Well, this is crazy to finally film this and have it live... Been in the works for MONTHS. I hope you guys get value from this one! Get your crank hub here - precisiondynamicsms.com Code "Spencer" can save you $ on your crank hub! Check out Precisions UA-cam channel - ua-cam.com/users/TruongMikeMai Where I get BMW parts - mashimarho.com/d5904 My camera I use (Amazon Shopping) - amzn.to/3cT4DXS $18 BMW Motorsport flag - amzn.to/3jwtQKh Podcast setup - amzn.to/2GsAFxO
Extremely rare to come across such an ETHICAL and professional mechanic who is also a great teacher👍👍👍 The industry needs more of such talented, honest mechanics
The hub doesn't spin because the bolt gets loose, it spins because people tune the engine and it applies more torque than designed for. Hardly a genius, in fact dead wrong
@@ScienceBitch123 in some cases the bolt does indeed get loose over time, not just because of tuning but bad driving habits, ppl drive dct like crazy. Its bmws mistake to come up with a crank hub that would get worse stock or tune.
Mike is an absolute wizard. The amount of knowledge that he has is insane. I’ll be bringing my F80 to him very soon. Great job documenting the process guys!
I DIYed mine last week with the SSR Hub. Car runs great. He is right about the 4 pin drilling process . I actually broke the supplied drill bit on the third hole. Carbide bits are strong but more prone to breaking. Ended up having to order new bits and drill that hole 1/32 bigger. If you move your hand the slightest bit while drilling it has a tendency to dig into the template and cause the hole to be slightly off. Luckily my hub went in tight with no trouble. I liked the 2 piece design because it makes it easier to get around the oil pump chain. Honestly would have considered his hub if hadn't already ordered mine. Overall not an easy DIY. You will need s55/n55 timing tools, front seal removers/installers, and a crank hub holding tool, and preferably a digital torque wrench with angle. I ended up dropping subframe on mine. I would not attempt unless you have access to a lift. Also id recommend getting BMW ISTA service guide for a day to guide through process and for proper torque values.
Kudos to you for doing this diy! What motor did you install on and what power level you at? I'm wondering, is the hub more prone to slippage on a 6mt/dct then auto? Seems like a torque converter should help this not to happen. Also wonder if any lower hp cars have ever had this issue.
@@nicholaskerlew6796 if I remember correctly I ended up buying one that was for the n55 (don’t remember if because it was cheaper or I couldn’t find a s55 one) and I drilled it to fit the s55 hub.
@@ichoozjc one year check in and my motor hasn’t blown yet lol. I was stage one bm3 when it spun but oddly I wasn’t pushing the car when it spun. Mine is 6 speed. I think the DCT is more prone to slippage
man I wish there was someone like him here in Ireland. Very honest with his work. mechanics here in Ireland are all cowboys. great job precision dynamics.
Top-notch video! I have never finished an one-hour video on UA-cam LOL This is the first one. It is so informative and interesting! Planning to get a f82 in 2 years and definitely going to take it to Precision Dynamics for this job! Nice work dude!
I've owned 2 European mechanic shops before..from my understanding the right way to do this is to pull the engine out ,pull the crankshaft pully install the new Hub...this is a mess with shaved metals from drilling.. possible crooked drilling..top of the engine taken apart etc etc.... From Experience Mike is one of the Best Mechanics I've ever seen. Bmw should be sued to fix this problem free..just like the e90 rod bearing issues.
Big corporations never admit flaws or failures. Samsung, Apple, Microsoft, they all do the same shit. BMW to keep their loyal fan base fixed it because they know most BMW drivers drive their car hard…
When doing my own rod bearings I referenced your video alot. Especially when I was getting conflicting torque specs on the rod bolts. Nice to know where all the hidden bolts and time saving tricks before starting.
I love how he explained why you should change out your crank hub. Even, tho I like the fact that he said "I would like you guys to do it to" meaning us the diy guys at home. That guy sounds like me. I hope people understand that he is not trying selling you anything. But, really trying to help you guys. Love this video. Great info and love how he explained everything. As a tech I learned how not all crank hub are build the same.
