit in front of the radiator. PVC was used to run from the old MAF location at the air manifold intake, down behind the radiator fan, around the passenger side of the radiator, and in front of the radiator. We've also added a "box" around the back of the filter to direct more cold air into the filter.
This idea sounds pretty genius! I was just thinking, couldn't you have one line of cold air coming from the PVC pipe and still keep the factory air box to add even more
I built a similar intake for my old '01 Subaru Outback after the stock intake piping started coming apart. Built it about 5 years ago and it's still on the Outback today. I routed the intake piping into the passenger side fender above the wheel well, so it's not pulling any air from the engine bay at all. Those '01 Outback didn't use a MAF sensor back then, so.. no worries with that.
I had a 1993 Cavalier Z24 and I did this exact intake on it. Same Autozone filter. It made the 3.1 sound much better. It actually gave a noticeable power increase as well. I was quite surprised with it.
If you got rid of the bend, it would've probably added power. Bends decrease the relative air velocity, which decreases total intake capacity, even with same diameter housings.
I made a very homemade turbo kit for my 2002 Subaru 2.5RS with a bunch of random parts back in college, but forgot about the charge pipe. It was 6pm on a Sunday and had to drive and hour back to my college town to be at class on Monday. I used PVC pipe from the hardware store for charge pipe. I was only running 6psi so it worked really well. I was going to fix it but people kept wanting to see it and I wondered how long it would last. Was on the car for over two years as and held up great.
With some paint i dont think most people would notice it’s a DIY and i doubt it makes a huge difference in power positively or negatively so hey if you like how this sounds and don’t wanna spend $300+ on a CAI then maybe go for it :)
I did this once in high school...used 90 degree adjustable duct tubing (where you spin it around and make anywhere from 0-90 degree) sealed it up with aluminum duct tape and covered it with underbody spray (the spray can). worked very well. Though I would throw a code any time the outside air temp was under freezeing temps (code was P0128) Summer time it ran a bit hot in traffic. but cooled down within seconds once I got moving above 20mph
thanks for the inspiration. my 06 ford focus has a "lifetime" air filter that, after 175k miles and the abuse weve put it thru, needs replacement. its a whole kerfuddle. im hoping to install a setup exactly like what you have in this video. love donut stuff
money pit and DIY or NOT are some of our best shows. We really enjoy the experimenting and thriving (or not) at the end and doing stuff in an economical way. Thats our everyday life on bikes and cars, that's why we really enjoy these show as well as the other informative in a humoristic way shows of the channel.
In my younger days a ran one of these in a 94 civic for several years. Picked up a couple mpg and loved the sound. No issues with it melting. Just don't let it sit on the radiator and you'll be fine.
I have used PVC cold air intakes for years with no signs of degradation and no problems at all. I think if the engine compartment gets hot enough to melt PVC or ABS pipe, the intake is probably going to be the least of your concerns.
I just realized watching this that I didnt start watching donut until my Autotech teacher started playing your videos in class to help teach us things and now ive been obsessed ever since lol
i did it with a 1999 jeep grand cherokee wj....it was totally worth it and i noticed the added power and improved gas mileage. i also had the cold ram affect going straight in through the grill slots. i painted it with heat resistant paint and used dollar store socks for simple air filters. great air flow. i was shocked, it was cool project/experience
I've used cobbled together intakes for years. Never had ABS melt under my hood. My car right now has black duct tape from where I sawed off my intake resonators, still hasn't melted either, and it's been over a month
Used PVC and a 3 inch rubber hose coupler to do the "Gotts mod" on an old Ford I had. Also did the intake silencer delete, so I had a fair amount of improved airflow up top. Talk about a good sounding truck 🥵
You could put heat insulation around the tube. Dual benefit being, tubing protected from heat on the outside and air protected from heat on the inside. Expensive alloy one's would benefit also because aluminium is an amazing heat conductor. LOVE YOU GUYS'S WORK!!!!!!!!!
I feel like you needed to talk about the downsides to this. The reason intakes are so much money is because they can guarantee nothing goes into the engine that shouldn't be there. Because along with it melting, you could be letting dirt into your engine (the entre point of a intake/ air filter)
@@michaelfried3123 Please explain to me how an intake that is substantially less restrictive and draws air from the same area as the stock intake of the car makes less power?
@@jeffhunt5964 it does not block as much heat from the engine as a stock intake, but that does not mean it will make less power either. if you build a small box thing like some aftermarket intakes have that blocks heat from the back and bottom of the filter it would be much better.
@@jeffhunt5964 the factory intake on this definitely flows better and I would bet performs better in every objective way compared to this intake. Which means more power could be made with the stock one.
its funny you mention "it'll get you home". Because my 98 C230 broke down on some back road in the woods and it just so happened to be the OEM rubber pipe from the maf to the engine melted. I had some old copper elbows and rubber tubing I used as an insert to fit it, It worked better than the OEM.
I'm soooo glad you added the disclaimer about not making more power. Anyone who thinks this sort of thing adds power simply doesn't know how cars work.
