This is why I left auto repair very early! You do great work and you are accused of being a thief! People abuse their cars for year after year and then get upset that something breaks or needs attention! Love cars hate people!
People ruin everything. Next time you're someplace having a bad time, consider whether your experience would be any different if there were half as many people competing against you for whatever you're trying to do.
Get into fleet and commercial vehicles; WAY BETTER. They don't ask "How much?", just "How fast can you fix it?". It's business to business, and they NEED their vehicles to make MONEY. The public plays way to many games.
Yeah. Costumers make any excuse to not pay any money to get proper service. Everytime my friend goes into a shop. He declines, and called me. I've been working on cars for 12 years +. I tell him what he needs, or not. Most of the stuff is things they say you need, and don't. At least not on that short of interval. There are a lot of bad shops, but this guy has integrity, and experience, and talent in the field. It's nice to see videos like these. Especially the little quip at the end from the customers dad. Probably just tight on money. Seems like they went to a possible bad shop, or body shop previous anyways. Always wanting to save every penny will do that.
Funny - I had an Exploder once - when it gave me that warning light, I hurried away to a shop. Got told there were problems with MAF and fuel regulator amongst a few others. I also knew I had a bad battery, so had that on order, and got to replace that before anything else got worked on. With the new battery all the other problems solved themselves. This is the fine art of CANbus, which were supposed to make this search for faulty components childs play. Well, it obviously didn't, when it doesn't even take your own power supply into account. On another occasion, I had a Nissan that wouldn't start. Shipped it off to a shop, got bad compression on all four cylinders (2l engine). Changed the battery on that one as well - all readings ok, and started on the first turn. All of this was in Norway, so I hate to say it, Ray - but the faith in automotive repair business is not halting just in the US. I think this is more of a global problem. This is why I think it is so awesome that you make these videos, showing how both good and bad fixes and even some scams could be done. Thanks a lot, dude!
@@matta3888 a little no-ox goes a long ways. I use the wire brush style terminal cleaners with the no-ox and have no problems. The no-ox is like a cross between wax and grease. It can be slippery on smooth surfaces so terminal cleaners that shave it smooth don't work with my style of no-ox. Never have to go back and clean them if you prevent oxidation before it starts.
@@mikelemoine4267 well I never thought of that. My supply is mostly leftover surplus from working in uswest central offices. I wouldn't even know where to find new supply of it.
Dad: "You took ADVANTAGE of my daughter by FIXING the problem!!!" Ray: "Sorry about that, I'll revert everything I fixed and install the dead battery so you can get a second opinion from the "mechanic" that stuck their nose in the engine bay the first time and failed to fix anything themselves."
I'd seriously offer that if it were me. Say nothing except "Well bring it back, I'll reverse the repairs and give you the money back... but good luck driving it home..."
That’s actually what we did. With the exception of the loose connector. The girl said yes to replacing the battery, then dad called and threw a fit, so I threw the junk battery back in and sent them on this way free of charge. “Good luck, have a great day!”
You only had to LOOK at those battery connectors to see trouble. I can't believe no one cleaned the inside of those connectors, it takes all of 60 seconds with a battery terminal brush. Hint: One of the main things that makes alternators and batteries fail is bad battery connectors!
Replacing an alternator without testing the battery or even cleaning the posts and clamps, one of my peeves. Hope you sent the link to this video to her father who probably didn't plug in the airflow sensor properly, among a few other failures.
I lost track of how many times I fixed a bad or dead battery issue by cleaning clamps as a AMA service/tow driver. A lot of times, they didn't even need a boost once they were cleaned. It's a two way street, can't get juice out, can't put juice in. Clean connections and keep resistance low. A lot of times, a full charge and the "bad" battery was fine.
@@patrickbuick5459 I got home from work once and a friend called, "my car won't start and I am stuck at...." . I drive 15miles and end up tightening battery connectors.......annoying when I know he should know at least that much. :)
@@raybin6873 I know, but unless I carried it for the customers, it would be them.that needs it. I run AGM sealed batteries now, so no more green fuzziness.
Your a Legend Ray. I showed my wife your vids because I enjoy them so much. She picked up the Rad cap and I thought that was great because I didn't. Glad you didn't forget it. Hope the owners father watch your vid to show that the battery was stuffed. It probably didn't need the alt the previous gut replaced. All the way from Australia 🇦🇺 love your work!
It ain't easy being a mechanic as there are so many dodgy ones out there ripping people off.So when you do good, your work is not appreciated by some. Like all tradies,finding a good,reliable,respectable AND honest one ain't easy.
That’s what makes you the man! You don’t give up even when there’s no money in it you still do the morally correct thing! Many mechanics would have simply told the customer they need a new battery and terminals. Then diagnosed the problem if there still was one. I admire that you carry those work ethics. I did the same when I was a woodworker.
Hey, on the battery tester...... And sorry if this has been said already but there are over 1500 comments already and I haven't read them all. Each clamp has two separate circuits between the battery and the tester. There are a total of 4 wires, two to positive and two to negative. The opposing jaws of each clamp are an independent circuit. One side of the clamp applies a load to the battery, and the other side measures voltage before, during, and after the load is applied. Each side of each clamp must be gripping the battery post directly and separately. No matter how clean the battery terminal clamps are, this tester won't give accurate readings, or won't work at all if it is clamped onto the battery cable end. It has to be clamped directly on the battery post.
Videos like this make me feel like less of an idiot when I do something simple 10 times in a row....Keep up the good work man I really enjoy your videos
Those battery terminals could use some cleaning. I've resolved many charging problems by just doing proper battery service (Distilled Water) and cleaning/replacing terminals.
Honestly a lot of times batteries have been charged poorly and have a loose plating full of bubbles rather than a nice solid plate. I've found if you fully discharge the battery then charge it on a current limiting power supply at like 15v with a .05A or less you cab keep batteries alive far longer. The higher voltage with limited current helps rebuild the plate in a nice solid layer.
Somehow I get the feeling Ray just reeled in a TON of fish with this video. So many caught that cap idea but so many more are ripping him about the way he handled the battery testing. From all of his past videos it is pretty obvious that this HAD to be a gag video. Ray is a far better mechanic than that. As for the girl's father, he should be declared a health hazard not just to his daughter but to everybody she gets near to on the road after he "fixes" things on that vehicle!
I love the sound effects...On another note, I was having issues with a 6 month old battery in my 2008 Kia Sportage. No cranky, no lights. I have a dashcam that I have to plug into the cig. lighter and sometimes forget to unplug it. I thought I killed the battery so I hooked my trickle charger to it, it had worked like a charm in the past but the, "charging" light on the charger would NOT come on and the battery wouldn't take a charge. The terminals had next to no corrosion but I had nowhere else to look. Took off the terminal clamp, scraped them out, put some dielectric grease on them and reassembled...voila!
You know that you're getting old when you watch a video and think, "That's a quality extension cord!" God, what happened - I used to be young and cool!
Well... I changed 2 batteries on a Massey ferguson and removed two shovel full of dirt from the tray since the cover is long gone ... It's a dirty job but someone's gotta do it.. And it doesn't help that the guy who ordered the new batteries got the plus and minus side mixed... Even with pictures of the original batteries
We can't forget old tractors/cars/trucks can be a little different in the battery compartment with things like 6v to 12v conversions, floating grounds, some had backwards color coded battery cables from the oem, retrofitting of other than original batteries due to discontinued battery models... etc. etc.
