I am a first-time homeowner on a DIY budget. I’ve been avoiding a messy bathroom wall repair for over a year now because it felt too far above my skill level. I am learning so much from your videos that I finally feel confident enough to start working on it. Bought my materials and made a plan of action, so here goes! Thank you for sharing these tutorials!
@@kennya5165I need advice. I am looking to install blinds but the window frame depth is small. I will have to do outside mounts. Should I install on the window frame / architrave or above the entire window and frame. I do not want to mess up the frame with holes or dry wall with holes especially after a few years they start to get loose.
For some reason the owner of the company I work for thinks I know what I'm doing. (???) He asked me to do some drywall repairs in his home while they were vacationing. I got a text from his wife yesterday thanking me for the great work done in their house. I was a good carpenter but I owe 90% of my drywall skills to you Ben. I'm dead serious the content you put out really helps guys like me out. THANKS man, take care. 👍👍
Ditto. I just replaced a sliding patio door that due to some modifications in fit left damaged drywall. I didn’t hesitate to tell the contractor that I would do the interior finish work. I applied what I learned from Vancouver Carpenter and my drywall work was excellent - very slow, but excellent results. Thanks Ben
I loved the fact that you went straight to the point and not asking people to leave a like a subscribe at the beginning of the video like a lot of UA-cam channels. Thank you for that.
I mainly do electrical work for a contractor and create an extreme amount of holes everywhere I go. I didn’t care much because drywall and mud guys fix everything. But then I started getting independent work and it was real costly to hire guys to patch all the holes I make. Your videos helped me a lot, it gave me confidence and with your tips and many hours of practice I now do my own drywall repair and taping in my side jobs. Recently I’ve expanded and started doing other types of work. I just finished a basement and the only thing I sub contracted out was the plumbing.
For a someone who is absolutely clueless about joint compound and adding water, who also has only a few holes to cover up; this is perfect for me. Thank you!!
Over the years of doing renovations, I found that a short piece of 3/8” dowel with the end rounded over into almost a half-dome is my little helper for this sort of thing. I scrape off the loose bits as shown here, then tap the rounded end of the dowel into each hole to create a good deep dimple. Then follow the rest of the steps as shown. This way I know the loose torn bits are nowhere near the surface and can’t mess up the skim coat.
This is pretty much what I have done in the past. As many others have noted the key to a small job like this is wearing the right socks. I have a pair like yours and find they are THE BEST for those smal taping jobs. Thanks for showing me that I have the right style for those small jobs.
I started using Bondo to fill the big holes. I don't make it flush. I just want the Bondo to act as a backstop for the holes. When it dries, I then go over the holes again with spackle, smothing everything flush. When it dries I sand everything a little and then paint primer over everything before painting with the wall color. What I like about the Bondo is that it dries rock hard and will not move. When I would just fill the holes with mud, you could push the repair in with your finger and it would go right through.
Just after putting a couple of big drill holes in the wall for large handbag hooks to go in, my daughter changed her mind….aggh! So I hopped on UA-cam to find a how-to video to repair & your video popped up with the perfect solution so thank you. I also love that I’m a Vancouver Canuck living in Sydney Australia, watching a Vancouver carpenter show me my solution. Amazing!
I can't find your video I watched before I began, so I thought I'd comment here. I repaired a section where a towel rack had been hung at least three times. There were anchor holes everywhere. I cut out 3" diameter circles in the drywall to make sure I'd get all the little holes and installed plywood backup pieces. Then I inserted 3" drywall circles and then mudded everything. I was worried after the first mud coat because I could see the outline of the patch, but by the third sanded coat it looked like a pro had done it. I ain't no pro! I'm a novice. Your videos are super! Thanks for the tips and lessons!
On small projects like this you can use a damp spongue (a kitchen spongue is perfect) to smooth out the mud instead of sandpaper. There's less clean up because it doesn't leave any sanding dust on the wall, baseboard or floor.
