Am doing Home Theater in basement and will follow recommendations but will only use one door...space issue...and probably go with a less expensive perimeter gasket. Figure my walls should be ~ 55 STC. Your double door system gets to mid 60's STC. I'm hoping my door will get to mid 40's STC but the reality is I would never have had a chance without your great information. These videos and narratives are really appreciated. Thanks much.
Great information! Got a bunch here for you, hope you can help. I’m finishing my basement and I can’t make a fully isolated home theater room. I’m turning the living are into a home theater “section”. When you walk downstairs, it’s completely open to the upstairs. Ranch style home. I’m going to build a double wall just like you did to separate the upstairs from basement. Within the walkout basement, there will be two exterior walls to the backyard, one 39’ and the other 18’. This 18’ wall is half exposed to underground due to the yard slope on the side of the house. The other 39’ interior wall will have the soundproof door on it, then the other 18’ wall will be a double wall too with a bedroom on the other side. The entry to this bedroom is adjacent to a door going to a bathroom and another door into the utility room. Small hallway with three doors basically. Ceiling will have the metal channels and clips with two layers of 5/8” drywall, and R-19. The interior double walls will be R-19, with two layers of 5/8” drywall too. My goal is to be able to watch movies without upsetting anyone in upstairs bedrooms, living area, or downstairs bedroom. What about 180 degree hinges so the door can stay open and out of the way if needed? How do I take care of HVAC vents? What is the STC with no door, compared to one door, compared to two doors? 0, 35, 62? Thoughts on carpet for flooring under the door with a seal? Did you cover the rubber bridge just the looks? Are my exterior walls to the backyard going to impact anything in a bad way? Should I do two layers of 5/8” drywall on the exterior walls too? Should I do double exterior walls just like the interior walls? I don’t care about sound escaping outside or coming in from outside. I only care about sound to the upstairs. If I did 1/2” drywall on the exterior walls, would sound travel up them to the upstairs? My wife wants an interior window on the same wall as this door in question; natural light into our office at the bottom of the stairs. I’m getting an acoustic window for almost $3k. Question is how do I make that window secure to one of the two walls, while not letting the window jamb and trim bridge the two walls together? That rubber density sheet stuff between the window casing trim and window rough opening? Thank you!
There is a lot to unpack here. I wouldn’t do a single thing if you are not going to create a n isolated room. Sound is only controlled if all the walls and ceiling are accounted for. Floor too. I am worried you are going to waste a ton of money and not get the results you want. If you want to talk it over I highly recommend jumping on a quick call: Soundproof Clarity Call Application - www.soundproofyourstudio.com/Step1
Great info. Thank you! I have to put in double-wide doors to be able to roll a grand piano out to an outdoor slab without taking it down. That double-wide door was the worst sound leak in my previous studio build. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
Honestly double wide doors are super hard. The only thing I can think of is putting a door jamb in the middle that can be removed. That way you can attach seals around the middle part of the door. Actually that just popped in my head but totally could work!
@@soundproofyourstudio Good idea! Thanks. I’m talking to my builder today and will put him to thinking about that. The door won’t be used a lot and only during the summer, so I don’t see why that wouldn’t work.
Great video, UA-cam views have not done it justice. I am doing this within a residence where typically entry is just for cleaning. One door is done already the typical route with spray foam around the door jamb and a Home Depot Door kit. The other door I am going to try like you have it here which means getting properly situated / adjusted to fit will be much tougher. You didn't address this. I may use 5 hinges to hold more weight. On the floor I will put neoprene rubber 3/4 in thick on top of the exist tile that hopefully nobody will trip on and then a stick on the back of the door the pushes up flush against it. Way lower budget but utilizing concepts seen here. Much thanks for the video.
The biggest problem I see with sealing is that wood doors warp. The tightest seal being where the latch is located and obviously along the hinge edge. This leaves the top and bottom to flare and not compress against the seal; increasingly over time. I've decided to try a security door. This meets the weight/mass requirement (16ga steel door + extras = 180 lbs), comes with a vault seal all around, and has locking bolts all around which will keep the door against the seal along all 3 edges. it cost ~$1000 and if i still have to add mass to it, it won't cost too much. I can also add a secondary seal as well with some angle iron. In the end for about the same cost (lesser to start) I get an easier and quicker install. Also can be used as an exterior door, which I needed. oh, and it's a security door, because we all know how much the equipment inside costs
Hi there. I would like your opinon please. What about building a door from two sheets of 5/8" MDF with the 1/4" in between filled with fine sand. What do you think?