I'm old school, I guess, but I would have checked the electrolyte level in the old battery. You will sometimes find the plates partially uncovered which reduces the capacity of the battery. Add distilled water, nothing else.
@zeddy mcdog Stop the video at 4:58. See that thing that says DANGER/POISON? That's a plastic cap you can flip off with a flat blade screwdriver. Underneath you will find three cells where you can check and adjust the electrolyte level by adding distilled water. It is the easiest possible thing to do and used to be considered routine battery maintenance. If this were your own battery and the plates were uncovered you might try buying $1.00 of distilled water before buying a new battery.
@zeddy mcdog There are plenty of serviceable flooded batteries still in use like the one in the video. The only thing you ever add to them is distilled water, you never add acid after the original charge. And yes, a battery with low electrolyte and partially uncovered plates can be restored to some extent with the addition of distilled water to the correct level. I thought you might appreciate learning something simple that might save you a few bucks. Mechanics don't do it because then they lose a battery sale and they don't want comebacks.
@@mikeb.7068 Actually you can add acid if needed. But if needed, something else is probably wrong. You need a proper tester for knowing when and how much acid/water to add. They don't even teach that anymore.
Before all the fancy diagnostics, a visual inspection is always a good place to start. The unplugged MAF was a simple fix. Once watched a video where a F150 was in "limp home" mode. The guy checked all the PID's and then got out the voltmeter checking different places on the harness ... until he finally got to the wire that was melted onto the exhaust manifold, shorting and grounding.
This exact scenario happened on my raptor... i had just put in an engine and left the harness against the exhaust manifold by mistake. I was thanking my lucky stars that I didn't need a new transmission valve body.
Dad mad because HE left MAF unplugged 😆. Love how Ray was OCD to test battery, and tool didn't like the corroded clamps. Win/Win. The battery didn't sound that bad; it was low due to 5000 cranking cycles due to MAF connector causing stalling. Excellent editing 👍.
@@zromo8994 I've done a LOT of work on my cars over a lot of years, including doing most of the work on my Jeep XJ that I've had for 25 years and over 500k miles. Those terminals badly needed cleaning, he could have done a quick cleaning in less time then he spent fooling around with those clamps.
@@JeffDeWitt He mentions on another comment that he already performed a cleaning. The connectors were just junk as they so often become in those sheet metal ones
We know the Cap was there because he opened it up and looked in.. It was sitting there.. He's playing with us.. What a damn good mechanic this guy is. He's got the right tools. Good tools make for a good mechanic. good job man.....
Depends on the codes. Some are short term storage in volatile memory. Others are stored on non-volatile memory so that they can still be seen in the history. Depending on how the ECU is programmed, the loose connector may be a temporary code that clears when rectified, or probably after power cycling as you say. It's probably still in the stored though, as a historic code in the non-volatile memory. (Until cleared by a scantool.)
@@NemoConsequentae unless you have a brand new car, unplugging the battery is going to reset the check engine light every single time. They are called "hard codes" and will remain in the computer and will not set the check engine light. When you restart the car and what ever module says there was a problem, sees that the problem has not been rectified then I will set the check engine light again. A lot of emission and engine codes will stay hard set until after the car has been driven for a period of time, in which the module will clear itself after a certain amount of time has gone by with no issues detected. That's why unplugging your battery to clear your light before an emission test doesn't work and most of the time the light comes back on before you get there.
Automatic transmissions (or as I call them, awful magic), can also be started in neutral. It helps to flip between directions, That's how I deal with rough idlers.
90% of the time if the alternator has failed it has worked the battery to death its very rare a new alternator is fitted before its killed the battery , its either under charged or overcharged = dead
Enjoyable video. You trolled everyone including yourself. Except the 21 yo daughter. Had a great laugh and thoughts about the content as I have been there myself. Great job.
HAHAHA The poor tester was set for out of vehicle. The noise from being hooked up caused the fail testing issue.... The main reason I got out of working on cars in the repair shop environment was the customers. Now I do customization work and am able to pick and choose my clients. Yes, I have seen a few mechanics that would try to rip off their own mom and that was the other reason. Lastly I hated working with service writers as most of the time there was communication issues and many service writers can quote specs like horsepower rating but actually know nothing about cars in a way that matters.
One look at the battery was all I needed to know... They put in a 90 day warranty battery that was the cheapest one in the store, and then get all upset when it fails.
I was yelling "Mass Air Flow Sensor!" as you fought to get it into.the shop. I had mine fail at work on a mk 2 Ford Sierra once. It took so long to get it to my mechanic friend. Had no idea what was causing it to buck & die like that. It must've taken 45 minutes to do the mile or so to his garage. Anyway, I was a sweaty heap when I got there & when he just unplugged a connector & it suddenly ran well enough to use so I could get to the scrappy to get a 2nd hand one it was one of those "WTF!" moments. So, if this ever happens to you. Those symptoms at the start of the video are very idiosyncratic of the MAFS failing. Just unplug it. The car will run well enough to get you gone or to find a MAFS in a scrapyard. It's a fine piece of wire that's heated by it's resistance. It's placed in the air intake & by the amount of cooling that takes place as air rushes past it (it's resistance changes with temperature) the computer can calculate how much air is coming into the intake. This fine wire can break or, more often, get dirty & fail. When you unplug it the computer takes a guess and it'll get you home.
I like how you had one difficulty on the old lady’s car and replaced her battery terminals immediately, but suffered through “unstable connection” alerts on this one and left the rusted out terminals on. Lol, problem of the day
Even back when I was 20, if my parents tried to muscle into my dealings with the people I'm hiring with my own money to repair my own shit, I'd tell them to jog on. I don't think highly of these adults who can barely tie their own shoelaces without getting daddy involved.
its a shame that you get the brunt of the angry ignorant customers from dealing with so many dishonest crappy mechanics...then they take it out on you. I hope these videos help you navigate some of those situations. also it is very refreshing to see a laid back, honest, and thorough mechanic. it is certainly rare. this is why I do 1 of 3 things when dealing with mechanic work. I either A) do it myself, B) have the dealer do it under warranty if that's the case, or C) have a close friend that you trust that owns a shop do it. or if you're lucky enough to find a mechanic like yourself, hold on to it! and never let go JACK!
I saw that in 4th test. Cables are also very dirty. Also, you need to learn how to properly disconnect and reconnect a battery. Disconnect neg first and connect neg last.
@@jeffs4576 And the battery place I was at recently, they had a standard little 9V battery that they clipped to wires before disconnecting. This preserved the radio presets and the radio going into theft mode. Electrical Engineer’s note. Don’t connect a 9V battery to a car battery for long. The battery will be trying really hard to “charge”the primary celled (not rechargeable) 9V. I’m thinking battery hot. Really hot. Start to bloat. One of the end caps blows. The case ruptures. All the magic smoke comes out. I guess you could put a (schottky) diode in one of the test probe leads, but I don’t think they did. I mentioned it to the dude. He’s just doing it like his boss told him to do it.
LOL I was gonna mention the cap but I’m glad I gave you the benefit of the doubt for 60 seconds! Great channel. You speak my garage language, with such phrases as “test, you ffkin Pisa schitt.” And “son of a...doodle.”
