I've been watching a few of your videos for some time now. I appreciate your honest opinion about products, techniques, and the like. I'm in the process of (re)building my studio in my basement. Although the project was started before I ever saw one of your videos, it's nice to know that many of the things you mention in your videos are the things that I have been doing. The studio door issue was just discussed yesterday. Thank you for confirming some of the ideas that were brought up. Keep up the good work. You are an amazing help and benefit to those of us who want the best for our recording environment.
Oh as far as framing ,I intend to upgrade the framing .What type of framing would be best for a heavy door?Metal,steel ,etc?I will also be using a push ,pull plate instead of a flush knob,locking type of mechanism,so a heavy duty door closer would be what I would be looking for.
You can use wood or metal for a heavy door. I would recommend at least 4 hinges and maybe even 6. My door has moved more than I would like with only 3 hinges. We did frame across the double wall at the door just to support it as Rod Gervais recommended in his book. It is important to have a sturdy frame to support a 300lb door.
@@soundproofyourstudio if we get the zero international door seal, what do you recommend for the other two layers of gasketing that Rob Gervais has in his design (instead of trunk rubber)?
I am currently struggling with being unsure on how to tackles the wall construction in a studio with pre existing walls, as all the the rooms are kinad connected... So I am considering putting in thing glass push doors into the walls between the rooms.. which will get me to three layers... which is not the best. But it makes it so I don´t have a direct path from the walls to the kitchen door... this would need a plan to explain XD
We used various sizes from Home Depot. I believe the main size was 3/4." www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-3-4-in-x-7-16-in-x-10-ft-Black-High-Density-Rubber-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-R734H/100047977
Great video :) Though as an european, I would have prefered to know how thick the lead sheets are, since I have no idea what 8 pounds per square foot of lead corresponds to in millimeters.
Yes, its probably about 3mm in thickness. I honestly would stay away from lead and would do a double door design. I no longer recommend what I did although it does work, but poses more issues than I would like. I will probably make a new video at some point.
I used 8lb/sq ft of sheet lead so just multiply the square footage of your door by 8 and you will get the total weight. I think my door would be around 160LBs of lead. I can't remember the exact dimensions off the top of my head.
Mass Loaded Vinyl is more effective and easier to work with compared to Lead. Its viscoelastic offering better decoupling as well as allowing layering. Zero International door seals are more effective then the "Frost King".
The goal with the lead is to add mass not necessarily to help with damping. With 2lb per square foot of MLV you would need 4 layers to match the 8lb per square foot of lead. The zero door seals are probably great, but more costly and honestly probably not ideal for a custom door design. Thanks for watching!!
Do you have suggestions for a front door lock under $100 for a conventional fiberglass door? I have a.converted shed with 3.5'' rockwool and 5/8'' drywall all around (no decoupling). 2 doors: barn door and conventional with couple inch air gap. Just trying to make the door as sealed as possible.
Cool video, but it wouldve been so much better if you wouldve showed the difference in sound pressure level inside vs outside with a decibel meter. Reason being is there exist all in one soundproofing door + frame sets, and those go up to 47dB or so, depending on frequency. Would be great to know if your DIY solution performs better or worse
I am getting a 112 lb. Metal door.Witch would be better if not using sheet lead,double 5/8” drywall with green glue and 3/4” birch plywood or Homasote with 5/8” drywall no green glue and 3/4” birch plywood?Thanks
Have you guys thought about using post frame construction (pole barn) for a cheap but decent single leaf wall? If built "out in the country" on a couple acres, I assume it would be enough to prevent sounds from the street level as well as not disturb the neighbors with live drumming. A post frame assembly would have 6" deep posts 8 feet OC, with 2x4s ("girts") placed horizontally 2 feet on center along the outside and inside of these posts. Use OSB outside and tape the seams, and a sheet of 5/8" drywall on the inside. This would create a wall about 9" thick with decent air-sealing. You could fill it with fiberglass insulation. The only direct paths for sound would be through the posts themselves and through windows/door. With a ~9" thick wall assembly, a well-sealed solid core door on the inside with a well-sealed storm door on the outside might be a solution here. Just thinking out loud, but this is what my budget has allowed me to come up with :) Great content! Thanks for the videos.
