This is my second channel...Check out the Primary Channel Here: Airbag Warning Diag and More! Hyundai Elantra 1.8! ua-cam.com/video/D_yZ8p1AqMw/v-deo.html
Dual filament bulbs will sometimes give that symptom when the circuit gets completed via the alternate path. Marker light completes circuit through the turn signal circuit, causing the turn signal indicator on the dash to light solid.
My daughter has had a 2012 Elantra since 2016. The turn signal lights (both front and rear) have given her trouble for at least 5 of the 8 years that she has owned it. When the front one had the same symptom as the car in this video, it was the housing connector prong (it didn't protrude enough for a good connection). When the rear one had issues (annually), it was the fact that the factory harness connection heated up so much that the plastic changed color (apparently, this is very common issue with these vehicles--loose connection-->arcing-->heat, etc.). The excess heat would severely diminish the bulb life. Good job, Ray. Thanks for the video.
Hello Ray! This video brought back memories of working on English designed electrical systems. Lucas Electric, The Prince of Darkness! But it was good training for solving electrical problems in all vehicles. Looking for bad filaments in bulbs was an everyday thing. One thing I noted was using a magnifying glass to examine filaments for wear. Since bulbs were pretty cheap, if you found one out and noticed filament wear, you replaced almost all bulbs. Nine times out of ten you'd find that the other bulbs were dark, filaments had lots of shiny spots (you could see that easily on halogen headlamps) and you knew they were going to fail soon. It was preventive maintenance and you wouldn't have to worry about replacing any bulb for years! Nowadays the great LED has come to the rescue! So your LED headlamp can go out, and it turns out the problem is not the LED headlamp but a "body control" module that costs a thousand dollars! Now that's what I call real progress! 🤣🤣🤣 And here comes CAN bus addressable LED lamps. What could possibly go wrong?
you probably already know this ray, but a rapid flash usually means 'under-current' in a signal circuit. (i.e and open circuit bulb). people who use LED bulbs have to simulate the current draw or modern flash circuits complain thinking the bulb is gone.
Had a Wells Fargo ATM issue with the back service screen was working in service mode but giving random responsive in Bank mode. Previous tech order a new back screen, but he was off next day and call giving to me. Replaced screen and my side was OK but bank side issue remained. The manufacturer said order another screen. But I thought was nuts. Checked resistances on cables and found theubs cable week. Replaced cables with a heavier printer cable to service screen. Issue resolved. Just do not over think the root cause. Bulbs can go out for any reason..great video...thanks
Ray the way the turn lights are working tell you what is wrong 1. the fast blinking says that the turn lights are bad 2. the fact that the lights on dash do not blink when the runners are on tells you that the runners are not working correctly 3. the facts that the blinkers are working normally on the out side with 1,2 it means that the runner light in one of the turn lights is not working 4. by switching on the hazard lights you can see that only the driver side running light in the turn light is working this is my take
The fast flash is due to low resistance in the line. Both the front and rear are wired together, and, depending on the year of the vehicle, either the blinking is controlled by the BCM or the blinker relay. If it is controlled by the BCM, then when the BCM detects a resistance on the line that is lower than 50 ohms, it will perform a rapid flash. If it is controlled by the flasher relay, then the lower the resistance on the line, the faster the flash. A low resistance usually indicates a failed bulb. Interesting enough, if both bulbs on one side fail and the blinking is controlled by the flasher relay, then you'll end up with a constant on light (and also a buzzing sound from the flasher relay cycling fast). In BCM-controlled vehicles, you get the same rapid flash as you do when one is out. You'll discover this quickly if you try to convert the lights from standard incandescent bulbs to LED bulbs, as LED bulbs have a lower resistance. In my 1999 Ford F-150, I found it was controlled by the flasher relay. I had to put a 50-ohm heat-sinked resistor across hot and ground to provide resistance on the line so it will blink normally. In my 2012 Ford F-150, I discovered that the blink is simulated by the BCM (as well as the "clicking" sound of a relay). In that case, I had to take a computer and go into the BCM directly (using a program called Forscan though a USB OBD2 adapter) and change a value in the configuration data to turn off monitoring for failed bulbs.
That is how I test them. Give them a tap. A wrong part number bulb will cause blinkage troubles also. People think that if it fits it works. Not always.