"How about you fix it yourself dad" Honestly trying to sell someone a battery wouldn't be anything suspicious at all. The suspicious upselling comes when there's a long ass laundry list of shit presented to them and "recommended" they fix it.
You'd think you'd be surprised that people actually need a bunch of stuff fixed on their vehicles. But it really is the truth. 90% of the vehicles 5 years or older on the road, typically need a laundry list of crap fixed on them. Because nobody takes care of their vehicles.
yeah either ppl dont take care of their cars or they just don't know. Its better to tell the customer what you see that need some attention. Explain what needs to be done, and what can be put off for now. Its not suspicious at all when you can show them the worn tie rod end, leaking hose, cracked serpentine belt, uneven tire wear, worn pads etc....
@@JosephArata Not surprised at all, I deliver auto parts, I see all kinds of shit. I take care of mine and run the fuck out of it, it needs plenty but nothing dire, isn't a hunk of shit either, however.
Over the years I have learned to clean my battery and terminals. A dirty battery will slowly discharge and if you jumpstart it, it’s only a matter of time until it will fail. I had them last over 10 years.
Problem is the lead composition of newer batteries has changed in the last 25 yrs and they don't last nearly as long anymore... Heck the factory original battery in my 93 dodge d350 diesel truck still tested within specs when I replaced it at 25 yrs old when I bought the truck... The new battery failed at just 2 yrs old.
Your battery tester was set to "out of vehicle" instead of "in vehicle". Once you removed the leads it then worked because it matched that tester's settings.
From my experience with testers like that, "in vehicle" just means it will will ask the user to perform a series of actions like turning on the headlights, starting the engine, rev it to a specific RPM et c. Basically, it tests the battery under load and the charging system. "Out of vehicle" is correct if you only want to test the battery, regardless of whether it's located in an engine bay or in your attic. Leads connected or not doesn't matter.
Broooooo they battery tester bit had me stright dying. I am glad to see I am not alone. In b4 DM complains that not enough work orders have battery test slips attached.
Ray is a awesome mechanic i did notice when he closed the hood the antifreeze over fill jug cap was not on i dont know if he took it off or if it came in shop like that ✌
Actually, he could've saved a lot of hassle by not being lazy the first time. A quick wire brush (I use a drill with a wire wheel) can get the majority of that corrosion and rust off and have a stable connection for testing. It only takes 30 seconds. Shit, where I work (similar job but on two wheels), it's pretty much standard and expected.
@@charlestannehill7537 honestly if it says charge and the battery is older than 4 years I recommend to the customer. Mainly because the agm batteries on Mercedes always go out on year 4 with a few stragglers making it to 5 years, at the same time we cater to people that drive Mercedes and they rather replace the battery than have to deal with a car that won’t crank and need to call Mercedes road side and wait 1hr
@@yepyepyepyep1407 I stay away from German vehicles. Had a 750i for a few years, and it always seemed to have the weirdest most expensive fails of all time. Nice while new, but once 100k hits, it almost feels like planned obsolescence. Yes, I did all the repairs myself (thermostat, idrive system and audio amp, the mechatronic system on the trans, etc.), but it was still a hassle. Now I stick with my Chevy's.
@@charlestannehill7537 yeah German cars are a hassle after 80k miles, and people complain I tell them to dump it but they don’t want to. I have a e320 cdi which is a bulletproof drivetrain but all the electronic fail and it’s expensive enough with my discount
@@yepyepyepyep1407 the main item I didn't like was that the 750i only came in automatic, but the 550i came in manual as an option. The trans was the biggest problem with the 750i. Motor was solid. Hit 190k and it was still going strong with basic maintenance. If the 750i had the same manual option, I would've kept it. I loved everything about that car except the trans.
Technically in the video it clearly shows that you closed the hood with the cap still off. So I assume you lifted the hood topped up the coolant and then put the cap on, off camera.
You got it back on without having to replace the cap? Dang on a Taurus when you leave it off and close the hood it gets crushed and have to end up having to replace it
I havent used the snapon tester but several other dealer branded versions and I was curious if you had the unstable battery warning because you had selected "out of vehicle" test. I had run into that problem selecting out of vehicle battery test when connected due to the small draw the modules pull so the voltage wasnt stable. I could be wrong, just a potential reason for the headache. of course having to "charge and retest" is another waste of time. Great content broseph.
Out of vehicle test on the GM tester did that if you did not unhook the cables almost every time. There is always voltage passing if cables are hooked up.
I hate that new digical crap. I still have a carbon pile tester in my shop. Damn thing is pushing 70 years old but it still works and you don't have to go through 79 menus to get it to do it's job.
@@That_AMC_Guy Same here . I use mine very infrequently being retired and I dont have to worry about internal batteries failing or mother boards corroding. My old carbon pile hangs on the wall and works rain or sine
Its amazing what checking connections under the hood can fix....I bet dear ole dad changed the alternator and radiator. As for his complaining..tell him to watch this video...it doesnt lie🙂 Keep up the great work Ray!!
It was originally because Ford had issues with exploding tires at highway speeds causing rollovers... Started the Ford/Firestone tire debacle which was actually found to be Fords fault as they changed the doorjam tire pressure sticker from 35psi to 25psi to attempt to make the explorer ride better but it would also overflex and overheat the tires causing them to blow apart... I fixed many EXPLODER tires with a sharpie on that sticker
I'm a firm believer that the engine light went off because you disconnected the battery. There is no way the car cycled enough to clear airflow sensor code on its own without driving for several many miles!
Unplugged-sensor codes can clear right away depending on which sensor and which vehicle. No need to go through the drive-cycle for the electronics to see that it's getting a voltage signal instead of an open circuit.
Not sure if it was mentioned yet, but the battery tester showed an "out of vehicle" test. The unstableness was likely the vehicle drawing current when the tester wasn't expecting it. My tester at work does the same things.
@@sunbeam8866 or have a shade tree schmuck leave the caps off for more ease of gas permeation through the schrader valve seals. All so he can charge for "recharges".
@@JosephArata Didn't know that was a 'thing'. Just figured some lazy schmuck set the loose cap on the inner fender or some other risky spot. Then it fell and was lost forever, way underneath somewhere. Sometimes, when I'm in a salvage-yard getting a part, I'll grab extra caps and other small items that are often easily 'lost'!
My first look at the battery showed me rusted-corroded clamps on the battery cables. Battery had not charged properly in some time- ruined it. Ray never cleaned those connections!
Have just seen this video for the first time. I find it funny that the battery in your battery tester is low. Oh, the irony. I once use a DMM to repair a DMM. That was really ironic.
"NO I DIDN'T FORGET THAT CAP" lol. Keep up the good work bud. I wish I knew a mech like yourself. I would feel very confident in giving my vehicle to you for repair. I worked around cars all my life (I'm now 78) and my official trade was as a car upholstery guy but the cars of today really scare me. I refer to them as rolling computers. The average Joe can't 'tinker' with their cars anymore. I have a 2015 Chrysler 200 with the 3.6 engine and my only recourse is to take it to the dealership for repair.
Some shops require a print out for warranty on previously sold batteries. It's becoming more common than you think. Carbon pile load tester is fine, but it can't print out a read out of all the specs like Reserve Capacity of the battery.