I'm very new to this, I worked for a guy doing drywall back in 2016 for a good solid 2 months and he was patient with me and taught me from the ground up. But I needed some extra cash recently and took on a small drywall repair job and I'm finding out that I have to just wing everything. I had to fix some drywall anchor holes in the bathroom, I originally tried scraping it like you but some of that drywall paper was fuzzing up and it was driving me crazy, so, I grabbed my belt sander and it worked so good, so fast, highly recommend it. Thanks for your videos, also. It really helps when I don't know something, or even when I think I know something!
I had some of these to fill today on a job for a customer and I use pre-cut pieces of doweling with different diameters and apply Liquid Nails to the edge of the dowels and gently tap them into the opening. This method might be kind of unconventional, but it does work and then I apply a couple of skim coats over the dowels.
I like your technique to counter sink the edges a little. I’ve always used an old Robertson screwdriver that I hit on the tip. The butt of the handle is rounded so it makes an indentation roughly the size of a dime. If the holes are bigger, especially when screw in wall anchors are removed, I back fill the the holes with wadded up paper towel. FWIW
Personally, I'm definitely a big fan of: bevel; 5-min hot mud; wet sand (if necessary); texture if necessary; prime/paint, all using a heat gun to speed things up . I do handyman work and usually can't justify the time to come back out to do multiple coats on repairs this small
I use 5 minute hot mud. wait about thirty minutes lightly sand. I know the middle still will look wet but you can feather the edge with a sponge and paint it. no need to do any priming hot mud. little spot like this you can feather the edge paint then go take a candy bar break or cheese burger break.
Nice trick. As a painter I usually do the indent first, then the mud. And for your example I wouldn’t add extra mud, I would wait the next day and just do touch ups with Dap pink filler (the small quantity makes it dry faster, then I sand). I’ll try your method next time (indent and mud at same time). Thanks!
I take a utility knife and cut a slight bevel and remove all the loose paper and fuzz around the holes. Especially with screw in anchors, the drywall will be raised around the circumference. Even drilling holes can cause those ridges. If they are not removed this will come back and be a problem when finish sanding and you'll end up with little circles or you have to use much more compound over a larger area to hide them. Also, using a fan greatly speeds up the drying process if you are in a hurry
Excellent demonstration. I have to do that occasionallly, but i just run in a drywall anchor a little deep and throw a single thin layer of mud on top[ of that.
Many of us doing drywall out of necessity are working with finished construction and finished walls. One of the biggest difficulties is getting it to look right because of texturing prior to painting. If you included this it would go a long way in helping us correct damage and do complete repairs. Thanks for the great videos too.
It's great when you know how to do something...but you find a UA-cam video to help with little touches to make it look even better. Great video... Thanks 👍
I recently had to do tge same job and pretty much did the same thing. Good tip about using the tool end. I only pushed in with my finger. Wish I had a fancy sander vac thing. I made a dusty mess everywhere 😮
If you doing it building up above the surface like that to sand later, be sure to use regular mud since it is soft and easy to sand. If you use hot mud, sanding will be far more difficult.
THE DISAPPOINTMENT! of not seeing it painted :) Love your channel and you are the best drywall channel on UA-cam. Thanks for the time and effort you put into these videos.
But using the same paint saved for a year on patches ends up (most often) with a patch a bit different in color. The whole wall usually needs to be painted. Just corner to corner, not the whole room. Even if you go to the same store and buy the same paint by the numbers, it will usually be a bit off, and you'll need to paint corner to corner.
I had to do a double take when this video started because I've been watching your skating videos for a while and didn't know that you had other channels LOL. Thank you for your help with skateboarding and carpentry, my friend.
I am working on the corner walls in our small bathroom. We have bentonite in our soil here, spent $$$$$ on getting the foundation fixed years ago. I did little/incorrect fixes back then (paintable caulk). You make it look so easy but this girl is learning so much from you! Thank you!
I like to take a sharp razor knife and carefully go around each hole first, only cutting on the in-stroke, so no paper sticks up at all. Then I mud it.
Got a notification of this yesterday. As your dedicated subscriber went to watch it and it wouldn't open. Glad to watch it now. You are the best. Thank you always for the wealth of knowledge and warm personality.
