Hey Ray from a 70 year old who has beat on ball joints, snatched on Pittman arms and been drenched in ATF, oil, gear lube as well as others I find you smart, very entertaining, clever and really funny. I love you the way you are and the way you do things is very interesting. Keep up the good work and keep being an example to mechanics everywhere that honesty, integrity and doing work the right way. Thank you!
And always have a great sense of humor . That super power is needed to fight of Karen’s and Kevin’s , both species that have no mechanical aptitude or social skills , unless it involves too many energy drinks and they cannot find a bathroom. So that is always someone else’s fault . There is nothing you can say that will calm them down , that is until we get an open season and a elephant rifle LOL .
I said similar in the part one video. I'm still young at 58-years-old, but I've done most of my own mechanical work since childhood, mainly because my father was a deisel fitter/mechanic and I kind of learned through osmosis. He'd always tell me I knew enough to be dangerous... He would be 77 in August if he was still around. Ray is methodical. I am a jigsaw puzzle mechanic. I bag and label my nuts and bolts because I KNOW I'll forget where some are supposed to go. I also have that OCD thing where EVERY part removed must be fastidiously clean before it goes back in.
@@BradGryphonn I used to have trouble spelling diesel. Until I saw the word as die-sel. It has the word die in it. I have to do this with many words that aren't spelled logically!
Exactly. I like his vids but he completely hacked this job. Especially using pliers on the strut instead of compressing it more. Now the plier marks are going to damage the seal. They even make a socket tool that spreads the knuckle where the bolt goes through. It cost like $3. Wouldnt need to be hammering on the knuckle like that. Or like u said a chielse or big screw driver w a couple wacks to spread it a bit more. Idk why he chose to beat the piss out of it w an air hammer instead of jus spreading it to make it much easier. He never reads comments so hell most likely do this every time instead of doing it right
He knows that he just didn't make an extra trip to go get one to spread it. I did hundreds of these disassembles and sometimes it's just go for it if it will go. Other times, you're wanting to do the extra and having that thought. I've done them in the dealer, the tire store, the carport, the gravel. Out in the woods, or in a driveway. You improvise. Once you learn many ways, you can do what seems good enough and not do more. It still gets done and it's ok.
@@jacksmith2315 he reads the comments and he also responds as he can.. but being a working man he ain't gonna have time to hit every single little comment..
I did a complete front end rebuild at home, I deliberately bought a new coil strut assembly already assembled because "I scared" of compressing the springs. But still, I have ten fingers and never had a flying car part hit me yet. I understand your "scares me everytime" comment, that is the best way to not cut corners and you also have good equipment.
I have thoroughly enjoyed and learned from your videos. You are patient, have great ingenuity, and good skills. And, the fact that you verbalize everything so well without using profanity is the major reason I enjoy watching and learning. Thank you! I am a simple, farm shade-tree mechanic doing what I have to do, and I learn a great deal from you. Thank you again!
Having done this over and over again, I sure can appreciate every step you took. I just love watching your content and even pick up great advice across the board. Being a one-man shop on car repairs over here, I know what this feels like. Man kudos from across the pond (Southern Black Forest in Germany).
Wow, just so much going on in my life I just could not miss the super secret Hidden video LOL. Hope your having a fantastic day Ray and keep the content coming 👍
Why didn't you compress the spring a little more when putting the strut back in the assembly? It seems to me that would have made it easier to secure the plate on top without having to struggle with 2 pairs of pliers!
If you've ever seen a spring under full compression slip the jaws you'd know why. It's one of those things that, if you manage to walk away from it under your own power, you never let it happen again. Plenty of guys don't walk away from it At. All.
@@blucy10 yup. One of the most dangerous pieces of equipment in the shop. Anything that cages or compresses a spring like that is one little slip, one mechanical failure from disaster. It may not even be the mechanics fault. Saw a guy get hit in the chest with a brake chamber spring from a semi. The cage broke. He left work in a bag.
Would compressing the springs more help with the application of the nut on top of the strut rather than struggling with the sketchy floor jack and pliers?
@@gavincarstens6497 hes def too scared to compress it more. With that multi $1000 machine, there's no reason he shouldnt have. Now those plier marks are going to trash the seal. Should have used through sockets so you can have the socket on the nut and an allen to hold the piston from spinning. Or even just use a wrench so can hold the piston with and allen. Also, instead of beating on the knuckle like that, all he had to do was spread the back a little n the strut would slide in n out super easy. They make a socket the has and oval shape coming out the tip so you put it in the back of the knuckle long way up, turn 90° so it spreads the knuckle. Or just use a chisle, big screw driver, or pry bar. I usually like his vids n think hes a good tech, but he hacked this one pretty bad.
Ray gave some great advice for those concerned over the amount of money they're spending on gasoline. Keep your foot off the pedal. When I used to run around in a street rod, I could literally watch the fuel gauge move when I'd get on it. I think the fuel economy could have been measured in gallons per mile!
I had a 2001 Sentra (1.7). The best ever I go was 33MPG, usually 30. I switched to a LEAF (EV with 80M range) in 2017 and started using the power use dots to get the most range. I rented a Sentra (2.0) for a long trip. I got 50 MPG by driving it gently. (I did not really think the MPG meter was correct until I filled the tank before turn in 😯. Amazing how much less I used driving gentle)
@@steveurbach3093 There's a bit to be said for having more power. It encourages gentler driving. I drive a 115hp 1.0 3cyl turbo. If I'm "driving enthusiastically" it drops from 50 mpg (uk gallons) to around 28. And it's not like I'm going anywhere quickly. I got better out of a 3.0 litre turbo diesel with 204hp.
I find the whole thing closer to reality is far as automotive repairs I like some of these car shows that are more like advertisements and they just throw everything together and let's say half an hour and I'm like no you left a lot of key mechanical information out people are going to get into a world or hurt if they do it the way you did thinking about the TV show have a great day
For a lot of the last 20 years I was full sketchy at removing Datsun strut tops. I would just lay strut on ground, stand on spring with left foot, and rattle the top nut off. Parts would go flying, but it was quick.
