I just filled large gaps I had in my drywall using your method. I’m a woman, I’ve never done this before, I did theirs all by myself and I followed your instructions step by step. The wall turned out excellent!!! You can’t even tell there was a huge gap there.
Not bad but filling each hole one by one is the old way man lol. Run a line of mud up the whole row of screws from the side of your 6 inch in one pass then back down to take off the access.
"I didn't drywall this job. My friend did." haha throwing him right under the bus! Great job cleaning it all up! I'm doing bedroom in a basement right now and made sure my walls were 100% square before doing the drywall. However, as we all know, nothing is ever square !
Hi, yes I see that all the time when homeowners drywall, they have too big of gaps and just use all purpose compound, and it always looks bad quick. So I thought I would make a video to show how I do it, never have any issues and some jobs Ives taped look the same as it did 15 years ago. Thanks for watching and for the comment
Thank you for this video, it took me forever to find a video that was actually repairing larger cracks in drywall not just doing Simple patches and tape
@BS-dq1kz oh good I'm glad you found my video, I have done too many repairs in my years where they just used all purpose and all the tape broke soon after it was all done
Thank you so much. Fortunately I found this in time. I used the 45 and I was amazed at the gaps that I was able to take care of. I also did the screw head's as you suggested. You really saved me a lot of grief.
No need for quick dry mud unless you are in a huge hurry and don't mind a bucket full of dried out mud. It does NOT take weeks to dry. I have filled some extremely large gaps with all purpose mud in several places and it was fine in a day or two. I have even put tape directly over these large gaps and the tape did NOT bubble.
I'm prepping to replace the failing tape joints on my bedroom ceiling, and found huge half inch gaps between the ceiling, and wall from the installers not cutting the ceiling to the correct length. The drywall is 23 yrs old, and was nailed in so some of the boards moved on me when I did a test area above the doorway to see if I could pull it off with decent results. I ended up screwing the drywall back into place to make it solid again. I'll be using 45 minute mud to get it all done. Hopefully one bag will cover it since I only have to do two walls. If it comes out nice enough I might fix all the bad joints in the house. My dining room's rear wall corner joints are round, and wavy. There's lots of areas that are what I call a DIY nightmare, lol. Thank you for inspiring me to handle all this on my own! The real sad thing is one of my neighbors is a licensed drywall business owner, but he didn't seem super interested in taking the job, and I can't afford him anyway, lol.
I think you might've saved my ass for a project I have today. I lack experience in drywall and struggle typically but trying to work smart today on a kitchen remodel. Sheetrock 90 it is!
So im a lady who is going to attempt the mud and tape. There are pretty good gaps. My hubby got sick and can't finish so I'm gonna attempt it. Thanks for the video it will help me.
I'm glad to hear you found it helpful, I hope your project goes well. There are many steps to do it correct, check out my other videos for tips and tricks
Great tips. People should be aware that 90 and other quick sets harden like concrete and don't skrink as much as all purpose. Apply it tight, especially if used over screw holes.
So glad I saw this video. One of my corners is not plumb at all so there is about a half inch gap in the drywall I put up after removing some old brick. I was about to just mud and tape it. Thank you!
Thanks i am a amateur working on an old house. House was hacked together as it is nothing is level. It's gonna be an appartment so the owner is not looking for super perfect just decent. Its a good learning experiance. I do the best i can and learning along the way. One thing i was doing was using mesh tape with regular compound which is ill advised. Got to use sheet rock 90 for that. Been using paper since. I am going to get 90 though as i have a few big gaps
Thanks for watching and I'm glad it was helpful. Sheetrock is a must and I am glad you switched to paper. You cant go wrong with paper! Hope your project goes well 👍
Used the product and it worked great . Now time for the taping . Had to sand down a couple places my miatake for letting it build up to much and not going back. Thank you
Thank you for this video. I decided to do the sheetrock myself in my kids bedroom and save 2000 $. Let me say I am not a professional actually 1st time doing it and there is some gaps lol. Next I'll be filling them in with the product you recommend. Thank you
That's great! I'm glad this helped. Good luck with your project! feel free to check out some of my other videos if you run into any other issues that you would need some help with. it's always good to save some money :)
Very helpful video! You have saved me a ton of time and frustration. Also, I have to say that I absolutely love the way you say "out." I'm from Minnesoooota so I think I say it ok. Buy you. You have perfected it!
Thanks for the comment! I'm glad you found it helpful and that it saved you time. I was in Minnesota once a long time ago. I had a couple friends that were from there and they use to say uufta lol I use to get a laugh from that. Anyways thanks again for watching and for the comment 😊👍
@@TheCanadianHomePainter Early in my life I lived in Portland, OR. There I worked hard to eliminate any accents or sayings that would identify me as a foreigner. I have long since learned to embrace my birth culture and so I will commonly be heard saying uufta, ya sure and you betcha. :) I even will through in a Canadian eh from time to time to show respect to a country that has managed their fish way better than mine. I will be checking out your videos as I continue my project.
@@thegoodenoughangler yes I recall my friends saying all of that lol, I spent a year traveling in America when I was in my early 20s and I totally cut out eh from my vocab. The people I was around would constantly mock me for it lol. When I returned home to Canada I was shocked at how much we say it. It just is apart of everyday conversation. Now the "about" and " out" were much harder to get rid of but I did my best while living in your country. I was able to visit over 40 states while traveling and it was one of the best years of my life. I have such fond memories of my time down there. In so many ways we are very similar and other ways much different. But I am always connected to the US through family and friends I have there. Good luck with the projects! Let me know if you run into any snags along the way 👍
Thanks for watching and for the comment, glad you found this helpful, it is a very important step, I have been in too many houses that used all purpose to fill the gaps and most of the tape bubbled and looks terrible. Good luck with the project
I’ve heard that hot mud isn’t ideal over nails/screws because the hot mud needs a certain thickness to properly cure. The manufacturer usually says the mud is not for thin applications like you would do over nails.
Oh boy, is there an easy way to remove the compound after it’s been applied? I didn’t see this video until after I asked my local Home Depot for advice on how to do this. I can see I was given the wrong advice. Thanks for your help.
I am sorry to hear you received bad advice from the HD. No need to worry though, you can remove it, if it is a matter of it being to heavy and now in need a good sanding. I would go back to the home depot, get some heavy grit sanding blocks, buy a bunch and with some hard sanding by hand you will be able to smooth it out. Hope this helps! Home depot may even give you the blocks for free for the bad advice given to you. Good luck !
Thanks! Yes 45 is faster drying and there is even a sheetrock 20 I believe, I find I always mix too much with the 90 so I just stick with that . Thanks for watching and for the comment
@@TheCanadianHomePainter Quick question - what is the difference between Sheetrock 90 and the joint compound used with the paper tape? Not challenging just curious. I did Google it but I got thoroughly confused. 😂😂 Thanks
@@boyshanks the sheetrock 90 dries fast, it will be rock hard in about 90 minutes, so it's awesome for filling large gaps, it also doesn't shrink. Gives a great base for the tape , the all purpose compound take alot long to dry and it is great for applying the tape with.
Question for The CHP (Canadian Home Painter). I recently moved into an old house and the bedroom has vertical tongue and grove solid cedar walls that has 3 seams in between each 8inch wide panel which gives me vertigo and reminds me of prison bars. Can you or anyone reading this let me know if Sheetrock 90 is something I can use to fill in all the seams? ....given they are about 7 feet high. Many thanks. Great video.