I always bevel it out like a little square cut some mesh tape in little squares. Fill with hot mud put my mesh square in. Seems to work good doesn't sink in.
You can break the drywall too much and cause loose paper doing it that way causing imperfections in your paint but if it works for you keep on doin ur thing man lol
I use the handle end of a screwdriver as it has a very large radius and is very smooth and I can create a very subtle dimple around the hole. It fills in beautifully.
@@blitz902 Ummm.....The reason taping knives have a metal end on the handle is exactly for this reason.....lightly tap the hole to invert, then Pre-fill, then small piece of embed tape and 2 coats on top......the first coat right away, the second next day
@@PDRCanada ur right but the end of a knife has less surface area to it then a hammer or end of a screw driver which causes less loose paper in that area but as I stated before to each their own if it works for u then do ur thing
I just use plaster to fix holes like that, just make sure to trowel it smooth and even with the surface around it because there ain't no sanding that stuff, the reason I like it so much is because it doesn't shrink and there's hardly any follow up work, just a thin coat of spackling afterwards and a quick couple of strokes with a sanding block and it's ready to paint.
I just patched a hole in a wall using your California patch. It came out awesome. I used it about a year ago on an old phone outlet too. Love all your videos so much because you know your stuff. "The Cajun Ninja's Dad"
For repairs like that I use a small ballpeen hammer and dimple the hole in then I use hot mud and push that in a little with the ballpeen hammer. When that drys I skim it, wait until it drys, sand, prime and paint.
After you scrape the hole, you take the end of the handle of the mud knife, (assuming you have a real mud knife) & push & turn it in the hole to make a dimple. THEN you apply mud.
I`m an amateur so I use to put some slate moist toilet paper in the hole, press it down and put the wall mud over. There are no bubbles or need to repeat the coating
I would love to see you do a video of doing the same repair where the situation is that the anchor pulled lose and needs to be repaired to hold weight. Thanks.
Glad to hear that! I was refreshing an apt that had way too many holes - of various sizes of course. Wondered about trying a step bit. Now thinking I will try it. thx
Those of us who don't have days to spend on a repair job use fast setting joint compound or plaster of Paris for the initial fill and fast setting joint compound for the final coats.
Ohhh.. you almost had it there. Use setting type joint compound and it can be done in a matter of minutes and ready to prime and paint. I did that crap for 30 years and never would have gotten away with that type of repair taking days to complete. Use compound that sets in five minutes but don't pile it up on the patch, (keep it smooth and level with two coats in sucession) after 5 minutes use a fan to evaporate the water out, sand very lightly, so the customers cleaning people aren't pissed when they dust the piano downstairs, and BAM ! all done. Prime and paint two coats with the fan still on, write up the bill and go fishing.
If the anchors are still in the wall I cut the rim flush with the wall and push the anchor in about an eighth or so and mud over them like you. If the anchor is pulled out I roll up a small piece of paper towel (about an inch or so long and a snug fit on the hole diameter) and insert it into the hole about an eighth under the surface and mud it like you. Easy peazie. Cheers.
I’ve had luck (with small holes like that) by wadding up toilet paper to fill the hole. Seems to give it a little backing when filling. I like the idea of building it up a bit and will try that next time to avoid a second coat.
As a painter & Decorator for over 45years I can’t disagree with any of the ways he showed us to cover up small holes left in plaster board however I would fill the holes twice or three times if necessary because it doesn’t take long to dry with flush filling and is less work sanding down .
Get a cheap $2 wide mouth medicine dropper (syringe), cut off half the tip, and squirt joint compound into the holes to fill them up from the inside out. Works on smaller holes too. Level them out, let them dry. Place top layer onto the shrunken putty that dried. Lightly sand, texture, and paint.
After preparing the holes, I use Plaster of Paris mixed in a small zippered sandwich bag, cut a corner off of the bag and inject the plaster into the holes like a baker’s piping bag, then let set up and sand and paint….