Hi ,enjoyed the video on soundproofing your studio door.I am replacing one of my doors in the studio and have looked at using your technique for adding weight.I found a company called Phillips-Safety and saw that they have the Lead sheeting in a 4x8 sheet at 1/32" thickness. Will that be thick enough for a roughly 80" x 30.5" door ?Also,would the 3/4" birch plywood on the front and back of the solid core door be all that I would need?Did you add drywall to your door or is that not needed in this case with the sheet lead?Thank you
Hey Jameel! thanks for watching. Make sure the sheet lead is 8 lb/sq foot and that will have enough weight. You only need one piece of plywood over the sheet lead. I don't think you will need drywall after doing all that. It will be a very heavy door!
What did you use for the magnetic weather stripping? Maybe I’m not using the correct keywords on Google, but I can’t seem to find anything like what you show at the 3:25 mark.
Hey bud. Cool video, and VERY cool studio! Do you remember what hinges you used? And how many? Putting final touched on my door now before I hang it. It too is going to be around 250 lbs. Reinforced all the framing around the door, but I'm not seeing a good option for hinges yet. Thanks in advance! -Ben
Hey Ben! Sorry for the late reply. You know we just grabbed the biggest hinges available at home depot. I used 3, but I would probably use four hinges if I could do it all over again. Also we used really long screws. They were probably about 3-4 inches. I think that also helps with reinforcing those hinges. Thanks for watching.
@@soundproofyourstudio thank you very much! one more question if you wouldnt mind? how did you stop the lead sheets from sinking/dropping down under the weight? we have just nailed the lead onto the door (its very heavy as expected) we are playing with ideas of how best to keep the sheets from dropping down. many thanks
@@willwhiting937 If you sandwich the door with another layer of 3/4 inch plywood it won't sink. It will be stuck in there. I also recommend caulking any places where the sheet lead is showing. You don't want lead dust to enter the air especially if you have kids. Be safe with the lead. Wear gloves and an n95 mask. Otherwise it is the perfect material for the door. Best of luck!
Great video! very helpful! Thanks a lot! Is your door lifted a little bit above the ground? So it swings easily above the floor? Meaning the base of your door is a little higher than your floor.
Glad you enjoyed it! It is actually lower. The bottom outside door hits some rubber against my floor and then the inside part goes over the top of the floor and there is a strip of metal on the floor that the magnetic stripping attaches too. Let me know if that makes sense.
You know It really depends on the gap you have. So experimenting with a few different sizes might be the best option. We used a few different sizes to seal up as much of the door as possible.
Great video! It doesn't need to be longer than that. Especially if the model is to get people to your website and the Soundproofing course :) (not meant in a bad way!) I've subscribed to the free course :) Thanks!
FREE Soundproofing Workshop: www.soundproofyourstudio.com/workshop
I've been watching a few of your videos for some time now. I appreciate your honest opinion about products, techniques, and the like. I'm in the process of (re)building my studio in my basement. Although the project was started before I ever saw one of your videos, it's nice to know that many of the things you mention in your videos are the things that I have been doing. The studio door issue was just discussed yesterday. Thank you for confirming some of the ideas that were brought up. Keep up the good work. You are an amazing help and benefit to those of us who want the best for our recording environment.
Now that’s a f*ckin’ door! I like that idea of the vestibule, too.
Sure Is!
That third option was simply amazing!
Thanks for watching Roland!
Did you use Green glue on the lead sheeting?
No need for green glue on the door.
No need for Green Glue anywhere! Use Big Stretch instead.
Oh as far as framing ,I intend to upgrade the framing .What type of framing would be best for a heavy door?Metal,steel ,etc?I will also be using a push ,pull plate instead of a flush knob,locking type of mechanism,so a heavy duty door closer would be what I would be looking for.
You can use wood or metal for a heavy door. I would recommend at least 4 hinges and maybe even 6. My door has moved more than I would like with only 3 hinges. We did frame across the double wall at the door just to support it as Rod Gervais recommended in his book. It is important to have a sturdy frame to support a 300lb door.
