Very helpful. I personally usually never comment on videos whatsoever but I was struggling for a long time with this car in particular. I'd say that I'm a competent driver but I don't have the largest understanding of the tuning in GT7. That's why I wanted to give you my gratitude. Keep going on taming these untamable vehicles. Greetings from Germany.
Indeed, the explanations were very helpful. I have a weak understanding of tuning, too, but I might try the 930 out of the box and experiment, but also use these tunes for copies! Great video.
Perfect setup, thank you very much. Except for the gearbox, I have adopted everything and tested it on 3 tracks, I will test the Nürburgring later. I can report: no problems at all. You should remain vigilant, but the Porsche is finally driving really well!
I love this series! how you explain each setting is really helpful and appreciated! + how you go through the settings makes you my no 1 choice compared to the other channels. I’m also a controller user and since the latest update some of my older favourite cars handling has suffered. I’d love to see you set up the older 911 carrera RS’s and also the R32/R33/R34 engine swaps. Keep up the great work.
I am not looking forward to the 1970's Carrera RS. Even without the engine swap, that car does not like racing tyres. Really annoying that PD didn't add a rear wing option for downforce.
@@fossilfueled27 agree, it really needed better wing options, this One could be untameable?! I’m hoping we see you add the 993 95’ RS’s as since the update mine are no longer fun to drive. Keep em’ coming 😁
This is VERY similar to how I tamed the 930. However, you made one massive mistake that was doing a lot of damage to your handling (hence, some of jittery/bouncy characteristics around The Ring). When you maxed out the front suspension, I thought there goes the entire tune. You never want to MAX out the springs (either end of the spectrum). Your general concept is spot on, but you don't have to go to such extremes. This car handles like a dream with much less extreme tuning. Especially for the Nurburgring, you want a softer spring/shock setup (compared to what you have there), to help the car be more predictable under stress, instead of "twitchy" at the limit. To each their own, of course. Just giving my .02 cents as a LONG time Gran Turismo player. Take that as you will.
Thanks for the tip. I tried reducing the frequency at the front to 3.20 and then 3.00, but it simply made the front end too grippy and responsive, and made the lift-off oversteer worse. I also tried reducing the rear frequency to compensate but it didn't help. Honestly I prefer my set-up. It's affected by the kerbs slightly more, but it has more tendency towards slight understeer which makes it easier to drive for me. Always a matter of personal preference though - your settings will suit some people more than mine, and vice versa.
@@fossilfueled27 Honestly, it sounds like a driving style issue, rather than settings. Maxing out the front springs WILL make the car more unstable. PERIOD. Having tested this since my previous post, I can confidently say lowering the front spring rate made the car FAR more predictable, and LESS prone to lift off oversteer. It's about overall balance. To each their own, of course, but my tests have proven this to be accurate, in my experience. Again, you do you. I'm just saying.
@@ShonnDaylee Again, I tried it too. It didn't help me. Different strokes for different folks. Doesn't mean my driving is bad, nor yours, and it doesn't mean my settings are bad, same with yours. I'd happily try your full set-up to see if it's simply that lowering the natural frequency didn't work with the rest of my set-up, but like I said, I found lowering the front spring rates made it slightly less predictable.
Funnily enough this swap is quite brilliant with the factory 4 speed gearbox, and people have been using that a lot lately considering that the gearing is quite tall.
I love this car, I don't have a ballast and slightly softer suspension on mine, pretty close to stock, but it is such a joy to drive on any sports to racing hard tires. I find any tires above racing hard make this car too twitchy. Same thing with my Lancia Stratos, although that's easier on racing soft tires imo.
It actually works very nicely if you tune it for 700PP since it'll have no turbo, and some front ballast, and to be fair it works decent on the 800PP Sardegna race too, since the track is relatively simple.
I find adding 80 kilos of ballast at the extreme front towards the front wheels also dramatically helps reduce the pendulum effect found in RR vehicles ***me from the future*** i left this comment before watching the full video and seeing that you did indeed add ballast
That was common for people to do that with older 911s back then to keep the front end from lifting at high speeds or spinning out of control. Whatever had a lot of mass behind it worked well for ballast.
This was amazing! Very good intel. I’ve been struggling like crazy with the Porsche 959 engine swapped, maybe you should try and tame that one, thanks!
@@fossilfueled27 sorry i just checked and my grammar was wrong lol and I also though it had a different engine than the og but I was confused. Nvm that, I actually meant the Porsche 959 fully tuned
As much as I love the track, I'd hate to be that guy who artificially makes their videos longer for no reason. That's the main reason I trim so much of it.