You also "forgot" to tell us what kind of sander tool that was and what grade of sandpaper you used ;) Please let me know. I'm gonna be remodeling a mobile home getting rid of all those seems on the walls. Thx
Thanks for giving us the inside scoop on fixing drywall. Getting the right finish has always been a complete mystery to me. QQ: you used your knife handle to mash down the sides of the hole and to force the mud down into the hole. Is there any other tool you can use to do this? Like the butt of a screwdriver handle, a ball-peen hammer (lightly), or a carriage bolt screw head to make a shallow, symmetrical dent in the wallboard?
The best way is to NOT pull them out in the 1st place. Tap them in to be recessed. I use the squared end of a nut driver. If they are out like that I wad up paper real tight and fill up much of the void to give mud backer. Then hit it with quick set.
I am a first-time homeowner on a DIY budget. I’ve been avoiding a messy bathroom wall repair for over a year now because it felt too far above my skill level. I am learning so much from your videos that I finally feel confident enough to start working on it. Bought my materials and made a plan of action, so here goes! Thank you for sharing these tutorials!
How did it turn out?
@@kennya5165 I think she ended up burning her house down.
@@rolo1369 got a little carried away with the electric sander, eh? Gonna have to remember that for my next camping trip.
@@kennya5165I need advice. I am looking to install blinds but the window frame depth is small. I will have to do outside mounts. Should I install on the window frame / architrave or above the entire window and frame. I do not want to mess up the frame with holes or dry wall with holes especially after a few years they start to get loose.
I put my blinds on the drywall above the trim. Can patch drywall no problem, but holes in your trim sucks
For some reason the owner of the company I work for thinks I know what I'm doing. (???) He asked me to do some drywall repairs in his home while they were vacationing. I got a text from his wife yesterday thanking me for the great work done in their house. I was a good carpenter but I owe 90% of my drywall skills to you Ben. I'm dead serious the content you put out really helps guys like me out.
THANKS man, take care. 👍👍
Ditto. I just replaced a sliding patio door that due to some modifications in fit left damaged drywall. I didn’t hesitate to tell the contractor that I would do the interior finish work. I applied what I learned from Vancouver Carpenter and my drywall work was excellent - very slow, but excellent results.
Thanks Ben
I think as a carpenter you're already most of the way there. Manual skills already in place...compared to cubicle jockeys, lol!
Where can I get this vacuum sander setup??
I loved the fact that you went straight to the point and not asking people to leave a like a subscribe at the beginning of the video like a lot of UA-cam channels. Thank you for that.
I mainly do electrical work for a contractor and create an extreme amount of holes everywhere I go. I didn’t care much because drywall and mud guys fix everything. But then I started getting independent work and it was real costly to hire guys to patch all the holes I make. Your videos helped me a lot, it gave me confidence and with your tips and many hours of practice I now do my own drywall repair and taping in my side jobs. Recently I’ve expanded and started doing other types of work. I just finished a basement and the only thing I sub contracted out was the plumbing.
For a someone who is absolutely clueless about joint compound and adding water, who also has only a few holes to cover up; this is perfect for me. Thank you!!
Over the years of doing renovations, I found that a short piece of 3/8” dowel with the end rounded over into almost a half-dome is my little helper for this sort of thing. I scrape off the loose bits as shown here, then tap the rounded end of the dowel into each hole to create a good deep dimple. Then follow the rest of the steps as shown. This way I know the loose torn bits are nowhere near the surface and can’t mess up the skim coat.
That’s the best repair and what I’ve used for almost 50 years of drywall work
This is pretty much what I have done in the past. As many others have noted the key to a small job like this is wearing the right socks. I have a pair like yours and find they are THE BEST for those smal taping jobs. Thanks for showing me that I have the right style for those small jobs.
🤣 You belong here!!!
Ben, you’ve taught me SO MUCH in the two months I’ve owned my home. Everything looks like hell in this place except the walls, thanks to you
that sanding / vacuum block is amazing.
I want one!