I had the same problem twice on 2 different carts. The first one was the same as yours, one of the filaments had broken and caused an open circuit. The second one was different. Someone at some time earlier had replaced the rear bulb with a 2 filament bulb, forcing it into the socket, and causing all kinds of issues with the dash indicators and fast flashing although the bulbs worked properly. When I first saw your video I immediately told myself check all of the bulbs before going too deeply into it.
I was going to suggest checking all the bulbs in the previous video. My ex had a Kia Forte 5 door. Pretty much the same car except a five-door. I replaced all the exterior lights with LED bulbs. Didn't notice until I drove it that evening that every time I hit the brakes or signaled, the whole center stack would light up and the directional indicators in the cluster with dim. Wound up removing just two of the combination brake/tail light LED bulbs and replace them with regular incandescent bulbs. All was well afterwards.
Used to run into this a lot on older cars and trailer dual filament bulbs. One filament breaks, falls across the other filament and then back feeds the other circuit.
Same thing with my Suzuki Swift 2000. Replace all the bulbs when you have weird symptoms like that. "Old Good bulb" can fail anytime. Good job Ray. From North, Québec!
Excellent troubleshooting Ray. It's never the obvious when it comes to a visual inspection so it was gud you noticed the loose filament in the bulb. I have a habit of gently shaking the bulbs since I got a defective one from Walmart and had me stumped after replacing it. It took a second untill with frustration I discovered the loose broken filament. I also had one with the light sockets wire was broken at the socket and the visual and ohm test gave no visible broken wires and ohmed out at 0 ohms. It was when I retested the resistance I had changed the tension on the wire did I discover the broken wire to the connector in the socket at the base
Glad you found the problem. Just the way I am, but if I already had those rear light fixtures out, I would have just gone ahead and replaced those too. I mean, they might last for years, or being the same age as the front bulbs, they might go poof next week.
Yes! I also have been unwell... Saw pt 1. Was fustrated - mentally encouraging you to check both bulbs (lamps) then the ground connections. They always corrode... Waaaaaay back early '80's my father, life long ford tech, told me my company van with 'indicator problems' (I'd checked the bulbs (lamps)) had a bad ground. Same sort of plug and twist system as the vehicle here. 'I would have liked' you clean and adjust all the fittings as you did on the L front but of course, you are on a fixed rate.. Next time eh? ALWAYS check the lamps and grounds on these systems🫠 ❤ your work & channel man
lol...thank you. Found out my replacement bulb was also broke, thanks to this video, after replacing the socket and checking fuses (and losing my fuse puller) even though it looked good. K.I.S.S.
Hi Ray, so even you have forgotten things witch were common before scantools, like that rapid flash blinker thing, so dont trust only that computer, oldfashion way is still needed, like mechanical fails too. Dont forget what you have learned over years, just ad these new things on it.
I recently had a rear brake bulb jump from brake filament to tail light filament turning on the market lights when the brakes were applied. Also the cruise control didn't work when lights were on lol
Lucky I found this post. Wish it had come up in the primary channel. Guess that means I have to subscribe to this channel as well. As usual, nice work Ray.
I was giving my patrol car an equipment check before duty, and ' when the turn signals were activated, the dash lights and headlights would flash in sequence. Having our garage check it, the problem was a burnt out side marker bulb. Amazing what a disruption of circuits do to todays ' vehicle systems.
Good video ray! Bulbs are a secondary thought but easiest to check. Its rare that bulbs is the root of the problem but you did your due dilligence and it tirmed out great again!!! Thanks ray!! P.s. hello to wife unit and dave and jesus! All you guys are great and good to see you each day!!!
Not a mechanic here. Just a driver who tries to DIY what I can. I didn't understand what was so complicated in the first video on this issue, but what do I know. Maybe things have become a whole lot more complicated over the years. I haven't had an issue with a bad bulb for 30 yrs or more, but back then we knew that the rapid flashing turn signal meant that we had a bad bulb. It may have taken a bit of time to chase down which was bad, but we ended up finding it and fixing it. I like watching the troubleshooting steps and listening to the chatter, but I think this was overcomplicated.