Thanks for providing another satisfying example of how an honest auto tech operates. Thanks again from Niceville for another set of smiles, plus an appreciation of witnessing an expert in action. You might consider creating another sticker: "Honesty, integrity, and humor make a Good Worker" Maybe just job satisfaction consists of... must include... Or the heck with all of that. Each of knows in which category of integrity we lie. If not, we're just lying to ourself because everyone else already knows...
The main thing is one has to be honest with oneself then you can truly be honest with the world I find it's a lot easier path to follow have a great day
I wanted to thank you. After watching a bunch of your videos, I got the courage to replace my slightly cracked intake (and the 700 things that bolt onto it). I could understand that if I was having a problem with a step, it wasn't because I was a dumbass-I just wasn't approaching it the right way or I wasn't using the right tool. And if not everything goes right the first time for a pro, I shouldn't expect it to be any different for me. As a bonus, I got to see the top of the valve train when I replaced the valve cover gaskets (the first time the covers have been off in the 23 years I've had the car. Everything looked really clean with only a tiny trace of wear (shameless plug for running Mobil 1 the whole time I've had the car). I was a little concerned over what I'd find, given the number of times you pulled a valve cover and the valve train looked like it was made of dark mahogany.
Don't bother with the control arm, you can pry the control arm down far enough to allow the strut to slip out of the knuckle. Trick is to drive the knuckle down as far as it'll go, pry down on the control arm preferably with a control arm/pry bar tool, and turn the wheel to full lock. It'll come right out. Also driving a small chisel where the strut bolt tightens the strut to the knuckle, it will help you slide the strut in and out much easier.
Usually the price difference between the parts/labor to fix a noisy strut and a ready strut assembly isn't worth the hassle of compressing the strut to change the bearing only to keep the old strut and spring.
Great video. I just had to have this done to my wife's 2015 Rogue for clunking when turning. Nissan has a TSB for this and has updated the parts. Luckily our extended warranty covered it.
Using your impact to remove & install that on the strut causes the shaft to spin in the strut, heating the seals & leak. The shaft centre has a place for an Allen wrench in the centre to stop it from spinning. There’s a proper wrench/socket to do this
I was just going to say the same thing. Thanks for saving me the typing. The way I do that is to simply hold in place with a big Allen wrench, and break the nut loose with a simple box wrench. It saves on wear for the strut seals.
Ya he pretty much butchered this whole job. He should have spread the back of the knuckle where the bolt goes through instead of beating on the knuckle w the air hammer. They make a socket that has a tip sticking out oval shaped so you slide it in long ways up, turn the ratchet 90° and it spreads the knuckle so the strut comes out and goes in wo beating on anything. Or could use a chisle or big screw driver to spread it. Also, instead of using pliers to hold the piston while the strut was in the spring compressor, all he had to do was compress the spring more and everything would have fit together no problem. No pulling on the piston w one set of pliers and holding it with another, thats just going to damage the seal from the plier marks. They also make through socket sets. The sockets are hollow and the ratchet holds the socket on the outside so you can put a tool through the middle to hold the piston from spinning. I got mine from cornwell like 10 yrs ago. Harbor freight has them as well. Gesr wrench does too. For someone working in a shop, they are a must have for stuff like this. Or even something the threads are too long for a deep socket, the through sockets slip right over everything. Man...if this was my car and i seen this vid, id flip the f*uck out. I usually love his vids/hes usually a pretty good tech, but he hacked this one pretty bad.
Having done this job many times. Compressing spring to max makes fitting of damper etc so much easier. When l Donne this l didn’t have the luxury of a machine to compress the spring for me.Plus a bit of lub is a good idear when replacing damper into wish bone. You have a great day 👍😃🇬🇷 Ps:- great vid secret vid.
You younger guys are so good at this because you haven't saturated your hadnuff level yet, although I'm sure it seems like it. I admire your attitude, thanks for teaching us.
You reminded me of a motorcycle I had trouble with. It went through tires too fast, and used an awful lot of gasoline. Somebody told me that the problem was in my helmet. I bought another one, but that didn't fix the problem.
Tip: Make note of the Top Hat, Spring End, Seat positions before removing. On some vehicles, there's too much spring tension to twist to correct position once reassembled.
Thanks for the refresh. Ive never actually Re-used cheapo struts like that when the bearing went.I just bought a whole new complete loaded strut unit and threw out that 1/2 worn out stuff. I know you gotta make the customer happy and save $$ to make $$ so yeah whatever . (No dis Ray, you do as you do, your all good ! ) Off topic...suspension parts, Usually when replacing my own stuff, I try and find an Alt# Heavy Duty version part, matched from manufacturer. Like the little known Alt# Chrysler town and country 4X4 suspension parts, that bolt right in to 2wd T&C setups, for Uber Urban pothole resistance. "Stock" Turbo optional setups for these too 🤣But its ALL Alt listed and shoved in the US forestry system vehicle specs. And I guess only available to Uncle sam forestry guys for original order of the vehicles.? (Kinda same like police only models) Anyway , point is you never know what parts are available unless you check, upgrades are sometimes super easy, and actually (sorta)OEM approved (for a different model) . Cheap ,insurance if you wrench yourself, or know a guy named Ray and break shit all the time cause you drive like his coworker, all 0-100 like that..
I'm so jealous. I did my daughters 16yo Focus for a broken spring. I live in Ontario. Bloody nightmare, this witch was totally seized in the hub. 2 hrs heat and banging and then it took two of us to do the reinstall ( I used a complete replacement) as I couldn't get the tube aligned to the hub. Total 4hrs. +. Then you do the whole thing in half an hour. I'm going for a coffee and a sulk
The suspension springs and struts take some hammering on the roads in UK holes in roads everywhere I always put better springs on just think how much the top bearing plate takes your suspension is moving constantly ray we always use new nuts and bolts when we change anything and always put new nuts on ball joints also I have seen garages using the old split pin dangerous you are a good mechanic you know what your doing well done ✌ noticed you never sprayed that drive shaft with some maintenance spray it was really rusty
Hey Ray - I'm not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination but a question...on the installation of the strut into the spring, would it be easier to compress the spring a bit more before trying to secure the top plate/nut? You had to release some pressure when removing the parts so there is additional room to compress. Again, just an observation from someone who doesn't even pretend to be an auto mechanic. By the way, LOVE the vids!!
