My f80 warranty expired in April, so I upgraded my crank hub recently for all the same reasons you stated. Now I can enjoy the car without worrying. I chose the SSR.
reminds me of my subie days when the head gasket failure was freaking everyone out. lots people with stock wrx/sti's were so concerned about blowing their motors and were afraid to tune their motors. i drove my 06 sti with upgraded turbo (plus supporting mods) pretty hard for 100k miles and never had an issue. but then i heard of subie guys supposedly blowing their low mileage motors just backing out of their driveways with nothing but a tune. i had an f80 m3 comp with dct that i was afraid to tune and left it stock. now i have a manual stage 2 f87 m2 comp. no issues with either car so far (fingers crossed). from what ive read if your crank hub is going to fail its going to fail regardless of state of tune. people want to place a finger on the cause (because thats just human nature) but the reality is its happening regardless if your stock or modded, manual or dct, etc etc. failures happen. but those 2-5% of people who are experiencing these failures are supper pissed and cry the loudest because they spent 60+k on car and are getting f***ed.
That's so true. I had the 2005 STi since new, and I drove that everywhere. Hunting, fishing, road trip across the world. I traded in for a 2014 370z Nismo at 167k miles.
Beautiful car! I have a 2016 Mineral Grey M4 w 21,000 miles. Have had it less than a month and will probably get mine done at some point to avoid the worry. I want to get mine where it's around 600 to the wheels and I'll be totally happy with it! Love the car!
Exactly my POV - if you're going to mod the car and drive it hard, and you KNOW there's a possible failure point in the engine, it's a no-brainer. If you're keeping it stock and under warranty ... it's on BMW ;P
I have heard that the kickdown on dct's is what messes things up, the aggressive shifts put alot of strain on the hub and then it fails. Same applies to the manual, shifting too hard is essentially the same thing as the dct kickdown
Mark your crank bolt and pulley with a paint marker right now. Watch over time that alignment, either problem that happens instantly or gradually. If its gradually, buy a new bolt and torque, done. Bmw design with the fiction thing was risky. Looking at crank bolt the flange part don't cover much area, maybe expanding the flange area may help.
From my understanding the n54 and n55 have the same crank hub system. Ive ran my 335i n54 for 40k miles with 500-600 whp range with hybrid turbos pure stage 2 hi flow . Also never had a hpfp or injector problem. ...i guess everyone's mileage varies....
I am going to do the crank hub just because the guys selling the crank hubs have me hooked … The sales tactic has worked well for them similar to the s55 exhaust sound issues…
My two cents. I know a bmw tech who owns an m2 comp he knew of the issue and it happened to him. His m2 is aggressively tuned and tracks it and drives it aggressively.
I have a 2017 Comp F80 with 43k miles. I kick down quite a bit but lately with the crank hub talks as of recent, it's freaked me out a bit. I wish I had the $8k laying around to get this done. Thanks for the info!
@@ThicWhips I thought that was 2-3k higher than anywhere else. I don't have any shops around me, I would need to go to either FL, GA and farther up north. I still have a CPO warranty that ends in August. I don't plan to up the HP until after the crank hub upgrade and after the warranty expiration.
Well detailed video on the infamous crankhub issue. In my opinion it should be a factored modification/ preventative maintenance cost to give you that peace of mind. Especially if you plan on going to stage 2 or higher.
Yoooo lets goo, about to have CES work on my M3, My buddy works there and helped me get the parts I need for a 4N single turbo build I'm planning in the future. Glad to see you like CES. I feel good getting my crank hub and work done over there next month.
My crank hub spun and bent all my exhaust valves but I installed a new revised hub they are made for higher hp applications and not keyed people don’t mention the revisions for the hubs and I had to install a new cylinder head it’s not as hard as people believe just takes a long time to do and have to be very meticulous about it but all together only cost me 2.7k to repair hub and cylinder head doing it myself but you go to a shop non dealer it’s quoted at 10 to 12k so do it yourself UA-cam videos help and no you do not have to take engine out I did the job with engine still in and turbo still in very easy. I would definitely recommend changing out the crank hub for a revised one once you get a custom tune and push like 370whp your hub will definitely spin at some point but MHD stage 2+ is safe you don’t get high power from that been there and done that haha but some cranks spin even stock so it’s a hit or miss tbh also you do not have to drop oil pan for this job unless it’s pinned hub that’s excessive the hubs barley spin stock no point to go that far into it just get a revised one you be fine haha they don’t tell ya that you need a special tool if you ever take the crank hub out if pinned
I know you mentioned the crank hub upgrade cost varies which totally makes sense. I live 20 min from Charlotte and have a F82 M4 that's is running boot mod3 stage one. No issues so far knock on carbon fiber. I am also looking into getting this upgrade in the future and would definitely consider this local shop, would like to know what this job cost at CES motorsport. Great content hope to see your GTS out in the Queen City.