The strangest lighting situation I've ever seen was on my own car. One night I was pulling into my garage after turning the lights off. When I stepped on the brakes, the front parking lights turned on. I checked all the bulbs and they all appeared fine. I thought it might be a wiring problem. My buddy noticed that one taillight bulb was in "bright" mode when the lights were on, but the brakes were not. One filament in the dual bulb, 1157, had broken and was touching the other filament. When either system was on both filaments lit up. When the brakes were on, the power would back feed into the parking light circuit. Never saw that situation again.
Ugh, why isn't this on the main channel? Many comments from previous videos were ragging on Ray about the late follow-up 😅 PS for those with crappy near sight vision... To test the bulb filament, grab your cheap harbor freight multimeter, and set it to ohms to test the continuity of that filament Good alternative to banging the bulb to see that wire wiggle inside that bulb? Thumbs up if this is a good alternative besides just swapping with a good known 💡
can i ask a silly question, when you had the rear lights apart why wouldnt you automatically replace the bulbs? I mean its been a while bu those things should cost a buck or 2and you already had the labour into them
Any time I had a bad bulb I would replace all of them assuming the similar age and wearing except for backups that never seemed to fail. Why repeat the work again in the near future when a few more bucks just refreshes it?
the reason they still use incandescent bulbs in airplanes. after a crash, they look at the bulbs to see which ones are broken, hit a cold bulb hard enough, the filament will fall off or break, but a hot one will flap around and not break.
Sure wish my grandson's ford fusion was that easy. A guy flipped me off when I turned right at a corner. Thought a bulb was out. Turned out to be a bad "smart power block"". Part alone was $800! The whole fuse block had to be changed out. Total for a bad turn signal was over a grand.
This car is the first one I've seen with dual filament bulbs for indicators. All cars I've driven so far only have single filament bulbs. Only the brake lights have dual filament bulbs (one for brake light, the other for presence light).
@@ricebike I don't know if European standards are the same as in the US. I've had a Ford Escort Mark II, Ford Escort Mark III, Nissan Primera, Ford Focus and none of them had dual filament bulbs except for the brake and presence lights. Edit: Spelling.
Hmm speculation time. The broken filament might have been bridging the two circuits. That would cause the rapid flash (assuming an old style flasher unit, excessive load would cause the flasher to heat quicker than planned, like with large trailes with more then two additional turn indicators on passenger cars without a trailer grade flasher unit) as well as the constant on condition
Modern flasher units are micro controlled now, the rapid flash is usually done by a current sensor that is out of range (whether over or under i don't think matters). heater controlled flashers haven't been used for about 20 years afaik.
@@TwoWheeledPotato true-ish. My sisters 2018 Prius has micro controled turn and hazard, but my boss's 2022 CRV has the thermal for the turn and micro for the hazard. Hazzard is run through the cars computers, and will be activated automatically if in a crash or a serious fault occurs. I'd say it depends on the manufacturer and trim level as what you get, but most do tend to get the micro controlled ones now. Though vehicle's setup for large trailer towing seem to only have the thermal flasher units.
you ought to try my volvo, a single pin to remove and the headlight unit comes out, 10 second max. ( though the marker light bulb is buried so deep in the headlight it took me 30 minutes to replace)
On old cars with (Thomas Edison) bulbs like those a fast flashing indicator is pretty much always indicative of a bad bulb or loose bulb contact connection !
that is very sensitive for resistance what if they use a LED ? will that send a different resistance to the ecd causing a similar issue? great find, way to go!
My car if a main beam bulb goes the high beam is switched on on that side on a lower duty cycle so as not to dazzle which can lead you to think there is a wiring fault but there isn’t
On a 2016 Elantra, replaced all front and rear dual filament lamps (park and turn function) due to age and flash rate on left turn signal. Initially problems solved. After a short time, left turn signal again flashed rapidly. Checked grounds to be ok on headlamp master connector. Removed lamp again and cleaned the internal and external park and turn socket contacts. Reinstalled, work correctly and again after a brief time flashed rapidly. Removed everything one more time and realized that the internal socket contact had very little tension on lamp base(ground). Bent contact inward and added a small rubber shim underneath to maintain solid contact. Problem solved. These Park and turn socket contact are very flimsy with the internal ground the worst of the 3 contacts.
Two words - Occam's Razor. I am really surprised with your superior diagnostic ability that you didn't check the bulbs first. It's not a criticism, just saying...