Do you remember the exact type of weather strips you used? Thanks
@decibelstudiosLA we used frost king.
which frost king product did you use? they have so many. I'm guessing you used the heaviest rubber they have available?
I didn’t really recommend frost king anymore. I would go with a zero international door seal.
@@soundproofyourstudio thx for the quick reply. will look into it!
@@soundproofyourstudio if we get the zero international door seal, what do you recommend for the other two layers of gasketing that Rob Gervais has in his design (instead of trunk rubber)?
Did your solid core door have compressor wood inside?
Im not sure, but we got it at Home Depot.
I am currently struggling with being unsure on how to tackles the wall construction in a studio with pre existing walls, as all the the rooms are kinad connected... So I am considering putting in thing glass push doors into the walls between the rooms.. which will get me to three layers... which is not the best. But it makes it so I don´t have a direct path from the walls to the kitchen door... this would need a plan to explain XD
It does sound complicated. You can always sign up for a free soundproof clarity call: www.soundproofyourstudio.com/Step1
@@soundproofyourstudio Already did. On the 8th... so tomorrow. Currently trying to get all the documentation together.
Great video, thanks so posting. What product specifically did you use by Frost King?
We used various sizes from Home Depot. I believe the main size was 3/4." www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-3-4-in-x-7-16-in-x-10-ft-Black-High-Density-Rubber-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-R734H/100047977
Great video :) Though as an european, I would have prefered to know how thick the lead sheets are, since I have no idea what 8 pounds per square foot of lead corresponds to in millimeters.
Yes, its probably about 3mm in thickness. I honestly would stay away from lead and would do a double door design. I no longer recommend what I did although it does work, but poses more issues than I would like. I will probably make a new video at some point.
@@soundproofyourstudio okay thank you :)
Thanks for the video
You are welcome
What is the total weight of your sheet lead?
I used 8lb/sq ft of sheet lead so just multiply the square footage of your door by 8 and you will get the total weight. I think my door would be around 160LBs of lead. I can't remember the exact dimensions off the top of my head.
Great ideas! Very helpful indeed.
Thanks for watching!
Mass Loaded Vinyl is more effective and easier to work with compared to Lead. Its viscoelastic offering better decoupling as well as allowing layering. Zero International door seals are more effective then the "Frost King".
The goal with the lead is to add mass not necessarily to help with damping. With 2lb per square foot of MLV you would need 4 layers to match the 8lb per square foot of lead. The zero door seals are probably great, but more costly and honestly probably not ideal for a custom door design. Thanks for watching!!
nice video! I found lead sheets, but what kind of door did you get? Im trying to replace my home depot solid core door..
I used a Home Depot solid core door
Do you have suggestions for a front door lock under $100 for a conventional fiberglass door? I have a.converted shed with 3.5'' rockwool and 5/8'' drywall all around (no decoupling). 2 doors: barn door and conventional with couple inch air gap. Just trying to make the door as sealed as possible.
Mortised locks tend to be better, but just seal the door up and don’t worry too much about the lock.
Cool video, but it wouldve been so much better if you wouldve showed the difference in sound pressure level inside vs outside with a decibel meter.
Reason being is there exist all in one soundproofing door + frame sets, and those go up to 47dB or so, depending on frequency. Would be great to know if your DIY solution performs better or worse
@kazaakas great idea for another video!
Do the double doors still work for insulating when you do not have the space between the 2 walls (aka 2 doors attached to 1 wall)?
Yes, the double doors will still work well. The double wall system is best, but a single wall with hat channels also will work well.
I am getting a 112 lb. Metal door.Witch would be better if not using sheet lead,double 5/8” drywall with green glue and 3/4” birch plywood or Homasote with 5/8” drywall no green glue and 3/4” birch plywood?Thanks
Great idea
Do you know if I can buy the sheet lead at Home Depot? Where did you get yours?
No, I would also look at steel plates rather than sheet lead. You can use rotometals.
Have you guys thought about using post frame construction (pole barn) for a cheap but decent single leaf wall? If built "out in the country" on a couple acres, I assume it would be enough to prevent sounds from the street level as well as not disturb the neighbors with live drumming.
