Hey Ray. Giz here and I'm a PC tech with 300 years of experience. When I was a wee lad I found a fountain of youth and currently at 500 years old. They sure don't make things like they used to. Anyways, that is called a Ribbon Cable in case you were still wondering. Thanks - Giz from South Central Northern West Virginia, Leader of the Troubled Bears MC, Married to Xenatu.
I was surprised you didn't apply 12v to the amber bulb to check if both filaments were working. Your 'spare' clear bulb could be faulty in same way (one filament blown - spares are often used bulbs and those dim filaments are fragile) Traditionally the dim filament blows waaaay before the more robust bright filament. If turn signal has 2 filaments I would expect 2 power wires in main headlight connector as well as earth (bright flash for daytime when headlights off, dimmer flash for night when headlights are on). When headlights off computer tries to power both filaments for super bright flash - realizes one filament is blown so gives fast flash When headlights on computer tries to flash dim filament - realizes filament is blown so no flash. Alternately (and more likely), it could be bad earth on wiring. This tends to give bizarre results as power gets back fed through other inactive bulbs - hence when headlights on there is no path to ground through other inactive bulbs. Suggest checking for really good ground on that connector - a meter might show very close to zero ohms to chassis and it would still be a problem given the huge currents headlights take. Good luck
The weird flash scenario is a real head scratcher. I do not know about Hyundai cars in particular, but I do know that in automotive electrics if there is a bad ground somewhere in a circuit it will find a ground through a different pathway than designed. When this happens you can have some bizarre happenings. Usually with the fast flash scenario it could mean that an LED was installed which does not have the correct amount of resistance for the circuit to operate correctly. Looking forward to the next episode of "Life with Ray and the Hyundai" to see what the error might be. Keep us all informed... and most of all, Stay safe!
It is a bad ground my man . Everything runs through a smart block aka bcm that looses ground . When that happens it cant carry the load so when you turn things on it the ground cant carry and will search for a ground through other components. Probably the airbag issues also
@@ALEX-xd7ko those symptoms are a classic indication of a ground problem. As long as the parking lights are not on the current from the blinker is back feeding through the marker light and finding a ground through that bulb. Once the marker/parking lights are on the ground is too loaded up to allow proper operation.
I once put LED lights on my Acura, and it blinked like an obsessive-compulsive disco ball; consequently, the Sheriff kicked my ass for it. Maybe an electric load simulator would rebalance them to a normal rate?
The flat wires are called ribbon cable which is highly flexible. It is used in low voltage, low current and low frequency applications. They did make a twisted wire flat ribbon cable for higher frequency needs (I'm old school - core memory and punch cards). I think my next step would have been to pull up the wiring diagram to find out what goes where on the flasher circuit.
I remember when they started adding those cables to aircraft in the air force. Because the first time I saw them was in the new generation aircraft like the F-16 and they had added them to a couple of components on the f11 I was working on on a regular basis. They are called "Ribbon Cable." That is the assigned nomenclature for that flat wire.
I didn't do electrical when I was a GM tech, but knew enough to know the term "ribbon cable" and what it did. Also that's the term used in computers (probably other electronics) for connecting internals (like disks, etc.).
"Clock springs" are indeed ribbon cables. However, the clock spring in automotive terms specifically denotes that particular ribbon cable which is present in all modern cars. If there's a button, a switch or an airbag that turns with the steering wheel they run through the clock spring. There are also often other ribbon cables, generally on top of the roof lining in the cabin for dome lights, aerials, eye level brake lights, modules in the C pillars... These too are fairly prone to breaks and failures.
@RainmanRaysRepairs When you probe the headlight cluster harness connector: you also need to bridge other pins to simulate all circuits connected to BCM; otherwise, BCM will still detect that a bulb is blown or circuit is open to ground, due to loose connection, and indicators will continue to rapid flash. Note: Most vehicles will also cause indicators to rapid flash or become static, if any bulb in external lighting circuits fail or malfunction, and that can also include bulbs for brake/park lights and/or reverse lights; and in certain circumstances, there can be multiple flasher relays combined behind hazard light switch in dash centre console.
Whee Hoo! Having watched you change several 'Clock Springs' I ran right there with my armchair diagnosis! I believe it's called a Ribbon Cable. Dave's car sounds like an engine to send to "I Do Cars".
Thanks for your explanation on blinkers and dashboard indicators. I’ve often wondered if they were important. I’ve noticed many new vehicles that don’t have blinkers. They just break and turn. 😂
Pull the headlight assemblies and check for power at the bulb connection. I had the EXACT same issue on a 2016 Elantra and there was a fault in the wiring of the headlight assembly. We just threw new headlights assemblies in and it solved that issue.