Yeah, I did this to my jeep liberty. It was great. Even made a fiberglass box to shield it from the bay heat, and wrapped the ABS in Aluminum tape so nobody knew I was rocking shitter pipe. Didnt have to downsize the pipe at all
I made an intake for my old Grand Prix because the previous owner had left the stock air box, but just stuck a pod filter directly onto the throttlebody, and it looked like crap. I made a heat shield box out of sheet metal meant for patching HVAC ducting, lined it with aluminized bubble wrap stuff as well. Version 1 used some universal flexibility intake tubing i bought online, and I just used a 4" PVC connector to attach the filter to the tube. For Gen 2 I upgraded to the lager throttlebody from a Northstar V8. Got it, the external MAF, as well as the factory intake tube from the junk yard Cadilac for like $60 iirc. Throttle body -> intake tube -> MAF, stuck one side of the MAF through the hole in the heat shield, and attached the pod filter directly to the MAF. It actually ended up looking pretty professional, and still a fraction of what any aftermarket intake would have cost
I got my S&B intake for like $300 for my truck, not sure how much effect it actually has on performance, but throttle response feels better and for whatever reason it seems like I feel the engine more in the accelerator pedal. Cold air intake and exhaust are the two best mods I’ve ever paid for.
I would love to see you guys build a crown Victoria. You can make fair power, enough for fun from the stock 4.6 and it’s a great budget car. Great way to show how far weight loss and tires, suspension etc. can go without much of a boost in power. Huge fan of vics and of course your channel as always!
I did the poop-pipe intake for an ls1 about 15 years ago. Great noise but probably negative power outcome. The thing started warping within a few days but it was still usable for a long time, probably a few months before I replaced it with a purpose built one. Also, where I am at least (NSW, Australia) it's illegal to have a pod-filter exposed in the engine bay.
The cold air intake on my old Impreza Wagon was made out of a piece of flexible plastic gutter drain pipe. It still went into the factory airbox by the firewall so I didn't even have to add a cone filter on the other end, I just jammed it into the fender. Idk about performance gains but it made it sound alot better anyways.
tbh i did a diy intake for me e34 using pcv pipes, the filter box has a cone shaped pipe which bugged the hell out of me, I cut it, cleaned the ut and installed a little bigger PVC pipe which is the same length using epoxy. i cleaned everything up using those small "grinders" then painted the whole thing heat resistant black (used for room heaters) and installed it. till now almost everyone who looked at my engine bay thought it was factory like that. i never been happier
I actually did this with a bunch of metal tubing on a 2004 v6 mustang. It made it sound not so stupid and increased horsepower by about 5-10 i'd say. Gas mileage also went up about 1 mpg. Not a bad creation for a bunch of scrap, sadly a month later the oil pan blew open and I got a case of the rod knock :( Your episodes are why I love Donut! How about an episode on getting rid of drone from Cold Air Intakes?
I did that on my mazda 6 2.5 and 3,5Inch pipes and K&N filter. I did tune it to 197HP with it lol!! I did a cold air intake setup outside the engine bay.
You guys should do DIY down force. Maybe make a fiberglass splitter and explain the science behind splitters and air dams.
100% agree! That would be a good one!
On Top Gear they made a plywood splitter and it worked until it lit on fire, so a fibreglass one is definititely better.
Agreed! Donut take notes!
They did the second part on science garage.
You should do a DIY car series where every single part of the car is completely handmade like this. So you have DIY intake, body kit, aero, And just really lean into the r/shitty_car_mods kind of build. Maybe not a series, but it would be really funny to see a donut shitty car
The 4wd community commonly uses pvc pipe for an improvised snorkel intake. Wayyyyy cheaper and does just a good when built right
With it being outside the engine bay, it makes sense.
The funny thing is Home Depot literally sells intake kits online, though their automotive section in stores is very interesting to say the least
@@yeanah2571 I mean, most all stock intakes are already a pvc plastic, so replacing it with a heavier walled plastic to relocate the intake doesn't seem unreasonable really....especially if you went to Princess Auto and grabbed some fibre glass wrap for another 20 dollars.
That makes plenty of sense since most of the pipe is located outside and not right next to the hot engine.
Literally haha 😄 works great 👍
That is honestly the cleanest looking DIY intake I've ever seen, it's also cut and fastened together properly. Good job guys.
Spray it with chrome paint and bling bling. Or wrap it with muffler tape like they do on headers.
Zach has the best combination of friendly demeanor and genuine smarts. I love to watch him.
How very gay of you :)
@@JimmyJones666 - I'll take that as a compliment.
@@pacificostudios take it which ever way makes you happy mate :)
ye. and he doesn't scream at you like the fat one does.
@@doinstuffwiththings That could either be Nolan or James. I think you James "Mo Powah, Baby" Pumphrey.
I heard that because of how much they were revving the engine, and how high California gas prices are, this is the most expensive video Donut has made to date
Gas prices. Waaaa waaaaa!!. Baby
Spot on. I know they were at least a little tearful when they saw the cost of this episode 😂
California should just be it's own country
They're all moving to Texas with their retarded ideologies here 🙄
Just look at Austin
My god some people shouldn't even be allowed to live life
TSEELIG1
WTF DO YOU DRIVE? A PRIUS!!! Waaa Waaa Waaa
Hahahaha
@@dirtyharry5878 a 5.3 swapped 71 pontiac. It gets like 10mpg. I just don't expect gas to stay the same price forever.
The nicknames for the pipes were brilliant.
My wife heard anal aquaduct and couldn't get that out of her head.
Sorry for hacking and I'm late to comment. I'm doing this more than decade. So if you want to replace Air filter too ? Because you will want to. Why because there is better and cheaper version. Look for large displacement diesel engine air filters like 1993 - 2006 hyundai h-100. Most of them similar to this and much cheaper.
I will be using the name crap conduit from now on 😌
I ended up thinking of turd tunnel.
Anal aqueduct was my favorite.
I love how Donut always finds ways to make new content. This is great.