Would appreciate one with either the FC or FD. Terrible lift off oversteer in the FC but would to see if what I’ve done is close to what you can accomplish.
Today i drove this car 150 km on the Nordschleife in order to tune it properly! I think the most important is that you need to put some weight in the front and skip the wide rims. I didn’t tought that wide rims can destroy the handling especially in case of race tires!
I had this issue with the F40. I increased the torque and stroke to reduce the max rpm. Stock air and muffler. Then you down shift early. When it's about to go crazy.
I think the downforce settings should be a ratio, not a fixed number. For example, when you say the front downforce should be 100 lower than the rear. The front downforce should be a percentage of the rear.
Sure, with something like a Gr.3 or Gr.1 car where the downforce numbers are so much higher, a ratio makes sense, but the majority of road cars get downforce numbers between 100 and 300, so a 100 point difference usually works. Obviously there's a couple of exceptions like this 930.
I think there is something very wrong with road car suspension/ physics right now. I understand rubbing on the wheel wells does happen in real life and cars can have body role, but my god certain rode cars just start jumping randomly it seems. I’ve been driving the gallardo on eiger and Dayton and for starters it needs a completely different tune for each track, not to be competitive but just be be drivable it randomly jumps on certain corners of elevation changes. I’m sure other cars are being affected. Now I am all for a good tune, but NEEDING to tune just to drive a track aids and I’m not trying to have 6 sheets per car with duplicate cars so I can drive all the tracks.
The Gallardo has a problem mainly due to the power it makes fully upgraded. It's no doubt a glitch but the car hops and bounces under hard acceleration. I'm pretty sure it's a tame version of all those videos of flying Samba Busses, so it should hopefully be cured in the next update. Meanwhile, cars like this Porsche 930 have always been very difficult to drive in GT7, as they are in real life.
I really love how yoi talk ie "it's complete toss" and "making me look like a twat " in the bm vid. Make you sound like one if my mates instead of some youtuber ❤
Not quite as well. The '73 has a huge problem because you can't fit a rear wing. I'll give it a try at some point to see if I can tame it. I strongly recommend not bothering with the 959 swap on it though. It's terrifying enough on the stock engine.
It can be used, but I'd recommend a de-tuned group C car personally. Or something like a Skyline R32, which has similar performance but 4WD, much easier to handle.
@@LaZdiZorro I've just released a video on the C4, and it's a lot easier to drive than the Porsche, but it reaches such crazy speeds, it can be hard to manage. The 400R would probably make most sense.
I love your video! Your driving style at the Nordschleife reminded me of this video: ua-cam.com/video/OSMCfPASImQ/v-deo.html&pp=ygUXeWVsbG93YmlyZCBuw7xyYnVyZ3Jpbmc%3D So maybe you can make a video how to tame the yellowbird (I guess some of the same settings apply ). I tried a yellowbird car mod for assetto Corsa but it was undrivable on the ring. :-(
A Yellowbird replica honestly isn't too difficult to drive since it's just a case of adding a big turbo to the standard 930 turbo with the stock tyres. It slides a heck of a lot but because everything happens so much slower, it's easier to predict the car will do next.
This setup changed that car from undriveable to one of my favorites! Thanks so much man, keep up the series.
Very helpful. I personally usually never comment on videos whatsoever but I was struggling for a long time with this car in particular. I'd say that I'm a competent driver but I don't have the largest understanding of the tuning in GT7. That's why I wanted to give you my gratitude. Keep going on taming these untamable vehicles. Greetings from Germany.
Indeed, the explanations were very helpful. I have a weak understanding of tuning, too, but I might try the 930 out of the box and experiment, but also use these tunes for copies! Great video.
Life saver! Always had an issue understanding suspension tuning, as more isnt always better with this. Please keep them coming.
Perfect setup, thank you very much. Except for the gearbox, I have adopted everything and tested it on 3 tracks, I will test the Nürburgring later. I can report: no problems at all. You should remain vigilant, but the Porsche is finally driving really well!
I love this series! how you explain each setting is really helpful and appreciated! + how you go through the settings makes you my no 1 choice compared to the other channels. I’m also a controller user and since the latest update some of my older favourite cars handling has suffered. I’d love to see you set up the older 911 carrera RS’s and also the R32/R33/R34 engine swaps. Keep up the great work.