A post frame assembly would have 6" deep posts 8 feet OC, with 2x4s ("girts") placed horizontally 2 feet on center along the outside and inside of these posts. Use OSB outside and tape the seams, and a sheet of 5/8" drywall on the inside. This would create a wall about 9" thick with decent air-sealing. You could fill it with fiberglass insulation. The only direct paths for sound would be through the posts themselves and through windows/door. With a ~9" thick wall assembly, a well-sealed solid core door on the inside with a well-sealed storm door on the outside might be a solution here.
Just thinking out loud, but this is what my budget has allowed me to come up with :)
Great content! Thanks for the videos.
Interesting, I have not thought about it
Hi ,enjoyed the video on soundproofing your studio door.I am replacing one of my doors in the studio and have looked at using your technique for adding weight.I found a company called Phillips-Safety and saw that they have the Lead sheeting in a 4x8 sheet at 1/32" thickness. Will that be thick enough for a roughly 80" x 30.5" door ?Also,would the 3/4" birch plywood on the front and back of the solid core door be all that I would need?Did you add drywall to your door or is that not needed in this case with the sheet lead?Thank you
Hey Jameel! thanks for watching. Make sure the sheet lead is 8 lb/sq foot and that will have enough weight. You only need one piece of plywood over the sheet lead. I don't think you will need drywall after doing all that. It will be a very heavy door!
The more mass the better.
What did you use for the magnetic weather stripping? Maybe I’m not using the correct keywords on Google, but I can’t seem to find anything like what you show at the 3:25 mark.
I no longer recommend magnetic weather stripping. I prefer zero international seals now.
Did you use the 3/4" plywood on both sides of the solid core door or just the front?
Just the back
Hey bud. Cool video, and VERY cool studio!
Do you remember what hinges you used? And how many? Putting final touched on my door now before I hang it. It too is going to be around 250 lbs. Reinforced all the framing around the door, but I'm not seeing a good option for hinges yet. Thanks in advance! -Ben
Hey Ben! Sorry for the late reply. You know we just grabbed the biggest hinges available at home depot. I used 3, but I would probably use four hinges if I could do it all over again. Also we used really long screws. They were probably about 3-4 inches. I think that also helps with reinforcing those hinges. Thanks for watching.
Great Tip... Thank you so much !
You are welcome!
which thickness sheet lead did you use?
8 pounds per square foot.
@@soundproofyourstudio thank you very much! one more question if you wouldnt mind? how did you stop the lead sheets from sinking/dropping down under the weight? we have just nailed the lead onto the door (its very heavy as expected) we are playing with ideas of how best to keep the sheets from dropping down. many thanks
@@willwhiting937 If you sandwich the door with another layer of 3/4 inch plywood it won't sink. It will be stuck in there. I also recommend caulking any places where the sheet lead is showing. You don't want lead dust to enter the air especially if you have kids. Be safe with the lead. Wear gloves and an n95 mask. Otherwise it is the perfect material for the door. Best of luck!
Great video! very helpful! Thanks a lot!
Is your door lifted a little bit above the ground? So it swings easily above the floor?
Meaning the base of your door is a little higher than your floor.
Glad you enjoyed it! It is actually lower. The bottom outside door hits some rubber against my floor and then the inside part goes over the top of the floor and there is a strip of metal on the floor that the magnetic stripping attaches too. Let me know if that makes sense.
I did a search for Frost King and found they make many kinds of weather stripping. Is there a part number you can give me for this stuff? Thanks!
You know It really depends on the gap you have. So experimenting with a few different sizes might be the best option. We used a few different sizes to seal up as much of the door as possible.
2:07 - edit... why the edit?
Not sure why the edit was a problem.
Two doors on opposite sides of door opening makes a real sound seal.
Yup it is a great option.
And when you’ve built it send it to a publisher
Okay
Great video! It doesn't need to be longer than that. Especially if the model is to get people to your website and the Soundproofing course :) (not meant in a bad way!) I've subscribed to the free course :) Thanks!
Thanks for watching and see you in the course!
*
Th ask for watching
Tap yap yap
Thanks for watching. Are you planning on building a home recording studio?