Can you share a link to a solid core door at a place like Home Depot? I’ve never been able to find one that works for having one side on the exterior and facing the elements.
a lot of great information! What are your opinions of using sliding patio doors for a studio? Aslo there are 5 inch backset latches for doors to push the door handle in more, though works with traditionaal door handles, not sure if that would work as well.
True enough. Im not really planning since i dont have the space, but enjoy the thought process and ideas behind these kinds of things. @@soundproofyourstudio
Would you mind sharing your Sketchup file? I'd like to poke around it myself to look at some details. It's not always super clear when watching someone else navigate around.
It needs to be re tested. The only tests I can find are from 2008 when Brian Ravnas owned the company. Brian says Saint Gobain changed the ingredients. Either way Rod no longer recommends it and his book doesn't mention ever using it except on one small page. I think it is not necessary and people are obsessed with Green Glue! Sound isolation is so much more than glue and MLV. sorry I clearly feel very strongly about this. @@philipaaberg160
@@soundproofyourstudio Nothing to be sorry about, but I still don’t see the WHY in your answer about your lack of confidence with Green Glue. Maybe all the yes sites are given free GG or being paid? I have no opinion, just trying to decide if it’s worth the cost. I am aware of all the other basic necessities of sound proofing. Made enough mistakes building my first studio.
Yeah it can't hurt to use GG, but it is costly. MLV is also costly as well. I would do three layers of drywall over two layers and GG. I will have to do an updated video one of these days. @@philipaaberg160
FREE Soundproofing Workshop: www.soundproofyourstudio.com/workshop
Am doing Home Theater in basement and will follow recommendations but will only use one door...space issue...and probably go with a less expensive perimeter gasket. Figure my walls should be ~ 55 STC. Your double door system gets to mid 60's STC. I'm hoping my door will get to mid 40's STC but the reality is I would never have had a chance without your great information. These videos and narratives are really appreciated. Thanks much.
Thanks for watching and glad you found it insightful.
How did the single door work?
Great information! Got a bunch here for you, hope you can help. I’m finishing my basement and I can’t make a fully isolated home theater room. I’m turning the living are into a home theater “section”. When you walk downstairs, it’s completely open to the upstairs. Ranch style home. I’m going to build a double wall just like you did to separate the upstairs from basement. Within the walkout basement, there will be two exterior walls to the backyard, one 39’ and the other 18’. This 18’ wall is half exposed to underground due to the yard slope on the side of the house. The other 39’ interior wall will have the soundproof door on it, then the other 18’ wall will be a double wall too with a bedroom on the other side. The entry to this bedroom is adjacent to a door going to a bathroom and another door into the utility room. Small hallway with three doors basically. Ceiling will have the metal channels and clips with two layers of 5/8” drywall, and R-19. The interior double walls will be R-19, with two layers of 5/8” drywall too. My goal is to be able to watch movies without upsetting anyone in upstairs bedrooms, living area, or downstairs bedroom.
What about 180 degree hinges so the door can stay open and out of the way if needed?
How do I take care of HVAC vents?
What is the STC with no door, compared to one door, compared to two doors? 0, 35, 62?
Thoughts on carpet for flooring under the door with a seal?
Did you cover the rubber bridge just the looks?
Are my exterior walls to the backyard going to impact anything in a bad way?
Should I do two layers of 5/8” drywall on the exterior walls too?
Should I do double exterior walls just like the interior walls? I don’t care about sound escaping outside or coming in from outside. I only care about sound to the upstairs.
If I did 1/2” drywall on the exterior walls, would sound travel up them to the upstairs?
My wife wants an interior window on the same wall as this door in question; natural light into our office at the bottom of the stairs. I’m getting an acoustic window for almost $3k. Question is how do I make that window secure to one of the two walls, while not letting the window jamb and trim bridge the two walls together? That rubber density sheet stuff between the window casing trim and window rough opening?
Thank you!
There is a lot to unpack here. I wouldn’t do a single thing if you are not going to create a n isolated room. Sound is only controlled if all the walls and ceiling are accounted for. Floor too. I am worried you are going to waste a ton of money and not get the results you want. If you want to talk it over I highly recommend jumping on a quick call: Soundproof Clarity Call Application - www.soundproofyourstudio.com/Step1
@ I just filled out the form on your website. Thank you for this!
Great info. Thank you!