I had a simular problem where et tuen signals would worh properly when holding them on buy not actually puting them fully. but ounce they started to flash rapidly I had to stop the encine and restart. then they would be OK for a while. Turns out thar at the base of the Right Front Signal Bulb (Not 1157) the wire conts appeared to be BURNT/Over Heated. Replaces the Bulb and a year and a halfs frustration with the directionals dissapeared. but I still mostly hold the directional handle and not engauge it fully.
Thing is, if the car was simpler, the cause of fast flash is obvious. In this case, there must be a computer in between the turn signal stalk and the light bulb that somehow involves the headlights when using the turn signal (why) so it was harder to figure out.
Inquiring minds want to know, you mentioned a code for turn signal open circuit. Did you clear it, or will it clear itself with the problem repaired? I really should know this, but I do not.
Ah yes, KISS (Keep It Simple, Stupid!) That was something I used to teach programmers and operators back in the day, along with RTFM and Illegitimii nil Carborundum.
July 2024 bless u mechanic guy for telling me about the bulbs under the hood I had replaced the left rear burnt bulb but the left hand turn signal would still be on on the dash took under hood bulb left to canafian tire talked to 3 mechanics sitting there and said is there a problem with this bulb from 4 ft away they all said no and said it could be the corral thingy around the steering wheel so I thought for 8.00 ill get new bulb snd guess what when I replaced the "good bulb " the left signal worked properly. CANADIAN TIRE FOOLS
This is my second channel...Check out the Primary Channel Here: Airbag Warning Diag and More! Hyundai Elantra 1.8! ua-cam.com/video/D_yZ8p1AqMw/v-deo.html
That's really funny because I actually called it. I said out loud to myself I wish you would just change the damn bulb I know that's the problem. Lol
Turns the bulb is burned out warning meant you needed new bulbs, you done it again ray that was amazing. What a turn of events.
Dual filament bulbs will sometimes give that symptom when the circuit gets completed via the alternate path. Marker light completes circuit through the turn signal circuit, causing the turn signal indicator on the dash to light solid.
My daughter has had a 2012 Elantra since 2016. The turn signal lights (both front and rear) have given her trouble for at least 5 of the 8 years that she has owned it. When the front one had the same symptom as the car in this video, it was the housing connector prong (it didn't protrude enough for a good connection). When the rear one had issues (annually), it was the fact that the factory harness connection heated up so much that the plastic changed color (apparently, this is very common issue with these vehicles--loose connection-->arcing-->heat, etc.). The excess heat would severely diminish the bulb life.
Good job, Ray. Thanks for the video.
Hello Ray! This video brought back memories of working on English designed electrical systems. Lucas Electric, The Prince of Darkness! But it was good training for solving electrical problems in all vehicles. Looking for bad filaments in bulbs was an everyday thing. One thing I noted was using a magnifying glass to examine filaments for wear. Since bulbs were pretty cheap, if you found one out and noticed filament wear, you replaced almost all bulbs. Nine times out of ten you'd find that the other bulbs were dark, filaments had lots of shiny spots (you could see that easily on halogen headlamps) and you knew they were going to fail soon. It was preventive maintenance and you wouldn't have to worry about replacing any bulb for years! Nowadays the great LED has come to the rescue! So your LED headlamp can go out, and it turns out the problem is not the LED headlamp but a "body control" module that costs a thousand dollars! Now that's what I call real progress! 🤣🤣🤣 And here comes CAN bus addressable LED lamps. What could possibly go wrong?
Thanks for the follow-up Ray!
And this video has a really good message: do not make things overcomplicated
90% of the time if you have a fast flashing light when using blinker, then you have a bad bulb somewhere
Check the blinker fluid😂
@@michaelpressman7203 lol
@@michaelpressman7203and the muffler bearings! Them muffler bearings get lubricant from the spark plug fluid!
100% off the time u have a blown bulb everytime
@@jimmyo8312 everfy once in a while it is an electrical issue, not often. i have came across that personally
Auto electrical problems can be a real headache. I appreciate your thorough explanations, as I can apply them to my own vehicles. Thank you!
you probably already know this ray, but a rapid flash usually means 'under-current' in a signal circuit. (i.e and open circuit bulb). people who use LED bulbs have to simulate the current draw or modern flash circuits complain thinking the bulb is gone.