Hey! Thanks for the question I have never used sheetrock 90nin a case like that, so I can't speak from experience, the only thing I would worry about is the wood expanding and contracting over the different season, and inwonder if the seams would Crack. But maybe you live in a southern climate and don't get the extreme cold winters, I know here everything expands and contracts so much over the year. Perhaps someone in the comment section might have some good ideas , I have used DAP paintable caulking to seal up gaps if they are not to large, because it's flexible ( to a point) and with expand when needed Sorry I couldn't be of more help
@@TheCanadianHomePainter Thank you so much for replying. Yes, you are right, after researching I found out that the wood will indeed expand and contract cracking ever seam over time. I finally realize that I will need to sheetrock over all the walls if I want a smooth finish. Thanks again for replying and for posting your videos. I'm a fan and learning a lot from them. All the best to you. M
Should anything be done differently if this is on an interior wall and theres nothing behind the gap to press the mud against? Just empty cavity. Thanks
It's not as big of a deal if the moisture from the compound has somewhere to escape, it is all open behind it can escape there as opposed to coming through the tape and ruining it after it's painted, Obviously without seeing the project it's hard for me to definitively say , but as long as the wet compound can dry proper you should be good
A better and much faster way is spraying a thin bead of insulation foam into the gaps. It will be dry in 10 minutes, 15 minutes tops. Take a utility blade and trim the access foam that may be sticking out and start mudding. Don't have to wait for sheetrock to dry and then sand. Expansion foam makes the perfect backing for when you are mudding. You can have gaps that are a couple of inches or more and it will dry within 10 minutes or so and you can mud. on straight joints, you can actually get away with not putting mesh tape or paper tape because expansion foam doesn't shrink and crack. Just apply mud and when its dry you can sand. No tape is needed. If it is a corner joint then you need to use paper tape. This method is much quicker and easier.
Interesting, I have never seen this method in all my years. How does it hold up over time? I mean the sheetrock is just so rock hard I think for longevity it would be better to use sheetrock, but it sounds like it would be something try, I think I would hesitate for a client because I would worry about cracking over time but maybe I'm wrong. How long have you used this method and do you ever have things crack over time ?
@@TheCanadianHomePainter Great question. I learned this method from a contractor who was a professional taper (union) before he became a general contractor. He showed me this method and I was shocked. I thought he was joking. Never heard of it before. I was working on a home renovation through him and he showed me this. It worked perfectly. I started doing this method ever since. I learned this back in 2013. I am a journeyman drywaller and metal framer. I left the union and started doing home renovations for myself. Most of my work involves framing, drywall, taping, and painting but I do flooring, kitchen and bathroom remodels, etc. I have been in this line of work since 2003. I have customers who I have been working for on and off for the past 7 years. I renovated their basements, kitchens or bathrooms, etc. They call me for minor stuff like painting some room or installing ceiling fans or changing light fixtures or working on their new homes. I know that in the homes that I have been in during the past 7 years, not once has this method resulted in a cracked joint. It works flawlessly for me. It is the fastest, easiest, and best way, in my opinion, to repair big gaps when the drywalling was done very poorly, or when doing a repair when a new sheet of drywall is joined to an existing sheet which often leaves a large gap in the joint. The only thing I suggest is that you use an expansion foam gun. The metal one that you can buy because it can shoot a very thin bead of foam in a controlled matter. The plastic triggers that come with some foam cans are not good because you can't really control precisely the flow of the foam and it will cause an overflow of the foam and you will have to trim a lot of the foam with a blade when it drys. The pro metal guns are recommended if you do these types of repairs on a regular basis. You can get them at home depot. I was shocked and surprised when I first learned this but now I am surprised that most journeyman tapers don't know about this. Give it a try!
@@BushcraftArnold Thanks for sharing. I'd love to try this in an upcoming renovation. Which brand/type of spray foam do you use (e.g. Window & Door vs Big Gaps)?
boy did you save my day! thanks!!! Also, I joined two sheets of drywall improperly. I joined a tapered seam with a butt seam. One is higher than the other when I joined them. Any suggestions how to fix this? People told me to notch a 'V' and then fill the gap with mud and tape. Any suggestions?
Thanks for watching and for the comment, I'm always glad to hear that this video was helpful. As for the taping of the joints. Sometimes that happens, ideally you want two tapered edges or two butt joints to come together, but in that case what I do is just put the tape on with the drywall compound and I just feather it out over the next few coats. Sometimes I will put more thin coats then usual like i do with two but joints. You can try cutting the one edge down but for me i wouldn't if I was doing it. Hope it works out for you. But just keep in mind feathering it out nice and wide and more thin coats to help it blend. Hope this helps !
Hello! I'm a beginner working on my first dry wall project and I'm honestly a bit scared lol. I had never heard of sheetrock 90 and I know I'm going to need it because I have many large gaps in my sheetrock and this product looks great at fixing it! I'm from the US and I was wondering if you know by any chance if it's also called sheetrock 90 here? Thank you so much!
Good information but if im covering the area with wallpaper after the filling the gap w sheetrock 90, do I still need to tape and apply the sheetrock compound? Thx
Thanks ! Good question, I suppose if the wallpaper will be covering up all the surface you wouldn't have to tape, now when you wallpaper over a surface that isn't painted, it might be difficult to remove it later on, if you think you will be removing later down the road you might want to finish the wall so removal will be easier, if you don't think you will be the kne to take it off then it will be the next person's problem haha Hope this helps Thanks for watching and for the question
I did a ceiling patch but there is maybe a 3/16" or 1/4" gap. This gap is mostly open to my attic. I'm not sure if I should just lay down compound then tape then compound like I did on the wall, or I should prefill...my main concern is if I don't prefill it not doing a good enough job keeping attic heat out. But now it seems prefilling requires Sheetrock 90 instead of all-purpose joint compound? Let me know what you think. I was going to fill a syringe with compound and squirt it up in there at least 1/2" deep to equal the sheetrock.
Hi Joe, thanks for watching and for the comment and questions. Without seeing the area in question it is hard for me to say what is the best way to approach the issue. But personally I always like to use the sheetrock 90. If you are able to use it, thstvis what I would do. Would it be possible to take a photo of the area and post it in the comment section ?
@@TheCanadianHomePainter I can't. Too stupid...just spent 20 minutes trying to figure it out. My other question is should I scrape/sand away the existing ceiling finish around the joints so that it's flatter after I tape and mud?
@@robloxvids2233 you want the finish to be as flat as possible, before you prime and paint, if it isnt you will see it when you paint . What I like to do after the mudding and sanding is done, I take a bright light and shine it in different areas to give me an idea of spot that need more sanding. Hope this helps
Thank you for your very helpful videos. Home Depot and Lowes have Durabond 90. Is that the correct product? I understand that the Easy Sand 90 would not be as strong.
I saw someone profiling his butt joints with the quick set, then coming back and taping later with mud. Is that what you do? Or do you tape with quick set to ?
After removing paneling I found where the previous owners cut 1 inch wide trenchcuts in the drywall to hide speaker wire before putting paneling over it. No I want to skim the drywall and paint it. Will this work for that? I can't get any furring strips behind it.
Yes, it has difference materials in it, I think a bit of cement as well, so it dries very hard like a rock, difficult to sand but the idea is that you won't require too much sanding
Great video!! Much appreciated. Did you cut v grooves where the big gaps at the butt joints were? Why or why not? Also, why paper tape rather than mesh tape over the big cracks?
Thanks for watching! I can remember if I cut grooves or not, but with butt joints I weather out the Mudd alot so no to see the joint at all, I find that paper is much better then mesh, I know many drywallers who will say the opposite but I fi d that houses I work in that have the most cracks in drywall is 95% of the time with mesh tape. You can get it with paper too but much less likely I'm my opinion. I think paper is just alot stronger it does require you to put a bit more Mudd and really feather it out to make things loom right. Hope this help
Thank you. What is your opinion on v grooves for butt joints that have pretty big gaps? I am a VERY first time DIY and I just bought a house where all the joints in the vaulted ceiling need to be repaired. (I was completely unaware at the time of purchase) anyway, any extra tips/advice would be MUCH appreciated ❤
@@caseyhamiter1289 yes I know that alot of drywallers will cut a v in the buttjoints , I don't usually, just make sure big gaps have the sheetrock 90 Vaulted ceilings are really great but usually many repairs over time, even if it's constructed well , you still need to make repairs from time to time, I have many other videos you should take a look at, it will help you with a variety of things on your home.