I gather you mean to compare the inputs on the main connector to what reaches the individual bulbs. It's interesting that both sides would fail the same way at the same time. Or did they? Perhaps the vehicle was driven for some time with one faulty blinker, and eventually the other one failed identically. I'm also thinking that "smart" junction block could have a fault, but your thing seems easy to test without getting too far into the weeds.
I really enjoy these step by step diagnostics. You show incredible patience and a methodical process to eliminate components in question. I feel your subscription based fee pain in regard to your diagnostic tool. I'm an IT guy and many of the tools I use are subscription based. It seems to be the way the word is going for everything.
Here in Las Vegas, turn signals are a sign of weakness. Never give your opponent an indication that you want to do something, for they will attempt to block you at each opportunity.🤣
Hi, Ed here from the Netherlands. I suspect you have a ground issue, probably the ground for the blinkers are common with the headlights, that would explain your problem. Keep it up, I like your work!
Great work, think that you did a Hyundai Sonata about a year ago with samme issue on the clock spring unit. Regarding the blinkers, think you should go for a common ground issue on the front light system, if the ground are floating and you switch on the headlight the voltage would step up with increased amp in the frontlights. By the way, check the negative connection from the batterie to the chassie, sometimes this has green crusties, and courses all kind of wierd issues. If you have a termal camera, you can see the bolt and spacer glow in the dark.
Funny with the clock spring! Just had airbag light with my car and the clock spring got replaced, too. I really could not wrap my around how a "spring" in the steering wheel is related with electrical connections... well now I know, thanks Ray!
@RainmanRaysRepairs Pull out the Eric O playbook and treat that Hyundai like a Jeep since it has a case of the Rustbelt Rot, look for bad grounds. Check body grounds, chassis to engine grounds, etc.
That diehard battery has been exposed to excessive heat.... The caps of that battery is easily removable to check the fluid level and can add Distilled water to extend its service life Sure, one can load test it after the fact and see if there is still enough CCA for the rest of the warranty period (can't see the date code sticker edit saw a white marker 9/21)😊 Pretty hefty battery for a 4'cyl engine too😮 probably because of all the modules it has
Reeee! Given all the corrosion underneath, I suspect that the front bulbs' grounds are spliced together in the wiring harness, then brought to some chassis ground. And there will be your problem: A high-resistance ground in the front turn signals.
I would start with the ground wires for the front lighting pods. If the ground is not sufficient, the power will back ground through the circuits it can ground through, in this case the turn signal grounds.
When you said the airbag light was on a particular circuit I thought, "clockspring". I must have been watching a lot of your vids...lol. When you showed a fast flash I thought it might be an LED somewhere in the circuit. I had to add a 50 ohm resistor to change out my turn signals to LEDs. It doesn't appear to be the case here as that headlights on, no flash on front only and dash flasher lights both lit up sounds like a complicated problem to track down. I look forward to the 2nd part to see what that issue is. I watch and learn a LOT from you. Not that I'm going to do any of that on my own stuff as I have a mechanic I get to do my work as so not to make a bigger problem....know just enough to be dangerous...lol. Take care.
Ray, you should test if the hazard lights blink with the lights on as well. Two of the very common reasons the indicators fail is either a faulty ground or the stick switch, but of course, you know that. Have a nice weekend.
Ooh I missed that part... He was thorough thru the process of walking around and checking with the lights off /parking lights on as well as using the separate hazard switch and turn signal stalk
Always very interesting watching your diag process with electrical issues. And with today's modern vehicles even more important to trace a problem to the offending item and not just parts cannoning. Interesting that Hyundai turn signal bulb using the old timey bulb (ll57 maybe). I'm looking forward to the followup diag. Thanks again for another great video.
Damn that customer beat the shit out of that car.😂😂😂 It looks like that person cannot afford to maintain their car, but that doesn’t stop them from driving it. 😂😂
Welcome to strap on Ray. Get an evo ultra made by autel under i forget the name lol . Anyways under 2k has every function of the autel ultra including auto auth and cost maybe 200$ a year not 160$ a month like strap on . Also unlike strap on you wont loose functions if you choose not to update , you just dont get the new functions. Its a bad azz machine also j.s ... the closest thing strap on has is the 15k zuce+
We were on the same page Ray, as soon as you identified both issues, I went straight to the clock spring. Need the price is right failure sound bit. Nice work Ray.
I would start at the front lamp earth point or the earth connection on the plug of the lamp, in the Uk our front marker lights (position lamps) are white and therefore a separate bulb to the turn lamps. great videos thanks Ray.....wait no wife unit in this one!!!