I have droven 160000km with S55. Top problems oil pressure at 100t. New bearings. Second. Fracture of the main block. 125t. Oil pump gone. Then overhaul. At 155. Gearbox quit. Now it's repaired I'm done. Swapped it to Opel gt Wich has no repairs for past 250t. And got cash back 12500e. Now I'm happy
Yeah,there is a lot of talk about this, and a lot of different theories. I disagree about that it is horsepower related. When i ask people to explain to me how horsepower affects the cam drive system noone can give me a good answer. If you tune you S55, how does the tune itself make it harder/heavier to turn the cams and pump? How can that load up the drive chains more? Where does the extra resistance from a tune comes from?
My crank hub spun and bent all my exhaust valves but I installed a new revised hub they are made for higher hp applications (not keyed) people don’t seem to mention the new stock hub better friction disc tink welded on the sprockets and the sprockets are bigger as well revisions for the hubs and I had to install a new cylinder head it’s not as hard as people believe just takes a long time to do and have to be very meticulous about it but all together only cost me 2.7k to repair hub and cylinder head doing it myself but you go to a shop non dealer it’s quoted at 10 to 12k so do it yourself UA-cam videos help and no you do not have to take engine out I did the job with engine still in and turbo still in very easy
16:15 loved the video but going off the idea that if bmw doesn’t do recall that means it’s ok makes no sense, it’s more about money than anything. They did the calculation and realize it’s not worth it, it’s about money
So it sounds more like a maintenance issue . Check the torque on the crank bolt every time you change the oil. I’m looking at getting the F 80 M3 but the crank up bolt should I just get a M340i . how much to change it
That is also my POV. But in my case i dont want to drill the crank shaft. I'll bet on the MMR one piece crank and i wont be needing any drilling of the CS. I also have the Capture plate but for that piece of mind.. any way, great content as always. Regards from Portugal
I have had a '15 F82 Manual 60k miles no crank hub issue that i knew of. did throw a code once but cleared it.. and now an '18 with 38k miles manual, have not had any issues, BUT I also baby it.. A buddy just last week in Texas just messaged me about him thinking he spun his hub. he beats on it a lot and its auto
I had F80 m3 since 2016. That's 8 years. Completely stock, never droven over 3000 rpm LOL. Never fixed anything. Now after I hear about the crank hub issue, I'm going to drive it under 2000 rpm LOL. Maybe I should just get a prius next time.
Im trying to choose between Vargas spline lock hub and the SSR 4 pin. Any reason people seem to mostly go with SSR vs Vargas despite the splines vs pin debate?
From what I understand, spline lock isn’t a 100% certain fix, while the pins are. This is just based off of what I’ve gathered from the forums and online.
Honestly , I think it’s so bad ass that all your videos since you first started UA-cam have been constantly good. But they get better and better every video. Quality wise and content wise.
@9:24 what is the billet cover on the front of the oil filter housing to the right of the cam sprocket holding tool? It kept jumping out at me as non-stock
Have you ever thought about upgrading audio system on ur gts or adding a sub, i have a 2020 jeep JLUR and it has an 8" sub from factory and it sounds way better my f82, i was thinking to add a sub, but i want a oem look to it
@@ThicWhips I watched Spencer Berke’s video over on his channel and didn’t see him do it although I only watched it once. Is it because his isn’t a 4 pin?
Reminds me of 09 - 2015 Audi / VW 2.0t engines Bosch tensioner failure. Anyone who buys/bought an Audi/VW 2.0/ from those years, first question they are asked "has it had timing tensioner replaced with updated design?" VW/Audi never issued a recall on those either.
Great video and your car is very nice. Since your shop knows of 4 vehicles (or perhaps more by now) that experienced a spun crank hub, the questions I have are was the bolt still tight and was the hub still tight on the crankshaft? Not sure if it's still around, but there is a one piece crank hub that doesn't use pins. I guess its design is based on the premise that the problem is not the entire hub coming loose, but only the chain sprockets.