That's why you use a so called electronic flasher. Those have timer circuits that don't care about a load or lack thereof.
2:14 I almost turned my computer upside down LOL
I got nostalgic for the Adam West Batman show.
@@MonkeyJedi99 "Nothing to see here Citizen. Go back inside your home" -Batman.
Had a Wells Fargo ATM issue with the back service screen was working in service mode but giving random responsive in Bank mode. Previous tech order a new back screen, but he was off next day and call giving to me. Replaced screen and my side was OK but bank side issue remained. The manufacturer said order another screen. But I thought was nuts. Checked resistances on cables and found theubs cable week. Replaced cables with a heavier printer cable to service screen. Issue resolved. Just do not over think the root cause. Bulbs can go out for any reason..great video...thanks
Ray the way the turn lights are working tell you what is wrong
1. the fast blinking says that the turn lights are bad
2. the fact that the lights on dash do not blink when the runners are on tells you that the runners are not working correctly
3. the facts that the blinkers are working normally on the out side with 1,2 it means that the runner light in one of the turn lights is not working
4. by switching on the hazard lights you can see that only the driver side running light in the turn light is working
this is my take
The fast flash is due to low resistance in the line. Both the front and rear are wired together, and, depending on the year of the vehicle, either the blinking is controlled by the BCM or the blinker relay. If it is controlled by the BCM, then when the BCM detects a resistance on the line that is lower than 50 ohms, it will perform a rapid flash. If it is controlled by the flasher relay, then the lower the resistance on the line, the faster the flash. A low resistance usually indicates a failed bulb.
Interesting enough, if both bulbs on one side fail and the blinking is controlled by the flasher relay, then you'll end up with a constant on light (and also a buzzing sound from the flasher relay cycling fast). In BCM-controlled vehicles, you get the same rapid flash as you do when one is out.
You'll discover this quickly if you try to convert the lights from standard incandescent bulbs to LED bulbs, as LED bulbs have a lower resistance. In my 1999 Ford F-150, I found it was controlled by the flasher relay. I had to put a 50-ohm heat-sinked resistor across hot and ground to provide resistance on the line so it will blink normally. In my 2012 Ford F-150, I discovered that the blink is simulated by the BCM (as well as the "clicking" sound of a relay). In that case, I had to take a computer and go into the BCM directly (using a program called Forscan though a USB OBD2 adapter) and change a value in the configuration data to turn off monitoring for failed bulbs.
So the blinker fluid wasn't the problem
next time replace blinker fluid too
Which side?
Well if you’re going to change headlamp fluid then yeah
Top up the tail light fluid also. Many people don't know this because there are alot of cars with no brake lights. KISS and top off your light fluids.
@@criticaltemperature3343 The supply chain for such fluids particularly turn signal ‘blinker’ fluid has broken here in Northern California….
Love to see the shop being busy busy! 🙏🙏🙏 Hope to see some calmer times for the new deep jeep restoration.
Nicely done Ray! Your diagnostic approach is top shelf!!
That's always been my first thing to check w/rapid flashing - a bad filament will almost always show that symptom.
What a little lightbulb can do
That is how I test them. Give them a tap. A wrong part number bulb will cause blinkage troubles also. People think that if it fits it works. Not always.
I had the same problem twice on 2 different carts. The first one was the same as yours, one of the filaments had broken and caused an open circuit. The second one was different. Someone at some time earlier had replaced the rear bulb with a 2 filament bulb, forcing it into the socket, and causing all kinds of issues with the dash indicators and fast flashing although the bulbs worked properly. When I first saw your video I immediately told myself check all of the bulbs before going too deeply into it.
Thanks Ray, A 2003 Durango was fine earlier, than fast flash later, Ill look for that bad light, It may fit the problem.
I was going to suggest checking all the bulbs in the previous video. My ex had a Kia Forte 5 door. Pretty much the same car except a five-door. I replaced all the exterior lights with LED bulbs. Didn't notice until I drove it that evening that every time I hit the brakes or signaled, the whole center stack would light up and the directional indicators in the cluster with dim. Wound up removing just two of the combination brake/tail light LED bulbs and replace them with regular incandescent bulbs. All was well afterwards.
Used to run into this a lot on older cars and trailer dual filament bulbs. One filament breaks, falls across the other filament and then back feeds the other circuit.