Design looks great. Thanks for taking the time to film this. It's weird that BMW didn't use a woodruff key from the factory with the gears fixed. It's exactly what they were designed for 135 years ago.
I appreciate you uploading this video. I spun my hub last week after 3 days of uploading a stage one bm3 tune and needed a good in depth diy source for the process. Luckily my car still runs and idles fine but it’s stuck in limp mode. Will be installing the ssr performance keyed hub next weekend.
Really glad that you yourself take the time to understand how and why things work in your own car. Many dudes just UA-cam base their knowledge and don’t really know what they’re doing. You are transparent and showing us that you’re willing to learn. Keep up the good content!
How this dude just go from having his whole business run on social media to Stop posting on every social media platform? I guess that’s how you know some crazy shit happened. Hope whatever you going through you get through it
I saw a company..MMR i think who made a one pc crank hub along with a bolt capture solution..I think if it is properly torqued and installed then it would be perfect solution because there is no way that the crank hub can spin.. I’am not bashing anyone’s solution and I have learnt a lot from this video but drilling the crank is not for me but I have learnt more in this video than I can mention..👊👊👊
Drilling the crank is risky, those pins will eventually strain under whiplash.. I think the single pc crank hub with capture from MMR is better although I will probably use this technique to install….
I’ve been waiting for this video right when you guys started really talking about it. something about the look in your eye around other F80’s before you got yours. And I’m honestly stoked it’s an instructional DIY!
Great video bro !!! Why not use a tested and known working design like a 2pin or 4pin Crank Hub that have been used for years ? Why use something new that has not been out in the field very long ? Doesn’t that new design throw the balance of the Crank Hub off since it has more material (key way) in that one section ?
He explained it here: 37:30 Mike's crank hub design For me, It really seems like the best design. (I have had my share of not perfectly straight drill holes) And the balance is not thrown off, since there is material on the CH itself, that rebalances things.
Problem is not their design. Problem is finding a mechanic that you can entrust to drill into a crankshaft. Drilling a crankshaft is a very delicate job. Some people even had their crankshaft crack. If you live in some poorer part of the world those guys don't even get to work on S55 often.
I like how he explains about the other crank hub designs and who installs it. So now looks like this guy knows his stuff. If I ever decide to get mine done might have to drive to cali
Very informative, thanks for putting this together. I read that cbc should be sufficient to fix the issue because it keeps the bolt from coming out. The only ones who have reported sch with a cbc also money shifted. I’ve been running stg 2 e85 at about 550whp for about 20k miles no issues, planning on just doing the cbc.
I have searched a lot, This is the best explanation for why you need to upgrade and how. Great work, appreciated. Only thing I would love to see the required replacement parts which needs to be purchased beforehand. I live in a place where it is not easy to find m3 parts so I will ship all from US. It would be great to know which part am I going to need like gasgets and etc.
Welp Spencer has sold me to take a trip down south and get mine done at precision lol. I trust Mike to do the job with all his knowledge and expertise.
This video is greatly appreciated. Especially with the details on the different crankhub designs out there and what could happen if not installed correctly. Wish I was in Cali. Would definitely take my car to Precision for this.
Good job and great video! But when you mentioned drilling straight,your hand with nerve shaking cannot drilled a hole straight like a machine does. That hole you drilled is not perfect that’s why you mentioned even if the hole is off a little bit you design the crank hub to take the tolerance if you make a mistake.
Thanks for putting together this content! This is an awesome video that you don’t find a lot of for this depth and detail of car work. I’m learning cars more and more and am not looking for timelapse videos with music overlay
Bro, hope all is well. It's been a while and I know you're probably just hustling and working but I hope all is well. Cant wait to see what you've been working on in the next video.
Well explained he nailed it I have a pinned crank hub on my N54 335i dam germans.... I installed it my self engine out the car its not for low level mechanics...
Getting my 2018 F80 Comp 6MT CrankHub done next week. The car has 82k miles on it but I need that piece of mind 😅. Also going FBO with MHD stage 2+ on 93 Oct only.