@@ThicWhips Okay, that makes sense. Not having seen one of these hubs, I was wondering if the failure mechanism is caused by the washer wearing when the sprocket breaks loose or if it's caused by the hub rotating due to the bolt backing out. If it's caused by the washer, then the MMR hub could fix the problem without necessitating drilling the crankshaft. Not only would that eliminate irreversible modification to the crankshaft, which if done improperly, would be very expensive to fix, but it would also be easier to install.
I’ve only herd of it happening when you kick down and jump the motor to a super high rev My car with 68k on-a GTS tune never had a single issue but I also think it’s be cause of how I drive I never kick down I’m I’m going to a do a pull I simply down shit slowly till I’m at the rpm I want then hit the anti lag and we’re off
Great video man 👍 it's definitely wild seeing some cars completely stock having this issue and then others upping the boost and literally having no issues. It's just one of those things that varies per car but when I get an S55 I will definitely be doing this upgrade
In reality, the chance of this happening is extremely low. It really hasn't happened to that many cars but people blow the issue out of proportion. I wouldn't worry about it but at the same time, I'd probably avoid really aggressive kickdowns just cuz. Enjoy the car!
In reality, the chances of an accident happening are also low..but do you have insurance? Of course you do..this is that! Why would you not protect your investment if you don’t have a warranty and you can afford the pinned hub? It’s a micro fraction of what these cars are worth.
That’s why I’m afraid of buying an m4 I gotta pay for the car and an extra few thousand dollar to get it fixed before even having fun with it? M4 is my dream car but it doesn’t make sense to me to buy it and either spend couple thousands on it or don’t fix the crank hub and having it failing on me after a while?🤷🏼♂️ I’m still debating if I should get. The f82 or mk5 Supra because of the crank hub issue
Because that does nothing to solve a spinning crank hub. A capture only ensures the bolt does not back out all of the way. But once a hub spins from a loose bolt, the damage is done
Good knowledge share. Here in the UK it seems the same. Theres a lot of hype etc. I went for a crank hub capture plate, currently running stage 1 550bhp. Seems all good but I'm never downshifting aggressively. Obviously allow the car to get up to temps before giving it some 👍🏽
@@ThicWhips Thats cool I got satin on my f80 I got a stage 2 on mine just downpipe and bootmod3 did u have your s55 tuned before or after crank hub and how many miles did u do if u did before your fix im getting mine down in January just wondered if im safe?!
Don’t believe everything you see in these UA-cam videos. Find actual factual advice from professional drivers or race car mechanics that actually push the limits on these cars. Your rear differential seals or turbos will first go bad before you ever have any issues with the crankhub.
Everyone should always do their own research, no matter what. Our opinions or suggestions are based on our experiences and each of us will have our own. I’m just here to share mine
Yeah man...stage 2 = you better do it. General consensus is anything over Stage 1 you're playing with fire. You might be OK though, it's up to you what your risk tolerance is, some people can easily afford $15k+ for a rebuilt engine
if it spins your pistons and valves will crush, you’ll pretty much have to rebuild or buy a new engine. Looking at around 10k+. Rather spend the 3k on the fix
@@gabrieljacoboosorio1928 Stop spreading more fear than is has already been spread. Chisha - 90% of spun hubs result only in the need of retiming, not a complete engine fail. You retime and install an aftermarket hub then. Stop panick. Enjoy the car.
Manual? Maybe not if you have a capture plate. DSG? Absolutely. It's not IF but WHEN it'll happen. EDIT: Let me clarify, if you plan on tuning, get it done no matter what you have. Stock then it's not as big of a problem.
You all owners hide it so you can sell your cars..its a huge huge real issue ..here 8n my island 60% of all S55 had the issue ..the value of high miles used car will go down like titanic
My f80 warranty expired in April, so I upgraded my crank hub recently for all the same reasons you stated. Now I can enjoy the car without worrying. I chose the SSR.
How much it cost to get it fixed?
It’s pricey like 2800
Stage 2 for almost three years - no crank hub fix and its my daily
Good to hear man!
How much BHP? 550? Do you drive it hard?
@@tigeralpha1480 between 510-550 yeah its BM3 flash, of course i drive it like you should. Never kick down or tracked though
Pump gas or E30 blend?