Ray, I use only one s in the KISS METHOD. I worked with people who would transpose the S’s.
Same thing with my Suzuki Swift 2000. Replace all the bulbs when you have weird symptoms like that. "Old Good bulb" can fail anytime. Good job Ray. From North, Québec!
Excellent troubleshooting Ray. It's never the obvious when it comes to a visual inspection so it was gud you noticed the loose filament in the bulb. I have a habit of gently shaking the bulbs since I got a defective one from Walmart and had me stumped after replacing it. It took a second untill with frustration I discovered the loose broken filament. I also had one with the light sockets wire was broken at the socket and the visual and ohm test gave no visible broken wires and ohmed out at 0 ohms. It was when I retested the resistance I had changed the tension on the wire did I discover the broken wire to the connector in the socket at the base
Glad you found the problem. Just the way I am, but if I already had those rear light fixtures out, I would have just gone ahead and replaced those too. I mean, they might last for years, or being the same age as the front bulbs, they might go poof next week.
Yes! I also have been unwell...
Saw pt 1. Was fustrated - mentally encouraging you to check both bulbs (lamps) then the ground connections. They always corrode...
Waaaaaay back early '80's my father, life long ford tech, told me my company van with 'indicator problems' (I'd checked the bulbs (lamps)) had a bad ground. Same sort of plug and twist system as the vehicle here.
'I would have liked' you clean and adjust all the fittings as you did on the L front but of course, you are on a fixed rate..
Next time eh?
ALWAYS check the lamps and grounds on these systems🫠
❤ your work & channel man
lol...thank you. Found out my replacement bulb was also broke, thanks to this video, after replacing the socket and checking fuses (and losing my fuse puller) even though it looked good. K.I.S.S.
Hi Ray, so even you have forgotten things witch were common before scantools, like that rapid flash blinker thing, so dont trust only that computer, oldfashion way is still needed, like mechanical fails too. Dont forget what you have learned over years, just ad these new things on it.
Had to practically disassemble the entire front end of my Sport Utility Mini Van (TM) just to change the headlight bulbs. Hi again Al Gor-Rhythm.
Finally,. *Congratulations* on reaching the 100,000 subscribers on this Channel Ray. 🥳🥳 I hope your Play Button is on the way. 👍
I recently had a rear brake bulb jump from brake filament to tail light filament turning on the market lights when the brakes were applied. Also the cruise control didn't work when lights were on lol
Lucky I found this post. Wish it had come up in the primary channel. Guess that means I have to subscribe to this channel as well. As usual, nice work Ray.
I was giving my patrol car an equipment check before duty, and ' when the turn signals were activated, the dash lights and headlights would flash in sequence. Having our garage check it, the problem was a burnt out side marker bulb. Amazing what a disruption of circuits do to todays ' vehicle systems.
Well looky there, Ray was using his crain brainium the way it was supposed to be used. Deductive reasoning.
GM does that to tell you what is out! i forget what way! if fast flash is either front or back again I forget solid other
Good video ray! Bulbs are a secondary thought but easiest to check. Its rare that bulbs is the root of the problem but you did your due dilligence and it tirmed out great again!!! Thanks ray!! P.s. hello to wife unit and dave and jesus! All you guys are great and good to see you each day!!!
The filaments look to be crystallized. That is a sign of near failure. Since the right side failed, it would be prudent to go and do all the bulbs.
Not a mechanic here. Just a driver who tries to DIY what I can. I didn't understand what was so complicated in the first video on this issue, but what do I know. Maybe things have become a whole lot more complicated over the years.
I haven't had an issue with a bad bulb for 30 yrs or more, but back then we knew that the rapid flashing turn signal meant that we had a bad bulb. It may have taken a bit of time to chase down which was bad, but we ended up finding it and fixing it.
I like watching the troubleshooting steps and listening to the chatter, but I think this was overcomplicated.
I agree, 1157 was the bulb of choice back with my old cars. Fast blink meant bad bulb. Simple dyi
seems like he got too tired and unable to think simple on the previous video
The strangest lighting situation I've ever seen was on my own car. One night I was pulling into my garage after turning the lights off. When I stepped on the brakes, the front parking lights turned on. I checked all the bulbs and they all appeared fine. I thought it might be a wiring problem. My buddy noticed that one taillight bulb was in "bright" mode when the lights were on, but the brakes were not. One filament in the dual bulb, 1157, had broken and was touching the other filament. When either system was on both filaments lit up. When the brakes were on, the power would back feed into the parking light circuit. Never saw that situation again.
fast flashing causes me to first check for a bad bulb, which is usually the cause. been driving cars with those types of bulbs since 1965
Ugh, why isn't this on the main channel?