Opinions all over the place on the crank hub and for good reason - the simple fact of the matter is you absolutely DO NOT have to swap out the crank hub to avoid grenading your motor. This is extremely over hyped just like the IMS bearing failures on P-cars. It becomes over hyped like the IMS bearing/crank hub because of the
so just to be clear.. you're using the screwdriver to get approximate TDC position, but you get the precise TDC using the locking pin on the crank correct? (BTW probably not a good idea to use a metal screwdriver on the surface of a piston. (use a plastic rod or something to doesn't scratch)
Please tell me this is the same as the Gintani 1-piece crank hub! I literally just broke the bank for the Gintani one that I got installed last month and now I see this! Someone please tell me they're the same ffs. Help!
My F82 has covered 80k, and is 9 years old. For about 40k it has been running around 500 whp, for the last 10k it has had hybrid turbos and is running around 600 whp. My car has no crank hub fix. It is a manual. My advice is dont bother unless you have a DCT and/or regularly track your car. In my mind it has to be aggressive down shifts or money shifts that spin hubs. Also some of the "fixes" look like they would add more inertia, or shift the impact onto a small component that could fatigue. I cant see how adding more power alone would cause it to slip, the added load on the hub due to more boost is surely minimal. It would be over reving, or rapid changes in engine RPM that would load the hub.
The way they thype this crankhub issue is farcical . Its extremely rare to occur. Unless you tuning the engine to hell and driving like a lunatic..and then still...probably not worth it to get the fix.
Just bought one! Looking forward to doing this upgrade! Thanks for taking the time to make this video, very educational! 😎👍🏻 Ps where did you get the head torch from!? 😜👍🏻
So technically, from what the technician is saying the crank bolt slowly backs out and that’s how the friction disc spin therefore allowing your crank hub to spin. Does that mean that if you do the crank bolt capture, this will prevent your crank bolt from slowly backing out and should in theory prevent the friction disc from spinning?
Supposedly most cases are caused by the bolt backing out but after a certain torque level the separate pieces will slip the friction disc regardless, also once it starts to slip it’s said to get a lot worse much quicker
I run VTT's crank bolt capture plate on my 2015 m4 convertible. 15k miles on stage 2 93 octane dyno'd 493whp/553wtq, and another 17k on 100% e85 tune, supposedly 580whp. I floor it everyday, I don't track my car though.
When you were drilling the crank what precautions did you use to stop swarf dropping down into the oil sump or have you removed that too along with the subframe , steering rack etc ????
Yes its at 138,600 miles still no major issue , same tune....i dont do drifting and burnouts for crowds etc....just rolls when i run someone....same 100 octane tune....no injector issues that or common with e85 blends over time
I have one question. I understand the importance of the guide to drill the crank, but how do you make sure that you drill on the correct location of the crank? If the crank is drilled in the wrong spot, the timing will be off because the chain will be moved incorrectly, right? Like does the guide only fit in one location of the crank? Or can it spin? How do you know the correct location to drill. I hope that makes sense, thanks!
TDC at compression or exhaust stroke? Make sure the q-barcodes on the cams are facing up for compression stroke. Camshafts not aligning because the vanos gears still have oil pressure? I do believe, if oil pressure is relieved, they should always align.
Coming from someone who had an E92 and got extremely offput from BMW's because of how unreliable and expensive those cars were to maintain, it's not as annoying or bad to know that really the worst issue you will have with these cars is a $3500~ fix (and Intercooler too). It's definitely annoying because it's something that I believe BMW should recall at this point. But, as I said, when I end up buying one of these cars, it's decent knowing that this is really the most expensive thing I'll hopefully have to do.
Great video - very informative! The shop owner is legit, an honest, transparent and knowledgeable guy! Curious, I had a hub spin, replaced right around the time of this video. Right at that time, BMW had a replacement friction disc that is diamond coated. I'm ~680-700 wheel (ps2+s, custom e85, etc.) and no issue since this oem disc replacement with the diamond coated one... Few questions: 1. agree it is from the bolt backing out, if that is the direct culprit, can it / wouldn't it be applicable to ensure that bolt is at the proper tq spec upon "vehicle check" or other major inspections. 2. has he seen any improvements from the oe replacement part (I can find the part # if needed) 3. any failures to date from the upgraded precision crank hub? Thank you for the info!!