I'm the proud owner of a vintage 1999 Explorer. I felt your pain with that battery. I think there is some flaw in the design for that. Mine is V8 AWD and for the 1st year every 4 months the #4 plug would foul. After 2 different shops "fixed it", the guy at the auto parts said to change the coils.......guess what that did. Fixed it!
The bonehead dad will be back wanting to know "what you screwed up while you were changing the battery" in six months or less when the rear timing chain snaps and falls in the oil pan! 4.0 sohc isn't worth the time and resources it took to repair.
@Dude with Opinion my family had one that I'm pretty sure got over 500k out of it. I don't know for sure bc the odometer broke at 287k. But it was driven everywhere for about 8 years after that.
@Dude with Opinion The 4.0 OHV is a good if unremarkable engine, but the SOHC 4.0 in this video isn't as good or long lived as the OHV. Better performer though.
@Dude with Opinion, my 2010 Ranger Sport has that 4.0 and still running like new. It gets regular oil changes and checkups. If that truck can get traction that engine will pull it, as evidenced by the number of trailer loads of trees and debris I hauled after Hurricane Michael tried to remove my part of the state from all maps.
How are so many people complaining about those battery terminals. Have you ever seen corroded battery terminals? These are perfectly fine in the video.
10:30 The CE reset after the battery was disconnected for however long it was charging for which is followed immediately by 10:35 where you closed the hood with the coolant reservoir open and the cap still sitting on the air filter. I was in a small "WTF" moment until the end when I saw the text.
Hi Rainman Ray i was watching your work at 3 AM and made me subscribe you. You are very interesting guy in your skills. Thank you for your videos. It gives viewers lots of knowledge
The schmoo that collects on top of the battery case is conductive. If it manages to bridge the terminals it can allow the battery to self-discharge pretty quick, and a chronically low state of charge es no bueno for longevity. Don't know if the schmoo had anything to do with the tester's "unstable battery" histrionics, but usually the first thing I do is get the top of the case relatively clean and dry before moving on. To be fair, the battery (while marginal) might last a while longer yet. Don't need all them Cold Cranking Amps in Florida. But I certainly wouldn't say you were trying to rip them off.
My first thought was upper and lower intake o-rings because of the difficult cold start and feathering the gas to keep it running and you said that you needed it to warm up to pull it onto the shop. Had to replace the ontake o-rings on a 2000 Ford Explorer. Nice amount of work to replace $6 worth of o-rings.
This is why I left auto repair very early! You do great work and you are accused of being a thief! People abuse their cars for year after year and then get upset that something breaks or needs attention! Love cars hate people!
I'm a bmw mechanic, be a great job without customers. Love bikes hate cars and people.
People ruin everything. Next time you're someplace having a bad time, consider whether your experience would be any different if there were half as many people competing against you for whatever you're trying to do.
Get into fleet and commercial vehicles; WAY BETTER. They don't ask "How much?", just "How fast can you fix it?". It's business to business, and they NEED their vehicles to make MONEY. The public plays way to many games.
Yeah. Costumers make any excuse to not pay any money to get proper service. Everytime my friend goes into a shop. He declines, and called me. I've been working on cars for 12 years +. I tell him what he needs, or not. Most of the stuff is things they say you need, and don't. At least not on that short of interval. There are a lot of bad shops, but this guy has integrity, and experience, and talent in the field. It's nice to see videos like these. Especially the little quip at the end from the customers dad. Probably just tight on money. Seems like they went to a possible bad shop, or body shop previous anyways. Always wanting to save every penny will do that.
I maintain the fluids in my car and fix things like the valve cover gasket etc but leave the major stuff to the mechanics
Funny - I had an Exploder once - when it gave me that warning light, I hurried away to a shop. Got told there were problems with MAF and fuel regulator amongst a few others. I also knew I had a bad battery, so had that on order, and got to replace that before anything else got worked on. With the new battery all the other problems solved themselves. This is the fine art of CANbus, which were supposed to make this search for faulty components childs play. Well, it obviously didn't, when it doesn't even take your own power supply into account.
On another occasion, I had a Nissan that wouldn't start. Shipped it off to a shop, got bad compression on all four cylinders (2l engine). Changed the battery on that one as well - all readings ok, and started on the first turn.
All of this was in Norway, so I hate to say it, Ray - but the faith in automotive repair business is not halting just in the US. I think this is more of a global problem. This is why I think it is so awesome that you make these videos, showing how both good and bad fixes and even some scams could be done. Thanks a lot, dude!
No child play in this game do it right or get burned.
Those battery cable connectors looked like they could have used a good cleaning.
I have to clean our equipment and vehicle battery cables and terminals ever so often. I wish Ford battery cables are longer.
@@matta3888 a little no-ox goes a long ways. I use the wire brush style terminal cleaners with the no-ox and have no problems. The no-ox is like a cross between wax and grease. It can be slippery on smooth surfaces so terminal cleaners that shave it smooth don't work with my style of no-ox.
Never have to go back and clean them if you prevent oxidation before it starts.
The cost of doing that would have exceeded the value of the vehicle!
@@mikelemoine4267 well I never thought of that. My supply is mostly leftover surplus from working in uswest central offices.
I wouldn't even know where to find new supply of it.
Those look like stock connectors, surprised they lasted this long
You violated a 21yo by providing best possible service? Shame on you for being so professional!
Dad: "You took ADVANTAGE of my daughter by FIXING the problem!!!"
Ray: "Sorry about that, I'll revert everything I fixed and install the dead battery so you can get a second opinion from the "mechanic" that stuck their nose in the engine bay the first time and failed to fix anything themselves."
I'd seriously offer that if it were me. Say nothing except "Well bring it back, I'll reverse the repairs and give you the money back... but good luck driving it home..."
Tell Dad "NC for your daughter's MAF diagnosis & repair. But you owe a $250 A-hole tax!"
$100 says the other mechanic was the dad.....
@@jeepnutnh I'd take that bet lmao
That’s actually what we did. With the exception of the loose connector. The girl said yes to replacing the battery, then dad called and threw a fit, so I threw the junk battery back in and sent them on this way free of charge. “Good luck, have a great day!”
You only had to LOOK at those battery connectors to see trouble. I can't believe no one cleaned the inside of those connectors, it takes all of 60 seconds with a battery terminal brush.
Hint: One of the main things that makes alternators and batteries fail is bad battery connectors!
Replacing an alternator without testing the battery or even cleaning the posts and clamps, one of my peeves. Hope you sent the link to this video to her father who probably didn't plug in the airflow sensor properly, among a few other failures.
parts changers....probably took the advice of the kid making $9 an hour at the autozone
I lost track of how many times I fixed a bad or dead battery issue by cleaning clamps as a AMA service/tow driver. A lot of times, they didn't even need a boost once they were cleaned.
It's a two way street, can't get juice out, can't put juice in. Clean connections and keep resistance low. A lot of times, a full charge and the "bad" battery was fine.
@@patrickbuick5459 I got home from work once and a friend called, "my car won't start and I am stuck at...." . I drive 15miles and end up tightening battery connectors.......annoying when I know he should know at least that much. :)
@@patrickbuick5459 NAPA has a good battery post protective stuff in spray can...works great!