Love the info. Is there a difference between sheetrock 90 and joint compound? Cant I just use the sheetrock 90 as a gap filler, then after it drys, use it again with the tape?
I already filled large gaps with Multipurpose premixed joint compound. The gaps were 1/4 - 3/4", & there were several large holes (silver dollar sized) that I filled with the same compound. Now what do I do? I sure wish I'd seen this BEFORE I did this...
Honest truth, I've seen do called pros do a worse job hanging. A crooked house is hard to hang. But a professional had aught to cut the sheet ¼"-0 or cut a belly in a sheet if necessary
Yep us pro finishers know how to make anything look good. I've done some crazy stuff that probably should have just been re hung. But who's got the money to pay for drywall twice. The finished product is what matters
Great video!! I appreciate the timelapse🔥 Quick question, since Durabond 90/45 is hard to sand, what do you do when pre-filling yhe large gaps and screws after it dries? Do you just make sure to apply enough to fill gaps and not enough to need sending? Hope you are still active on your channel looking forward to more of your content.
Hi! Thanks for the comment !! Yes I'm still active , I try to put out atleast 1 video a week. Not always the case but I do my best. As for the question about sanding, I smooth it out with my 6 " drywall knife and then everything gets coated with all purpose after, the corners and flat joints get taped and all screws get another couple coats and then at the end I do a final sanding. Just try to get it as smooth as possible either your drywall knife. If you need to sand, I use a fairly gritty sanding block which helps the process
@@TheCanadianHomePainter thank you very much for such a thorough response brother. Truly appreciate. Looking forward to your future content. Subscribed!
@@TheCanadianHomePainter Thanks for responding to Esteylon's comment - because I had the same question! I'll be sure to keep this layer pretty shallow (with my knife) so I don't have to sand it - and can just top coat with an easier sanding layer later! Cheers!
Thanks for the video. What is the main diff in result between the 90 and the 45? Thanks also for letting me know what would happen if I didn't do this step. Also, can I just use the 90 and skip using the regular low dust USG 3.5 gal bucket of mud that I also purchased?Thanks.
Hi sorry for the late reply, the difference is mainly the set up time between the 2, 90 starts to set up in about 90 mins where 45 is about 45 minutes. I like having a bit more time to use it .90 is only for the gaps
I have a small patch about 18 x 14 in with one side having a 1/4 in gap between butt joints. Do I really have to buy 18 pounds of setting compound to do this crack? Small quantities scarce, sold out, unavailable now. Trip to store, most of it leftover, will never be used again. It is hard not to just give all purpose compound a try instead.
A quarter inch isn't terrible, it's too.bad they are out of the small bags, all I would say is if yiu do use regular compound , make sure you give it enough time to dry, there can't be any moisture left before you prime and paint or it will bubble and look terrible
Can I use the Sheetrock 90 on the ceiling? The 5/8 fire board is pretty heavy for me and I had to cut it down a bit to work with it. Short story is that I have pieces of ceiling that are not flush butt joints. I’m contemplating installing 1/4” over the 5/8, as I can certainly manage the lighter board on my own. As an amateur with mudding, I’m thinking the fewer seams I have s equates to fewer eye sores. That said, the Sheetrock 90 may help correct my learning curve. Thx in advance, Chris
Yes you're right chris fewer joints the better, that 5/8" stuff is very heavy and not easy to work with. I use sheetrock 90 on ceiling and walls wherever the gaps and cracks need it. Going over it again with 1/4 " seems like alot of work but then again it might cut down on how much mudd you need to do. Only use the sheetrock for large gaps dont use it for anything else. Unless you use metal beaded corners that get nailed on then a first coat of sheetrock isnt a bad idea
The reg compound all purpose is generally what is used for applying the tape to the joints, the 90 is a bit different, it sets up hard in about 90 mins and so you wouldnt want to use it for tapering and it gets very hard. Like a rock lol so it is great for pre filling gaps that you might have in the drywall. All purpose would take weeks to properly cure and you would have major problems. Hope this answer helps you out. Thanks for watching and for the comment
Just did my garage myself and it’s not the best but it’s honest work . I have multiple gaps and plan on doing this. I just would really appreciate some guidance on making sure this would all be good in the long run. As far as the tape and mud , what are some key points to look out for ?
Hi! Thanks for watching and for the comment, I do have some other drywall videos on my channel that you might find helpful, I always use paper tape for my projects and here where I live CGC compound is the preferred product, personally I pay a bit extra for what is called dust control all purpose, when it is sanded it doesn't go airborne the dust drops to the ground. For sanding I like using the sanding blocks and the pole sander blocks aswell. Good luck with the project. The most important step is filling the gaps correctly, so you are on the right path 👍🏻
im hoping its not way to late to ask this, but im in a pinch and i dont have any 90 or 20 can i use some "Premix" in its place,? i dont have many more options so its either that or cut a little more back and put in a piece of backing board. Penny for your thoughts!
I wouldn't use premix , depending on how big the gaps are, the premix will take a long time to be dry and have no moisture left in it. If it isn't dry and you tape over it that moisture will push through the tape and that's why the tape will bubble and break. Filling the gap with drywall board is a better idea if you can't get sheetrock 90. Hope this helps
@@TheCanadianHomePainter thank you SO MUCH for your reply! I'm sure your probably a busy guy so I know it ain't easy to respond back to every message you receive.
Hi, thanks for the question. I only use sheetrock 90 for prefill gaps. I use CGC compounds for the taping portion. I only use the paper tape , I never use the mess tape. I find the paper tape to be the best
Hey, sorry for late reply, I was going to suggest going to a home depot and asking if they carry it. But now that you mention easy sand 90, I believe another American once told me that. Hope it works well for you, thanks for watching and for the comment
@@cb7963 haha yeah I've had people tell me that before, I wasn't even aware of asmr until some other were commenting on videos that I did voice overs on. Thanks for the compliment And yes keep me posted on how things turn out with the easy sand
@@TheCanadianHomePainter A followup if you don't mind. Other videos talk about pairing hot mud with mesh tape. Do you do this in certain instances? For example, if the gaps had been wider or deeper in this video? Thanks in advance.
I know this video was posted a couple years ago. But you mentioned it hardens in 90 minutes. Is this an all pourpose drywall mud? You said 90 but my brand name memory is shiite!
Hey, yeah it's been a couple years since I did this. Always surprised with how many views some videos can get. To answer your question, for filling large gaps like this I use sheetrock 90, it is in powder form and you mix it with water, it starts to harden up in about 90 mins. It is rock hard in probably 2 hours give or take
I tried to find the sheetrock 90 "cgc product" at Lowe's and online, but can only find the sheetrock 90 "usg product". Can you please tell me what the difference is between these two products and if it even matters if one is cgc, and the other is usg. They both look like they are made by the same manufacturer, and they are both sheetrock 90, but does it even matter if the product is either cgc, or usg? if you see this question and it seems like a stupid one, please forgive me, I am a single woman who is doing my own home reno. Thanks.