Highly detailed video, after about 10 minutes into job realized the amount of time, detail, and steps involved, then imagine if crank hub was spun, and the additional time and labor of trying to do a diy job on the weekend 😫. This is typical BMW manufacturing over engineering an engine then choking down the the turbo diameters, using an abundance of plastic piping, and supporting parts, and skimping on trivial costs. Anyone buying a new BMW should ask for long term warranty, or $12,000 additional off price to correct such BMW flaws. 😁
As a tech that has done a couple pinned hubs this completely makes sense. I am personally going to use this design. Is the promo code no good anymore?? Not working for me.
Well, this is crazy to finally film this and have it live... Been in the works for MONTHS. I hope you guys get value from this one!
Get your crank hub here - precisiondynamicsms.com
Code "Spencer" can save you $ on your crank hub!
Check out Precisions UA-cam channel - ua-cam.com/users/TruongMikeMai
Where I get BMW parts - mashimarho.com/d5904
My camera I use (Amazon Shopping) - amzn.to/3cT4DXS
$18 BMW Motorsport flag - amzn.to/3jwtQKh
Podcast setup - amzn.to/2GsAFxO
Bro, someone is posting spam on here as "Spenser Berke 129k"
Hey, where is this guy located, I want to do this job on my F80
Does anyone have his email ? Spencer’s?
If I get an f80, this guy is doing all of my work. Your mechanic is amazing!!!
Extremely rare to come across such an ETHICAL and professional mechanic who is also a great teacher👍👍👍
The industry needs more of such talented, honest mechanics
Mike is a genius, I would so go to Precision Dynamics if I was still in SoCal!
The hub doesn't spin because the bolt gets loose, it spins because people tune the engine and it applies more torque than designed for. Hardly a genius, in fact dead wrong
@@ScienceBitch123 in some cases the bolt does indeed get loose over time, not just because of tuning but bad driving habits, ppl drive dct like crazy. Its bmws mistake to come up with a crank hub that would get worse stock or tune.
Mike is an absolute wizard. The amount of knowledge that he has is insane. I’ll be bringing my F80 to him very soon. Great job documenting the process guys!
This mechanic is brilliant! I wish him much success in his business.
Best explanation of the crank hub issue I've seen to date. He is like the "M Whisperer".
I DIYed mine last week with the SSR Hub. Car runs great. He is right about the 4 pin drilling process . I actually broke the supplied drill bit on the third hole. Carbide bits are strong but more prone to breaking. Ended up having to order new bits and drill that hole 1/32 bigger. If you move your hand the slightest bit while drilling it has a tendency to dig into the template and cause the hole to be slightly off. Luckily my hub went in tight with no trouble. I liked the 2 piece design because it makes it easier to get around the oil pump chain. Honestly would have considered his hub if hadn't already ordered mine. Overall not an easy DIY. You will need s55/n55 timing tools, front seal removers/installers, and a crank hub holding tool, and preferably a digital torque wrench with angle. I ended up dropping subframe on mine. I would not attempt unless you have access to a lift. Also id recommend getting BMW ISTA service guide for a day to guide through process and for proper torque values.
Kudos to you for doing this diy! What motor did you install on and what power level you at? I'm wondering, is the hub more prone to slippage on a 6mt/dct then auto? Seems like a torque converter should help this not to happen. Also wonder if any lower hp cars have ever had this issue.
even attempting to diy this is brave. good luck
Which crankshaft holder did you use?
@@nicholaskerlew6796 if I remember correctly I ended up buying one that was for the n55 (don’t remember if because it was cheaper or I couldn’t find a s55 one) and I drilled it to fit the s55 hub.
@@ichoozjc one year check in and my motor hasn’t blown yet lol. I was stage one bm3 when it spun but oddly I wasn’t pushing the car when it spun. Mine is 6 speed. I think the DCT is more prone to slippage
man I wish there was someone like him here in Ireland. Very honest with his work. mechanics here in Ireland are all cowboys. great job precision dynamics.
Mike has come a long way from when I saw your vids at SSR. The design is very smart.