😄
@@raybin6873 I know, but unless I carried it for the customers, it would be them.that needs it. I run AGM sealed batteries now, so no more green fuzziness.
Your a Legend Ray. I showed my wife your vids because I enjoy them so much. She picked up the Rad cap and I thought that was great because I didn't. Glad you didn't forget it. Hope the owners father watch your vid to show that the battery was stuffed. It probably didn't need the alt the previous gut replaced.
All the way from Australia 🇦🇺 love your work!
Ten cents it was the dad that did the first wrench throwing in the first place. He’s just pissed that you broke the veil in front of her eyes!
Yea Dad got his ego bruised.
Exactly what I was thinking.
i was going to say the same thing...
Doubtful. The woman is too busy partying in college to care who fixes what or doesn't fix. She just wants her next appltini with sausage.
@@etherealrose2139 🤣👌 right
It was so refreshing to see a piece of older machinery with more recognizable parts and less plastic and tubes and hoses!!
Appearing To leave the cap off generated soooo many comments. Great for getting that comment to view ratio up. Good job 👍
I reacted to that as well
I misidentified stuff just to annoy people in some of my videos. Call it a sealed head ratchet when it's not. They lose their minds
Another great video. Never fails to amaze me the amount of codes that dead batteries throw up on modern cars.
I saw that cap laying off to the side of the tank when he shut the hood too....rainman will fix it I'm sure!!
I noticed that too.
someone didn't watch till the very end of the video. ha
Thanks, simply old guy here. Love your work and your intent. I share in in your joy. Can’t put a price on a craftsman.
It ain't easy being a mechanic as there are so many dodgy ones out there ripping people off.So when you do good, your work is not appreciated by some.
Like all tradies,finding a good,reliable,respectable AND honest one ain't easy.
And now with Google and UA-cam everyone is an expert
That’s what makes you the man! You don’t give up even when there’s no money in it you still do the morally correct thing! Many mechanics would have simply told the customer they need a new battery and terminals. Then diagnosed the problem if there still was one. I admire that you carry those work ethics. I did the same when I was a woodworker.
After you charged the battery, I was wondering why you put the clamps back on before testing it, lol
and why use those sorry type of clamps!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@@edwardbaker4824 the ones on the battery cables? They are OEM.
@@bindthedevilloosetheangels oem or not they are garbage.
Hey, on the battery tester...... And sorry if this has been said already but there are over 1500 comments already and I haven't read them all. Each clamp has two separate circuits between the battery and the tester. There are a total of 4 wires, two to positive and two to negative. The opposing jaws of each clamp are an independent circuit. One side of the clamp applies a load to the battery, and the other side measures voltage before, during, and after the load is applied. Each side of each clamp must be gripping the battery post directly and separately. No matter how clean the battery terminal clamps are, this tester won't give accurate readings, or won't work at all if it is clamped onto the battery cable end. It has to be clamped directly on the battery post.
Videos like this make me feel like less of an idiot when I do something simple 10 times in a row....Keep up the good work man I really enjoy your videos
I was wondering why he reconnected the battery before testing it again.
This dude has no business repairing anything
I had the same year Explorer with all the same problems. Finding a excellent automotive technician like Rays is almost impossible.
Those battery terminals could use some cleaning. I've resolved many charging problems by just doing proper battery service (Distilled Water) and cleaning/replacing terminals.
Honestly a lot of times batteries have been charged poorly and have a loose plating full of bubbles rather than a nice solid plate. I've found if you fully discharge the battery then charge it on a current limiting power supply at like 15v with a .05A or less you cab keep batteries alive far longer. The higher voltage with limited current helps rebuild the plate in a nice solid layer.
NO THEY NEED REPLACING...THOSE AR ETHE WORST KIND!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Somehow I get the feeling Ray just reeled in a TON of fish with this video. So many caught that cap idea but so many more are ripping him about the way he handled the battery testing. From all of his past videos it is pretty obvious that this HAD to be a gag video. Ray is a far better mechanic than that. As for the girl's father, he should be declared a health hazard not just to his daughter but to everybody she gets near to on the road after he "fixes" things on that vehicle!
You're a bad man, Ray! Telling a 21 yo she needs a battery when clearly it was the Explorer that needed it! Well, maybe she does need one....
The problem was he said it needed a battery when all it really needed was a car.
@@InsideOfMyOwnMind I was about to say that
Hahaha, different type of battery. Actually her >dad
Best comment ever
Gigity.
I love the sound effects...On another note, I was having issues with a 6 month old battery in my 2008 Kia Sportage. No cranky, no lights. I have a dashcam that I have to plug into the cig. lighter and sometimes forget to unplug it. I thought I killed the battery so I hooked my trickle charger to it, it had worked like a charm in the past but the, "charging" light on the charger would NOT come on and the battery wouldn't take a charge. The terminals had next to no corrosion but I had nowhere else to look. Took off the terminal clamp, scraped them out, put some dielectric grease on them and reassembled...voila!
Dang, how dare you diagnose and repair the 21yo's when the dad had just repaired it the day before. Haha
I've watched this one more than once. The battery segment is hilarious.
I live my job so much, I do it seven times... Lol
Yeah the onboard car electronics can cause battery testers to get confused, always best to remove them from circuit.
You know that you're getting old when you watch a video and think, "That's a quality extension cord!" God, what happened - I used to be young and cool!
Love the cord, laugh at its silly, wimpy and and unsafe connectors (and the wall outlet). Yeah, I'm both old and not living in the US.
Well... I changed 2 batteries on a Massey ferguson and removed two shovel full of dirt from the tray since the cover is long gone ... It's a dirty job but someone's gotta do it.. And it doesn't help that the guy who ordered the new batteries got the plus and minus side mixed... Even with pictures of the original batteries
If someone needs a pic of a previous battery in order to put in a new one, dont let them near your car
@@BuffaloBilliam Or your Tractor, Lawn Mower, TV Remote...
@@jaxcell Just don't let them anywhere near you, let alone any of your vehicles and equipment.
And I bet that still did not fix the flat tyre.
We can't forget old tractors/cars/trucks can be a little different in the battery compartment with things like 6v to 12v conversions, floating grounds, some had backwards color coded battery cables from the oem, retrofitting of other than original batteries due to discontinued battery models... etc. etc.
I love the music on this video! Had me laughing out loud! Great job as always.
I'm old school, I guess, but I would have checked the electrolyte level in the old battery. You will sometimes find the plates partially uncovered which reduces the capacity of the battery. Add distilled water, nothing else.
Considering the age of the battery. Best to replace.
@zeddy mcdog Stop the video at 4:58. See that thing that says DANGER/POISON? That's a plastic cap you can flip off with a flat blade screwdriver. Underneath you will find three cells where you can check and adjust the electrolyte level by adding distilled water. It is the easiest possible thing to do and used to be considered routine battery maintenance. If this were your own battery and the plates were uncovered you might try buying $1.00 of distilled water before buying a new battery.
@zeddy mcdog can you please clarify dirty power in regards to batteries
@zeddy mcdog There are plenty of serviceable flooded batteries still in use like the one in the video. The only thing you ever add to them is distilled water, you never add acid after the original charge. And yes, a battery with low electrolyte and partially uncovered plates can be restored to some extent with the addition of distilled water to the correct level. I thought you might appreciate learning something simple that might save you a few bucks. Mechanics don't do it because then they lose a battery sale and they don't want comebacks.