Hi there, not a dumb question, I actually had to do some searching to find what the difference is and as far as I can tell, USG is the parent company so the product should be the same. And maybe if you're in the states it's usg and canada and other countries are cgc. Anyways hope that helps 👍🏻
The sheet rock 90 is just to give you a good strong backing, after it is dry that's when I apply the tape and use all purpose compound, the 90 isn't for the finishing just for filling the gaps
Hi, thank a lot for these so useful video. I have a somebody helping to rebuild my flooded basement. He is very kind but not very handy with gypsum board fixings. The walls were cut at 25 inches from the floor (should be 24 inches). Also, the house is from 1975 so it seems to be a nasty amount of old paint layers and once the new gypsum board panel is installed there is quite a difference between the old and the new in the junctions. My helper cut the gypsum board not very tight to the dimensions to be repaired I have lots of gaps like the ones in the video everywhere. All the exterior walls are to be done, I'm worry there will be another series of gaps. If I understand well, what I need to do to fix the gaps and make all my joints is: 1) fill the gaps with sheetrock 90 taking care of don't let excesses around; 2) once dry, apply paper tape as usual. It is, apply mud, then tape, then flatten the tape against mud, let it dry and apply mud again and again as needed until arrive to a nice surface. Is it exact? Do I need to use mesh tape or because I filled the gaps with sheetrock 90, should I use only paper tape and All Purpose ready mixed drywall compound then?. Why people say you can't use mesh tape with All purpose drywall compound? I thought you needed to use mesh tape to keep the compound from cracking and falling apart from the big gaps. Thanks you very much.
It sounds like you got it. Follow those steps and your good. Mesh tape is a product I personally never use and have only seen issues at homes where mesh was used. Stick with the paper and you will be happy with the durability of the final product
Can the Sheetrock 90 be used if the walls have already been painted? Whoever lived here before never bothered filling in the gaps, they just went ahead and painted the walls leaving all 4 corners of the room with giant gaps.
Hi, no poly fill will not work to fill these types of cracks, if you show them a photo at the building store, they should know what product is best used there. You need it to dry quick and very hard to be a good base. Hope this answers your question, let me know how it works out for you
Would it be fair to say that whether we use 90, 45, 20, or 5 drywall compound the primary goal is to fill wide gaps first before taping or does the 90/45/20/5 mud have different physical properties other than cure time? I have all of them at my house and typically swap based on how long I need to apply my batch. Most of my jobs are small
The biggest between those three is dry time, the 90 gives me the most time to work with, 45 cuts that in half, typically sheetrock 90 will be set up and fairly hard in 90 mins, 45 minutes, 20 minutes
That can be a bit harder to do, because if the compound isn't thick enough, or to wet it will not stick, but if the consistency is like smooth peanut butter lol ( the only thing I can think of as an example) Then it should work and it will make taping it better to have a more solid corner to apply the paper tape hope this explanation helps 👍🏻
Yes it can, I prefer the 90 because it gives me a bit more time to work with. 45 will start to get harder quicker, but yes you can there is even a 20 which dries even faster
@@TheCanadianHomePainter wow, that was quick! I bought a bag of 45 recently and thought I might have to go back and get another bag of 90. It's good to know that either can be used to acquire the same results. Time to patch up my amature and multi-gapped sheetrock project lol! Thanks again for the info. I'm glad to know that all is not lost.
I just filled large gaps I had in my drywall using your method. I’m a woman, I’ve never done this before, I did theirs all by myself and I followed your instructions step by step. The wall turned out excellent!!! You can’t even tell there was a huge gap there.
That's great! I'm glad you found this helpful and was successful.
Thanks for the comment 😊
Thank you! You saved the day. My amateur sheet rocking have gaps all over. Your solution is perfect!
Hi Joseph, thanks for your comment, I am always glad to hear that my video was helpful for you.
Haha same here
Not bad but filling each hole one by one is the old way man lol. Run a line of mud up the whole row of screws from the side of your 6 inch in one pass then back down to take off the access.
Super helpful information. Thanks
Sheet rock 90 is the compound your using correct.?
"I didn't drywall this job. My friend did." haha throwing him right under the bus! Great job cleaning it all up! I'm doing bedroom in a basement right now and made sure my walls were 100% square before doing the drywall. However, as we all know, nothing is ever square !
Haha yeah, but it was his first time drywalling so I guess he did ok 👍🏻
And you're right things are seldom square or level
WOW. My previous homeowner used regular compound with tape and its now separating. So glad I found this.
Hi, yes I see that all the time when homeowners drywall, they have too big of gaps and just use all purpose compound, and it always looks bad quick. So I thought I would make a video to show how I do it, never have any issues and some jobs Ives taped look the same as it did 15 years ago. Thanks for watching and for the comment
You drywall guys make it look so easy... Thanks for your help!
Thanks for watching and for your comment. I'm glad you found it helpful 👍🏻
Thank you for this video, it took me forever to find a video that was actually repairing larger cracks in drywall not just doing Simple patches and tape
I'm glad to hear that it was a helpful video, I have always had good luck with sheetrock 90 for these types of gaps.
Thanks for watching
@Barry Wardell your reply is useless and non-constructive. Move along troll
I have a feeling you saved me! My husband went out of town and left me to do this but with regular mud. We have some gaps that large.
@BS-dq1kz oh good I'm glad you found my video, I have done too many repairs in my years where they just used all purpose and all the tape broke soon after it was all done
Thank you so much. Fortunately I found this in time. I used the 45 and I was amazed at the gaps that I was able to take care of. I also did the screw head's as you suggested. You really saved me a lot of grief.
I'm always glad to hear that my video was helpful, thanks for commenting and letting me know. 😊👍🏻
Danny How did the 45 hold up?
No need for quick dry mud unless you are in a huge hurry and don't mind a bucket full of dried out mud. It does NOT take weeks to dry. I have filled some extremely large gaps with all purpose mud in several places and it was fine in a day or two. I have even put tape directly over these large gaps and the tape did NOT bubble.
Great video. I had wide gaps in a couple areas of the sheetrock and you had the golden answer - quick-dry 90. Thank you, Sir. Well done.
You're welcome! I'm always glad to hear that people found this video helpful, thanks for watching and for the comment
I'm prepping to replace the failing tape joints on my bedroom ceiling, and found huge half inch gaps between the ceiling, and wall from the installers not cutting the ceiling to the correct length. The drywall is 23 yrs old, and was nailed in so some of the boards moved on me when I did a test area above the doorway to see if I could pull it off with decent results. I ended up screwing the drywall back into place to make it solid again.
I'll be using 45 minute mud to get it all done. Hopefully one bag will cover it since I only have to do two walls. If it comes out nice enough I might fix all the bad joints in the house. My dining room's rear wall corner joints are round, and wavy. There's lots of areas that are what I call a DIY nightmare, lol. Thank you for inspiring me to handle all this on my own! The real sad thing is one of my neighbors is a licensed drywall business owner, but he didn't seem super interested in taking the job, and I can't afford him anyway, lol.
Thanks for the comment and you are welcome. I'm always glad to hear that my videos were helpful.
Good luck with the project 👍🏻 hope it turns out great
I think you might've saved my ass for a project I have today. I lack experience in drywall and struggle typically but trying to work smart today on a kitchen remodel. Sheetrock 90 it is!
Yes filling all gaps with sheetrock before tape is always a must! Glad you found this video helpful
So im a lady who is going to attempt the mud and tape. There are pretty good gaps. My hubby got sick and can't finish so I'm gonna attempt it.
Thanks for the video it will help me.
I'm glad to hear you found it helpful, I hope your project goes well. There are many steps to do it correct, check out my other videos for tips and tricks
@@TheCanadianHomePainter thank you i will do that.
I'm so sorry to hear that your hubby got sick. I hope he recovers and that you are able to complete the work. God bless you both.
Great tips. People should be aware that 90 and other quick sets harden like concrete and don't skrink as much as all purpose. Apply it tight, especially if used over screw holes.
That seems like a good bit of drywall advice, thank you! Appreciate this.
Thank you for the comment ! Very much appreciated
Thanks this gave me the info I needed but it would’ve helped to spend a moment explaining what sheet rock 90 is! Cheers
Its drywall mud that hardens in 90 minutes
Nice and straightforward video to help me in 2024. Thanks for the video handy Jim Halpert 😅
You have a soothing voice sir. Great video!!!
Thank you for the comment, I appreciate it. 🙏
So glad I saw this video. One of my corners is not plumb at all so there is about a half inch gap in the drywall I put up after removing some old brick. I was about to just mud and tape it. Thank you!