The front lights use a common ground for both sides flashers. Lost ground backfeeds thru the 3157a bulb to the marker side of bulb until you turn on the marker lights.
Good day to you Ray and I hope that you are enjoying your weekend. Great video and a BIG shoutout for the Dave sighting and comment. Always enjoy your videos and the gravitas. Click!!!
Reguarding the mis-fire , the cable / wire to the coil might have an issue also . Have been thinking about the rapid flash . There could be a bad ground connection or more than one , that would cause a high resistance . Also check to see if the correct lamps are installed , that could affect the system . Stay safe , have fun .
I own a 2005 Outback XT, same engine, EJ255. It's cool watching you work on the same engine I have. Looking forward to the fix. Maybe itll help me sometime down the road.
Souds like a ground issue. Maybe check the lease accessible, hardest to find ground on the front clip. Seems its always that one. Keep up the good work!
Ray you only tested 3 of the wires in the connector, perhaps there is a second flasher line (hence the dual filament light) that works when lights are off to increase its brightness for daylight hours.
If it's helpful to ya Ray, I've been daily-driving an Autel MS909 for the last couple years, having owned a Snapon Verus back in the day. Sadly, the subscription model is something you really can't get away from, but I've really enjoyed the diverse compatibility and support the Autel gives me. The sub is $1300/year, period. No paying extra for certain vehicles or extra features, MOPAR SGW access, regular updates, and once you're used to the software layout, the workflow is much better than the Snapons.
Yup, these systems are great tools. But like all tools, they aren’t free. I can understand Ray balking at the cost; but no matter what system he buys; there’s going to be a cost associated with keeping it current. I’m eager to see where he goes with this.
Ray, just gonna say: When your scan tool wasn't reading and you said, "Cut!", I inmediately got an ad in the video. Too funny. You can't make this stuff up. 😂 Edit: Ray, sounds like for the turn signals, either the multi-function switch or the relay for the turn signals are bad. I'm leaning more towards the multi-function switch, only because of the hazard switch operating correctly. It used to be you had separate relays for normal function of turn signals, but it would not surprise me to discover that one relay controls both hazards and normal turn signal function. That being said, remove the relay and check turn signal function, and if that fails, check the wiring at the multi-function switch. My guess is, a new multi-function switch is in order.
I remember when i was a kid we had a 95 pontiac transport at night one of the turn signals stayed lit slightly but it never hyper blinked..my dad had a head scratcher turned on lights in garage in the dark turned on 4 ways(hazards) headlights and stepped on and off brake (checking all lights) come to find out one of the bulbs on taillight assembly was burned out new bulb in indicator on dash function back to normal..the pesky double filament bulb looks normal until it has to do 2 functions...
I had a bad turn signal bulb in my 97 Civic once that caused some very similar behavior to this. It used the same dual filament (one filament for park lamps, one for turn signal, since they are at different intensities and require different circuits) setup. Took some extensive bulb-swapping and testing but come to find out the two positive legs of the bulb were shorted together. The front turn signal would flash, inverse of the rear one, at the reduced park lamp intensity. It also caused fast flash - the different filament, and, in fact, the two shorted together, as well, all have different resistance characteristics. (That model Civic used a thermal flasher but same concept in resistance-monitoring computer circuitry.)
This is an amazing video. Nice work. I was hoping if you could do a video of replacing the actuator door for the recyclation on Hyundai Tucson between 2010 - 2015.
Ray, it isn't the wiring on the car. Had a similar issue with a nissan with this issue, which means it's the headlight fixture. I had to replace the headlight fixture, because a lot of times these headlight fixtures short out on the inside and cause this issue. Once you replace the fixtures, the issue will resolve.
Retired Electrical Engineer here, fyi, most multiple pin low current connectors (like ecm's) can develop high resistance between the male and female terminals due to micro movements between them (called fretting corrosion), so when your diag calls for a module replacement, unmate and mate the connectors a couple times and see if the problem goes away.
Ray I thought you were going to do the airbag exploding when you connected the battery joke😅😅 like how you check every thing step by step, Hi to dave and jesus😅 you got a good team there.
@RainmanRaysRepairs There are two levels of brightness on the turn signal. One very bright when the headlights/marker lights are off (daytime) and one that is a little dimmer for when the headlights/marker lights are on (nighttime). Basically, when in the daylight it needs to be brighter to be seen better and at night (when the lights are on) it switches to a dimmer light so not to blind other drivers. You probably only need to replace those turn signal bulbs and it should be fine. At least for the turn signal issue.
Looks like that car has a NJ DMV inspection sticker on the windshield. In Jersey only rubes buy Hyundai. Apparently a bigger rube in Florida bought it off the Jersey rube. Congratulations Florida, you are number 1 in rubes.
bulb is a aftermarket not oe. might give problem due to resistance difference had same thing with volvo. bulb was not broken. after replace worked was good again.