Safety! It is less dangerous to expand the strut than to compress the spring. A loaded spring is a lot of potential energy that, released accidentally, can cause oodles (professional term) of damage. Other than that the only issue I saw was that he didn't say 'click' when the struts were seated!
Yes I absolutely agree, also you should never use a pair of grips to hold a strut shaft because it will score the surface and inevitably tear at the rubber seal as it compresses and that will cause the strut to leak. I wouldn't be very happy if that was my car!
@@PaineK Can't argue with that, but from my limited experience, compressing the spring another couple of inches would have accomplished the job safely while saving time and effort. The strut spring clamp is safe and effective. Adding a floor jack to the mix added an unstable variable/risk. Trying to immobilize the shock while maintaining the strut's smoothness appears to be a pita.
@@budboggy4699 I did some limited research into the dangers of strut spring compression. It's very dangerous. Two inches of additional compression on that spring would have been a LOT of stored energy. For those guys working on these things, please take ALL the safety steps you feel appropriate.
Thank you for being a great, respectable, hard working mechanic. Don't see that around where I live. Appreciate the videos. Ray reminds me of Mike Rowe. Swear they could be brothers.
I didn't think about that until you mentioned it but yeah does remind me of Mike Rowe followed dirty jobs for years just recently started following Ray
love the way you just pulled the ABS sensor, In the UK that sensor even if it was plastic would be so rusted in that removing the ABS pump and passing that around the strut with the wire still attached would have been a better option that trying to get a UK sensor out! LOL Great video Ray and good to hear the Peter in the back ground xx
So true! In Canada, I am scared to attempt to remove a speed sensor for a shortcut! With the salt & Brine,,, your using a left hand thread drill bit, lots of lube, patience & a new sensor ! So much for the “ short cut!” LOL, good to see your still around!
I envy that spring press. It's a lot better than the old spring compressor hooks on threaded rod I've been forced to wrestle with as the spring and strut lay on the floor trying to escape and break anything in the spring's path.
I agree with @John Goodman, but one thing I used due to working alone, was ratchet straps. You would be amazed how many hands those things make up for. When did they change the coil over clamps? Used to, we had a clamp set to compress the coil over on the vehicle, removes a great deal of danger and work.
I'm glad I watched the Super Secret Hidden Video. I admit I never knew struts very well. when you took them apart to replace those upper parts, I was wondering how the strut was located in the knuckle and how far it went in. As I watched you install, I saw you locate the aligning lug and then saw the other one which indicates how far in it goes. Thanks again for another informative video! And I can see also why an alignment is necessary. The upper mounting studs go in oblong holes, which means a change in the alignment, and I'm sure the other changes also affect the alignment. Thanks!!
Another great job. I prefer Quick Struts because everything is replaced, including a new spring. My Dodge Caravan was sagging in the front and back after 10 years. 2 new front Quick struts and 2 new rear springs fixed all that.
Love how the bolt length changed lol 😆 love your videos so when are you going to do a video working on your vehicle at home with the wife and son helping you 😀 😊
super secret hidden video...but showed up on my news feed lol...I'm guessing the All Mighty UA-cams changed how things work again, breaking everything that once was...again?
It wasn't until the "if you're worried about gas" conversation that I realized I had seen this before, and then I looked at the comments to see 5 months ago, but the video says 56 minutes ago that it was posted. Weird.
Watching you pull apart that rust free front end makes me jealous. I currently have the entire front suspension of my 07 Xterra torn apart in my garage since essentially everything was dead or dying from mileage. (And I mean everything. Including the wheel bearings. It was no longer safe to drive.) So much sawzall action. The lower control arm bolts were cut, the lower shock bolts, the sway bar, etc etc. That's fine though since it's all being upgraded to Nissan Titan components. That said, I learned something important during this project. Screw all other sawzall blades, go with the Diablo blades with the Tungsten Carbide. It'll chew through the suspension bolts like butter without dulling.
Question are your channel lock piers clamping on to the chrome surface of the strut? If so they make one with plastic lined jaws! 6V-0006 Pliers used by caterpillar have them!
I would've either compressed spring a tad bit more .....or just used a pair of vice grips to hold shaft freeing up both hands ....plus I've always found it better to remove the tie rod bolt to remove the axle ...
love the way you messed with the call guys, i used to give the phone to my toddlers they loved it and got pretty good at dragging them along so many angry scammers...lol
I always keep old pieces of bicycle inner tube rubber handy, to wrap around parts like that before gripping onto the rubber, for precisely that reason. Rubber gets a better grip, and doesn't scar the metal.
Hey Ray. I can't remember who0 makes it, but there is an extension tool that screws on the shock which makes it easier to install the shock and bearing plate. I believe those tools come in a kit for the various sizes of shock shafts and threads.
Hi Ken, we use the one from Hazet. Part number: 4912-5- fits all Euro asian cars where u have ti widen the hole to ge the shock out with ease. u are welcome
@@andrealt9261 Thank you. I couldn't think of the name, but I have seen Hazet. The ones I used were from BMW. I think that I was the only tech. that had a set in the shop.
Never had mich luck just replacing the bearing plate. Usually in a year or so the strut gives out. Factoring in labor it comes to a wash almost just getting a quick strut.
I'm hoping to begin replacing my Kia Sportage front preloaded struts tomorrow. I replaced the sway bar links, then the cross arms, all in hope of eliminating a bumpy, clunky noise. It seems to have gotten worse, so I am assuming it's that top bushing and parts that go between the strut and the body. They were my first guess, but I thought I could get away with doing some less expensive parts. Wrong.
All cars I've worked on you don't actually need to remove the ball joint. Just turn the steering to remove the axle and you got enough room to go down. Hope this helps you out!
I am surprised with all your snap-on tools, you don't have the coupler for your air hammer...that spring they give you with the tool always found a way to spit out the bit...it was worth every penny
You are working very hard,and all the stuff you have been trough is a possible cause that you feel a bit tired and under the weather. Take good care of yourself buddy.