I am not looking forward to the 1970's Carrera RS. Even without the engine swap, that car does not like racing tyres. Really annoying that PD didn't add a rear wing option for downforce.
@@fossilfueled27 agree, it really needed better wing options, this One could be untameable?! I’m hoping we see you add the 993 95’ RS’s as since the update mine are no longer fun to drive. Keep em’ coming 😁
This is VERY similar to how I tamed the 930. However, you made one massive mistake that was doing a lot of damage to your handling (hence, some of jittery/bouncy characteristics around The Ring). When you maxed out the front suspension, I thought there goes the entire tune. You never want to MAX out the springs (either end of the spectrum). Your general concept is spot on, but you don't have to go to such extremes. This car handles like a dream with much less extreme tuning. Especially for the Nurburgring, you want a softer spring/shock setup (compared to what you have there), to help the car be more predictable under stress, instead of "twitchy" at the limit. To each their own, of course. Just giving my .02 cents as a LONG time Gran Turismo player. Take that as you will.
Thanks for the tip. I tried reducing the frequency at the front to 3.20 and then 3.00, but it simply made the front end too grippy and responsive, and made the lift-off oversteer worse. I also tried reducing the rear frequency to compensate but it didn't help. Honestly I prefer my set-up. It's affected by the kerbs slightly more, but it has more tendency towards slight understeer which makes it easier to drive for me. Always a matter of personal preference though - your settings will suit some people more than mine, and vice versa.
@@fossilfueled27 Honestly, it sounds like a driving style issue, rather than settings. Maxing out the front springs WILL make the car more unstable. PERIOD. Having tested this since my previous post, I can confidently say lowering the front spring rate made the car FAR more predictable, and LESS prone to lift off oversteer. It's about overall balance. To each their own, of course, but my tests have proven this to be accurate, in my experience. Again, you do you. I'm just saying.
@@ShonnDaylee Again, I tried it too. It didn't help me. Different strokes for different folks. Doesn't mean my driving is bad, nor yours, and it doesn't mean my settings are bad, same with yours. I'd happily try your full set-up to see if it's simply that lowering the natural frequency didn't work with the rest of my set-up, but like I said, I found lowering the front spring rates made it slightly less predictable.
If only all comment exchanges were as productive.
@@fossilfueled27 some people can only see things through their own perspectives and can't fathom that different works great for others
This was fantastic. I would love to see this on the Corvette C4. One of my favorite cars, but fully upgraded it's another decapitation factory.
'Decapitation Factory' - love it 🤣
That livery is so gorgeous
Martini liveries are always a pretty safe bet :)
Wow! Fantastic tune and wonderfully explained. Love your content, Foss - subbed👍
The script in this one is really sharp with the humour
I love the Martini livery. I actually wrapped a rally car that I raced in those colors, but I don’t have it anymore.
Funnily enough this swap is quite brilliant with the factory 4 speed gearbox, and people have been using that a lot lately considering that the gearing is quite tall.
I love this car, I don't have a ballast and slightly softer suspension on mine, pretty close to stock, but it is such a joy to drive on any sports to racing hard tires. I find any tires above racing hard make this car too twitchy. Same thing with my Lancia Stratos, although that's easier on racing soft tires imo.
Amazing top background pic on your channel ! 🔥
Super interesting video. 800BHP on a 1980s RWD car is inanity to begin with but your suggestions almost make this seem like a reasonable choice! 👍🏼
It actually works very nicely if you tune it for 700PP since it'll have no turbo, and some front ballast, and to be fair it works decent on the 800PP Sardegna race too, since the track is relatively simple.
quility is getting better fast :>
I find adding 80 kilos of ballast at the extreme front towards the front wheels also dramatically helps reduce the pendulum effect found in RR vehicles ***me from the future*** i left this comment before watching the full video and seeing that you did indeed add ballast
that's the easy way out
That was common for people to do that with older 911s back then to keep the front end from lifting at high speeds or spinning out of control. Whatever had a lot of mass behind it worked well for ballast.
This was amazing! Very good intel. I’ve been struggling like crazy with the Porsche 959 engine swapped, maybe you should try and tame that one, thanks!
Which one? The 959 engine can be fitted to a few different cars.
@@fossilfueled27 sorry i just checked and my grammar was wrong lol and I also though it had a different engine than the og but I was confused. Nvm that, I actually meant the Porsche 959 fully tuned
@@juliancortes9488 Ah ok. I'll give it a try soon.
watching a full lap of nordschleife is never wasted time! :D
As much as I love the track, I'd hate to be that guy who artificially makes their videos longer for no reason. That's the main reason I trim so much of it.