Top-notch video! I have never finished an one-hour video on UA-cam LOL This is the first one. It is so informative and interesting! Planning to get a f82 in 2 years and definitely going to take it to Precision Dynamics for this job! Nice work dude!
hows your f80 progress
I've owned 2 European mechanic shops before..from my understanding the right way to do this is to pull the engine out ,pull the crankshaft pully install the new Hub...this is a mess with shaved metals from drilling.. possible crooked drilling..top of the engine taken apart etc etc.... From Experience Mike is one of the Best Mechanics I've ever seen. Bmw should be sued to fix this problem free..just like the e90 rod bearing issues.
I going to remove the oil pan and weld it
They fixed the issue on the S58 despite never acknowledging it on the S55 😡
But how many crank hubs have been updated like this, there is probably 100,000 S55 cars out there or more.
@@jostrander71 i spun mine and thought the same ! 10000km car with stage 1 installed at 9000km! Trust me that problem is real
Big corporations never admit flaws or failures. Samsung, Apple, Microsoft, they all do the same shit. BMW to keep their loyal fan base fixed it because they know most BMW drivers drive their car hard…
@@yg78t76t7that couldn't be a more true statement.
Shouldve been an official recall. Smh.
Me: Oh look, a crank hub DIY, I’ll save 3k
Mike: summarizes the process
Me: 3k doesn’t sound so bad
I was thinking the same thing! I'll gladly pay that vs doing all that myself!
Agreed. I’d probably break something or forget/lose some bolts and my car won’t start lol
Just picked up my new 2018 f80 on Saturday and I’m saving already for crank hub job
I wish we had guys like this in NY. I’m sure they’re here. My mechanics are awesome but they’re real old school. Love the video
When doing my own rod bearings I referenced your video alot. Especially when I was getting conflicting torque specs on the rod bolts. Nice to know where all the hidden bolts and time saving tricks before starting.
Glad it helped!!
@@SpencerBerke what’s the cost to get something like this done thanks 2020 m4
@@megadealinvestment8784 i think ive heard around 3-4k
I love how he explained why you should change out your crank hub. Even, tho I like the fact that he said "I would like you guys to do it to" meaning us the diy guys at home. That guy sounds like me. I hope people understand that he is not trying selling you anything. But, really trying to help you guys.
Love this video. Great info and love how he explained everything. As a tech I learned how not all crank hub are build the same.
Mike has such patience with your total lack of knowledge, "What's TDC" , really?!
Great video thanks to Mike, what a legend!
This guy is a BMW guru. I wanna take my E60 M5 back to cali and get my rod bearings done lol
Nobody wants to work on that monstrosity
@@frontspring1 Lmao
Yeah I wish I had a shop like this near me wow!! That's an incredible job!!!
Design looks great. Thanks for taking the time to film this. It's weird that BMW didn't use a woodruff key from the factory with the gears fixed. It's exactly what they were designed for 135 years ago.
Looks quite simple. Might try it this weekend
🤣🤣🤣
I appreciate you uploading this video. I spun my hub last week after 3 days of uploading a stage one bm3 tune and needed a good in depth diy source for the process. Luckily my car still runs and idles fine but it’s stuck in limp mode. Will be installing the ssr performance keyed hub next weekend.
u ever install itv
This video is priceless. Well done Spencer. Salute to Mike and PD. Appreciate the time they both of you took to put this together 🤙🏽🍻.
Really glad that you yourself take the time to understand how and why things work in your own car. Many dudes just UA-cam base their knowledge and don’t really know what they’re doing. You are transparent and showing us that you’re willing to learn. Keep up the good content!
Think of moving to the US just to have this guy as my mechanic
How this dude just go from having his whole business run on social media to Stop posting on every social media platform? I guess that’s how you know some crazy shit happened.
Hope whatever you going through you get through it
Wym?
??
@@vonksummer9099 you must be new. He was gone for some months because had a mental breakdown
@@305dadecounty305 you must be new. He was gone for some months because he had a mental breakdown
@@Kooldood. yeah im new bro, damn i didnt know that why would he be on some mental breakdown he looks like he has everything in life
I saw a company..MMR i think who made a one pc crank hub along with a bolt capture solution..I think if it is properly torqued and installed then it would be perfect solution because there is no way that the crank hub can spin..