I’ve not ever seen that type of strut where the bottom of the strut mounts where you had to take it out and install it. What a pain in the ass. You do a great job and I love all your videos. Don’t feel bad about any negative comments. There’s also s jerk out there somewhere.
why not recompress the spring, i have changed these on my volvos, with even sketchier spring compressors, and if the spring is short enough, its easy to fit the new bearing plate
Hey Ray, saying "Click" as if you are a torque wrench brought back a bad memory of mine. I had my wife's oil pan replaced shortly after buying it (1997 Camaro RD 30th Anniversary Edition) because the pan was all dented up. I also had the tranny serviced at the same time. Well, I didn't check their work right after and was having my wife take the car to Jiffy Lube for oil changes and after a year and a month later (after the warranty ran out) I noticed both pans were leaking fluid. They weren't leaking before. I decided to check the torque on the bolts holding the pans and discovered that they all were way to tight which in turn warped the bolt holes on both pans which told me they didn't use a torque wrench at all and most likely used an impact drill to put it all back for and most likely saying "click" every time they put the bolts in without a torque wrench. Makes me mad as hell when mechanics don't use torque wrenches.
Seems like with all of the extra labor to replace the mounts, it would have been a similar cost to just replace the whole strut assembly. With the mounts being worn that much, the strut can't be far from needing replacement too. False economy in my opinion.
Love the super secret video :) I never did suspension but did coilovers on my 2015 WRX. My stepbrother and I worked on it. For the top mount portion had used a deep socket with vice pliers on that and then turned the center with an extension with socket in center. We turned the center portion while holding the nut in place with deep socket. Tried using the ratchet strap but the shaft would just spin. If we were doing this again I would rather hold the center shaft portion and then turn the deep socket turning the nut. I think either was is fine. The suspension is still working after a few hundred miles or so. Love the vids man.
They make through sockets. Every mechanic should have them for this reason. W the theough sockets you can hold turn the nut then have an allen hold the piston from spinning as you turn the nut. Not saying you should, but he should so he can do his job properly. They arent that expensive. I got a full metric and sae set from cornwell. Even comes w an extention in case the socket cant get deep enough. Harbor freight also has a set, and so does gear wrench n comes with an adjustable wrench n the handle end holds the through socket. They all hold the socket on the outside so you can have a tool go through the middle or if the threads are too long for a regular deep socket to reach the nut the through sockets can
@@jacksmith2315 yeah am getting a set. I need them for my tool collection. Hope I didn't damage the coilovers by holding nut with deep socket and turning center. Seems ok though.
Ahh the feels, i remember listening to the conversation about fuel efficiency back in the day on rainman rays repair back in the day before you left that shop.
I love this format you're doing. "Don't want to watch the same process over again? That's alright this video is getting long enough as is... But if you did, here's this super secret hidden link to tappy tap that'll lead you to the other half" Lot of content out on the youtube space could learn from this method.
I''m not a mechanic, but I think I have now learned that if you are going to nut your shaft, you should keep a good hold on it with both hands, use plenty of lube, and not be afraid to get rough with it...
I was granted access to the Super Secret video of the continuation of the Authorized Replacement of the structural suspension components. I am special.
Hi Ray enjoyed the video very much. Love how you explain things in detail. It helps us none mechanic's understand what the part's do.These bonus video's always make my day.
I just overfilled my caliper pin with grease and like a hydraulic every time I pushed it in it expanded back out... I just unlatched the seal pushed it in forcing the extra grease out and then wiped off the excess grease xD. I re-greased the pad clips too and the squeeking has stopped, not sure which one was the cause now but I suppose it's better to do both when it's all apart.
Hey Ray from a 70 year old who has beat on ball joints, snatched on Pittman arms and been drenched in ATF, oil, gear lube as well as others I find you smart, very entertaining, clever and really funny. I love you the way you are and the way you do things is very interesting. Keep up the good work and keep being an example to mechanics everywhere that honesty, integrity and doing work the right way. Thank you!
And always have a great sense of humor . That super power is needed to fight of Karen’s and Kevin’s , both species that have no mechanical aptitude or social skills , unless it involves too many energy drinks and they cannot find a bathroom. So that is always someone else’s fault . There is nothing you can say that will calm them down , that is until we get an open season and a elephant rifle LOL .
I said similar in the part one video. I'm still young at 58-years-old, but I've done most of my own mechanical work since childhood, mainly because my father was a deisel fitter/mechanic and I kind of learned through osmosis. He'd always tell me I knew enough to be dangerous... He would be 77 in August if he was still around. Ray is methodical. I am a jigsaw puzzle mechanic. I bag and label my nuts and bolts because I KNOW I'll forget where some are supposed to go. I also have that OCD thing where EVERY part removed must be fastidiously clean before it goes back in.
@@BradGryphonn I used to have trouble spelling diesel. Until I saw the word as die-sel. It has the word die in it.
I have to do this with many words that aren't spelled logically!
@@dans_Learning_Curve I always second guess myself. Stupid diesel.
@@BradGryphonn I bet not anymore! 😁
If you spell it wrong, you'll DIE from DIEsel! 😉 My little system to remember spelling. Have a great day!
"super secret hidden"
youtube recommending it as the first video on the homepage:
I've always used a small chisel to wedge open those style of ball-joint and strut mounts. Makes it much easier to remove/install them.
Exactly. I like his vids but he completely hacked this job. Especially using pliers on the strut instead of compressing it more. Now the plier marks are going to damage the seal. They even make a socket tool that spreads the knuckle where the bolt goes through. It cost like $3. Wouldnt need to be hammering on the knuckle like that. Or like u said a chielse or big screw driver w a couple wacks to spread it a bit more. Idk why he chose to beat the piss out of it w an air hammer instead of jus spreading it to make it much easier. He never reads comments so hell most likely do this every time instead of doing it right
He knows that he just didn't make an extra trip to go get one to spread it.
I did hundreds of these disassembles and sometimes it's just go for it if it will go.
Other times, you're wanting to do the extra and having that thought.
I've done them in the dealer, the tire store, the carport, the gravel.
Out in the woods, or in a driveway.
You improvise.
Once you learn many ways, you can do what seems good enough and not do more.
It still gets done and it's ok.
@@jacksmith2315 he reads the comments and he also responds as he can.. but being a working man he ain't gonna have time to hit every single little comment..