Same here bro
reminds me of my subie days when the head gasket failure was freaking everyone out. lots people with stock wrx/sti's were so concerned about blowing their motors and were afraid to tune their motors. i drove my 06 sti with upgraded turbo (plus supporting mods) pretty hard for 100k miles and never had an issue. but then i heard of subie guys supposedly blowing their low mileage motors just backing out of their driveways with nothing but a tune. i had an f80 m3 comp with dct that i was afraid to tune and left it stock. now i have a manual stage 2 f87 m2 comp. no issues with either car so far (fingers crossed). from what ive read if your crank hub is going to fail its going to fail regardless of state of tune. people want to place a finger on the cause (because thats just human nature) but the reality is its happening regardless if your stock or modded, manual or dct, etc etc. failures happen. but those 2-5% of people who are experiencing these failures are supper pissed and cry the loudest because they spent 60+k on car and are getting f***ed.
That's so true. I had the 2005 STi since new, and I drove that everywhere. Hunting, fishing, road trip across the world. I traded in for a 2014 370z Nismo at 167k miles.
Beautiful car! I have a 2016 Mineral Grey M4 w 21,000 miles. Have had it less than a month and will probably get mine done at some point to avoid the worry. I want to get mine where it's around 600 to the wheels and I'll be totally happy with it! Love the car!
Great vid and great attitude it's all down to the owners responsibility after warranty finishes
Exactly my POV - if you're going to mod the car and drive it hard, and you KNOW there's a possible failure point in the engine, it's a no-brainer. If you're keeping it stock and under warranty ... it's on BMW ;P
I have heard that the kickdown on dct's is what messes things up, the aggressive shifts put alot of strain on the hub and then it fails. Same applies to the manual, shifting too hard is essentially the same thing as the dct kickdown
Does this apply for just downshifting manual? Or upshifting as well?
Mark your crank bolt and pulley with a paint marker right now. Watch over time that alignment, either problem that happens instantly or gradually.
If its gradually, buy a new bolt and torque, done. Bmw design with the fiction thing was risky. Looking at crank bolt the flange part don't cover much area, maybe expanding the flange area may help.
I still have warranty on mine, S55 is in stock form. Once it expires, I’ll probably upgrade the crank hub for the added piece of mind
From my understanding the n54 and n55 have the same crank hub system. Ive ran my 335i n54 for 40k miles with 500-600 whp range with hybrid turbos pure stage 2 hi flow . Also never had a hpfp or injector problem. ...i guess everyone's mileage varies....
I am going to do the crank hub just because the guys selling the crank hubs have me hooked …
The sales tactic has worked well for them similar to the s55 exhaust sound issues…
My two cents. I know a bmw tech who owns an m2 comp he knew of the issue and it happened to him. His m2 is aggressively tuned and tracks it and drives it aggressively.
I have a 2017 Comp F80 with 43k miles. I kick down quite a bit but lately with the crank hub talks as of recent, it's freaked me out a bit. I wish I had the $8k laying around to get this done. Thanks for the info!
It definitely should NOT cost you $8k. I suggest checking out some other shops.
@@ThicWhips I thought that was 2-3k higher than anywhere else. I don't have any shops around me, I would need to go to either FL, GA and farther up north. I still have a CPO warranty that ends in August. I don't plan to up the HP until after the crank hub upgrade and after the warranty expiration.
How far from Nc?
@@ThicWhips I'm about 5 hours from Asheville. I live in Huntsville, Alabama.
Would be a trek but CES can def get you sorted
Well detailed video on the infamous crankhub issue. In my opinion it should be a factored modification/ preventative maintenance cost to give you that peace of mind. Especially if you plan on going to stage 2 or higher.