There’s UA-cam thots now they really out here trying
their channel views are down, its slowly dying
@@azura3277 i feel like theyve ran out of stuff to make content out of after HiLow. The only thing i watch now is WheelHouse
@@ROCKETMANN56 if im being honest they expanded into other context too quickly, they had the bread and butter which was up to speed(fkn amazing series), they had nolans show(forgot the name lol), their version of build biology, and high low. all were popular, then they went into territory that is pretty much saturated in terms of content and what was already available, it became the same generic stuff you could find on hoovies, tavarish, cleetus, adam lz etc, who arent easy to compete with, donut is slowly dying hence why nearly every video has begging for likes subs, notifications etc etc, theres so much automotive stuff to talk about for up to speed yet they killed it.
@@azura3277 and Bumper2Bumper just turned into Science Garage. I wish theyd go back into showcasing cars instead of explaining how car stuff work
I could also see this being a good way to template a custom air intake for cars that don't have off the shelf kits. Figure out all your cuts and angles in plastic and then go order the aluminum you actually need rather than guessing with more expensive materials.
Great idea
My uncle did just that for a amateur race car he was building about 15 years ago. He said it saved him a lot of time and effort.
That's exactly what this whole video is about lol. Silly sally.
At the end of the day it would probably cost about the same as an after market intake.
@@IntelligentlyStupid it is for a custom car or a car without a intake you can buy off the shelf. Its a good way to start fabricating
As someone who has experience with plumbing, this is dumb.
And I can't even put into words how much I love it.
Question: this but with Drying plumbing 🤔
@@GrockleTD Drying? You mean dryer vent tube? Could turn out interesting.
@@ethanmeatzie6179 Yeah, I don't know about using the flexible stuff though, depending on how much suction is created by the intake
@@GrockleTDjust use system 636 pvc, or cpvc if you have heat prone engine bay. Its what has replaces metal venting for modern gas appliances and has a higher heat rating, plus is designed for flue gas/temperatures. Going to cost a bit more than abs, but would be under the 200$ cost of a basic "cold" air intake kit
@GrockleTD Been there and done that in my late teens wanting a "cold air intake" for an ef sedan that belonged to my dad but somehow only I drove, all the while having zero budget, cheap spectre cone filter from autozone with employee discount and extra dryer hose left over from servicing the dryer. It looked good for all of about 10 seconds before start up and revving to just off idle, way too much vacuum, literally imploded a hole right throw that flimsy foil material. The heavier thin gauge sheet metal dryer piping may possibly be a different story though, who knows till you try and prove or disprove a potentially dumb idea but maybe brilliant. Just maybe.
I'm driving my car with that type of intake for around 5 years and I had no issues so far :)
I made it suck cold air from the lower part of the bumper and it works really good :)
thats how these " cold air" intakes should be designed most of the time. i just bought one that reaches the bumper to get actual cold air
It’s almost like environmental air cools this piece lol
I’m glad ingenuity is living in the wild!
@@modelotime3608 it's great until you suck up a puddle, lol
What kinda car an what pipe did you use?
@@xxmajin_drewxx You're gonna laugh, but I used gutters pipe 80mm. 🤣
The car is a BMW E39 535i.
Because of how thermodynamics work (heat transfer) it is entirely fine to use this in this application. While the surrounding temperature might exceed the temperature rating of the ABS pipe. The cold air moving through it at a high rate of speed will cool it down faster than the heat from the nearby motor will heat it up. It comes down to the efficiency of heat transfer of convection heat transfer (the heat coming off of the engine) vs the efficiency of advection (the heat transfer from the pipe to the air moving through it) advection transfers heat energy at a much higher rate than convection. It the same reason why air fryers work faster than convection ovens. It's the constant movement of air.
But what about when the car is parked after a hot ride, engine compartment soaking in its heat? Would you need a turbo-timer also hooked up to a fan, just to cool down the engine compartment, before shutting off, just to protect PVC?
I can tell you from experience, all the science in the world wont save a poop pipe from the heat in an engine bay. Temps while driving aren't the problem, it's afterwards that the temps rise.
Wonder if you could more safely make them heat resistant with either heat wrap or reflective gold or Chrome piping tape for insulating during winter
Heat wrap traps the heat inside of whatever you wrap. Heat wrap would be done to headers/exhaust manifold as it traps heat. They’d want reflective gold or a heat shield.
They're resistant enough and cheap enough that they don't need to be permanent. Just replace it whenever you replace the air filter. Once a year or so.
Isn't most OEM intake piping abs plastic? People here have been using PVC piping as intakes and I've never seen them melt or anything from the abuse.
@@Flako92
Yes and no. PVC is naturally very hard, brittle and hard to mold, so they normally have substances called "plastifiers" to make them, well, plastic. Different proportions of different plastifiers can make two objects made of the same base polymer have completely different characteristics.
That said, if they could, they should go for pipes made for hot water, which can withstand temps near boiling point.
Maybe go the 3D printed way, i often print parts in polycarbonates or BASF, which resists up to 120c and 150c respectively.
Missed opportunity to not dyno before and after. Most intakes make next-to-no power, but it still would have been fun to see.
this one would kill power...its a hot air intake, just dumb.
Yeah, if they would have dyno it, this would have been the perfect episode. Regardless if it was better or worse we want numbers!
@@michaelfried3123 i just left a comment about this lol, super small radius 90 degree bend + air turbulence like crazy + worse than factory x10
Mighty car mods did this a while ago. The best thing that comes out of this is the sound.
Wouldn't have mattered, *hot* air intakes have no effect on n/a cars. Makes a difference only if you have a turbo.
