How to Caulk BIG GAPS!!!!
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
- Big gaps happen!!! and when you don't have a stone stretcher YOU CAULK IT!!! But what is the best way?
Instagram @vancouver_carpenter
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Here is the backer rod:
1/4" amzn.to/3d128BE
3/8" amzn.to/2VR1kto
1/2" amzn.to/2yTdGIf
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Others might have said this but it’s worth repeating. The advice you give at the end to “Take a step back, take a breath, come back the next day” is great advice. For everything in life! We tend to get caught in the moment and fret over minor things. Your advice is very true! Great video.
I've caulked 1000's of feet of trim in apartments I've fixed up and rented out over the years and have never heard of backer rod. Thanks for the tip.
its construction its commonly used to fill gaps in the wall and door frame.
Same here! This is a great informative video! Thank you for posting!
I know, it's awesome! My life has been changed (in one small but lovely way)!
In the carpentry industry, we call "backer rod" paper towel, or pretty much whatever will fit in the gap. Don't waste your money on "backer rod." It's a marketing scam. Anything will work.
You're just making the gap smaller so your caulk isn't heavy enough to pull itself out. Caulk isn't meant to fill gaps. It's a surface applicant.
@@BruceOfWaynes baker rod is meant to give the caulk an hourglass effect it’s import for expansion and contraction. He should have used a tooling knife and made the outside concave to match the inside also you don’t want 3 point adhesion or the caulk will crack and pull away. Last no backer-rod means you will waste a ton of material. Also if your gonna use backer-rod you want the depth to be half of what the width was. Then there is open cell and closed cell. If you don’t want air bubbles popping up don’t poke holes in you baker-rod while installing the open cell I don’t think that would be a problem.
I can not thank you enough for posting this video. We had trim at the tops of all our walls. When we removed the trim, that I hated, there was this gap… everywhere! In all the rooms! I have textured ceilings so I couldn’t use the tape! I came a crossed your video and tried it, with one exception, after I used the caulking and let it dry completely I used joint compound and then sanded it flat. Wow!!!! I have done my entire house and repainted all the ceilings and the walls. It is perfect! Can not even see traces that it was once there! It didn’t mess up the textured ceiling at all! You are wonderful! Thank you so much! God bless you and your family! ❤
This is coming from a qualified mechanic, restorer, renovator full time Handyman. Your closing comment is "spot on". Love your vids. Thank you and have a great day.
Someone once said, done is better than perfect. I used to stress over the little things that no one else noticed. Not any more.
Really like the advice you give at the end - and at the beginning with the backer rod. I never heard of them before and it is exactly what I need for a large gap. Thank you.
I'm a huge fan. Whoever is lucky enough to hire you will definitely get what they paid for unlike so many so-called professionals who just want to get in and get out, get paid for a substandard job because the home owners don't know what short cuts they did until they're long gone.
J
Just found this guy's videos today and it's one of the few things I can say was great about 2020.
I caulk the cracks and instead of taping the walls around it, i spray them lightly with soapy water and then smooth the caulk over, nothing ever sticks to surfaces with soapy water. Great job man.
Hey finally a guy that is demonstrating a fix that said step back and have a break from the job because it is not working out for, you are a spot on, great to hear
That tip at the end really resonated with me, I recently did drywall in part of my basement (crawlspace actually) and I was not happy with how it went, lot of big gaps or areas it did not line up right etc. But after it was all done I realized it was not THAT bad, and all that will be fixable when I plaster anyway. Sometimes you need to give your work some tolerance to imperfection and I often forget this myself and try to make stuff too perfect.
I pass some backer rod in Lowes today while looking for weather strips. I had no idea what it was use for and this video just explained that.. Thanks for the info.
Lowe's should keep it in the caulk isle. I believe they'd sell more of it
@@SeemsFutileNow most definitely
It's used for many things. We use it when installing windows, leaving a gap against the wall/sill before rodding it and caulking. Thankfully it doesn't have be pretty like in this video!
@@SeemsFutileNow I bought some today and it was where you get door knobs and such.
It’s expensive, but in this kind of application I prefer to use a urethane caulk overtop of the backer rod. It has up to like 600% elasticity and will fill serious gaps, and is still paintable. Great content for a DIY’er or someone just learning!
Used backer rod for years. This is the first video I've seen on about it. 230 is a great chalk. We use tube after tube of it. If you work in old houses you better have backer rod handy.