I think I need a clock spring on my refrigerator freezer door, it chopped 5 of 8 wires in its loom, I did not buy a new freezer door for $1200, fixed it myself, hope I left slack in the wires so no problems in future. I bet they test things for 10 minutes and say YEP it's good. Great vids Ray and team
haven't had chance to investigate, but i spose the oldest ones used slip rings instead of ribbon cables(no picture of you prancing with the ribbons in your hair?), probably slip rings became a scratchy mess when they got old though.
I would make sure the bulbs used are the correct part numbers. I had a sunfire with wrong rear taillight brake light bulbs and did something similar and took me down a crazy path. Spent couple hours for just wrong bulbs. Effected whole system
I like your process of elimination. Im starting to think that car was underwater at some point. I'd be checking the seat mounting bolts for rust. I noticed some bolts/screws/fasteners are rusty on top of the engine. Im looking forward to future diagnosis.
Check the ground on the marker light circuit. If the ground is open, the power from the marker light circuit of a two filament bulb will return back through the blinker filament. That's how the dash indicators light up.
White serial cable with a red line position indicator. Connectors are either connections for communications or molex for power. The weakest link would be the the cables. Always found moving cables fail after a certain period of time if connected too tight. Just a thought. Thanks for another super video. NCR chargers $250 a quarter of a year to keep their diagnostics dongle..so $1000 a year to keep their diagnostics up to date...and 3rd party software gave a attack on software.
Any brand of car can have issues. However it's to the most important to take care of your vehicles this one has been neglected. Take care of your car and it will take care of you.. proper maintenance people!!!!
Hey Ray. Giz here and I'm a PC tech with 300 years of experience. When I was a wee lad I found a fountain of youth and currently at 500 years old. They sure don't make things like they used to. Anyways, that is called a Ribbon Cable in case you were still wondering. Thanks - Giz from South Central Northern West Virginia, Leader of the Troubled Bears MC, Married to Xenatu.
Dave appears to be a super nice ,chill guy , good hire !
Sitting here yelling Check your grounds LOL being a northern car. Watching SMA taught me that 😂
Indeed, and Pine Hollow, and VDD, and Scanner Danner, etc.
I was surprised you didn't apply 12v to the amber bulb to check if both filaments were working. Your 'spare' clear bulb could be faulty in same way (one filament blown - spares are often used bulbs and those dim filaments are fragile)
Traditionally the dim filament blows waaaay before the more robust bright filament.
If turn signal has 2 filaments I would expect 2 power wires in main headlight connector as well as earth (bright flash for daytime when headlights off, dimmer flash for night when headlights are on).
When headlights off computer tries to power both filaments for super bright flash - realizes one filament is blown so gives fast flash
When headlights on computer tries to flash dim filament - realizes filament is blown so no flash.
Alternately (and more likely), it could be bad earth on wiring. This tends to give bizarre results as power gets back fed through other inactive bulbs - hence when headlights on there is no path to ground through other inactive bulbs.
Suggest checking for really good ground on that connector - a meter might show very close to zero ohms to chassis and it would still be a problem given the huge currents headlights take.
Good luck
The weird flash scenario is a real head scratcher. I do not know about Hyundai cars in particular, but I do know that in automotive electrics if there is a bad ground somewhere in a circuit it will find a ground through a different pathway than designed. When this happens you can have some bizarre happenings. Usually with the fast flash scenario it could mean that an LED was installed which does not have the correct amount of resistance for the circuit to operate correctly. Looking forward to the next episode of "Life with Ray and the Hyundai" to see what the error might be. Keep us all informed... and most of all, Stay safe!
It is a bad ground my man . Everything runs through a smart block aka bcm that looses ground . When that happens it cant carry the load so when you turn things on it the ground cant carry and will search for a ground through other components. Probably the airbag issues also
I agree with your Statement, Lack of Ground can cause many Problems...
@@ALEX-xd7ko those symptoms are a classic indication of a ground problem. As long as the parking lights are not on the current from the blinker is back feeding through the marker light and finding a ground through that bulb. Once the marker/parking lights are on the ground is too loaded up to allow proper operation.
I once put LED lights on my Acura, and it blinked like an obsessive-compulsive disco ball; consequently, the Sheriff kicked my ass for it. Maybe an electric load simulator would rebalance them to a normal rate?
As rusty as that car is, my money is on a bad ground.
The flat wires are called ribbon cable which is highly flexible. It is used in low voltage, low current and low frequency applications. They did make a twisted wire flat ribbon cable for higher frequency needs (I'm old school - core memory and punch cards).