A long time ago I build a Toyota Tercel. It was my first (road legal) car as a teen. I gutted the hell out of it. 1 seat, no interior, all lexan glass aside from the windshield. It was so light I could pick it up and move it over into another parking spot. Lol. I made a cold air intake with hardware store pipes that took air from a vent in a fender. I did end up wrapping it in aluminum tape to protect from heat near the engine but I never had an issue with it. It was a ton of fun. It had a 1.5L and 5sp. I did a whole lot of porting and old school hot rodder tricks and before it blew up on the bottom end I got it on a dyno. It made a whopping 118 whp. Much better than the stock 80hp.
I was hoping you'd compare a DIY intake to a purchased one on a dyno. Good points though regarding material limits.
The change when just doing an intake is within their margin of error. The companies that claim big gains, actually walk the claims back in the tests' fine print.
K&N even got reprimanded by the Can. Gov for their +30C initial testing, and then 21c (w/ blower fans) when testing their filter.
The change when just doing an intake is within their margin of error. The companies that claim big gains, actually walk the claims back in the tests' fine print.
K&N even got reprimanded by the Can. Gov for their +30C initial testing, and then 21c (w/ blower fans) when testing their filter.
The change when just doing an intake is within their margin of error. The companies that claim big gains, actually walk the claims back in the tests' fine print.
K&N even got reprimanded by the Can. Gov for their +30C initial testing, and then 21c (w/ blower fans) when testing their filter.
The change when just doing an intake is within their margin of error. The companies that claim big gains, actually walk the claims back in the tests' fine print.
K&N even got reprimanded by the Can. Gov for their +30C initial testing, and then 21c (w/ blower fans) when testing their filter.
The change when just doing an intake is within their margin of error. The companies that claim big gains, actually walk the claims back in the tests' fine print.
K&N even got reprimanded by the Can. Gov for their +30C initial testing, and then 21c (w/ blower fans) when testing their filter.
You would be surprised how many "professional purpose built" parts are really just stuff they found at the hardware store.
My favorite example are the fuel lines on older military aircraft are often literally just garden hoses.
dont reinvent the wheel if you can avoid it
Ahem, that's not just any garden hose, it's a $5000 "military-grade" garden hose.
@@MobiAussie yea "mil-spec" adds a lot to the tag, honestly it should because mil spec means every single one of those is the exact same, the j-adapters we use in avionics if you buy the exact same thing civilian side that isn't mill spec it's like 1 in 5 won't work it will be to big or to small for the application. so the military paying really high prices is a combination of "it's a government project so they'll pay 10k even if it only cost us 1k" and it actually costs more because "mil-spec" requires all of the pieces to be the exact same dimensions so you can swap out any 1 garden hose fuel line with any other garden hose fuel line.
It's little things like that that i missed most going from the army to civilian work lol.
@@michag4337 Mil-spec also comes with a paper trail for every single part of the process, from the sourcing and smelting of the material to every hand that touched it along the way, at least thats the case in the aviation industry.
@@MobiAussie just remember, "military-grade"translates to "lowest bidder"
I built a custom 4" intake out of aluminum piping i bought online and it cost me under $100. I even got a proper maf bung welded to the pipe as well
*cost me
wtf happened here
Did the same for my rsx type s.
I was going to say the same thing this concept would be perfect with metal pipe
@@sapperROSS I have an 06 I'm thinking about getting an injen SRI for, do you have any pics? I might try my luck
I've definitely made an intake out of pvc pipe. I wasn't spending almost $300 for an aluminum tube! It worked perfectly! I ran it for well over a year of daily driving and sitting in traffic... It didn't melt! Save yourself some money (or spend it elsewhere) and make your own!
It should be fine. It's literally air cooled. The stuff in your engine bay hitting 200° is stuff not getting cooled by airflow, or poor airflow.
I have done this also on my S10 back in 2000 lol. Good ole days.
Did this awhile back for fun. Got around the heat issue by insulating the piping with reflective heat tape. You want the air going in to remain cool, so it doesn't hurt to add it. Besides, the PVC seems to be a pretty sweet insulator as far as incoming air goes. Fun stuff guys. I might have to do this again soon on my current project to see how much better it performs and sounds over the chopped stock intake.
hey dude hope you ok did you do it?
have you done it yet?
I did this years ago on my RX7 as a turbo inlet pipe. It held up no issue, and was awesome to be able to try a 3 inch vs 4 inch and see actual gains.
Did the same on my 86 RX7, bought the MAF adapter, PVC piping, Cone filter, cut a hole with a hole saw, ran it into the front bumper. Worked awesome
As someone who has had great success using 3D printed parts in the engine bay, this should actually survive pretty well. ABS is pretty temperature resistant and would be a great "I just need something that nobody makes" intake.
if ur INTAKE, flowing air through it, is melting ABS you probably need an intercooler
I've melted ABS when I hooked it straight up to the turbo inlet, but a silicone coupler to give it a couple inches worked fine for low (7 psi) boost. As long as the pipe isn't touching the manifold or radiator, I don't think it would be a problem.
I still tend to just get the AutoZone pipes that are lighter for a bit more money. I've never spent more than $100 doing an AutoZone intake.
I don't know anything about cars but I love them and I'm learning. That was going to be my question was how would this stand up to the temps. Question answered, thank you
@@GeekOfAllness nice bro this reply was exactly what i was searching for haha i ordered the wrong intake cupler (4 inch and needed 4.25") so i was thinking of using a little section of 4" PVC suction hose and expand it as a 4.25" to 4"" coupler
I actually did something similar with the entire exhaust system for my Elantra because I couldn't find any good parts spend about $200 or 250 making a very nice exhaust system including the 110 welder I bought from harbor freight. Learn how to weld learned a lot about exhaust system and it didn't even take me a day to do it all.