This guy's the best. Somebody else on youtube was suggesting toilet paper and I promptly searched again and found you. You've provided solutions for a few projects now. Really thanking you for your knowledge shared!
Your last tip on standing back, has to be the best advice " I really need to take that advice we will see! Thanks
I am really impressed by the knowledge that you have . Thank you very much. Your children are lucky to have you.
BRAVO ! I just mounted drywall in my kitchen ceiling, to cover the recess that housed 3 x 48" fluorescent tubes. The original recess wasn't even close to square, so I have gaps ranging from 0" to 5/8". This video saved countless hours with a kinked neck & blobs of joint compound on my face.
Excellent! I'm still a beginner with the gun, and this has inspired me to keep learning. Not a single straight wall in my house.
Congratulations!! This IS the correct way to install sealant(caulk) I have installed sealants professionally for over 40 years and I see so many stupid methods of caulking. The one thing I would suggest you should do is tool it both directions to improve adhesion.Backer rod IS essential Not just for aesthetics but it also improves the performance of the caulk significantly. Thanks for getting the installation right. Just in case you don’t know ,the general rule is 1/2 as deep as the joint is wide. With a maximum depth of 3/8” to 1/2”
There is an 1 inch gap between the AC unit and the wall that I am trying to seal. Does this mean I'd need 2 inches of foam to fill the gap?
@@taoliu3949 Foam? Do you mean backer rod? If the gap is consistent 1” ( not much bigger) you can use 1 1/4”
Reminds me of a quote from Norm Abrams, This Old House:
Caulking is not a suitable substitute for quality craftsmanship.
I live in a real world held together with caulking and duct tape.
Caulk and paint is what a carpenter ain't, on many jobs
My motto is, "I'll do my best, and caulk the rest."
@@fondupot lol
Norm was a craftsman.....a rare man today.....
Sometimes you go to fix someone else's work you have no choice because of the cost
I didn't know about backer rod. I'm relieved to have found this video. You made my project so much simpler for me. 👍
The backer rod was definitely a missing element in a corner caulking project I botched up! Enjoyed the video and appreciate the info. Keep up the good work!
Last bit of advice regarding taking a step back and looking at it the next day is great advice.
Youre actually suppose to leave backer rod for 24 hours before you cover it with caulking..
(I worked for the biggest glazing company here in B.C. used backer rod everyday)
Reason being.. Its foam. So when you squish it in. Its going to expand back out as it decompresses..
If you squish it in and cover it right away. As the foam decompresses. It pushes the caulking out with it..
Which is why he said "we'll see what it does"
Then said it coved out just a little bit..
Cause he covered it right away and didnt let the foam expand back out..
He got lucky cause its small rod.
Bigger the rod. The more it will cove out if you dont let it expand back out first and cover it with caulking right away..
Very good advice and information, thank you.
I’m glad I read your comment before I started to fix a repair today..great info.
You are not supposed to squish the backer rod.
It doesn't matter if the latex caulking is flexible. I've done a lot of caulking jobs.
He’s a carpenter! From Vancouver!.. not a painter!..
The best tip was at the end. Take a break from what you are doing. Leave it for a day (if you can) and come back. Best advice! I have learned that the hard way....through frustration..LOL!!!
Nice video thank you!!!
Thank you very much. I'm glad there are you tubers doing this, especially, for girls that have no idea how to be more "hands on" projects.
I love your channel! It's especially helpful when you make a small mistake and then show us how to recover.
Yes!! I love that also. So helpful
Another excellent video - Vancouver Carpenter nails it again & NO NAILS REQUIRED!
Good tips, backer rods, never knew they exist, could be a savior, specially for a DIY homeowner. Thanks
This literally couldn't have come at a better time, thanks champ!
Agreed!
I do a lot of caulking and never used a putty knife! Looks awesome and I'll be using that in the future. Thanks!
You are incredible, I am just moving to my new house and this channel is a gold mine!
Cool Vid. The big gaps, I normally use expanding foam. Finish it of with some skimming.
Here is another tip for anyone who struggle with damp on walls (interior walls).....I use Road Marking Paint and covers easy with any good quality PVA.