I think my next step would have been to pull up the wiring diagram to find out what goes where on the flasher circuit.
If it's ridged and bumpy, it's a ribbon cable. If it's smooth, it's a flat flex cable.
I remember when they started adding those cables to aircraft in the air force. Because the first time I saw them was in the new generation aircraft like the F-16 and they had added them to a couple of components on the f11 I was working on on a regular basis. They are called "Ribbon Cable."
That is the assigned nomenclature for that flat wire.
Indeed, common nomenclature in all electronics.
I didn't do electrical when I was a GM tech, but knew enough to know the term "ribbon cable" and what it did. Also that's the term used in computers (probably other electronics) for connecting internals (like disks, etc.).
"Clock springs" are indeed ribbon cables. However, the clock spring in automotive terms specifically denotes that particular ribbon cable which is present in all modern cars. If there's a button, a switch or an airbag that turns with the steering wheel they run through the clock spring.
There are also often other ribbon cables, generally on top of the roof lining in the cabin for dome lights, aerials, eye level brake lights, modules in the C pillars...
These too are fairly prone to breaks and failures.
It's amazing how you multi task and yet heard a rod knock 20 feet away. 💥💥
Hard to not hear it...
All kias and Hyundai's knock from factory
I was hoping it would turn out to be someone pranking Ray back tapping with a wrench.
@RainmanRaysRepairs
When you probe the headlight cluster harness connector: you also need to bridge other pins to simulate all circuits connected to BCM; otherwise, BCM will still detect that a bulb is blown or circuit is open to ground, due to loose connection, and indicators will continue to rapid flash.
Note: Most vehicles will also cause indicators to rapid flash or become static, if any bulb in external lighting circuits fail or malfunction, and that can also include bulbs for brake/park lights and/or reverse lights; and in certain circumstances, there can be multiple flasher relays combined behind hazard light switch in dash centre console.
Whee Hoo! Having watched you change several 'Clock Springs' I ran right there with my armchair diagnosis!
I believe it's called a Ribbon Cable.
Dave's car sounds like an engine to send to "I Do Cars".
Thanks for your explanation on blinkers and dashboard indicators. I’ve often wondered if they were important. I’ve noticed many new vehicles that don’t have blinkers. They just break and turn. 😂
That has been a BMW feature for decades.....
And BRAKE.
Just exactly WHAT breaks and turns? The Indicators break? The blinkers break? The indicator stalk breaks when turning? We need more info!
@beezul
Everything breaks on new cars, heck sometimes it even comes from the factory already broken for you.....
Tell them break is over and to use the brakes.
Pull the headlight assemblies and check for power at the bulb connection. I had the EXACT same issue on a 2016 Elantra and there was a fault in the wiring of the headlight assembly. We just threw new headlights assemblies in and it solved that issue.
I gather you mean to compare the inputs on the main connector to what reaches the individual bulbs. It's interesting that both sides would fail the same way at the same time.
Or did they? Perhaps the vehicle was driven for some time with one faulty blinker, and eventually the other one failed identically.
I'm also thinking that "smart" junction block could have a fault, but your thing seems easy to test without getting too far into the weeds.
I really enjoy these step by step diagnostics. You show incredible patience and a methodical process to eliminate components in question. I feel your subscription based fee pain in regard to your diagnostic tool. I'm an IT guy and many of the tools I use are subscription based. It seems to be the way the word is going for everything.
Here in Las Vegas, turn signals are a sign of weakness. Never give your opponent an indication that you want to do something, for they will attempt to block you at each opportunity.🤣
Lawyers are in high demand in Vegas.
The three things we have plenty of here in Vegas are casinos, construction cones, and lawyers. @@Michael-yi4mc
IN EAST TENNESSEE WE WILL RUN RIGHT THROUGH YA(THIS IS A RESPECT STATE!)BLESS YOUR HEART
Hi, Ed here from the Netherlands. I suspect you have a ground issue, probably the ground for the blinkers are common with the headlights, that would explain your problem. Keep it up, I like your work!
Ray has hit the "You will own nothing, and be happy" economy.
That is the future the corporations want us to get used to.
Too true.
Agenda 21 and 2030 " You will owe nothing and be happy". A nation of people (renters)working for the Elite who will own everything.
Great work, think that you did a Hyundai Sonata about a year ago with samme issue on the clock spring unit.
Regarding the blinkers, think you should go for a common ground issue on the front light system, if the ground are floating and you switch on the headlight the voltage would step up with increased amp in the frontlights. By the way, check the negative connection from the batterie to the chassie, sometimes this has green crusties, and courses all kind of wierd issues. If you have a termal camera, you can see the bolt and spacer glow in the dark.