Feels good man
Damn I was hoping you were about to say you built a pvc exhaust
@@MITCHXO Mhmm~ crispy plastic.
around 15 years ago I had a Kia Rio RXV. Slow af, but kinda fun to drive. I noticed that the MAF sensor was fully removable from the rest of the intake ducting. I bought some plastic flex pipe, a couple clamps, and a cone filter. It all bolted in easily with the MAF in the stock location. and worked like a charm. I got that sweet intake brap and it didn't cost me an arm and a leg. I also fabbed up a cold air box out of old tin from furnace ducting and pop cans. Wish I had pics.
Does putting the intake in a box help with airflow?
Also the bots in here are unbearable.
@alphabravo007 less to do with airflow and more about temperature reduction. The brilliant engineer neglected to tell everyone that the huge increase in hot air being sucked in by an unboxed filter will actually lower your horsepower. Edit: that temp increase will likely lead to premature failure of engine sudtems. I'm only a retired mechanic, so I don't know what I am talking about. That stock intake pipe they left is going to do very little in the way of actually providing cold air. These guys actually piss me off. They really leave out extremely crucial details and tbh I question all there qualifications as techs and engineer. They say a pile of sus shit
@@Just_Joshing024 and yeah, the bots are ridiculous
@@randoman81 Yeah I Don't understand the Short ram air I did that when I was 17 and learned right after and always never used tight 90° bends.... I have mine running just under the radiator and above the frame... All abs and wrapping it soon just haven't got to it.... I hate "pros" doing Short ram air with no guard even.... Also gotta trumpet the ends of the abs pipes for better flow... I don't know it doesn't really matter on power gains I'm debating on nitrous or single turbo kit now ahahah
@@Just_Joshing024 yes the bots are insane on this channel
This is awesome, there is actually some really solid tips if you do plan on building your own proper intake, like cutting the pipe with the MAF sensor and using it, which is exactly what I did for my car, I also went to the scrapyard and picked up a spare one so I didn't hack up my good one. All in all, no check engine lights and it sounds awesome!
Just a month ago I picked up a truck with a busted intake.
I bought a filter much like the one shown here (much bigger) and the appropriate sized abs pipe.
Drove it 700 miles home and still driving it that way to this day.
Totally did this in my younger years. Loudest intake I'd ever heard. I was thrilled 😅
Been running a sewer pipe intake with a cone filter on my '92 3.1L Firebird for about 5 years now, still holding up very well, even with part of the piping being directly next to the rad, and with daily driving it and all. Even if its still slow, it has a sweet intake sound now, and its getting a lot more air than it was with the weird reverse funnel setup it had from the factory 😳👍
I did this to my car many years ago lol. But I kept the factory pipe up to the box, removed the box and ran pvc from the bumper to inside the engine bay. Then put the filter over my new "ram air" intake (I didn't want it to be capable of vacuum and suck up water). It was a long time before anyone noticed, and I told them, it only cost me 25$. Plus it's sounds cool. 😆
I had to do it last fall when my OEM plastic charge pipe exploded (thanks BMW) while on vacation, lol. Trip to home depot and some parking lot work and it worked great
I did this trick many years ago for a crap car that would never had a custom one made for it. And I was cheap. Worked perfectly, never had an issue with the heat affecting the plastic.
@@cabeallen1277 I agree, never had an issue with heat, but I used an adaptor to the factory intake tube, and the pvc just to replace the filter box. Still ran to the factory location.
Home Depot is cool! I made driving lights from stuff from there and got different colored bulbs and made a fart can exhaust tip from their parts! I didn’t have a lot of money but I had some creativity! This was on an 1990 Acura Integra GS I owned years ago.
For the driving lights I used exterior garage light lamp holders and 55 watt sealed beam halogen display lamps. They fit right in the holders and I fashioned brackets to hold the halogen lamps out of coat hanger. Some guys walking by saw them and thought they were PIAA driving lights! Cost me like $20 total back then.
In the lawn department for accent lights there are 194 style push bulbs that are different colors. I used the blue ones because I thought they were pretty but unfortunately a few days later I got pulled over by a state trooper because he said blue lights are supposed to only be on police cars in Massachusetts. Oh well…
I couldn’t afford a fancy exhaust system so I used to cut off inlet and outlet pipes from rusted exhaust systems as I worked at Acura and used different mufflers like a turbo muffler or a glass pack muffler to try a different exhaust sound but I didn’t have a good exhaust tip. So I decided on using a Home Depot toilet collector pipe that was 4 inches wide that looked perfect. To test to see if the PVC would melt I strapped a piece of scrap PVC on my exhaust system and with the driving I did around Boston it did not melt. But more on that later. I used a couple sections of pipe to funnel it down to fit my exhaust system and then I drilled a hole in the angled part of the toilet collector pipe and put in a amber lightbulb so at night inside the exhaust tip would glow orange likes it’s on fire. Spray painted it chrome. The looks of the people’s faces in my rearview mirror was priceless! Unfortunately on a 2+ hour drive to Maine the tip started to sag so I removed it. Was cool while it lasted.
Oh, and when my Honda Odyssey needed a motor mount, head to the chain department!
I did something similar for my '99 Dakota. But to help the PVC withstand more heat, I wrapped it in aluminum heat resistant tape and then finished it off with an exhaust wrap to make it look better and help with heat a bit more. Seems to be holding up great! Even used the same pipe hangers to mount it
Nice! I’m working on a 99 Dakota at the moment and was looking to make my own custom intake pipe
protip: look at the cold air intakes offered for your car, then DIY one to the same shape.