Chris
🇿🇦
After watching this I tried using a knife to smooth caulk and was thoroughly impressed. Thanks for one more tool in the arsenal
Really descriptive, step by step video. I appreciate the tips and now feel more confident to attempt this myself. I am a perfectionist and your advice at the end really hit home for me. Thank you so much!
Thank you so much for this one. Our house is full of those because some DIY wanna be had the philosophy of 'it holds, it's good enough'. There are gaps every freaking where they went. Thank goodness the original house itself wasn't the same lol
Great vid. But i think it is also worth mentioning that the back-stop is not just there to even out shrinkage. But for strengt of the joint. It is not a coincidence that it is round, this is because the optimal profile of the caulk is thinner in the midle, so the midle remains flexible (especially when connecting different types of material) but the sides has plenty caulk to make a strong bond.
At least that is what the manufacturer claims :-)
nice mix of perfectionism and relaxed approach - thanks for the video, Im about to caulk a large gap in my bathroom
I got a wall like this in my bathroom I've wanted to fix, but couldn't find a video on your channel.. now a week later you got a vid up!😀
Backer rod is the best. I've even used it to stop air leaks on a warped door as a temporary measure. We keep three sizes here at home just in case.
The first time I used masking tape with caulk was at the outside bottom of a bathtub at the floor. I let it dry before removing the tape and it didn’t come up cleanly leaving the perfect edge I wanted, it kind of tore the caulk at the edge of the tape. I still use tape with caulk sometimes but since that experience, I never let the caulk set before removing the tape no matter what I’m doing.
An easy tip. Caulk in such a way that the edge of the tape is visible trough the caulk but still covering the tape. Then paint after its dry, peel right away or after the paint is dry. Been doing this for 15 year so I kinda know it works :)
I am with you, caulk & remove the tape ASP, but use a wet finger to smooth, guess with a knife one leaves very little over lap.
Love the video. I just had one of those "head deep" moments the other day. I had to leave it for two days and went back to look at it. I never even noticed it when I came back to it.
This is by far the best KB on caulking large gaps on the whole of UA-cam. Everything else out there is fairly sloppy
Backer rod!! That's what I've been missing. Thanks for the tip.
Great info for someone who just installed cabinets and ended up with a gap that goes from 1/8” to 3/4” in 9’. Yes, I suck at installing cabinets...
story of my life there...I have done this more times than I can count. thanks for your videos, stay safe.
its still botch. At least shim and mud a gap big like that. Culk that big will get nasty especially on tiles that get wet cleaned.
Nicely done. Because I so enjoyed your attention to detail, and as someone with a background in Building Science, I offer you this: a critical detail of backer rod is that it provides the ideal profile for your silicon to perform as intended. The knife trick is great for aesthetics, but with respect to the bead's cross section profile, it may leave your silicon weak and susceptible to failure. :(
I myself struggle between aesthetics and performance and it's always a bit of a give-take balancing act...never a dull moment! ;)
There is the indented application of building science and then the reality of remodel. Often very different. This is very practical technique and encountered countless times in remodeling. As he indicating, having a range of rod diameters is key.
That's really interesting to know that a knife can weaken the caulk. In areas where I don't care about appearance and would actually prefer stronger more durable caulking it's great to know my avoiding the use of a knife is actually helpful.
Who the hell dislikes a Vancouver Carpenter video!?
The Montreal Carpenters!
Scaldinghotcoffee good one
Scaldinghotcoffee 😂😂😂
@@scaldinghotcoffee3206 😂😂😂🙌
Mark Messier!
Your attention to detail is fantastic!!
That was great advice. Step back and take a breath. I've wasted too much time fussing over the tiny imperfections! So thanks!
Great hint about perfectionism. At these moments I usually think that it is too much of perfection and no one really notice if I made a mistake other than myself.
You're really good at this lark
I just did this today! I had too small a gap at the bottom of a bathroom backsplash for a trim piece but still over 1/4”. I put in some vinyl foam weatherseal, which had the advantage of having a sticky side, and stayed in the middle of the gap where I put it, so I was able to caulk all around. And now I’m stepping back, because I can see every little bump and wrinkle.
Great help. Thanks very much. Thanks for making the effort to talk in millimeters.
The backer rod (or gasket) also ensures that the flexibility of the filler material (caulk/silicone) stays flexible as it only adheres to the two opposite surfaces. If it was adhered to the bottom of the groove as well the filler material would lose flexibility and possibly crack if the building interior surfaces move relative to each other.