I remember you getting that scan tool Ray.
Funny with the clock spring! Just had airbag light with my car and the clock spring got replaced, too.
I really could not wrap my around how a "spring" in the steering wheel is related with electrical connections... well now I know, thanks Ray!
You are correct sir the three pronged death star has rod knock,pistons looking for another home.
That would be why we affectionately refer to them as "Hi-and-dry's"
They're seeking a new home with lots of space, preferably outside the engine block.
@RainmanRaysRepairs
Pull out the Eric O playbook and treat that Hyundai like a Jeep since it has a case of the Rustbelt Rot, look for bad grounds. Check body grounds, chassis to engine grounds, etc.
That diehard battery has been exposed to excessive heat.... The caps of that battery is easily removable to check the fluid level and can add Distilled water to extend its service life
Sure, one can load test it after the fact and see if there is still enough CCA for the rest of the warranty period (can't see the date code sticker edit saw a white marker 9/21)😊
Pretty hefty battery for a 4'cyl engine too😮 probably because of all the modules it has
5:51 Maypop tires ,may pop now ,may pop later
🤣🤣🤣
Hot dang just got my tax check, gonna get me a fresh set of Maypops
That cable is called a Ribbon Cable...just felt I needed to help out. Love your stuff @RainmanRaysRepairs!!
Ray, I love your diagnostic logic. doing 2 swaps (coil + plug) at the same time is genius!
Reeee! Given all the corrosion underneath, I suspect that the front bulbs' grounds are spliced together in the wiring harness, then brought to some chassis ground. And there will be your problem: A high-resistance ground in the front turn signals.
A light in the code reader connector?!!!! THat's dope!
I never worried about checking my wiper blades because new blades was part of my annual winter prep.
I would start with the ground wires for the front lighting pods. If the ground is not sufficient, the power will back ground through the circuits it can ground through, in this case the turn signal grounds.
Yeah, with that first part of the video, rust in various places...
And that's a good idea to check the body grounds
Ribbon cable, not strip wire, but strip wire sounds fine. 😂
I personally think it's, the control module, Junction box,the air bag thingis interesting, thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
Looking forward to seeing your new scan tool🤠
I like "bubbles bubbles...we got troubles on the PT Cruiser"
22:22 as your babbling on, thats ok! Learning a bunch here, never dug that deep into a system like that yet, cool 😎
Official diagnosis: Go home car, you're drunk...
When you said the airbag light was on a particular circuit I thought, "clockspring". I must have been watching a lot of your vids...lol. When you showed a fast flash I thought it might be an LED somewhere in the circuit. I had to add a 50 ohm resistor to change out my turn signals to LEDs. It doesn't appear to be the case here as that headlights on, no flash on front only and dash flasher lights both lit up sounds like a complicated problem to track down. I look forward to the 2nd part to see what that issue is. I watch and learn a LOT from you. Not that I'm going to do any of that on my own stuff as I have a mechanic I get to do my work as so not to make a bigger problem....know just enough to be dangerous...lol. Take care.
Corrosion or rust on the turn signal ground wire harness or a bad bulb as blinkers will run double fast on a bad bulb on one of the lights.
Ray, you should test if the hazard lights blink with the lights on as well. Two of the very common reasons the indicators fail is either a faulty ground or the stick switch, but of course, you know that. Have a nice weekend.
Ooh I missed that part... He was thorough thru the process of walking around
and checking with the lights off /parking lights on
as well as using the separate hazard switch and turn signal stalk
Always very interesting watching your diag process with electrical issues. And with today's modern vehicles even more important to trace a problem to the offending item and not just parts cannoning. Interesting that Hyundai turn signal bulb using the old timey bulb (ll57 maybe). I'm looking forward to the followup diag. Thanks again for another great video.
That scanner for 5K should come with a lifetime subscription!!!!!
Ray FYI it's called a ribbon cable. Nice job as usual. Thanks for taking the time to share some of your knowledge.
Damn that customer beat the shit out of that car.😂😂😂 It looks like that person cannot afford to maintain their car, but that doesn’t stop them from driving it. 😂😂
Kids used to know when the "I scream truck" was around.😊
Welcome to strap on Ray. Get an evo ultra made by autel under i forget the name lol . Anyways under 2k has every function of the autel ultra including auto auth and cost maybe 200$ a year not 160$ a month like strap on . Also unlike strap on you wont loose functions if you choose not to update , you just dont get the new functions. Its a bad azz machine also j.s ... the closest thing strap on has is the 15k zuce+
We were on the same page Ray, as soon as you identified both issues, I went straight to the clock spring. Need the price is right failure sound bit. Nice work Ray.