Would appreciate one with either the FC or FD. Terrible lift off oversteer in the FC but would to see if what I’ve done is close to what you can accomplish.
Today i drove this car 150 km on the Nordschleife in order to tune it properly! I think the most important is that you need to put some weight in the front and skip the wide rims. I didn’t tought that wide rims can destroy the handling especially in case of race tires!
Adding aero to the car helps to some extent, but adding ballast to the front definitely works too.
I have no ballast at all and drive it perfectly 😂😂😂
I had this issue with the F40. I increased the torque and stroke to reduce the max rpm. Stock air and muffler. Then you down shift early. When it's about to go crazy.
I think the downforce settings should be a ratio, not a fixed number. For example, when you say the front downforce should be 100 lower than the rear. The front downforce should be a percentage of the rear.
Sure, with something like a Gr.3 or Gr.1 car where the downforce numbers are so much higher, a ratio makes sense, but the majority of road cars get downforce numbers between 100 and 300, so a 100 point difference usually works. Obviously there's a couple of exceptions like this 930.
I think there is something very wrong with road car suspension/ physics right now.
I understand rubbing on the wheel wells does happen in real life and cars can have body role, but my god certain rode cars just start jumping randomly it seems.
I’ve been driving the gallardo on eiger and Dayton and for starters it needs a completely different tune for each track, not to be competitive but just be be drivable it randomly jumps on certain corners of elevation changes. I’m sure other cars are being affected. Now I am all for a good tune, but NEEDING to tune just to drive a track aids and I’m not trying to have 6 sheets per car with duplicate cars so I can drive all the tracks.
The Gallardo has a problem mainly due to the power it makes fully upgraded. It's no doubt a glitch but the car hops and bounces under hard acceleration. I'm pretty sure it's a tame version of all those videos of flying Samba Busses, so it should hopefully be cured in the next update. Meanwhile, cars like this Porsche 930 have always been very difficult to drive in GT7, as they are in real life.
@@fossilfueled27The 930 wasn't called the Widowmaker for nothing, because it sure had the reputation of being a challenge to drive haha.
Motor Swapped Suzuki Cappuccino setup for the 600 LP PP Tokyo Race please. 🙏
I really love how yoi talk ie "it's complete toss" and "making me look like a twat " in the bm vid. Make you sound like one if my mates instead of some youtuber ❤
Can you please setup Audi TT from 2009 for nurburgring
1968 dodge charger with hellcat swap, ive yet to tame it..
Did you make this car a wide body as well?
All cars in this series have the widebody where possible.
R32 GTR setup please 🙏
Would these settings work on the 73 911 Carrera?
Not quite as well. The '73 has a huge problem because you can't fit a rear wing. I'll give it a try at some point to see if I can tame it. I strongly recommend not bothering with the 959 swap on it though. It's terrifying enough on the stock engine.
Is this engine swapped car a good weapon for the Neo-Classic Competition?
It can be used, but I'd recommend a de-tuned group C car personally. Or something like a Skyline R32, which has similar performance but 4WD, much easier to handle.
@@fossilfueled27 and how about the F40, the 400R and the C4?
@@LaZdiZorro I've just released a video on the C4, and it's a lot easier to drive than the Porsche, but it reaches such crazy speeds, it can be hard to manage. The 400R would probably make most sense.
@@fossilfueled27 thanks mate, I already have a 962C but I d like to try a cheaper and less LCDwaiting way to beat those races
Can you try the nsx with the swap pls
Would you like me to try the 1992 NSX or the newer 2002 car?
@@fossilfueled27 the 2002 pls that’s the one I have
Did you used to make war thunder vids by chance?
Nope. Never played it.
I love your video! Your driving style at the Nordschleife reminded me of this video:
ua-cam.com/video/OSMCfPASImQ/v-deo.html&pp=ygUXeWVsbG93YmlyZCBuw7xyYnVyZ3Jpbmc%3D
So maybe you can make a video how to tame the yellowbird (I guess some of the same settings apply ).
I tried a yellowbird car mod for assetto Corsa but it was undrivable on the ring. :-(
A Yellowbird replica honestly isn't too difficult to drive since it's just a case of adding a big turbo to the standard 930 turbo with the stock tyres. It slides a heck of a lot but because everything happens so much slower, it's easier to predict the car will do next.