I wonder what percentage of viewers click on the extra super secret videos. I know I always do. Can’t get enough of Ray’s videos.
This showed up in my recommended cause im subbed to this second channel
@Dev JB Playlist click?
I did a complete front end rebuild at home, I deliberately bought a new coil strut assembly already assembled because "I scared" of compressing the springs. But still, I have ten fingers and never had a flying car part hit me yet. I understand your "scares me everytime" comment, that is the best way to not cut corners and you also have good equipment.
I have thoroughly enjoyed and learned from your videos. You are patient, have great ingenuity, and good skills. And, the fact that you verbalize everything so well without using profanity is the major reason I enjoy watching and learning. Thank you!
I am a simple, farm shade-tree mechanic doing what I have to do, and I learn a great deal from you.
Thank you again!
Thanks for you're mechanical knowlege
Having done this over and over again, I sure can appreciate every step you took. I just love watching your content and even pick up great advice across the board. Being a one-man shop on car repairs over here, I know what this feels like. Man kudos from across the pond (Southern Black Forest in Germany).
Grüße aus nrw bin auch seit kurzem selbstständig und hier kann man viel lernen
Wow, just so much going on in my life I just could not miss the super secret Hidden video LOL. Hope your having a fantastic day Ray and keep the content coming 👍
Zombie playing in the background always keeps my spirits high! Great job!!
Why didn't you compress the spring a little more when putting the strut back in the assembly? It seems to me that would have made it easier to secure the plate on top without having to struggle with 2 pairs of pliers!
Now the warranty company will say you ruined the strut shafts sealing with the pliers
I was thinking the same thing! 🤔
☯️🐉👨🦽
If you've ever seen a spring under full compression slip the jaws you'd know why. It's one of those things that, if you manage to walk away from it under your own power, you never let it happen again.
Plenty of guys don't walk away from it At. All.
@@SoulSoundMuisc This is why I hated working with coil springs. Always scared the s*** out of me.
@@blucy10 yup. One of the most dangerous pieces of equipment in the shop. Anything that cages or compresses a spring like that is one little slip, one mechanical failure from disaster. It may not even be the mechanics fault.
Saw a guy get hit in the chest with a brake chamber spring from a semi. The cage broke. He left work in a bag.
I’m texting from Alberta Canada and I think your videos and workmanship is awesome. Good work dude
Would compressing the springs more help with the application of the nut on top of the strut rather than struggling with the sketchy floor jack and pliers?
I dont know if he just doesn't like fking with a compressed spring... or forgot that he uncompessed the spring when undoing the bolt...
@@gavincarstens6497 hes def too scared to compress it more. With that multi $1000 machine, there's no reason he shouldnt have. Now those plier marks are going to trash the seal. Should have used through sockets so you can have the socket on the nut and an allen to hold the piston from spinning. Or even just use a wrench so can hold the piston with and allen. Also, instead of beating on the knuckle like that, all he had to do was spread the back a little n the strut would slide in n out super easy. They make a socket the has and oval shape coming out the tip so you put it in the back of the knuckle long way up, turn 90° so it spreads the knuckle. Or just use a chisle, big screw driver, or pry bar. I usually like his vids n think hes a good tech, but he hacked this one pretty bad.
@@jacksmith2315 you are wrong. You are not a mechanic. You are a loser.
Ray gave some great advice for those concerned over the amount of money they're spending on gasoline. Keep your foot off the pedal. When I used to run around in a street rod, I could literally watch the fuel gauge move when I'd get on it. I think the fuel economy could have been measured in gallons per mile!
I had a 2001 Sentra (1.7). The best ever I go was 33MPG, usually 30. I switched to a LEAF (EV with 80M range) in 2017 and started using the power use dots to get the most range. I rented a Sentra (2.0) for a long trip. I got 50 MPG by driving it gently. (I did not really think the MPG meter was correct until I filled the tank before turn in 😯. Amazing how much less I used driving gentle)
@@steveurbach3093 There's a bit to be said for having more power. It encourages gentler driving. I drive a 115hp 1.0 3cyl turbo. If I'm "driving enthusiastically" it drops from 50 mpg (uk gallons) to around 28. And it's not like I'm going anywhere quickly. I got better out of a 3.0 litre turbo diesel with 204hp.
Like how you show more details about different parts of the process on the same part replacement. Very educational Thanks Ray!
I find the whole thing closer to reality is far as automotive repairs I like some of these car shows that are more like advertisements and they just throw everything together and let's say half an hour and I'm like no you left a lot of key mechanical information out people are going to get into a world or hurt if they do it the way you did thinking about the TV show have a great day
I've gotten better at diagnosing car problems from watching all these repair videos I find you very relaxing and informative and entertaining.
For a lot of the last 20 years I was full sketchy at removing Datsun strut tops. I would just lay strut on ground, stand on spring with left foot, and rattle the top nut off. Parts would go flying, but it was quick.
Thanks for providing another satisfying example of how an honest auto tech operates.
Thanks again from Niceville for another set of smiles, plus an appreciation of witnessing an expert in action.
You might consider creating another sticker:
"Honesty, integrity, and humor make a Good Worker" Maybe just job satisfaction consists of... must include...
Or the heck with all of that. Each of knows in which category of integrity we lie. If not, we're just lying to ourself because everyone else already knows...
The main thing is one has to be honest with oneself then you can truly be honest with the world I find it's a lot easier path to follow have a great day
I wanted to thank you. After watching a bunch of your videos, I got the courage to replace my slightly cracked intake (and the 700 things that bolt onto it). I could understand that if I was having a problem with a step, it wasn't because I was a dumbass-I just wasn't approaching it the right way or I wasn't using the right tool. And if not everything goes right the first time for a pro, I shouldn't expect it to be any different for me.
As a bonus, I got to see the top of the valve train when I replaced the valve cover gaskets (the first time the covers have been off in the 23 years I've had the car. Everything looked really clean with only a tiny trace of wear (shameless plug for running Mobil 1 the whole time I've had the car). I was a little concerned over what I'd find, given the number of times you pulled a valve cover and the valve train looked like it was made of dark mahogany.