I would start at the front lamp earth point or the earth connection on the plug of the lamp, in the Uk our front marker lights (position lamps) are white and therefore a separate bulb to the turn lamps. great videos thanks Ray.....wait no wife unit in this one!!!
The front lights use a common ground for both sides flashers. Lost ground backfeeds thru the 3157a bulb to the marker side of bulb until you turn on the marker lights.
Good day to you Ray and I hope that you are enjoying your weekend. Great video and a BIG shoutout for the Dave sighting and comment. Always enjoy your videos and the gravitas. Click!!!
Thanks for explanation on the clock spring, never really understood what it is.
Strange flashing scenario. Interesting! Thanks ray!
Reguarding the mis-fire , the cable / wire to the coil might have an issue also . Have been thinking about the rapid flash . There could be a bad ground connection or more than one , that would cause a high resistance . Also check to see if the correct lamps are installed , that could affect the system . Stay safe , have fun .
learning a lot through your channel that i can use day to day at my job, W channel
Perfect timing I’ve been wanting to learn some stuff about safety restraint systems.
I own a 2005 Outback XT, same engine, EJ255. It's cool watching you work on the same engine I have. Looking forward to the fix. Maybe itll help me sometime down the road.
Souds like a ground issue. Maybe check the lease accessible, hardest to find ground on the front clip. Seems its always that one. Keep up the good work!
I agree with Robert good idea Ray.
Sunday video? Yes!!!! 👏🏽
43:10 2 filament amber bulb because one circuit is for parking lights
and the other is the flashing circuit for hazard and turn signals
Hyundai extended the warranty on the clock spring. They replace the spring on my 2013 free of charge.
We call them "ribbon cables"...
Came to say that also
Same
When you said the car likes curbs I was like the driver like some drinks 🍺 😂
Ray you only tested 3 of the wires in the connector, perhaps there is a second flasher line (hence the dual filament light) that works when lights are off to increase its brightness for daylight hours.
I've had bulbs look good that didn't work. I replaced bulb that didn't work with a new bulb, and I had light. Mind blowing!
If it's helpful to ya Ray, I've been daily-driving an Autel MS909 for the last couple years, having owned a Snapon Verus back in the day. Sadly, the subscription model is something you really can't get away from, but I've really enjoyed the diverse compatibility and support the Autel gives me. The sub is $1300/year, period. No paying extra for certain vehicles or extra features, MOPAR SGW access, regular updates, and once you're used to the software layout, the workflow is much better than the Snapons.
Yup, these systems are great tools. But like all tools, they aren’t free.
I can understand Ray balking at the cost; but no matter what system he buys; there’s going to be a cost associated with keeping it current.
I’m eager to see where he goes with this.
I use a autel scan tool only have to update it for newer cars
Ray, just gonna say: When your scan tool wasn't reading and you said, "Cut!", I inmediately got an ad in the video.
Too funny. You can't make this stuff up. 😂
Edit: Ray, sounds like for the turn signals, either the multi-function switch or the relay for the turn signals are bad. I'm leaning more towards the multi-function switch, only because of the hazard switch operating correctly. It used to be you had separate relays for normal function of turn signals, but it would not surprise me to discover that one relay controls both hazards and normal turn signal function. That being said, remove the relay and check turn signal function, and if that fails, check the wiring at the multi-function switch. My guess is, a new multi-function switch is in order.
I got it too
Awesome video Ray, hope you find what’s wrong with this one!
Good morning Mr Ray, I personally like your little babble history lesson. Clock springs are weird but they work lol. Y'all have a great Sunday
I remember when i was a kid we had a 95 pontiac transport at night one of the turn signals stayed lit slightly but it never hyper blinked..my dad had a head scratcher turned on lights in garage in the dark turned on 4 ways(hazards) headlights and stepped on and off brake (checking all lights) come to find out one of the bulbs on taillight assembly was burned out new bulb in indicator on dash function back to normal..the pesky double filament bulb looks normal until it has to do 2 functions...
That Mazda definately gave up it's ghost to the Piston Rod Gods! 😢...... Fantastic Video Ray!
I want to see a video of what happened to that Mazda 😢
That was more likely a bent/stuck valve to piston clanking, from a jumped chain. Very repairable, but not cheap.
I see the green crusties in your future! A common problem with rust belt cars.
I had a bad turn signal bulb in my 97 Civic once that caused some very similar behavior to this. It used the same dual filament (one filament for park lamps, one for turn signal, since they are at different intensities and require different circuits) setup. Took some extensive bulb-swapping and testing but come to find out the two positive legs of the bulb were shorted together. The front turn signal would flash, inverse of the rear one, at the reduced park lamp intensity. It also caused fast flash - the different filament, and, in fact, the two shorted together, as well, all have different resistance characteristics. (That model Civic used a thermal flasher but same concept in resistance-monitoring computer circuitry.)