Thanks for the comment I appreciate it, always glad to hear that people find this video helpful.
Thanks i am a amateur working on an old house. House was hacked together as it is nothing is level. It's gonna be an appartment so the owner is not looking for super perfect just decent. Its a good learning experiance. I do the best i can and learning along the way. One thing i was doing was using mesh tape with regular compound which is ill advised. Got to use sheet rock 90 for that. Been using paper since. I am going to get 90 though as i have a few big gaps
Thanks for watching and I'm glad it was helpful. Sheetrock is a must and I am glad you switched to paper. You cant go wrong with paper! Hope your project goes well 👍
Used the product and it worked great . Now time for the taping . Had to sand down a couple places my miatake for letting it build up to much and not going back. Thank you
That's great! Glad it worked out for you 👍
Thank you for this video. I decided to do the sheetrock myself in my kids bedroom and save 2000 $. Let me say I am not a professional actually 1st time doing it and there is some gaps lol. Next I'll be filling them in with the product you recommend. Thank you
That's great! I'm glad this helped. Good luck with your project! feel free to check out some of my other videos if you run into any other issues that you would need some help with. it's always good to save some money :)
They wanted 2000 to drywall a bedroom? What state
@@christopherr7195 yeah maybe if it was a giant bedroom and I had to hang it all and bed it in and no ac of lights I’d charge 2000 lmfao
Thanks man! Nice explanation why you should not use premixed stuff!
You're welcome, glad you found it helpful 😊
Thank you! Last time I filed gaps I waited 24 hours for the mud to dry “enough” and got bubbles in my tape :/ Now I know to use fast drying mud!
You are very welcome! I have seen that issue in many houses. I'm glad that you found my video helpful 👍🏻
Another great video! I guess I just have a thing for Canadian drywallers. Great job and info, thanks for sharing. :)
Thanks! Glad you found the video helpful 😊🇨🇦
Very helpful video! You have saved me a ton of time and frustration. Also, I have to say that I absolutely love the way you say "out." I'm from Minnesoooota so I think I say it ok. Buy you. You have perfected it!
Thanks for the comment! I'm glad you found it helpful and that it saved you time. I was in Minnesota once a long time ago. I had a couple friends that were from there and they use to say uufta lol I use to get a laugh from that. Anyways thanks again for watching and for the comment 😊👍
@@TheCanadianHomePainter Early in my life I lived in Portland, OR. There I worked hard to eliminate any accents or sayings that would identify me as a foreigner. I have long since learned to embrace my birth culture and so I will commonly be heard saying uufta, ya sure and you betcha. :) I even will through in a Canadian eh from time to time to show respect to a country that has managed their fish way better than mine. I will be checking out your videos as I continue my project.
@@thegoodenoughangler yes I recall my friends saying all of that lol, I spent a year traveling in America when I was in my early 20s and I totally cut out eh from my vocab. The people I was around would constantly mock me for it lol. When I returned home to Canada I was shocked at how much we say it. It just is apart of everyday conversation. Now the "about" and " out" were much harder to get rid of but I did my best while living in your country. I was able to visit over 40 states while traveling and it was one of the best years of my life. I have such fond memories of my time down there. In so many ways we are very similar and other ways much different. But I am always connected to the US through family and friends I have there.
Good luck with the projects! Let me know if you run into any snags along the way 👍
Thank you so much for this video! Been filling up big gaps this afternoon
You're very welcome, I'm glad you found it helpful
Thanks for the video and for explaining the 90 minute mud in comments.
Your welcome, thanks for watching
Excellent video! You explain in layman's terms! Cheers
Thanks for watching and for the comment. It's always nice to get a comment like that
Thank You! My ocd has been off the wall but now I can fix the horrible gap
Thanks for commenting, I'm glad my video was able to help 👍🏻
I too have OCD, so I get it 😉
Helpful video man, I'm doing the walls of my basement right now to save some money...first time so yeah, got some gaps...trying to make it work though
Thanks for watching and for the comment, glad you found this helpful, it is a very important step, I have been in too many houses that used all purpose to fill the gaps and most of the tape bubbled and looks terrible. Good luck with the project
I’ve heard that hot mud isn’t ideal over nails/screws because the hot mud needs a certain thickness to properly cure. The manufacturer usually says the mud is not for thin applications like you would do over nails.
Did they put enough screws in it
Thank you. You are a life savior 🙏🏿
You're welcome
Great video! Perfect timing since I will be finishing my garage. I did notice that you didn't cover the screws by the edges. Why is that?
Thanks
I think I got those screws after the video, I guess I was just focused on gap for the video.
Thanks for watching and for thr comment
Thanks for the helpful video. Much appreciated.
Can see the way you do your work you're a professional
Thanks Michael, I always try to do my best work. I'm glad you found the video helpful 😊 thanks for watching and for the comment
Oh boy, is there an easy way to remove the compound after it’s been applied? I didn’t see this video until after I asked my local Home Depot for advice on how to do this. I can see I was given the wrong advice. Thanks for your help.
I am sorry to hear you received bad advice from the HD. No need to worry though, you can remove it, if it is a matter of it being to heavy and now in need a good sanding. I would go back to the home depot, get some heavy grit sanding blocks, buy a bunch and with some hard sanding by hand you will be able to smooth it out. Hope this helps! Home depot may even give you the blocks for free for the bad advice given to you. Good luck !
Good video on the subject. Useful. The stiff mud is the critical bit. 45 mud also works faster ;-)
Thanks! Yes 45 is faster drying and there is even a sheetrock 20 I believe, I find I always mix too much with the 90 so I just stick with that .
Thanks for watching and for the comment
@@TheCanadianHomePainter Quick question - what is the difference between Sheetrock 90 and the joint compound used with the paper tape?
Not challenging just curious. I did Google it but I got thoroughly confused. 😂😂 Thanks
@@boyshanks the sheetrock 90 dries fast, it will be rock hard in about 90 minutes, so it's awesome for filling large gaps, it also doesn't shrink. Gives a great base for the tape , the all purpose compound take alot long to dry and it is great for applying the tape with.
Question for The CHP (Canadian Home Painter). I recently moved into an old house and the bedroom has vertical tongue and grove solid cedar walls that has 3 seams in between each 8inch wide panel which gives me vertigo and reminds me of prison bars. Can you or anyone reading this let me know if Sheetrock 90 is something I can use to fill in all the seams? ....given they are about 7 feet high. Many thanks. Great video.
Hey! Thanks for the question I have never used sheetrock 90nin a case like that, so I can't speak from experience, the only thing I would worry about is the wood expanding and contracting over the different season, and inwonder if the seams would Crack. But maybe you live in a southern climate and don't get the extreme cold winters, I know here everything expands and contracts so much over the year. Perhaps someone in the comment section might have some good ideas , I have used DAP paintable caulking to seal up gaps if they are not to large, because it's flexible ( to a point) and with expand when needed
Sorry I couldn't be of more help
@@TheCanadianHomePainter Thank you so much for replying. Yes, you are right, after researching I found out that the wood will indeed expand and contract cracking ever seam over time.
I finally realize that I will need to sheetrock over all the walls if I want a smooth finish.
Thanks again for replying and for posting your videos. I'm a fan and learning a lot from them.
All the best to you. M
@M. I. thanks I appreciate that !
Show me a picture of Sheetrock 90 . Thanks
Those walls are goin nowhere! Your friend screwed down for dayyyyyyyys 🤦♂️
Great video
Hahaha yes he did
thank you for this video. very well explained!
You're very welcome , I appreciate the comment !
Should anything be done differently if this is on an interior wall and theres nothing behind the gap to press the mud against? Just empty cavity. Thanks
It's not as big of a deal if the moisture from the compound has somewhere to escape, it is all open behind it can escape there as opposed to coming through the tape and ruining it after it's painted,
Obviously without seeing the project it's hard for me to definitively say , but as long as the wet compound can dry proper you should be good
Sheetrock 90. Thank You sir.