I’am not bashing anyone’s solution and I have learnt a lot from this video but drilling the crank is not for me but I have learnt more in this video than I can mention..👊👊👊
Drilling the crank is risky, those pins will eventually strain under whiplash..
I think the single pc crank hub with capture from MMR is better although I will probably use this technique to install….
Wow man Mike ROCKS! I wish I had a shop and a mechanic around me like Mike. Great video Spenc.
I’ve been waiting for this video right when you guys started really talking about it. something about the look in your eye around other F80’s before you got yours. And I’m honestly stoked it’s an instructional DIY!
Much appreciated. Working my ass off to come close to a m3 you getting this car pushed me
Of course, 100% thank you for watching my content!
Can’t wait to try and do a crankhub replacement myself when I get a car with a S55!!
Good luck! Hopefully this video has helped!
Are you doing a stage 3? And are you tracking the car?
Great video bro !!!
Why not use a tested and known working design like a 2pin or 4pin Crank Hub that have been used for years ?
Why use something new that has not been out in the field very long ?
Doesn’t that new design throw the balance of the Crank Hub off since it has more material (key way) in that one section ?
He explained it here:
37:30 Mike's crank hub design
For me, It really seems like the best design. (I have had my share of not perfectly straight drill holes)
And the balance is not thrown off, since there is material on the CH itself, that rebalances things.
Problem is not their design. Problem is finding a mechanic that you can entrust to drill into a crankshaft. Drilling a crankshaft is a very delicate job. Some people even had their crankshaft crack. If you live in some poorer part of the world those guys don't even get to work on S55 often.
I like how he explains about the other crank hub designs and who installs it. So now looks like this guy knows his stuff. If I ever decide to get mine done might have to drive to cali
Very informative, thanks for putting this together. I read that cbc should be sufficient to fix the issue because it keeps the bolt from coming out. The only ones who have reported sch with a cbc also money shifted. I’ve been running stg 2 e85 at about 550whp for about 20k miles no issues, planning on just doing the cbc.
Awesome video man ... I want to get an F80 and seriously considering shipping my car to Precision to get this done
I appreciate you taking the time to watch it!
He makes this looks super easy
Man if you was in the Uk I’d get it done fast man sick engneering
Lychhfield in uk siiiiiiiiiiick
I have searched a lot, This is the best explanation for why you need to upgrade and how. Great work, appreciated.
Only thing I would love to see the required replacement parts which needs to be purchased beforehand. I live in a place where it is not easy to find m3 parts so I will ship all from US. It would be great to know which part am I going to need like gasgets and etc.
Well done video showing the technical aspect of installing your crank hub.
Worth the money your charging and very fair.
Do you know which crank hub with the broken pin was?
Wow insane work and professionalism, take my money now
lol ive just sepnt 1 hour watching this. an educational video. great job guys!
Damn with the amount of work that goes into changing out the crank hub, you might as well buy your upgrades and do it all at the same time.
Welp Spencer has sold me to take a trip down south and get mine done at precision lol. I trust Mike to do the job with all his knowledge and expertise.
Incredible and in-depth video man! Learned a lot from Mike 💪🏽🔥💯🙌🏽💯
This video is greatly appreciated. Especially with the details on the different crankhub designs out there and what could happen if not installed correctly. Wish I was in Cali. Would definitely take my car to Precision for this.
Good job and great video! But when you mentioned drilling straight,your hand with nerve shaking cannot drilled a hole straight like a machine does. That hole you drilled is not perfect that’s why you mentioned even if the hole is off a little bit you design the crank hub to take the tolerance if you make a mistake.
Many shops in the uk now drop the sump due to Swarf from the drilling entering the sump.
Amazing video once again Spencer!! So detail step by step. Now we know why they charge what they charge. So much work involved .
Thanks for putting together this content! This is an awesome video that you don’t find a lot of for this depth and detail of car work. I’m learning cars more and more and am not looking for timelapse videos with music overlay
That mechanic is the absolute best.