I like to go to the junkyard and look for short ram or CAI systems that were left on cars or just hanging out on the ground at the yard. If you find one with a similar angle or even just a couple different ones they'll either clamp directly on or be easily modded. I ran a used Mitsubishi short ram on a 1994 Honda Accord Sedan I used to have until it was wrecked by a lady in a bmw suv. I also cobbled an intake together for a friend with a 2000 Accord using a pile of junkyard intake scraps as well. I just made it a two piece and used a coupler in between with a bracket to hold it solid.
@@foxisretrofitting4556 I once saw somebody take the air filter from a 7.2 I think it was a Duramax and he put it onto his E90 n52 non-turbo f****** engine LOL. Sounded nice tho, tbf
I've had those PVC intakes on for years and years: 95 mustang Gt, other is a Jeep. No problems overheating or melting at all, this applies to the jeep that was overheating as well because of a busted radiator. Just don't rest them on the engine.
The Mustang sounds like it's got the turbo spool sound effect. 👍
We get it, you thought of it first champ.
@@JimmyJones666 Really? this dude was just 'sharing' we don't need negative vibes in this community.
@@andyfitz1992 ok champ lol
When you extended the pipe, you lowered the tuning frequency of the intake to a point that’s beyond your hearing capacity. You can use a mathematical equation to tune your intake, using the internal volume of the intake manifold itself, as well as the internal area of the piping, you can lengthen or shorten it as needed to get the right frequency.
Similar acoustic mechanics are used when designing a ported subwoofer box or ported loudspeaker enclosure.
Nerd
@@LukBacca lol, the anime kid called me a nerd. Cognitive dissonance? Pot calling the kettle black much?
@@bleachstain9785 what’s the formula for this? I want to build an intake for my titan xd diesel. Gonna modify the box that is already there and build a scoop for it.
@@Iwannagofast generally speaking, the wider the piping, the lower the pitch will be. The longer it is, the lower it will be tuned as well. So in most cases, simply widening the intake tube will result in a lower pitch. But in your case it sounds like you want to build a snorkel or something for your truck. In that case, due to the length of snorkels, it’ll be low tuned as it is, if I were you I’d take a look into a few videos about horn enclosures and how loading chambers work and potentially apply that concept to the design of your intake.
@@Iwannagofast yo I have a titan xd, how’d this go???
If you're going to do this for your engine what you want to do is coat the outside in a high temperature insulation, one with an aluminized surface would be best to reflect the heat away from the pipe. The problem with plastics like this is they'll heatsoak pretty easy and ruin your power gains from any cool air, but if you insulate the pipe it can stay cooler as the air travels through it and keeps it somewhat cool, and your IAT cool too.
I did up a dryer tube CAI intake extension from my factory airbox in my magnum years ago, and its still part of my build that runs about 12.4 in the qtr (pre-cam, 91 canned tuned).
As a Home Depot employee I approve this message 👍
Cries in Lowes noises.
Proof Home Depot employees have NO idea what they're talking about
@@Nate-bd8fg If you can read a resume you are hired lol
I used a piece of PVC to adapt a pod filter to my factory intake tube for years with no issues. I suspect that because it was over where the factory airbox used to be that it never got near melting temperature. That engine uses the speed-density paradigm for fuel injection so I didn't have to deal with a MAF.
As a air intake it's quite suitable and likely comparable to aftermarket cold air systems.
Considering it's job is to take in cold air it would likely stay well cold enough unless it's mounted near a unshielded exhaust manifold.
If you are still worried about heat there are other affordable options in the HVAC section.
As someone who works in a Home Depot RDC. I appreciate you’re ingenuity with their products
We used 3 inch PVC pipe to re-locate the MAF and cone air filter out of the engine bay. The MAF and air filter now sit in front of the radiator. PVC was used to run from the old MAF location at the air manifold intake, down behind the radiator fan, around the passenger side of the radiator, and in front of the radiator. We've also added a "box" around the back of the filter to direct more cold air into the filter.
This idea sounds pretty genius! I was just thinking, couldn't you have one line of cold air coming from the PVC pipe and still keep the factory air box to add even more
Have you had any issues with water ingestion?
I built a similar intake for my old '01 Subaru Outback after the stock intake piping started coming apart. Built it about 5 years ago and it's still on the Outback today. I routed the intake piping into the passenger side fender above the wheel well, so it's not pulling any air from the engine bay at all. Those '01 Outback didn't use a MAF sensor back then, so.. no worries with that.
Lol, you can see it in Zach's eyes, he didn't wanna ruin that nice TRD intake 😂
Great way to mock-up for a real intake. Also, you can rap it with a heat shield. Did this for a friend as an experiment. Customer pyrite.
Does it have to be rap or can I write a country song, too?
I'd really like to see a before and after dyno run... well done, looks great! Sounds badass!!!
I made a pvc intake like that a year ago for my buddy's 2003 nissan maxima. It sounds amazing and improved mid the high rpm power.
I had a 1993 Cavalier Z24 and I did this exact intake on it. Same Autozone filter. It made the 3.1 sound much better. It actually gave a noticeable power increase as well. I was quite surprised with it.
Did u do a tune as well ?
You could always heat wrap it to give more protection from the heat, and it will look cooler. I think I'm going to try this.🤙
hey, did you?
I've been making and using these reliably for years. Good job. I think you overspent on the pipe though. 👍
If you got rid of the bend, it would've probably added power.