You're welcome
A better and much faster way is spraying a thin bead of insulation foam into the gaps. It will be dry in 10 minutes, 15 minutes tops. Take a utility blade and trim the access foam that may be sticking out and start mudding. Don't have to wait for sheetrock to dry and then sand. Expansion foam makes the perfect backing for when you are mudding. You can have gaps that are a couple of inches or more and it will dry within 10 minutes or so and you can mud. on straight joints, you can actually get away with not putting mesh tape or paper tape because expansion foam doesn't shrink and crack. Just apply mud and when its dry you can sand. No tape is needed. If it is a corner joint then you need to use paper tape. This method is much quicker and easier.
Interesting, I have never seen this method in all my years. How does it hold up over time? I mean the sheetrock is just so rock hard I think for longevity it would be better to use sheetrock, but it sounds like it would be something try, I think I would hesitate for a client because I would worry about cracking over time but maybe I'm wrong. How long have you used this method and do you ever have things crack over time ?
@@TheCanadianHomePainter Great question. I learned this method from a contractor who was a professional taper (union) before he became a general contractor. He showed me this method and I was shocked. I thought he was joking. Never heard of it before. I was working on a home renovation through him and he showed me this. It worked perfectly. I started doing this method ever since.
I learned this back in 2013. I am a journeyman drywaller and metal framer. I left the union and started doing home renovations for myself. Most of my work involves framing, drywall, taping, and painting but I do flooring, kitchen and bathroom remodels, etc. I have been in this line of work since 2003.
I have customers who I have been working for on and off for the past 7 years. I renovated their basements, kitchens or bathrooms, etc. They call me for minor stuff like painting some room or installing ceiling fans or changing light fixtures or working on their new homes.
I know that in the homes that I have been in during the past 7 years, not once has this method resulted in a cracked joint. It works flawlessly for me.
It is the fastest, easiest, and best way, in my opinion, to repair big gaps when the drywalling was done very poorly, or when doing a repair when a new sheet of drywall is joined to an existing sheet which often leaves a large gap in the joint.
The only thing I suggest is that you use an expansion foam gun. The metal one that you can buy because it can shoot a very thin bead of foam in a controlled matter. The plastic triggers that come with some foam cans are not good because you can't really control precisely the flow of the foam and it will cause an overflow of the foam and you will have to trim a lot of the foam with a blade when it drys. The pro metal guns are recommended if you do these types of repairs on a regular basis. You can get them at home depot.
I was shocked and surprised when I first learned this but now I am surprised that most journeyman tapers don't know about this.
Give it a try!
@@BushcraftArnold Thanks for sharing. I'd love to try this in an upcoming renovation. Which brand/type of spray foam do you use (e.g. Window & Door vs Big Gaps)?
@@winstonsmith2227 Hi found a video that shows you how to do it . He shows you at the 7:28 minute mark. ua-cam.com/video/BUcT5LHmA7w/v-deo.html
@@winstonsmith2227 I use Great Stuff door and window. The blue can
boy did you save my day! thanks!!! Also, I joined two sheets of drywall improperly. I joined a tapered seam with a butt seam. One is higher than the other when I joined them. Any suggestions how to fix this? People told me to notch a 'V' and then fill the gap with mud and tape. Any suggestions?
Thanks for watching and for the comment, I'm always glad to hear that this video was helpful.
As for the taping of the joints. Sometimes that happens, ideally you want two tapered edges or two butt joints to come together, but in that case what I do is just put the tape on with the drywall compound and I just feather it out over the next few coats. Sometimes I will put more thin coats then usual like i do with two but joints. You can try cutting the one edge down but for me i wouldn't if I was doing it. Hope it works out for you. But just keep in mind feathering it out nice and wide and more thin coats to help it blend. Hope this helps !
Durabond 90, or EasySand 90 (or 45, or 20, in the USG Sheetrock line, if that's your flavor).
Hello! I'm a beginner working on my first dry wall project and I'm honestly a bit scared lol. I had never heard of sheetrock 90 and I know I'm going to need it because I have many large gaps in my sheetrock and this product looks great at fixing it! I'm from the US and I was wondering if you know by any chance if it's also called sheetrock 90 here? Thank you so much!
It is. Stay away from the 5 or 20 minute until you’re comfortable. 45 gives you a lot of time to work with, 90 dries hard as a rock
Good information but if im covering the area with wallpaper after the filling the gap w sheetrock 90, do I still need to tape and apply the sheetrock compound? Thx
Thanks !
Good question, I suppose if the wallpaper will be covering up all the surface you wouldn't have to tape, now when you wallpaper over a surface that isn't painted, it might be difficult to remove it later on, if you think you will be removing later down the road you might want to finish the wall so removal will be easier, if you don't think you will be the kne to take it off then it will be the next person's problem haha
Hope this helps
Thanks for watching and for the question
Thanks so much for the information, and this wallpaper will not be removed once pasted as the area will have wall mounted storage units.
I learned a lot. Thank you for such a great video :)
You're welcome, I'm glad you found it helpful 😊
I did a ceiling patch but there is maybe a 3/16" or 1/4" gap. This gap is mostly open to my attic. I'm not sure if I should just lay down compound then tape then compound like I did on the wall, or I should prefill...my main concern is if I don't prefill it not doing a good enough job keeping attic heat out. But now it seems prefilling requires Sheetrock 90 instead of all-purpose joint compound? Let me know what you think. I was going to fill a syringe with compound and squirt it up in there at least 1/2" deep to equal the sheetrock.
Hi Joe, thanks for watching and for the comment and questions. Without seeing the area in question it is hard for me to say what is the best way to approach the issue. But personally I always like to use the sheetrock 90. If you are able to use it, thstvis what I would do. Would it be possible to take a photo of the area and post it in the comment section ?
@@TheCanadianHomePainter I can't. Too stupid...just spent 20 minutes trying to figure it out. My other question is should I scrape/sand away the existing ceiling finish around the joints so that it's flatter after I tape and mud?
@@robloxvids2233 you want the finish to be as flat as possible, before you prime and paint, if it isnt you will see it when you paint . What I like to do after the mudding and sanding is done, I take a bright light and shine it in different areas to give me an idea of spot that need more sanding. Hope this helps
@@TheCanadianHomePainter Yes, thanks for your responses sir!
@@robloxvids2233 you are welcome, let me know how it turns out and feel free to ask any other questions.
Thank you for your very helpful videos. Home Depot and Lowes have Durabond 90. Is that the correct product? I understand that the Easy Sand 90 would not be as strong.
Yes that will work great, thanks for watching and for the comment
@TheCanadianHomePainter all I have locally is the sheetrock easy sand 90 or the durabond 45. Is there a preference between these two for large gaps?
Great video! Thanks for the info. I needed it. 👍
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
I saw someone profiling his butt joints with the quick set, then coming back and taping later with mud. Is that what you do? Or do you tape with quick set to ?
Your scrape and spread is a thing of beauty
Thank you for the comment! I appreciate it 😊
After removing paneling I found where the previous owners cut 1 inch wide trenchcuts in the drywall to hide speaker wire before putting paneling over it. No I want to skim the drywall and paint it. Will this work for that? I can't get any furring strips behind it.
So it mixes and looks like joint compound but the material is different?
Yes, it has difference materials in it, I think a bit of cement as well, so it dries very hard like a rock, difficult to sand but the idea is that you won't require too much sanding
Great video!! Much appreciated.
Did you cut v grooves where the big gaps at the butt joints were? Why or why not?
Also, why paper tape rather than mesh tape over the big cracks?
Thanks for watching!