Yoooo lets goo, about to have CES work on my M3, My buddy works there and helped me get the parts I need for a 4N single turbo build I'm planning in the future. Glad to see you like CES. I feel good getting my crank hub and work done over there next month.
all i’m hearing is i keep torque wrench in the back and check it from time to time 🤷♂️
My crank hub spun and bent all my exhaust valves but I installed a new revised hub they are made for higher hp applications and not keyed people don’t mention the revisions for the hubs and I had to install a new cylinder head it’s not as hard as people believe just takes a long time to do and have to be very meticulous about it but all together only cost me 2.7k to repair hub and cylinder head doing it myself but you go to a shop non dealer it’s quoted at 10 to 12k so do it yourself UA-cam videos help and no you do not have to take engine out I did the job with engine still in and turbo still in very easy. I would definitely recommend changing out the crank hub for a revised one once you get a custom tune and push like 370whp your hub will definitely spin at some point but MHD stage 2+ is safe you don’t get high power from that been there and done that haha but some cranks spin even stock so it’s a hit or miss tbh also you do not have to drop oil pan for this job unless it’s pinned hub that’s excessive the hubs barley spin stock no point to go that far into it just get a revised one you be fine haha they don’t tell ya that you need a special tool if you ever take the crank hub out if pinned
I know you mentioned the crank hub upgrade cost varies which totally makes sense. I live 20 min from Charlotte and have a F82 M4 that's is running boot mod3 stage one. No issues so far knock on carbon fiber. I am also looking into getting this upgrade in the future and would definitely consider this local shop, would like to know what this job cost at CES motorsport. Great content hope to see your GTS out in the Queen City.
Give them a call or dm them, they’ll be able to quote you out 🤘🏽
Great informative video. Just bought a 2019 M4 CS. I live in Charlotte, NC so I'll definitely have to come check out the shop.
I have droven 160000km with S55. Top problems oil pressure at 100t. New bearings. Second. Fracture of the main block. 125t. Oil pump gone. Then overhaul. At 155. Gearbox quit. Now it's repaired I'm done. Swapped it to Opel gt Wich has no repairs for past 250t. And got cash back 12500e. Now I'm happy
And this particular one (Opel gt) has been updated to 525whp from the start. Driveability is also insane. And no shoppy buttons just power and rwd.
Never opened by nobody. I guess bmw flyes by its china picked parts and German money to me (manufacturer) gofor it appetite.
Yeah,there is a lot of talk about this, and a lot of different theories. I disagree about that it is horsepower related. When i ask people to explain to me how horsepower affects the cam drive system noone can give me a good answer. If you tune you S55, how does the tune itself make it harder/heavier to turn the cams and pump? How can that load up the drive chains more? Where does the extra resistance from a tune comes from?
Torque related would make more sense. But I’d say 99% of this is driver ability related
My crank hub spun and bent all my exhaust valves but I installed a new revised hub they are made for higher hp applications (not keyed) people don’t seem to mention the new stock hub better friction disc tink welded on the sprockets and the sprockets are bigger as well revisions for the hubs and I had to install a new cylinder head it’s not as hard as people believe just takes a long time to do and have to be very meticulous about it but all together only cost me 2.7k to repair hub and cylinder head doing it myself but you go to a shop non dealer it’s quoted at 10 to 12k so do it yourself UA-cam videos help and no you do not have to take engine out I did the job with engine still in and turbo still in very easy
Thoughts on a 1 piece billet ch instead of a pinned one
16:15 loved the video but going off the idea that if bmw doesn’t do recall that means it’s ok makes no sense, it’s more about money than anything. They did the calculation and realize it’s not worth it, it’s about money
So it sounds more like a maintenance issue . Check the torque on the crank bolt every time you change the oil. I’m looking at getting the F 80 M3 but the crank up bolt should I just get a M340i . how much to change it
I'm full e85 on stock hub almost 1yr now n I race alot I just don't aggressive down shifts
Man, your GTS looks 🔥
Looks soooooo much better than the G Series M4. The new M4 CSL is a visual mess.
Not sure if I want an f80 or f30 340i
That is also my POV. But in my case i dont want to drill the crank shaft. I'll bet on the MMR one piece crank and i wont be needing any drilling of the CS. I also have the Capture plate but for that piece of mind.. any way, great content as always. Regards from Portugal
I have had a '15 F82 Manual 60k miles no crank hub issue that i knew of. did throw a code once but cleared it..
and now an '18 with 38k miles manual, have not had any issues, BUT I also baby it..
A buddy just last week in Texas just messaged me about him thinking he spun his hub. he beats on it a lot and its auto
I had F80 m3 since 2016. That's 8 years. Completely stock, never droven over 3000 rpm LOL. Never fixed anything. Now after I hear about the crank hub issue, I'm going to drive it under 2000 rpm LOL. Maybe I should just get a prius next time.
Why buy a track car if you arent going to drive it how it should be driven?