Bends decrease the relative air velocity, which decreases total intake capacity, even with same diameter housings.
Yeah, that k factor tho. That elbow has me cringing
Agreed I do HVAC and it’s the same with furnace exhaust pipes a swooping 90 instead of a hard 90 would also increase airflow a bit
dont front on 45• angles..
Intakes don’t do much for this car anyways than noise lol
If you wanted to keep it at a sharp 90 you could also put reducers/bushing on each end and use a larger size elbow
I made a very homemade turbo kit for my 2002 Subaru 2.5RS with a bunch of random parts back in college, but forgot about the charge pipe. It was 6pm on a Sunday and had to drive and hour back to my college town to be at class on Monday. I used PVC pipe from the hardware store for charge pipe. I was only running 6psi so it worked really well. I was going to fix it but people kept wanting to see it and I wondered how long it would last. Was on the car for over two years as and held up great.
I am happy to see Joey is still around, he's really nice and he didn't deserve the heat he got when he had a show. Hopefully we get to see him more.
With some paint i dont think most people would notice it’s a DIY and i doubt it makes a huge difference in power positively or negatively so hey if you like how this sounds and don’t wanna spend $300+ on a CAI then maybe go for it :)
Would of loved to see this on a dyno vs other after market ones ,I've done this ALOT for snorkels on my jeeps
Great video keep up the good work
I did this once in high school...used 90 degree adjustable duct tubing (where you spin it around and make anywhere from 0-90 degree) sealed it up with aluminum duct tape and covered it with underbody spray (the spray can). worked very well. Though I would throw a code any time the outside air temp was under freezeing temps (code was P0128) Summer time it ran a bit hot in traffic. but cooled down within seconds once I got moving above 20mph
Same here. Those were the days. I had a CRX SI.
thanks for the inspiration. my 06 ford focus has a "lifetime" air filter that, after 175k miles and the abuse weve put it thru, needs replacement. its a whole kerfuddle. im hoping to install a setup exactly like what you have in this video. love donut stuff
You could use something like the aluminum air-duct tubing and see how that performs.
"Slave lake" a 7.3 IDI F350 has an aluminum dryer vent hose as an intake on Zipties and bias plys channel.
Love Zach content
You can always wrap the intake with aluminium tape!
money pit and DIY or NOT are some of our best shows. We really enjoy the experimenting and thriving (or not) at the end and doing stuff in an economical way. Thats our everyday life on bikes and cars, that's why we really enjoy these show as well as the other informative in a humoristic way shows of the channel.
In my younger days a ran one of these in a 94 civic for several years. Picked up a couple mpg and loved the sound. No issues with it melting. Just don't let it sit on the radiator and you'll be fine.
I have used PVC cold air intakes for years with no signs of degradation and no problems at all. I think if the engine compartment gets hot enough to melt PVC or ABS pipe, the intake is probably going to be the least of your concerns.
I really hate my intakes looks. I bet money I can make one out of PVC that would look amazing compared to my $300 intake.
@@devisissy1 you wont regret it, great afternoon project
That giant pipe hit at the very beginning had me giggling so hard 😂
Would love to see y’all do a series, using a 3d printer to make custom parts
I just realized watching this that I didnt start watching donut until my Autotech teacher started playing your videos in class to help teach us things and now ive been obsessed ever since lol
i did it with a 1999 jeep grand cherokee wj....it was totally worth it and i noticed the added power and improved gas mileage. i also had the cold ram affect going straight in through the grill slots. i painted it with heat resistant paint and used dollar store socks for simple air filters. great air flow. i was shocked, it was cool project/experience
I've used cobbled together intakes for years. Never had ABS melt under my hood. My car right now has black duct tape from where I sawed off my intake resonators, still hasn't melted either, and it's been over a month
Question- what about turbocharged cars. Because they can be finicky without a tune?
Depends on the car, and if they use a maf or map sensor. My turbo car uses a map sensor, and an aftermarket intake did not cause any issues.
Get a high flow drop in
@@MadSnizzik I see you like progressive weight reduction on your compressor fins.
My intake and snorkel are made from PVC piping on my ol’ 1990 Honda quad. Straight pipe exhaust made from stainless steel sink plumbing pipe too 😁
Used PVC and a 3 inch rubber hose coupler to do the "Gotts mod" on an old Ford I had. Also did the intake silencer delete, so I had a fair amount of improved airflow up top. Talk about a good sounding truck 🥵
If heat is a concern, just use hot water pipe and paint it with a heat resistant paint (rustoleum for high heat spray paint)
It doesn't work like that
How bout making an intake using donuts?
Buy a cheap rwd car, weld the rear diff and test how long can u drift it with stock parts
I vote Crown Vic
@@yeanah2571 nah, a GS3 for sure
@@knightfall7534 compromise, GS400. V8 power and the good looks
@@yeanah2571 lol if you can find one for cheap for sure. I just know they aren’t expensive and alot of ppl like sliding em.
@@knightfall7534 after our awesome suggestions, I'm really curious as to what OP was thinking. Not a lot of cheap RWD cars left
You could put heat insulation around the tube. Dual benefit being, tubing protected from heat on the outside and air protected from heat on the inside. Expensive alloy one's would benefit also because aluminium is an amazing heat conductor. LOVE YOU GUYS'S WORK!!!!!!!!!
The razorblades just hanging out on Zach's hand @ 4:12 is great
Heard Zack gives shout outs for commenting
I feel like you needed to talk about the downsides to this. The reason intakes are so much money is because they can guarantee nothing goes into the engine that shouldn't be there. Because along with it melting, you could be letting dirt into your engine (the entre point of a intake/ air filter)
way more down than upside....you get what you pay for, this is essentially a hot air intake killing power...