Wish i could get my m4 overseas to him lol
What a DIY. I learned so much!! An hour well spent. Kudos to you and Mike.
Is there a way to see if the crank hub job has been done without digging too deep into disassembly?
Haha never seen the old, screwdriver on the piston trick on camera before 👍🏿. Great video.
Bro, hope all is well. It's been a while and I know you're probably just hustling and working but I hope all is well. Cant wait to see what you've been working on in the next video.
Great video. Thank you for taking your time to film this DIY 👍🏽👋🏼
Spencer did they use a handheld crank hub holder while you were attempting to losses the crankhub bolt?
Well explained he nailed it I have a pinned crank hub on my N54 335i dam germans.... I installed it my self engine out the car its not for low level mechanics...
Which pinned hub did you get? I’m really thinking of buying and installing the newer PPI one piece two pin hub for my N54 6MT 535i xDrive..
Great stuff guys can you post your new crank hub to Australia with instructions? Etc cheers Mark
Getting my 2018 F80 Comp 6MT CrankHub done next week. The car has 82k miles on it but I need that piece of mind 😅. Also going FBO with MHD stage 2+ on 93 Oct only.
Opinions all over the place on the crank hub and for good reason - the simple fact of the matter is you absolutely DO NOT have to swap out the crank hub to avoid grenading your motor. This is extremely over hyped just like the IMS bearing failures on P-cars. It becomes over hyped like the IMS bearing/crank hub because of the
so just to be clear.. you're using the screwdriver to get approximate TDC position, but you get the precise TDC using the locking pin on the crank correct? (BTW probably not a good idea to use a metal screwdriver on the surface of a piston. (use a plastic rod or something to doesn't scratch)
Yes bro that’s exactly what they are doing and if your careful I doubt you’ll scratch anything or just tape the end if your really worried
Hopefully I’ll be able to get a F80/F82 soon. I’ll definitely be going to these guys for all my upgrades 👍🏼
Please tell me this is the same as the Gintani 1-piece crank hub! I literally just broke the bank for the Gintani one that I got installed last month and now I see this! Someone please tell me they're the same ffs. Help!
wouldn’t doubt it bro. he’s known to take parts and make remakes of them.
Im getting it done as soon as i can and a bootmod3 at the same time hopefully
Amazing vid. My M2C is in next month for this. Xmas bonus well spent!
Great knowledge thank you Spencer! 🔥🔥
Of course, thanks for taking the time to watch!
117,000 no crank hub, and I roll race the hell out of my m4 s55, only issues so far are 2 fuel injectors died on me
My 2011 335i I just bought has a precision dynamics license plate frame.
One of the pulleys squeak now sadly. Not sure which one
Any disadvantages to doing a one peice crank hub? If not, why do you think BMW designed it the way they did?
My F82 has covered 80k, and is 9 years old. For about 40k it has been running around 500 whp, for the last 10k it has had hybrid turbos and is running around 600 whp. My car has no crank hub fix. It is a manual. My advice is dont bother unless you have a DCT and/or regularly track your car. In my mind it has to be aggressive down shifts or money shifts that spin hubs. Also some of the "fixes" look like they would add more inertia, or shift the impact onto a small component that could fatigue. I cant see how adding more power alone would cause it to slip, the added load on the hub due to more boost is surely minimal. It would be over reving, or rapid changes in engine RPM that would load the hub.
The way they thype this crankhub issue is farcical . Its extremely rare to occur. Unless you tuning the engine to hell and driving like a lunatic..and then still...probably not worth it to get the fix.
They do nice work & he's a smart kid.....👍🏁
Just bought one! Looking forward to doing this upgrade! Thanks for taking the time to make this video, very educational! 😎👍🏻
Ps where did you get the head torch from!? 😜👍🏻
Bro the video is fire one of the best videos I seen !
So technically, from what the technician is saying the crank bolt slowly backs out and that’s how the friction disc spin therefore allowing your crank hub to spin. Does that mean that if you do the crank bolt capture, this will prevent your crank bolt from slowly backing out and should in theory prevent the friction disc from spinning?