@@zackarywills2886 i bought it when i was 28. Didn't know much about cars.
Im trying to choose between Vargas spline lock hub and the SSR 4 pin. Any reason people seem to mostly go with SSR vs Vargas despite the splines vs pin debate?
From what I understand, spline lock isn’t a 100% certain fix, while the pins are. This is just based off of what I’ve gathered from the forums and online.
Good call on the 2 pin! I went with the same when i did mine.
Honestly , I think it’s so bad ass that all your videos since you first started UA-cam have been constantly good. But they get better and better every video. Quality wise and content wise.
@9:24 what is the billet cover on the front of the oil filter housing to the right of the cam sprocket holding tool? It kept jumping out at me as non-stock
Thats a mosselman thermostat. I am using that on my N54 and that thing is gold asf. Keeps my temps on N54 in 90s Celsius compared to 105-120C on stock
It this issue due crank harmonics, i mean is this for due vibration. When use some red screw lock it should stay there
In the uk get soikd cnub n capture.plate for like 800 900 fitted
Have you ever thought about upgrading audio system on ur gts or adding a sub, i have a 2020 jeep JLUR and it has an 8" sub from factory and it sounds way better my f82, i was thinking to add a sub, but i want a oem look to it
I don’t think you need to drop the sub frame depending on which crank hub you get.
If you are drilling into your crankshaft it is 100% wise to drop oil pan and subframe. Unless you enjoy metal fragments in your engine.
@@ThicWhips I watched Spencer Berke’s video over on his channel and didn’t see him do it although I only watched it once. Is it because his isn’t a 4 pin?
Reminds me of 09 - 2015 Audi / VW 2.0t engines Bosch tensioner failure. Anyone who buys/bought an Audi/VW 2.0/ from those years, first question they are asked "has it had timing tensioner replaced with updated design?"
VW/Audi never issued a recall on those either.
Great video and your car is very nice. Since your shop knows of 4 vehicles (or perhaps more by now) that experienced a spun crank hub, the questions I have are was the bolt still tight and was the hub still tight on the crankshaft? Not sure if it's still around, but there is a one piece crank hub that doesn't use pins. I guess its design is based on the premise that the problem is not the entire hub coming loose, but only the chain sprockets.
The bolt will always be out of torque spec if it spins. That’s how the friction disc lets loose
@@ThicWhips Okay, that makes sense. Not having seen one of these hubs, I was wondering if the failure mechanism is caused by the washer wearing when the sprocket breaks loose or if it's caused by the hub rotating due to the bolt backing out. If it's caused by the washer, then the MMR hub could fix the problem without necessitating drilling the crankshaft. Not only would that eliminate irreversible modification to the crankshaft, which if done improperly, would be very expensive to fix, but it would also be easier to install.
I’ve only herd of it happening when you kick down and jump the motor to a super high rev My car with 68k on-a GTS tune never had a single issue but I also think it’s be cause of how I drive I never kick down I’m I’m going to a do a pull I simply down shit slowly till I’m at the rpm I want then hit the anti lag and we’re off
what people maybe dont know is that the N55 also can spin the crank hub. i have seen an m2(dct) N55 with upgraded turbo spin its crank hub.
anything above 650+ can spin a hub with the N55. the majority are never getting to that point so it is very rare
Great video, still need to do mine, waiting till I need a new valve cover gasket’s 🤞🏾.
Love everything about the car but the wing.
thank you for the in depth information 🙏🏽. great job a s always.
Great video man 👍 it's definitely wild seeing some cars completely stock having this issue and then others upping the boost and literally having no issues. It's just one of those things that varies per car but when I get an S55 I will definitely be doing this upgrade
Super late comment - just bought a 80k mile m4, would you recommend it on a stock car that has been babied it’s whole life?
In reality, the chance of this happening is extremely low. It really hasn't happened to that many cars but people blow the issue out of proportion. I wouldn't worry about it but at the same time, I'd probably avoid really aggressive kickdowns just cuz. Enjoy the car!
Can you afford it? Are you out of warranty? Then yes. Just take care of it and you’ll never have to worry about it.
In reality, the chances of an accident happening are also low..but do you have insurance? Of course you do..this is that! Why would you not protect your investment if you don’t have a warranty and you can afford the pinned hub? It’s a micro fraction of what these cars are worth.
That’s why I’m afraid of buying an m4
I gotta pay for the car and an extra few thousand dollar to get it fixed before even having fun with it?