First video I’ve ever seen on replacing struts. Thanks for sharing
Don't bother with the control arm, you can pry the control arm down far enough to allow the strut to slip out of the knuckle. Trick is to drive the knuckle down as far as it'll go, pry down on the control arm preferably with a control arm/pry bar tool, and turn the wheel to full lock. It'll come right out. Also driving a small chisel where the strut bolt tightens the strut to the knuckle, it will help you slide the strut in and out much easier.
Usually the price difference between the parts/labor to fix a noisy strut and a ready strut assembly isn't worth the hassle of compressing the strut to change the bearing only to keep the old strut and spring.
Great video. I just had to have this done to my wife's 2015 Rogue for clunking when turning. Nissan has a TSB for this and has updated the parts. Luckily our extended warranty covered it.
Using your impact to remove & install that on the strut causes the shaft to spin in the strut, heating the seals & leak.
The shaft centre has a place for an Allen wrench in the centre to stop it from spinning. There’s a proper wrench/socket to do this
I was just going to say the same thing. Thanks for saving me the typing.
The way I do that is to simply hold in place with a big Allen wrench, and break the nut loose with a simple box wrench. It saves on wear for the strut seals.
Ya he pretty much butchered this whole job. He should have spread the back of the knuckle where the bolt goes through instead of beating on the knuckle w the air hammer. They make a socket that has a tip sticking out oval shaped so you slide it in long ways up, turn the ratchet 90° and it spreads the knuckle so the strut comes out and goes in wo beating on anything. Or could use a chisle or big screw driver to spread it. Also, instead of using pliers to hold the piston while the strut was in the spring compressor, all he had to do was compress the spring more and everything would have fit together no problem. No pulling on the piston w one set of pliers and holding it with another, thats just going to damage the seal from the plier marks. They also make through socket sets. The sockets are hollow and the ratchet holds the socket on the outside so you can put a tool through the middle to hold the piston from spinning. I got mine from cornwell like 10 yrs ago. Harbor freight has them as well. Gesr wrench does too. For someone working in a shop, they are a must have for stuff like this. Or even something the threads are too long for a deep socket, the through sockets slip right over everything. Man...if this was my car and i seen this vid, id flip the f*uck out. I usually love his vids/hes usually a pretty good tech, but he hacked this one pretty bad.
5 seconds of spinning isn't going to heat anything up enough to cause damage. Amateur.
@@jacksmith2315 Once again, here you are spreading false information. You're a fake internet mechanic. Loser.
As a Nissan master I can honestly say. Boy you sure did do that the hard way.
So, what about doing a video of your own showing us the easy way?
Having done this job many times. Compressing spring to max makes fitting of damper etc so much easier. When l Donne this l didn’t have the luxury of a machine to compress the spring for me.Plus a bit of lub is a good idear when replacing damper into wish bone.
You have a great day 👍😃🇬🇷
Ps:- great vid secret vid.
You younger guys are so good at this because you haven't saturated your hadnuff level yet, although I'm sure it seems like it. I admire your attitude, thanks for teaching us.
First time watching. Enjoyed your video.
I was held in suspension watching this as you sprang into action to do yet another miracle
You reminded me of a motorcycle I had trouble with. It went through tires too fast, and used an awful lot of gasoline. Somebody told me that the problem was in my helmet. I bought another one, but that didn't fix the problem.
Great super secret video ON the Passenger side Strut Repair Ray
Tip: Make note of the Top Hat, Spring End, Seat positions before removing. On some vehicles, there's too much spring tension to twist to correct position once reassembled.
Good advice.
Thanks for the refresh. Ive never actually Re-used cheapo struts like that when the bearing went.I just bought a whole new complete loaded strut unit and threw out that 1/2 worn out stuff. I know you gotta make the customer happy and save $$ to make $$ so yeah whatever . (No dis Ray, you do as you do, your all good ! )
Off topic...suspension parts, Usually when replacing my own stuff, I try and find an Alt# Heavy Duty version part, matched from manufacturer.
Like the little known Alt# Chrysler town and country 4X4 suspension parts, that bolt right in to 2wd T&C setups, for Uber Urban pothole resistance.
"Stock" Turbo optional setups for these too 🤣But its ALL Alt listed and shoved in the US forestry system vehicle specs. And I guess only available to Uncle sam forestry guys for original order of the vehicles.? (Kinda same like police only models)
Anyway , point is you never know what parts are available unless you check, upgrades are sometimes super easy, and actually (sorta)OEM approved (for a different model) . Cheap ,insurance if you wrench yourself, or know a guy named Ray and break shit all the time cause you drive like his coworker, all 0-100 like that..
Nissan likes to go with complicated front coilover setups. The 1970-1988 Z cars had a weird strut cartridge that was cumbersome to remove.
I'm so jealous. I did my daughters 16yo Focus for a broken spring. I live in Ontario. Bloody nightmare, this witch was totally seized in the hub. 2 hrs heat and banging and then it took two of us to do the reinstall ( I used a complete replacement) as I couldn't get the tube aligned to the hub. Total 4hrs. +.
Then you do the whole thing in half an hour.
I'm going for a coffee and a sulk
The suspension springs and struts take some hammering on the roads in UK holes in roads everywhere I always put better springs on just think how much the top bearing plate takes your suspension is moving constantly ray we always use new nuts and bolts when we change anything and always put new nuts on ball joints also I have seen garages using the old split pin dangerous you are a good mechanic you know what your doing well done ✌ noticed you never sprayed that drive shaft with some maintenance spray it was really rusty
Hey Ray - I'm not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination but a question...on the installation of the strut into the spring, would it be easier to compress the spring a bit more before trying to secure the top plate/nut? You had to release some pressure when removing the parts so there is additional room to compress. Again, just an observation from someone who doesn't even pretend to be an auto mechanic.
By the way, LOVE the vids!!
Safety! It is less dangerous to expand the strut than to compress the spring. A loaded spring is a lot of potential energy that, released accidentally, can cause oodles (professional term) of damage. Other than that the only issue I saw was that he didn't say 'click' when the struts were seated!