I started using Bondo to fill the big holes. I don't make it flush. I just want the Bondo to act as a backstop for the holes. When it dries, I then go over the holes again with spackle, smothing everything flush. When it dries I sand everything a little and then paint primer over everything before painting with the wall color. What I like about the Bondo is that it dries rock hard and will not move. When I would just fill the holes with mud, you could push the repair in with your finger and it would go right through.
Just after putting a couple of big drill holes in the wall for large handbag hooks to go in, my daughter changed her mind….aggh! So I hopped on UA-cam to find a how-to video to repair & your video popped up with the perfect solution so thank you.
I also love that I’m a Vancouver Canuck living in Sydney Australia, watching a Vancouver carpenter show me my solution. Amazing!
Them broads are always changing there minds.
I can't find your video I watched before I began, so I thought I'd comment here. I repaired a section where a towel rack had been hung at least three times. There were anchor holes everywhere. I cut out 3" diameter circles in the drywall to make sure I'd get all the little holes and installed plywood backup pieces. Then I inserted 3" drywall circles and then mudded everything. I was worried after the first mud coat because I could see the outline of the patch, but by the third sanded coat it looked like a pro had done it. I ain't no pro! I'm a novice. Your videos are super! Thanks for the tips and lessons!
On small projects like this you can use a damp spongue (a kitchen spongue is perfect) to smooth out the mud instead of sandpaper. There's less clean up because it doesn't leave any sanding dust on the wall, baseboard or floor.
I'm very new to this, I worked for a guy doing drywall back in 2016 for a good solid 2 months and he was patient with me and taught me from the ground up. But I needed some extra cash recently and took on a small drywall repair job and I'm finding out that I have to just wing everything. I had to fix some drywall anchor holes in the bathroom, I originally tried scraping it like you but some of that drywall paper was fuzzing up and it was driving me crazy, so, I grabbed my belt sander and it worked so good, so fast, highly recommend it. Thanks for your videos, also. It really helps when I don't know something, or even when I think I know something!
I had some of these to fill today on a job for a customer and I use pre-cut pieces of doweling with different diameters and apply Liquid Nails to the edge of the dowels and gently tap them into the opening. This method might be kind of unconventional, but it does work and then I apply a couple of skim coats over the dowels.
I’ve seen people do lot of mudding work with liquid nails. Well one guy. And it was always good work when he was done it’s a slick trick
I like your technique to counter sink the edges a little. I’ve always used an old Robertson screwdriver that I hit on the tip. The butt of the handle is rounded so it makes an indentation roughly the size of a dime. If the holes are bigger, especially when screw in wall anchors are removed, I back fill the the holes with wadded up paper towel. FWIW
I forgot to like this video. But I can assure you I liked it.
Damn you and your psychology.
Ahhh good one !
@Scaldinghotcoffee: So…ahh…why don’t you just press the ‘like’ button?
@@rayray8687 wooooosh
@@JC-eu8rg: If that was a ‘wooooosh’ moment, I still don’t get it, lol.
Personally, I'm definitely a big fan of: bevel; 5-min hot mud; wet sand (if necessary); texture if necessary; prime/paint, all using a heat gun to speed things up . I do handyman work and usually can't justify the time to come back out to do multiple coats on repairs this small
Heat gun and a fan 👍
@@jayrob7418 what are we doing with the fan?
Bondo is my best friend on quick jobs. Especially when they want paint done ASAP.
@@hasanmatthew5204 I know a few guys that use Bondo on spots that come back.
@@Troy_Built Use 'KIllz" a lacquer paint. then finish paint.
I want to know about that vacuum sanding attachment thing!
That’s the real million dollar question for this video!
Yes! Is that a diy? What gives please share!
Yes! I seriously need this. Will be painting my rooms soon and need to sand.
I use 5 minute hot mud. wait about thirty minutes lightly sand. I know the middle still will look wet but you can feather the edge with a sponge and paint it. no need to do any priming hot mud. little spot like this you can feather the edge paint then go take a candy bar break or cheese burger break.