M4 is my dream car but it doesn’t make sense to me to buy it and either spend couple thousands on it or don’t fix the crank hub and having it failing on me after a while?🤷🏼♂️
I’m still debating if I should get. The f82 or mk5 Supra because of the crank hub issue
Anyone know averagedly how much something like this would cost in totality?
Why not just a crank bolt capture?
Because that does nothing to solve a spinning crank hub. A capture only ensures the bolt does not back out all of the way. But once a hub spins from a loose bolt, the damage is done
It’s worth 3-4k to drive the car without having to worry + it helps with resale
Good knowledge share. Here in the UK it seems the same. Theres a lot of hype etc. I went for a crank hub capture plate, currently running stage 1 550bhp. Seems all good but I'm never downshifting aggressively. Obviously allow the car to get up to temps before giving it some 👍🏽
where can i get the shirt
thicf30-store.creator-spring.com/search?searchterm=Crank
3M or Inozetek for roof wrap?
Stek black ppf if you want black.
I can’t help but think how much better this guy’s car would look without a spoiler.
Just Google bmw m4. There’s thousands 😂
nah it looks great. wouldnt be a gts without it ;)
@@ThicWhips savage
Are your wheels satin or gloss?
Satin
@@ThicWhips Thats cool I got satin on my f80 I got a stage 2 on mine just downpipe and bootmod3 did u have your s55 tuned before or after crank hub and how many miles did u do if u did before your fix im getting mine down in January just wondered if im safe?!
In my opinion, precision dynamics has the best CH I've seen
For me, i will never buy an N or S55 due to this. If it effects only 3 percent, my luck says it will happen to me.
crank hub is real as a heart attack my shit spun back in February😂
Don’t believe everything you see in these UA-cam videos. Find actual factual advice from professional drivers or race car mechanics that actually push the limits on these cars. Your rear differential seals or turbos will first go bad before you ever have any issues with the crankhub.
Everyone should always do their own research, no matter what. Our opinions or suggestions are based on our experiences and each of us will have our own. I’m just here to share mine
this crank hub issue is the only reason im not buying an M2 rn.
Bro you just read my mind lol. I just got a 2019 m2c with 17k miles and ready to go stage 2 and i am freaking out if i should do it or not.
Yeah man...stage 2 = you better do it. General consensus is anything over Stage 1 you're playing with fire. You might be OK though, it's up to you what your risk tolerance is, some people can easily afford $15k+ for a rebuilt engine
What happens if the crank hub breaks?
Death
if it spins your pistons and valves will crush, you’ll pretty much have to rebuild or buy a new engine. Looking at around 10k+. Rather spend the 3k on the fix
@@gabrieljacoboosorio1928 Stop spreading more fear than is has already been spread. Chisha - 90% of spun hubs result only in the need of retiming, not a complete engine fail. You retime and install an aftermarket hub then. Stop panick. Enjoy the car.
5:07 why are you at a shop 2 -3 days a week
Because I work there.
@@ThicWhips ahh ok that makes sense
The Spot!
I need that shirt
thicf30-store.creator-spring.com/search?searchterm=Crank
crank hub are notoriously know on F8X platform especially on the F80/F82 M3/M4
Dude what is it with the park bench wings bro
That’s where I eat lunch
Manual? Maybe not if you have a capture plate.
DSG? Absolutely. It's not IF but WHEN it'll happen.
EDIT: Let me clarify, if you plan on tuning, get it done no matter what you have. Stock then it's not as big of a problem.
Is the crank hub a problem that B58 owners should worry about?
Nope. Different design.
Nice 👍🏽
the one reason why I didnt buy my M4
Don’t let the hub hold you back from s55 glory brotha
Same sadly. Just bothers me how I have to fix my car before I can upgrade it. I’ve been leaning towards an M6 instead.
It’s only legit when it happens to someone……I would not risk it.
E30 content when?!
Soon
Shops are definitely out here to burn people.. especially fools with M car money 😂
The tails is too high,not original GTS
blaaa blaaa
@@ThicWhips 🤣🤣🤣 you make my day.! We all have different tastes… the car is beautiful, I have a M4cs and a love it.
You all owners hide it so you can sell your cars..its a huge huge real issue ..here 8n my island 60% of all S55 had the issue ..the value of high miles used car will go down like titanic