I can remember if I cut grooves or not, but with butt joints I weather out the Mudd alot so no to see the joint at all, I find that paper is much better then mesh, I know many drywallers who will say the opposite but I fi d that houses I work in that have the most cracks in drywall is 95% of the time with mesh tape. You can get it with paper too but much less likely I'm my opinion. I think paper is just alot stronger it does require you to put a bit more Mudd and really feather it out to make things loom right.
Hope this help
Thank you. What is your opinion on v grooves for butt joints that have pretty big gaps? I am a VERY first time DIY and I just bought a house where all the joints in the vaulted ceiling need to be repaired. (I was completely unaware at the time of purchase) anyway, any extra tips/advice would be MUCH appreciated ❤
@@caseyhamiter1289 yes I know that alot of drywallers will cut a v in the buttjoints , I don't usually, just make sure big gaps have the sheetrock 90
Vaulted ceilings are really great but usually many repairs over time, even if it's constructed well , you still need to make repairs from time to time,
I have many other videos you should take a look at, it will help you with a variety of things on your home.
Love the info. Is there a difference between sheetrock 90 and joint compound? Cant I just use the sheetrock 90 as a gap filler, then after it drys, use it again with the tape?
I would suggest using the sheetrock only for filling the gaps, the other premixed compounds are made for the taping. Thanks for the question
What about using a corner metal joint🤔
How do you fill in gaps like this in non drywall? as in like, cheap walling homes? Do you do this too or is there a different method?
I already filled large gaps with Multipurpose premixed joint compound. The gaps were 1/4 - 3/4", & there were several large holes (silver dollar sized) that I filled with the same compound. Now what do I do? I sure wish I'd seen this BEFORE I did this...
Just give it time, maybe run fans or even a dehumidifier, just don't tape until you think it's dry, it will just take alot longer
Honest truth, I've seen do called pros do a worse job hanging. A crooked house is hard to hang. But a professional had aught to cut the sheet ¼"-0 or cut a belly in a sheet if necessary
Yes that's true, this one was tough but I have seen worse too. After it was all taped and painted it turned out quite nice
Yep us pro finishers know how to make anything look good. I've done some crazy stuff that probably should have just been re hung. But who's got the money to pay for drywall twice. The finished product is what matters
Adding a bedroom to my house. What do you use to fill in the gaps between the new drywall and existing drywall?
I would use sheetrock 90 for the gaps
I love the music!
Yeah , I thought it fit with the video lol thanks for watching
Can you recommend a similar product for small repairs?
Please what is quick dry 90? We dont have this in my country. Is it the same stuff used for car body filling? Thanks.
No it is a cgc product that is meant just for drywall or plaster
Great video!! I appreciate the timelapse🔥 Quick question, since Durabond 90/45 is hard to sand, what do you do when pre-filling yhe large gaps and screws after it dries? Do you just make sure to apply enough to fill gaps and not enough to need sending?
Hope you are still active on your channel looking forward to more of your content.
Hi! Thanks for the comment !!
Yes I'm still active , I try to put out atleast 1 video a week. Not always the case but I do my best.
As for the question about sanding, I smooth it out with my 6 " drywall knife and then everything gets coated with all purpose after, the corners and flat joints get taped and all screws get another couple coats and then at the end I do a final sanding.
Just try to get it as smooth as possible either your drywall knife. If you need to sand, I use a fairly gritty sanding block which helps the process
@@TheCanadianHomePainter thank you very much for such a thorough response brother. Truly appreciate. Looking forward to your future content. Subscribed!
@@esteylonmartinez6142 you're very welcome !
@@TheCanadianHomePainter Thanks for responding to Esteylon's comment - because I had the same question! I'll be sure to keep this layer pretty shallow (with my knife) so I don't have to sand it - and can just top coat with an easier sanding layer later! Cheers!
@@michaelbailey9643 I'm glad you found it helpful! Good luck with your project
Thanks for the video. What is the main diff in result between the 90 and the 45? Thanks also for letting me know what would happen if I didn't do this step. Also, can I just use the 90 and skip using the regular low dust USG 3.5 gal bucket of mud that I also purchased?Thanks.
Hi sorry for the late reply, the difference is mainly the set up time between the 2, 90 starts to set up in about 90 mins where 45 is about 45 minutes. I like having a bit more time to use it .90 is only for the gaps
@@TheCanadianHomePainter 90 is only for the gaps. What do you use for the regular taping/mudding? Is it just called "all purpose joint compound"?
@@Erilis000 yes that's right
I have a small patch about 18 x 14 in with one side having a 1/4 in gap between butt joints. Do I really have to buy 18 pounds of setting compound to do this crack? Small quantities scarce, sold out, unavailable now. Trip to store, most of it leftover, will never be used again. It is hard not to just give all purpose compound a try instead.
A quarter inch isn't terrible, it's too.bad they are out of the small bags, all I would say is if yiu do use regular compound , make sure you give it enough time to dry, there can't be any moisture left before you prime and paint or it will bubble and look terrible
Can I use the Sheetrock 90 on the ceiling? The 5/8 fire board is pretty heavy for me and I had to cut it down a bit to work with it. Short story is that I have pieces of ceiling that are not flush butt joints. I’m contemplating installing 1/4” over the 5/8, as I can certainly manage the lighter board on my own. As an amateur with mudding, I’m thinking the fewer seams I have s equates to fewer eye sores. That said, the Sheetrock 90 may help correct my learning curve. Thx in advance, Chris
Yes you're right chris fewer joints the better, that 5/8" stuff is very heavy and not easy to work with. I use sheetrock 90 on ceiling and walls wherever the gaps and cracks need it. Going over it again with 1/4 " seems like alot of work but then again it might cut down on how much mudd you need to do. Only use the sheetrock for large gaps dont use it for anything else. Unless you use metal beaded corners that get nailed on then a first coat of sheetrock isnt a bad idea
I too have gaps, but that's because it was poorly framed lol
What is the difference between sheet rock 90 compared to regular joint compound?
The reg compound all purpose is generally what is used for applying the tape to the joints, the 90 is a bit different, it sets up hard in about 90 mins and so you wouldnt want to use it for tapering and it gets very hard. Like a rock lol so it is great for pre filling gaps that you might have in the drywall. All purpose would take weeks to properly cure and you would have major problems. Hope this answer helps you out.
Thanks for watching and for the comment
Just did my garage myself and it’s not the best but it’s honest work . I have multiple gaps and plan on doing this. I just would really appreciate some guidance on making sure this would all be good in the long run. As far as the tape and mud , what are some key points to look out for ?
Hi! Thanks for watching and for the comment, I do have some other drywall videos on my channel that you might find helpful, I always use paper tape for my projects and here where I live CGC compound is the preferred product, personally I pay a bit extra for what is called dust control all purpose, when it is sanded it doesn't go airborne the dust drops to the ground.
For sanding I like using the sanding blocks and the pole sander blocks aswell. Good luck with the project.
The most important step is filling the gaps correctly, so you are on the right path 👍🏻
Sick knife work!
Thanks !
I was impressed as well!
im hoping its not way to late to ask this, but im in a pinch and i dont have any 90 or 20 can i use some "Premix" in its place,? i dont have many more options so its either that or cut a little more back and put in a piece of backing board. Penny for your thoughts!
I wouldn't use premix , depending on how big the gaps are, the premix will take a long time to be dry and have no moisture left in it. If it isn't dry and you tape over it that moisture will push through the tape and that's why the tape will bubble and break. Filling the gap with drywall board is a better idea if you can't get sheetrock 90. Hope this helps
@@TheCanadianHomePainter thank you SO MUCH for your reply! I'm sure your probably a busy guy so I know it ain't easy to respond back to every message you receive.
@@wesleywilson7328 you're welcome
Can sheetrock 45 be used for filling gaps and as a taping compound?
Hi, thanks for the question. I only use sheetrock 90 for prefill gaps. I use CGC compounds for the taping portion. I only use the paper tape , I never use the mess tape. I find the paper tape to be the best
Is it okay to prefill ALL the seams between the boards and inside corners with sheetrock90?