This is an amazing video. Nice work. I was hoping if you could do a video of replacing the actuator door for the recyclation on Hyundai Tucson between 2010 - 2015.
Ray, it isn't the wiring on the car. Had a similar issue with a nissan with this issue, which means it's the headlight fixture. I had to replace the headlight fixture, because a lot of times these headlight fixtures short out on the inside and cause this issue. Once you replace the fixtures, the issue will resolve.
Retired Electrical Engineer here, fyi, most multiple pin low current connectors (like ecm's) can develop high resistance between the male and female terminals due to micro movements between them (called fretting corrosion), so when your diag calls for a module replacement, unmate and mate the connectors a couple times and see if the problem goes away.
Ray I thought you were going to do the airbag exploding when you connected the battery joke😅😅 like how you check every thing step by step, Hi to dave and jesus😅 you got a good team there.
@RainmanRaysRepairs There are two levels of brightness on the turn signal. One very bright when the headlights/marker lights are off (daytime) and one that is a little dimmer for when the headlights/marker lights are on (nighttime). Basically, when in the daylight it needs to be brighter to be seen better and at night (when the lights are on) it switches to a dimmer light so not to blind other drivers. You probably only need to replace those turn signal bulbs and it should be fine. At least for the turn signal issue.
Clock spring is an extended recall item (15 years) on the Elantra
Years ago I had a light that did the rapid flash and I changed the bulbs ,light worked fine after that.
129th! Hope you’re having a wonderful Sunday morning Ray and the wife unit. Also the same for the new employees. Roger in Pierre South Dakota
Another gem! Thanks Ray.
A kumo escata, what a wonderful phrase.
Slimy, but satisfying.
Looks like that car has a NJ DMV inspection sticker on the windshield. In Jersey only rubes buy Hyundai. Apparently a bigger rube in Florida bought it off the Jersey rube. Congratulations Florida, you are number 1 in rubes.
That one blowed up real good .
Ray, when you get to the egg-shaped wheel, don't forget to replace the shock. It's broken.
Next airbag removal you do, it would be interesting to see what the push to release mechanism engages on airbag
bulb is a aftermarket not oe. might give problem due to resistance difference had same thing with volvo.
bulb was not broken. after replace worked was good again.
I recommend an Autell scan tool but you also have to pay yearly to stay updated
I think I need a clock spring on my refrigerator freezer door, it chopped 5 of 8 wires in its loom, I did not buy a new freezer door for $1200, fixed it myself, hope I left slack in the wires so no problems in future. I bet they test things for 10 minutes and say YEP it's good. Great vids Ray and team
My entire LG bottom freezer French door fridge cost me $250 about 9 years ago. Been working fine, don't think it has a clock spring though.
haven't had chance to investigate, but i spose the oldest ones used slip rings instead of ribbon cables(no picture of you prancing with the ribbons in your hair?), probably slip rings became a scratchy mess when they got old though.
I would make sure the bulbs used are the correct part numbers. I had a sunfire with wrong rear taillight brake light bulbs and did something similar and took me down a crazy path. Spent couple hours for just wrong bulbs. Effected whole system
I had a simlar indicator issue some years ago and it turned out to be a bad earth on the rear light units, took ages to find, best of luck with it. :)
The flat wires in PCs are typically referred to as ribbon cables.
I like your process of elimination. Im starting to think that car was underwater at some point. I'd be checking the seat mounting bolts for rust. I noticed some bolts/screws/fasteners are rusty on top of the engine. Im looking forward to future diagnosis.
Check the ground on the marker light circuit. If the ground is open, the power from the marker light circuit of a two filament bulb will return back through the blinker filament. That's how the dash indicators light up.
Thank you for another great video. Stay safe out there. Cheers
Good day, ray and hello to Dave
White serial cable with a red line position indicator. Connectors are either connections for communications or molex for power. The weakest link would be the the cables. Always found moving cables fail after a certain period of time if connected too tight. Just a thought. Thanks for another super video. NCR chargers $250 a quarter of a year to keep their diagnostics dongle..so $1000 a year to keep their diagnostics up to date...and 3rd party software gave a attack on software.
I bet there are some LED globes in the back. LED globes will cause rapid flash. Your welcome from Australia.
I was wrong,
Any brand of car can have issues. However it's to the most important to take care of your vehicles this one has been neglected. Take care of your car and it will take care of you.. proper maintenance people!!!!