Supposedly most cases are caused by the bolt backing out but after a certain torque level the separate pieces will slip the friction disc regardless, also once it starts to slip it’s said to get a lot worse much quicker
I run VTT's crank bolt capture plate on my 2015 m4 convertible. 15k miles on stage 2 93 octane dyno'd 493whp/553wtq, and another 17k on 100% e85 tune, supposedly 580whp. I floor it everyday, I don't track my car though.
those a torque wrenches with degree measures are badass
When you were drilling the crank what precautions did you use to stop swarf dropping down into the oil sump or have you removed that too along with the subframe , steering rack etc ????
There is a no-drilling version out now from some tuners. What do you think about it?
Did not lock the flywheel with any tool? The crankshaft pin and timing chain got all that torque tightening force ? 😲😲😲
Yes its at 138,600 miles still no major issue , same tune....i dont do drifting and burnouts for crowds etc....just rolls when i run someone....same 100 octane tune....no injector issues that or common with e85 blends over time
And no crank hub....lol..bullshit
@@jenningswinfrey8171the crankhub is not an issue..its very rare.
great knowledge of the engine but the force needed to loosen the crank bolt tells you you don't need to do this job unless you're tuning to 800 hp.
I like this!
Thank you!
That man is phenomenal
I have one question. I understand the importance of the guide to drill the crank, but how do you make sure that you drill on the correct location of the crank?
If the crank is drilled in the wrong spot, the timing will be off because the chain will be moved incorrectly, right? Like does the guide only fit in one location of the crank? Or can it spin? How do you know the correct location to drill.
I hope that makes sense, thanks!
TDC at compression or exhaust stroke? Make sure the q-barcodes on the cams are facing up for compression stroke.
Camshafts not aligning because the vanos gears still have oil pressure? I do believe, if oil pressure is relieved, they should always align.
Mike is the best there is hands down
I have an E90 M3, not even an F8x M3/4, and I found this fascinating. Thanks for capturing this on film with Mike.
Coming from someone who had an E92 and got extremely offput from BMW's because of how unreliable and expensive those cars were to maintain, it's not as annoying or bad to know that really the worst issue you will have with these cars is a $3500~ fix (and Intercooler too). It's definitely annoying because it's something that I believe BMW should recall at this point. But, as I said, when I end up buying one of these cars, it's decent knowing that this is really the most expensive thing I'll hopefully have to do.
This guy is the Rain Man of bmw engines.
Great video - very informative! The shop owner is legit, an honest, transparent and knowledgeable guy! Curious, I had a hub spin, replaced right around the time of this video. Right at that time, BMW had a replacement friction disc that is diamond coated. I'm ~680-700 wheel (ps2+s, custom e85, etc.) and no issue since this oem disc replacement with the diamond coated one...
Few questions:
1. agree it is from the bolt backing out, if that is the direct culprit, can it / wouldn't it be applicable to ensure that bolt is at the proper tq spec upon "vehicle check" or other major inspections.
2. has he seen any improvements from the oe replacement part (I can find the part # if needed)
3. any failures to date from the upgraded precision crank hub?
Thank you for the info!!
I’m an amg fanboy and still watched this whole thing.
Hope you doing good Spence! Im sure youre working on banger videos.
I would increase the rads as much as possible on that key feature. I agree one piece hub is the way to go.
Wow I learned about the f80 , a car that I want in the future and this video is perfect 👍🏽
Highly detailed video, after about 10 minutes into job realized the amount of time, detail, and steps involved, then imagine if crank hub was spun, and the additional time and labor of trying to do a diy job on the weekend 😫. This is typical BMW manufacturing over engineering an engine then choking down the the turbo diameters, using an abundance of plastic piping, and supporting parts, and skimping on trivial costs. Anyone buying a new BMW should ask for long term warranty, or $12,000 additional off price to correct such BMW flaws. 😁
As a tech that has done a couple pinned hubs this completely makes sense. I am personally going to use this design. Is the promo code no good anymore?? Not working for me.
Are there any signs when it starts to fail, or is this usually a “all at once” failure?
So they do this job without lowering the subframe and removing the oil pan?
The pin is for alignment only it is not a crank lock. You should be using the lock tool that locks the flywheel teeth.