Many comments from previous videos were ragging on Ray about the late follow-up 😅
PS for those with crappy near sight vision... To test the bulb filament, grab your cheap harbor freight multimeter, and set it to ohms to test the continuity of that filament
Good alternative to banging the bulb to see that wire wiggle inside that bulb?
Thumbs up if this is a good alternative besides just swapping with a good known 💡
can i ask a silly question, when you had the rear lights apart why wouldnt you automatically replace the bulbs? I mean its been a while bu those things should cost a buck or 2and you already had the labour into them
If it's not broke, don't need to replace it?
I've got vehicles 2002 - 1989 with original bulbs 😅
if she burnt one out maybe they are one of those weirdos that actually use their blinkers@@ricebike
The times I see combined tail and brake lights installed the wrong way round makes me chuckle
As the late, great , Paul Harvey would say ,( And that's the rest of the story) Thanks Ray for the update
that's why you always check bulbs first.....
Fantastic video Ray.. It would have taken me ages to discovery that issue.
Any time I had a bad bulb I would replace all of them assuming the similar age and wearing except for backups that never seemed to fail. Why repeat the work again in the near future when a few more bucks just refreshes it?
always, replace in pairs. headlites, blinkers, markers, never just one at a time...cus one fails the other will next week
Check the bulbs first before butchering the wires because sometimes its all it needs
the reason they still use incandescent bulbs in airplanes. after a crash, they look at the bulbs to see which ones are broken, hit a cold bulb hard enough, the filament will fall off or break, but a hot one will flap around and not break.
I just change my turn signal fluid a/k/a blinker fluid to forestall trouble.
1100 series has metal socket ground. 1156 = HD single element, 1157 = HD dual element
Oh ya always clean incandescent bulbs when you install them, otherwise they overheat and burn out fast. 😮
Sure wish my grandson's ford fusion was that easy. A guy flipped me off when I turned right at a corner. Thought a bulb was out. Turned out to be a bad "smart power block"". Part alone was $800! The whole fuse block had to be changed out. Total for a bad turn signal was over a grand.
This car is the first one I've seen with dual filament bulbs for indicators. All cars I've driven so far only have single filament bulbs. Only the brake lights have dual filament bulbs (one for brake light, the other for presence light).
Really? I seen them on Ford, GM, Chrysler, Honda, Nissan, and Toyota
@@ricebike I don't know if European standards are the same as in the US. I've had a Ford Escort Mark II, Ford Escort Mark III, Nissan Primera, Ford Focus and none of them had dual filament bulbs except for the brake and presence lights.
Edit: Spelling.
Hmm speculation time. The broken filament might have been bridging the two circuits. That would cause the rapid flash (assuming an old style flasher unit, excessive load would cause the flasher to heat quicker than planned, like with large trailes with more then two additional turn indicators on passenger cars without a trailer grade flasher unit) as well as the constant on condition
Modern flasher units are micro controlled now, the rapid flash is usually done by a current sensor that is out of range (whether over or under i don't think matters). heater controlled flashers haven't been used for about 20 years afaik.
@@TwoWheeledPotato true-ish. My sisters 2018 Prius has micro controled turn and hazard, but my boss's 2022 CRV has the thermal for the turn and micro for the hazard. Hazzard is run through the cars computers, and will be activated automatically if in a crash or a serious fault occurs. I'd say it depends on the manufacturer and trim level as what you get, but most do tend to get the micro controlled ones now. Though vehicle's setup for large trailer towing seem to only have the thermal flasher units.
I'm curious as to why the indicator lamps are dual filament. I've only seen them in combined stop/tail lamps.
That's the exact reason I put new led bulbs all round my 2021 Silverado I can't stand filament bulbs
Another awesome video about a good repair.