I think that it came out quite likable. Back in my day, I knew a painter that would follow up his caulk jobs with a soft damp paintbrush to smooth it out. Lol, when I came upon your video, it reminded me of a carpenter I once knew; his motto was, "If I can walk across it, I can caulk it!." God bless.
My dad was a painter. I've done a lot of caulking and prep. We never taped anything off. That takes too long on full house jobs. What I learned to do is similar to the paintbrush technique. We'd go back with a damp rag (T-shirt white rag) and use your finger covered in the rag to wipe excess off without wiping it all away. Wait till it dries and paint
Good job and good idea. I'm a Cabinetmaker and cleaning goop left by edge banders, touching up chips in shelves with Seamfill 901 white and a good caulking job makes all the difference. The Devil is in the details.
Dude, your videos have saved me more than once. Very thorough, great subjects... from a thankful homeowner.
I only see knowledgeable people like this on UA-cam. I've had a tub in my apartment basically unsealed for over a year because the initial job was total trash. So they come in to "seal" it but they just tried to caulk a 3/4 inch gap with no backer rod, not to mention they just caked it on like icing. Of course my first shower, all the caulk just pulled into the gap lol. Incompetent. I was hoping they would actually properly seal the tub but looks like I'll have to do it myself.
Backer rod makes a lot of sense for large gaps. One more tip when using water based fillers is to give the area a light mist water spray after filling the gap. that way the filler will not stick to anything other then the gap and you generally only need one pass with no lift offs.
Another informative video by the great Mr. Vancouver Carpenter.
Dang. In the middle of renovating both bathrooms ourselves with little to no framing, drywall/mud, electrical, or tile experience.
That tip to take a step back and see how big of a deal it really is, is so true.
Using your putty knife to get a clean tape tear is so simple and so genius I can't believe I'm just now seeing it for the first time.
Really? Holy crap
Wes - Agreed! Sometimes we learn something that seems so logical, yet never occurred to us. Happy taping!
Thanks nice tip, you can also use backer rod for control joints in concrete and caulk
This really helped me a lot! I have some ugly gaps around some doors I need to fix. I am glad to learn about the backing material! Geez....that's really going to help me! Thanks!
You're a great teacher and I commend you. Question: when a situation like this arises couldn't one get creative and perhaps hide the gaps with wood trim? Quarter round or crown molding? Even cove molding? I have both an old and powerful Rockwell router as well as a vintage Craftsman table saw with an array of molding cutters, Essentially make a one of a kind trim piece and perhaps more existing pieces to compliment the opposing walls. Blend it all in if you will. I inherited the table saw as well as the router from my dad. I enjoy using his tools he had given to me a long time ago. All metal, no plastic and expensive irreplaceable carbide cutters/bits.
Sure can
The pep talk at the end is there because caulking will NEVER be perfect, it just never is lol. Caulking is a perfectionist's nightmare, the more you touch it the worse it gets!
I've learned a few tricks for caulk over the years and the main one is if you can't use a mud knife, caulk tool, or whatever dab your finger in very soapy water so it won't stick to your finger. Also use backer rod as much as possible.
Perfect last little bit of advice! Take a step back....:) Fresh look
I thought you were going to teach me how to kickflip large gaps but this is also good and more relevant to my needs right now.
Had a sizable project and got some helpful tips. Thank you. Project turned out pretty good for a rank amateur.
Your channel has been so helpful. In our home the finishing details I am more attentive to. Your explanations give me confidence to make it look professional. I now caulk trim and baseboards. And just finished applying our backsplash tiles and grout. I pass on your tips to my daughters. And they help me. Thanks so very much.
New Vancouver Carpenter video yes !!!
Screw up bits of newspaper and pack into the gap, paint it liberally with some lightly watered down epoxy glue (you dont want it running down your walls but you want it to soak into the paper) leave to dry. Wipe down your wall after gluing. Once dry then caulk it. Lasts for years.
A little of caulk and a little of paint makes the carpenter something that he ain’t... 💪
I've never seen anyone go over the caulk with a putty knife! I've always done it with my finger. Great idea though, as it reduces the dipping and it's cleaner. I wonder if a silicone spatula would work also...
You're one of the best! I like the way you go into detail about how you do what you do...keep up the good work buddy!!!