@@PaineK He needs to re-torque and add click or its u safe and might reverse click
Yes I absolutely agree, also you should never use a pair of grips to hold a strut shaft because it will score the surface and inevitably tear at the rubber seal as it compresses and that will cause the strut to leak. I wouldn't be very happy if that was my car!
@@PaineK Can't argue with that, but from my limited experience, compressing the spring another couple of inches would have accomplished the job safely while saving time and effort. The strut spring clamp is safe and effective. Adding a floor jack to the mix added an unstable variable/risk. Trying to immobilize the shock while maintaining the strut's smoothness appears to be a pita.
@@budboggy4699 I did some limited research into the dangers of strut spring compression. It's very dangerous. Two inches of additional compression on that spring would have been a LOT of stored energy. For those guys working on these things, please take ALL the safety steps you feel appropriate.
Thank you for being a great, respectable, hard working mechanic. Don't see that around where I live. Appreciate the videos. Ray reminds me of Mike Rowe. Swear they could be brothers.
I didn't think about that until you mentioned it but yeah does remind me of Mike Rowe followed dirty jobs for years just recently started following Ray
love the way you just pulled the ABS sensor, In the UK that sensor even if it was plastic would be so rusted in that removing the ABS pump and passing that around the strut with the wire still attached would have been a better option that trying to get a UK sensor out! LOL Great video Ray and good to hear the Peter in the back ground xx
So true! In Canada, I am scared to attempt to remove a speed sensor for a shortcut! With the salt & Brine,,, your using a left hand thread drill bit, lots of lube, patience & a new sensor ! So much for the “ short cut!” LOL, good to see your still around!
"Socket Wrench Hammer" I spit my drink out man 🤣😂
Almost every video has Zombie playing on the radio. That station really likes that song.
" I said Hey hey hey Ray. What's going on? Hey hey hey Ray. What's going on?" LOL! My Non blond moment. END OF TRANSMISSION!!!
So many “thats what she said” moments in this video….Makes me wanna look at my wife and say “loud noises” . Great video!
The big nut needs lubing 🤣🤣
I envy that spring press. It's a lot better than the old spring compressor hooks on threaded rod I've been forced to wrestle with as the spring and strut lay on the floor trying to escape and break anything in the spring's path.
I agree with @John Goodman, but one thing I used due to working alone, was ratchet straps. You would be amazed how many hands those things make up for. When did they change the coil over clamps? Used to, we had a clamp set to compress the coil over on the vehicle, removes a great deal of danger and work.
As I do all my own work, ratchet straps are my best friend.
Simply saying, you are one of the best mechanics I've come across on you tube. So there.!!!!!
I'm glad I watched the Super Secret Hidden Video. I admit I never knew struts very well. when you took them apart to replace those upper parts, I was wondering how the strut was located in the knuckle and how far it went in. As I watched you install, I saw you locate the aligning lug and then saw the other one which indicates how far in it goes. Thanks again for another informative video!
And I can see also why an alignment is necessary. The upper mounting studs go in oblong holes, which means a change in the alignment, and I'm sure the other changes also affect the alignment. Thanks!!
Another great job. I prefer Quick Struts because everything is replaced, including a new spring. My Dodge Caravan was sagging in the front and back after 10 years. 2 new front Quick struts and 2 new rear springs fixed all that.
Love how the bolt length changed lol 😆 love your videos so when are you going to do a video working on your vehicle at home with the wife and son helping you 😀 😊
The nut changed as well. Was that a cross thread oops?
He did it to see if we were watching!
super secret hidden video...but showed up on my news feed lol...I'm guessing the All Mighty UA-cams changed how things work again, breaking everything that once was...again?
It wasn't until the "if you're worried about gas" conversation that I realized I had seen this before, and then I looked at the comments to see 5 months ago, but the video says 56 minutes ago that it was posted.
Weird.
I was quite glad that you were able to actually finish this job. I was expecting to not see anything from you until you had posted bail. . .
Watching you pull apart that rust free front end makes me jealous. I currently have the entire front suspension of my 07 Xterra torn apart in my garage since essentially everything was dead or dying from mileage. (And I mean everything. Including the wheel bearings. It was no longer safe to drive.)
So much sawzall action. The lower control arm bolts were cut, the lower shock bolts, the sway bar, etc etc. That's fine though since it's all being upgraded to Nissan Titan components.
That said, I learned something important during this project. Screw all other sawzall blades, go with the Diablo blades with the Tungsten Carbide. It'll chew through the suspension bolts like butter without dulling.
That stabilizer link was like a cobra, ready to strike.
Sounds like a new Rainman Ray Slogan.. "Send it... Torque it... Drive it...".
Question are your channel lock piers clamping on to the chrome surface of the strut? If so they make one with plastic lined jaws! 6V-0006 Pliers used by caterpillar have them!
What about the gas cap cover? Great work. Inspirational to watch.
Always super production from Ray. Thank you.
Nice work as per usual Ray. Thanks for the everyday content. Great stuff to watch
I would've either compressed spring a tad bit more .....or just used a pair of vice grips to hold shaft freeing up both hands ....plus I've always found it better to remove the tie rod bolt to remove the axle ...
love the way you messed with the call guys, i used to give the phone to my toddlers they loved it and got pretty good at dragging them along so many angry scammers...lol
“I know the order of operation… kind of”
LMAO 😂
The amount of “that’s what she said” moments in your videos…..😂
I know its a small thing, but GAS DOOR!??! How did that come out!?!?
The titles of your videos are really creative! Your narration is impeccable!😊🇨🇦
It's very simple, if I see Ray post a video, I watch
Hey Ray. Just have a question on using the Channel locks on the shaft of the strut. Won't that mar the shaft leading to seal failure??
I always keep old pieces of bicycle inner tube rubber handy, to wrap around parts like that before gripping onto the rubber, for precisely that reason. Rubber gets a better grip, and doesn't scar the metal.
Hey Ray. I can't remember who0 makes it, but there is an extension tool that screws on the shock which makes it easier to install the shock and bearing plate. I believe those tools come in a kit for the various sizes of shock shafts and threads.
Hi Ken, we use the one from Hazet. Part number: 4912-5- fits all Euro asian cars where u have ti widen the hole to ge the shock out with ease. u are welcome
Yes there are many manufacturers who have kits like you describe
@@andrealt9261 Thank you. I couldn't think of the name, but I have seen Hazet. The ones I used were from BMW. I think that I was the only tech. that had a set in the shop.