You don’t bang on the filament. You get an ohm meter and check for continuity.
you ought to try my volvo, a single pin to remove and the headlight unit comes out, 10 second max. ( though the marker light bulb is buried so deep in the headlight it took me 30 minutes to replace)
Surprised there are still brass base bulbs being used
I'm a big fan of the KISS principal 😁
I was waiting for this video. Finally :)
♪♫ What a difference a lamp makes ♫♪
On old cars with (Thomas Edison) bulbs like those a fast flashing indicator is pretty much always indicative of a bad bulb or loose bulb contact connection !
that is very sensitive for resistance what if they use a LED ? will that send a different resistance
to the ecd causing a similar issue? great find, way to go!
yes it will do the same unless you can code the module to ignore the low current. another option is to add load resistor to simulate incandescent bulb
Changed a few brake light switches, (recall missed).
Signal markers as in indicators
This really happen on my 74 Nova
Hi Ray, like your videos. Off topic comment, look out for a screw type workshop compressor, quieter and more efficient.Regards from UK.
Aww I was hoping it was a cheap chinesium LED bulbs in the back markers.
Sometimes the fault is just that simple we'll done ray
My car if a main beam bulb goes the high beam is switched on on that side on a lower duty cycle so as not to dazzle which can lead you to think there is a wiring fault but there isn’t
On a 2016 Elantra, replaced all front and rear dual filament lamps (park and turn function) due to age and flash rate on left turn signal. Initially problems solved. After a short time, left turn signal again flashed rapidly. Checked grounds to be ok on headlamp master connector. Removed lamp again and cleaned the internal and external park and turn socket contacts. Reinstalled, work correctly and again after a brief time flashed rapidly. Removed everything one more time and realized that the internal socket contact had very little tension on lamp base(ground). Bent contact inward and added a small rubber shim underneath to maintain solid contact. Problem solved. These Park and turn socket contact are very flimsy with the internal ground the worst of the 3 contacts.
Also remember the mirror turn signal lights which should be LED can cause the problem as well
Two words - Occam's Razor. I am really surprised with your superior diagnostic ability that you didn't check the bulbs first. It's not a criticism, just saying...
K.I.S.S. best saying ever.😅
Just think how many failed bulbs there would be if people actually used the signals as intended. Also how many brake lights would function.
I had a simular problem where et tuen signals would worh properly when holding them on buy not actually puting them fully. but ounce they started to flash rapidly I had to stop the encine and restart. then they would be OK for a while. Turns out thar at the base of the Right Front Signal Bulb (Not 1157) the wire conts appeared to be BURNT/Over Heated. Replaces the Bulb and a year and a halfs frustration with the directionals dissapeared. but I still mostly hold the directional handle and not engauge it fully.
Very very common problem with 1157 bulbs.
Why is there a blinking amber light on the lower right side below the arrow light on the dash
Thing is, if the car was simpler, the cause of fast flash is obvious. In this case, there must be a computer in between the turn signal stalk and the light bulb that somehow involves the headlights when using the turn signal (why) so it was harder to figure out.
I have a question what precautions do you need to make before you try to remove the clock spring on an older 2007 rav4
two in one day a double click i missed the second one the first time
Thanks Ray
Good job. Was wondering about it
Inquiring minds want to know, you mentioned a code for turn signal open circuit. Did you clear it, or will it clear itself with the problem repaired? I really should know this, but I do not.
Ah yes, KISS (Keep It Simple, Stupid!) That was something I used to teach programmers and operators back in the day, along with RTFM and Illegitimii nil Carborundum.
Hooray for algorithms!
That's your old standard 1157A bulbs.
Why would the turn signal have dual filament?
Dang my guess on the last one was an aftermarket LED bulb somewhere on the car
Observation; running bulbs get hot. This is normular. People grabbing hot bulbs is not normular. Hmmm. 😅
very helpful thank you
July 2024 bless u mechanic guy for telling me about the bulbs under the hood I had replaced the left rear burnt bulb but the left hand turn signal would still be on on the dash took under hood bulb left to canafian tire talked to 3 mechanics sitting there and said is there a problem with this bulb from 4 ft away they all said no and said it could be the corral thingy around the steering wheel so I thought for 8.00 ill get new bulb snd guess what when I replaced the "good bulb " the left signal worked properly. CANADIAN TIRE FOOLS
Lol I kind of figured it was a bulb I've seen it before 😂
Great episode.
Is kinda load outside. Why not just pull the doors down?