Nice trick. As a painter I usually do the indent first, then the mud. And for your example I wouldn’t add extra mud, I would wait the next day and just do touch ups with
Dap pink filler (the small quantity makes it dry faster, then I sand). I’ll try your method next time (indent and mud at same time). Thanks!
which do u prefeer
Drydex is great 👍
Best tip for any knew mudder and I can’t stress this enough..
LESS IS MORE.. build the repair up
You know this had to kill him not floating it out 12” in all directions.
Lol !
You got that right.....lol
I take a utility knife and cut a slight bevel and remove all the loose paper and fuzz around the holes. Especially with screw in anchors, the drywall will be raised around the circumference. Even drilling holes can cause those ridges. If they are not removed this will come back and be a problem when finish sanding and you'll end up with little circles or you have to use much more compound over a larger area to hide them. Also, using a fan greatly speeds up the drying process if you are in a hurry
Excellent demonstration. I have to do that occasionallly, but i just run in a drywall anchor a little deep and throw a single thin layer of mud on top[ of that.
What was that sander/vac setup please? Thanks
Your videos have helped me improve my level of drywalling and painting immensely, thank you Ben.
Many of us doing drywall out of necessity are working with finished construction and finished walls. One of the biggest difficulties is getting it to look right because of texturing prior to painting. If you included this it would go a long way in helping us correct damage and do complete repairs. Thanks for the great videos too.
Awsome what grit of sand paper did yu use?
It's great when you know how to do something...but you find a UA-cam video to help with little touches to make it look even better. Great video... Thanks 👍
@0:40 the first thing we need to do is… kick off those shoes and do this work in socks.
Works for me.🤪
I recently had to do tge same job and pretty much did the same thing. Good tip about using the tool end. I only pushed in with my finger. Wish I had a fancy sander vac thing. I made a dusty mess everywhere 😮
Damn, I actually laughed out loud because of that ending.
Me too!
If you doing it building up above the surface like that to sand later, be sure to use regular mud since it is soft and easy to sand. If you use hot mud, sanding will be far more difficult.
THE DISAPPOINTMENT! of not seeing it painted :) Love your channel and you are the best drywall channel on UA-cam. Thanks for the time and effort you put into these videos.
But using the same paint saved for a year on patches ends up (most often) with a patch a bit different in color. The whole wall usually needs to be painted. Just corner to corner, not the whole room. Even if you go to the same store and buy the same paint by the numbers, it will usually be a bit off, and you'll need to paint corner to corner.
best drywall channel - Plus 1.
What a great tip, always wondered what was a good easy way to fix the drywall faster damage
I had to do a double take when this video started because I've been watching your skating videos for a while and didn't know that you had other channels LOL. Thank you for your help with skateboarding and carpentry, my friend.
Thank you for your drywall vids. I am in the middle of major bath redo and had a lot of wall anchors and repairs to do. Your vids are a lot of help.😁👍
I laughed at the end when you said you'd show it painted, then "I forgot". So I liked the video just for that.
Nice that you have smooth walls. Most houses I've seen have textured walls and so repair is a pain in the ***.
I am working on the corner walls in our small bathroom. We have bentonite in our soil here, spent $$$$$ on getting the foundation fixed years ago. I did little/incorrect fixes back then (paintable caulk). You make it look so easy but this girl is learning so much from you! Thank you!
I like to take a sharp razor knife and carefully go around each hole first, only cutting on the in-stroke, so no paper sticks up at all. Then I mud it.
I love watching someone who has mastered their job. Keep up the great work!
not the right way
@@wrj888 what's the right way?
Got a notification of this yesterday. As your dedicated subscriber went to watch it and it wouldn't open. Glad to watch it now. You are the best. Thank you always for the wealth of knowledge and warm personality.
I always bevel it out like a little square cut some mesh tape in little squares. Fill with hot mud put my mesh square in. Seems to work good doesn't sink in.
Doesn’t the mesh give the wall a raised surface look? I’ve always found that but then again I’m a home diy’er and could just have done it wrong.
@@flch95 I embed my little mesh square so it's below the surface.