@@michaelfried3123 Please explain to me how an intake that is substantially less restrictive and draws air from the same area as the stock intake of the car makes less power?
@@jeffhunt5964 it does not block as much heat from the engine as a stock intake, but that does not mean it will make less power either. if you build a small box thing like some aftermarket intakes have that blocks heat from the back and bottom of the filter it would be much better.
It could still do just as good a job I feel like that mainly depends on what filter you buy if you do a good job on the plumbing
@@jeffhunt5964 the factory intake on this definitely flows better and I would bet performs better in every objective way compared to this intake. Which means more power could be made with the stock one.
Intakes are only beneficial with a tune, you need to compensate the fuel for the extra air. Factory air boxes suck though! But not very hard.
They sound good to if your cars boosted
@@wyatts9646 Yes they do!
You dont
@@r.a.p.k.models4160 long term fuel trim go brrrrr then
I once dremeled out my Mazdaspeed6 stock airbox/maf housing into a ghetto coupler and just threw a 2.5" filter on the end. Worked and sounded great!
its funny you mention "it'll get you home". Because my 98 C230 broke down on some back road in the woods and it just so happened to be the OEM rubber pipe from the maf to the engine melted. I had some old copper elbows and rubber tubing I used as an insert to fit it, It worked better than the OEM.
Day 319 of asking Donut to bring old B2B back
Make a turbo out of a leaf blower that is mounted to the side of the car, so you can access it out the window.
Love your content. Also love the wierd way outside sponsors have a timer on the ads and the Donut merch doesn't.😁
i took this video personal and made my own and it works flawlessly! thank you guys for the idea
I'm soooo glad you added the disclaimer about not making more power. Anyone who thinks this sort of thing adds power simply doesn't know how cars work.
Yeah, I did this to my jeep liberty. It was great. Even made a fiberglass box to shield it from the bay heat, and wrapped the ABS in Aluminum tape so nobody knew I was rocking shitter pipe. Didnt have to downsize the pipe at all
I made an intake for my old Grand Prix because the previous owner had left the stock air box, but just stuck a pod filter directly onto the throttlebody, and it looked like crap. I made a heat shield box out of sheet metal meant for patching HVAC ducting, lined it with aluminized bubble wrap stuff as well. Version 1 used some universal flexibility intake tubing i bought online, and I just used a 4" PVC connector to attach the filter to the tube. For Gen 2 I upgraded to the lager throttlebody from a Northstar V8. Got it, the external MAF, as well as the factory intake tube from the junk yard Cadilac for like $60 iirc. Throttle body -> intake tube -> MAF, stuck one side of the MAF through the hole in the heat shield, and attached the pod filter directly to the MAF. It actually ended up looking pretty professional, and still a fraction of what any aftermarket intake would have cost
I got my S&B intake for like $300 for my truck, not sure how much effect it actually has on performance, but throttle response feels better and for whatever reason it seems like I feel the engine more in the accelerator pedal. Cold air intake and exhaust are the two best mods I’ve ever paid for.
I would love to see you guys build a crown Victoria. You can make fair power, enough for fun from the stock 4.6 and it’s a great budget car. Great way to show how far weight loss and tires, suspension etc. can go without much of a boost in power. Huge fan of vics and of course your channel as always!
You can get one now for less than $100. I recommend using the flexible drain pipes if you go home Depot. You just have to drill a hole for the sensor.
I did the poop-pipe intake for an ls1 about 15 years ago. Great noise but probably negative power outcome. The thing started warping within a few days but it was still usable for a long time, probably a few months before I replaced it with a purpose built one. Also, where I am at least (NSW, Australia) it's illegal to have a pod-filter exposed in the engine bay.
This Is The Best DIY Show/Episode Ever. We Need More Of These For Some Of Who Literally Have Close To No Money. 10stars ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Ive been meaning to see this guy more often and produce his own segment so consider me a very happy viewer!
The cold air intake on my old Impreza Wagon was made out of a piece of flexible plastic gutter drain pipe. It still went into the factory airbox by the firewall so I didn't even have to add a cone filter on the other end, I just jammed it into the fender. Idk about performance gains but it made it sound alot better anyways.
I had a deer destroy my air intake manifold and the box and everything so this is super helpful
tbh i did a diy intake for me e34 using pcv pipes, the filter box has a cone shaped pipe which bugged the hell out of me, I cut it, cleaned the ut and installed a little bigger PVC pipe which is the same length using epoxy. i cleaned everything up using those small "grinders" then painted the whole thing heat resistant black (used for room heaters) and installed it. till now almost everyone who looked at my engine bay thought it was factory like that. i never been happier
I actually did this with a bunch of metal tubing on a 2004 v6 mustang. It made it sound not so stupid and increased horsepower by about 5-10 i'd say. Gas mileage also went up about 1 mpg. Not a bad creation for a bunch of scrap, sadly a month later the oil pan blew open and I got a case of the rod knock :(
Your episodes are why I love Donut! How about an episode on getting rid of drone from Cold Air Intakes?
8:56 deep breathing A BUNCH of HOT, LESS DENSE air and it's associated negatives right off the cooling fan and engine bay in general ? Great job !
I actually did this to my car 3 years ago and still have it there
I did that on my mazda 6 2.5 and 3,5Inch pipes and K&N filter. I did tune it to 197HP with it lol!! I did a cold air intake setup outside the engine bay.
I did the same exact thing on my 95 Z28, I put the filter down in front of the front tire thing worked great!!