Can we meet the crew? They're all jolly folks and we hear em in the background all day.
Another gem from Ray. Thank you Ray and you have yourself a great day.
Where is your lower control arm pry bar commonly referred to as a hockey stick?
Never had mich luck just replacing the bearing plate. Usually in a year or so the strut gives out. Factoring in labor it comes to a wash almost just getting a quick strut.
I'm hoping to begin replacing my Kia Sportage front preloaded struts tomorrow.
I replaced the sway bar links, then the cross arms, all in hope of eliminating a bumpy, clunky noise.
It seems to have gotten worse, so I am assuming it's that top bushing and parts that go between the strut and the body.
They were my first guess, but I thought I could get away with doing some less expensive parts. Wrong.
All cars I've worked on you don't actually need to remove the ball joint. Just turn the steering to remove the axle and you got enough room to go down. Hope this helps you out!
I am surprised with all your snap-on tools, you don't have the coupler for your air hammer...that spring they give you with the tool always found a way to spit out the bit...it was worth every penny
You are working very hard,and all the stuff you have been trough is a possible cause that you feel a bit tired and under the weather.
Take good care of yourself buddy.
I’ve not ever seen that type of strut where the bottom of the strut mounts where you had to take it out and install it. What a pain in the ass. You do a great job and I love all your videos. Don’t feel bad about any negative comments. There’s also s jerk out there somewhere.
why not recompress the spring, i have changed these on my volvos, with even sketchier spring compressors, and if the spring is short enough, its easy to fit the new bearing plate
How long before that shock starts leaking? The pliers have most likely marred the rod and will damage the seal.
Hey Ray, saying "Click" as if you are a torque wrench brought back a bad memory of mine. I had my wife's oil pan replaced shortly after buying it (1997 Camaro RD 30th Anniversary Edition) because the pan was all dented up. I also had the tranny serviced at the same time. Well, I didn't check their work right after and was having my wife take the car to Jiffy Lube for oil changes and after a year and a month later (after the warranty ran out) I noticed both pans were leaking fluid. They weren't leaking before. I decided to check the torque on the bolts holding the pans and discovered that they all were way to tight which in turn warped the bolt holes on both pans which told me they didn't use a torque wrench at all and most likely used an impact drill to put it all back for and most likely saying "click" every time they put the bolts in without a torque wrench. Makes me mad as hell when mechanics don't use torque wrenches.
It's a shame we can only "like" videos once. I'd give this at least 4.
You can! Create another UA-cam account :P But that's cheating though xD
Any update on the fuel door or are they waiting on that one?
Seems like with all of the extra labor to replace the mounts, it would have been a similar cost to just replace the whole strut assembly. With the mounts being worn that much, the strut can't be far from needing replacement too. False economy in my opinion.
Love the super secret video :)
I never did suspension but did coilovers on my 2015 WRX. My stepbrother and I worked on it. For the top mount portion had used a deep socket with vice pliers on that and then turned the center with an extension with socket in center. We turned the center portion while holding the nut in place with deep socket. Tried using the ratchet strap but the shaft would just spin. If we were doing this again I would rather hold the center shaft portion and then turn the deep socket turning the nut. I think either was is fine. The suspension is still working after a few hundred miles or so.
Love the vids man.
Hey mate, like the avatar. I use the same one at work. :-)
They make through sockets. Every mechanic should have them for this reason. W the theough sockets you can hold turn the nut then have an allen hold the piston from spinning as you turn the nut. Not saying you should, but he should so he can do his job properly. They arent that expensive. I got a full metric and sae set from cornwell. Even comes w an extention in case the socket cant get deep enough. Harbor freight also has a set, and so does gear wrench n comes with an adjustable wrench n the handle end holds the through socket. They all hold the socket on the outside so you can have a tool go through the middle or if the threads are too long for a regular deep socket to reach the nut the through sockets can
@@jacksmith2315 yeah am getting a set. I need them for my tool collection. Hope I didn't damage the coilovers by holding nut with deep socket and turning center. Seems ok though.
How many times a week do you stay after hours? That’s customer devotion right there.
11:00 are you sure it's not the 'Rona? New and improved version seems to be featuring those symptoms!
Rainman, Doesn't grabbing the shock shaft with a Channelock pliers risk scoring the shaft and causing a shock leak? Didn't look like a best practice.
Ahh the feels, i remember listening to the conversation about fuel efficiency back in the day on rainman rays repair back in the day before you left that shop.
Just wondering if you like that ridgid uggha duggha as opposed to a red army(Milwaukee) version...
I love this format you're doing. "Don't want to watch the same process over again? That's alright this video is getting long enough as is... But if you did, here's this super secret hidden link to tappy tap that'll lead you to the other half" Lot of content out on the youtube space could learn from this method.
The thing I like about you having your own shop is, I don't have to hear that damn phone ring!!!!
I''m not a mechanic, but I think I have now learned that if you are going to nut your shaft, you should keep a good hold on it with both hands, use plenty of lube, and not be afraid to get rough with it...
I was granted access to the Super Secret video of the continuation of the Authorized Replacement of the structural suspension components.
I am special.
So they wouldn't cover the fuel door repair? What a crappy warranty company.
I am humbled that you chose to share the Super Secret Hidden Video with me.
YAY - The SUPER Secret video DID have the final test drive! Thanks for sharing. 😃
Hi Ray enjoyed the video very much. Love how you explain things in detail. It helps us none mechanic's understand what the part's do.These bonus video's always make my day.
Always great to have a test drive video.., thanks
Yeah I'm putting a set of quickstruts in if I have to go that far, seems like a waste to go to that point and only change the bearing plate out.
I just overfilled my caliper pin with grease and like a hydraulic every time I pushed it in it expanded back out... I just unlatched the seal pushed it in forcing the extra grease out and then wiped off the excess grease xD. I re-greased the pad clips too and the squeeking has stopped, not sure which one was the cause now but I suppose it's better to do both when it's all apart.
I hardly ever use out strut compressor anymore. Usually install strut assemblies. It's way easier and faster.