@@mikeb.7068 Actually you can add acid if needed. But if needed, something else is probably wrong. You need a proper tester for knowing when and how much acid/water to add. They don't even teach that anymore.
Love all the AvE references in your videos, between the two of you the entertainment is near endless.
Before all the fancy diagnostics, a visual inspection is always a good place to start. The unplugged MAF was a simple fix. Once watched a video where a F150 was in "limp home" mode. The guy checked all the PID's and then got out the voltmeter checking different places on the harness ... until he finally got to the wire that was melted onto the exhaust manifold, shorting and grounding.
Makes me glad I switched to an electric
@@richardscathouse see you in 5 years
This exact scenario happened on my raptor... i had just put in an engine and left the harness against the exhaust manifold by mistake. I was thanking my lucky stars that I didn't need a new transmission valve body.
Dad mad because HE left MAF unplugged 😆. Love how Ray was OCD to test battery, and tool didn't like the corroded clamps. Win/Win. The battery didn't sound that bad; it was low due to 5000 cranking cycles due to MAF connector causing stalling. Excellent editing 👍.
I facepalmed when he put on the battery connectors so he can fail the test again and unplug it once more :D.
Not to mention the metric shit ton of rust on the post connectors "gee, i wonder why this tester won't connect to the battery through rust?"
Damn terminals are as rusty as the Titanic.. You expect a connection.
Armchair mechanics in this thread
@@zromo8994 I've done a LOT of work on my cars over a lot of years, including doing most of the work on my Jeep XJ that I've had for 25 years and over 500k miles. Those terminals badly needed cleaning, he could have done a quick cleaning in less time then he spent fooling around with those clamps.
@@JeffDeWitt He mentions on another comment that he already performed a cleaning. The connectors were just junk as they so often become in those sheet metal ones
We know the Cap was there because he opened it up and looked in.. It was sitting there.. He's playing with us.. What a damn good mechanic this guy is. He's got the right tools. Good tools make for a good mechanic. good job man.....
Loving the dramatic music at the unstable battery pop up......i think i laughed too hard at that!!!
I really enjoyed the suspensful 1970's TV show sound effects. I was glued to my seat..lol
The check engine light didn't turn its self off. Unplugging the battery cleared the codes.
Depends on the codes. Some are short term storage in volatile memory. Others are stored on non-volatile memory so that they can still be seen in the history. Depending on how the ECU is programmed, the loose connector may be a temporary code that clears when rectified, or probably after power cycling as you say. It's probably still in the stored though, as a historic code in the non-volatile memory. (Until cleared by a scantool.)
@@NemoConsequentae unless you have a brand new car, unplugging the battery is going to reset the check engine light every single time. They are called "hard codes" and will remain in the computer and will not set the check engine light. When you restart the car and what ever module says there was a problem, sees that the problem has not been rectified then I will set the check engine light again. A lot of emission and engine codes will stay hard set until after the car has been driven for a period of time, in which the module will clear itself after a certain amount of time has gone by with no issues detected. That's why unplugging your battery to clear your light before an emission test doesn't work and most of the time the light comes back on before you get there.
@@m2rkiller Agreed. And even after the light is off, that emission code is stored in the non-volatile memory as a history code that can be pulled up.
Liked the sound effects, excellent. I was waiting for you to give that Mas Air connection your patented click when you plugged it back in.
Dad wanted something for nothing, wanted it done yesterday, and don't forget unrealistic expectations.
Not all the story is being shared. Asshole mechanic here likely charged 3 hours of labor. They do that.
@@whereisthehook ah you are probably the type of customer that blames a tech for everything wrong with their car .
I just ate at Old Packing house yesterday...! Their burgers are great...!!! Thanks again... Keep up your awesomeness...
Automatic transmissions (or as I call them, awful magic), can also be started in neutral. It helps to flip between directions, That's how I deal with rough idlers.
90% of the time if the alternator has failed it has worked the battery to death its very rare a new alternator is fitted before its killed the battery ,
its either under charged or overcharged = dead
Enjoyable video. You trolled everyone including yourself. Except the 21 yo daughter. Had a great laugh and thoughts about the content as I have been there myself. Great job.
HAHAHA The poor tester was set for out of vehicle. The noise from being hooked up caused the fail testing issue....
The main reason I got out of working on cars in the repair shop environment was the customers. Now I do customization work and am able to pick and choose my clients. Yes, I have seen a few mechanics that would try to rip off their own mom and that was the other reason. Lastly I hated working with service writers as most of the time there was communication issues and many service writers can quote specs like horsepower rating but actually know nothing about cars in a way that matters.
I call those "cant walk the talk" types
One look at the battery was all I needed to know... They put in a 90 day warranty battery that was the cheapest one in the store, and then get all upset when it fails.
You havent made a video yet that I'm not glued too, love the passion you have for what you do
Never laughed so hard.. Maybe clean the battery terminal clamps. As them things were corroded on the inside...
Better to just replace the cheap things
VERY compelling with a fine soundtrack. TWO THUMBS UP !
I was yelling "Mass Air Flow Sensor!" as you fought to get it into.the shop.
I had mine fail at work on a mk 2 Ford Sierra once. It took so long to get it to my mechanic friend. Had no idea what was causing it to buck & die like that. It must've taken 45 minutes to do the mile or so to his garage.
Anyway, I was a sweaty heap when I got there & when he just unplugged a connector & it suddenly ran well enough to use so I could get to the scrappy to get a 2nd hand one it was one of those "WTF!" moments.
So, if this ever happens to you. Those symptoms at the start of the video are very idiosyncratic of the MAFS failing.
Just unplug it. The car will run well enough to get you gone or to find a MAFS in a scrapyard. It's a fine piece of wire that's heated by it's resistance. It's placed in the air intake & by the amount of cooling that takes place as air rushes past it (it's resistance changes with temperature) the computer can calculate how much air is coming into the intake.
This fine wire can break or, more often, get dirty & fail. When you unplug it the computer takes a guess and it'll get you home.
You did the right thing.Your a professional & people should respect what you tell them! Have a great weekend 🎉
I like how you had one difficulty on the old lady’s car and replaced her battery terminals immediately, but suffered through “unstable connection” alerts on this one and left the rusted out terminals on. Lol, problem of the day
Uncanny right? It's almost as if is playing dumb for content...
@@jarrettguthrie1670 true ... complains about the time but he's the one wasting it lol
Turned itself off and unhooked battery. I love it!
“Taking advantage of a 21 yr old”. I could have sworn that meant you were an adult. Maybe I’m just old fashion…
He was clearly trying to shake him down for a discount and get some money back..
Even back when I was 20, if my parents tried to muscle into my dealings with the people I'm hiring with my own money to repair my own shit, I'd tell them to jog on. I don't think highly of these adults who can barely tie their own shoelaces without getting daddy involved.
@@Stettafire hmmm I have a nephew like that, mother does everything for the poor little dear.
its a shame that you get the brunt of the angry ignorant customers from dealing with so many dishonest crappy mechanics...then they take it out on you. I hope these videos help you navigate some of those situations. also it is very refreshing to see a laid back, honest, and thorough mechanic. it is certainly rare. this is why I do 1 of 3 things when dealing with mechanic work. I either A) do it myself, B) have the dealer do it under warranty if that's the case, or C) have a close friend that you trust that owns a shop do it.
or if you're lucky enough to find a mechanic like yourself, hold on to it! and never let go JACK!