Like, prior to taping?
Hi , yes that's what I do
Can you please tell us the name of the product
The one I bought says all purpose Sheetrock compound, is not the same thing?
He in Canada it is called sheetrock 90, it comes in a powder form and you mix it with water. It drys very hard very fast , about 90 minutes
Thanks for this video. Do you happen to know what a U.S. equivalent of CGC Sheetrock 90 would be? Thanks
I called cgc and they said the usg equivalent is Easy Sand 90. Will give it a shot. Best wishes
Hey, sorry for late reply, I was going to suggest going to a home depot and asking if they carry it. But now that you mention easy sand 90, I believe another American once told me that. Hope it works well for you, thanks for watching and for the comment
@@TheCanadianHomePainter thx for responding, I'll report back. P.S. with your voice in this vid, you should make an ASMR video. Haha.
@@cb7963 haha yeah I've had people tell me that before, I wasn't even aware of asmr until some other were commenting on videos that I did voice overs on.
Thanks for the compliment
And yes keep me posted on how things turn out with the easy sand
@@TheCanadianHomePainter A followup if you don't mind. Other videos talk about pairing hot mud with mesh tape. Do you do this in certain instances? For example, if the gaps had been wider or deeper in this video? Thanks in advance.
I know this video was posted a couple years ago. But you mentioned it hardens in 90 minutes. Is this an all pourpose drywall mud? You said 90 but my brand name memory is shiite!
Hey, yeah it's been a couple years since I did this. Always surprised with how many views some videos can get. To answer your question, for filling large gaps like this I use sheetrock 90, it is in powder form and you mix it with water, it starts to harden up in about 90 mins. It is rock hard in probably 2 hours give or take
It is not all purpose compound. I only used it for gaps and screws and big repairs
What is the name of the compound
Sheetrock 90 made by cgc
I tried to find the sheetrock 90 "cgc product" at Lowe's and online, but can only find the sheetrock 90 "usg product". Can you please tell me what the difference is between these two products and if it even matters if one is cgc, and the other is usg. They both look like they are made by the same manufacturer, and they are both sheetrock 90, but does it even matter if the product is either cgc, or usg? if you see this question and it seems like a stupid one, please forgive me, I am a single woman who is doing my own home reno. Thanks.
Hi there, not a dumb question, I actually had to do some searching to find what the difference is and as far as I can tell, USG is the parent company so the product should be the same. And maybe if you're in the states it's usg and canada and other countries are cgc. Anyways hope that helps 👍🏻
@@TheCanadianHomePainter Thank you so much for your very helpful response, it's much appreciated.
@@Serenity-sg4jf you're very welcome
Someone did a crappy job in the corners under my cabinets, would this be ok to use? Also After this dries is it ok to paint over?
The sheet rock 90 is just to give you a good strong backing, after it is dry that's when I apply the tape and use all purpose compound, the 90 isn't for the finishing just for filling the gaps
can i use this on plywood?
I don't see why you couldn't, the stuff dries rock hard, maybe ask for a second opinion at the store where you buy it, but I think it would work
Hi, thank a lot for these so useful video. I have a somebody helping to rebuild my flooded basement. He is very kind but not very handy with gypsum board fixings. The walls were cut at 25 inches from the floor (should be 24 inches). Also, the house is from 1975 so it seems to be a nasty amount of old paint layers and once the new gypsum board panel is installed there is quite a difference between the old and the new in the junctions. My helper cut the gypsum board not very tight to the dimensions to be repaired I have lots of gaps like the ones in the video everywhere. All the exterior walls are to be done, I'm worry there will be another series of gaps. If I understand well, what I need to do to fix the gaps and make all my joints is: 1) fill the gaps with sheetrock 90 taking care of don't let excesses around; 2) once dry, apply paper tape as usual. It is, apply mud, then tape, then flatten the tape against mud, let it dry and apply mud again and again as needed until arrive to a nice surface. Is it exact? Do I need to use mesh tape or because I filled the gaps with sheetrock 90, should I use only paper tape and All Purpose ready mixed drywall compound then?. Why people say you can't use mesh tape with All purpose drywall compound? I thought you needed to use mesh tape to keep the compound from cracking and falling apart from the big gaps. Thanks you very much.
It sounds like you got it. Follow those steps and your good. Mesh tape is a product I personally never use and have only seen issues at homes where mesh was used. Stick with the paper and you will be happy with the durability of the final product
@@TheCanadianHomePainter Thanks very much
@@recj949 you're welcome
Can you use 20 minutes sand or does it have to be 90 minutes. Thanks
Yes 20 min is fine, I just prefer having more time to work with the compound
Can the Sheetrock 90 be used if the walls have already been painted? Whoever lived here before never bothered filling in the gaps, they just went ahead and painted the walls leaving all 4 corners of the room with giant gaps.
Yes from the sounds of it , you should be fine to use the 90
whitch knife is that?blu steal or ss.and brand.thanks for ansver.
Not sure which one that is, I use all types of knives but yes blue steel is probably my favorite!
@@TheCanadianHomePainter thanks
Hi I live in the uk and currently have this problem . We have a ready mixed product called poly filler .. is this the same thing ?
Hi, no poly fill will not work to fill these types of cracks, if you show them a photo at the building store, they should know what product is best used there. You need it to dry quick and very hard to be a good base. Hope this answers your question, let me know how it works out for you
Should I use 90 minute compound for corner bead?
I'm sure it would be fine, I usually just use the all purpose pre mixed compound and I have never had any issues, I use the paper tapes corners
There are a few different options made by sheetrock with the 90 label, durabond and easy sand 90. Which do you use?
I use the durabond
What would be regular compound?? Can sheetrock 45 be used to fill those gaps?
all purpose compound shouldn't be used , 90, 45, or 20 can all be use for gaps
@@TheCanadianHomePainter ok. Thanks for the reply bro
Is Sheetrock 90 equivalent to Durabond 90?
I believe sheetrock 90 is easier to sand
Would it be fair to say that whether we use 90, 45, 20, or 5 drywall compound the primary goal is to fill wide gaps first before taping or does the 90/45/20/5 mud have different physical properties other than cure time? I have all of them at my house and typically swap based on how long I need to apply my batch. Most of my jobs are small
The biggest between those three is dry time, the 90 gives me the most time to work with, 45 cuts that in half, typically sheetrock 90 will be set up and fairly hard in 90 mins, 45 minutes, 20 minutes
What if I have a gap like that one but with no support behind it
Like it’s open behind it Can I still apply the 90
That can be a bit harder to do, because if the compound isn't thick enough, or to wet it will not stick, but if the consistency is like smooth peanut butter lol ( the only thing I can think of as an example)
Then it should work and it will make taping it better to have a more solid corner to apply the paper tape hope this explanation helps 👍🏻
You never specified...easy sand 90? Durabond? There are a few sheeteock 90 products
The stuff I use comes in a bag that says cgc sheetrock 90 drywall compound on it . So it doesn't say easy sand or durabond on it
@@TheCanadianHomePainter gotcha
what would be the largest gap you could have before having to do this?
Good question, I do this for most gaps that are over 1/4 inch.
Can this be done with Sheetrock 45?
Yes it can, I prefer the 90 because it gives me a bit more time to work with. 45 will start to get harder quicker, but yes you can there is even a 20 which dries even faster
@@TheCanadianHomePainter wow, that was quick! I bought a bag of 45 recently and thought I might have to go back and get another bag of 90. It's good to know that either can be used to acquire the same results. Time to patch up my amature and multi-gapped sheetrock project lol! Thanks again for the info. I'm glad to know that all is not lost.
Nothing wrong at all with even much wider gaps. Internal corners should always be prefilled with setting compound.
What compound do you use? Whats the name of it?
I like using sheetrock 90