Before striking the caulking I always spray it with a mixture of water and waster and detergent. This stops the caulking from sticking to the surfaces.
i will need backer rod! Thanks for the info. I worked with a contractor that stuffed stiff rope in the crack, but im sure that cost a fortune for all i need!
kool i learn something new everyday and today was backer rod
Backing Rod comes in 3 sizes here and also it's not in the caulk isle of Lowe's but in the weather stripping section
Good job. Sometimes I notice that shrinkage occurs a month or two after I caulk which clients notice. One day I will be able to find caulk or silicone in a tube that never shrinks. Thanks again.
I've never seen the backer used. Always learn something from you.👍👍
For perfect chaulk lines I use this handy thing,, works GREAT for me.
Homax 5850-10-06 Perfect Bead Caulk Finisher. It's always in my too bucket!! You do GREAT work, great perspective on your work 👍👍
Hey the last couple of minutes really spoke to me haha. I've been remodeling my basement living room since DEC 2019 over 500 square ft. Complete from the ground up, I've been working mainly on weekends, but sometimes after work as well. I about have it framed up completely at this point, and I've been trying to get stuff pretty well perfect. but, the Sheetrock will hide some things ;) :)
I appreciate all your advice. Never used backer rod before .... 👏🏽🇨🇦👏🏽
You do pretty darn good work. And your videos are pretty darn good. And your advice is pretty darn good. I'm pretty darn happy with your videos. Thanks.
in a pinch, I had some excess 1/2 " copper pipe insulation (use pex now), cut that in strips and inserted in gap. Big gaps I cut up pink pool foam bands, ensure walls are tight above and below gap, and caulk away. So far so good, But backer rods are cheap (say, $10-20/100 lf, but I'm even cheaper). LOL
Very cool mate never seen it done that way before...
AC foam cut with scissors would do the same job...
0:18 That micro expression of the anticipatory cringe regarding the topic, GOLD!
I thought the same thing 😂
I used masking tape for years when applying caulk & silicone until I saw an instructional video using just silicone forming/caulking tools. No tape, no fingers, no detergent used. I was dubious at first but tried it during a renovation. It was a revelation leaving a much better finish and taking a LOT less time. There were also no problems with masking tape leaving a raised edge. You should try it and see how it compares?
Before caulk tooling tools became available, I always used a cut piece of paper towel for tooling. If I was tooling latex caulk I wet the paper towel tool with water. If I was tooling an oil based caulk, wetted the paper towel with mineral spirit. The trick was to keep a wet working edge. Worked for me.
C Adama interesting, I used to use old plastic style credit cards and snipped off the corners. That was before the silicone caulking tools came out. I use 99% isopropyl as my cleaner since it flashes off quickly. Almost want to try the paper towel method ....feel like I missed out
@Terminology! I use something like this www.tradetiler.com/cramer-fugi-7-peice-pofessional-silicone-tool-set.html but there are heaps of different on ebay etc. This kit includes an attachment which lets you apply to tiles without getting a dip where the tiles join.
Oh man really glad I ran into this one.
Great tip using your knife to line and cut the tape to the perfect length. Thank you.
I just needed this! This is the case in our bathroom ceiling, and finally know how to get rid of those gaps- I asked a painter before, and he didn't know what would be the best resolution...YAY! I also needed your advice to be not so harsh on my work (I am doing ALL the walls reno in our home, and I was doing over and over and over some parts, because i wasn't happy with the result...but from a real distance it looks waaay better than before- so I guess I'm not that bad :D Thank you! (sorry for my english)
English is fine bud
Thank you for posting, finishing a new tiled shower and have the same issue in my home
And this should help with drafts as well? My house is so cold! 🥶 I have a door to an addition that was built (horribly) to the back of the house and air is coming through the door. Weather stripping not helping very well. Brrrr!!! Like 45 degrees in my laundry room!
Hello, thanks for this video. I was looking for a method to fill the gap behind my wardrobe and the wall without cutting off my baseboard coz it was glued rather than nailed. Gonna try your method! Thanks a lot!
Great tip with that rod so you don't need such a big caulk
Great guidance in the most chill manner! Much appreciated, sir.
Great video- awesome camera work!
Thank you!!
I've never heard of backer rod! Thankyou so much for that tip! On to amazon to order right now
Thank you so much! I was looking for this filler stuff but had no idea what it was called. Thanks!