I have to put in double-wide doors to be able to roll a grand piano out to an outdoor slab without taking it down.
That double-wide door was the worst sound leak in my previous studio build. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
Honestly double wide doors are super hard. The only thing I can think of is putting a door jamb in the middle that can be removed. That way you can attach seals around the middle part of the door. Actually that just popped in my head but totally could work!
@@soundproofyourstudio
Good idea! Thanks. I’m talking to my builder today and will put him to thinking about that. The door won’t be used a lot and only during the summer, so I don’t see why that wouldn’t work.
amazing I just abaout to start that at my home studio. thanks for your ideas.
Thanks for watching!
Great video, UA-cam views have not done it justice. I am doing this within a residence where typically entry is just for cleaning. One door is done already the typical route with spray foam around the door jamb and a Home Depot Door kit. The other door I am going to try like you have it here which means getting properly situated / adjusted to fit will be much tougher. You didn't address this. I may use 5 hinges to hold more weight. On the floor I will put neoprene rubber 3/4 in thick on top of the exist tile that hopefully nobody will trip on and then a stick on the back of the door the pushes up flush against it. Way lower budget but utilizing concepts seen here. Much thanks for the video.
Glad it helped
The biggest problem I see with sealing is that wood doors warp. The tightest seal being where the latch is located and obviously along the hinge edge. This leaves the top and bottom to flare and not compress against the seal; increasingly over time. I've decided to try a security door. This meets the weight/mass requirement (16ga steel door + extras = 180 lbs), comes with a vault seal all around, and has locking bolts all around which will keep the door against the seal along all 3 edges. it cost ~$1000 and if i still have to add mass to it, it won't cost too much. I can also add a secondary seal as well with some angle iron. In the end for about the same cost (lesser to start) I get an easier and quicker install. Also can be used as an exterior door, which I needed. oh, and it's a security door, because we all know how much the equipment inside costs
Hi there. I would like your opinon please. What about building a door from two sheets of 5/8" MDF with the 1/4" in between filled with fine sand. What do you think?
Can you share a link to a solid core door at a place like Home Depot? I’ve never been able to find one that works for having one side on the exterior and facing the elements.
I just searched solid core door slab.
@@soundproofyourstudio I see. But those are denoted as interior doors. Do you have any experience with how they hold up as exterior doors?
a lot of great information! What are your opinions of using sliding patio doors for a studio? Aslo there are 5 inch backset latches for doors to push the door handle in more, though works with traditionaal door handles, not sure if that would work as well.
Sliding patio doors need to be high end and bought from a reputable supplier, but it can be done. Are you planning your own home recording studio?
True enough. Im not really planning since i dont have the space, but enjoy the thought process and ideas behind these kinds of things. @@soundproofyourstudio
Awesome! Maybe one day...
You mention a metal layer added to the door for mass. Would a layer of 2lb MLV also work in this application? It would seem a cheaper option.
Depends on the mass. It all comes to calculating your wall mass and trying to exceed it with your doors.
Would you mind sharing your Sketchup file? I'd like to poke around it myself to look at some details. It's not always super clear when watching someone else navigate around.
I won’t be sharing the sketch up file but I may make a pdf doc at some point.
@@soundproofyourstudio I understand. I'd be interested in the pdf if you make it. Thanks for the video :)
Why not just greenglue two sheets of drywall onto the inside face of your door, leaving space for a rubber gap filler when the door closes?
It’s a bit ugly and I don’t recommend green glue anymore.
Why don’t you recommend Green Glue? Gervais seems to be very fond of it.
It needs to be re tested. The only tests I can find are from 2008 when Brian Ravnas owned the company. Brian says Saint Gobain changed the ingredients. Either way Rod no longer recommends it and his book doesn't mention ever using it except on one small page. I think it is not necessary and people are obsessed with Green Glue! Sound isolation is so much more than glue and MLV. sorry I clearly feel very strongly about this.
@@philipaaberg160
@@soundproofyourstudio Nothing to be sorry about, but I still don’t see the WHY in your answer about your lack of confidence with Green Glue. Maybe all the yes sites are given free GG or being paid? I have no opinion, just trying to decide if it’s worth the cost. I am aware of all the other basic necessities of sound proofing. Made enough mistakes building my first studio.
Yeah it can't hurt to use GG, but it is costly. MLV is also costly as well. I would do three layers of drywall over two layers and GG. I will have to do an updated video one of these days. @@philipaaberg160