I usually hammer it flat or use the but end of the screw driver to flatten the surface and then fill it over
You can break the drywall too much and cause loose paper doing it that way causing imperfections in your paint but if it works for you keep on doin ur thing man lol
I use the handle end of a screwdriver as it has a very large radius and is very smooth and I can create a very subtle dimple around the hole. It fills in beautifully.
@@blitz902 Ummm.....The reason taping knives have a metal end on the handle is exactly for this reason.....lightly tap the hole to invert, then Pre-fill, then small piece of embed tape and 2 coats on top......the first coat right away, the second next day
@@PDRCanada ur right but the end of a knife has less surface area to it then a hammer or end of a screw driver which causes less loose paper in that area but as I stated before to each their own if it works for u then do ur thing
I use the round end of a ball peen hammer lightly tapping to indent the holes.
I just use plaster to fix holes like that, just make sure to trowel it smooth and even with the surface around it because there ain't no sanding that stuff, the reason I like it so much is because it doesn't shrink and there's hardly any follow up work, just a thin coat of spackling afterwards and a quick couple of strokes with a sanding block and it's ready to paint.
Fiberglass reinforced auto body filler works for me 👍
Used that in my Dad's 1948 bathroom , which has older "button board" and plaster drywall
I just patched a hole in a wall using your California patch. It came out awesome. I used it about a year ago on an old phone outlet too. Love all your videos so much because you know your stuff. "The Cajun Ninja's Dad"
Love the ending!
Love your videos. You’ve helped me as a professional homeowner
Great tips for a very common problem. I just learned skills I will definitely use. Thanks for sharing!
anyone know what vacuum sander he's using? I'd like a simple one I could pair with a rigid vac :).
Paper tissue + wood glue works very well on drywall holes.
For repairs like that I use a small ballpeen hammer and dimple the hole in then I use hot mud and push that in a little with the ballpeen hammer. When that drys I skim it, wait until it drys, sand, prime and paint.
Great video VC. I did not know about the shrink and will take your advice on grinding the whole. Thanks Brother.
After you scrape the hole, you take the end of the handle of the mud knife, (assuming you have a real mud knife) & push & turn it in the hole to make a dimple. THEN you apply mud.
I just discovered two of these anchor bolt holes, so this was very handy!
What type of mud did you use? Please and thank you.
I like the vacuum cleaner attachment for the sanding block.
Awesome…I love to see pros at work..thank you for sharing this technique!
Interesting, I usually go back and fill a second time after it dries, this simplifies it to one coat so you can keep moving forward. Thanks
I`m an amateur so I use to put some slate moist toilet paper in the hole, press it down and put the wall mud over. There are no bubbles or need to repeat the coating
The vacuum sander is cool. I have filled holes in this manner before, but spackling seems easier.
I would love to see you do a video of doing the same repair where the situation is that the anchor pulled lose and needs to be repaired to hold weight. Thanks.
I avoid wall damage by just not nailing anything into my walls! I use those tape with hooks to hang my paintings on. They are easily removed later.
He's in his socks! Love it! Always the greatest tips. I usually just bang them in. Never thought to mud them first!🖖
I like to use a step drill bit to gently taper the holes, then fill.
That's genius!!!!!
Glad to hear that! I was refreshing an apt that had way too many holes - of various sizes of course. Wondered about trying a step bit. Now thinking I will try it. thx
Those of us who don't have days to spend on a repair job use fast setting joint compound or plaster of Paris for the initial fill and fast setting joint compound for the final coats.
Super helpful! Trying to fix my sons closet by myself, and now I think I can handle it! 😊 Thank you!
Any tips on how to blend your touch paint over filled holes with flat paint??
best let down at the end hahahahaha - love it that you're not too taking it too seriously. It's holes in drywall afterall. haha
I want that sander vacuum!!!
I do, too! Put on Christmas list.