Try testing with "In Vehicle" settings selected next time, if it's actually connected to the vehicle.
I saw that in 4th test. Cables are also very dirty. Also, you need to learn how to properly disconnect and reconnect a battery. Disconnect neg first and connect neg last.
@@jeffs4576
And the battery place I was at recently, they had a standard little 9V battery that they clipped to wires before disconnecting.
This preserved the radio presets and the radio going into theft mode.
Electrical Engineer’s note. Don’t connect a 9V battery to a car battery for long.
The battery will be trying really hard to “charge”the primary celled (not rechargeable) 9V.
I’m thinking battery hot. Really hot. Start to bloat. One of the end caps blows. The case ruptures. All the magic smoke comes out.
I guess you could put a (schottky) diode in one of the test probe leads, but I don’t think they did.
I mentioned it to the dude. He’s just doing it like his boss told him to do it.
LOL I was gonna mention the cap but I’m glad I gave you the benefit of the doubt for 60 seconds! Great channel. You speak my garage language, with such phrases as “test, you ffkin Pisa schitt.” And “son of a...doodle.”
"How about you fix it yourself dad"
Honestly trying to sell someone a battery wouldn't be anything suspicious at all. The suspicious upselling comes when there's a long ass laundry list of shit presented to them and "recommended" they fix it.
You'd think you'd be surprised that people actually need a bunch of stuff fixed on their vehicles. But it really is the truth. 90% of the vehicles 5 years or older on the road, typically need a laundry list of crap fixed on them. Because nobody takes care of their vehicles.
yeah either ppl dont take care of their cars or they just don't know. Its better to tell the customer what you see that need some attention. Explain what needs to be done, and what can be put off for now. Its not suspicious at all when you can show them the worn tie rod end, leaking hose, cracked serpentine belt, uneven tire wear, worn pads etc....
@@JosephArata Not surprised at all, I deliver auto parts, I see all kinds of shit.
I take care of mine and run the fuck out of it, it needs plenty but nothing dire, isn't a hunk of shit either, however.
Over the years I have learned to clean my battery and terminals. A dirty battery will slowly discharge and if you jumpstart it, it’s only a matter of time until it will fail. I had them last over 10 years.
Problem is the lead composition of newer batteries has changed in the last 25 yrs and they don't last nearly as long anymore... Heck the factory original battery in my 93 dodge d350 diesel truck still tested within specs when I replaced it at 25 yrs old when I bought the truck... The new battery failed at just 2 yrs old.
Your battery tester was set to "out of vehicle" instead of "in vehicle". Once you removed the leads it then worked because it matched that tester's settings.
Lol if that's what happened.
Battery either underseat or trunk or in boat
From my experience with testers like that, "in vehicle" just means it will will ask the user to perform a series of actions like turning on the headlights, starting the engine, rev it to a specific RPM et c. Basically, it tests the battery under load and the charging system.
"Out of vehicle" is correct if you only want to test the battery, regardless of whether it's located in an engine bay or in your attic. Leads connected or not doesn't matter.
@@Spurdospaerde692 you’re correct
No matter how hard you tried, all I could focus on was the battery label that read:
"Warranty: 90 Days"
Broooooo they battery tester bit had me stright dying. I am glad to see I am not alone. In b4 DM complains that not enough work orders have battery test slips attached.
Great Production tactics LMAO Love the ending!! Thanks Ray!
Ray is a awesome mechanic i did notice when he closed the hood the antifreeze over fill jug cap was not on i dont know if he took it off or if it came in shop like that ✌
He forgot to put it back on. It has low coolant.
It says at the end of the video that he didn't forget. He was just trolling us.
It's called a coolant reservoir cap lol
If you watched the vid you saw him take the cap off.
"Luv my job so much, I do it seven times!" Cracked me up!
Of course the check engine light is of, you disconnect the battery for an hour, after about 10 min usually its gone.
I like it when he says: STAY. Like he is commanding a dog. :)
“I know this is a lot of work for a free battery test” couldn’t be more truthful.
Actually, he could've saved a lot of hassle by not being lazy the first time. A quick wire brush (I use a drill with a wire wheel) can get the majority of that corrosion and rust off and have a stable connection for testing. It only takes 30 seconds. Shit, where I work (similar job but on two wheels), it's pretty much standard and expected.
@@charlestannehill7537 honestly if it says charge and the battery is older than 4 years I recommend to the customer. Mainly because the agm batteries on Mercedes always go out on year 4 with a few stragglers making it to 5 years, at the same time we cater to people that drive Mercedes and they rather replace the battery than have to deal with a car that won’t crank and need to call Mercedes road side and wait 1hr
@@yepyepyepyep1407 I stay away from German vehicles. Had a 750i for a few years, and it always seemed to have the weirdest most expensive fails of all time. Nice while new, but once 100k hits, it almost feels like planned obsolescence. Yes, I did all the repairs myself (thermostat, idrive system and audio amp, the mechatronic system on the trans, etc.), but it was still a hassle. Now I stick with my Chevy's.
@@charlestannehill7537 yeah German cars are a hassle after 80k miles, and people complain I tell them to dump it but they don’t want to. I have a e320 cdi which is a bulletproof drivetrain but all the electronic fail and it’s expensive enough with my discount
@@yepyepyepyep1407 the main item I didn't like was that the 750i only came in automatic, but the 550i came in manual as an option. The trans was the biggest problem with the 750i. Motor was solid. Hit 190k and it was still going strong with basic maintenance. If the 750i had the same manual option, I would've kept it. I loved everything about that car except the trans.
I like all of your videos, before even watching, while the ad is running. 🤙🏻
The call from dad. Definitely my favorite. "Yeah I took advantage of your daughter. In the back seat!!"
Saved her from her virginity? 👿
@@richardscathouse 21 yr old?? i hardly doubt it, how do you think she paid for that battery Gigidy Gigidy XD
You didn't do the proper checking process. You completely left the coolant cap off, Priceless!!!!!!
Technically in the video it clearly shows that you closed the hood with the cap still off. So I assume you lifted the hood topped up the coolant and then put the cap on, off camera.
You got it back on without having to replace the cap? Dang on a Taurus when you leave it off and close the hood it gets crushed and have to end up having to replace it
In Germany and in all Mazda - Service books it is not allowed to connect the black - terminal before the red one is properly tightened ...
I havent used the snapon tester but several other dealer branded versions and I was curious if you had the unstable battery warning because you had selected "out of vehicle" test. I had run into that problem selecting out of vehicle battery test when connected due to the small draw the modules pull so the voltage wasnt stable. I could be wrong, just a potential reason for the headache. of course having to "charge and retest" is another waste of time. Great content broseph.
Out of vehicle test on the GM tester did that if you did not unhook the cables almost every time. There is always voltage passing if cables are hooked up.
I hate that new digical crap. I still have a carbon pile tester in my shop. Damn thing is pushing 70 years old but it still works and you don't have to go through 79 menus to get it to do it's job.