I’m glad I’m not the only one who does repairs around the house with socks and joggers on. :)
Ohhh.. you almost had it there. Use setting type joint compound and it can be done in a matter of minutes and ready to prime and paint. I did that crap for 30 years and never would have gotten away with that type of repair taking days to complete. Use compound that sets in five minutes but don't pile it up on the patch, (keep it smooth and level with two coats in sucession) after 5 minutes use a fan to evaporate the water out, sand very lightly, so the customers cleaning people aren't pissed when they dust the piano downstairs, and BAM ! all done. Prime and paint two coats with the fan still on, write up the bill and go fishing.
Can you tell me how to remove a broken anchor stuck in drywall? I want to minimize wall damage and repair. TY
The trick is matching the paint and wall texture. Even with the same paint it will show up with a slight sheen.
Yup. You have to paint the whole wall after spot priming the patch.
What brand of mud do you use and what grit sandpaper are you using?
If the anchors are still in the wall I cut the rim flush with the wall and push the anchor in about an eighth or so and mud over them like you. If the anchor is pulled out I roll up a small piece of paper towel (about an inch or so long and a snug fit on the hole diameter) and insert it into the hole about an eighth under the surface and mud it like you. Easy peazie. Cheers.
With the right filler (mud) you can wet the repair with a sponge or cloth just before sanding, which speeds things up a lot, just don't go too far.
Nice Job!!! What type of sanding head did you use that had the vacuum head on it?
I’ve had luck (with small holes like that) by wadding up toilet paper to fill the hole. Seems to give it a little backing when filling. I like the idea of building it up a bit and will try that next time to avoid a second coat.
I've done that with all kinda of stuff as backing. I'll use spray foam as my go to if it's handy too
I press fit paper fly ribbon caps into the holes then spackle, works good .
New subscriber here. I need to fix a mistake on my son’s guest bathroom wall. Thanks again for your video.
Great sock-work!! I had the same question as D M 2 months ago: What's the drywall sander he's using? Unfortunately, no one has answered.
Not sure if you are still wondering but it looks to be a Hyde 09170. Cheers
I've used a blow dryer too speed up the drying time. And I've found it works for anything mud related.
As a painter & Decorator for over 45years I can’t disagree with any of the ways he showed us to cover up small holes left in plaster board however I would fill the holes twice or three times if necessary because it doesn’t take long to dry with flush filling and is less work sanding down .
But how to you fix the texture after making those big flat spots?
Very good demonstration, thank you so much for sharing.
Get a cheap $2 wide mouth medicine dropper (syringe), cut off half the tip, and squirt joint compound into the holes to fill them up from the inside out. Works on smaller holes too. Level them out, let them dry. Place top layer onto the shrunken putty that dried. Lightly sand, texture, and paint.
After preparing the holes, I use Plaster of Paris mixed in a small zippered sandwich bag, cut a corner off of the bag and inject the plaster into the holes like a baker’s piping bag, then let set up and sand and paint….
You also "forgot" to tell us what kind of sander tool that was and what grade of sandpaper you used ;) Please let me know. I'm gonna be remodeling a mobile home getting rid of all those seems on the walls. Thx
Great video. As a pinch repair. use my painters knife as my all-in-one drywall patch applicator.
I would squirt some acrylic caulk into the hole first, then follow up with joint compound and then smooth out.
Double extra likes for forgetting to film the painted finish. That was hilarious, and I can relate way more than I should. Hahaha!!
What is the drywall mud product that your using?
If i'm not mistaken i'm pretty sure along with having good tips for fixing holes in the wall this dude also rips at skateboarding.
Thanks for giving us the inside scoop on fixing drywall. Getting the right finish has always been a complete mystery to me. QQ: you used your knife handle to mash down the sides of the hole and to force the mud down into the hole. Is there any other tool you can use to do this? Like the butt of a screwdriver handle, a ball-peen hammer (lightly), or a carriage bolt screw head to make a shallow, symmetrical dent in the wallboard?
The best way is to NOT pull them out in the 1st place. Tap them in to be recessed. I use the squared end of a nut driver. If they are out like that I wad up paper real tight and fill up much of the void to give mud backer. Then hit it with quick set.
Once it’s dried, can the same holes be reused with a drywall anchor and have the same holding power?
absolutely not.
Best way to have holding power there is to put wood behind a patch.