@@That_AMC_Guy Same here . I use mine very infrequently being retired and I dont have to worry about internal batteries failing or mother boards corroding. My old carbon pile hangs on the wall and works rain or sine
Its amazing what checking connections under the hood can fix....I bet dear ole dad changed the alternator and radiator.
As for his complaining..tell him to watch this video...it doesnt lie🙂 Keep up the great work Ray!!
I like Ford but that "Ford Exploder" thing had me cracking up!
Your young. Apparently. Ford has some "explosive" issues. Like a bolt😁😁
It was originally because Ford had issues with exploding tires at highway speeds causing rollovers... Started the Ford/Firestone tire debacle which was actually found to be Fords fault as they changed the doorjam tire pressure sticker from 35psi to 25psi to attempt to make the explorer ride better but it would also overflex and overheat the tires causing them to blow apart... I fixed many EXPLODER tires with a sharpie on that sticker
That was fuuuun to watch 😁👍.
Thx for the video dude 🙂
I'm a firm believer that the engine light went off because you disconnected the battery. There is no way the car cycled enough to clear airflow sensor code on its own without driving for several many miles!
Unplugged-sensor codes can clear right away depending on which sensor and which vehicle. No need to go through the drive-cycle for the electronics to see that it's getting a voltage signal instead of an open circuit.
Liked the sound effects so much I watch it 7 times.
Ever notice that the painted panel just under the rear window is always split on that generation of Exploder? I call it the Explorer butt-crack!
#Expolder what you get with Ford
Home of the Pinto
What were the old saying's? Oh yes, "If you can't afford a Dodge, dodge a Ford", "Fix Or Repair Daily" or "F****d On Race Day".
@@RobertSmith-bc9uk Flip Over Read Directions
Warning flipping this vehicle may be hazardous to your health. ;)
Not sure if it was mentioned yet, but the battery tester showed an "out of vehicle" test. The unstableness was likely the vehicle drawing current when the tester wasn't expecting it. My tester at work does the same things.
Dont you love when people buy stop leak from autozone and put it in their system unknowingly destroying it. Including your gauges when you hook em up.
Just went through that with a customer. Made sure I documented the stop leak.
....and then loose the cap for the AC port!
@@sunbeam8866 or have a shade tree schmuck leave the caps off for more ease of gas permeation through the schrader valve seals. All so he can charge for "recharges".
@@JosephArata Didn't know that was a 'thing'. Just figured some lazy schmuck set the loose cap on the inner fender or some other risky spot. Then it fell and was lost forever, way underneath somewhere. Sometimes, when I'm in a salvage-yard getting a part, I'll grab extra caps and other small items that are often easily 'lost'!
Awesome snap on battery testor. I'm so glad my el- cheapo one works the first time every time.
Hmm Ray, the mechanic, taking advantage of a 21 y/o girl, not plugged in all the way, 2 man job...the makings of a porn video...
My first look at the battery showed me rusted-corroded clamps on the battery cables. Battery had not charged properly in some time- ruined it. Ray never cleaned those connections!
Have just seen this video for the first time. I find it funny that the battery in your battery tester is low. Oh, the irony.
I once use a DMM to repair a DMM. That was really ironic.
Perhaps in an Alanis Morissette kind of way. You might need to review the actual definition of irony.
I love the sound effects, this is a great one. 😂
Yes yes, very good scam ray, well done sir! Also I love that you are trolling people with that cap 🤣🤣
I think I’m going to do this all the time! 🤪🤣
@@RainmanRaysRepairs it would be like little Easter eggs in your videos, the channel lore is expanding 🤣🤣
@@RainmanRaysRepairs Yeah, do a little sneaker in each video, just to keep them on their toes!!
For those not mechanically minded, Rays videos show them how things should be done.
Let's be honest here, he definitely forgot the cap and only noticed it after he went to replace the battery.
"NO I DIDN'T FORGET THAT CAP" lol. Keep up the good work bud. I wish I knew a mech like yourself. I would feel very confident in giving my vehicle to you for repair. I worked around cars all my life (I'm now 78) and my official trade was as a car upholstery guy but the cars of today really scare me. I refer to them as rolling computers. The average Joe can't 'tinker' with their cars anymore. I have a 2015 Chrysler 200 with the 3.6 engine and my only recourse is to take it to the dealership for repair.
I say screw those electronic battery testers and just use a load tester!!!! You'd be done by now. lol
Some shops require a print out for warranty on previously sold batteries. It's becoming more common than you think. Carbon pile load tester is fine, but it can't print out a read out of all the specs like Reserve Capacity of the battery.
Don't even need a load tester. Fully charged battery, put your volt meter on it and crank the engine. If voltage drops below 10.5, battery is bad.
I'm the proud owner of a vintage 1999 Explorer. I felt your pain with that battery. I think there is some flaw in the design for that. Mine is V8 AWD and for the 1st year every 4 months the #4 plug would foul. After 2 different shops "fixed it", the guy at the auto parts said to change the coils.......guess what that did. Fixed it!
The bonehead dad will be back wanting to know "what you screwed up while you were changing the battery" in six months or less when the rear timing chain snaps and falls in the oil pan! 4.0 sohc isn't worth the time and resources it took to repair.
@Dude with Opinion my family had one that I'm pretty sure got over 500k out of it. I don't know for sure bc the odometer broke at 287k. But it was driven everywhere for about 8 years after that.
@Dude with Opinion The 4.0 OHV is a good if unremarkable engine, but the SOHC 4.0 in this video isn't as good or long lived as the OHV. Better performer though.
@Dude with Opinion, my 2010 Ranger Sport has that 4.0 and still running like new. It gets regular oil changes and checkups. If that truck can get traction that engine will pull it, as evidenced by the number of trailer loads of trees and debris I hauled after Hurricane Michael tried to remove my part of the state from all maps.
How are so many people complaining about those battery terminals. Have you ever seen corroded battery terminals? These are perfectly fine in the video.
10:30 The CE reset after the battery was disconnected for however long it was charging for which is followed immediately by 10:35 where you closed the hood with the coolant reservoir open and the cap still sitting on the air filter.
I was in a small "WTF" moment until the end when I saw the text.
Hi Rainman Ray i was watching your work at 3 AM and made me subscribe you. You are very interesting guy in your skills. Thank you for your videos. It gives viewers lots of knowledge
If you were going to rip off a young person, it would be a lot more than just a new battery!🤦
I don’t even like battery jobs.
The schmoo that collects on top of the battery case is conductive. If it manages to bridge the terminals it can allow the battery to self-discharge pretty quick, and a chronically low state of charge es no bueno for longevity. Don't know if the schmoo had anything to do with the tester's "unstable battery" histrionics, but usually the first thing I do is get the top of the case relatively clean and dry before moving on. To be fair, the battery (while marginal) might last a while longer yet. Don't need all them Cold Cranking Amps in Florida. But I certainly wouldn't say you were trying to rip them off.
Lol, more trolls in the comments than a Harry Potter movie. Oh, and we are just gonna ignore the blue Model A? Love the videos, keep it up.
It looked beautiful on camera from what was visible
My first thought was upper and lower intake o-rings because of the difficult cold start and feathering the gas to keep it running and you said that you needed it to warm up to pull it onto the shop.
Had to replace the ontake o-rings on a 2000 Ford Explorer. Nice amount of work to replace $6 worth of o-rings.